Stihl Mc 180 Chainsaw Oil Hose Replacement

As the oil supply mechanism for chain lubrication, the Stihl MC 180 chainsaw uses a mechanical oil pump. What is noteworthy, the Stihl 180 oil pump is completely made of metal parts and is practical and highly reliable. Let’s take a closer look at how the Stihl 180 chainsaw oil supply system is organized.

Stihl Mc 180 Chainsaw Oil Hose Replacement

Pump design, lubrication systems and principle of operation

The oil pump drive consists of two parts, it is a plastic gear with a worm gear and a wire lever that transfers force from the sprocket wheel to the worm gear.

One of the main malfunctions of the oil system of the saw is a defective thread on the plastic gear of the oil drive, therefore, whenever possible, it is necessary to control its wear and thread quality.

The lever is rigidly fixed to the gear, and they are delivered as one part. The tip of the wire lever has a characteristic bend, which is designed for better grip with the drive drum-sprocket. A special slot is made on the drum for mounting the drive.

The Stihl 180 oil pump is completely made of metal and has a non-collapsible design. On the pump casing there is a receiving hole for oil and a groove-channel through which oil from the oil wire enters directly into the pump. The mechanism is installed in the body of the Stihl 180 chainsaw.

At the time of increasing engine speed, the drum-sprocket starts to rotate the gear of the worm gear by the wire lever, and it, in turn, causes the plunger of the oil pump to rotate, as a result of which the oil begins to be pumped through the oil channels to the chainsaw tire.

In the operation of the system, the oil line of the chainsaw is directly involved, at the end of which there is an oil receiver. The oil receiver is also a filter. On the second side of the oil hose, rubber expansion is performed, with which the hose is installed in the Stihl 180 chainsaw body immediately behind the oil pump.

Malfunctions of the pump and the system as a whole

As you know, in this world there is nothing eternal and over time everything has to be repaired. So the Stihl ms 180 oil system is no exception, and has its own specific malfunctions. Let’s consider them in more detail.

Symptoms of a lubrication system are as follows:

  • Chainsaw chain is absolutely dry and does not shine;
  • Oil does not leave the oil tank;
  • The chain stretches quickly and this happens all the time;
  • Takes away the saw tire when sawing, to the side;
  • The tire warms up and in the area of ​​the leading sprocket, paint melting is observed.

All these signs, directly or indirectly indicate problems in the chain saw chain lubrication system.

The first thing to do after you suspect that chain oil is not flowing is to check its supply. There are two ways to do this. The first is described in detail in the instructions for the tool and consists in the fact that you need to start a chainsaw, add gas as much as possible and direct towards an obstacle.

With a good lubrication system, the oil will fly off the tip of the tire and a strip of oily drops will appear on the surface towards which the tire is directed. If there are any irregularities in the system, the surface will remain clean.

The second way is to remove the tire from the chainsaw and run it. When the engine speed increases, in the place where the tire shank is installed, oil will flow from the oil channel, if this does not happen, it is necessary to look for the cause of the malfunction.

Diagnostics

Diagnostics should begin by inspecting and checking the oil receiver (filter) of the Stihl 180 saw. As a rule, if the filter is very dirty, the oil supply may stop.

In order to save, a clogged filter, you can try to clean it by rinsing it thoroughly in gasoline.

Next, you need to remove the drum sprocket, and check the condition of the pinion gear. The thread on it should be clearly defined, not licked and not have any other defects, also with the gear removed, it is necessary to check the wire lever. It must compress the gear tightly and not turn, otherwise, the gear stands still and does not transmit force to the pump, as a result of which the oil supply is cut off.

If all of the above methods to detect and eliminate malfunctions have not yielded results, extreme measures must be applied, i.E., dismantle the pump.

How to remove a pump

The oil pump is installed on the right side of the bottom of the case, in the same place the oil pipe coming from the tank of the chainsaw approaches it. To remove the pump, you will first need to free the saw from the handle; for this, the back handle of the unit is untwisted and the throttle control rod is disconnected. At the next stage, you need to remove the plugs of the shock absorbers of the handle and using a powerful slotted screwdriver, squeeze them out of their seats on the handle.

After the handle is removed, the chainsaw body is turned upside down. The hose going from the oil tank to the pump will be visible immediately. It must be removed from the seat.

