The drill breaks the reasons for the case. Device and malfunctioning of an electric drill

Electric appliances in the kitchen are shocked: what’s the reason

The human body produces electricity every day to maintain breathing, heartbeat and muscle work. It is safe for health, because the body is not able to accumulate a charge. But regular sparkles from clothes, bedding, carpets and even furniture not only cause constant discomfort, but also dry the skin, and due to accumulation of the charge on electrical appliances, you can get a serious injury. The expert told why things in the house suddenly unleashed the war against you.

Head of the Elektrotovaras Department “Leroy Merlen”

Reasons why household appliances are beating

Violation or no grounding. In this case, you can not try to attach faulty grounding to metal elements through the housing of household appliances yourself.

Drilling Animation

The absence of a potential alignment system also leads to that household appliances can be beaten by current.

Damage to isolation is one of the causes of current when contacting the device.

Electromagnetic field voltage creation.

Current leak due to a decrease in insulation resistance.

Insulation breakdown due to long.term operation.

Network of household appliances in the network.

The increased level of humidity in the room also leads to the fact that the technique begins to fight current. This is mainly in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

Electric wiring malfunction. This can happen in any room, especially in old houses.

Malfunction of the electric appliance motor.

Diagnosis of a drill in haste

To find out exactly why your drill broke or what is wrong with an electric screwdriver, you need to give the tool for diagnostics to the service center. But there are many direct and indirect features by which you can approximately find out in which knot there were problems.

  • If the drill does not turn on at all (and does not even buzz), then the problems are almost one hundred percent lies in the electric part. over, a problem can be of any scale: from funny (clogging of contacts on the button) to large (burning of the engine or electronic control unit).
  • If the power tool works somehow, with interruptions, and desperately sparkles, then the problem is most likely in the area of ​​the anchor, collector or brushes. It is with the collector-target node that most malfunctions are associated, due to which drills and screwdrivers are not as good as they expect from them.
  • If strange sounds appeared during work, which were not there before (squeak, crunch, howl), or strange vibrations and beating appeared, then the problem is probably related to the mechanical part. “Screech”, for example, can “crunch”. gears, and “knock”. a shaft or a cartridge.
  • If the drill engine is buzzing, and the cartridge does not rotate, then the reason is certainly a breakdown of the gearbox or jamming of the shaft. A faulty gearbox and a jamming shaft can also cause a drill to twist the drill not as fast as we would like, but an electric screwdriver. rotates the bat with the effort that is supposed to.
  • If the drill power has fallen for no apparent reason, then this may be due to increased losses: mechanical or electrical. In some cases, the cause of power falling can be clogged bearings that do not rotate as free as before. Sometimes a problem consists in burnt windings of the anchor, due to which the resistance in the circuit increases, and the engine becomes unable to develop its passport power.
  • If the drill overheats, smokes or smells of a steam, then the problem can be any: mechanical, electric, clogging, wear or banal damage due to inaccurate operation. Often, the reason also lies in the fact that someone decided to “set the heat” and put on the instrument to the loads for which he simply was not designed.

So, we briefly figured out why the drill, electric screwdriver or peorator could work poorly. Then we will consider the typical causes of malfunctions in more detail and divide them into several categories: from easily eliminated problems to cases where the repair is inappropriate.

Not a breakdown at all

Some problems with drones and screwdrivers can not even be called malfunctions. Such annoying troubles include the wear of collector brushes. Graphite brushes are consumables (sometimes drills are sold immediately with a spare kit). They are more or less standardized, often interchangeable (running dimensions are suitable for the tool of different brands) and are literally a penny. Many drifts do not even need to open the body to replace brushes. This can be done without disassembling the power tool if the manufacturer for accessing inside has provided special windows covered with plugs. A powerful power tool, such as peorators, is even equipped with indicators that suggest that it is time to engage in the replacement of coal brushes.

If the indicator is absent, then the brushes themselves will give the green to know that they have worn out. The most striking (in the literal and figurative sense) sign of wear are powerful sparks that are visible through the slots of the case and ventilation holes. An indirect feature is the work of the tool with interruptions and jerks. Sparking occurs due to the fact that the brushes are not fully pressed to the collector. Sparking is accompanied by heat release. In addition to the smoke and smell of burning, which accompany the spark, the danger lurks in the fact that due to overheating, collector plates can be deformed and disappeared from the base of the collector. That is, without changing the brush in time, you can easily “rest” the engine anchor.

The “visual effects” described above are almost never in drifts and screwdrivers with browned engines. They generally have many advantages over tools with traditional engines (though the price is considerable). If something lightly sparkles inside a bronnial electric screwdriver under load, then this is the engine brake (and this is quite a normal phenomenon, not a malfunction).

