Sharpening The Chainsaw Chain On The Machine What Angles

File types and tips for choosing

Following the rules, before choosing files for sharpening the chainsaw chain, the exact chain pitch is determined by the chain marking. Further, they adhere to the recommendations:

Step sizeFile diameter, mm
0.252×2
0.3252×2.4
0.3752×2.6
0.4042×2.75

There are saw chains where it is appropriate to use round files with a cross-sectional diameter of 2×1.6 mm.

Sharpening The Chainsaw Chain On The Machine What Angles

Sharpening angles and configuration of the chainsaw tooth

  1. Base. The lower part of the tooth, which has holes for connection with the rest of the chain elements and during operation hides in the guide channel of the bar. It is this part that is lubricated.
  2. A special stop is a design element of the tooth that allows the cutter to remove only a certain thickness of wood chips in one pass. Thanks to him, the chain does not get stuck in the fibers, and the chainsaw does not wedge.
  3. The so-called tooth scapula is a cutter consisting of vertical and horizontal working surfaces that form cutting edges.

Tooth blades, or cutting edges, need to be sharpened at a specific angle, otherwise it will be difficult to achieve optimal sawing characteristics of the chain. The upper blade (horizontal) has the function of cutting the tooth into the wood and forming a groove. Side or end blade (vertical) helps to trim fibers from the side.

The productivity of operations when sawing wood in the transverse direction increases if you increase the angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain to the maximum possible and vice versa. Chains designed for longitudinal cutting of a tree trunk should be sharpened at an angle of approximately 10 degrees.

Under no circumstances should the depth gauge be touched again: improper grinding can lead to vibration during tool operation. Its debugging is done according to a special template.

Than manual sharpening is inferior to machine

  1. Difficulty keeping the required angle. You don’t need to think that you can sharpen the chainsaw chain with just one round file, for this operation you will need at least a special guide and a second flat file.
  2. Low speed of the operation. It is necessary to fix the guide on the tooth, manipulate with a round file, check the gap between the limiter, if you need to correct it with a flat file, and only then proceed to the next tooth.
  3. The need for experience. Despite the various helpers for sharpening a chainsaw by hand, first of all you need to feel the process, and this requires some experience.

3 ways to sharpen your chainsaw chain with your own hands

Learn how to properly sharpen your chainsaw chain at home using a file, angle grinder and machine. Detailed do-it-yourself sharpening process. We will show you how to work correctly with tools and devices.

It is very convenient to work with a chainsaw. Despite the fact that the unit weighs 5-7 kilograms, or even more, cutting a tree trunk into logs, you simply wonder how quickly this happens, and there is practically no fatigue. But then the moment comes when it is harder and harder for the tool blade to enter the wood. There is only one diagnosis. The saw is dull, so it is required to sharpen the chainsaw chain.

Whoever comes across this for the first time is a little upset, because it is not clear: to do it yourself or to give the instrument to specialists in the workshop. And what is the general sharpening method? But in fact, there is nothing wrong with that, and if you have knowledge, you can easily sharpen chainsaw chains with your own hands. The correct strategy for solving the issue in this case directly depends on the load of the unit.

If a chainsaw is used from time to time, several times a year, then it may not make sense to buy a special sharpening machine or accessories, it is easier to solve the problem by using the services of a service center. But if a chainsaw is a means of earning or there is a desire to master the sharpening process yourself, then you should definitely purchase a sharpener or a machine and manually carry out this simple manipulation of the chain. Let’s see below what the correct sharpening of the chainsaw chain is based on.

Signs of a dull chain and the consequences of further operation

The difficulty of working with a dull chainsaw should not be confused with the difficulty of sawing hardwood or heavily dried logs. In all these cases, the speed of the operation decreases, but a blunt instrument has a certain character of behavior. Signs by which one can judge the need for sharpening:

  • The chainsaw does not immediately bite into the tree trunk, as if grinding, moving from the point of contact;
  • During cutting of soft breeds, the tool sluggishly enters the thickness of the wood, you have to press on the tire;
  • Shavings from large with characteristic oblong particles turn into small thyrsa, which very rarely crumbles;
  • The chain heats up quickly, there is an unpleasant smell of burning oil to lubricate the guide bar.