The pump itself is removed using an M5 thread screw and a wide washer. The length of the screw should be approximately 45-50 mm. A washer is put on the screw and it is screwed into the pump (the inside of the pump is threaded). Further, as the screw is screwed in, the stop from the washer will cause the oil pump to rise along the thread. Thus, the pump is removed from its seat. Before starting work, we recommend that you read the article on how to disassemble the Stihl 180.

For a better understanding of the pump removal process, you can watch the below. In the, the SC master shows in detail how to remove the oil pump from the chainsaw, and also describes the main malfunctions of the feed system.

The Stihl 180 oil pump is a very high-quality and reliable part, therefore it is necessary to change it only in the last resort, when all other elements of the system have already been checked.

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After the pump is removed, it must be cleaned and purged. As a rule, the main breakdown of the oil pump is its blockage. By removing it, you can install the pump in place.

Replacing the pump is only required if it is not possible to eliminate clogging.

The cause of oil smudges on the bottom of the chainsaw

The Stihl 180 chainsaw has a characteristic malfunction, which consists in insufficient sealing of the installation site of the oil hose in the chainsaw body and the appearance of a leak in this place. To eliminate it, it is enough to remove the handle of the Stihl MS 180 saw, disconnect the hose itself, rinse and degrease the seat in the body and the hose end, then apply sealant and reinstall the hose. Such a simple operation will reliably eliminate the malfunction and the oil will cease to leak.

Conclusion

The Stihl 180 chainsaw oil pump is a reliable and unpretentious part, which is rarely the reason for the lack of chain lubrication. Disassemble and change the pump, it is necessary only in extreme cases, when there is confidence that the reason is 100% in it. You can do this with your own hands, because this operation is quite simple.

Stihl chainsaw is a tool that is designed for logging, processing plants, creating landscape design and other household needs. If any parts break down or the device fails, you will need to repair the Stihl chainsaw.

Major malfunctions

A chainsaw should be used according to the operating instructions, then it will last a long time and will not fail. All possible malfunctions of the Stihl chainsaw can be identified and eliminated independently. Consider the main problems that may arise in the components and design of the device, and how to repair a Stihl 180 chainsaw with your own hands.

Fills the candle

If you notice that a candle is being poured on a Stihl chainsaw, then possibly a malfunction has occurred in the fuel system. The engine should run on a mixture of gasoline and oil. If the mixture is poor, then a decrease in power occurs, the cylinder overheats and the saw systems wear out. A wet candle on a Stihl chainsaw is due to a disproportion in the fuel mixture. The lack of air in the mixture prevents the proper combustion of the emulsion.

Using low-quality gasoline can cause engine wear.

The oiling of the spark also causes the use of oil for 4-stroke engines, piston wear. If such a malfunction occurs, remove the gas tank cap and adjust the fuel supply. The air intake should be brought in good condition. A clogged filter must be purged with air, but it is better to replace it. How filters can be cleaned is described in the chainsaw instruction manual.

It will be possible to determine the quality of the mixture using a candle insulator. If brown color appeared on it, then this means that the quality of the mixture is normal. White or soot indicates a poor or over-enriched mixture.

The cause of oiling is a candle. Interruptions in the formation of sparks are observed when the gap is set incorrectly. The instructions for repair and operation of the device give the distance between the contacts of the candle. If you do not have such data, then you can install 0.7-1 mm.

If the gap is less, then the efficiency of ignition of the mixture decreases, if more, then interruptions in the formation of a spark occur. To eliminate over-enrichment of the mixture, purge the motor. In this case, you need to remove the candle and turn the crankshaft several times with a manual starter.

The chain is not lubricated

When repairing a chainsaw, you will notice that oil does not get on the chain. If the chain does not lubricate, it means that the lubrication system has interrupted. There are such malfunctions:

  1. The chain is dry, light in color.
  2. The chain stretches too fast.
  3. The tire is too hot and the paint has melted on it.
  4. The oil does not decrease in the tank.
  5. With a sharp chain, the saw began to cut worse.

Such signs indicate that there have been disruptions in the lubrication process. To check the oil supply to the lubrication unit, remove the tire and turn on the chainsaw. Then increase the speed and observe the end point of the oil line. If the oil goes, then its volume is not enough for proper lubrication. If there is no feed, clean the filter. The oil flow should also be adjusted. In the absence of malfunctions, further diagnostics and DIY repair are required. If it turns out that the substance is not supplied, the oil system is repaired.

