Remake Ant Engine From Tiller

Running in a new engine

Engine break-in is a mandatory procedure that extends the service life of the mechanism. To run the tiller engine, you must adhere to the operating instructions for the product, use high-quality fuel and oil of the recommended brands.

remake, engine, tiller

Running-in is carried out as follows:

  • Before starting the engine, check the oil level in the crankcase.
  • Check and refill transmission oil if necessary.
  • Fill the fuel tank with flammable material.
  • Start the engine at low rpm.
  • Start working with the tiller in a gentle mode, changing gears alternately. Till the soil in 2 steps to a depth of no more than 10 cm in 1 pass, cultivate in 2nd gear.
  • After running-in, change the oil in the engine, transmission units, tiller gearbox, inspect consumables, change oil filters, fill in new fuel.
  • The run-in procedure takes about 8 hours.

After a competently run-in of a new motor, the tiller is ready to work at maximum loads.

How to install a Lifan engine on a tiller

Each model and class of tiller has its own engine. Consider the following examples:

Kerbal Space Program: Ant Engine Challenge

  • Tiller Ugra NMB-1N7 with Lifan engine corresponds to the version 168F-2A.
  • Tiller Salyut 100. version 168F-2B.
  • Ugra NMB-1H14 middle class. Lifan 177F engine with a power of 9 liters. from.
  • Agat equipment with a Lifan engine can be equipped with the 168F-2 and Lifan 177F models.
  • An eye with a Lifan 177F engine when aggregated with attachments will work better and more efficiently. Model 168F-2 with a capacity of 6.5 liters. from. also suitable for tiller Oka MB-1D1M10S with Lifan engine

The engine can be installed on Tilleri Ural, Oka, Neva according to the following algorithm of actions:

  • Remove the protective cover from the old engine, belts, pulley, while unscrewing the bolts.
  • Remove the air-purifying filter to disconnect the gas cable.
  • Remove the engine from the tiller frame.
  • Install the motor. If necessary, a transition platform is installed.
  • A pulley is attached to the shaft, the belt is pulled for better track performance, adjusting the position of the motor.
  • Secure the adapter plate and engine.

The user must take care of the mounting hardware when installing the motor.

Fuel consumption

For the 168F and 168F-2 engines, the fuel consumption is 394 g / kWh.

Lifan 177F and 2V77F models can consume 374 g / kWh.

As a result, the estimated operating time is 6-7 hours.

The manufacturer recommends using AI-92 gasoline (95).

Adjustment of valves

Valve adjustment is a necessary procedure when servicing the motor. According to the regulations, it is carried out once a year and consists in setting the optimal clearances of the intake and exhaust valves. Their permissible value for each motor model is presented in the technical data sheet of the unit. For standard tillers, they have the following meanings:

  • for the inlet valve. 0.10-0.15 mm;
  • for the exhaust valve. 0.15-0.20 mm.

Gaps are adjusted using standard styli 0.10 mm, 0.15 mm, 0.20 mm.

With the correct setting of the intake and exhaust valves, the motor will run without noise, knocking or jerking.

Installing the Lifan engine on the Tiller Ural

The factory equipment of Ural chillers assumes the presence of a domestic engine. In some cases, the power and performance of such a motor is not enough, so it becomes necessary to redo the equipment. It is quite simple to equip the Ural Tiller with a Lifan engine with your own hands, however, before starting work, you need to decide for what purpose the equipment is being created, choose a suitable engine.

Certain motors are suitable for different types and weights of chillers, so it is important that the parameters are matched. The heavier the tiller itself, the more powerful the engine must be. For the Urals, models such as Lifan 170F (7 hp), 168F-2 (6.5 hp) are suitable. Minimum rework is required to install them.

The main feature that distinguishes Chinese engines from domestic ones is the direction of rotation of the shaft, for Lifan. to the left, on factory engines of the Urals. to the right. For this reason, the tiller is configured to rotate the shaft to the right; to install a new motor, it is necessary to change the position of the chain gear so that the pulley is on the opposite side, which allows it to rotate in the other direction.

After the gearbox is on the other side, the engine is installed in a standard way. the engine itself is bolted, the belts are thrown over the pulleys, and their position is adjusted.

What kind of oil to fill in the engine

The manufacturer recommends using a tiller engine oil that meets GOST 10541-78 or API requirements: SF, SG, SH and SAE. Type of low-viscosity substance. mineral oil 10W30, 15W30.

Andy’s DIY: How to install an engine on a rototiller

Engine service

To ensure the quality operation of the Lifan motor for the tiller, it is necessary to carry out periodic maintenance, which includes the following points:

  • Checking the oil level, adding new oil.
  • Cleaning and replacing the air filter.

