Stihl 250 Crankshaft Oil Seal Replacement
The Stihl MC 180 chainsaw is in operation. The problem is as follows. Before preserving for the winter, on the advice of mechanics, I dripped 4 drops of motor oil (Stihl) into the hole in the plug. Twisted the candle. Now I was going to go to the country, I decided to look at the saw. He pulled the starter, but it does not spin! He unscrewed the candle, it is in oil, rubbed it back. Same. Unscrewed, scrolled the starter without a candle, everything spins perfectly. Spun back, the starter does not spin. What could be?
Rinse the chainsaw with clean, undiluted gasoline, pour directly through the spark plug hole and slowly rotate the starter. Then drain the fuel and over again. After all these manipulations, dry the saw and candle and only after that try to start it. Once you learned to preserve, then learn and re-preserve, and not just pulled and drove off.
Tell me, for what reason can the starter jam? The Stihl 180 chain saw is brand new.
You will not understand, you will not know. Maybe the launch cord does not fit well, or maybe somewhere the ebb interferes. Shtilevskie starters are quite reliable and durable. Some diseases of a constructive plan are not observed, mainly dirt, or intensive exploitation. Once a new chainsaw is brought to the service under the warranty will be repaired.
I’ve noticed one peculiarity in my Stihl MS 180 chainsaw: when gas runs out in the tank, idle speed increases and the chain starts to rotate even when the trigger is released. When you press the gas, the chainsaw stalls. It lasts a couple of tens of seconds, then the chainsaw stops. In automotive technology, I did not observe such a phenomenon, so that with a shortage of fuel in the carburetor, the engine speed would increase. Why it happens?
This is a common occurrence for two-stroke engines. When the supply of gasoline to the carburetor decreases, the mixture becomes leaner. Consequently. Increase in speed, deterioration of acceleration. This is accompanied by a short-term overheating of the CPG. The engine will not fail, but it will not add health. Running out of fuel from the tank to the end should be avoided.
There is a Stihl MS180 chainsaw, used in the summer season on the preparation of firewood. Recently, the reaction of the chain began to disappear when you press the gas, the chain does not spin at all, or in jerks. Impossible to cut. What could be the breakdown?
For a completely new chain and sprocket, the tension must be exactly according to the instructions. So that the lower branch does not sag. And the upper fingers could be pulled to the height of the leading link. Then the chain will be quite free to walk on the bus. But, the gradual wear of the sprocket teeth reduces its pitch. A gradual extension of the chain increases its pitch. And the time comes when the steps of the same sprocket and chain cease to coincide to such an extent that the recommended stretch already causes difficult chain movement. In this case, we recommend that the tension be slightly reduced. Until the appearance of some sag of the lower branch. By the way, for the same reason, it is recommended to use a pair, or even three chains, on one sprocket. In this case, the wear is even and there will be no accelerated wear of the new chain on the old, partially worked out sprocket.
Stihl 180 chainsaw after starting when you press the gas “chokes” and ate to start sawing it stalls. However, if you torment with gas for 30-40 seconds, it starts to work normally. I developed 3 liters of gasoline, the filter is clean, the oil from the dealer.
If this started recently, then most likely something got into the carburetor with low-quality fuel. Need to clean.
I want to purchase this unit. What should I look for during an examination?
Not to mention the engine itself, since it is better to diagnose it in the service, you can look at the rest and get a lot of information. Significant mileage will be indicated by: Dangling latch of the top cover. (Must close tightly and do not turn away from vibration). New star on a tattered chainsaw. With the cover removed, the movement of the engine relative to the body. Cut chain catcher and chain damage on sprocket cover. You can also carefully inspect the carburetor on the left along the side. The place where the wire rod enters the lever of the axis of the air damper. With a slightly working chain saw, it will be flat, oblong. The longer the saw has worked, the greater will be the development of this hole. Sometimes rubbed through and through. In no case should you take a saw that has at least a slight play of the right end of the crankshaft relative to the engine. This is a sign of a quick overhaul.
How many seconds should the Stihl ms 180 chainsaw engine idle before turning it off?
Allow to work for about 20-30 seconds and then jam. There’s no point.
Idling began to disappear, at first I did not understand what was the matter, and then I remembered that it was necessary to add a lot of idling, I added on a hot motor it seemed to work out. I arrive in a week to the cottage, I need to saw a couple of logs, I start a saw and first the chain rotates on a cold motor and then everything goes through, I stood there for about 10 minutes and I start everything normally only on a cold motor. This is normal?
If the chain turns, then the speed is too high. It should be borne in mind that with a normally regulated and serviceable engine, a slightly increased idle speed is quite possible immediately after starting before warming up. And he can be promoted decently. Until the chain rotates. With the engine warming up, idle is gradually lowered. For this reason, it is recommended to adjust the idle speed only on a warm engine.