How to find a malfunction and repair an electric drill

The shock drill is able to perform conventional drilling only with a blow. The gearbox of such devices can have both one or two speeds. As additional functions, there are reverse progress and the ability to set the desired idle speeds.

The shock drill has two braids that are in contact with the usual work of the drill. Когда необходимо выполнить сверление с ударом, то одна шестерня перемещается, таким образом, образовывая зазор с впереди стоящей шестерней. Next, the back gear remains motionless, and the one in front begins to slide along the teeth and move the cartridge up and down. This is how many shock drills are created. In this case, the number of such blows can be 40,000 in one minute.

It is worth noting that the drill shock function should be used only in the most emergency cases. If the drill is constantly used with a shock function, then very soon the shock mechanism may fail. It’s all about the gears that soon or later stand up and the shock mode of operation will disappear.

A tool such as a shock drill is an indispensable assistant in construction. For example, she can blame a brick without problems. As for concrete, the performance of the shock drill depends on the brand of concrete in which you need to drill a hole.

Suppose with 300 TOI brand of concrete, from which the internal partitions of the premises are usually erected, the shock drill copes perfectly. But this cannot be said about the 400th brand of concrete, which is involved in the construction of the supporting walls. In this case, it is necessary to use the peorator.

The electric drill is the most popular electrical tool during any repair, so it often fails in view of frequent and intensive use. If there are basic skills and the experience of repairing such tools, it will not be very difficult to repair the drill.

Possible malfunctions of a shock drill

There can be several causes of breakdowns of this kind of tool, there is an opinion that the main reason is the improper operation of the drill or not the “firmness” of the tool, in the view of which its insides consists of low.quality components. Among other more technical reasons, one can distinguish the following:

The failure of the mobile part of the electric motor, its stator or anchor;

Wear of collector brushes and their burning;

The wire break in the cord, in the drill itself or on the coil of the engine;

Reducer breakdown or clamping cartridge itself.

How to find what a malfunction

In order to understand the reason for the breakdown, sometimes it happens that it is not immediately visible, for example, the drill simply does not rotate. The inspection begins with a supply cord, often in view of intensive operation, the cord is interrupted either in the plug area or where. something else. Also inspect the button and various controls. Try to turn out the cartridge.

All diagnostic procedures end on this, the drill needs to be disassembled to access and inspect it from the inside. To do this, unscrew (all) screws around the perimeter of the drill housing and remove the upper half of the case. When twisting the screws, we pay attention to their length and remember in which openings of the screws what length were, it is easier to leave them immediately in the removed part of the case.

We examine the power cable and internal wiring for fences, cliffs and reliability of the contact connection. In the place where the power cable is included in the drill housing, you can often see the damaged outer insulation layer, its rupture, and the power cord itself is ultimately twisted.

If you have a faulty button or a reverse switch, then it is easier to replace with a new. You can certainly disassemble, clean the contacts, but it will be troublesome, many small spare parts and springs that strive to jump out everything.

One of the most common types of breakdown is the wear of the engine brushes, their replacement can be easily done at home. Sometimes, the brushes can be replaced without disassembling the drill housing, if the design allows.

In some models, it is enough to unscrew the plugs from the installation windows and install new brushes. Other models have a disassembly of the case for replacement, in which case it is necessary to carefully remove the brush holders and extract worn brushes from them.

A characteristic feature of a malfunction of electric grinders is a strong sparking and not stable operation of the electric motor when it works with interruptions or jerks. What comes from unstable electric contact between brushes and plates on the collector.

Do not also allow the brushes to worn to the minimum size. This is dangerous in that between the brush and the collector plates the clearance may increase. As a result, increased sparking occurs, collector plates are very warm and can “move” from the base of the collector, which will lead to the need to replace the anchor.

It is necessary to regularly clean the collector’s plates from the soil and constantly check the stretching of the brushes to the collector drum. Other malfunctions of the electric part can manifest itself in the form of a lack of rotation of the drill engine when there are no signs of the engine turning on (no buzzing).

If the drill does not turn on and its cartridge is easily turned by the usual effort, then you can most likely assume a malfunction of the electrical part.

Checking the concreteness of the cause is made as it is affordable, the network cord, the speed control button, the start.up capacitor and the engine winding are simply nicknamed the multimeter in the resistance mode.

Among the electrical faults, a breakdown of the anchor can be noted. A breakdown of the anchor or stator occurs for two reasons. improper operation and low.quality motor wire. Global manufacturers use a high.quality wire with double insulation and heat.resistant varnish, which at times increases engine reliability and can significantly extend the temporary resource of your drill. Cheap models do not withstand prolonged and intense robots with overheating.

