Replacing a Circular Saw Disk
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Types of saw blades
All saw blades are divided into two types:
- Monolithic are made of solid metal and are distinguished by sharpened teeth. They are popular due to their affordable price, the possibility of recovery, that is, re-sharpening. On the other hand, monolithic products wear out faster.
- Carbide wheels for manual circular saw more reliable and durable, since on the teeth they are equipped with sharp solders made of cobalt or tungsten carbide. Due to the use of carbide materials, the products are more durable and reliable, however, if the disks become dull, it will not be easy to restore them.
The shape of the teeth matters!
Choosing disk for a saw, it is worth paying attention to the design features of the products, the location of the teeth, their shape:
- Straight, straight teeth are suitable for cutting chipboard, wood, plywood or aluminum;
- Alternating alternating teeth handle the sawing of soft and hard wood or plywood, as well as with transverse cutting;
- Disk for circular saw with trapezoidal teeth can be used when working with chipboard, soft non-ferrous metals, plastic. Due to the special shape of the teeth, the material is not split, and the cut itself is carried out in two stages. First a rough cut is performed, then the edges are trimmed;
- The teeth can have a positive or negative bias: the first is needed when sawing workpieces with thick, the second. With thin walls;
- Rare teeth with deep cavities between them provide a good longitudinal section of the wood, while sawdust is easily removed;
- Small, closely spaced teeth allow transverse cutting of materials. The most convenient among these species is disk for circular saw, each tooth which has a special protrusion at the back. Due to this design, cutting is quick and even.
Before choosing this or that disk, You need to solve a few issues for yourself.
Are the technical data consistent?
Every saw disk matched to a specific type circular saw. Therefore, when choosing, it is worth considering the power of its engine, the spindle speed, and the diameter of the landing pin. Disk for circular saw with a large number of revolutions and teeth with a negative angle of inclination will exert a large load on the engine. Therefore, you should definitely find out what the capabilities of your saw are. It is worth remembering that each saw has a landing diameter, and therefore disk must fit its size. The choice of a saw blade requires attention to such information as the series of the blade, its design and external size, the diameter of the bore hole.
How to replace disk on a hand circular saw
If you do not know how to replace disk on manual circular saw I suggest watching this. Replacement drive.
How to replace circular saw blade?
Learn how to change circular saw blade. Skil will show you how to change the saw disk in a few.
How will you cut it?
Saw disk for circular saw It is worth choosing taking into account the type of cut. It can be transverse or longitudinal. In addition, the materials you plan to saw play an important role. Wood, plastic, chipboard, non-ferrous metals, pipes. We note one thing. Each series of disks is designed specifically for certain types of work.
The quality of the blade blade directly affects the sawing efficiency. A good canvas is created by laser cutting, and balancing is done on a computer. Grinding of each disk is carried out separately. A high-quality cloth in the light will reflect traces of the grinding tool. If the canvas is rough and looks rough processed, such a saw disk for circular saw It will not ensure work efficiency and dull faster.
We take into account the diameter
Each saw has its own dimensions, and therefore the equipment for it must be chosen taking into account this parameter. The diameter of the discs is important, because if the diameters are different, this will lead to losses. So, the cutting depth depends on the outer diameter. Experts say that the cutting depth above the workpiece should be minimal: in this case, the cut will be better, the heating will decrease, and the load on the engine will be minimal. It is important that disk tightly fixed on the landing pin.
Count the teeth
Among the most popular tools in the arsenal of a home master is circular saw. Disk metal for it should be selected taking into account the number of teeth on which the speed and purity of cutting depends. If there are a lot of teeth, then the cut will be fine, however, the load on the engine will increase, and the chips will be harder to endure. With a small number of teeth, the cut is rough and rough, but the chips are easily removed, and the cut is faster. A large number of teeth is considered 80-90, a small. 10-40.
How to sharpen?
Like any other tool, saw Needs timely care. The most crucial moment. Sharpening disks for circular saw. Experts note that the carbide tooth wears out along the main upper except, and if massive workpieces are sawed, the side faces quickly wear out. Excessive blunting of the saw should not be allowed, as it will be less productive, and not the fact that it will be possible to sharpen the discs.
Proper sharpening involves ensuring the proper sharpness of the cutting edge. If you sharpen them on one front plane, then the number of sharpenings will be less. Many owners of such tools are interested in how to sharpen circular saw blade. And it depends on the material of the teeth. Sharpening is most often performed on a circle made of elbor or green carbide or based on diamond wheels. It is advisable to use Elbor wheels when sharpening saws made of high-speed steel, and diamond wheels for carbide cutters. For sharpening to be quick, but less affect the degree of wear, it is worth choosing diamond wheels with the greatest grit.
For sharpening, you can use machines that have different functionality. The most complex and expensive models are ways to provide automated sharpening. When sharpening, teeth should be bred: if this is done incorrectly, then during the cut there will be a burning smell, extraneous noise, and the material itself will move with jerks, which is not very convenient.
