The fuel pump on the tiller is not pumping

Fuel system malfunction

There are in addition to a clogged grid and other variants of the fuel system malfunction, which affect the start and operation of the engine. All of the following operating problems can be corrected by the driver himself or by contacting a service center:

  • Gasoline pump burned out engine started and immediately stalled.
  • The injectors are clogged, resulting in insufficient amount of fuel and lubricants.
  • Clogged fuel lines due to low-quality gasoline.
  • Malfunction of the onboard computer, which produced a disconnection of the gasoline pump.

Drivers of regularly serviced vehicles rarely encounter the listed fuel system malfunctions. If the vehicle starts poorly and stalls, it is worth diagnosing the problem by checking the fuel system.

Engine power is down

It often happens that a previously serviceable tractor that has been in service for several years suddenly loses power.

The gas pump does not buzz when you turn on the ignition

The car starts, then not. It does not matter if the car is warmed up or not, or if it has been idle for a day or two, or a couple of minutes. Mystery. The first thing I was worried about the gas pump, took it out and checked. it works. Cleaned the mesh. Reassembled everything started, 5 times in a row started up, worked fine. And then today it wouldn’t start again. Looks like the problem is somewhere in the wiring, called with a tester plug that plugs into the gasoline pump, no voltage. Maybe someone knows where the weak spot. How to correctly find the problem area?

Which one?? fuel pump? which is under the hood? Looked at it, called it, working, even changed their place, the essence of the case does not change.

The immobilizer is present?NATS is called.Maybe it’s dying

It is disconnected, the minus from the gas pump relay fell off, ran it directly, drove until yesterday, now the car does not start at all. starter does not turn, and the panel on the ignition does not light, I do not know what it is, ignition switch definitely works.

I had the same situation, the gas pump pumps when the ignition is turned on, then suddenly, after a short downtime, does not respond at all, does not buzz, silent, as if dead! I spent two days looking for the cause and it turns out the tank cap doesn’t provide the tightness needed for the gasoline pump to work. Replace the cap solved the problem! 550ั€.

Check contacts of the battery and connection with mass, fuses.

I had a gas pump that was dying. The engine stopped working once every two weeks. Stop after 2 hours, maybe start. Took me a long time to figure it out. in the end. replacing the pump helped.

The gas pump is not pumping: Causes and Diagnosis

First of all, if the gas tank is full, the battery is charged, spark plugs are dry and have spark, the starter motor normally cranks the engine, but the engine does not seize, then you should pay attention to the gas pump. A frequent problem is that there is no power to the petrol pump after switching on the ignition. Similar malfunction also occurs in motion, when the power to the gasoline pump is cut off and the engine suddenly stops.

Equally important is how much the gasoline pump is pumping. In other words, the pump can hum and buzz (there is power), but does not create the necessary pressure in the fuel line. Pressure in fuel system with working gasoline pump must be more than 3 bars (it depends on the concrete car model). The pressure is accumulated in the fuel rail and has a value from 300 kPa and above.

To check it, it is necessary to measure the pressure in the fuel rail with a manometer, taking into account the figures, which are the norm for a particular car model. In the example of VAZ injection engines, the pressure at switch on ignition is 3 atmospheres, at idle the indicator is 2.5 atmospheres, when pushing the throttle 2.5. 3 atmospheres. This method will help to accurately determine:

  • The fuel pressure regulator in the fuel rail is faulty;
  • breakage of the petrol pump or a considerable drop in its performance due to wear
  • a heavy contamination of the filters (fuel filter and/or petrol pump screen);

In the second case, the pressure does not increase while pressing the gas, in the last case, the gauge arrow rises, but very slowly or jerkily.

If the pressure drops below the norm, the engine may not start or start with difficulty, it may stall, jerk, run unsteadily and with dips. If it is the pump and not the fuel filter, it is most probably the fuel pump sieve is clogged. In this case it is not necessary to change the gasoline pump itself, as it will be enough to replace or even clean the mesh.

If there is a suspicion that there is no voltage to the gasoline pump, there is a way to quickly check. Just turn the ignition key and listen, because a slight hum of the petrol pump should be audible at the moment the key is turned. If you don’t hear such whirring, it means there is no power to the gasoline pump, there are problems with wiring, etc.ะด.