Consider the main malfunctions and methods for their elimination:

  1. Breakage of an oil hose. This can be seen during inspection. In this case, the hose must be replaced.
  2. If there is no thread on the oil pump shaft, replace it.
  3. If there are defects in the thread, then it must be replaced.
  4. If there is no corkscrew of the main shaft, then you can install in its place a nail of the same diameter.
  5. Filter clogging could occur. With the Stihl MS 180 saw, this happens often. You can rinse it with gasoline. If this does not solve the problem, replace the filter.

The Stihl 180 chainsaw often has an oil line depressurization. This happens where the oil line coming from the tank is inserted into the tool body. Breakage can be detected by smudges of oil at the bottom of the saw.

To fix the problem, remove the saw handle and pull out the hose. After that, clean the hose. Then apply sealant to it and put into the tool body.

Does not start

If the chainsaw does not start, then the cause may be a breakdown of the ignition unit and the engine start. If there are no deviations when measuring the gap between the module and the flywheel, then check the spark plug. They pull it out of the shaft and measure the gap. If fuel enters the combustion chamber, and there are no breakdowns in the ignition system, then the carburetor is faulty.

Does not develop momentum

If the saw does not support idle, then the following may have happened:

  • Clogged filter;
  • Violation of the ignition system;
  • The carburetor has deteriorated;
  • Deformed motor parts.

For self-repair, you need to perform the following actions:

  1. Flush or replace the fuel hose.
  2. Clean the filter.
  3. Check the quality of gasoline and oil.
  4. Check the operation of the carburetor and spark plugs.

When the Stihl chainsaws are repaired, they will work correctly.

If the saw is not gaining momentum, then this could lead to:

  • Faulty engine;
  • Cylinder wear;
  • Failure of piston rings;
  • Spark plug breakdown;
  • Coil malfunction;
  • Imbalance of carburetor screws.

If no defects are found after testing, then the carburetor is checked.

How to disassemble, repair and assemble a Stihl chainsaw

To repair the device, you must first disassemble it. It is required to remove the side cover, saw chain and tire. Then clean the tool, blow it off with a compressor and clean all the nodes with a brush. Then remove the handle. To do this, remove the plugs from the shock absorbers with a screwdriver. After that, the shock absorbers and the handle are removed.

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Then they remove the starter. Remove the housing cover and unscrew the starter screws. Remove the item. Then they remove the flywheel by unscrewing the nut that holds it, unscrew the nut of the flywheel. Twist to the left. Remove the flywheel. Then the clutch, the oil pump drive and the carburetor are dismantled.

After that, remove and disassemble the motor. It rests on 4 screws on the bottom of the saw. It is necessary to untwist them and take out the motor. Then disassemble the engine itself. Unscrew the crankcase screws, remove it. Then the crankshaft, oil seals, bearings and piston rings are dismantled. At the end of the disassembly, repairs and troubleshooting are performed.

After repair, the tool will need to be assembled back. To do this, install the piston on the connecting rod. The arrow on it should look along the chain, and to the left of the piston will be the side of the crankshaft in which the flywheel is to be mounted. Put the piston in the cylinder. Install bearings, oil seals and circlip in the cylinder. After that, degrease the crankcase fixation place and install it in its place. During assembly, the reverse dismantling sequence must be observed.

How to remove the clutch

Before unscrewing the clutch, remove the drive sprocket. Remove the lock washer and remove the sprocket and needle bearing. Unscrew the clutch. Remove the reflector plate and pump.

How to remove and replace the sprocket

Replacing the sprocket on a chainsaw is needed in cases where:

  • Jammed chain movement;
  • Leading sprocket has worn out.

To replace, remove the chainsaw sprocket. The teeth of the sprocket should not deviate from the required dimensions, otherwise the work of the saw will be accompanied by vibration, which will damage the crankshaft and bearings. The sprocket’s life is 2 times the working life of the chain. Use 2-3 chains before abrasion of their cutting surface. After that, change the asterisk. It is located behind the clutch. Remove the clutch assembly cover.

Remove the tire, chain and clutch. But first you need to fix the crankshaft. Then the puller is placed in the hole of the coupling and rotated clockwise. Remove the clutch. Behind it is an asterisk. Now they are dismantling it. If it is faulty, it is replaced.

Repair and replacement of the oil pump

Consider how to change the oil pump. If the element leaks, the gasket between its two parts should be updated. If this part of the oil pump is not damaged, then it must be wiped and put in place. Now check the hose. There should be no cracks on it. If the hose is damaged, replace it. Then the compressor cleans the output channels.

