Pick up a chain for a chainsaw on a tire

Table of Contents:

Properties of wear-resistant chains for general and special purposes

The types of chains for household and professional grade intended for working with wood are distinguished by the quality of the material, the duration of the resource and the cost. Designed for work on concrete, the diamond chain, unique in terms of wear resistance, belongs to the category of special rescue equipment.

Wear-resistant carbide chain is one option. The overhaul life of such a product is an order of magnitude higher, but for sharpening it, you need special equipment that allows you to sharpen the cutting links at different angles, respectively, for standard transverse and longitudinal sawing.

The carbide chain is designed for productive sawing of hardwoods and lightweight building blocks. It should be borne in mind that when working on aerated concrete or foam concrete, the resource of the saw headset, even the most prestigious brand, is reduced by 2-3 times.

Professional chain design features

The range offered can be divided into chains with chisel and chipper cutter link configurations. In the first case, the link in the section is similar to the number 7. This profile provides increased productivity of cutting operations of increased complexity.

A significant disadvantage of the chisel “seven” is the complexity of manual sharpening, since even a slight deviation from the given angle, the main advantages of the seven-fold profile are canceled.

The chipper links are crescent-shaped. The increased contact area with the wood being cut puts additional stress on the engine. On the positive side. the design of chipper chains is appreciated for the stability of operation with a high level of contamination and less stringent requirements for the accuracy of finishing the cutting edges.

How to choose the best chainsaw chain

Even with the most careful operation of the chainsaw, the owner sooner or later is faced with the need to replace the saw chain. The assortment is presented in several types, differing in pitch, configuration of cutting links and other indicators. The best chainsaw chain is the model recommended by the instructions for use.

The guide bar and the chain are interchangeable equipment, so owners of budget chainsaws are given the opportunity to choose a more wear-resistant and durable saw set.

pick, chain, chainsaw, tire

The desire to increase the performance of the saw by installing a longer headset can only be realized if the engine has a sufficient reserve of power and torque.

It is best to choose a chain for a chainsaw that is optimal in cost and performance after consulting an experienced specialist. The wrong choice of component parts of the headset can reduce the performance of the chainsaw or initiate its early failure.

Pro tips for the operation and maintenance of saw chains

A significant part of the operated headsets do not fully develop the assigned resource.

The main reasons for forced wear are:

  • low efficiency of the lubrication system;
  • a high degree of wear on the drive sprocket;
  • excessive tension on the saw chain;
  • use of substandard and surrogate chain oils.

Experts advise using a set of several chains, changing them as needed. This option can take advantage of the more productive mechanized sharpening.

Worn and damaged chains should be discarded promptly. Even in the presence of an emergency stop brake and a safety device, the operation of worn-out parts is characterized by an increased risk of injury.

Criterias of choice

The quality of budget and branded chains differs significantly. Many owners of cheap household chainsaws prefer to operate their equipment with more advanced sawing headsets from the leading brands Stihl, Husqvarna and Oregon. An unofficial rating recorded an increase in consumer demand for similar products of the Hammer and PowerSharp brands.

The standard length of the bar for a household saw is 2-2.5 HP. is 40-45 cm.The size of high-performance analogs of a professional class reaches 70 cm.

The higher price level of branded bars and chains is compensated by the high quality of complex sawing operations, increased resource, stability of performance throughout the entire period of service specified by the manufacturer.

Models of chains for cross and longitudinal sawing

The main range of saw chains with a 25-35 ° angle sharpening of the cutting links is designed for standard cross-cutting of wood. Models for longitudinal sawing on the domestic market are present in a minimum quantity.

If necessary, the problem of shortage is simply solved by changing the sharpening angle of standard chains to 5-15 °. The tire in this version is operated without changing the design.

All information provided is valid for Chinese chainsaws and their accessories. Most of the Chinese chainsaw range are more or less successful copies of leading European developers, so all standards are almost identical.

Shank parameters

An equally important condition for choosing the right saw chain is the thickness of its shank, which varies from 1.1 to 2 mm. In the inch standard, shanks are presented in sizes 0.043 / 0.04 / 0.05 / 0.058 / 0.063 and 0.08 inches, respectively.

Chains with a minimum thickness are used in lightweight low-cube models of a budget level. In household and semi-professional chainsaws, analogues resistant to constant and variable loads, with a thickness of 1.3 to 1.6 mm, are more in demand. Reinforced chains with 2 mm shanks, professional chainsaw equipment is completed.

