Quick-clamping nut for the angle grinder with their own hands
#best at home. How to make a chuck on the angle grinder without a turner
The use of petal bits is very convenient if you need to grind a complex-shaped surface. Such attachments have two main types: disc and circle. Discs are used for the angle grinder and are attached to it in a standard way. And the circles are attachments on the drill with a pin for fixation. Both of these options are very much in demand in various works, such nozzles are durable and work until complete abrasion. But the work of such a nozzle on the drill is not very convenient because of the position of the blades, you have to hold the tool sideways, which interferes with the review. With an angle grinder everything is much more convenient. But it is impossible to attach a wheel to an angle grinder because there is no corresponding chuck. Chucks are on sale, but to pick them up to the angle grinder is not easy, suitable instances are extremely rare to find. It is possible to order the chuck fitting the turner, but here’s the author of YouTube channel StoDel_56 on his own experience demonstrated how you can do with their own efforts in the redesign of the chuck. You might also be interested in this experience.
When selecting a disc for your angle grinder, make sure that the outside diameter of the tool does not exceed the maximum allowable diameter for your angle grinder. For example, if the angle grinder is designed to use a wheel with a maximum diameter of 125 mm, it can not be installed on a wheel 230 mm. And there are several explanations for this:
- will exceed the linear velocity of the cutting edge, which is fraught with the destruction of the abrasive wheel and causing injury to the user;
- a small angle grinder does not have enough power to work with large tools;
- I didn’t want to buy a tool that exceeded the allowable dimensions, because it was necessary to remove the protective hood, and that is a violation of safety rules.
angle grinder discs are available in the following standard sizes: 115, 125, 150, 180 and 230 mm. In modern lathes, the seating diameter (diameter of the shaft on which the tool is mounted) is practically the same and equals 22.2 mm. If you “stash” angle grinder obsolete model, you need to use adapters. rings of different diameters.
All abrasive discs of any size have a special marking, from which you can learn the following information: disc diameter and thickness, seating diameter, maximum rotation speed, and for what materials is it designed.
Pluses and minuses of quick clamping nuts
The quick-clamping nuts for grinders have the following advantages:
- Only well-known companies are engaged in production. the number of fakes is minimal.
- Mounting is performed until the full fixation of the wheel with a small torque.
- After the work is done, the nut can be easily taken off with a wrench or hands, with almost no effort.
In addition to the high cost of “jamming” the wheel in the process of work to remove the nut requires considerable effort. In neglected cases, the device can fail.
Advanced manufacturers are already working on the elimination of the problem. The optimal solution is considered to be the use of a special thrust bearing, which prevents spontaneous clogging of the nut.
Quick-clamping nut for angle grinder, analog of the AEG FIXTEC
A quick-clamp nut, but of a different design, has already been reviewed recently. Now consider the cheapest, both on Ali, and offline instance. The nut from the last review, and basically its price did not inspire me at all, so I was not going to buy one, I did not even consider other options. But recently, at a flea market I found a rack for an angle grinder for ridiculous money. I wanted a stand for a long time, but I did not want to buy a flimsy-looking construction without a chance to see it in action. Twice the store price won over common sense and a turd stand was bought. In general, the rack is terrible in everything, starting with the material, the lack of handwork and backlashes, and ending with ill-conceived ergonomics. But now I know what and how to remake, so it would work properly. It turned out here that it is very uncomfortable to change disks on an angle grinder installed in a rack! The next weekend, at the same flea market, in a mountain of metal was noticed a nut Metabo M-Quick, new and for 1 dollar! It was visually clear that the clamping plate blades bent inside the threads in no way contribute to screwing the metabolic nut on the simple angle grinder, but curiosity won. Further was the study of materials and the meaning of life which led to the realization that the paddles should be simply sawn off or broken off. Both, the case is not difficult. But “simplicity is worse than theft!”And to spoil a good thing I’ll always have time. I did not consider the slotting option on the angle grinder shaft as malicious. Well, since I got into this subject already thoroughly, then by comparing all possible (and they are already a couple-triple) kinds, my choice has fallen on AEG FIXTEC. On the one hand. the nard praises, on