riving knife for circular saw by hands


Power, blade diameter, kerf depth. The key characteristic of the circular saw is the blade’s outer diameter. This parameter defines the maximum cutting depth and is also influenced by rotational speed and motor power (and therefore the weight of the construction). The thickness of the cutting attachment also plays an important role. A number of models are equipped with a thin profile blade. It experiences less resistance to the material, which allows you to install a less powerful motor.

Few saws have electronic speed control, because this option is rarely used (when cutting non-timber materials).

Soft start system is designed to smooth out inrush currents that can overload the mains. Also provides smooth cranking of the blade, i.e., no jerk when starting.

Frequency stabilization system keeps blade speed up even when the tool is under load. Thermal protection of the motor will reduce the power and then shut down the motor if its windings become too hot.

Electronic brake. Some models are equipped with an electronic brake that noticeably reduces the time required for the disc to run out after it has been switched off.

Parallel stop

Makes cutting in a straight line easier. Almost every circular saw comes with this simple accessory. It guides the tool along an edge and thus facilitates a straight cut. You don’t even have to draw a line. It doesn’t guarantee a perfectly straight line but it helps a lot in some cases. As an example, the splitting of boards into slats or bars.


Hi all. Continuing the theme of completing the workshop. Workbench, part one. Today I will tell.

Everyone. hi ! I have been asked many times about dust extraction in the workshop, and now I am finally going to cover the topic.

Continuing the circular saw theme. After publishing the last article, I was asked a question about a homemade ruler. Essentially.

Re-posting the article from 18.02.16 which was accidentally deleted 🙁 All. hi 🙂 ! I recently received a question from Victor Ivanov: D.

Sunday, November 27, 2016.

Hi all. I have already posted a few videos about my experiments with building a simple circular saw. In the first version, the donor for the saw was a Chinese, 500 watt tile cutter:

= I also showed a saw built around a 250 watt, 1440 rpm, 3-phase motor with a V-belt overdrive gear, allowing for 3100 rpm on the spindle. : Circular saw. angle grinder. sharpening machine. I promised to continue the topic, and now I will again talk about a saw based on a tile cutter. The other day I was in correspondence with one of my audience, and we were discussing a similar machine. Actually this was the impetus for writing this article 🙂 And so let’s begin. First of all I want to clearly define the target niche of this device. As it is possible to understand, the induction motor, capacity 500-700 (Chinese watts) can’t brag of the outstanding characteristics, and accordingly to cut sleepers on similar saw can’t turn out. It is a machine for light DIY jobs in softwood, plywood, chipboard and particleboard. Although the design allows the use of a saw blade with a diameter of 200. 210 mm. get the depth of cut ~ 40. 45 mm, the real working depth, at which the load on the engine will not be extreme. for this machine would be. 30. 35 mm in diameter. The main target niche for such a machine would be a “hobby” niche. This machine can find a place in the “balcony workshop” (especially taking into account the low noise of the asynchronous motor), and in the workshop of “young technician”, it will also be useful to a novice carpenter. Now closer to the point. I will tell you about my machine, but other tile cutters may have design differences and this should be taken into account. There are 2 tile cutters in my workshop. On the first one, which I showed in the first video, I just put a saw blade and redid the cover by adding a nozzle for a vacuum cleaner. I also made a new guide bar. This is the end of all alterations. But for a good circular saw it is very important to have a depth control. So I decided to remake my second tile cutter. The design of this tile cutter does not have a box metal body (like the first tile cutter), the motor is mounted on a tubular frame, so it was much easier for me to redo it.

Height (cutting depth) adjustment. is performed by lifting the motor plate and fixing the position. with bolt 6 having an extended handle.

There is a handle 1 attached to the plate 3, which allows you to move the saw more conveniently and accurately.

To simplify the construction of the machine I didn’t use metal.

For the frame and brackets (2) I used chipboard and 18 mm plywood. Of course, it could be done in an even simpler way. To make a tilting (on a hinge) or lifting table (on parallel rails). But these designs have many disadvantages, and one of the main ones is. they are not very convenient in work. So in this model the table is rigidly mounted (Fig.2) on 4 uprights (one. large longitudinal, with a hole to access the saw’s mounting nut and 3. transversal). The table is made of 10 mm plywood, trimmed the perimeter (bottom) plywood frame, width 40 mm, and attached to the studs with 5 screws (for quick assembly and disassembly).

Fig. 2 Table and rack for table mounting.

Because of the low motor power of the tile cutter and for safety reasons a riving knife should be fitted. Construction of riving knife Fig. 3 quite simple.