In general, the condition of the disks should be monitored constantly, since their wear will affect the increased load on the mechanisms and sooner or later lead to its complete failure. Thanks to regular sharpening, you can extend the life of the equipment, improve productivity and reduce the time for the cutting process itself. If after sharpening the cut remains sloppy, and the material moves unevenly, then more attention should be paid to the location of the teeth.
How to remove a disk from a circular saw?
To properly remove the canvas, you must adhere to the following sequence:
- For your own safety, be sure to disconnect the electrical cord from the network or remove the battery
- For easier replacement, install the tool on a flat, hard surface.
- To start unscrewing the bolt, it is necessary to press on the locking spindle, which blocks the rotation of the disk when unscrewing
- Unscrew the bolt using the special wrench provided
- Pull out the bolt and remove the pressure washer holding the saw blade
- Move the lower guide lever to raise the guard
- Remove the sawing circle
How to change a disk on a circular saw?
The new canvas must be installed in the following sequence:
- To clear a pulley and protection against the accumulated dirt, sawdust.
- Check the correct direction of the cutting teeth in accordance with the arrow on the guard.
- Place the web on the pulley and lower the lower guard.
- Install the washer and tighten the bolt. Tighten it again with the recessed locking spindle.
Circular saw washer?
The flange or pressure washer securely locks the disc. On various models of saws, a flange separate from the bolt is used, as well as a welded joint.
The main function of the pressure washer is to evenly press the saw blade to the pulley. A properly installed pressure washer should sit symmetrically in a circle.
The main and main rule when replacing a disk on a circular saw is to completely disconnect the tool from the power supply. In order not to accidentally cause injury with the teeth of a saw, it is better to use gloves.
The device and principle of operation of a circular saw
The hand-held circular saw differs from the miter saw in the absence of a bed with a rotary table, as well as the placement of the handle. But in general, both models are similar in internal structure, operation principle and do not differ in the complexity of the design. The following figure shows a hand-held circular saw.
The unit includes the following main elements.
- The upper protective casing having a hole for ejecting sawdust.
- The housing in which the electric motor and the start button are placed. Some saw models can run on battery power. In this case, the battery pack is also placed on the case.
- The lower (movable) protective cover, which automatically closes the cutting element after it leaves the workpiece.
- Saw blade. Fastens to a reducer shaft by means of a nut or a bolt.
- Parallel emphasis. Allows you to make an even cut without the use of additional devices.
- Base plate (sole) of the unit. Thanks to her, the tool is installed on the workpiece or tire at different angles.
- Depth adjuster. With it, you can adjust the reach of the saw blade relative to the base plate.
- Sole angle adjuster. Allows you to tilt the saw unit at an angle.
This tool works according to the following principle. Mains or battery power is supplied to the start button, which breaks the circuit. When you press the start key, current begins to flow to the electric motor. Below is given electrical circuit of the unit.
The electric motor starts and transmits rotational motion through the gearbox to saw blade. The unit is installed with the sole on the workpiece or guide rail, after which the process of both longitudinal and transverse sawing is performed.
Main malfunctions and their symptoms
Typical malfunctions of manual circulars include the following situations.
- The saw does not turn on. The mains cable, electrical plug, start button or electric brushes may be malfunctioning.
- The engine of the tool is very hot. Such symptoms may be the result of interturn closure (open circuit) in the coils of the armature or stator, as well as too intensive operation of the unit.
- The gearbox overheats. Overheating of this unit may occur due to failure of the bearing or lack of lubrication on the gears.
- Brushes sparkle. This usually occurs due to excessive wear.
- A burning ring is visible around the engine manifold. If during operation of the unit there is a circular spark around the engine manifold, then its appearance may cause a malfunction of the armature winding or clogging of the space between the collector lamellas with graphite dust.
- The unit does not develop the required power The power drop can be due to a voltage drop in the network, malfunction of the motor windings, wear of electric brushes, malfunction of the start button.
- During the operation of the unit, a rattle is heard and other extraneous sounds. These symptoms may be caused by gear teeth breaking or bearing failure.
- The engine is buzzing, but the unit is not working. A jam may have occurred in the gearbox.
Almost all the malfunctions of electric circular saws cannot be eliminated without dismantling the device partially or completely. Complete disassembly of a hand-held electric saw by the example of the Interskol unit is performed in the following order.
Remove the angle and depth adjusting screws secured to the bottom of the unit.
Next, you need to use two screwdrivers to remove the Sieger ring, which locks the rod on which the sole is rotated, to change the angle.
Insert a screwdriver into the slot between the shield body and the sole, then slide it and remove it.
Next, you must disconnect the unit gearbox by unscrewing 2 screws.
Removing one half of the handle, you will see soft start module and start button.
This completes the complete disassembly of the circular saw.