Also on the general list of possible reasons for the gasoline pump not pumping are:

  • failure of a petrol pump fuse;
  • breakage of gasoline pump relay;
  • Problems with the mass of the gasoline pump;
  • Malfunction of the electric motor of the gasoline pump;
  • oxidation or breakage of contacts and terminals of the gasoline pump;
  • gasoline pump itself is defective;

Wiring to the gasoline pump

On most cars, the wiring to the gasoline pump is three wires: plus, minus, and a wire to read the amount of fuel in the gas tank. If the gasoline pump does not pump, then the cause may be the lack of power.

To check the power to the gasoline pump simply take a 12 volt light bulb by connecting it to the external gasoline pump connector. The control light should come on when the ignition is turned. If this does not happen, then the problem is in the external circuits. If the light comes on it is an indication that the internal contacts of the gasoline pump should be checked.

To check external wiring you should connect in turns positive and negative contacts, which are removed from the socket of fuel pump power supply, to the pump ground. Contacts should also be connected to the gasoline pump relay. If to place the minus contact on the mass and then switch on the ignition and the light turns on, it means that this contact is defective. If the light does not illuminate, there is an obvious problem with the plus side. If you put a contact on the relay and the light turns on then the light bulb probably is damaged on the wire which connects the relay and the gasoline pump.

Electric motor of gasoline pump

If checking the pressure in the fuel rail and the external wiring to the gasoline pump gives positive results, then the gasoline pump motor should be checked. Indicated motor is responsible for gasoline circulation inside the fuel pump.

During checking one should take into account that the terminals on the gasoline pump tend to oxidize, as a result the power is not turned on and the pump does not pump. In this case the motor works, but terminals should be cleaned or resoldered.

Fuel pump ground contact

Problems with the gasoline pump mass may be indicated by the fuel level sensor which malfunctions. Mass may be loose, the gas pump doesn’t pump fuel. The ground wire is usually located under the dashboard and runs along the passenger compartment. It is necessary to find the indicated wire, check and clean all the contacts, then firmly attach the earth to the gasoline pump.

Gasoline pump relay

The gasoline pump relay is often installed near the gasoline pump mass, i.e. under the dashboard. The normally functioning relay allows the pump to build up pressure in the system in a couple of seconds after the ignition and immediately disconnects.

the moment the ignition key is turned the driver hears a characteristic click (relay is on), then a similar click indicates that the gasoline pump relay is turned off. If no such clicks are heard, it indicates a malfunction of the relay or its contacts. Optimal solution is to replace the gas pump relay with a new or other known good device. We should add that the cost of the spare part is quite affordable.

Petrol pump fuse

During diagnostics, it is necessary to check the fuse of the gasoline pump. The 15A fuse is usually located in the fuse box in the underhood and is labeled FUEL PUMP, which means fuel pump.

The fuse of the gasoline pump should be pulled out and inspected at its contact. The integrity of the contact will indicate that the device is normal. A damaged contact would indicate that the gas pump fuse is blown. In this case you need to put a new fuse, which has a very low cost (as in the situation with the gasoline pump relay).

The gasoline pump isn’t pumping! Or the rod is the problem.

Gasoline pump refuses to pump gasoline. In this video Nail Poroshin explains and shows how to check the condition of your gas pump, and explains what is the common cause of the disease. Enjoy watching.

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Elementary I guess, but I’d have to take apart half the car. The fuel intake grid is clogged. once. Air suction in the line. two. The clamps do not hold and because of this the suction. three, the fuel filter or the mesh in the gas pump is clogged. four. Last thing I would have thought of. stem. Ha! “Elementary.”.

You can read about that rod in any manual. By the way, the gas pump fails in the heat just because of improperly adjusted protrusion of this rod, it should be at least 0.8-1.3 mm. It fails because the pump body expands in the heat and moves away from the rod, that is why it is not pumping enough.

I used a Pekar gas pump. It turned out that when the rod protrudes by 1.2. 1.3 mm gasoline pump is “jammed”. Plus the seating surface wasn’t flat. I had to file it down, and put the old, exhausted, “short” rod and thick gaskets. Then everything works fine. The final outreach of the rod. 1 mm. Did I get a bad “Pekar” or are they all like that?

In hot weather, the gas pump fails because it has deformed valves (they are plastic)

Hello Nail Hi, I do internal combustion engine repair and often come across (almost always) the wearing of the piggyback at the eccentric point during defektovki

Nailail, good day! In the beginning of the video it says that the car refuses to go over 100. We have the same thing. I would also add that sometimes 10 km drive in town and then stand at a stoplight somewhere, begin to go, the engine 2-2.Gives 5 revolutions, the car seems to start and then bam! suddenly stops. The reason is probably also in the gas pump and rod?