DIY drill repair

In order to find a malfunction, the drill needs to be disassembled.

How to disassemble the tool

Some drills have an additional handle and a drilling depth limiter.

Additional handle and drilling depth limiter

It is necessary to relax the mounting of the clamp and pull the handle through the cartridge.

In other models, an additional handle is screwed into the drill housing.

An additional handle is screwed into the drill housing

If there is a lining on the drill handle connecting two halves of the case, then it is pushed by a flat screwdriver and removed.

  • Unscrew the entire fasteners and remove the upper part of the body. Please note that two screws in the place where the case holds the shaft of the cartridge, in shorter than the rest.
  • Unscrew the screws fastening the cord to the body. The wires and other components of the drill gently remove from your grooves.

A cartridge with a shaft and a large gear 2 is easily disconnected from the drill housing. Remove the metal case of the gearbox 1 together with the engine. There is a ball on the shaft that cannot be lost, because it will be difficult to choose the same.

Roughnecks at Work in HD. Drilling Rig Pipe Connection

Remove the gearbox body from the electric motor spindle.

drill, breaks, reasons, case, device

Replacing brushes

Signals for checking the condition of the brushes are sparking in the collector area, reducing revolutions and heating the drill. If these problems are not, then the condition of the brushes must be checked periodically. When worn at least one of the brushes by 40 percent change both. Disassemble the drill housing. Brushes are extracted along with brush holders. In some models there are plugs on the case that are displayed.

The brush is removed from the brush holder and a new.

Turning button, smooth start and speed controller

The drill revolution regulator can be combined with a smooth start or displayed into a separate wheel on the case, or the wheel is installed on the start button.

The device and the principle of operation of the button with the speed regulator:

    When the trigger is pressed, the sliding plates 2 move, sliding along the resistor strips 3 located on the electronic board. Contact group 1 springs are squeezed.

If the drill does not have a revolution regulator, then the circuit is similar, but without a wheeled.

The revolution regulator, as well as a smooth start, fails due to the malfunction of the microcircuit. If it is located separately from the power button, disassemble the case, disconnect the contacts and replace it with a new. If the regulator is installed on the button, disassemble the housing and remove the power button from it.

    Put the multimeter in the call mode. Attach the probes to the input terminals of the power button and press the button. In this case, the sound signal should be made. If it is not, the button must be replaced.

Two up two screws that press the network cable not to the end. Remove the wires.

Insert the pin into the hole with the wire running from the stator. And remove the wire with the pin. With the second stator wire, do the same.

Replacing the button is easier than to disassemble and repair it, because it has many small details in it. But if you decide, carefully disassemble the button body so as not to lose jumping springs.

Contact sites are erased and dust forms that settles inside a plastic box. Dielectric surfaces become electric current conductors. Because of this, the turnover and smooth start are not adjusted. Remove metal dust with cotton with alcohol. Contacts can be curtained with a knife, but not with sandpaper, so as not to spoil their surface.

Remove the microcircuit from the other half of the button case. Call all the elements. Replace the damaged.

Often internal cleaning of the button body restores its operation.

Reverse does not work or the drill does not twist to the right

With direct rotation of the rotor, the end of the first winding of the stator is connected to the first brush. With the second to the second. This switch occurs in the reverse button. If the drill stops twisting in one direction or another, then the chain does not close. It is necessary to diagnose a button and, in case of a malfunction, replace it or disassemble and clean the contacts.

The reverse is nicknamed in several visits:

  • Set the reverse flag in the right position.
  • Insert the probe of the multimeter in two holes on one side of the reverse button. Check the presence of the sound signal of the device. Now insert the probes in two holes on the other side. There is a sound signal on both sides, which means that the right position of the reverse works.
  • Now install the reverse in the left position.

Insert the probes into two holes, but on the other side of the button. Then in the other two holes. Check the multimeter sound signal.

If at least at least one stage there was no call, the button is faulty. You can disassemble it. If in both positions of the switch the contacts close, then clean them and call them again. If it did not help, then replace the button.

Take the pin, insert it into the hole and remove the wire. Remove all wires in the same way.

Wires from the stator and brushes are brought to the reverse. They are connected diagonally, so draw a diagram, so as not to confuse. Or glue with tape to each wire tag.

Connecting a drill to a cable without a button

Dismantle the power button. It includes two veins of the network cable. If the drill had a reverse, then two wires leave the stator and brushes. It turns out four. To connect them with two veins of the network cable, do the following:

Damage to mechanics

As for the mechanical part, there are breakdowns of the gearbox and support bearings.