Fig. 3 riving knife.

It is a plate with 2 symmetrical chamfers on the saw blade side and is located behind the saw blade. Thickness of riving knife exceeds kerf by several tenths of a mm. riving knife (2) is mounted on the plate, on which the motor is mounted, through the spacer (1) and fixed with two screws M6 (4) through the plate (3). Two screws make it possible to adjust the position of the blade in respect to the plane of the saw blade. Adjustment is made by inserting spacer plates between the spacer and the riving knife.

Handmade ruler, of simple construction, is set on the table Fig.4. Ruler. The guide rail is easy to make and makes fairly precise parallel cuts. About the types of rulers (simple and complex) I have already told in my Simple Ruler for Circular Saw Ruler with Eccentric Clamp and my articles: Ruler for the circular saw. From simple to complex

How to make a guide template with your own hands?

The guide rail for circular saw. it can be made by sawing a straight sheet of wood chipboard from the available means by yourself.

When it is necessary to make long cuts with such a saw, it will be necessary to spend quite a lot of time to make all the measurements necessary to set the guide in relation to the marking line in exact accordance with the width of the base of the structure.

To simplify this procedure, it is necessary to saw a template out of fiberboard, which is equal in width to the distance from the outermost part of the tool base to the inner edge of the saw blade. Next, the template is cut to the length of the tool base. To use the template, you must align its edge with the kerf mark in the workpiece, and to the other side attach a straight guide and secure it with a clamp.

Then repeat this procedure on the second kerf of the workpiece to be sawn from the other side. Such templates can be made for a circular saw or an electric jigsaw.

Arrangement of guides for different types of saws

Saw blades and fittings. 1) Saw blade. 2) Sharpened tooth. 4) Sharpening fixture. 5) Working table for sharpening saws. 6-7-8) File directions, relation to the work table and saw teeth to be sharpened. 9). a fishing line for the trimmer to bend the teeth at parting.

The cross-cutting saw blade guide is one of the simplest and most commonly used attachments. It enables you to cut long workpieces at 90° and 45° angles rather quickly. The base of the stop is made of textolite, which has a thickness of 4-5 mm. You can also use 9-10 mm plywood. The 2 x 2 cm bars for the support can be made of oak or beech. Connect the timber to the saw bed with screws that have countersunk heads. It is important to make a 90° and 45° angle between the skirting boards. If there is a need such supports can also be made for other cutting angles.

If you need to cut a large number of identical bars, you need to make a U-shaped construction. It is pressed on the bars to be trimmed as a “saddle”. This device consists of 3 parts: the back and two side parts. The back is made from a piece of board, which has a thickness of 23-25 mm and a width equal to the cross section of the bar. The sides are made of textolite or plywood. Width of the side pieces must be so wide that the edge of the saw blade can be supported before the saw blade enters the wood of the block.

It is possible to accurately cut thick bars in two cuts from different sides without having to remove the stop.

It is also possible to make an edge stop, but you should know that it takes quite a long time to make. Due to the longer length of the support lip, the guide will be able to provide a flatter cut than the designs that come with the saw. The base of the support and support strip is cut from plywood, which has a thickness of 13-15 mm. In the base you select the slots for guide keys, then you make holes for saw blade and a through slot for a screw for clamping. To make the edges of the support strip, dowels, saw mounting rails, you need to use hardwood. The glue joints of dowels, edging to the support strip and the rail fixing the tool to the base are recommended to be reinforced with small countersunk screws.

riving, knife, circular, hands

It is not difficult to make fixtures for the circular saw yourself, for this you need a minimum set of materials. It is not recommended to use the constructions that come with the saw.


  • DIY for Dacha6.94
  • The trash in the case5.72
  • Home, furniture, interior.4.60
  • Beauty ! (decorations, decoupage. )4.52
  • Auto crafts3.39
  • For computer and internet2.31
  • DIY for hooligans2.26
  • Paper1.14
  • DIY for fishing and hunting1.14
  • Recipes. Cooking by Ourselves1.13
  • Gifts, souvenirs and handicrafts1.13
  • DIY books0.00
  • Photos and ideas of homemade crafts0.00
  • Tools, materials, secrets of craftsmen.0.00
  • For all occasions.0.00

TOP homemade crafts for the month

The sawdust protector for circular saws is very useful when you work on a circular saw and sawdust is flying in the face and over the entire area is very annoying.

I suggest to see how you can make a protection for the circular table with your own hands.