Well, here’s a ready-made roller, take a bottle and do as I do

If the cam on the roller (pig) drive gasoline pump, a lot of wear, the replacement rod will not help.

Well, take my word for it, I’ve been doing repairs for a long time, this problem has even been studied in universities

Dear Nail, replacing the rod solved the problem?

Good day, dear Nail! If the theme was about the gas pump please tell us if it is possible to align the flange of the cover of the fuel pump Pekar.I mean, the cap’s straight, but the body’s pulled.Or throw it in the trash and buy a new one.Please share your ideas.Regards your subscriber.

Timofey, honey, I’ve never faced with this problem, our car has always been handy and to tell you something, you need to have it, I would have found something out. But I don’t have such a pulled sample. Sincerely, NAIL

Nail, can you tell me about the starter for Ozon, Solex carburetors? The rods, diaphragms, nothing is clear how it works. Maybe there is something to adjust ? Winter is coming ๐Ÿ™‚

Absolutely not.stem strictly 82.5 mm and two medium thickness gaskets and pumps Ida gone with no problem and no need to complicate anything

Nail, good evening. My engine stops working when I’m driving. RPMs are dropping, the car stops and will not start. pumped gasoline hand pump, the car starts, but does not drive more than a kilometer and again all over again. What could be the problem?? VAZ2107

Stanislav interesting movie, watch the clip and ask.i shot it for who? maybe you have the same problem, short rod, or fine filter does not pass the fuel check

Black fouling on the spark plugs. Fills them up. How to adjust the fuel supply?

Slava, the first thing to do is to check if the float is tight ( no fuel in it) “needle. tightness” ; level.- the middle of the inclined rectangle.- “AZON ; ( SOLEK from the plane down the float 26 mm. ” ; Accelerator pump atomizers by standard ( by different diffusers “cam” with excesses within reasonable GDS.- jets. Check the fuel to match the volume of the engine cm/z and you will be happy and enjoy the ride ! Do not forget to adjust the ignition while driving

there are clips on this subject from Nail Magometovich: don’t be lazy to look all the carburetor, in full volume: Mama, don’t be sorry !

HIS EXCELLENCY THE “PUSHER” OF THE GAS PUMP (THE SIZE OF. 82.5 MM )”VAZ.- IN THE BLOCK AGAINST. THE POWER:”: UZAM IN THE BLOCK HEAD. ALSO AGAINST THE PUMP : ZMZ.- THE LEVER RESTS ON THE CAMSHAFT CAM.

Dear Sir, why do you need a car if you don’t have a clue which side the passenger is on and which side the driver is offended? Brother, that’s not your thing ! ! ! ! ! : )))))))). It’s about the location of the rod ! WITH RELEASE DERSU.

The pump has reached the end of its service life. repair! or better replace it with a new one.

My late father used to say;.- “Repair the gas pump.”.- Equals.- darning a leaky condom.- (“then, twins then twins” ; then, twins then twins ! ! ! You have to buy a new one for every last penny you have: You will have many years of trouble-free riding: !

Instead of writing too much, you should have given me a link. I have reviewed absolutely all of Nail’s videos and did not find one specifically about the starters.

Glory with the screws you will adjust the mixture to x. ั…. : The rest of the number.-Adjust the fuel to your own internal combustion engine. through the system GDS And does not ask you for the slightest permission to do so;

Yes, I will definitely put it out, but it is summer, see video diagnostics Crb Ozone and clip gasoline in winter took there everything is explained

Watch the “carburetor diagnostics” video.Don’t try to be rude, Kostya. I don’t like it !

I wasn’t being rude. I just pointed out the excessive text. I’m sorry if anything is wrong. The topic is interesting to me, I enjoy watching the clips and would like to know more about carburetors.

I found it. Thanks a lot, Nail. Just a clip called “Compatibility of gas equipment” so it skipped.

Lyonya Chayke why did not do a review: look interesting your opinion: ?

You can not argue against the argument Vladimir Mikhailovich, it’s true !

Sasha, you see your patient lessons do not pass without a trace Sukhomlinsky just smoking in the sidelines

In general, the carburetor is dead. The fuel in the float, the tube where the fuel comes loose, after turning off the engine continues to pour fuel. I took it off and put the carburetor 21083 (on a Seven) and the car as if changed. It runs like clockwork.