Every 6 months you need to do the following:

  • Sump cleaning.
  • Adjusting and replacing spark plugs.
  • Spark arrester treatment.

The following procedures are carried out annually:

  • Checking and adjusting the idling of the engine.
  • Adjusting the optimal valve clearances.
  • Complete oil change.
  • Cleaning the fuel tank.

The fuel line is checked every 2 years.

How to install the engine from Tiller Ant

Work on installing the engine from the Tiller Ant should begin with moving the motor. Then it is recommended to adhere to a certain plan in order to get a high-quality and reliable unit:

  • Frame manufacturing. This is done by welding a sheet of iron to a 4mm diameter pipe. The frame must be firmly attached to the engine.
  • Installing the carburetor, air filter and muffler.

Important! A cooling cover must be fitted to protect the unit from overheating.

In this video, consider an ant on a tiller engine:

Attention! You will have to open and close the carburetor flap manually.

  • we install the wheel in the front of the tiller, and the level of plowing depth and ease of control will depend on the correct attachment;
  • we make nozzles from pipes and corners, fix them with a key in special grooves and, so that there is no movement along the axis, we fix them with bolts;
  • we determine the level of capture of about 1-1.2 meters, depending on the work performed.

The unit based on the motor scooter Ant will turn out to be a little bulky, weighing about 90 kilograms, and slightly clumsy. But special maneuverability in the garden and in the field is not required, since there are usually no obstacles that must be frequently bypassed. But the motor will perfectly withstand all loads, even with long and continuous operation.

When a home-made Ant with a motor from a tiller needs to be moved a long distance, then in the manufacture of equipment it should be possible to install wheels that are bolted through, or make an additional stand for transportation in the back of a truck or in a trailer.

It is also possible to make the wheels smaller and attach a plow, potato digger or tiller.

Engine from Tiller to Ant

Auto mechanic specializing in agricultural machinery

Agricultural machinery used in personal plots, fields, vegetable gardens and summer cottages, at the present time, is a fairly technologically advanced device. It is almost impossible to find a person who has not used a tiller or cultivator to facilitate the labor associated with working on the soil.

You can choose a tiller for every taste and budget, or you can make it yourself. Often the motor from the unit is used to make a full-fledged scooter, which is also indispensable for farmers, because the movement of goods over long distances is always required. Consider how to make a motor scooter Ant with an engine from a home tiller.

Use a tiller motor to give life to a new device

Reviews

Vasily, 32 years old

“The old Ant has been gathering dust in the garage for several years. After looking at several relevant articles on the Internet, I decided to adapt the motor from the tiller to it. It turned out to be an excellent au pair, an economical and reliable unit. And do-it-yourself production of Bosch would be much cheaper if I bought a new device. “.

“Combining Tiller and Ant is a great idea, which miraculously came to mind. Having made the equipment, I received a unit that perfectly copes with all agricultural work on my personal plot. It not only loosens and digs up the soil, but also helps in harvesting and transporting various heavy loads. I am very pleased with the new technology. “.

Do-it-yourself Tiller Cascade modernization

Most of the upgrades of tillers are aimed at improving important characteristics, for example, performance, cross-country ability, expanding functionality. Upgrading the Tiller Cascade will help improve certain characteristics or correct shortcomings.

Engine replacement may become necessary to improve performance. Lifan engines have proven themselves for their quality and long service life, and in addition, they are excellent for the Cascade tiller. It is important to take into account that if a motor of an imported manufacturer is purchased, the rotation of the shaft may differ (clockwise), while domestic tillers are adapted to engines in which the shaft rotates counterclockwise. The problem is easily solved. just move the tiller pulley to the other side.

Larger wheels can be fitted to improve flotation and stability. Pneumatic wheels show themselves well. Also, instead of wheels, you can install lugs, which are easy to purchase from the manufacturer or create with your own hands.

External tuning of the unit

Structurally, light, medium and heavy tillers practically do not differ. They consist of a power plant, chassis and controls. The operator resembles an ancient plowman, holding the machine handles with both hands. However, it is not protected from sunlight, rain, snow and heat from the engine. There is no need to spend additional funds to create additional comfort. Everything you need is at hand. External retrofitting of the tiller involves the installation of a removable or permanent awning, an additional protective casing or a hood above the power plant.