In the case of the gearbox, it is necessary to inspect all the gears, smoothly turning them with a hand. Seats and teeth should be intact. Otherwise, the gears must be changed.

Bearing is checked by holding the inner shaft with one hand and turning the outer part of the bearing with the second hand. The whole bearing should spin freely, not vibrate and not play. If there are vibrations or backlash, then the bearing is changing. If you just spin badly, then you can try to add grease to it

These are the main causes of drill breakdowns. If it does not work for you, then you can sequentially check all the nodes according to the above instructions. with a high probability you will find in this way a malfunction. This work is actually simple, so you can not worry that you will not succeed. And this text has come to an end. Until new meetings!

How to disassemble an electric screwdriver for repair

In order to disassemble the device, take the following steps:

  • Gently disconnect the start button from the body without damaging the wires connecting it with the engine;
  • remove the speed switch;
  • Discharge the engine, gearbox, coupling and cartridge, unscrewing 4 screws;

To unscrew the cartridge, you need to twist the screw that can be seen inside the mechanism with fists of flesh. Unscrew the screw clockwise, because it is on the left thread. After that, the cartridge must be unscrewed from the gear shaft, turning it to the left (right thread).

How an electric screwdriver works

Before repairing any device, you need to know how it works, the logic of its work, the interaction of the nodes and details with each other.

The principal constructive schemes for all screwdrivers are little different from each other. This device consists of:

  • Corps in which all other devices nodes are installed. This part is made of metal or plastic-Bosch GSR 10.8-2-Li, BlackDecker BDCDD12B, etc. There are models that use these two materials at the same time.
  • A single.phase collector engine with an electronic control system. direction of rotation and speed adjustment, selection of mode of operation. twisting, twisting screws, drilling. The engine consists of a collector and stator. Food is supplied to the collector using spring.loaded copper or graphite brushes.
  • Planetary gearbox with the possibility of limiting torque. The gearbox is installed on the shaft of the electric motor. Depending on the model of electrical screwdriver, this node is made of plastic or metal. The second option is characteristic of professional performance.
  • Cartridge installed on the output shaft of the gearbox.

If this is not a network, but a battery model, then on the handle of the case there are mounts for connecting the battery, providing it with a mechanical connection with the body and electrical communication with the collector engine. Also on the case there is a start button for turning on an electric screwdriver. On some models, with its help, the speed of rotation is also regulated by changing the effort of pressing.

As you can see, there can be electrical and mechanical malfunctions in an electric screwdriver. Consider them in more detail indicating the signs by which it is possible to identify a breakdown.

Why an electric stove hits the current and how it can be fixed

It happens, some time after the installation of an electric stove, it begins to “bite” its owner, that is, for some reason it begins to beat with the current. It can be completely non.inflated blows, but pleasant, of course, is not enough, especially if you touch the stove with your wet hands.

This problem must be eliminated immediately as soon as the first symptoms appeared, otherwise the matter may reach serious and life.threatening injuries. It is impossible to call any one reason here, therefore, diagnostics should be carried out and correctly identified the malfunction root, in order to then eliminate it.

If you are more or less versed in the device of an electric stove and have elementary skills of handling a multimeter and an indicator screwdriver, then, in principle, a simple diagnosis will be possible for you. However, it is important to remember that any repair actions with electrical devices promise a danger if a person does not have experience and qualifications.

It is better to call the masters for servicing plates with a security group of at least the third, he knows for sure the weak places of the electric stove, has appropriate experience, and will probably easily determine what and where it is not so that this is quickly fixed this!

If you decide to get down to business yourself, then remember that it is necessary to observe the safety precautions, the internal inspection of the slab is carried out only. If the plate is turned on, then with wet hands, barefoot or raw clothes you should not touch the stove.

Therefore, first turn off the plate from the network and inspect the isolation of those wires that are in sight, it may be clear right away, and you will not have to disassemble the plate. If, on the external examination, nothing unusual has been revealed, you will have to disassemble the plate and sequentially turning off its nodes, rush the resistance between the electrodes of the fork in the ommmeter mode so that there are no closed circuits left.

Even at the stage of designing an electric stove, everything is done in such a way as to prevent any possible current leaks from its nodes to the case. For this, grounding serves. However, the gap can still appear due to the fact that although everything is regular inside the plate, the ground may be absent from the outside.

The bottom line is that any normal modern outlet has three contacts: “phase”, “zero” and “earth”. But what if there is a “earth” contact, but actually grounding is not connected, or was connected earlier, but then for some reason disappeared?