How to choose a chain for a saw with a gasoline engine step by step

Chain pitch is measured in inches. It is indicated on the product and affects the quality of the cut. The higher the saw power, the more you adjust the step. For non-professional instruments up to 2500W, standard 0.325 ” pitch.

The chain pitch must match the pitch on the drive sprocket of the engine and tire. If you change it together with the tire, replace the engine sprocket with a collapsible one and install the drive ring on it with the desired pitch.

How to choose a chain for a chainsaw in the shape of a cutting tooth

The choice of chain for a chainsaw should take into account the shape of the cutting tooth. When viewed along the tooth, the cutting edges form a similarity to the number 7. The rounded tooth is called Chipper, with an acute angle. Chisel.

Chisel teeth are characterized by high productivity and cutting speed because their configuration reduces the contact area of ​​the tooth with the wood during operation. A serious drawback of the “chisel” tooth is that it quickly becomes blunt on wood contaminated with grains of sand. Resharpening such a tooth requires very precise adherence to all standard angles and parameters.

The Chipper tines have a larger cutting area with the wood and therefore lower cutting speed. But this drawback compensates for the undemanding quality of regrinding. The rounded corner of the “chipper” will tolerate sharpening errors more easily and shows itself well in working with contaminated wood.

How to choose a chain for a chainsaw according to the thickness of the shank

The shank is the part of the chain link that fits into the guide bar. Its thickness must strictly correspond to the groove of the tire so that the chain moves as smoothly as possible, the cut is smooth and there is no excessive tire wear.

How to choose a chain for a chainsaw: types, sizes, nuances

How to choose a chain for a chainsaw in length

Its total length is determined by the number of links that make it up (it is equal to the number of shanks). The chain for one bar may not fit on a bar of the same length on another saw. Therefore, see what length the manufacturer recommends in the instructions for the saw.

Watch the video review of Makita chainsaws

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Sawing depth and chain height

The next group of parameters needed to select a chain is the profile height. It is one of the key determinants of tool performance. The deeper the tooth plunges into the material, the faster (if there is sufficient power on the shaft) the cut will be made. With a low profile height, productivity decreases, but the accuracy of the cut and the quality of its surface increase, since the tooth is less distorted.

Two profile standard sizes are widely used:

  • low at 0.63 mm (or 0.025 in);
  • high at 0.76 mm (0.03 in).

Low-profile chains are used in almost all household models. In professional, you can select and use both high and low profiles, depending on the type of work. It is necessary to know the height of the profile when sharpening the tool yourself, in order not to cut down the excess in height.

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Using a high profile on your chainsaws will increase productivity. At the same time, the vibration and noise generated by the chainsaw will increase. Increased lateral pressure increases tire wear.

High vibration also leads to accelerated wear on the chainsaw. In addition, it leads to quick fatigue of the worker and excludes operation during a full shift.

Therefore, engineers of leading chainsaw manufacturing companies, in order to select the optimal combination of parameters, simultaneously reduce the step with an increase in the profile height. Conversely, as the stride increases, a lower profile must be used. Thus, maintaining a balance between these indicators, you can choose their combination that provides an acceptable level of vibration.

In practice, for each type and condition of wood, you can choose a chain that provides maximum performance:

  • high profile and small step;
  • low profile and big stride.

Still, they do not refuse a combination of a high profile and a large step, it is used where high performance is needed and it is possible to apply complex systems of vibration isolation and active vibration damping. As a rule, these are large mechanized harvesting complexes in which the operator is in a vibration-insulated cab. There it is well protected from vibration and noise. In such units, profile heights can be up to 0.9 inches.

The cutting thickness of the chain saw is determined by the width of the chain. With a 1.1 mm tire, a neat, thin cut is obtained, a 2.6 mm headset cuts quickly, while more wood goes into sawdust.

How to find out

To determine the pitch of the chain used on your chainsaw, usually use one of the following methods:

  • Remove the tire and read the markings on the shank. In addition to the desired parameter, there it is mandatory to indicate the length of the headset, the width of the groove between the cheeks, as well as the sprocket module.
  • If there is a package left, you can look at it. Leading manufacturers print on it not only the pitch, but also the type of tooth, width, file number for sharpening.
  • Measure the distance between two adjacent link parts with a vernier caliper. These can be the bases of the teeth, their tails, the centers of the rollers. For videos, you need to take THREE adjacent ones.