For work you will need:

  • roulette;
  • building level;
  • Angle Grinder;
  • welding machine;
  • electric drill;
  • set of wrenches;
  • steel or aluminum corner 30 x 30 mm;
  • paint brush;
  • acrylic paint;
  • tarpaulin or cellular polycarbonate;
  • flexible plastic.

External revision of the tiller is carried out in the following sequence:

  • Drawing up drawings. It is necessary to accurately calculate all dimensions of the frame, provide options for its attachment to the frame and handles.
  • Marking, cutting out blanks for awning, casing, fenders and hood.
  • Welding the frame from the corner. Drilling mounting holes, cleaning metal from rust, oil and dirt. Painting of the manufactured structure.
  • Fitting the frame to the frame. Basting and making holes in it. Fastening the frame with bolts and nuts, checking the reliability of all connections.
  • Installation of plastic covers and awnings on frames.

There is an option of mounting the instrument panel on the handle. So the unit will look solid and representative. The operator additionally gets the opportunity to monitor the state of the power plant, know the speed of the machine and the distance traveled. When remodeling the tiller from the outside, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that air freely penetrates to the motor, cooling it qualitatively.

How to improve a tiller with your own hands: revision and modernization

Often, alteration of a tiller is carried out in cases where the operational characteristics of the unit, functionality and ease of operation no longer satisfy the owner of the equipment. In some cases, individual craftsmen carry out tuning of the tiller to realize their visual fantasies or to impress others. Today, almost every private house and summer cottage has a tiller or a motor-cultivator. However, the capabilities of this technique are limited. To expand the functionality of tillers, you can contact a specialized workshop, but the cost of such a conversion can be very high. There are several ways to do it yourself inexpensive and practical tiller upgrade.

Manufacturing of additional devices

Tillers are sold assembled and with a minimum set. The plow and cutter are clearly not enough to carry out the entire volume of agricultural work. A factory kit for reworking a tiller can cost more than the unit itself. You can make various attachments and attachments from scrap materials using the tools that are in every pantry of a country house and summer cottage.

It is worth considering some options for making additional equipment with your own hands:

  • Redesigned rake for collecting cut grass, debris, twigs and fallen leaves. If you do this work manually, then it will take a lot of time and effort. Trailed equipment will allow you to clean large areas in a few minutes. For work, you will need a wide strip of sheet iron and several meters of reinforcement with a cross section of 8-12 mm. The reinforcement should be cut into 10 cm long pieces and welded to the plate in several rows and at intervals of 3-4 cm. Long rods are welded to the plate to attach to the tiller frame. The trailed rake can be equipped with rollers for improved maneuverability and smooth running.
  • Blade for cleaning snow. Most units work much more efficiently in the cold, as they do not overheat. Snow removal can be mechanized in winter. The moldboard is made of two pieces of channel welded together. This makes it possible to obtain a grasping height of up to 40 cm. The blade width is selected according to the power and weight of the unit within the range of 40-80 cm. The blade is rigidly bolted to the front of the machine. Initially, it can be mobile or stationary.

With a creative approach, you can make a hiller, harrows and a potato digger that are not inferior in quality to factory counterparts.

How to remake a tiller

Many owners want to improve the tiller to increase comfort during work. The most common modifications are adapters and trailers. This upgrade allows you to expand the functionality of the tiller, because the adapter allows you not only to transport various goods, but also to use the tiller as a vehicle.

Improving the tiller will allow you to create a whole mini-tractor. Adapters and trailers can have their own steering, which is much more convenient than using a tiller steering wheel. There are many step-by-step photo tutorials and videos showing how to create a trailer. One of the most important elements of such a device is the frame, which is made from a channel or pipes. Wheels can be taken from any car, ideally wheels from an ATV. Bridges can be taken from VAZ 21-09, they must be shortened. The steering column can be taken from the same vehicle. The driver’s seat will allow you to work with maximum comfort.

In addition, a mini excavator can be made from a tiller, which requires a hydraulic system to create. Such an excavator is very convenient for construction on a personal plot, because it is compact and can drive where heavy equipment cannot.

Increase in speed and cross-country ability

These questions are relevant for those who have to work on hard and wet ground, on ups and downs. Even the most advanced models can slip, forcing the operator to put extra effort to push the machine forward. Many are not satisfied with the speed of the unit when towing equipment or transporting various goods.

There are several ways to solve these problems:

    Increase the diameter of the wheels. Most of the tillers are equipped with wheels with a diameter of 25-30 cm. If you put wheels 45-50 cm from an old small car, then the speed of the unit will double. But, you should not make a racing car out of a tiller, since this device does not have high strength and good stability. You can accelerate to 25-30 km / h only on a flat road without sharp turns.