the other. the price can be found in the range of 5 bucks, both at Ali, and the local hawkers, but shipping paid. Ordered 18.07.21, got it on 31.07.21, MistExpress. Almost a record. The seller has a coupon for 1 buck. Packed in a cardboard box with a clear window. The nut itself is loose in the box. When I received the package I felt the size of the box in the package and thought they sent me the wrong item I shook the box and listened to the nut rattle and realized that it is exactly what I need. It became as native on the angle grinder. Everything is as in the video reviews. A bit on the size in sequence: AEG FIXTEC, Metabo M-Quick, simple nut. The only thing that made me tense a bit. In this video, 1:30 shows that the lower clamping plate is easily rotated relative to the upper. My Chinese counterpart didn’t spin anything. Not only that, the nut is not collapsible. Everything is held together by crimping. The problem was solved simply by clamping the nut in a vice and a little effort. Maybe you overdid it during pressing. In general, the mobility appeared. I will not say how much worse the Chinese nut is worse than the brand-name AEG FIXTEC and how much AEG FIXTEC for 5 bucks is brand-name ( maklta.com.The bottom clamping plate is easy to turn relative to the top clamping plate at 1:1:1 ), but several cuts of half an inch pipe did not have any effect on it. My 125-150 circles have never jammed or jammed as it is. I cut iron and cast iron pipes, grind brick and concrete. Looks like this seller has the lowest price on Ali with the coupon. Good luck everyone P.S. The question to those who used the Metabo M-Quick. If you break off the flappers in the nut, how will this affect its work??
What is the thread on the angle grinder?
Angle grinder (angle grinder) has become an integral part of both home workshops and large enterprises. It’s no surprise. High performance, broad functionality, high number of revolutions on the spindle and relatively low weight have made the angle grinder a leader in processing metal and other materials.
But progress does not stand still. New devices to expand the capabilities of the device constantly appear on the market. One of these adapters allows you to install a clamping chuck on an angle grinder. What to get out of this and how to safely use such a tool, it is proposed to consider in more detail in the context of this article.
- Device adapter
- Installing a chuck on an angle grinder
- What you need to know about the angle grinder to use it in conjunction with a chuck
- Areas of application of the angle grinder
- Safety instructions
The actual adapter itself is not especially difficult to install. As a rule, it is turned from a hexagon for easy fixation with a wrench during installation and especially during removal. One side has an M14 female thread.
It is designed for screwing on the male thread of the angle grinder spindle. The other end has been counter-rotated under the standardized M12 male thread, which corresponds to the thread of the chuck.
Drilled a hole at the end and cut the left thread for the bolt for additional attachment.
Note! The M12 chuck thread standard, although the most common, is far from the only. When selecting an adapter pay attention to the marking of the selected chuck, at least you can come across a couple of other standard thread types: M12×1.25 and 1/2 to 20 UNF.
There are also cone adapter drill. angle grinder for the appropriate chucks with cone fixation.
Installing the chuck on the angle grinder
To install the chuck on the angle grinder, do the following steps:
- Screw the adapter onto the “bare” spindle of the angle grinder
- Screw the chuck onto the other end of the adapter
- After loosening the jaws of the drill clamp, screw in the screw for extra locking. This operation is conveniently performed with a screwdriver with a magnetized tip.
Note! All threaded connections must be clamped well at once. Since the system “self-dragging” during rotation, it is necessary to exclude free running on the thread during the start jerk.
What threads are on the angle grinder. What threads are on the angle grinder Diameter
The main working properties of the angle grinder should be considered in the following directions: the cross section of the working disc, motor power, speed and weight of the tool. The last feature plays an important role properly pick up the angle grinder and is dependent on the cross-section of the disk, which, when, depend on other working properties of the angle grinder. After all, it is clear that not just a disk whether it be on metal, wood or concrete, the easier it will be during the work will be subjected to the frictional force, which should overcome the motor and the tool.
What to nullify our client is a potential case of injury while working with an angle grinder need to make the factory properties marked on the body of the tool superior similar designations on your favorite type of drive. To simplify the concept, let’s take a very common disc for metal with a cross section of 125 mm and a popular model of angle grinder (angle grinder) of the company Bosch.