Grounding could cease to fulfill its function for various reasons: oxidation of the grounding terminals, overheating factor, excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation, the destructive effect of moisture, etc.D. One way or another, it is necessary to check the integrity of the grounding circuit and find out whether the power is grounded?

First, using a multimeter in a voltmeter mode, or using an indicator screwdriver, find the phase and zero outlets of the outlet. Then measure the resistance between the zero of the outlet and the grounding terminal. Resistance should not be significant.

Also, the phase may appear on the plate case even if the grounding in the outlet is properly, but the fork terminal does not contact with the grounding terminal of the outlet. check it. Finally, it will be necessary to call the body of the plate and the grounding terminal on the fork. the resistance should be almost zero. If the problem is revealed at this stage, the electrician will be able to solve it.

We check the integrity of the insulation

Violation in isolation can also cause the phase on the plate case. Insulation can be violated both in contacts and on connecting wires. The integrity of the contacts is checked by a multimeter when the slab is turned off, and an indicator screwdriver is suitable for localizing the phase leakage and on the plate components and on the units. Remember that the plate turned on, in the process of operation an indicator screwdriver, you can’t touch with your bare hands with your bare hands!

Having identified the phase leakage place, then it will be possible to easily find the part of the stove, inside which the phase breaks through, so this part needs to be repaired or replaced.

Faulty (broken) heating elements can also cause voltage on the plate housing. Most often, the oven begins to sin. The heater can heat up and work almost as usual, but the breakdown will take place and cause some current through a vulnerable place. In this case, it is necessary to completely replace the broken heater. The heating wizard can be replaced.

Incredible, but periodically arising reason for the appearance of alternating voltage on the plate case, is a breakdown of the capacitor, designed to smooth out pulsed interference. This capacitor is installed next to the pulse power supply, if any in the stove. The current breaks through the case of a faulty capacitor to the plate case and leads, although not very large, but tangible and unpleasant to the touch, alternating tension. A breakdown capacitor must be replaced.

The restoration of the Soviet drill.

I found such a drill IE-1003 in the garage in the garage.Grandfather tells her about 40 years old, or even more, a good solid tool but with shock is beating. Well, when I see her, I thought it was a blaster from films about the space of the USSR. In general, I insert it into the outlet, press the button twists and invigorates butt. Well, I decided to revive her, sort out and refresh her. In general, I like the instrument and things of the times of the 50-70s something cosmic in them, something from the future is.So what happened

Of course, nothing was immediately unscrewed, the cartridge was jammed, the bearings are all in dust, and inside the bare contacts. I wonder that grounding comes out of the case, but does not reach the fork.The bolts dismissed in vinegar, the case polished the sandpaper with sandpaper with 200, 400, 600 granular paper and felt with the paste of Goi. The wires changed everything in order to exclude the circuit, since they were torn. The cartridge broke out in the ATF and voila, he was like new. In general, what happened.

The brushes have not come yet, but the truth works on the old ones and smacks of as the rest on them is not large. In general, I liked this restoration case, especially such interesting things. I will be glad to hints, what else to do in that spirit. Well, in general, evaluations of the work done.By the way, friends who do not understand anything in the instrument and in general what is done with their hands, they ask what kind of nya cosmic

Комментарии и мнения владельцев 148

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PVS wire change to kg (black, in the rubber membrane). The vinyl wire for the power tool is very poorly suitable, because in the cold it becomes tough, and with the minus it can completely break. And the rubber is not afraid of either cold or heat.

Ahahah kapets, I have the same at home, Near Near bought a new one of such dnipro-m.UA/TOVAR/DREL-UDARNAYA-HD-92/, it is somehow calmer for it to work.

Remained the same from the and also beats the current, lies while waiting for his hour to repair.

This was lying in the country, mother handed over to metal. While he was alive, pulled the heat shrink on the case and pen, drilled in dry slippers.

The same electric drilling machine is lying in the garage, at one time it worked paired on a stratka in production (when drilling in materials with temporary resistance. 45 kgf/mm2), was grounded with the machine (it was Not grounded as it should be) I tried to use it. an extremely uncomfortable machine, by the way, here is mine:

A lot of Soviet drifts passed through me. How are the necrophils of all stripes love them :).I myself use the screwsmire Metabo in the work. And such a necrimate is extremely inconvenient to work, a lot is done through the ass.

The same for 300 RE at the flea market took.It seems to be timid

Some simple makita will cost 5. Why the dick of these works of the necromancer, I can’t understand.

It’s not a matter of a drill I have wired Milwaukee, and Shurik and Pintorteret is a tool in the instrument

A person wants to feel the difference how good it was then and how bad now.))