There are many opportunities for a radical transformation of even a small domestically produced tiller. This technique can be transformed into any agricultural implement and off-road vehicle.

Power plant tuning

Its power and equipment performance depend on the stability of the engine. It is very expensive and unpromising to upgrade a regular motor. But, there are several ways to make the engine work more efficiently.

This requires:

  • Install a quality spark plug. Regularly clean it from carbon deposits, periodically check the gap. At the first sign of a decrease in power, replace the plug.
  • Use the best strips on all joints. This allows you to maintain the desired pressure in the unit, prevents a decrease in power and the formation of smoke during operation.
  • Fill the engine with the best oil up to the upper mark. It should be remembered that when the unit is tilted, oil outflows from rubbing parts.
  • Check the quality of fuel before filling the tank. It is advisable to let it settle for a while so that the water sinks to the bottom of the container. The tank itself must be cleaned and wiped dry every 2-3 days.
  • Install an additional radiator. To do this, steel plates are welded to the engine housing, which will effectively remove excess heat.

A radical solution is to replace the power plant with a more powerful and perfect one. Today you can buy Japanese, Chinese and European engines that are characterized by high performance and reliability. It is possible that the frame will have to be redone for a new power plant.

Do-it-yourself tiller Oka revision

Do-it-yourself tiller improvements can be almost any, it all depends on engineering skills and the availability of the necessary resources. tiller Oka can be upgraded in different ways: improve what is already there, or add various devices and devices.

The most common revision is engine replacement, as a factory-fitted engine may not suit the owner. When changing the engine, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the tiller itself, as well as the loads to which it will be subjected. Depending on the class of the tiller, an engine of appropriate power is selected. the heavier, the more powerful the motor.

You can modify the Oka tiller in the same ways that are used for other brands: creating trailers, various attachments, replacing wheels, improving driving performance, etc.

Do-it-yourself mini tractor from a tiller. manufacturing procedure

Before you start making a mini tractor based on a tiller, you will need to prepare the materials necessary for work. Conversion kit includes:

  • welding machine;
  • screwdrivers and wrenches;
  • electric drill and a set of various drills;
  • angle grinder and a set of discs for working with metal;
  • set of nuts and bolts.

Suitable drawings will help to correctly assemble a tractor from a tiller. In them you will find information about the order in which to connect the parts and which mounting method is suitable for their reliable installation. Converting a tiller into a mini tractor is performed in the following order:

  • A mini tractor based on a tiller must be equipped with a strong, reliable frame. It must withstand an additional pair of wheels, plus the load transported in the tractor will press on the supporting structure. For making a solid frame, pipes or metal corners are best. Be sure to keep in mind that the heavier the frame, the better the adhesion of the mini tractor to the road, and the better the plowing of the soil will be. The thickness of the frame walls is also not very important. the main thing is that they do not bend under the pressure of the transported cargo. You can cut the blanks for making the frame using an angle grinder. Then all the parts are connected to each other, first by means of bolts, after which they are finally welded to each other. To make the frame stronger and more reliable, equip it with a crossbeam;
  • Immediately after the frame has been manufactured, it can be equipped with a hitch, by means of which the small tractor will be equipped with additional accessories. The hitch can be installed both in the front and in the rear of the supporting structure. If in the future the minitractor being manufactured is planned to be used in tandem with a trailer, then a hitch should be welded to the rear of its frame;
  • At the next stage, the homemade product is equipped with front wheels. For this, the mini-tractor being manufactured is best equipped with two ready-made hubs with brakes provided on them. Next, you need to fix the wheels themselves. To do this, take a piece of steel pipe, the diameter of which fits the front axle. Next, attach the wheel hubs to the pipe. Drill a hole in the center of the pipe, which is necessary to mount the product to the front of the frame. Then install the tie rods and adjust them in relation to the frame by means of a worm gear. After mounting the gearbox, install the steering column. The axle at the rear of the manufactured tractor is mounted through pressed-in bearing bushings. Wheels used should be no more than 15 inches in diameter. Smaller parts will lead to “burying” of the unit with the front part, and larger wheels will significantly impair the maneuverability of the mini tractor;
  • The next step is to equip the minitractor with a tiller engine. It is best to mount the motor at the front of the machine, as this will improve the balance of the agricultural machine when operating with a loaded trailer. Establish a secure mounting system to mount the motor. When installing the motor, do not forget that the power take-off shaft must be secured coaxially with the pulley located on the rear axle of the mini-tractor. The force on the wheels must be carried by a belt drive. details about converting a tiller into a mini tractor will be described in the video.