Piston replacement

Consider how the diagnosis and replacement of the piston group. It is necessary to check the condition of the cylinder and the degree of wear of the piston. After dismantling the motor, the pan is unscrewed, the crankshaft with the piston is removed from the cylinder. Unscrew the piston pin stops. If the piston is defective, it must be replaced. The retaining rings are fixed with a slit down. Before installing the piston group in the cylinder, the piston is lubricated with oil. Before mounting the crankcase, degrease its surface and apply sealant.

How to set the ignition

It is necessary to set the ignition on the chainsaw. The ignition is adjusted as follows:

  • Turn out the candle and evaluate its appearance;
  • Specify the distance between the magnets and the coil (up to 0.2 mm);
  • Check spark.

Carburetor repair and tuning

The carburetor is adjusted on a warm engine. If the engine cannot be adjusted, then the carburetor may become stuck in the mixture with excess gasoline. To remove the part, it is necessary to unscrew the fastening nuts, disconnect the ignition and traction from the engine control lever. Then they remove the lever. Then you can remove the filter and carburetor.

The silencer is fixed with two nuts. You need to untwist them and pull the muffler towards you. Then unscrew the screws of the coil and dismantle it. At the Stihl saw, the carburetor has 1 idle adjustment screw. If the idle speed is violated, then a carburetor repair is needed. This is a complex process, it is difficult to do it yourself. Contact a repair shop.

Starter Cord Replacement

Remove the side cover. Inspect the inside of the protective cover. If there is no damage, check the launch unit. Unscrew the starter bolt and remove the spring. Diagnose a pulley with a cord. If the rope is intact, then each launch mechanism check is checked:

The starter cord is made of synthetics and gradually wears out. If it is damaged, has cracks or tears, then you need to replace it.

Finally, I was going to write the ending about repairing the Stihl 180 saw. All the main things are already written in STIHL 180 chainsaw repair photo report (Part 1)
Now I’m adding some assembly points

The main thing is not to rush, double-check whether you are collecting everything correctly. See YouTube on this topic. It’s better to see once. Since the repair, the saw is working fine.
If you have questions, write.

Tags: Stihl chainsaw repair

Comments 40

Yesterday, for some reason, the crankshaft bearings jammed during start-up. I disassembled the dirt there and washed all the matters and greased them. Everything began to spin. Collected in the reverse order. The saw does not start; there is a spark; benz is coming. There is a current of one BUT. Assembled on a transparent silicone sealant. Collected and an hour later began to try to start. Is silent. And poured zero under the candle too. Maybe it does not start due to bad sealing? The new saw was working 5 times in total.

Dirt in the bearing means dirt in gasoline! I don’t even know, try another sealant. But most likely the reason is not that!

In the first part of the photo you can see a bottle of oil 80% that they are singed because of this and badass

How did you determine that it was singed?

Color capacity print quality. Well, a singed right away.

Well you “expert”!
1) The label is not really visible in the photo, but you saw the print quality and determined the fake, or rather, I SAW DIRECTLY)
2) The color of the bottle may distort the camera as you like, depending on the white balance settings and the sensitivity of the camera itself.
3) The oil was not bought at the market, but from an STihl OFFICIAL DEALER together with a saw!

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Here even the chainsaws will be repaired))). And they say the site is automobile. I also have Stihl, 290 ms, and parsing the current oil hose changed

Good chainsaw. Has been working for me since 2008 and there are no problems. Sawing about 12 cubic meters per year for heating a house.

It somehow looks more or less, she’s a very mini-bikini # 128521;

Perfectly described everything, read both parts! He himself sorted out Stihl-just stuck the piston assembly in the Chinese, it works the second year, namely the year, since working on cutting firewood for barbecue in a cafe, the flight is normal, so sometimes Chinese parts come across good quality # 128578;

Maybe China is good. I did not take risks)

Perfectly described everything, read both parts! He himself sorted out Stihl-just stuck the piston assembly in the Chinese, it works the second year, namely the year, since working on cutting firewood for barbecue in a cafe, the flight is normal, so sometimes Chinese parts come across good quality # 128578;

Hello! Can you clarify which ones? It is also necessary.

Bought from neighbors with a broken piston. I want to restore. He says the wedge gave Stihl. As I understand it, because of his stupidity, he wanted to push the piston through the candle hole. But not fate. On the piston badass.