I will say that it is not a perfect design, but the task of protecting the person working on the saw and reduce the scattering of sawdust copes. At the same time, the screen is the simplest t.к. I have seen where plywood is used instead. But the plywood is not transparent and it is not as easy to clean as mine.

The whole construction is made of available materials.

The protection works like this: sawdust from the saw disk goes either to the center of the bottle or to the curved walls and falls on the table. The spreading area is drastically reduced. It is more convenient to work with and easier to remove sawdust.

How to make protection from sawdust for circular saws told in the following video, if you have any questions ask, but I think it’s simple.

A circular saw is required in private households quite often, but it is not necessary to buy an expensive tool for this purpose at all. You can make a circular saw with your own hands from improvised materials.

Basic materials and tools

To create a circular saw will require materials:

You can’t do without tools and materials in the job:

  • jigsaw;
  • turbine;
  • electric screwdriver;
  • screwdriver;
  • duct tape;
  • hammer;
  • wire cutters;
  • pliers;
  • tape measure and a triangular ruler.

Safety devices on a circular saw woodworking machine

When cutting boards along the fibers, the teeth of the circular saw, coming out from under the table, can lift the board up and throw it away from the worker with great force. To avoid this, it is necessary to wedge the board to be cut or to prevent the teeth at the back of the circular saw from touching the two sides of the board to be sawn.

This can be achieved by mounting a sword or sickle-shaped riving knife behind the circular saw. The riving knife is 10 % thicker on the outside than the width of the cut. Gradually the blade becomes thinner towards the inside, t. е. in the direction of the circular saw teeth. This shape of the riving knife ensures that the material to be sawn is riving and prevents it from being thrown backwards.

The shape and dimensions of the riving knife must match the diameter of the circular saw, its height above the table, as well as the cutting width. The riving knife must be mounted so that it can be moved quickly and easily in horizontal and vertical directions. The blade should be no more than 10 mm away from the saw’s teeth. The height of the blade from its lower edge must be 10 mm higher than the circular saw.

Upper guard of circular saw serves for protection of worker’s hands against collision with saw teeth above machine table.

Very practical and reliable is the Simson fence shown in Fig. 29.

The tube 3 is mounted on the stand (not shown in the picture) and can move vertically and set the fence at the appropriate height. In the tube 3 is seated roller 5, which can move horizontally. It is secured by cage 4. The guard 6 encloses the upper part of the circular saw. To the front part of the cover the arm is suspended on which the roller 8 can move when the sectors 9 protect the working teeth of the saw are engaged. The rear part of the blade (the teeth that are not in use) is encircled by two sectors 1. During operation, the front edge of the part presses on the lever 7 which, rising, takes by its bent end the roller 8 being between the front sectors 9.

As the workpiece is feed, the roller 8 rolls up on the lever 7 and the front sectors 9 smoothly and easily lift up, opening the teeth of the circular saw to the height corresponding to the thickness of the workpiece to be sawed. Rear sectors 1 have teeth at the bottom, which prevents the workpiece to be sawn from being thrown backwards.

The lower guard of the circular saw is an intake (see Fig. 4). Fig. 1), removing sawdust. It protects the lower part of the circular saw (under the table).

If no extractor hood is available, e.g. in the case of temporary installation, a sheet steel fence protects the circular saw from below. Circular saws can be removed for sawing and exchanging. Appropriate hole is left in the lower part of the fence to remove sawdust from under the working saw.

About the frame components

Circular saw fixtures are various. The base is the base. If power of the saw is insignificant (no more than 1,2 kW), it is not difficult to construct such base independently. Its length is influenced by the length of the material to be sawed.

For the drive it is suitable to use the electric drill “Bosch”, its parameter is 0,85 kW. It is mounted under the plate with a special bracket.

Accuracy and smoothness of the cut is better when the workpiece rests entirely on the surface of the table. And if the table is too large, it will fill the entire work area. Here you need an average value. The height is selected according to your height, so it was more convenient to work.

Advantages of homemade rails

An important advantage of working with such a device is the possibility of processing blanks of any size. You just need to remember about the reliable fixation of the crosscutting tool, because it provides a quality result and guarantees safety.

You can buy a prefabricated guide bar in a store. This is the easiest and most expensive option. After all, the cost of a branded device often almost equals the price of the circular saw. Therefore, it is better to make a guide for a circular saw with your own hands.

Homemade guide rail for Interskol, Makita, Bosch manual circular saws is no worse in functionality than a factory-made one, but several times cheaper. It is easy to assemble at home. There are several options for making homemade bars, using different starting materials:

The following details the process of making a guide bar for each of the options listed.