A self-made tractor will remain equipped with a reliable braking system and a high-quality hydraulic valve, which is necessary for the proper operation of the unit with attachments.

Mini tractor from a tiller: 4 do-it-yourself manufacturing option

Many tiller owners often think about upgrading their agricultural equipment. In fact, it will not be difficult to improve the existing unit, and make a full-fledged mini-tractor out of it. However, you will be required to study the recommendations and follow the procedure. this will give you the opportunity to get an effective home-made mini tractor that will be able to solve absolutely all the tasks assigned to it.

Mini tractor from Tiller Neva

Converting a tiller into a small tractor may be slightly different. It all depends on the design features of the tiller and his abilities. Consider the principle of making a mini-tractor from Neva brand tractors.

As in the first case, before making a mini tractor, you need to study the schemes. They detail the dimensions of the elements and the order of their installation during assembly. The procedure for rework will be as follows:

  • The frame is made in the same way as in the first case. To create it, use pipes of different sections. Fastening of the frame elements is carried out by means of bolts and welding;
  • Next, proceed to the manufacture and installation of the chassis. To mount the rear wheels, use an additional axle, which can be made from steel pipe. Press the bearings and bushings into both ends of the latter, which will be equipped with the rear wheels;
  • Further, the tractor from the Tiller Neva must be equipped with a motor. over, the engine can be installed both in the front and in the rear of the frame. In the second case, the front and rear wheelbase of the mini tractor will need to be expanded;

In the end, the self-made unit will remain equipped with a driver’s seat, lighting devices and side lights. Due to its small size, the finished tractor will have high maneuverability, which will allow you to effectively use it in hard-to-reach places.

Mini tractor from Tiller Bison

Tillers of this brand have a reliable and powerful enough motor, the presence of which allows the unit to be converted into an all-wheel drive minitractor. Before starting work, be sure to study the detailed drawings, as well as buy steel sheets, pipes and corners. The procedure for manufacturing a mini tractor is as follows:

  • When arranging the frame, you will need to expand the existing tiller frame. This is necessary in order to install additional wheels. Cut the corners and pipes into suitable pieces, then weld them to each other;
  • The front beam on the mini tractor is mounted by means of a ready-made hub equipped with brakes. Wheels in the front of the unit must correspond to the size of the rear wheels, or be slightly larger than the latter. this will prevent the mini-tractor from “burrowing” when driving over rough terrain;
  • Then install the tiller motor. It is best to mount it at the front to achieve the best balance of the overall structure;
  • Weld the towbar to the rear of the finished mini-tractor. it will be required for mounting the trailer.

A homemade mini-tractor based on the Zubr tiller will be able to cope with a number of the most difficult economic tasks: plowing the soil, mowing grass, collecting and transporting crops.

How to make a mini tractor from MTZ Tiller?

To remake Tillers of this brand, you should also take into account their design and capabilities. MTZ units have a sufficiently high power, which makes it possible to make a full-fledged tracked mini-tractor out of them. It will feature high cross-country ability and excellent grip, due to which the quality of plowing the soil of such a machine will be several times higher than that of wheeled mini-tractors.

Before starting work, be sure to study the drawings, in which you will find all the information required for the alteration. The procedure for assembling a mini tractor is as follows:

  • First put the tiller into mower operation;
  • Then completely dismantle the front platform of the unit;
  • Install a caterpillar drive in the front of the mini-tractor being manufactured;
  • Install an adjusting rod in the niche for mounting the steering rod. This element will increase the rigidity of the entire structure;
  • Weld the driver’s seat to the top of the frame;
  • Next to the motor, arrange a platform for mounting the battery and hydraulic valve.

Such a manufacturing method is suitable for converting MTZ 05, MTZ 09 and MTZ 12 tillers into small tractors. Each of them has a sufficient power reserve to work together with a trailer and attachments at the same time.

Mini tractor from Tiller Agro

Before you start reworking the tillers of this brand, you should stock up on material and the necessary tools. To work you will need:

  • stainless steel sheets and profiles;
  • seat and steering wheel. can be removed from an old car;
  • a pair of wheels. their diameter should not exceed 15 ”;
  • a set of fasteners;
  • angle grinder and electric drill;
  • hammer and welding machine.

After preparing everything you need, we advise you to study the diagrams that will tell you the correct procedure for installing the tractor elements. We also advise you to see photos that will certainly help you in the manufacture of an agricultural unit.
Unlike tillers of the manufacturers listed above, Agro equipment has one significant drawback, which must be taken into account when converting a tiller into a mini tractor. It lies in the fact that the tiller axis has very weak fracture strength. This kind of break will surely affect if you exceed the maximum permissible load on the mini tractor frame. To avoid further malfunction, the mini tractor will need to be equipped with wheel gears.