Some simple makita will cost 5. Why the dick of these works of the necromancer, I can’t understand.

Yes, here not for the sake of the drill itself, but it was precisely to fix the author who was interesting.

There was such a drill, good and reliable, at first I also felt the presence of tension on the case, initially there was a thick three.wire cable kg 3×1.5, after I replaced it, the case on the case disappeared from the word completely and the drill could be normally used

Apparently, somewhere there was a grounding vein in a cliff. Kg. the most optimal wire for power tools.

The joke is that there is no grounding in the apartment in which I then shobashi is completely from the word))))), not to ground a gas pipe, and after replacing the cable, even when connected to an unprocessed outlet, there was no cable, although the cable put a three-wire-resistant. the same rubber kg, I put it on the whole tool, these native plastic wires have already hesitated

It is sad when there is no grounding: (it is not necessary to ground a gas pipe, usually grounding is present on a box with a counter.And plastic wires are a separate pain.

Well, this is the old Soviet house-nine-story nine-story building made of silicate brick, the shields and riser are standard for houses of that time with gas, there was no grounding there, rather a bonfire, a machine gun for an apartment, and one of them only nourishes a kitchen and a bulb in the hallway. and the second and loser of the apartment I will completely get these wires, in the winter they break in the cold like matches, and they themselves also break due to twisting, short ones, you have to carry extensions forever extensions

Throw out the fuck from sin.As far as I remember this crap, you can use through the untying transformer with the grounding of the case.Now this class of protection does not produce the tool at all, or rather without protection at all.

I look at the machines completely from metal through the transformer everyone works

I look at the machines completely from metal through the transformer everyone works

There is a ground tire on a metal machine.And do you have? Then and it.

The reasons

In the rotor windings, transitional processes occur due to intermittent mechanical contact of brushes with the collector plates, which is the cause of small arcs for the formation of small arcs.

Important: a completely working engine does not exclude sparking during operation. There are other reasons that cause severe sparking and create the likelihood of an electric motor breakdown.

Wear of the brushes

With prolonged operation or low.quality material, they cease to tightly press against the contacts of the collector. Due to poor contact, the engine does not gain momentum or does not immediately start. A worn brush is easy to determine visually.

Fix the situation, replacing only a worn part, sometimes fails. The replacement of the brush holder and spring should be made.

Closing in the anchor winding

The consequence of such a defect is uneven sparking on the collector. On some plates it will be stronger than on others. Due to the presence of inter-flood-circuit, the current in separate sections of the rotor winding will be stronger than in others.

drill, breaks, reasons, case, device

Ringing the rotor or its replacement will eliminate the malfunction.

Malfunction in the stator winding

A defect similar to the circuit of the rotor winding, takes place for the stator winding. You can check the presence of resistance to the parts of its windings. With strong difference, it is necessary to rewind the winding or replace.


The products of brushes wear are graphite dust, it is an additional source of increased sparking. Dust accumulation occurs between the plates, which creates additional conditions for the process of sparks. Preventive work on cleaning the collector with sandpaper and cleaning the dirt between the plates will save it in its pure form.

The brushes are incorrectly installed

If the brushes are located with a deviation from the norm to the surface of the collector, a significantly larger amount of graphite dust is formed during operation. Evdated brushes must be corrected.

Bad contact of brushes with a collector

The electric motor is carried out by the operational time in overheating. Under such conditions, the collector is formed. Poor contact leads to an increase in the sparking of brushes and even greater soot.

It is necessary to clean the surface of the collector with sandpaper with fine grain. Use electric screwdriver to increase the cleaning effect. Squeeze the engine rotor into the cartridge and at low speeds, perform a skin with a bunker. After you need to finally paste it on the felt circle.

Mechanical disorders

Mechanical reasons are caused by non-compliance with the requirements of design and technological documentation. Most of the mechanical reasons are eliminated by the collector groove on the lathe. The implementation of this repair operation is trusted by a qualified specialist. Here are some types of malfunctions that can indicate a breakdown:

  • The surface of the collector is uneven;
  • The shaft of the shaft exceeds the value specified in the technical documentation;
  • Separate collector plates stand as a common level for everyone;
  • A ledge of isolation (mica);
  • Brushes in the brush holders move with jamming;
  • On the contrary, the brushes are inserted into the brush holders with a large gap, which creates vibration during operation;
  • The brush holders are installed far from the collector;
  • Uneven springs tension, as a result, the difference in the effort of brushes.