The performance of the tool directly depends on the step, therefore, it is larger for professional models. It is strongly not recommended to adapt tires with a small pitch to powerful chainsaws. Underloading the engine will also lead to accelerated wear of its parts and a reduction in the life of a high-quality, productive chainsaw.

If you plan to use a tool for curly carving on wood or ice, then you need, on the contrary, to choose a chain with a minimum step. Closely spaced teeth provide excellent cutting accuracy and less vibration.

For each class of operations, it is better to choose a separate chainsaw that best matches it in terms of characteristics.

When choosing grooves and sawing out internal cuts, you have to work with the very end of the bar. In this case, the probability of rebound (or rebound) of the saw is high. This is another reason for the purchase of two saws: a powerful high-performance saw for mass operations and cutting thick logs or beams, and a small model with a short headset and a small pitch for finishing curved cuts, grooves and other thin parts.

How does the need for sharpening a chain appear?

If the working teeth have lost their sharpness or are unevenly worn in height. working with such a chainsaw turns from pleasure into torment.

Characteristic signs of the need for chain sharpening are:
  • decreased productivity;
  • increased noise and vibration when cutting;
  • frequent kickbacks when driving the saw into an existing cut;
  • formation of fine shavings compared to ordinary shavings;
  • the smell of a smoldering tree.

When these signs appear, stop work and sharpen the chain. This can be done in two ways.

The manual method of sharpening does not require the complete removal of the chain from the bar. it is enough to loosen it. A special mandrel is installed on the sharpened link, which sets the sharpening angles of the working surfaces of the teeth. Using a round and flat file moving along the guides, sharpen the tooth. Next, the mandrel is loosened and rearranged to the next link, repeating the operation.

Attention: sharpening can only be carried out with a suspended engine. If a saw with an electric drive is used, it must be unplugged from the mains.

The accuracy of sharpening in this way strongly depends on the qualifications and accumulated experience of the employee. Its advantage lies in the low cost of the sharpening set and the possibility of dressing the teeth right at the workplace.

The second method requires expensive equipment, comparable in cost to the chainsaw itself. Such a machine will pay off if you have to sharpen a large number of chains every day. The undoubted advantages of the method are

  • high productivity of mechanized or automated installations;
  • stability of sharpening angles from link to link;
  • the ability to set the sharpening height according to the most sharpened tooth.

The latter feature allows you to automatically align the height of the teeth. This significantly increases the service life of the chain as the load is evenly distributed among all the links.

Another way to save both time and money is to send the chain to a service center for sharpening. It is convenient if there is a spare chain.

Pro tips for the operation and maintenance of saw chains

Experienced specialists have formulated several factors that prevent saw chains from fully working out their design life and leading to their increased wear:

  • insufficient lubrication causes increased friction and overheating of parts;
  • deterioration of the drive gear;
  • too much chain tension;
  • use of low-quality lubricants not recommended by the manufacturer.

It is recommended that you install several replacement chains for each saw. This allows you not to interrupt the cut while sharpening a blunt tool in the workshop. It also becomes possible to select the most suitable chain for different cutting conditions.

Properties of wear-resistant chains for general and special purposes

For productive work, you need to choose the right purpose of the tool.

For cutting soft woods, a regular tool steel chain is sufficient. If you have to cut hard wood or foam concrete, it is better to choose a special tool. For cutting especially strong materials, a tool with teeth made of special high-alloy alloys is used. Foam concrete has strong abrasive properties leading to accelerated wear of cutting surfaces. The resource of chains of even the most famous manufacturers, despite the timely sharpening, is reduced by several times. It is also important to make sure that the performance of the chainsaw is sufficient to work with such a chain.

When dismantling debris in areas of natural disasters or man-made disasters, emergency rescue units use links with a coating of artificial diamonds. They are capable of sawing reinforced concrete and bricks. Such chains are very expensive, their resource is small, but the cost of a human life is undoubtedly much higher. The working life of the headset is proportionally reduced.

Types of materials

Conventional chains are made from chromium and nickel alloyed tool steel. Such models do well with soft woods.