The procedure for assembling the unit is as follows:

  • The first step is to weld a sturdy tractor frame. To do this, use steel profiles and pipes. Be sure to keep in mind that the heavier the manufactured frame is, the better the adhesion of the mini tractor to the ground will be. At the rear of the supporting structure, weld the tow hitch, which is required to hitch the trailer to the unit;
  • Then proceed to the manufacture and arrangement of the mini tractor undercarriage. To do this, you can purchase a pair of ready-made front wheels, as well as hubs equipped with brakes. After purchasing the parts, attach the hubs to the steel pipe, and drill the holes in the front of the frame that will be required to mount the hubs to the mini tractor. Next, install the steering rods using a worm gear. After the rods, secure the steering column and rear axle. When installing the latter in the bushings used for mounting, press in the bearings. Install a pulley on the rear axle and secure the wheels;
  • Then mount the engine to the front of the frame. We advise you to do this by means of an additional frame placed on special shock absorbers. this will avoid strong vibrations at high loads on the motor;
  • Next, install the driver’s seat on the mini-tractor, connecting it to the frame through the springs. thanks to them, it will be much more convenient to work with the mini-tractor.

If you wish, your hand-made compact tractor can be equipped with a canopy that will protect you from rain and sun. To make it, 4 steel pipes must be welded to the frame next to the seat and steering column, to which a steel sheet must be fixed by spot welding. As a result, you will receive a reliable unit for a summer residence that will quickly cope with all the tasks assigned to it.

1.1 Where to start manufacturing the unit?

First you need to find an old scooter and decide what size the areas will be processed. The power of the tiller engine depends on this. The motor scooter Ant with an engine from a tiller is redesigned for a real tiller according to the standard traditional scheme:

  • Frame.
  • Engine.
  • Two-wheel chassis.

To the vehicle. the tiller is attached to minor details that can be very useful in the further use of the device:

Following from the above, the frame, engine, wheels, steering wheel, seat and electrical equipment are considered important elements for the manufacture of a tiller.
to the menu

Chain reducer

The two-stage chain reducer is designed to reduce the rotational speed and increase the torque transmitted from the output shaft of the power unit to the wheels or rippers.

Chain reducer drawing

body (channel No. 20); 2. cover (StZ, sheet s5); 3. gasket (oil-resistant rubber) 4. second stage drive sprocket (z = 11, t = 19.05); 5-key; 6.bearing 206 (2 pcs.); 7- compensation sleeve; 8.shaft; 9. nut М22х1,5 with spring washer; 10. oil seal; 11. spacer sleeve with keyway; 12-eccentric bearing housing (StZ, 2 pcs.); 13. screw M8 with spring washer (30 pcs.); 14. driven sprocket of the second stage (z = 25, t = 19.05); 15- bearing 3008 (2 pcs.); 16. bearing housing; 17. sealing sleeve; 18. left axle shaft; 19-oil drain plug (screw M10); 20. the bottom of the case (StZ, sheet s4); 21. oil filler plug (screw Ml0); 22.23. oil seals (2 pcs.); 24. right axle shaft; 25. fixing screws M6 (8 pcs.); 26. bolt М8; 27. chain t = 19.05; 28. driven sprocket of the first stage (z = 57, t = 12.7); 29. spacer sleeve

The 1st gear stage consists of two sprockets (17 and 57 teeth with a pitch of 12.75 mm). The driving sprocket (17 teeth) is mounted on the output shaft of the power unit, driven. on the outer flange of the 2nd stage input shaft. 2nd stage of the reducer. reinforced (driving sprocket 11 teeth, driven 25 teeth, tooth pitch 19.05 mm). Since this stage during the operation of the tiller is close to the cultivated soil, to protect it from dust, it is placed in a closed crankcase, welded to the crossbars directly and to the side members through steel spacers.

A brace is welded between the crankcase and the cross member for reliability. The crankcase is welded from two channels No. 2 with shelves reduced in length to 35 mm. In the lower part, the shape of the walls of the channels. a semicircle, instead of the shelves, which are cut off, the bottom is welded from a 4-mm steel sheet, curved in the form of a half-cylinder along the walls of the channels. The top of the crankcase is covered with a cover with a gasket made of oil-resistant rubber.