Alexei, thank you for the evaluation. you are a censor

Nail, I’m talking about the Chaika, it accidentally got here. Although the gas pump is also a great video.

unscrew it from the engine and try pumping manually, if it pumps it is all about the rod it is necessary to play with the gaskets or try a new rod

Car Niva gas pump has not changed. The problem has many noticed: At high temperatures outside (heating the engine) stops pumping. A wet rag on the gas pump helps. What’s your advice on what kind of pump? Thanks

Steam plugs from boiling fuel.What’s the cure? ? Doesn’t happen in winter.Producers should add less boiling fractions to petrol (this is a huge profit, the volume is the same, and the specific gravity of fuel).less weight)

The gasoline in Ukraine / Kharkov is not volatile (as in one video), they say “Pekar” to put, it seems there is no such a problem.

Yes, the Leningrad pump (Lencarz=Pekar) reduces the problem but does not eliminate it

Why is gasoline leaking from the carb also because of the gas pump rod? I have to pump up before I start, I’m sick of it.

Let it escape from the pump, even from the hose that feeds the carburetor.Well from the float chamber, where does it go from the submarine.And you do not pump it up, start it up and while the gasoline is going out of the chamber, it will be replaced by the other, pumped up.Try and let me know if you have set the fuel level correctly

Nail! A little background on why I had gasoline in the fuel system. I was driving down the highway, I needed to stop, I shifted off and the engine stalled. I don’t remember how long I stood on the curb and almost lost my battery.I thought it was the gas pump, I bought a new one, it got better, but the idle speed was still off. The solenoid valve was working.I put a new carb, nothing has changed, I still drive with the “choke”.

I’ve been watching your videos on idle speed. can’t change anything. Probably not enough.

Volodya, then just go to Skype, we’ll figure it all out

Adona, can you advise how to align the body and the lid Pechara, salumin, under the press. can not get under, to cut. complete nonsense, thinning the thickness, and the body on the ears oh how little, and the membrane in Pechara, the same as the gasket.It’s cheaper to buy a new one than to play with the old one and then throw it away.

Hi, Nail! With the car VAZ-21099 (carburetor) such trouble: when parked on a slight rise of the hood on the side of the rise, even with the engine running, even with stalled, when you move off rpm drops sharply and the car stalls. It is very difficult to start after that, not from the first time. The problem is after stopping “on the road”. On the normal road all works fine, starts up, even though cold or hot, no slack, no jerking, goes up to 130 fine (further just did not have to disperse).

Changed the gasoline pump Pekar, checked its work, changed the needle valve, new fuel filter (about 100 km), hoses under the hood are relatively new (changed in winter), clamps normally tightened. Hoses from the tank under the body are old, seemingly normal, have not changed (not always possible to go to the pit), new hose clamps put. There is never a trace of gasoline under the car, and the fuel filter is filled with gasoline at most 1,5-2 cm. After a long stop, even on a flat place the filter is almost empty.

carburetors are made of zinc-aluminum-copper alloy

Silumine is an alloy of aluminum and silicon. Chemical composition. 4-22% Si, base. Al, a small amount of impurities Fe, Cu, Mn, Ca, Ti, Zn, and some others. It is used for casting parts in auto, motorcycle and aircraft industry (eg. The machine can be used for the production of crankcases, cylinder blocks, pistons), and for the production of consumer goods (e.g., for the production of steel bars, etc.). heat exchangers, meat grinders).

The density of silumin alloys is 2.5 to 2.94 g/cm3 Compared with aluminum, these alloys are more durable and wear-resistant, but inferior to dural. aluminum-copper alloys.

Well, it wasn’t my idea.There is a clear definition of metals and their alloys in percentage terms, as well as a division of GOST.Silumin.It is a general concept of an alloy of certain components without taking into account the percentage.And what you write. is concrete.I’m using a general term.If the definition of GOST word silumin is used, it is not a garage term))))

But we’ve already started flooding and gone far from the topic.

Generator Fuel Pump Service

Nail, hello!Once again I hope for your helpful advice) The problem with starting the engine.If the car is at least an hour, you can not start the engine until you open the hood and manually rock the handle gasoline pump.And that’s the way it is every time you have to go.When I drive, the car is fine, it does not jerk.Is it the gas pump, carburetor or am I tripping??)Thanks so much in advance!

Nikita dear check the starting clearances there is a roller

Thank you very much, Nail!I’ve already found the roller, I’m studying it.