We study the capabilities of an angle grinder Bosch, which are listed on the housing tag as it is also called in the data sheet: power 2000 W, 6500 RPM motor, powered from 220 V, designed for 230 mm disc cross, the thread on the spindle M 14. Now let’s take an ordinary cutting wheel in metal with a cross section of 125 mm, where the allowable speed of 12250 rpm, disk size and linear velocity of 80 m/s are specified.
VARIETY OF CLAMPING NUTS
Some manufacturers have paid enough attention to the problem of a tightened nut in the angle grinder and eliminated it. For example, a DeWALT sander has an advanced mechanism and a clamping nut that can be unscrewed quickly and easily even after prolonged use.
As the manufacturers of bolt-type lathes and the developers of clamping nuts do not stand still, either. The renowned German company AEG has modernized the clamping nut. As a result, using the nut of this company, you can forget about the inconvenience, the nut is unscrewed quickly and easily, at any time of need. And you no longer have to puzzle over how to get a stuck disk, and even its remnants. It’s quite simple: The AEG compression nut has a special thrust bearing that prevents the nut from jamming on its own and damaging the disc.
In addition to AEG, there are several other brands that produce and use special quick-clamping nuts.
These nuts are divided into two types:
- Those still need to be unscrewed with a wrench, but not as long and difficult
- And more advanced, which, even after a jammed disc, will allow you to unscrew them with finger movements.
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Finishing the nut and the gearbox shaft
The first thing you need to redo the clamping nut tightening the disk. It is cut or ground to fit a 36 mm open-end wrench.
After completing the nut it is necessary to remove the protective cover on the angle grinder. It is usually fixed with a Phillips screwdriver screw. Less often it can be unscrewed with an Allen wrench.
After getting rid of the shroud you need to grind the shaft coming out of the gearbox for a 17 mm wrench. It usually already has a factory countersink but it is made too narrow so a standard spanner cannot grasp it. If you have a spare angle grinder, you can make the recess without removing the shaft. When working with an emery or file it will still have to be removed.
Now the hard pressed disc can be unscrewed with two sturdy wrenches for 17 and 36. No need for a lock button at all.
By cutting the nut to a 36mm standard, the factory holes on it for a standard wrench with tabs will remain intact. This makes it possible to insert and remove the discs quickly and use a stronger tool in case of jamming.
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Nuts for angle grinder and angle grinder
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Competitive price in packages! Price for pack of 8 pcs.: 3 168 р. Price per unit. item: 396 р. 419 р.
Here you can find the nuts for grinders, which are necessary for fixation of the disk on the spindle. If the factory nut is damaged or lost, choose your accessories according to the model of the tool, taking into account its basic parameters. Properly selected nut ensures reliable fastening of the tool, reduces wheel run-out and increases work safety.
Parameters of the choice
Type. There are quick-clamp nuts for the angle grinder, which do not require the use of a tool for installation, and there are nuts, which require a wrench to fix. Depending on the type of equipment to a particular model of angle grinder, choose the appropriate type of nut, too.
Thread. To fix the element on the spindle, you need to pick up a suitable thread diameter. The most common standard thread is M14.
disc diameter. Each clamping nut for angle grinders is suitable for holding tools of a certain size, e.g. 180 to 230 mm or 115 to 150 mm in diameter.
Nailed it? The nut is stuck again and can’t replace the disk on the angle grinder? Yes, sometimes it can take half an hour or more to change. And how much effort and nerves you have to waste We suggest you consider a new approach to mounting accessories on the angle grinder. In this article, we will talk about the different types of nuts.
Another type of quick-clamping nut. One of the most popular examples is the Makita Ezynut. Similar in appearance to the Bosch SDS-clic or Metabo Quick. Its main feature is the movable bottom part (springs are installed inside) and the sealing ring, which moves at a small angle with the disc. It makes it easier to unscrew the top nut. Compared to other fasteners, this one has a larger diameter and thickness. There are also holes for a pin wrench. But they are not universal. you need a branded tool for unscrewing, if you can not remove the nut by hand.
