What can be made of the air conditioner compressor
How to turn the air conditioner into the refrigerating chamber
The importance of such an element as a split system for a fridge chamber cannot be underestimated. It is the core element, the core of the refrigerator that performs the role of maintaining a constant temperature.
Split systems are used in medium-sized insulated chambers, ideal for storing products in production.
Further we will tell about the features of the refrigerating split-systems, give tips on choosing the right equipment, and name the best manufacturers of such equipment.
Principle differences of split refrigeration systems
Such split systems consist of two blocks. The external unit is located outside the chamber. It can be up to 50 meters away from the indoor unit, usually fixed to the wall.
An internal block is placed inside the chamber. Blocks connection is made by means of copper pipes and their connection is provided with a power cable. Read more about split system installation in this material.
Also on the market you can find a number of cooling unit models that come with two or more compressors. These units are ideal for manufacturing facilities because of their reliability. After all, if one compressor fails, its functions can be taken over by others.
In contrast to air conditioners of other classes the refrigerating units are notable for high productivity and rather low power consumption.
For this, they are equipped with automatic reclosing switches as well as an elaborate capillary system for the refrigerant.
Another important advantage of the above mentioned air conditioners is their protection against environmental influences and sudden voltage fluctuations. Most models have a built-in system that protects them from high or low pressure.
Significantly prolongs service life of split-system the presence of function of automatic defrosting. As a result, the housing as well as all components of the external and internal unit are reliably protected against the negative effects of ice.
In addition to split systems, cooling monoblocks are also popular. It is a complete unit that is installed on the wall of the cold room.
It consists of two parts, identical to a split system, but both parts are joined together into one device in one housing.
This important distinction gives them a great advantage because it enables them to be placed in cold rooms where other units simply would not fit in terms of height or wall thickness. Other features of two variants are almost the same.
Operating principle of a home split-system
Conditioner is a complicated home appliance, which functions on the principle of heat transfer from one place to another: in summer. from the apartment to the street and in winter. from the environment to the house. To move the heat, an interesting substance is used. freon, which can boil and turn into gas at subzero temperatures.
For reference. The freon that circulates in the circuits of refrigeration machines is called the refrigerant or working fluid. The key point is its evaporation and condensation during which heat energy is absorbed and released in large quantities, respectively.
Traditional units consist of 2 blocks. outdoor and indoor
The home split system works according to a cyclic algorithm:
- First of all, the refrigerant enters the heat exchanger of the air conditioner internal module (evaporator) that is blown by a centrifugal fan. Here occurs evaporation of freon, due to which the stream of indoor air cools down.
- Then the gas flows through a copper pipe to the compressor, which raises its pressure to a certain value. The task is to force the working body to condense outside, where the air temperature is even higher than indoors.
- After the compressor, the gaseous freon passes through the radiator of the outdoor unit (condenser). A large axial fan drives airflow through its fins and the refrigerant changes back to the liquid phase, releasing the room heat to the outside.
- At the last stage, the pressure of the liquid working fluid is reduced by passing through the expansion (throttle) valve. The freon is now ready to absorb heat again and moves into the indoor unit, the cycle repeats anew.
Note. There is a lot of condensate on both heat exchangers during operation and it has to be drained to the street or sewer. For a split-system to switch to heating of the house, freon is reversed and radiators are functionally reversed.
The Electronic Control Unit (ECU) is responsible for maintaining the room temperature and refrigerant pressure in the system by receiving signals from various sensors. The car air conditioner works on the same principle, the evaporator is built into the salon ventilation system, and the condenser is installed near the regular radiator of the cooling system.
Now you understand that to make an air conditioner of evaporative type at home yourself is not so simple, as it may seem. And for an automobile it is realized even more difficult, here it is necessary to be a master. refrigerator maker. As an example, we propose to view a video, where such a specialist has installed in his car VAZ 2104 domestic split system:
Let’s further analyze the designs of air conditioners, invented by the craftsmen, and allocate the most efficient devices, which can be recommended for manufacturing.
Simple homemade air conditioner
The principle of action of such coolers consists in blowing the room air through the objects with a negative temperature. In this capacity is usually an ice or cold accumulators, designed for special bags used for the summer transportation of products.
- old automobile refrigerator with insulated walls;
- Capacious plastic bottles, designed for 5 liters of water and more;
- Boxes made of cardboard or plastic with lids;
- Plastic jerrycans.
Note. The air supply is provided by any small-sized fan, for example, a cooler from a computer.
This mini air conditioner is also suitable for cooling the interior of the car, you only need to properly connect the air blower to the onboard power supply and stock the right amount of ice in advance.
Advantages and disadvantages of design
It is noteworthy that such devices really drive a cold air stream into the room. In addition, simple air conditioners are really made of improvised materials, whose price tends to zero. The maximum that you will have to spend on is an axial fan, if it is not found in the household.
Installation and connection of the device in the car
Unfortunately the disadvantages cross out all advantages of the cooler:
- No matter how much ice you put in the chamber, it is not long enough in the heat, so you have to constantly freeze the new water.
