Replacing the bearing of air conditioner compressor Golf 4

Table of Contents:

Where is the bearing and how does it work?

The air conditioner compressor is in a hinged position on the engine (5). On the compressor there is an electromagnetic clutch with a bearing inside.

The part itself is located in the pulley (1), which the outer cage in a fixed position. Rotation is by rolling of the inside of the cage.

Replacing the bearing of the clutch of the Volkswagen air conditioner compressor.

After the replacement work, the components should be installed in their original place in the car.

Dimensions of bearings for Volkswagen air conditioner compressor inside diameter and width Part numbers of bearings for Volkswagen air conditioner compressor by catalog original and analogues from Koyo, FKC, Alpha HQ, DYZV, NSK, NACHI, MCB, MBS, JB, BWT
30x55x23 30BD219V 5006-2NSL / 30 55 23 30BD40-A-T12DDF2CG01 / 30BG05S5G-2DS DAC3055.2RKCS4B / 30BD40-A-T12DDF2CG01 / 30BG5222-2DSECS20 DAC3052 / 30BD40DU 30BG05S5G-2DS / 30BD40T12DDUCG21 / 30BD40T12VVCG21 / 30BG05S2DS
35x52x22 35BD5222T1XDDUM2CG01 / DAC35520022 / ACB35x52x22 / 35BD5222T1XDDUM2CG01 / 35BD522DFX7 / 35BD5222DFX7 (101.006) / DAC35520022
40x57x24 40BD45T12DDU / 40BG05S1DS / 40BD45T12DDUCG21 / 40BD45T12VVCG21 / 40BD45T12VCG47 / 907257A 40BG05S2G-2DS / 40BG05S1G-2DS
40x66x24 2TS2-DF08A06 40BGS39G
  • In stock, there are always all the most common types of original bearings in all sizes by Newsun made in usa, Nsk, Fkc, Koyo and Nachi made in japan for replacement. and their analogues from famous manufacturers for Volkswagen Passat b5 b6, Golf 4 6, Polo, Bora, Jetta, Tiguan, Charan, Touareg, Transporter, etc. models, at the most reasonable prices.

In conclusion, completely check the work of all components of the design for leakage-free freon and charge the system Volkswagen auto air conditioner necessary amount of refrigerant according to the table of standards to the full volume, taking into account the model of your car.

VW MK4 AC Diagnosis and Compressor Clutch Replacement

Warning! if the ball bearing in the pulley is not replaced in time, it will cause more serious problems because of its warping and backlash;

  • There will be overheating and burning out of insulating varnish layer for protection of electric magnetic coil.
  • the pump components, pistons and valves, will be under increasing stress and could cause total destruction!

As a result you will not only have to replace the burnt clutch, rebuild all the components, with internal washing of the system, with partial or complete disassembly using special equipment, repair. replacement of the broken pump for a new one, but also change the receiver. filter dryer and radiator. condenser, and these activities are very expensive.

  • Your car Volkswagen Passat b5 b6, Golf 4 6, Polo, Bora, Jetta, Tiguan, Charan, Touareg, Transporter needs to have the bearing in the pulley of compressor of your AC system replaced with the new original one, with precise selection of dimensions in W-H and guarantee on works on minimal prices. call on our contact phone number.

Photo Report Replacing the Air Conditioner Clutch Bearing

I recently purchased a car: Golf3, with an engine 1.8ABS, ’93. The clutch bearing of the air conditioner compressor was buzzing terribly on it. This was the subject of quite a bit of bargaining. Decided to replace. 1: Before you start, you must remove the minus terminal of the battery to avoid short circuits when you remove the alternator; 2: Remove the filter housing and remove the filter element;

3: Remove alternator belt by pulling up tensioner. Unscrew retaining bolts of the generator. There are two (in the photo and another below)

4: Unscrew the bracket. It is held in place with 2 hex 8 socket head bolts:

replacing, bearing, conditioner, compressor, golf

Unscrewed the 2 compressor mounting bolts with a 16 head:

we pull out a compressor on top, having disconnected a muff connector, but not disconnecting hoses of cooling agent; 5: we unscrew nut of a muff the wrench (either on 13, or on 14. I do not remember ). To hold the coupling I used a wrench from an angle grinder inserted pins in the holes around the axis (it was just right):

6: To remove the inner part of the coupling from the axle, you need to screw in 3 bolts long approx. 70mm into the holes around the axle. You need to screw in one half turn at a time. Under the removed part on the compressor will be the outer retaining ring:

remove it with a special puller (I pulled it out with round pliers). Next, use a pulley puller to remove the pulley itself from the axle. The sub-ring will be in it under the inner retaining ring:

Pull out the circlip, knock out the bearing with a suitable tool (I used a head on the. I do not remember ). Screw in the new bearing. I put the old bearing on it and bang on it. Install the retaining ring and enjoy looking at it :

By the way! Not having an original bearing and our stores refusing to deliver one, I pressed two more accessible 61907-ZZ bearings into the sheave. They have the same diameter, but the width is twice as narrow:

7: Here is the assembly process. It is carried out in the reverse order. When assembling all threaded joints I treated with a special compound against spontaneous unscrewing OmniFIT:

SD7V16 made in japan original bearing mark NTN: 2TS2DF0719LX2 After bearing replacement, the machine is unrecognizable! Engine whispering Good luck!

  • One should check whether bearing noise depends on a condition of work of the compressor, whether the noise varies, if the conditioner is switched off. If so, you can very confidently consider the compressor bearing to be the cause of the noise
  • You can also check the play in the pulley, turn it by hand, play should not be, if there is at least minimal play, the bearing should be replaced
  • If the air conditioner compressor is located on the engine in an accessible place, you can hear exactly the source of noise

So, we have defined the source of noise. it is the bearing of the muff of the air conditioner compressor and it must be replaced.

For bearing replacement it is enough to remove only compressor muff, in this case there is no depressurization of the system and it is not necessary to recharge it. But, often, the compressor is located in a place where it is impossible to reach with a puller, in which case you have to remove the wheel, bumper or compressor itself, there is no matter what is more convenient to your mind or what is cheaper in terms of cost of repairs. After removing the compressor, we remove the clutch:

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Repair of air conditioner compressor clutch on Volkswagen Golf 4 (SD7V16 1J0 820 803 A)

xxgxx

The Master Adviser

Good afternoon. Decided to share my experience since I did not find a network on this model. I have a VW Golf 4 1.8T AGU with non working air conditioner. Diagnosis with a tester revealed that the resistance of the electromagnetic clutch is 0 and when forced to power the clutch does not work. The situation is that the car is not yet needed and it stands. I’ve decided to try to reanimate the clutch and if not, then look for used ones at salvage yards. I will not describe how to remove the clutch, because many times described how to replace the bearing of the air conditioner compressor, and this is the same. I think that this type of repair will do everything, because inside the winding can not burn out because there all poured very well))

After removing the bearing, there is another retaining ring which holds the clutch, after removing the latter you need to unscrew the two tapping screws that hold the wire and now you have the clutch in your hands.

Gently knock down the protective layer, be sure to 45 degrees so as not to cut the wire if you hit at 90 degrees.

About opposite of the connector is a type of thermostat, a steel wire with a smaller cross section, that’s what burns out.

I decided to remove the entire shield, but you can not remove it, but only from the beginning to the end of the connection wire. After the ends were exposed, check the integrity of the winding inside by multimeter probing from the connector to the end of the winding. If both ends are ringing, all is well and all is intact inside. We need to wire both ends with copper wire, I only found the same cross section, I didn’t want to go somewhere in the store, that’s why I found at home.

After soldering, check the resistance, I had about 60 ohms, I had set the multimeter to 200 ohms and it showed 06.1. For greater certainty and understanding of the principle of this clutch connected to a power 12 and oh well it works))))

I didn’t pour it all back on, because it was filled with a lot of crap, I just used some new wire with a torque and that’s all. Thought it would be better cooled))))

replacing, bearing, conditioner, compressor, golf

The cause of overheating, in my version, were clogged air ducts, which are on the metal part of the.

All these channels were clogged with some kind of slag, I do not know what. Cleaned and washed everything. Reinstalled clutch engages and compressor cranks. Everything worked out. All thanks for your attention. I think someone will help))))

How to remove the air conditioning compressor Golf 4

The brackets of the air conditioner compressor can be removed and installed without opening the refrigerant circuit. During the repair work, the compressor can be removed and hung up in the engine compartment without disconnecting the hoses.