Pros: easy to install and unscrew, robust construction.
Disadvantages: high price, due to the increased size, this fastener is not suitable for some laborious work.
Which mounting method to choose?
What kind of nut do you need to mount the disk of an angle grinder? There is no definite answer. It all depends on the specifics of your work and the model of the tool. Experience will show which is better. For example, for all the indisputable advantages of superlatives and quick-clamping elements, they have their detractors. They do not recognize the masters who are accustomed to work with a cutting wheel to the stop. In this case, a nut with a larger diameter than the standard nut does not allow for maximum use of the entire disc surface. There can also be problems when fixing some flap scraping wheels. Users working with diamond discs do not install such fasteners because they are heavier than standard ones. this affects the balance when precisely cutting stone.
Many believe that the key nut and swivel nut are a thing of the past. But that’s not the case. Affordable items are less likely to be broken, lost or loaned to the work crew. And those who want to buy a professional tool for themselves, of course, do not spare money and for such a small thing as a quick-clamp nut for fixing the disc of angle grinder. In our catalog you can find the right one for your type, price and purpose. come in and take your pick!
Methods of unscrewing if the disc is jammed
What to do if the clamping flange jams? This unpleasant situation, when the nut is jammed, often occurs when working with thick and strong materials, when the tool is jammed in the workpiece. In doing so, the abrasive wheel often breaks and the spinning spindle keeps tightening the clamping flange. There are several ways to release the angle grinder if the disk is jammed.
Using a gas wrench
This method is not entirely safe, because it is possible to break the stopper, although in most cases, it is possible to unscrew the nut. Do not apply too much force to the torque wrench to avoid breaking the spindle lock. The locking mechanism is designed to withstand the force of a standard spanner.
Use 2 wrenches to unscrew the excessively jammed flange. To do this, break off the protruding ends of the grinding wheel with pliers, so you can get the first gas wrench to the bottom flange. Next, clamp both flanges with wrenches and turn them in opposite directions (depending on whether the thread on the spindle is right or left).
Disassembling the Gearbox
If the locking mechanism is broken, you need to disassemble the gearbox to remove the tool from the angle grinder. Use pliers to break off the edges of the remaining abrasive wheel so that you can get to the bolts holding the gear cover. Then unscrew the fasteners and open the gearbox. The cover will be removed along with the gear shaft. Next, this shaft should be clamped in a vice, putting aluminum spacers between the steel jaws, and using a gas wrench unscrew the flange (do not forget to determine the direction of unscrewing).
Heating up the nut
The nut can be heated with a gas torch, construction hair dryer or blowtorch. The heated flange can be unscrewed with a standard angle grinder wrench.
Grinding a jammed wheel
If after using the first 3 ways the nut is not unscrewed, the remaining abrasive wheel between the flanges can be ground. To do this, proceed as follows.
- Use pliers to remove as much as possible of the remaining wheel around the edge of the nut.
- Grip in a vice a piece of sheet iron of the same thickness as the disk itself, turn on the angle grinder and grind the remnants of the wheel on the face of the sheet iron.
Instead of using iron, a piece of abrasive wheel can be clamped in a vice. Grinding of tool remnants between flanges will then happen faster and the nut can be unscrewed by hand.
But the use of a stationary abrasive wheel requires great care, because when grinding tool remnants can damage the geometry of the flange. If this happens, it will be necessary to machine the nut.
Use of penetrating grease
Apply WD-40 fluid liberally to the flange-shaft joint. It has the property of penetrating into inter-thread spaces and shallow crevices. After the application wait about 5 minutes and try to unscrew the fastener with a standard wrench.
With the use of a torque wrench
Some owners of lathes in a situation when the clamping nut is jammed, install a “chisel” or “jackhammer” attachment in the pedal, insert it into the flange hole at an angle and turn on the jackhammer mode without rotation. Respectively the locking button should be pressed. All it takes is a couple of light strokes with the hammer (not to break the shaft retainer) and the nut will start to rotate.