When working in hard wood, wet or frozen timber, it is best to choose chains with carbide cutting surfaces. They are also recommended for work on foam concrete and aerated concrete. They are significantly more expensive than conventional ones; for their dressing and sharpening, specialized equipment with corundum grinding discs is required. It will not be possible to sharpen such a chain manually.

Criterias of choice

How to choose the right chain for a chainsaw? First of all, it makes sense to pay attention to the manufacturer. Even an inexpensive, domestic-grade chainsaw is capable of showing wonders of longevity and productivity with quality chains from world leaders in the industry. Such a tool will cost several times more than nameless crafts, but it will also last so much that it will pay off many times over during this time.

The main parameters of the chain are length, width, link pitch. The next parameter is the length of the bus. Most household models are equipped with tires of 35-45 cm. To work with such a length, a motor power of 2-2.5 liters is enough. from.

Professional models up to 12 hp. with., capable of working with headsets up to 1 meter long.

The chain pitch should be selected based on the planned operations, their volume, the requirements for the productivity of the tool, as well as the accuracy of the cut. In this case, it is imperative to take into account the power of the engine so as not to overload it, causing increased wear.

Other parameters of the tool, such as the type of cutting tooth, its elevation, sharpening angles and cutting depth, should not be overlooked as well. The sharpness of the restraining tooth affects the quality and speed of the cut. A sharper tooth allows you to cut faster, but reduces the accuracy of the cut.

Models of chains for cross and longitudinal sawing

Most models are available for conventional cross-cutting of wood. The direction of the cut is determined by the angle of sharpening of the cutting surface of the tooth. From the factory, the cross chains come out with an angle of 25-25 °. Such teeth will be best cut across the fibers, but they can also perform several longitudinal cuts, for example, when forming an angular attachment of crowns or sawing grooves for rafters.

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Self-sharpening principle

So, the sharpening process is very simple and easy. The unit has a red handle that must be pulled towards you for five seconds. This handle can be found between the guard and the handle.

This action will reverse the saw. As it moves, the chain will pass through a special mechanism where the whetstone is fixed. As a result, the sharpening process takes place. The whole job can take about three seconds.

Drive link thickness

This part of the chain is under heavy strain. As for the standards, the following stands out here: 1.1 and 1.3 mm. Optimum thickness for gentle loads. This thickness is most commonly found in semi-professional and domestic installations;

1.5 mm. Most common thickness. Mostly used at a professional level;

1.6 mm. It is used to carry out works of high complexity. It is based on metal of special grades.

Cutting tooth geometry

There are 2 types of profile:

  • Chipper. In another way it is known as “sickle”, as it looks like it. Has high performance. In the process of work, it does not need to strictly observe the sharpening angle. over, such a profile is much easier to sharpen. There is also a minus of such a profile. the occurrence of high loads and a decrease in cutting parameters.
  • Chisel. Also known as the figure eight. The disadvantage of this profile is that chisel links are difficult to sharpen. If you suddenly get dirt on the cutting element, then difficulties arise.

Sharpening type

The method and type of sharpening depends on the type of proposed work. In most cases, these tools are used for cross cuts. Chainsaws are used less often for ripping.

As a consequence, the position of the links will depend on the resistance of the wood. Thus, a cutting angle of 5 to 15 ° is selected for rip sawing. Cutting angle from 25 to 35 ° for transverse.

Chain marking

Before deciding which chain to choose for a chainsaw, you need to pay attention to its marking. The main parameter is the step. Pitch refers to the distance from adjacent teeth on the chain.

An important fact is that a large number of professional and semi-professional chainsaws are capable of working on different types of chains at once. Therefore, when choosing this tool, give preference to just such chainsaws. As a result, it will be easier for you to select the required cutting element.

Here are some examples of how the tooth pitch is chosen in relation to the power of the chainsaw:

  • Step 0.325. Ideal for devices up to 3.5 l / s. This type of chain is ideal for cutting small knots and the like.
  • Step 0.375. Optimal for units with a capacity of 4 l / s. This step is effective for working with thin wood. Often used in semi-professional installations.
  • Step 0.404. It is used for powerful units, more than 5 l / s.

It is important to understand the truth. the productivity of a chain depends on its step. The smaller the step, the lower the productivity and vice versa. Plus, with an increase in the pitch of the teeth, it is necessary to apply more labor during work, since the teeth will bite into the wood more and pull it out.