Longitudinal Sawing

Setting the length stop. A longitudinal sawing support that works across the entire work table from edge to edge is ideal for sawing man-made wood materials. But it can cause accidents when sawing solid wood (solid wood). Just as a partially cut kerf in surface hardened wood will clamp the blade, if not for a wedge knife, such internal stresses can also advance the kerf until it is pressed against the saw blade and is stuck or possibly ejected. If the fence has front and rear adjustments, it should be moved so that its back end is 25 mm behind the front edge of the overhang of the saw, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Or place a block of wood on the stop to provide this clearance. For either method of installing the stop, it must be parallel to the disk.

Set the cutting width on the stop scale, make a test cut on unnecessary material and check the setting. If you do not trust the scale, use a ruler to measure from the stop to one of the saw teeth on the stop side. Be sure to secure the stop before turning it on.

Sawing wide board. When cutting a wide board, move the workpiece with one hand on the back side (but not in line with the saw blade), while the other hand presses the board on the table and the stop at the same time. Load the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear exactly what you will direct the workpiece and adjust the feed rate.

Sawing narrow boards. When completing the longitudinal cutting of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher. A stand with a notch at one end and a rounded edge from the other. Use a second pusher to press the parts against the stop. Keep pushers close to the machine so they are always at hand when you need them.


Cutting with a bevel stop. In the case of the medium circular saw, the adjustable tapered abutment is relatively short, but often has drilled holes that can be used to mount an additional long wood abutment on the standard support. Press the workpiece firmly against the stop with both hands and feed at a relatively low speed. If the part is too short to hold with both hands, secure it with, for example, a clamp on the stop.

Crossing the moving section. Friction between the large workpiece and the work table can turn crosscutting with a tapered abutment into very hard work. The ability to make a simple, smooth crosscut helps increase the accuracy and precision of the results, regardless of the size and weight of the workpiece. The sliding section of the circular machine’s work table is longer than the middle section, which can pivot 90° to 45° relative to the saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for making several identical parts.

Starting the bevels. To make a bevel on a circular machine, set the appropriate stop at the desired angle, and then work the workpiece in the usual direction. Make sure that the workpiece is pressed firmly against the stop so that the saw does not move it backwards.

To get a beveled cut, tilt the saw blade.

What models are available??

Classification of submersible models occurs on several grounds, the main of which is the way of powering the device. According to this criterion, the devices are divided into two types: mains-operated and battery-operated. Network models operate from an electrical power source and have higher power and performance. The advantage of these models is that they do not require regular charging of the battery and are lightweight. The disadvantages include the inability to use the tool in the field, as well as in any other places where there is no electricity or difficult access to the outlet. The speed in the network models varies in the range of 4-5 thousand rpm, and the average power is about 2 kW.

The main difference between a circular saw and a conventional one is the position of the blade. It is immediately apparent and does not let you mix up the models. If in regular saw it is covered with a protective cap from above, but it is still clearly visible from below, in the submersible models it is located above the bottom level and fully covered by the cap. the horizontal position of the disk relative to the base plate also differs: in submersible saws it is maximally displaced to the edge, while in conventional saws it is practically in the middle.

The next difference is the principle of carrying out the work. So, if with traditional models sawing is started from the edge of the workpiece, with plunge models it can be started from any place. All you have to do is to set the right depth of cut, unlock the “head” equipped with the spring mechanism and put the device right where you want to go deep into the wood. After the disk has plunged into the material, it is necessary to guide the device smoothly along the outlined line.

Another distinctive feature of circular saws is the guide bar. It makes it possible to perform even edging on long boards, which is impossible to achieve with a regular circular saw, despite the fact that it has a parallel stop.

It should be noted the presence in the plunge-cutting saws of the splinterguard and discs “clean cut”, thanks to which it is possible to form a completely smooth surface of the cut and completely exclude the formation of splinters.

riving, knife, circular, hands

How to choose?

Before you go to the store for a circular saw, you should once again make sure that it is necessary. This equipment is designed more for professional use, so when choosing a model for home, as well as in the case of rare use is better to opt for the classic circular products.

If the decision to purchase a plunge-cut saw has already been made, then it is recommended to take into account a number of important factors when choosing it.

  • It is necessary to determine the type of power of the model. So, if the device is bought for the construction of a house, on the site of which there is no electricity, then you should choose a battery model. Despite the lower, compared to network models, performance characteristics, the tool copes with its task quite well and saws the wood no worse than its electric counterpart.
  • The next selection criterion should be the power of the device. So, for home use you can be limited to models with a capacity of up to one kilowatt, while for professional equipment it is better to choose a motor of 2.5 kilowatts. You should also pay attention to the presence of an emergency shutdown mechanism, which will prevent the engine from overheating as a result of a drastically increased load.