To cut the clamping flange with a hacksaw
This method can be called a radical method, because it is necessary to buy new fasteners and it is used, if the nut can not be unscrewed by any other method. To cut the flange, clamp the stop button so the shaft does not rotate and use a metal saw to cut the fastening nut.
The main working properties of the angle grinder should be considered in the following directions: the cross section of the working disk, motor power, speed and weight of the tool. The latter feature plays an important role properly pick up the angle grinder and is dependent on the cross section of the drive, which, when, depend on and other operating properties of the angle grinder. After all, it is clear that not just a disk whether it’s on metal, wood or concrete, the more it is simply during the work will be subjected to the frictional force, which should overcome the motor and the tool.
What to nullify our client is a potential case of injury while working with the angle grinder need to make that the factory properties, designated on the body of the tool superior similar designations applied to your chosen type of drive. To simplify the concept, let’s take a very common disc for metal with a cross section of 125 mm and a popular model of angle grinder (angle grinder) of the company Bosch.
We study the capabilities of angle grinder Bosch, which are listed on the nameplate housing as it is also called in the data sheet: power of 2000 W, 6500 RPM motor speed, powered by 220 V, designed for 230 mm disc cross, the thread on the spindle M 14. Now let’s take an ordinary metal cutting disc with 125 mm cross section, where allowable rpm 12250, disc dimensions and linear velocity 80 m/s are specified.
The marking of the Makita disk, to which you need to pay your attention
Initially, what remains for our customer is clear: the allowable angular velocity of the disk is 1.9 times higher than the highest angular velocity of the spindle of the angle grinder. this means that there is an option without fear of using this cutting disk on metal.
Pressing the planetary gear
To begin the process logically, let’s look at the reasons why pressing the assembly apart is necessary:
Any competent repair, involves replacing only the damaged parts, making a preliminary defectovkuyu tool as a whole. With a high probability, we preclude unprofitable actions. With unprofessional approach, pressing the assembly, you risk the spindle shaft and gear case flange (as practice shows, not an uncommon occurrence)
The preliminary step is to “soak” the landing deep penetrating grease (WD-40 ideally / or any analogue) for at least 10 minutes, it will not make it worse.
Nut Overview. Quick clamping nut for angle grinder (angle grinder)
What is this nut and why is it a quick-clamping nut?? Because it is quick and easy to clamp/clamp by hand. Such a nut I first saw about ten years ago, in the garages, at one man on the “angle grinder”. I doubt he bought it, but okay. The meaning of using this nut is simple. quickly clamp and unclamp the various disks installed on the angle grinder, without using a special wrench. I found this nut on eBay pretty quickly and was a little saddened. The only company that made these nuts back then was Bosch (I haven’t seen any others) and it cost 55 at the time (it’s cheaper now). That’s why I decided to stop using this nut and thought I would use a wrench to squeeze the disks. Makita, Milwaukee, and other brands have similar nuts at the moment. I think not without the help of the Chinese, so it is not surprising that they appeared on Ali. So of course I got myself one. Bosch has two nuts
The first option is an inexpensive nut. And it only differs from a regular one by having a hinged bracket that you can use your hand to unscrew/screw the nut. And I’m not sure that it will be easy to unscrew, after a long time using an angle grinder. UPD. Corrected in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев that this nut is also quick-release, due to the spring-loaded pressure ring. The second version is exactly the nut I saw ten years ago. Anyway, I bought the Chinese equivalent, which is five times cheaper. And here it is
Basically the nut is black (looks like blued). One part is light gray. And I don’t know what it is. Paint or some kind of metal work. Just a gray, matte and uniform color. The nut looks more solid than the usual, stock, from the angle grinder
A conventional nut is more than half the weight
The diameter of the nut is 46.5mm Thickness of the nut is 13.The 6mm internal thread is M14