In addition to these alarms, always after hitting a chain on metal nails, wire or burying a chainsaw in the ground, you can be one hundred percent sure of the need for subsequent sharpening of cutting edges.

What can happen to the tool later if you ignore the problem? The most harmless thing is that it will be impossible to work with a chainsaw, in the end it will get bored and force you to service the unit. But adherents of the saying “You don’t need to have power” can come to the following conclusion:

  • An extra load on the body, because, frankly, you have to put pressure on the tool so that it saws;
  • Overconsumption of fuel up to 30%, which is explained by the need to go through a longer cycle of revolutions to achieve the same result;
  • Accelerated wear of the tire and other parts of the chainsaw.

In addition to all these negative consequences of a blunt saw, there is a high probability of the chain jamming in the trunk and injury to the operator performing the work.

Sharpening the chain with an angle grinder

For the operation you will need:

  • Angle grinder, preferably slightly powerful and large;
  • Cutting wheel for metal of the corresponding diameter and thickness of 2–3 mm;
  • Vise or clamp to secure the angle grinder firmly to the table.

The angle grinder is clamped in a vice so that the disc is located strictly vertically, without a protective cover, in the direction of the operator. Sparks must fly towards the operator, therefore protective clothing and glasses must be worn to work. The angle grinder is turned on and, observing the angle, each link of the chainsaw chain is sharpened by eye.

Useful Tips

The following recommendations will come in handy in your work:

  1. To get started, place the tool on a flat and stable surface. A table or bench will work well. If you are in a forest, just find a wide chock or stump. Check the teeth around the entire circumference for chips or other defects: it may be that some of the teeth are broken.
  2. Engage the saw brake. This action will block the movement of the chain on the bar. Make sure that the cutting element is taut during sharpening. It is recommended to place a stand in the form of a log or a regular piece of a branch under the tire so that it will not fall through when pressed. Special clamps can be purchased to keep the tire stationary.
  3. In the process of sharpening, the file moves from the inside of the tooth to the outer edge of the edge by scrolling the file around its axis. In this case, the tool must be moved parallel to a special mark located on the chain. This mark serves as an indicator of the correct angle of the cutting edge. For the convenience of the process itself, the tooth that you are processing should be located in the center of the splint.
  4. All grinding work must be carried out in protective clothing and gloves, since the cutting edge of the teeth is very sharp, so there is a high probability of injury. For uniform sharpening, manufacturers recommend that the same number of file movements be carried out for each tooth; in practice, this recommendation can only be applied to teeth that are not damaged.
  5. For easier sharpening, the file can be used in tandem with a special holder on which the permissible angles are marked. With the help of such marks, teeth can be sharpened not only for transverse, but also for longitudinal cutting of wood. The use of a holder will also be useful for people who, unlike professionals, do not have proper experience in this matter.
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Chainsaw chain sharpening template

When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values ​​of the tooth angles. With its help, the values ​​of the rear angles of the upper and end blades are controlled, as well as the leading edge angle (it is indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions, and can vary within 65. 80 °).

It is especially important to use a template to estimate the value of the clearance angle of the upper blade. This angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain is very difficult to determine otherwise, but meanwhile it must be maintained within rather limited limits. From 50 to 60 °.

Measurement of the sharpening angle is performed by determining the angle between the upper cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the chain guide.

The angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what kind of work will be done. With an increase in the hardness of wood, its value should be lower. In general, the optimal angle value is 10. 12 °. For longitudinal cutting, and 25. 30 °. For cross-cutting.

Figure 3. Appearance of the template for sharpening the teeth of a chainsaw

Sharpening can be done manually using a round file with a working diameter of 4… 5.5 mm, or on a machine. In the first case, it is extremely important to correctly position the tool in relation to the sharpened tooth. The upper edge of the working part of the file is approximately one fifth higher than the upper edge of the tooth. The tool is positioned perpendicular to the chain axis, and at an angle of 25. 30 ° to the upper edge of the tooth

One round file is not enough. You will need a flat file to sharpen the limiter, and a hook to remove the resulting sawdust to clean the work area. There are also commercially available special holders on which the mowing line is graduated with the direction of movement of the file relative to the chain axis. As seen from Fig. 4, the holder can be installed on top of the tooth and rest on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be selected in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

The minimum required set in order to obtain the correct sharpening angle of the chain manually is shown in fig. Five.