PowerSharp. what is it

This is a known system that allows you to sharpen without removing the cutting element from the chainsaw bar. It includes four important elements:

  • Chain.
  • Abrasive bar.
  • Saw bar.
  • Sharpening device.

Features of choosing a chain for a chainsaw: specialist recommendations

  • Chain design feature
  • Chain marking
  • Important parameters
  • Drive link thickness
  • Cutting depth
  • Cutting tooth geometry
  • Sharpening type
  • Following the links
  • Self-sharpening chain
  • PowerSharp. what is it
  • Self-sharpening principle
  • Stihl chainsaw chain

The presence of a chainsaw on the farm simplifies and speeds up a large number of repair and construction processes.

The chainsaw chain is an essential element of this tool. And given that it is she who often needs to be replaced or sharpened, it is important to know how to choose a chain for a chainsaw.

Cutting depth

The high profile height allows for increased cutting speed and immersion depth in the material. All household models are equipped with a low cut profile.

Semi-professional chainsaws combine several types of chains at once. So, if the chain has a large pitch, then a low profile is mounted. If the step is 0.325, then in this case it is high. This increases the cutting speed.

Thickness

Chain thickness is the thickness of the drive link (can be measured with a vernier caliper). This dimension must always match the groove thickness of the guide rail.

In total, for electric and gasoline saws, as well as harvesters, there are 6 sizes that determine the thickness of the drive link:

  • 1.1 mm (0.043 “);
  • 1.3 mm (0.05 “);
  • 1.5 mm (0.058 “);
  • 1.6 mm (0.063 “);
  • 2.0 mm (0.08 “);
  • 3.1 mm (0.122 “).

The Redneck Tire / Wheel Winch

The third main parameter when choosing a chain: Chain length (Number of drive links).

The chain length is determined by counting the number of drive (inner) chain links. Important:

  • the cutting links do not determine the length of the chain (do not count them).
  • the length of the guide bar does not determine the exact length of the chain (for example, on a saw with a 16 “(40 cm) bar, a chain length of 55, or 56, or 57 links can be installed, depending on the chain tensioning mechanism of the particular saw model).
  • a chain with a length of about 55-57 links will not suit you, only a certain size recommended by the saw manufacturer will do.

Pick up a chain for a chainsaw on a tire

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If you want to purchase a saw chain, or a guide bar for an electric or chainsaw, but do not know which saw headset will fit your saw model, fill out the form with the parameters you know. Our technician will select consumables for your saw and contact you.

Chain pitch

It is customary to designate the chain pitch in inches, calculate it as follows: measure the distance between the nearest drive links of the chain, or the distance between the three nearest rivets of the chain (from the center of the rivet), divide by 2 and convert to inches (1 inch = 25.4 mm).

The chain pitch must always match the pitch of the saw sprocket and the driven bar sprocket.

  • Chain with a pitch of 0.25 “aka 1/4”. The distance between three rivets (leading links) 12.7 mm ÷ 2 = 6.35 mm is converted into inches (÷ 25.4) in inches it is 0.25 “(more often denoted as 1/4”).
  • Chain with a pitch of 0.325 “. The distance between three rivets (driving links) 16.5 mm ÷ 2 = 8.25 mm is converted into inches (÷ 25.4) in inches is 0.325”.
  • Chain with a pitch of 0.375 “aka 3/8”. The distance between the three rivets 19 mm ÷ 2 = 9.5 mm is converted into inches (÷ 25.4) in inches this is 0.375 “(usually denoted as 3/8” so as not to be confused with 0.325 “).
  • Chain with a pitch of 0.404 “. The distance between three rivets 20.5 mm ÷ 2 = 10.25 mm is converted into inches (÷ 25.4) in inches is 0.404”.
  • Chain with a pitch of 3/4 “. The distance between three rivets 38.1 mm ÷ 2 = 19.05 mm is converted into inches (÷ 25.4) in inches this is 0.75” (usually denoted as 3/4 “).

To choose a chain for a chainsaw, you need to know three parameters:

  • Chain pitch;
  • Chain thickness (drive link thickness);
  • Chain length (number of drive links).

Knowing these three parameters, you can easily choose a chain for your saw, pole saw or harvester head.

How long is the tire on my chainsaw?

The cutting length of the bar differs from its total length. The length of the bar is considered to be the length of the cut (working part). this is the distance from the front of the saw to the rounded tip of the nose of the bar. This dimension is rounded to the nearest inch or centimeter. An inch is indicated as “equals 2.54 cm.