The compressor of the air conditioner on cars with 1,6 / 1,8-I engines

  • 1. Poly-V belt tension pulley;
  • 2. alternator
  • 3. bracket of air conditioner compressor, generator and servo pump;
  • 4. hexagon socket head screw M10x55, 50 Nm;
  • 5. servo pump;
  • 6. compressor;
  • 7. bolt M10x112, 45 Nm

A/C compressor in cars with 2,3-I engines

  • 1. poly-V-belt;
  • 2. generator;
  • 6. bolts M8x30, 25 Nm;
  • 4. washer;
  • 5. bolt M8õ27, 25 Nm;
  • 6. compressor bracket;
  • 7. servo pump;
  • 8. compressor;
  • 9. electromagnetic clutch;
  • 10. bolt M10x112, 45 Nm

Air conditioner compressor in cars with 1,4-I engines

  • 1. cylinder block;
  • 2. air conditioner compressor, generator and servo pump bracket;
  • 3. bolt M10x85, 50 Nm;
  • 4. bolt M10x55, 50 Nm;
  • 5. compressor;
  • 6. bolt M10x112, 45 Nm;
  • 7. shoulder nut, 10 Nm;
  • 8. bracket for power steering discharge pipe;
  • 9. bolt M10x112, 45 Nm

Air conditioner compressor on vehicles with 1.9-I diesel engines

  • 1. compressor bracket, high pressure fuel pump, alternator and servo pump;
  • 2. high pressure fuel pump;
  • 3. servo pump;
  • 4. bolt M10x65, 45 Nm;
  • 5. bolt M10x45, 45 Nm;
  • 6. compressor;
  • 7. bolt M10x112, 45 Nm;
  • 8. diverter roller, 25 Nm;
  • 9. alternator;
  • 10. poly-V belt

Skoda Octavia Tour Air Conditioner Compressor

Eliminate the noise from under the hood by replacing the bearing.

Continuing to get rid of extraneous noise from under the hood. When removing the belt and replacing the tensioner pulley I found a play of air conditioning compressor pulley. it’s time to change! I ordered the bearing NSK 35BD219T12DDUCG21 for 530.

Alternator bearing replacement, brushes and a little bit about replacing.

Skoda Octavia White friend matryoshkamobil › › Replacing the alternator bearings, brushes and a little about replacing the compressor bearing

air conditioner compressor replaced.Looking for service.All wanted to change it with removal and at a cost of about a third.

Air conditioner compressor bearing replacement. Skoda.

Skoda Superb 1. 8 tsi Elegance › › Compressor bearing replacement

Recently, began to progress howling air conditioner compressor bearing.

The compressor on my son’s Octavia A7 is dead. Bought at a salvage yard for 3500r from a car with mileage.

AC compressor pulley bearing replacement.

So change it is with bamax we got to a bearing of air conditioner compressor pulley. Again, changed the same on two machines 🙂 also give a link 🙂 replacement of the pulley bearing (electro-magnetic clutch) air conditioner compressor. engine 1.

Replacing the air conditioner compressor bearing Skoda A5

Hi all! My car is equipped with an air conditioner compressor from Denso, catalog number 1 KO 820 859 T. Compressor was working fine, no complaints to it before.

Bearing replacement. air conditioner compressor pulley.

Hi all. The noise came from the compressor. I went to a dealer and found the compressor malfunction and called the amount of compressor replacement 100k.After hearing the amount decided to try to deal with the problem myself.

Air conditioner bearing replacement and other. Skoda Octavia.

Skoda Octavia 1. 8 TSI TRANSMISSION › › Replacing the air conditioner bearing and more.

All work, except for replacing the breakaway clutch is the same. Had a howling air conditioner. If

They are there apparently counting with the removal of the compressor and other services to the sucker))) All.

Air conditioner compressor bearing replacement.

In March, there was an unexpected hum in the belts area. There were several options. Bought an alternator tensioner bearing beforehand. About 3 weeks ago I decided to remove the source of noise. Took the alternator belt off.

Air conditioner compressor bearing replacement. Skoda.

Greetings, all ! This is a story about the AC compressor bearing that suddenly made a noise and how I saved money on replacing it. After figuring out the source of the noise, a bearing was found in stock at Bosch service in Peredelkino.

We cure one and cure the other, repair of compressor clutch.

Owner review of Skoda Octavia Mk1. with our own hands. The muff of the air conditioner compressor malfunctioned.

You can take it off without them, but it’s better to put it back on with them. The bearing is already in the NSK 35BD219 (35X55X20) to replace the old one, but it does not play, but it rustles a little.

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Replacing the bearing of air conditioner clutch. Skoda Octavia.

One morning, closing the garage door, I heard an unhealthy rustling noise from under the hood of the car. Only the bearing could make such a sound. But I did not know what it was at first. Later, when I changed the oil, I found out that it was the bearing noise of the air conditioner compressor clutch.