Figure 5. A set of sharpening tools and accessories

First, the teeth of one direction are sharpened, and then the other. Start with light pressing of the tool away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, the round file is periodically rotated along its axis.

Sharpening angle grinder

As it turned out, the angle grinder is a universal tool. With its help, not only cut various materials or grind surfaces. Many craftsmen use them to sharpen drills, screwdrivers and other tools. They did not neglect the chains of petrol and electric saws.

The shaft rotates at a sufficiently high speed, from which a serious load is transferred to the chain. And this is not the only negative, here are just a few of them:

  • Uneven sharpening of the teeth in terms of compliance with the angle and thickness of the removed layer;
  • The ability to cut through the connecting element (eyelet), which holds the chain links together;
  • The complexity of adjusting the slices to the required parameters.

The very process of sharpening an angle grinder is that the power tool is clamped in a vice. It is necessary to ensure that it does not move and does not vibrate. Try to fix the angle grinder so that the disc is in a vertical plane. If you have experience, then you can do everything the other way around, that is, fix the saw in a vice, and bring an angle grinder to the chain with your hands. Both the one and the other way are unsafe.

Which way is easier is clear and without comments. Using simple guides and files makes it possible to sharpen the saw chain in a quiet environment at home. But this option will take time. It is ideal and guaranteed to do everything in a technical service, where the teeth are sharpened on an electric machine with the required angle of inclination. Such a service is inexpensive, the main thing is that such a service is close to home.

Chainsaw chain sharpening machines

Stihl produces two versions of manual machines. The stationary FG 2 and the mobile FG 1, which is mounted directly on the tire. There are analogues of the least recognized companies, commensurate in cost with the more ordinary devices described above, for example, this

The working part of these devices structurally resembles a bow saw, into which a round long ratfil is inserted instead of the saw blade. FG 1 and FG 2 not only sharpen the chains, but also straighten them, adjusting the length of the upper edge of all teeth to one size. According to the smallest tooth, which is taken as the control one. A rather complicated option mechanism allows you to set all the necessary characteristics. Sharpening is done in 2-3 movements, after which they proceed to the next tooth, keeping for it all the options that were made for the control tooth. This ensures consistent sharpening characteristics for all teeth. When sewing the stopper, the round ratfil changes to a thin.

Easy and convenient to use electronic chain sharpener for chainsaws. It has an option system that allows you to set the chain at the desired angle and bring the disc exactly to the sharpened edge. There are machines that automatically clamp the vice when lowering the disc onto the chain.

Even the popular Stihl does not last forever: once the teeth of a chainsaw wear out, which is easy to determine by the nature of the chips formed. With a blunt cutting edge, the chips are small, because the working edge does not cut, but crumples the wood. Naturally, the effort expended by the operator increases dramatically. It’s time to sharpen the saw. How to do this correctly. Choose the optimal technology, establish what angle the tooth should be and how to check it?

As a conclusion

You have learned about easy ways to sharpen chain teeth correctly. It must always be remembered that the saw blade must be sharp, otherwise the hardware may be damaged up to the failure of the power unit. If you notice a lot of wear on the teeth, it is recommended to replace the cutting element as soon as possible. Otherwise, the chain on the chainsaw may break and injure you.

After reading this article, you will understand why and why it is necessary to sharpen the saw chain and learn how to do it correctly. The most detailed illustrated guide.

Any cutting tool, including the chainsaw chain, wears out during work. The cutting elements become dull, the chain gradually becomes more and more difficult to saw, even if you do not cut on objects that quickly dull it (stones, earth, metal, etc.). P.).

The saw chain is also dull from sawing wood.

The more blunt the chain is, the more effort you will need to work. If your saw chain is sharpened correctly, it will cut into wood like oil, even with a slight pressure on the chainsaw. If this does not happen and you make significant efforts when cutting wood, then you need to pay attention to the cutting teeth and sharpen the saw chain. One of the important criteria for determining the need for sharpening the saw chain is the state of the chips generated during the operation of the chainsaw: if instead of large thick saw chips (wood chips), thin chips or wood flour are formed, this indicates the need to sharpen the saw chain.

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Using a blunt chain affects both the operator of the chainsaw and the machine itself. Vibration is transmitted to a person, which increases when a dull chain is used, sawing performance also suffers, and therefore fuel consumption increases, the tire wears out, the chain itself and the drive mechanism.