It is worthwhile to check the convenience of control and adjustment mechanisms as well as to make sure that the service centers and availability of spare parts of this or that model are available.

  • Another parameter that you should pay special attention to is the ergonomics of the model. And despite the fact that most devices are equipped with a comfortable non-slip handle, it is better to hold the tool in your hands and try it out.
  • It is necessary to get acquainted with the review of technical characteristics of different models and with the rating of popularity. It would not be out of place to read reviews about the chosen model, as well as to compare the cost of devices in different stores. The last recommendation is caused by the fact that the price of the tool is not small, and taking into account dealers’ extra charges it can grow even more.

Watch the following video to see a review of the Makita SP 6000 circular saw.

First of all, the difference in price, the circular saw is noticeably more expensive than a regular circular saw.

The saw blade in a circular saw is not only above the base plate (lowers while the saw is in operation), it is also covered by a cover

Plunge circular saw looks a little more massive (dimensionally) than a regular circular saw.

Not only can the depth of cut be pre-set, but at the end of the cut a special mechanism takes the “head” to the upper position.

Circular saw for wood

A circular saw is also called a circular saw or a circular plunge-cut saw. For the first time it was made in the 20s of XIX century. Today, circular saws have great features with a variety of options. The circular saw is considered one of the most technically complicated tools. Circular saw is designed for longitudinal or cross cuts in wood and its derivatives. The circular saw makes a precise cut, unlike a jigsaw or a chainsaw. Not only can the saw handle wood, but also plastic, slate, organic glass. The circular saw can be manual or stationary. Hand saw is mobile, so it can be used everywhere. Stationary saw has high power and the ability to cut not a small amount of wood.

Using the circular saw in the garden and in construction

Circular saw is suitable for serious construction work as well as for home garden work.

  • Builders use the saw for precise sawing work on lumber, boards or fiberboard. Precise cuts are important on the construction site, so the circular saw does the job just fine.
  • The circular saw is also useful in the garden. With its help, you can quickly and accurately saw the desired wood. Make firewood for the winter, dismantle old fences or sheds. The saw is easy to operate and can be operated by anyone.

The advantages of the circular saw can include the following points:

riving, knife, circular, hands
  • Circular saw makes it possible to make precise cuts in wood. Precise line of cut can be achieved due to the fixed position of the saw blade.
  • Circular saws are lightweight. The low weight of the circular saw makes it easier for a person to use energy, and this affects the quality of woodworking.
  • Circular saw makes all kinds of cuts. The saw makes longitudinal and cross cuts, and it is possible to change the direction of the saw cut during work.
  • High price. All circular saws are equipped with a system for adjusting the position of the cutting equipment, this is the reason for the high price.
  • The use of circular saws creates problems when cutting workpieces of small dimensions across the width.
  • Without electricity it is impossible to operate the saw. Some saws have a wireless function. The saw requires a great deal of energy and even the strongest batteries only last 60 minutes or less.
  • Complex shaped cuts are not possible with a circular saw. It is designed for longitudinal and cross cuts only. Shaped cuts are only possible with the jigsaw.
  • The battery-powered saw has a lot of weight, and is also limited by the thickness of the cut. Maximum possible plunge is 8 cm.

Accessories for the tool

The basic tooling for a circular saw is the saw blade. You can tell from the socket and outside diameter whether it fits the model in question. The outside diameter determines the depth of cut, and the planting diameter is needed to purchase a tool of this size.

Read also: STIHL chain saw 180 with high idle speed

With the help of an adapter ring, you can apply the cloths and other planting sizes. This method is not suitable for outside diameter.

Discs are chosen for specific tasks, so it is worth considering:

A neat cut without defects at the edge of the product gives in the process of cutting the blade with fine teeth. High performance with large, sparse teeth.

  • Monolithic. They are seldom included in the scope of delivery and are used for soft wood. A disadvantage of fixtures is the need to sharpen the teeth and set them regularly, but at the same time it is an advantage, namely the increase in the life of the disc due to the possibility of resharpening.
  • Tungsten carbide. Blades with special tips on the teeth are usually made of cobalt, tungsten carbide, or carbide. Their popularity is due to their high quality of cut. Tools are used for working with laminate, hard wood, metal.

disc blade type is selected based on the material and type of operation