Hello Nail. Please tell me what may be the cause of my problem. With the onset of cold weather. around 0 degrees and below, my Moskvich stopped starting normally. in a window of a carb (k126n) it is visible, that there is no gasoline. Pumping manually. is not pumping. Then you wait, the gasoline is slowly pumped into the carburettor. (without pumping!). Start. That gasoline is wasted and the engine is stalling again. I’ve done this several times. Then, for some unknown reason, gasoline starts pumping normally and then I go. The pump is a month old. Recardo

Yes Recardo is our company but their pumps are cheap but the quality is not very good Look at the pump valve maybe it fell out I have a roller on the subject look

Ah la in the video, I forgot.well a tenner does not do the weather but a five-tenner can give you a problem already

hint please. pump was rattling in all directions, took it off, changed the repair kit and the pump is not pumping. what can it be?? Daaz 2101 pump, car 2107. I think maybe the plastic is so big and there are grooves in it.

Not the original stem! Probably just pushed in what was there and that’s it! Often happens.

Nail, I have this problem, it is not the rod but the push rod itself (cam), not even ate, but it had some grooves, could you please tell me how to replace it. I would be very grateful.

Hi, Nail! I have an electric gas pump in my Audi100. It is very difficult to get to it. it is in the trunk under the spare very deep inside. I want to check the fuel consumption by pouring gasoline into the tank. (The speedometer doesn’t work, so I can’t check mileage) what should I do? There’s an option to take the fuse out. And there are other options? ั‚.ะต. you need to keep the fuel out of the gas tank.

Recently read on the forum. Anybody have any thoughts on that?? With a mechanical pump without return it is possible. But if it is, it is much better in the heat. Drainage must be necessarily in the tank, otherwise during the formation of vapor stoppers, they will not be removed in the tank and getting back to the pump will break its work. Yes, and when you try to pump fuel from the tank with a dry fuel line, of this will not work. In a continuous (albeit weak) circulation from tank to tank, the pump is fed by a cool portion and really cools. When stopping a hot engine in the heat, without return flow in the area from the pump to the carb needle, the fuel that is in a confined space happens to boil. The pressure of saturated vapors in this area sometimes exceeds the capabilities of the carb valve and causes overflow and difficulties with the subsequent start. The return of this excess pressure bleeds into the tank.

very interesting.I sold the Zhigul a long time ago.but for general information I will subscribe )) will come in handy )

Nail.My question is. I changed the gasoline pump electric.I have a Golf2.So I had a Japanese one.4 bars of pressure and 68 liters.h flow rate.Now put the 0.3 bars and 100 liters.ั‡.Polish. But the problem is that after I put it in, I drove around and everything is fine.Came home, went out in the morning, can’t get the car started. Disconnected the hose from the carb (I got two).I turn on the ignition, the pump works, but the gasoline does not come.Came under the car (the pump under the bottom) disconnected the line that goes to the pump. it is empty. Blowing into it, the tank is bubbling gasoline.but the pump doesn’t pull it for some reason. Is it possible that the system has no check valve and gasoline stacked back into the tank and the pump is stupid pulls air ?? In the last pump I had a check valve right in the pump. There is no check valve in this system

Fucking hell, it can’t be the four tens, the rod has nothing to do with the mechanical boost lever on the gas pump or the engine is fucked up

Why is the gas pump not pumping gasoline?

fuel, pump, tiller, pumping

One of the most important components of the power system of an injected gasoline engine is the electric gasoline pump, which is located in the vehicle’s fuel tank. The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from the gas tank, creating a certain pressure.

Automotive repair experts identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:

Given that the fuel pump is an electromechanical device, the most popular faults of the gasoline pump are related to both mechanical and electrical parts. Below we will consider what signs indicate a gasoline pump failure and why the gasoline pump stops pumping partially or completely.

Preparing your power block to start

Difficulties with starting the engine can appear not only at the motoblock and cultivator, used, but also at the new, just purchased in the trade center. For this reason, before starting the mini-tractor for the first time, you should read its manual, then carefully examine all connections and, of course, check the oil level in the engine.

Study the annotation, compiled by the manufacturer, should be in order to find out what the working revolution of the motor: four-stroke or two-stroke. It is not unimportant to understand, as for modifications with a two-stroke engine (like the Mole cultivator) requires a special combustible mixture, consisting of a mixture of fuel and oil in a special proportion.