The nut has two recesses for the normal angle grinder nut wrench. But I personally just clamp the nut by hand. I’ve always hand tightened/unscrewed a regular nut too. Well, not the nut itself, but by locking the shaft and grasping the disc itself with your hand. I’ve been able to unscrew it most of the time. The “front” side of the nut is laser engraved. Nut rotation directions for tightening. loosening, and thread rating. The (gray) back has a “spongy” surface, for a better grip on the disk. There is also a grooved notch around the perimeter of the nut, for better “grasping” by hand. Overall, the nut looks solid. There are no imperfections visually. It’s nice and neat. On Ali there is a nut and not blued, and they are cheaper, but the internal peektionist wanted a black. If you pay attention to the back side of the nut, the one where the gray part, you can see the indentation made on the contour around the threaded hole
It’s not made for nothing. The thing is that when you install discs thinner than 1 on the angle grinder.5-2 mm (depends on the angle grinder), the seating washer will protrude over the surface of the disk
That’s why I made this notch in the nut, so that the protruding part of the washer could be sunk into it. Otherwise the nut wouldn’t clamp the disk. The first thing I wanted to do, of course, was to put a nut on the angle grinder. I have a small, inexpensive angle grinder, for discs up to 125 mm
We unscrew the standard nut, and screw on a sabre instead
It looks serious. I tried to turn on the “angle grinder”. It’s okay to twist and turn. I don’t know how it’s balanced there, but I haven’t noticed any vibrations or vibrations on the “angle grinder”. Tried sawing the metal pipe. It’s okay. Now let’s try to unscrew the nut. And I did it without the slightest effort. Just with two fingers. It was a bit of a surprise. I have tightened and loosened a similar nut from Bosch, but that was years ago, and all I remember is that it was like a ratchet in a self-centering chuck. It clicked into place. Maybe that’s how it works, or maybe it’s just a distorted memory. I fiddled with the nut some more, unscrewing it and tightening it, and then I asked my wife to try to unscrew it. I’d jammed the nut pretty hard beforehand. And my wife had no problem unscrewing it. Seemed like the miracle of miracles. But for every miracle, there is an explanation. And there it is. The thing is that the outer part of the nut, a little bit rotates relative to the inner. A degree or two, it doesn’t matter how much. The whole thing is spring-loaded and goes back. You can try it in your hands. By clamping the middle of the nut with your fingers and turning the outer part counterclockwise. And with that, the gray part of the nut is sinking a little bit inside of the whole thing. How it works in the end? When the nut is squeezed it is pressed tightly against the cutting disc with its gray ribbed part. When you start to unscrew the nut, the upper part turns, and the gray part goes inside the nut, pushing away from the disc. Not by much. A fraction of a millimeter is enough so that the nut and disc are no longer in contact or jammed. And since the nut is no longer under pressure from the cutting wheel, it can easily be unscrewed by hand. Without much effort. I hope I was able to explain to you how this nut works.
I initially thought I wouldn’t be able to disassemble it, but a closer look reveals a retaining ring, which isn’t hard to remove
After removing the ring, we remove the pressure washer with the support roller bearing
The bearing shell is plastic, but that shouldn’t be a problem. There is no load on the cage itself. All the elements inside are lubricated with a very thin layer of some translucent grease. Then we need to take out another retaining ring and a rubber seal. By the way, it was a bit of a struggle with this ring
Here’s where the inside of this nut opens up. We see a thrust washer with three springs
Here, the track roller bearing is already in a metal cage. Everything is also lubricated with translucent grease. If you look closely at this intricate mechanism, you can see how it works. When you turn the nut, the thrust washer turns and sags a little in the grooves under the pressure of the disk of the “angle grinder”. If you undo the nut slowly, you can feel it with your hand. At first it is a little bit stiff, but then you get a “click” and it becomes easy to undo. And for such a seemingly simple task, there are so many elements that make up the nut
I’m more than sure that this whole mechanism was “stolen” from Bosch. Everything is made pretty well. The only thing that can fail is the quality of materials. Under the lot I bought the review appeared in which the man wrote that his nut is jammed when “jamming” angle grinder. But I have not had such problems. There might be problems with the bigger grinders. But in the absence of one, I can’t verify it. Skeptics, of course, may say that the Chinese piece of work can unscrew during operation, the drive will fly off the shaft and kill everything within a radius of one hundred meters. But I’m not a skeptic, and I don’t give a shit, sorry. I have been using the nut for a little over a month. Cut metal, laminate, tile, and grinding metal with a disc roughing. So far, so good.