Compressor pulley bearing. Skoda Octavia Scout.

When replacing the tensioner pulley I felt the play in the compressor clutch. Bearing died. Not much noise or squeaking. Occasionally there was a murmuring noise. Climate control was working as usual.

Air conditioner compressor pulley bearing replacement.

Hi all. The other day, almost added gray hair, the reason for that extraneous sound (rustling) from under the hood. At first the noise was minor, barely perceptible, but it bothered me, I asked my wife, she said she could not hear anything and I was picking on the car.

Air Conditioner Compressor Bearing Replacement.

The problem is known, the sound was not particularly bothersome, but it was and I did not bother, but thanks to my neighbor who works at the offsto VW and who scared the consequences and said that only replacement of the compressor as a whole.

Skoda Octavia / Volkswagen Golf / Audi A1 / A3 / Q3.Repair.

An air conditioning compressor for Skoda Octavia Denso 6SEU14C compressor was sent to our technical center for repair, which is also applied to the following cars: Tech.compressor model parameters : Our inside number of this compressor is EPK2503 Compressor was installed on.

Air conditioner compressor pulley bearing replacement.

The alternator and air conditioner pulley and belt were recently replaced. because there was an unexplained whistling noise when the car was warm! After replacing the whistle remained, as it turned out later was the bearing of the air conditioning compressor pulley.

Bearing replacement of air conditioner pulley. Skoda Yeti.

Skoda Yeti experiment › › bearing replacement air conditioner pulley.

Turned the air conditioner off, but the hum was gone. Then, opening the hood, I noticed a splash of grease

And after taking off the belt ascertained that the play of the compressor pulley.

Air Conditioner Bearing Replacement. Skoda Octavia.

Owner’s review of Skoda Octavia Mk1. with my own hands. One fine morning, there was an incomprehensible rustling noise from under the hood. Opened the hood first thing that came to mind was the alternator bearings. I took off the alternator, replaced the bearings and brushes with.

AC Compressor Bearing Replacement. Octavia A5. Skoda.

Hello all. Recently the bearings in the air conditioner compressor were replaced. The old one had a lot of play. I took the following bearing: SNR ACB35X52X22. Everything is not complicated, but you need to take your time. We were in a hurry) Raz.I tried to remove the clutch, but I forgot to put the washer back on.

Groundhog Day: air conditioner bearing replacement. Skoda Octavia.

Owner’s review of Skoda Octavia Mk3. failure. than a year ago at the mileage of 51000 km, I replaced the bearing of the compressor of the air conditioner because of the hum. Read more here. That time the hum appeared after a heavy downpour that didn’t stop for a day. But the car was standing.

Front left door

Compatibility: Chrysler 300C Audi 100 (80) A2 A3 A4 (B5 b6 b7 b8) A5 A6 (C4 c5 c6 D2 D3 D4) A8 Allroad Q5 Q7 BMW 1 (e87) 3 (e36 e46 e90 e92) 5 (e34 e39 e60) 6 e63 7 (e38 e65 f01) x3 x5 (e53 e70 e83) Chevrolet Aveo T200 t300 T250 Focus Capticva Cruze Epica Lacetti Matiz Orlando Spark Citroen Berlingo Jumper c1 c2 c3 c4 c5 x7 Grand Picasso C8 Xsara DAEWOO Lanos Rezzo Dodge Caliber Caravan Neon Ram Stratus Fiat Bravo Doblo Ducato Grande Punto Panda Ford C- max Coguar EcoSport Escape Escort F-150 Fiesta Focus 2 Fusion Galaxy Ka Kuga Maverick Mondeo 4 Ranger Scorpio S-Max Transit Honda Accord 8 Civic 4d 5d CR-V CR- V Element Fit HRV Jazz Legend Odyssey Logo Pilot Shuttle Hyundai Accent Elantra Getz i30 i20 ix35 Ford Matrix Santa Fe Sonata NF Starex H1 Terracan Trajet Tucson Infiniti EX35 FX35 G35 QX4 QX56 Jaguar S-type X-type Jeep Grand Cherokee Compass Liberty Kia Carnival Ceed Cerato Magentis Optima RIO Picanto Sorento Soul Sportage Lexus ES GS iS RX Mazda BK Bl GG BM GH GJ 323 CX-5 CX-7 Cx- 9 Demio MPV Tribute Mercedes w202 w168 w245 w204 w215 w209 w210 w211 x164 x204 w163 w164 w220 w221 Sprinter Vito w638 w639 Mitsubishi Carisma ASX Colt Lancer 9 10 Galant L200 Outlander XL Pajero Sport Nissan Almera Nissan N15 n16 Altima Juke Maxima A33 Micra K12 k11 Murano Navara Patrol Primera P11 P12 Qashkai Teana Tiida Note X-Trail T30 T31 Opel Astra G H F J Combo Corsa B C D Frontera A Insignia Meriva Omega Vectra Zafira Peugeot 107 206 207 307 308 407 406 508 5008 Boxer Partner 607 Renault Clio Duster Espace Kangoo Koleos Laguna Megane Grand Scenic Symbol Vel Satis Skoda Fabia Felicia Octavia Tour A5 A4 A7 Rapid Suberb Yeti Subaru Forester Impreza SG Legacy Tribeca Bl Outback Suzuki Alto Baleno Grand Vitara Ignis Jimny Swift Sx4 Wagon R Splash Toyota Auris e120 e150 Corolla Avensis Verso Camry V30 V40 Carina E Megane Prius Rav-4 Rav4 Highlander Hilux Yaris Tundra Sequia Volkswagen Beetle Bora Golf Plus Jetta Lupo b3 Passat b4 b5 b6 Polo CC b7 Sharan Tiguan Tuareg Touran Transporter Volvo S40 S60 S80 XC90