For example, the length of the cutting part of a bar for a Stihl MS180 chainsaw is 40 cm. 40 cm ÷ 2.54 = 15.7 inches. Rounding to 16 “(inches).

For Stihl MS180 chainsaw fits 16 inch (40 cm) tire Oregon article 160SDEA074.

Causes of the problem

A chainsaw is a hand-held tool that is used for longitudinal and cross-cutting of wood. The cutting element of the saw is equipped with teeth with a cutting edge, they are sharpened in a special order. Wood is a relatively soft material, despite this, with intensive use of the chain, the teeth undergo natural dullness, small defects and chips appear on them.

These defects lead to a decrease in the efficiency (efficiency) of sawing, a significant weight is felt, as well as a delay in the process. Do-it-yourself chainsaw editing improves performance. This standard procedure can be performed using various tools.

Other options

The saw chain can also be sharpened with other tools at hand. Acting correctly and consistently, you can achieve good results even without a machine. The main difficulty here is that it is almost impossible to fix the working area, as well as to deduce the desired angle when working with a power tool on weight.

How to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file

On the processed area, you need to fix templates and patterns. They will give the right direction to the file, making the process easier. When all the preparatory work has been done, you can proceed directly to sharpening the chain.

According to the rules, it is necessary to sharpen the teeth in one direction, then in the other. Work begins with light clicks with a file in the direction away from you, the pressure gradually increases. Reverse file movement. without pressing. The circular tool must be continuously rotated along its axis. The chain is sharpened by movements from the inside of the tooth to the outside. In this case, the file should be located parallel to a special mark on the chain, which is applied by the manufacturer to indicate the standard sharpening angle.

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The sharpened tooth should be located approximately in the middle of the tire, this is necessary for ease of work. In the process of processing, you need to move the chain along the tire, not forgetting to set the brake to the working position every time.

The angle of inclination of the tool should be right, and the angle of sharpening of the chain of the chainsaw horizontally should be sharp, while its changes are allowed in the range from 10º to 30º. The smallest tooth in the row should be taken as a basis. Turn the tire over and do the same job for the teeth that go in the opposite direction. The disadvantage of this sharpening method is the high time consumption.

Sharpening the chain with a file

You can insert a round file with a broken handle into the chuck of an electric drill or screwdriver. You will get a very convenient mechanized sharpening device.

Sharpening the chain with a drill and file

When to do the work?

With intensive use of the chainsaw, sharpening is carried out quite often, often several times in one day.

Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the meeting of the chain with the ground speeds up the process significantly. Therefore, chainsaws must be used in such a way as to exclude the possibility of contact between the chain and the ground.

After several contacts, the chips will be very fine, and the chain will go deep into the material slightly.When considering this issue, it can be noted: the more often you have to sharpen the chainsaw chain, the less metal layer is removed. Also, if you sharpen often, then the service life of the cutting element of the chainsaw will increase significantly. The main condition can be called the correct execution of the work, if you do it yourself. The procedure can be performed correctly only if there is a special machine. Significant feed force can be called a sign that the cutting element of a hand-held chainsaw has become dull. Correct sharpening of the chains determines a significant decrease in the feed force indicator, that is, the chainsaws enter easily with a slight pressure. Another sign of the need for sharpening chains can be called the receipt of very small chips. Sharpening the chainsaw when these signs appear is mandatory. Sharpening of chains is carried out in order to reduce a lot of stress in the body, to reduce the indicator of cyclic load, fuel consumption. Also, if you do not sharpen the teeth of the chains in time, there is a possibility of increased wear of all nodes, as a result of which there is a reduction in the service life of the manual chainsaw.

angle grinder (angle grinder)

Despite the fact that this method is often mentioned as an alternative to machine sharpening of the chain, it is difficult to recommend it for use. Even experienced craftsmen do not cope with tasks perfectly. What can we say about beginners. Difficulty with fixing a certain sharpening angle requires the use of accessories.

Difficulties in using an angle grinder also include a high risk of chain breakage.

Any careless movement of the angle grinder’s cutting element can damage the swivel joint. In this case, the detached section of the chain will fly off arbitrarily, increasing the likelihood of injury for the master doing the work.