What to do if the drill sparkles

If you use a drill or a pedorater in everyday life or work, you must have encountered such a phenomenon as sparking in the area of ​​the collector-base node-where there are always ventilation holes. But what to do if the drill sags greatly? What does this phenomenon mean, what are its reasons, and how to get rid of it?

About the causes of sparking and the ways of getting rid of it and we will talk in this article. We will consider the main causes of sparking, and also offer simple typical methods for eliminating these reasons.

Drinks and peorators, as a rule, have a collector engine rotor as a drive, whose stator is part.

It is not surprising that under such conditions the collector engine is very vulnerable, especially since there are loaded rubbing parts subject to wear: brushes rub on the lamellas (copper plates) of the collector, and through the ventilation holes on such an important node, mud gets one way or another.

Meanwhile, the causes of sparking can be different, but in any case, if the drill sparkles beyond measure, then it requires an early repair.

It is worth noting that moderate sparking is a normal concomitant phenomenon when operating any high-speed collector engine, because almost a collector-minute node is a mechanical switch that works under high voltage with a non-linear load, for this reason sparks always skip from time to time in this node. To protect the network from high.frequency interference caused by the operation of the brushes, there is a capacitor in the entrance circuit of the drill.

If sparking is pronounced, if there is a smell of burning, or when clicking on the Drill button does not always work, but only with an addition of additional strength, then there is a serious malfunction that needs to be eliminated.

The drill sparkles, does not develop full power, is unstable

Check the degree of wear of the brushes as follows. Using a screwdriver with a dielectric handle, press the brush in turn to the collector. Press the start button and press the brush to the collector. If there is a tangible “walking” of brushes when you press them with a screwdriver, and during the click of the brush the drill begins to issue full power, then the matter is in worn brushes.

Replace the brushes with new ones, preferably with the holders, so that holders and brushes interact normally. Когда искрение только начинает ярко себя проявлять, проведите диагностику щеток, и в случае необходимости позаботьтесь заранее о покупке новых. The blackening of the collector is a clear sign of worn.out brushes.

drill, breaks, reasons, case, device

Everything is in order with brushes, but the sparking and smell of Gary are present

Most likely the collector’s lamellas and the space between them was very polluted. It is necessary to clean the collector. Take the smallest sandpaper Paper Nuleka and clean the collector. If there is an opportunity to clamp the rotor (anchor) in a lathe and rotate it for more efficient cleaning with sandpaper. it is best to take this opportunity.

If there is no turning machine at hand, then clean the lamellas manually. The space between the lamellas is not conducting, and dielectric gaskets could also be contaminated with metal dust, so pay attention to these places. clean the gaskets between the lamellas, using a knife or cutter.

The entire collector cleaning procedure is best performed, of course, using a lathe or at least using another drill or electric screwdriver, where you can squeeze the rotor of the repair drill and rotate it at low speed during the cleaning process, pressing the sandpaper to the collector.

Sparking is accompanied by an overheating of the tool

The windings of the anchor and the stator should be completely intact. And strong sparking accompanied by overheating may just be a symptom of malfunction in the anchor or stator windings. The fact is that manufacturers of a poor.quality tool could save on a wire with high.quality insulation, and this isolation eventually led.

Perhaps in the winding of the anchor there was an internal intortion. Check the anchor windings with an ohmmeter, calling each of the two opposite lamels each of its windings, the resistance of all the windings of the anchor should be equal to each other.

Check the stator winding with an ohmmeter. its resistance must comply with the documentation of the manufacturer, otherwise the winding is faulty, and there is a risk that it will soon burn out completely. In the case of expediency, it is necessary to rewind a faulty winding, otherwise. buy a new drill.

The drill starts unstable, works with failures

Check if the power wires have frayed, they can be dolls, and the drill from this can work unstable. Use the ohmmeter. call the power wires to the start key itself, twitch them while checking if the resistance of at least one of them is changing. Check along the way the integrity of the capacitor at the entrance if he is there. This capacitor protects the network from interference caused by the operation of the brushes.

In conclusion, we note that if you use exactly a household drill, and not a powerful industrial peorator, then you do not need to forcefully try to drive a drill into the surface in the process of drilling, which you drill. Use high.quality drills, do not overload the drill in vain. When overloading the tool, even its high.quality parts can burn out. You need a lot of power. purchase a more powerful drill in accordance with your needs.

The causes of the malfunction

#3 Guest_amadama_

The equipment was not shocked a year before repair, although there was also no grounding. And why then the technique “pinch” not all? And some kind of grounding options already with the repair done?