1) headlight left right bumper front rear TV grille hood mirror door lamp 14 days

2) spar right quarter sill left side sill body roof radiator air conditioning compressor 7 days

To identify the car and reliable selection of a compressor air conditioner Škoda Octavia 1U 1U2 Hatchback, you should carefully select the modification of the vehicle. For this purpose please use the data specifying: power in horsepower (example 103 hp), engine displacement (example 1,6 liter), engine type (petrol, etc.), engine displacement (example 1,5 lb.с.), engine displacement (example 1.6 liter), type (example gasoline) and model engine code, as a rule, this parameter is rarely used, but you can find it only in the certificate of registration, you can also pay attention to the axle drive (may be rear, front or full), well and the mandatory parameter release date, divides the model t / c on restyling, before restyling, first and last year of production.

This data serves to uniqueize the installed parts at a certain period of production, since the manufacturers are constantly upgrading cars from the assembly line.

#1 OFFLINE Ozulai

Reworking the air conditioning compressor, some questions came up

What is that green oily stuff (clearly not Freon=) tell me more about it, it seems to be a leak detection toner (and a lubricant at that. ) Can I grease the thrust and needle bearings inside with heather or castrol lmh, or get some green stuff=) What happens if the pulley bearing jams. (you can guess, but you want to hear who had it happen.) I read that if I take the compressor apart, I have to change all the gaskets or there is no way to seal it Can I use gasket sealant.

Attached images

#2 OFFLINE KOTYARA

Reassembling A/C compressor, some questions came up

What is that green oily stuff (clearly not Freon=) tell me more about it, like it’s a leak detection toner (and a lubricant at that. ) Can the support and thrust needle bearings inside grease heather or castrol lmh, or get the green stuff =) What happens if the pulley bearing jams. (I can guess, but I want to hear from someone who has had this happen.) I read that if you disassemble the compressor, you have to change all the gaskets, otherwise there is no way to seal it Can you use gasket sealant.

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Adjustment and repair of injection KE-Jetronik 8-952-368-51-41

#3 OFFLINE Spot

[quote=Ozulai date=18.7.2011, 22:05 post=1146928]I’m rebuilding an air conditioner compressor and have questions

What is that green oily stuff (obviously not freon=) tell me more about it, it’s like a leak detection toner (and a lubricant at that. )!!Is it oil and dye?Do you know if you can grease thrust and axial needle bearings with heather or castrol lmh, or get some green stuff=)!!You don’t need any other crap in there, everything inside is lubricated with oil. What happens if the pulley bearing jams. (You can guess, but I want to hear from someone who has had this happen.). Belt will burn out, compressor front cover shaft journals will bend, eat up. I read that if I disassemble the compressor, I have to change all the rubber gaskets, otherwise there is no way to seal it Can I use gasket sealant. absolutely right-necessary other rubbers, repair kit at least in moscow can be found.Sealants to the fire.

W124 2.3 automatic transmission 1991 was, and now with 111.960 and automatic transmission 722.408. Answering questions about swap.Запчасти к 124 седану и универсалуФото запчастей к 124 7 903 749 20 35

#4 OFFLINE Ozulai

Blur Why do not use sealants =) Maybe better on the joints=)

Put old gaskets (they didn’t break, they didn’t splinter, they kept their elasticity) with sealant.