The sharpening process consists of bringing the chain link to the saw blade. The contact duration is best done the same as on the machine. This will reduce the risk of metal overheating. It is better to leave the chain on the bar, as with manual sharpening. Otherwise, the procedure will be as follows.

A disc is mounted on the angle grinder. It is better to choose a cut-off wheel for metal work with a thickness of up to 2 mm.
A buffer is installed between the circuit and the bus. You can take a piece of wood chips or other handy material.
Sharpening in progress

It is important to measure the desired angle in advance.
Chain tightening. It will be needed after sharpening in any way.

Sharpening chainsaw teeth using an angle grinder has obvious advantages. This is the speed of work, no additional costs if the tool is already in stock. The disadvantage is also quite obvious. the risks are too high, you must carefully observe safety precautions when working with an angle grinder.

Hand-operated machines

There are devices designed for sharpening, but without an electric drive. These are manual saw chain straighteners. A regular file is used as a sharpening tool. The machine is attached directly to the rail. Special stop that holds the sharpened tooth. The sharpening angle can be adjusted.

The photo shows a stationary machine, in which the grinding disk rotates with a handle through a gearbox. The saw chain itself is clamped in a machine vice. The machine has a base that can be screwed to the table.

Manual Chain Saw Sharpening Machine

How to sharpen by hand?

A gasoline or chain saw is at the disposal of almost every owner of a personal plot. With the help of this tool, the territory is cleared, firewood is collected, and seasonal trees are trimmed. Not surprisingly, the teeth of powerful saws become dull, sometimes in seconds. In this case, sharpening the chainsaw chain or its electric analogue with your own hands can be a good alternative to completely replacing this element or sending it to the workshop. It will not be easy to achieve optimal pungency at home, but such a measure will be the best solution if time is short.

The most unreasonable solution in the event of a dull saw is to continue working. This approach will lead to the fact that the chain will finally fail, and fuel consumption will increase. The quality of the cut will also suffer greatly. In this case, the most rational solution would be self-sharpening of the teeth, which allows you to continue working without unnecessary difficulties.

The manual method is suitable if the teeth are not too worn out. In this case, it is quite possible to process them with a file, returning the sharpness

It is important to understand that the factory level cannot be reached in this case. The file will simply correct the teeth, but will not help to restore their shape with significant wear

For work, you will have to prepare a flat and round file. you can purchase a special set focused specifically on sharpening the saw.

The diameter of the main working tool must also be selected correctly. A 4mm round file will work with a 1/4-inch chain. This is the most common option.

The order of work will be as follows.

Cleaning the chain. When removing contamination, a visual assessment of the condition of the teeth is also necessary. This will help identify defective areas, broken or bent parts.

Definition of the standard. The entire chain will be sharpened along this tooth. It is better to take the most damaged or defective version as a basis.

Preparation of the working field. Place the tool on a hard, flat surface, fix it. After that, the chain is tensioned, its brake is activated.

Beginning of work. The round file is located a quarter above the plane of the tooth (calculated from the diameter of the file itself), horizontally

It is important that it is perpendicular to the tire, observing the selected sharpening angle (10 or 30 degrees). After that, you can start moving towards the cutting edge from the side, trying to evenly distribute the forces

The file must be slightly rotated during work.

Sharpening of subsequent teeth. In order to achieve a uniform height, it is necessary to make the same number of movements for each element. This will ensure that too much metal is not removed. Templates or guides can help make things easier.

Sharpening the depth gauge. A flat file is used here in combination with a special stop template.

In order to achieve uniform sewing, the beginner may need additional controls. It is enough just to paint the cutting edges, and then check the quality of the work by performing 2-3 movements. The steps for sharpening the saw will have to be repeated at each of its teeth. As soon as the entire chain has been processed, you can carry out a visual inspection, as well as use measuring instruments to compare the height of the elements.

You can simplify the sharpening process with a file by fixing it in a special holder. In this case, you can adjust the position of the tool so that it will machine both edges of the tooth in 1 pass. This is achieved by changing the direction of the file.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain correctly on a machine

Sharpening the chain on the machine is much faster and more accurate than with your hands. There are many different electric sharpeners on the market. Household units are compact, operate on a 220 V network. Abrasive wheels are easily replaced on them, they can be easily rebuilt to different chain parameters: tooth pitch, upper edge thickness, sharpening angle. All machined cutting edges are the same. The process is going fast.