Because of the mismatch of fuel special equipment will be noisy, and still can hurt the spark plugs and fuel line, which is fraught with failure of the gasoline pump, and it is already a direct way to an expensive repair in the HUNDRED. You can tell if the fuel is good for your bike by the smoke it produces. If the fuel is of poor quality, it will have a white tone, as it happens when the vehicle is heavily tilted.

Fuel quality is also important for your diesel engine. It won’t start in winter. or it will start, but soon freezes up. if it has summer fuel in its engine, because at low temperatures it starts to thicken and clog the fuel line.

Starting motorcycles, both in summer and winter, should be done in a prescribed sequence. For example, to start a Mole motocultivator, the following order of operations is carried out:

  • open petrol valve;
  • set the choke engine in the state “Choke” (Start);
  • Switch off ignition and cycle the engine several times with the recoil starter;
  • Start the engine again and move the engine to the “Run” state.

Often there are conditions when the power unit starts easily, but after a couple of seconds it freezes. Check if the sump is not blocked. If it is because the choke is dirty, you need to clean it with gasoline.

It may be a little more difficult to start a vehicle with a diesel engine. startup of the diesel engine begins with bleeding the fuel line, i.e. with ridding it of air accumulation. To do this:

  • open fuel tap;
  • untwist the outlet conduit connections until the fuel appears;
  • Twist the connections and blow out all the nozzles.

If, after the performed operations, the motor does not work properly, and the special equipment begins to smoke, then the cause is the old grease, and it must be completely changed. Does not start the unit and because of the lack of fluid in the oil, so do not forget to control this parameter.

Start your power tiller after a winter or extended idle time also has its own nuances. In order to get the machine in working position, the following manipulations should be performed:

  • Open the petrol valve;
  • check if the power is on;
  • check if there is some lubrication;
  • half throttle up.

Before activating the machine all connections are checked including the transmission, clutch and starting mechanisms and if necessary all adjustments are made.

Repair of fuel pump, pumping.

It often happens that I need to pump fuel from a heavy can, in the tank. Well there is no strength to lift it.For this purpose was bought a pump. pumping. Cheapest one, but it has to fit in the neck of the canister.And at one, far from a beautiful moment, it stopped pumping.I will show you what he has inside and what can try to repair, maybe someone will be helpful.

Donor was a motor from windshield washer, from Zhiguli.

Since the motor is not sharpened to work in a liquid medium, it is sealed on all sides.All this needs to be assembled on a sealant.

Shaft seals, this is exactly the reason why the motor stops working.The fuel goes inside the sealed housing.

Rear cover, put on sealant, it also centers the pump housing in a steel cylinder.

The pump housing itself, plastic, assembled on self-tapping screws. It’s got to be airtight

In terms of dimensions, the pumps are similar. The only difference is the shafts. One has a keyway, the other does not.If you have a dremel, it is quite realistic to file such a flats.

The pump covers, both top and bottom, are just tight in the steel cylinder, probably with some glue. I did not find any glue residue when I disassembled it. But to put it back together, it’s better to use glue. Took it out once and the covers started to fall out freely, especially the one with the hose on it.

After replacing the oil seal, the motor has been running for about a year. Then I fill up again with diesel.Then I repaired it again. while it works.

Didn’t take a picture of the donor. Wasn’t sure it would fit. I don’t think it’s critical, you’ll figure it out.))

How to use a power tiller and how it affects starting

Manufacturers don’t report the service life of their power tillers, reasonably stating that it depends on the conditions and intensity of use. This is true, but the way the engine starts is also affected by these conditions in some way.

Dirt can get into the carburetor in only two ways. with fuel and through the air filter.

That’s why the filter needs to be cleaned or replaced in a timely manner. Filters of different shapes and designs are used on different power tillers. As an example, replacement of the filter on a power tiller Scout:

There is always a fuel strainer in the tank or faucet, or in front of the carburettor (depending on model). Dirt, sand, etc.ะด. cannot get into the carburetor.

Low-quality fuel may have tar and oil inclusions, which form clots in carburetor cavities, soot on spark plugs, they pass through the screens and precipitate inside it. Do not burn out in the combustion chamber and form soot. So try to use quality fuel from a trusted gas station.

It is not advisable to use “old” gasoline that has been in the can for a long time.

Other violations of operating conditions: overheating, lack of or poor quality oil in the crankcase, work at the limit of power leads to rapid wear or breakdown of the entire unit. It has practically no effect on how the engine starts.