Is it possible to put a clutch drum with a removable crown on a Stihl MS 180 chainsaw (“modernization” drum allowed), for example from the 250th.
Can. Everything fits perfectly. Just don’t need to go on, 325″. It’s hard for the motor. But you should keep in mind a couple of nuances. On such a set (with removable) the sprocket is slightly larger in diameter and one tooth larger. The speed of the chain will increase in the proportion of 6: 7, respectively, the load on the engine will increase. But practice has shown that this is not critical with normally sharpened chains. And the second one. A completely new chain of 50 links to such an asterisk is difficult to put on. (In general, 51 links are recommended, but they are rarely). The first time you have to torment, so she stood on the sprocket and tire. And then, when it is slightly stretched, everything will dress normally.
I bought a Stihl 180 chainsaw. I filled in oil, benzyl. Started up and let it work without load at idle. He burned a tank of gas, periodically slightly pressing on the gas. Why didn’t the oil for chain lubrication have been received, the oil hole remained dry. Or will it begin to arrive when the revolutions are greater and the chain rotates longer?
Stihl 250 Crankshaft Oil Seal Replacement
At the 180th calm, oil is supplied to the chain when the drive sprocket rotates (in short, when the chain rotates), but it is not recommended to run in at idle.
On the MS 180 chainsaw, after using one tank of fuel, I have at least half of the oil tank left. The ditch of the tire and the base of the chain, which is in the groove, in oil. But when checking, the oil for some reason does not splash off the chain and the cutting teeth, in my opinion, remain dry during sawing. Wood plaque forms on top of the cutting tooth. Oil arrives, but it turns out in insufficient volume. Nothing could clog, a new chainsaw, a clean hole. Marriage of the manufacturer or is it the way it should be?
I will not argue about the flow of chain oil on the calm, but 2-3 tanks of fuel per tank of oil is not too much? I have less than a quarter tank of oil left after running out of a tank of gasoline.
When I start a tool with the chain brake turned off, it sometimes turns on itself when I pull the starter handle. Is this normal?
This model is quite peculiar at launch, there is no decompressor and / or elastostart that compensate for the return, and despite the small size of the piston, it is pretty decent. Because of this, the saw must be started confidently, smoothly engaging the starter, sharply and evenly pull the starter cord, it is worth at some point loosening the grip or lowering the pulling speed as the recoil will remind you of an unpleasant sensation.
What is the difference with a Stihl MS 180 chain saw with a 30cm tire. And with a bus of 35 cm? That is, the distance from the gear stop to the tip of the tire?
So this value changes during operation. The stronger the chain is stretched, the greater this distance. And the longer the tire, the greater the difference in cut lengths with a new and extended chain. The difference in the length of the cut between a completely new and extended chain will be about 1 cm. The tire does not extend, but simply its tip moves farther away from the saw body, otherwise the chain will not be stretched. The limit for increasing the length of the cut is determined precisely by the length of the tensioner screw and in which place of this screw the tensioner cracker was located when a new chain was installed. The farther it was from the leading sprocket, the faster, ceteris paribus, the chain will become unusable due to excessive stretching. I’m afraid that it’s unlikely that a tire will be longer than the standard 1 cm. Typical tire lengths for household models. 12″, 14″, 16″ and 18″ for chains 3/8″ x 1.3 mm vs 13″, fifteen” and 18″ for chains 0.325″ x 1.3 mm.
Is it possible to keep the brake off when starting, or is it necessary for the brake to be on?
And this is more convenient and safer to you. There are three main launch options. Idling on “half gas” and on “full throttle”. In the first case, the chain is stationary after starting, or may twitch slightly. In the second and third cases. The chain moves. Putting the brake in the operating position in the first start-up option is a waste of time. It is highly unlikely that the idle speed would suddenly and without reason increase so much that the chain would move. In the second and third cases, when starting with the activated brake, it is necessary to immediately disconnect the brake after starting so as not to burn the clutch. When starting with the brake turned off after starting, you need to press and release the gas lever so that the saw engine switches to idle mode (in the third case, at the time of starting, this lever is already pressed, it only needs to be released).
It was necessary to work, the saw started up quickly, although it stood for 5 months without work, having cut everything that was necessary, it burned one tank of fuel; everything is fine. But I arrive in a week, under it a puddle of oil before this was not like that. What could it be?
Never been on these chainsaws. Usually it breaks the oil hose from the pump mount if you leave cold oil in the tank and put the saw in heat. The breather only works inward, the pump does not allow air to pass through, so there is nowhere to go to the excess pressure, and it squeezes the hose.
I bought a Stihl MC 180 C-BE chainsaw. Started according to the instructions. Everything works fine, but for too long and too many actions. I tried to start without brake in position I, and also started up the first time. Tell me, is it possible to do this and how can this threaten?