DIY Circular Saw Repair
Starting to repair the unit with your own hands, it is not necessary to disassemble it completely to find out the causes of the breakdown. Some malfunctions are characterized by specific symptoms, by which you can identify the problem and already purposefully disassemble one or another part of the device.
The saw does not turn on
If, when you press the start button, the unit engine is “silent”, then the first thing to focus on is network cable, provided that there is electricity in the outlet (to check, connect the device to another outlet).
To check the electrical cable, the handle must be disconnected. This will help get to the contacts to which the wires of the power cord are soldered. Next, using a tester, ring each wire, pressing one probe to the soldered contact, and the second to the plug pin.
If the network cable is intact, do the following to find the problem.
- Call the tester the entire circuit, from the cable entry into the unit to the start button. You should also check the contacts of the button on its input and output when the button is pressed. In normal condition, a broken circuit should close. Call all wires after the button, going to the engine brushes.
- If the conductors are okay, check how much worn brush electrodes. After electrode wear is 2/3 of its original size, it should be replaced. Brushes, regardless of how much each of them has worn out, change in pairs.
- If the brushes are in good condition, then most likely engine failed. In its windings, an open or interturn circuit could occur. In this case, it is better to entrust the engine repair to specialists who will rewind the stator coils or anchors.
The engine is warming up
The unit may overheat, for example, when its intensive use, as well as when sawing hardwood or using a saw blade with a large number of teeth, when the load on the engine increases significantly. The motor overheating also causes malfunctions associated with the stator windings and the armature, which are eliminated only in the service center.
Brushes are burning
Strong sparking from under the brushes is caused excessive wear, when the spring can no longer press the electrodes to the collector with the required force. To replace the brushes, you need to disconnect the engine cover or remove them through special holes in the motor housing (depending on the model of the saw).
Jammed shaft during operation
This problem may occur when for some reason the stopper is pressed while the tool is operating.. It is designed to fix the shaft when replacing equipment and should be used after the engine has stopped completely. Otherwise, the stopper rod breaks, and its debris enters the engine, causing jamming. There are frequent cases when this leads to deformation of the anchor shaft. Also, the result of pressing the stopper may be a split gear case, fragments of which can damage the gears and cause them to jam. To solve the problem, it will be necessary to replace the armature, stopper, drive (large) gear of the gearbox and its housing.
In some cases, the gearbox may jam when the bearing is completely destroyed.
The saw stops during operation
In most cases, an engine stop is caused by a cavity worn electric brushes. When the contact between the brush electrode and the collector lamellas is broken, the unit turns off.
Often when buying brushes for this unit come across products with short conductor connecting the electrode to the plate. This conductor is inside the spring and does not allow it to fully unclench. When the electrode wears out to a certain length, then its clamping to the collector stops, as this is prevented by a short conductor. If, while inspecting the brush, you find that it is not worn out yet and the spring does not open, then the part should be replaced.
Gearbox housing is hot
The gearbox will quickly heat up if the shaft bearing has fallen into disrepair, on which the gear is fixed and equipment is attached. In this case, in addition to heating, you can replace the appearance of extraneous noise in this unit of the device. It is necessary to disassemble the gearbox and change the bearing. Also, the gearbox will warm up if it not enough grease or she is completely absent.
Saw is not gaining power
If during use of the unit you notice a drop in its power, then it is recommended first check the voltage level in the network. Sometimes even a slight drop in it can negatively affect the power of the power tool.
Also, power loss can be observed when wear of bearings of the armature or gear bearing. In this case, extraneous noises that were previously not characteristic of this unit will be heard. By their localization, you can determine where the problem bearing is located. In the gearbox or motor. To replace the bearings, you will need to disassemble the circular saw. How to do this has been described above.
If during operation of the unit, extraneous noise is not heard, and the engine still develops poorly revs and power, then pay attention to its collector. Usually on it you can see a circular spark (ring of fire). This may occur due to interturn closure of the armature coil or accumulation of dirt between the collector lamellas.
Open the motor housing and carefully inspect the collector (the place on which the brush electrodes slide). It consists of parallel strips (lamellas). There is a small gap between them. When this gap clogs conductive graphite dust, formed during wear of the brushes, a short circuit occurs between the lamellas, and a burning ring appears around them.
The problem will be solved by replacing worn out brushes and cleaning the gaps between the lamellas with a toothbrush, cotton wool and alcohol, followed by polishing the plates with fine sandpaper.
In some cases, a power drop can cause a faulty start button. If the check with a tester confirmed its malfunction, then the part should be replaced with a new one, since it cannot be repaired.
Extraneous sounds appeared during operation
The rattle and other extraneous sounds may cause defective bearings or gears of the gearbox and shaft with worn or broken teeth. In the following figure, the arrow shows where the anchor gear is located.
The gear located on the motor shaft may slip when jamming saws in hard or loose wood. Typically, the gear wheel does not suffer. To eliminate this damage, you will have to completely change the engine armature. In the event of bearing breakdowns, it is easy to remove them with a puller and replace them with new ones.