- While you cool one room, the one next to it gets heated by the refrigerator, where the ice is made. Plus, there’s the added expense of electricity.
- How long the ice machine will run in the car depends on the ice reserve you have with you.
- The air which goes through the ice is partially humidified. After a while the room will be saturated with moisture, which will make you feel worse than the heat.
Advice. Over humidification can be avoided by using ice accumulators instead of ice, which do not melt and do not turn into water. And there are other home appliances to control and maintain optimal moisture levels.
Conclusion. The above described conditioners made by our hands may be recognized as efficient. They can get you out of a jam, but running a cooler is kind of tricky.
Varieties of cold accumulators
How much ice is in the ice box
To answer this question, let’s calculate how much cold 1 kg of ice will release when heated from a freezing temperature of.6 ° C to 20 ° C. For this purpose let’s use the formula of heat calculation depending on heat capacity.
- Calculate the cold release from melting ice: Q = 1 kg x 2.06 kJ/kg °C x (0 °C. 6 °C) =.12.36 kJ.
- Find the reference value of energy released during ice melting. 335 kJ.
- Let’s calculate how much cold water will transfer when heated: Q = 1 kg x 4.187 kJ/kg °C x (0 °C. 20 °C) =.83.74 kJ.
- Add up the results and obtain.431.1 kJ or 119.75 W.
Note. The results of calculations of cold in physics also turn out with a “minus” sign, it is logical.
Even if you freeze the ice to minus 15°C, you are unlikely to get more than 150 Watts of cold from 1 kg. This means that in order to intensively cool the room of 3 x 3 m with the heat exceeding 30 degrees we will have to add to the home-made air conditioner 1 kg of ice every 20-30 minutes and the same amount of ice should be frozen. In practice the consumption will be less if you are satisfied with a tolerable air temperature. 25-28 ° C.
How to assemble the air cooler
Mini air conditioner for home or car is made as follows:
- In the side wall of the container, cut a hole equal in size to the operating cross-section of the fan.
- Screw the cooler with self-tapping screws or put it on small bolts.
- For the exit of the cooled stream make a second hole. Another option. to put on the neck of a bottle or canister corrugated plastic tube. The apparatus is ready.
Tip. In terms of operation, it is better to use a box with a removable lid, as it is more convenient to load ice or cold storage.
It remains to put and connect the improvised autoconditioner. Wires from the cooler can be brought to the connector of the cigarette lighter, in which circuit is a powerful fuse. The manufacturing and connection process is shown in detail at
Let’s cool ourselves: an air conditioner with their own hands
Preamble: I was away for 5 weeks in the Capital of All Russia. On my return, the heat met me back in Pskov, and the smoke. in Tver. But another surprise was waiting for me. a rush for fans and air conditioners. Attention! There’s a bunch of pictures and traffic below.
Fans were nowhere to be found, air conditioners too. Even if I could find something, the markup would be x4 or more. And the queue to install air conditioning is over 3 weeks waiting.
Well, it is not an outrage, you will say? No, it’s not. On the day of my arrival I had a simple air conditioner in my apartment.
However, you will have to work not only with your brain, but you will also need money. So if you, the reader, are a glamorous blonde, urgently look for the nearest geek to implement the gadget, written in this article.
I have money, I have hands, I want to have a fan or an air conditioner, but I do not have a fan or an air conditioner. What to do??
If there is no fan then it must be made. So. Go where “ordinary” philistines wouldn’t guess to look for fans, and they are there. Right. to the nearest auto parts store. Better domestic 😎
We unscrew a caterpillar or a filter from a water tap, so that we can use it to pick up the pipes in the store.
And buy in an auto shop:
The radiator. Anything bigger than Oka (for Oka) will do. Ask for it without extra automatics, otherwise you will have to dig. I bought a radiator cooling 21082-1301012, the price of about 1290r. 2. Car fan on the radiator, running from 12 volts, for cars VAZ, GAZ, AZLK, IZH, ZAZ and ZIL, power of 110 watts. Price 1190r. 3. A frame for this fan (don’t forget about it)!), 250р. (fan cover) 4. A set of fan mounts, bolts for the radiator (penny price) 5. On the spot buy reinforced rubber tubes, which can be cut to any length. Probably need a big car parts store. Select the length based on the planned location of the air conditioner and the source of cold water. For my placement fit the following specifications: Pipe to the radiator inlet and radiator outlet (the thickest). a total of 1 m. length. Pipe from the tap to the radiator pipe and back. 3 m. length (thinner). 6. A set of clamps (4 pcs.) to match the diameter of the heat sink tube. You can take a couple of clamps for the small tube (which will be put on the faucet). 7. Regular blue duct tape (10p.?) 8. The cheapest sealant (~50r.) 9. Connector for power connection to the fan (15p).) 10. Any 12 volt power supply (DC). I took an old computer (AT form factor), 230 Watts. Convenient because it is turned on with a toggle switch, not through the motherboard. 11. Optionally. you can take the electric pump heating from the gazelle and a set of pipes to it with small clamps (800r. 300р.) if you want to save running water. 12. 6 hours of personal concentrated time.