It is better to start without a brake, the clutch will burn quickly. Warm generally easy to start.
Today I have not wound up the tool. He unscrewed the candle, it is wet. He put it on the gas burner, then tried again. It does not start at all. He pulled out a candle about five times, and all the time it was wet. What to do
You try and not dry the candle. I drenched them. I usually start looking like this: Unscrew the candle, turn off the ignition. Jerk 10. 15 starter (if heavily flooded, put the muffler down and twitch). Then I’m blowing a candle on the candle in order to bring down the surplus fuel and turn it on. But then I start looking not from the lowest position, but from the second from the bottom (the air damper is open and “launcher” gas). Usually a jerk from the third. Fourth start. Smoke a little and everything works. And sometimes it’s too lazy to turn out the candle, so I give my foot full gas (on the ground, of course) and pull until it starts. Most often it will work. And if after blowing and drying the candles you start again from the lower position, then you will flood again. There is already an excess of fuel, and we’ll close the damper.
During operation, the stihl ms 180 c chainsaw stopped holding idle and died out. With difficulty started, but again stalled at idle. After that, she does not want to start. The next day, after unsuccessful attempts to start, removed and washed the air filter. It did not help, I had to remove the candle. It turned out to be dry, although there were plenty of attempts to start it. I cleaned the breather with a needle (it was not clogged). Changed the fuel filter (although the old one is visually not dirty). He cleaned the carburetor and just in case put a new candle. The saw won’t start! He unscrewed the candle again. Dry. What to do?
Remove the silencer. Look at the piston, if it has longitudinal stripes, then replacement is required.
Stihl 180 chainsaw operating six years, bought a new one. I am satisfied with the saw, except for oil, filters and bearing lubrication, I did not touch anything, I did decent work over the years. This year I had to cut a lot, I worked for three days. On the second day, the saw began to undermine; On the third day, the turnover fell by about 2/3. It works at idle, sometimes it can stall, it does not start the first time. Yesterday set did not touch. What could be?
I would have looked at the muffler. If you have never cleaned it in 6 years, it clogged and there is nothing to do with exhaust fumes. Usually, with these symptoms, either the air filter is blocked or the silencer.
Recently I learned that it is advisable from time to time to turn the tire over on a chainsaw. For uniform wear. Tell me, is this so, is it worth it?
Turning the tire over is not just desirable. Required. How often. Depends on the volume of work. Not only flip, but also grind burrs.
What is the difference between the leading and chain sprockets of a Stihl 180 chainsaw?
Differences between “leading asterisk” and “sprocket” no, these are different names for the same part.
I bought this chainsaw, I really liked it, but I want to ask you if my saw can cut a thick tree?
Standard tire length. 35 cm, it is possible to cut a log. 70 cm in diameter, if logs of this diameter prevail, then you need a chainsaw of greater power. The tool will cope, of course, with the task, slowly and correctly cut all the logs of large diameter, but you need to remember that by giving heavy loads to the device that was not created for this, you (at best) reduce the life of the chainsaw, that is, bring it closer to overhaul.
Please tell me if it is possible to use the 45 cm tire with the Stihl 180 chain saw?
You can put a tire with a maximum length of 40 cm on the chainsaw.
Where is the breather in the Stihl ms 180 chainsaw?
Vent valve (“breather”) is “from above” gas tank and oil tank, visually not see, because everything is closed there by the starter housing.
In horizontal position, the gas button sticks. What to do?
Most likely, the linkage mechanism is faulty when the unit is turned over “sinks” one of the levers or rods.
Why is oil not supplied to the chainsaw tire lubricant? What is the problem?
The oil filter is clogged. The channel in the chainsaw block is clogged. The channel and groove of the tire are clogged. Faulty oil pump drive (worm). Faulty oil pump. Out of oil in the oil tank.
What can you say about the overheating of the Stihl 180 chainsaw engine?
I will try to explain about overheating of a working chainsaw. I understand the working chainsaw as follows: the carburetor is correctly adjusted (it is enough to set the idle normally, by ear or by the tachometer 2800), bearings, oil seals, filters, and a candle. In order. The cooling system should also be in order, but it happens that you can’t see what color the starter cover is, the grille is clogged, the air hardly passes. If a working chain saw will work on a normal fuel mixture (high-quality gasoline with a sufficiently high octane rating, good two-stroke oil and its correct proportion). Then it’s practically impossible to overheat (a sharp chain. It goes without saying). The cause of overheating is directly related to the fuel, you can overheat a new saw in 5 minutes, and a working one. The reason for overheating. Not work or its duration, but fuel or oil. Or both. And at home, moderate use, subject to all of the above, this tool will never overheat.
Why does the cylinder get warm and does the saw stall when heated?
The problem is in the ignition module, there may be no compression (necessary).