I don’t remember the name prshneva anymore, it was a long time ago, took it from us in the market, chose the most qualitatively made one, the saw file is still sawing

What needs to be changed except for the piston group?

The piston one that I took had bearings and seals in the kit, I did not change the bearings, my relatives were livelier than all the living ones, I eventually replaced the piston and the seals, the knee was also alive, for money it turned out something around 800r in a circle, including sealant, I advise you before to dismantle the experimental purchase, and write a list of what needs to be replaced))

I agree. Thank. Just the question again. And how to remove the cooling drum and clutch mechanism? Is there a right-hand thread on both sides of the crankshaft?

The piston one that I took had bearings and seals in the kit, I did not change the bearings, my relatives were livelier than all the living ones, I eventually replaced the piston and the seals, the knee was also alive, for money it turned out something around 800r in a circle, including sealant, I advise you before to dismantle the experimental purchase, and write a list of what needs to be replaced))

1 per “disassemble and burn” Burn, fuck! Write, not remember)))

Do not tell me where the idle adjustment is located. The saw does not start, starts only when I hold the gas, let the gas go stalling.

The idle speed adjustment is located on the right side of the saw (position for cutting). There is a round hole in the handle (top). Try to turn clockwise with a screwdriver from the set. Another point, disassemble the carburetor, clean, I had the same problem. Pay attention to the felt filter. Good luck.

Thanks for the answer., I’ll try to clean and adjust on the weekend.

And how to remove the cooling drum and clutch mechanism? Is there a right-hand thread on both sides of the crankshaft?

The piston is not brought to TDC by about a third, into the hole of the plug we stuff a cord like a starter (leave the tail out) and press the piston into TDC. And carefully turn away.

The thread is left! Thanks for the advice!

Good report !, very well done! If you allow a couple of remarks, firstly you don’t need to seal the hose with a sealant, you need to blow it and wipe it I don’t know who said that this is a sore spot of 180 calm (the sore spot is the compensator on the gas tank and on the oil tank, the pipette is so green) and with such scuffs you need to carefully look at the thickness piston skirts, if after grinding with sandpaper it’s thin, it doesn’t pass for a long time there on the edge with a large working out, a small mark appears on it and look at the thickness) and, most importantly, HEAT SEED APPEARS ONLY FROM Poor-quality gas mixture and NOT T NEPROGREVA! These SAWS DO NOT HEAT THEY ARE CONSTRUCTED THAT YOU CAN WORK IMMEDIATELY, but after repairing the engine they need to be run in. That is, they will work in normal mode but for a short time, it doesn’t need to cut firewood immediately)))))

I repaired the same one with heat scuffing from overheating by a curved-armed user, as it turned out full throttle at high load. Min revolutions and min blowing, were Bosch by replacing the rings, tweaking the grooves for them on the piston, and 1 mm teflon foil was cut off at the very bottom of the cylinder.

It should only work at full throttle! And the whole trouble of bullies is when the old mixture is either diluted a little with fresh or not diluted at all and loaded as much as possible, then the effect of working on pure gasoline from this aluminum piston is

I agree, but he did not let her spin up, especially in the heat, about the mixture and kept silent, as usual in the service: what you did with the product. Nothing, you will understand, and there pipets.

I completely agree constantly such situations))) all that they did according to the instructions))))

Good report !, very well done! If you allow a couple of remarks, firstly you don’t need to seal the hose with a sealant, you need to blow it and wipe it I don’t know who said that this is a sore spot of 180 calm (the sore spot is the compensator on the gas tank and on the oil tank, the pipette is so green) and with such scuffs you need to carefully look at the thickness piston skirts, if after grinding with sandpaper it’s thin, it doesn’t pass for a long time there on the edge with a large working out, a small mark appears on it and look at the thickness) and, most importantly, HEAT SEED APPEARS ONLY FROM Poor-quality gas mixture and NOT T NEPROGREVA! These SAWS DO NOT HEAT THEY ARE CONSTRUCTED THAT YOU CAN WORK IMMEDIATELY, but after repairing the engine they need to be run in. That is, they will work in normal mode but for a short time, it doesn’t need to cut firewood immediately)))))

I agree. The run-in was carried out on small works (branch boards). Strongly did not load. Regarding warming up, the issue is still controversial. Any engine requires warming up, at least 30-60 seconds. On my trimmer, the Echo with a 2-stroke engine in the instructions is directly prescribed to warm up a little before work.