Good day. Decided to share my experience since I didn’t find any on the net for this particular model. I have a golf 4 1.8T AGU with non working air conditioner. Diagnosis tester showed that the resistance of the electromagnetic clutch is 0 and when forcibly powered clutch does not work. The situation is that the car is not required so far and it stands. It was decided to try to resuscitate the clutch and if not, to look for used ones at salvage yards. I will not describe how to remove the clutch, as many times described how to replace the bearing of the air conditioner compressor, and this is the same. I think this type of repair will do everything, since the inside of the winding can not burn out because there is a very good primer))

After removing the bearing, there is another retaining ring which keeps the clutch, after removing the latter need to unscrew the two screws that hold the wire and here clutch in your hands.

Gently knock down a protective layer, be sure at 45 degrees that suddenly would not cut off a wire if you hit at 90 degrees.

Approximately opposite the connector will be a type of thermistor, a steel wire with a smaller cross section, and it burns out.

I decided to remove the entire protective layer, but you can not remove it, but only from the beginning to the end of the connection wire. After the ends are exposed, check the integrity of the winding inside by using a multimeter probe from the connector to the end of the winding. If both ends are ringing, then all gud and inside everything is intact. We need to save both ends with copper wire, I found only the same section, I did not want to go somewhere in the store, so I found at home.

After soldering check the resistance, I had about 6 ohms, put on a multimeter 200 ohms and it showed 06.1. For greater certainty and understanding of the principle of this clutch connected to a power 12 and oh well, the miracle of magnetism)))

did not pour everything back, because tat all poured from the soul, only a new wire filled with some momentum and all. Thought it would be better to cool))))

The cause of overheating, in my version, were clogged air ducts that are on the metal part.

All of these channels were clogged with some kind of slag, I did not understand what. Cleaned and washed everything. Reinstalled clutch engages and compressor cranks. It worked. Thank you all for your kind attention. I think someone can help))))

Photo report Repair of air conditioner, replacement of control unit of Golf 4 fans

Repair of air conditioner, replacement of control unit of fans

I decided to write a small report on the search of malfunction in the work of the air conditioner and replace related units and assemblies, maybe someone will find it useful.

One beautiful sunny day I turned on the air conditioner (it is air conditioning, not climate) and found that instead of cool air blowing like a blast furnace, which threw me into despondency and made me try to figure out what was wrong this time.

So, on the cabin side: when you turn on the button AC on a running car, it lights up, clicks, rpm drops as usual, but no cold. Underhood side: Fans don’t start, muff does not work, air conditioner piping is hot.

Check all the fuses, responsible for ventilation and air conditioning, both in the main unit and in a block over the battery (if a fuse died in a block over the battery, the button does not light up and the engine does not work, so once was the case) all normal.

Checking the operation of both fans when the engine overheated showed that one fan, the big one, would not turn. If you turn it by hand, the impeller rotates with a wild grinding, then after a trip to the electrician, testing revealed that the winding is also dead. Here is the original. part number 6X0959455A, replaced with Febi (2980 ). Changed is simple enough, unscrewing the 3 screws on the radiator and shifting the mount from the old to the new fan. If you will change, when you screw the screws back, constantly scroll the fan by hand so it does not catch the radiator and level the mounts to a full tightening, no grinding and snarls should not be. The fan replacement did not revive the unit, when the engine overheated both fans are running at both speeds, which is better than before

replacing, bearing, conditioner, compressor, golf

Found el. schematic https://vwts.ru/electro/g4/g4_cond_man_rus.jpg of the whole ventilation system and to the electrician. Check the pressure in the air conditioning system is normal, check the clutch is normal, check all the wires is normal.

We have artificially switched the clutch and here it is a miracle, the cold air blows, there is only one thing left to blame on the block of control of air conditioner fans, here is its orig. part number 1j0919506k (non-original Hans Pries 2380)

Actually change, this unit, which is located under the pad battery: Disconnect terminals accum, remove the fuse box, take apart a casing accum and unscrew one screw that holds the battery and take out the accum

unscrew the 4 bolts that fix the plastic pad under the battery and remove the pad itself

unscrew 2 bolts in the near left corner of the metal platform, which secure the block (photo from the fender)

we remove the block from under the metal platform, pull out 2 connectors and replace the block

We check the work of the condo and fans (we need a cigarette lighter to the battery) assemble everything in reverse order and enjoy the refreshing coolness in the cabin