In both walls there are two coaxial holes for the bearing housings (d = 100 mm). Each of these holes is lined with six other threaded holes (M8) for attaching the housings to the crankcase. At the bottom bearings (i.e. half-shaft bearings). ordinary housings, at the top (shaft bearings). eccentric. By turning them around the axis (at least 15 °), the chain tension of the 2nd stage of the gearbox is adjusted stepwise.

The shaft of this gear stage is installed in two ball bearings 206. The drive sprocket is fixed by two spacer sleeves between the inner walls of the crankcase, exactly in the middle, and is connected to the shaft by a parallel key. The large driven sprocket sits on the centering boss of the right axle shaft and is secured with six M8 bolts between the counter flanges of the axle shafts. Its lower teeth, together with the chain links on them, are constantly immersed in oil. During the operation of the tiller, the oil is carried by the chain to the upper part of the crankcase. thus, rubbing parts of the 2nd stage are lubricated. Stuffing boxes in the bearing housings protect against oil leakage to the outside. Rigid flange joint of the axle shafts forms a single shaft, placed in two 308 ball bearings.

Cooling the power unit

Before making a mini-tractor with an engine from a Ural motorcycle, a forced cooling system diagram is being prepared. Without it, the motor will overheat. Experts do not recommend equipping a liquid cooling system.

The principle of such a system can be taken from motor vehicles (transfer of force from the crankshaft to the fan). Cut a thread at the end of the pulley. To fix it to the crankshaft, you need an M7 screw. The supply fan is equipped with 4 blades cut from sheet steel. Fan shaft shown as driven pulley design.

The shaft bearing is installed in the housing. For the production of the protective ring, we use a steel sheet with a thickness of 3 mm. The housing with bearings is mounted on 4 steel spokes in the center. You will need 3 brackets to fix the ring to the motor. The guide cover is made of duralumin. This part reduces the dispersion of the air flow from the fan.

The self-made mini-tractor is equipped with a gearbox from Pobeda, a bridge from Moskvich 408. The wheels can be removed from the UAZ, and the wheels can be removed from Volvo. To change the direction of rotation, turn the gearbox on the bridge by 180º. With the help of chains, you can get compact mini-equipment (in length as “Ural”).

To assemble a heavy tiller, an engine from an IZH motorcycle is used. Since the speed of movement of equipment during operation is low, therefore, a forced cooling system is installed. For this, an electric fan or a driven device is used. To direct the flow of air masses to the working cylinder of the power unit, a protective cover is installed.

Using a homemade tiller from a motorcycle IZH, you can process large land plots.

Today tiller “Ant” can be quite serious brand-name unit of factory assembly. With its help, you can carry out various agricultural work on your personal plot, avoiding long and exhausting manual labor. At the same time, its weight is less than 100 kg, which makes it possible to transport the device in the trunk of a car. Its dimensions are quite compact, it does not require special storage conditions, it can easily fit both in a utility room and in a residential apartment in a city high-rise building. However, since the price for it starts from 25 thousand rubles, it makes clear sense to make such a tiller with your own hands from an old scooter. Especially popular are homemade tillers with an engine and a gearbox from the “Ant” scooter, which in their characteristics are close to similar factory-assembled tiller parts.

1.3 Tiller engine

In the manufacture of such a unit, you can use a two-stroke gasoline engine from the Ant motor scooter. Such an engine has forced air cooling and this is an undoubted advantage at low speed in order to avoid overheating. The engine is interlocked with a four-speed gearbox. To reduce the cost of the unit and reduce the size of the tiller, you can make a muffler with your own hands, using parts from a factory muffler from a motor scooter. The exhaust tract is positioned to the side, and the muffler itself is inserted into the exhaust cylinder.

The engine is started using a kickstarter, the speeds are switched using a lever located on the box with sectors. It is necessary to lengthen the gear shaft by 170 mm in order to integrate the overrunning clutch. The driven sprocket is attached to the end of the left shaft. Due to the rotation of the shaft, the coupling interacts with the roller and the roller is set in motion.

Tiller engine

In the design, I used a two-stroke gasoline 13-horsepower motor of a cargo scooter “Ant” has forced air cooling. This is an indisputable plus in a situation of inevitable overheating of the motor due to a low speed. The four-speed gearbox is interlocked with the engine, the muffler is homemade: a steel pipe filled with metal shavings (pipe length 250 mm, diameter 70 mm, exhaust hole 16 mm). The exhaust tract has a complex shape due to the layout of the tiller and the fact that the exhaust should be to the side.