What to do on its own

If you cannot touch the device without feeling tingling, you do not need to try to fix it yourself without special tools and knowledge. But there are several mandatory things that you not only can, but should also do:

  • Disconnect the electricity. This is the iron rule: you felt a blow from the device, turn off the supply of energy through the shield. And after understand what happened.
  • Check if the water spilled on the device. Inspect the equipment, check the outlet. There should be no water anywhere. Wipe all the parts with a paper towel, if necessary, dry all the details with a hairdryer.
  • Pull the fork out of the outlet. You need to do this when the whole apartment is de.energized. Otherwise you can get a serious category. When the power of the stove is disconnected, you can return electricity to the house.
  • Call a specialist. Even if you have five in physics, you should not repair the electrical appliance without qualifications. This at best will deprive you of a guarantee, at worst. will lead to irreparable damage to technology and even fire. Masters from Lenbyt should be called.

The same problem = ((made a wiring the technician bites = (((what to do xs. everywhere lies 3 residential wire, all the bumps with the ground

The same problem = ((made a wiring the technician bites = (((what to do xs. everywhere lies 3 residential wire, all the bumps with the ground

In practice, a couple of times there was a similar one once helped the machine gun or in the shield change in places a zero and phase wire. Perhaps your walls are still poor and there is leakage through damaged isolya.And large household appliances unprecedented because it has a network filter that equalizes potatoes through the capacitor on the case.

The same problem = ((made a wiring the technician bites = (((what to do xs. everywhere lies 3 residential wire, all the bumps with the ground

Dunes, during installation, could confuse the zero wire with the ground, you can check the voltage between zero and earth.

Without grounding. this is the problem. Private house, they could have ground during repair. Here’s what to do in the apartment 105-106 of the series on the 8th floor I don’t know

Gender of the tile. Apparently it was put without isolation and waterproofing. Therefore, you will have to ground all the devices. over, according to conservative rules, a separate wire. The sockets are unreliable

The same problem = ((made a wiring the technician bites = (((what to do xs. everywhere lies 3 residential wire, all the bumps with the ground

this cannot be. There are no miracles. There are simply misunderstandings.

The equipment was not shocked a year before repair, although there was also no grounding. And why then the technique “pinch” not all? And some kind of grounding options already with the repair done?

The walls are wetted here and that’s it. Wait. dry

if you want to. The crazy offer.It is necessary to connect zero from the outlet with the device body. there will be one and the same

#10 Guest_amadam_

The equipment was not shocked a year before repair, although there was also no grounding. And why then the technique “pinch” not all? And some kind of grounding options already with the repair done?

The walls are wetted here and that’s it. Wait. dry

The year has passed since the repair has passed, the really did not dry out?


if you want to. The crazy offer.It is necessary to connect zero from the outlet with the device body. there will be one and the same

In no case! Deadly dangerous! If the zero wire is damaged on the shield, then with this scheme the phase will appear on the housing.

Check the wiring in the shield is an incorrect connection of the wine electrician

Dunes, during installation, could confuse the zero wire with the ground, you can check the voltage between zero and earth.

Well no. should not have to be confused Electricians are good.

Maybe there is. you know how repairs are done. the front of the work is said. workers come do everything. Others begin to do so. They will not do it yet

you can check by measuring the voltage between zero and earth.

Maybe there is. you know how repairs are done. the front of the work is said. workers come do everything. Others begin to do so. They will not do it yet

It is impossible not to notice if they made a contour. For the contour it is desirable to dig a trench and bury iron iron pieces of the meter one and a half. Well, or at least drive metal stakes to the place where the earth is sent.

It is impossible not to notice if they made a contour. For the contour it is desirable to dig a trench and bury iron iron pieces of the meter one and a half. Well, or at least drive metal stakes to the place where the earth is sent.

It is impossible not to notice if they made a contour.For the contour it is desirable to dig a trench and bury iron iron pieces of the meter one and a half.Well, or at least drive metal stakes to the place where the earth is sent

As an option, another strip or copper round in a trench along the contour, t.e. long enough and preferably in clay soil.

Everything would be fine, but. some technique (excluding the refrigerator, washing machine, hob) slightly beats the current if you accidentally hurt the inside.

You are now heard by the tips, there are no miracles, especially in physics, it is pinching, it means that the potential is on the case, hence the conclusion, with the technique of trab, you need to call a specialist, let the breakdown look at the case.

#18 Guest_amadam_

Everything would be fine, but. some technique (excluding the refrigerator, washing machine, hob) slightly beats the current if you accidentally hurt the inside.

You are now heard by the tips, there are no miracles, especially in physics, it is pinching, it means that the potential is on the case, hence the conclusion, with the technique of trab, you need to call a specialist, let the breakdown look at the case.

Thank you, try to take the dishwasher. let them look.