The saw chain can be sharpened with various tools: a file, a chuck with a file, an FG4 sharpening device and an electric sharpening device (machine). The sharpening process is the same for all types of saw chains.

The main criterion that must be met is to maintain the required sharpening angles of the cutting teeth in accordance with the type of saw chain using the appropriate file diameter.

A. Grinding angle

STIHL saw chains are sharpened at a 30 ° sharpening angle. Exceptions are saw chains for rip sawing with a sharpening angle of 10
°. Rip saw chains are marked with an “X”.

B. Front corner

The correct rake angle is automatically obtained using the prescribed file holder and file diameter.

Tooth shape

Angle A

Angle B

Micro (semi-chisel tooth, 63 PM3, 26 RM3, 36 RM)

Super (full chisel, 63 PS3, 26 RS, 36 RS3)

Rip saw chain (63PMX, 36 RMX)

The choice of file diameter depends on the chain pitch. The chain pitch is engraved in the area of ​​the cutting depth gauge of each cutting tooth.

Chain pitch

Round file (mm)

When using the prescribed files and / or sharpeners, angles A and B are obtained automatically.

If you use your chainsaw throughout the day, sharpen it with a few strokes of the file with each refueling, it is easier to sharpen a little, but often.

The saw chain is sharpened using the following sharpening tools:

  1. Round file corresponding diameter.
  2. File holder (the file holder has markings for the sharpening angle, for best results we recommend using the holder guide) or sharpener FG4.
  3. Filing gauge.
  4. Flat file.

Saw chain sharpening algorithm.

  • Lock the bar and chain to keep both hands free, best using a bench vise or clamp.
  • Choose a sharpening tool according to the pitch of the saw chain.
  • Block the saw chain. Slide the hand guard forward, pull the hand guard towards the tubular handle to feed the saw chain further.
  • Sharpen frequently, while only a small layer of metal of the cutting tooth will be removed, for simple regrinding, it is enough to make two or three movements with a file on each cutting tooth.

When sharpening the cutting tooth, the file must be directed horizontally (at right angles to the side surface of the guide bar), according to the specified angles, which are made in the form of marking lines on the file clamping holder. The file clamping holder must be positioned on the back of the cutting tooth and on the cutting depth gauge.

  • Sharpen only outward, the file removes metal only when moving forward, when moving backward, raise the file slightly above the edge of the cutting tooth.
  • Do not touch connecting and driving links.
  • Rotate the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear.
  • Control the sharpening angles with a filing gauge.
  • All cutting teeth should be sharpened to the length of the shortest cutting tooth; after sharpening, all cutting teeth should have the same length. If, during the operation of the chainsaw, the saw chain touches a stone or metal, as a result of which the upper cutting edge of one or more cutting teeth is damaged, then it is advisable to sharpen (calibrate) the cutting teeth on an electric sharpening device in a workshop observing the required sharpening angles.

Cutting depth stop.

The cutting depth limiter determines the depth of cut into the wood of the cutting tooth and, accordingly, the thickness of the cut wood chips, the thickness of the chips depends on the chain pitch. The cutting tooth works like a planer.

When the plane is adjusted to the minimum cutter overhang, it removes a very thin layer of wood. The same happens with a saw chain if the distance between the depth gauge and the tip of the cutting tooth is very small. At the same time, do not remove too much from the cutting depth gauge, then the cutting tooth will cut too deep into the wood, and there will be strong shaking and vibration during sawing. At the same time, the risk of kickback increases and the chainsaw is exposed to heavy loads, which can cause the saw chain to break.

When sharpening a cutting tooth, the distance of the cutting depth gauge decreases, because the working length of the blade of the cutting tooth decreases during sharpening and, accordingly, there is a decrease in the gap between the cutting depth limiter and the cutting tooth. Chip thickness depends on chain pitch.

It is recommended to remove the cutting depth gauge after 3-5 sharpening of the cutting tooth with normal wear. After deep sharpening of a chain that has fallen on a stone or metal, it is necessary to check the height of the cutting depth gauge using a filing gauge.