The frame on which the engine is located is a sled, to the cross members of which an arc from a water pipe is welded (d = 42 mm). Brackets are welded to the arc in the center and at the ends.

sled runner (corner 40 × 40, 2 pcs.); 2- back cross member; 3. ridge (steel pipe 1 1/4 ″); 4-bracket-bracket (StZ, strip 50 × 4, 3 pcs.); 5. middle cross member: 6. front cross member; 7. traverse (corner 32 × 32); parts 2,5,6 are made of 40 × 4 steel strip

In place, through the holes in the ears on the engine crankcase, holes were drilled in the brackets for M8 bolts, after which the arc was installed with the center side and tacked by welding to the middle cross member of the sled, the extreme cross members were brought under the arc, bent, and their middle was also driven out in place so that the crossbars are in contact with the arc along their entire width. Then the arc was attached to the crossbars by welding along the tangency lines, and the ends of the crossbars were welded to a guide rail made of an equal 40 mm steel angle.

Motor dimensions and mounting points

A bolt hole is drilled in the center of the vertical flange of the traverse, welded from above to the front ends of the rails. The bolt (M10) is also included in the front cross member of the frame and is designed to adjust the chain tension from the 1st gear stage. The skids move along the side members in the longitudinal grooves (there are four of them, two in each runner). The subframe is attached to the main frame through the grooves with four M10 bolts.

2 Ant-1. characteristics and features

Tiller Ant-1 (First) is intended for cultivating sandy and clay soil and preparing it for planting vegetables.

Also, with the help of the Ant, you can cultivate dry, loose soil.

  • engine model. BS170F / P;
  • engine power. h.p. 7;
  • number of speeds. 1 back and 2 forward;
  • fuel tank / crankcase volume. 3.6 l / 0.6 l;
  • transmission. chain belt;
  • plowing depth. 100-300 mm;
  • plowing width. 750 mm;
  • completeness from 4 to 6 cutters;
  • launch. manual;
  • wheel size. two wheels 4.00-8 “;
  • weight up to 90 kg.

Stages of assembling a tiller from a scooter

In order to assemble a tiller from a scooter, you need to disassemble the vehicle itself into its component parts. First of all, you need an engine, which must first be sorted out and put in order. Then a support frame is welded from a steel sheet with a thickness of about 4 mm and iron water pipes with a diameter of 40 mm, on which the engine is rigidly attached to three supports. After that, the carburetor, magneto, air filter and muffler are installed on the frame. To prevent the engine from overheating, a cover must be mounted above it, capable of providing forced cooling.

For a tiller from “Ant”, wheels from a scooter can be useful. They are wide enough to provide good traction. The chain drive is done with a drive that connects the motor to the shafts that have flanges that can be removed from the old combine. Gear selection can provide excellent shaft speeds, but the bottom case on the frame must be carefully dimensioned to allow the frame to reach the ground. The control is carried out using a metal telescopic tube that can be taken from a broken vacuum cleaner, which will allow you to adjust the height. The gearbox provides three positions, but only the first gear will be operational. Manual choke control.

2.2 Features

tiller Ant-1. one of the most popular chillers, equipped with a powerful four-stroke gasoline engine. The change in speed occurs smoothly without jerking with the help of the speed control lever, which is located under the thumb of the right hand.

When plowing or cultivating, trampling of the treated soil is excluded due to the rotation of the handle in the horizontal plane. The rubber of the wheels has a wide tread, which provides better grip on the ground. Operator safety is ensured by two protective fenders.

All tiller units are based on one frame. Frame design: two spars, the front and rear ends of which are bent upward, and the front. also counter and welded. To the rear ends, also by welding, a structure from the Izh motorcycle is attached. steering wheel with control levers. Side member material. steel water pipe (inch and a quarter).

DIY assembled tiller frame drawing

Tiller’s frame: 1. handlebar (from the Izh motorcycle); 2. bracket for fixing the instrument panel (corner 25 × 25); 3. platform and bracket for attaching the battery; 4. frame spar (pipe with a diameter of 32); 5. second stage chain drive housing; 6. sub-engine frame; 7. first stage power transmission chain tensioner (bolt M10); 8. chain tensioner stop; 9.strut (pipe with a diameter of 22); 10. bracket for connecting the cultivator subframe (milled channel No. 8); 11. bracket for connecting the transport trolley; 12-crossbar (strip 30×4,3 pcs.)

The longitudinal members are connected by several cross members. The front one. stop for the 1st stage chain tensioner. Some parts of the tiller also serve as crossbars. for example, a platform for a battery.

One of the frame components, the gear case, also serves as a strut between the power package and the chassis. A cultivator subframe or a two-axle trolley for transporting goods can be hooked up to the lower rear part of the crankcase.