Checking the depth gauge:

  • After all cutting teeth have been sharpened, place the filing gauge on the cutting link. If the depth gauge protrudes above the filing gauge, remove the depth gauge up to the filing gauge using a flat file. This way, grind off all saw chain stops.
  • Finally, grind the back of the cutting depth gauge at an angle parallel to the markings, while making sure that the highest point of the cutting depth gauge does not move back.
  • Place a filing gauge on the saw chain. The highest point of the depth gauge must be flush with the filing gauge.

The saw chain is ready for use!

220020, Minsk, st. Timiryazeva 121/4, tel. (017) 215-19-22

029 737 66 08

029 626 66 08

[email protected]

Electric and chainsaws are included in the arsenal of many owners of private houses, along with such devices as a drill, hammer drill and others. This tool has one negative side. From time to time the chain becomes blunt. You can sharpen it with your own hands if you know how to do it correctly.

When to sharpen your chainsaw chain?

The first signs that your chain is dull may not be difficult to find. The cutting speed of the tree species disappears, the working part begins to jump over the surface of the tree, the chips from it become smaller.

It is possible to sharpen the chainsaw chain only before the very beginning of operation, immediately after purchase, and in the next only slightly sharpen it when dullness is detected. The more you use it, the more you need to sharpen it. Sharpening also depends on the wood that needs to be cut. In order to perform sharpening, you need to learn a little, it is quite difficult for a newcomer to do this, careful work for endurance. She asks to comply with all the rules in annotation, sharpening technology.

After finishing work with the device, it is imperative to check whether it is dull, so that later there will be no problems. To sharpen a chainsaw, it is imperative to use some devices. The teeth of the unit are quite worthy of attention, of complex shape and consist of 2 edges: side and top, slightly beveled, and this is the problem with caring for it.

Sharpening angles and configuration of the chainsaw tooth

The cutting edge of a tooth is characterized by the following parameters:

  • Width;
  • Thick;
  • Sharpening angle.

In addition, each model of the tool has its own tooth pitch, the value of which for household and semi-professional models is associated with the power of the chainsaw, and the torque that the drive develops. For example, for rip sawing, the pitch is taken less (for example, 0.325 inches). In this case, the productivity of work will decrease, but the required effort will be significantly lower. The upper values ​​of the steps for household chainsaws are extremely rare, mainly when felling trees with a large trunk diameter. In this case, the motor power should not exceed 2500 W.

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The thickness of the cutting edge for most manufacturers of chainsaws is set the same, and equal to 1.3 mm (there are also edges with a thickness of 1.1 mm, but, firstly, they are extremely difficult to sharpen at home, and, secondly, such links are extremely not very functional: they can only be used for cutting thin branches).

The height of the chain profile can be either 0.625 mm or 0.762 mm, and in the vast majority of cases it is a low profile that is used for household power tools. When sharpening the limiters, this parameter is very important, because with a decrease in the height of the above-permissible values, the vibration of the tool increases during operation, although the quality of the cut remains satisfactory. Therefore, you should not get carried away with lowering the height of the limiter when sharpening a tooth.

The sharpening angle of the chainsaw chain depends on the main purpose of the tool. For crosscut or rip sawing. Since the resistance of the wood is always noticeably higher when ripping, the edge of the tooth must be very sharp. It is recommended to do it in the range of 6. 12 ° (for comparison. With a predominance of cross-cut. Up to 25. 30 °). Naturally, in the first case, sharpening should be done more often, and especially carefully, since an unacceptably small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to its rapid chipping during the operation of the chainsaw. This is especially important for links that are made of structural alloy steels containing silicon and manganese, for example, 40KhGS or 35KhGSA.

External signs of a blunt cutting edge of a chainsaw tooth

Recall that the chainsaw tooth has a complex configuration (see Fig. 1), which also depends on the direction of movement of the chain. It has two working edges: the lateral one, which is located perpendicular to the axis of movement of the links, and the upper one, located at a certain angle to the direction of the chain movement. In addition, a limiter is provided on each tooth, the parameters of which determine the height of the chips to be removed. Since the main cutting effort falls precisely on the working angle, then all subsequent work with the tool will depend on which angle to sharpen the tooth.

Figure 1. Functional parts of a chainsaw tooth and their appearance

Before starting long-term work with a chainsaw, she needs to inspect and perform a trial sawing, as a result of which:

  1. Visually establish the presence (or absence) of a tapered section adjacent to the corner of the tooth, as well as radius curvature on it. The main signs of bluntness (see Fig. 2).
  1. Check the feed force, at which the tool runs stably, with a fast cut. For sharp teeth, the initial moment of penetration of the tooth into the wood occurs quickly, and without significant material resistance.
  2. Find out the presence of chain vibrations during a steady cut. If they are felt, then the teeth must be sharpened.
  3. Inspect the appearance of the just cut end (especially if the tool is used for ripping). If there are rough chips and dents, the chainsaw chain must be sharpened.

Chainsaw chain sharpening template

When purchasing a chainsaw, it is advisable to acquire a special template (see Fig. 3), with which you can easily set the optimal values ​​of the tooth angles. With its help, the values ​​of the rear angles of the upper and end blades are controlled, as well as the leading edge angle (it is indicated in the manufacturer’s instructions, and can vary within 65. 80 °).

It is especially important to use a template to estimate the value of the clearance angle of the upper blade. This angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain is very difficult to determine otherwise, but meanwhile it must be maintained within rather limited limits. From 50 to 60 °.

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Measurement of the sharpening angle is performed by determining the angle between the upper cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the chain guide.

The angle of sharpening of the chainsaw chain can be changed, depending on what kind of work will be done. With an increase in the hardness of wood, its value should be lower. In general, the optimal angle value is 10. 12 °. For longitudinal cutting, and 25. 30 °. For cross-cutting.

Figure 3. Appearance of the template for sharpening the teeth of a chainsaw

Sharpening can be done manually using a round file with a working diameter of 4… 5.5 mm, or on a machine. In the first case, it is extremely important to correctly position the tool in relation to the sharpened tooth. The upper edge of the working part of the file is approximately one fifth higher than the upper edge of the tooth. The tool is positioned perpendicular to the chain axis, and at an angle of 25. 30 ° to the upper edge of the tooth

One round file is not enough. You will need a flat file to sharpen the limiter, and a hook to remove the resulting sawdust to clean the work area. There are also commercially available special holders on which the mowing line is graduated with the direction of movement of the file relative to the chain axis. As seen from Fig. 4, the holder can be installed on top of the tooth and rest on its upper edge. Since the height of the holder is adapted to a certain chain pitch, it should be selected in relation to chainsaws of specific models and brands.

The minimum required set in order to obtain the correct sharpening angle of the chain manually is shown in fig. Five.

Figure 5. A set of sharpening tools and accessories

First, the teeth of one direction are sharpened, and then the other. Start with light pressing of the tool away from you, gradually increasing the load. During sharpening, the round file is periodically rotated along its axis.

Chainsaw chain sharpening angle. How to choose the right one?

Even the popular Stihl does not last forever: once the teeth of a chainsaw wear out, which is easy to determine by the nature of the chips formed. With a blunt cutting edge, the chips are small, because the working edge does not cut, but crumples the wood. Naturally, the effort expended by the operator increases dramatically. It’s time to sharpen the saw. How to do this correctly. Choose the optimal technology, establish what angle the tooth should be and how to check it?

Mechanized sharpening on the machine

Sharpening on the machine is much more convenient and does not require high qualifications of the performer. Such machines are electrically driven and equipped with special grinding wheels.

For a household workshop, it is worth purchasing compact units that do not take up much space during storage, and are suitable for quick and high-quality sharpening of chainsaw chains from different manufacturers. Such units should operate from a stationary power supply with a voltage of 220 V, have low power consumption (up to 100 W) and be easy to install on a circuit.

When choosing a machine, you must pay attention to its following technological characteristics:

  • Possibility of processing teeth with different thickness of the upper edge and different chain pitch;
  • The ability to adjust the sharpening angle, within the limits specified earlier;
  • Availability of replaceable grinding discs;
  • Constant cutting width.

The design of the machine is simple, and includes a drive motor, a shaft with a seat for a sharpening disc, a handle with controls, a device for attaching the machine to a chain. Adjustment of the pressing force on the sharpened element is provided by a spring clamp. Modern models of sharpening machines are equipped with a differentiated clamp, which provides for the self-centering of the product on the machine. For the convenience of work on the clamp body there is a measuring scale.

Optionally, the machines can also be equipped with a miniature electric lamp that illuminates the working area, as well as a hydraulic booster that makes sharpening easier.

Safety of work is ensured by a folding safety guard.