A small sheet of thick plywood, wooden laths, a wood saw, bolts, nuts, self-tapping screws, a drill and wood drill bits. all this was already in the household, and was needed to make the radiator clamp. Here you can be creative. As a last resort, anything you have on hand will do, as well as rope and duct tape.
Duct tape is needed to fit the radii, since the tube from (and to) the radiator is larger in diameter than the tube from the water faucet.
Put it all together. We place the radiator horizontally, having previously plugged up a hole for the temperature sensor. I plugged it with a self-tapping screw coated with sealant. When you connect the fan to the power supply reversed polarity (minus connect to plus, and vice versa), so that the fan changed the direction of rotation.
This device takes the coolness from the tap water, the extra water can be discharged into the bathroom or washbasin. Gives you cool air. The power is not high, so it is desirable to close unnecessary rooms, especially the kitchen. Usually a fridge is a vicious heat generator in the apartment. This should also be taken into account.
Really allowed to reduce the humidity in the room and the temperature by 3 degrees. The radiator for some reason works on 50% of its surface due to air congestion, has not yet solved this problem.
If you also decided to use a computer power supply. know that all yellow wires are 12 volts, all black wires are (minus), or “mass”. The wires from the fan connection can simply be bare, plugged into the power connector for the hard drive, and wrapped with duct tape. Sometimes the wires fall out, I also secured them with a small nail. But I, for some reason, worked only from the red wires (5 volts), maybe the unit is not standard.
And here is the first satisfied user of this system:
The noise is not very much. Disadvantages of the system. the fan’s power dropped due to inverting, and it’s technically cumbersome to unfold the design. It also collects condensate, you can put a towel or a basin. What can be improved? Make a case, invert the fan back and turn the air flow from it to %uzerneyma%, get rid of air congestion in the radiator. And finally solder the wires properly.
I wish you, the reader, to meet this summer exclusively at the sea and on vacation Feedback on improving the design and funny unconstructive criticism is gladly accepted in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев to this post.
UPD: If you repeat my exploit, send photos to mail dog netAn.ru or here in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев.
UPD2: I pump water down into radiator and take it from above. There is also a tap for “draining” the air cushion. It works effectively only when water flow is maximal. it lowers temperature by 5 degrees! At the inlet 30.1, the output is 24.9 Celsius. I tried to connect a pump to save water, but not enough power supply. I’ll find a PSU more powerful and report. I taped up the side holes of the fan frame with rubber tape to keep the windows warm in winter, it blows much more efficiently.
How a car air conditioner works
The factory installed air conditioner in the car works on the same principle as the office units. That is he absorbs heat through the evaporator, cooling interior of the car. The “waste” air is vented into the environment (into the street).
The air conditioner itself is a hermetically sealed system filled with freon and compressor oil. Oil reduces friction, partially drains particles emitted during operation and circulates in the air conditioning system.
Proceeding from it, it becomes obvious that a car air-conditioner can be only the unit, which can utilize air outdoors. And of course, such appliance cannot cost 3,000. 5,000.
Chinese air conditioner from a cigarette lighter in a car externally and by its functions is more similar to a usual fan. Such device doesn’t cool air, but just flows it in circle and creates light breeze. Manufacturers are going on tricks and proudly call such products as 12 volt automobile conditioner, but in fact in nature such units are still produced only for trucks. These dimensional devices, operating on 24 V, are cut into the roof of the cabin and they cost about 85,000.
Nevertheless, as they say “pain is a sly trick” and if you really need an analogue of the air conditioner, you can make such a device by yourself.
Air conditioner from a plastic container
To make the third option, you will have to do a little bit of fiddling with its manufacture. To assemble you will need:
These usually go for plumbing or drainage.
The first thing you do is wrap foil around all the interior walls and the bottom of the box.
You put a fan and a neck from a plastic pipe on top of the lid. Use a marker to trace the contours and cut out the appropriate holes.
The principle is simple. The fan will draw the hot room air inside and the cold air must come out through the pipe.
For this purpose put ice bottles back inside. You can’t do without them.
To avoid air suction, it is desirable to cover the gaps from holes after the installation of a tube and a fan with scotch tape.
You plug the plug of the hood into the socket and enjoy the coolness. Such self-made conditioner can cool the premise for half an hour almost by 7-8 degrees.
Which is more than an acceptable result for such a cheap handmade model. Not all floor-mounted mobile conditioners are able to cope with such a task.
There will be no puddles, no basins, and no safety concerns. Ice in bottles, of course, will melt, so it is better to use plastic containers rather than cardboard boxes.
Someone on the internet advises replacing regular bottled ice with dry ice. It’s supposed to get rid of the moisture. Do not listen to such advisers.
Dry ice when evaporating in confined spaces releases dangerous concentration of carbon dioxide. That is why it is even recommended to transport it only in trunks.
DIY: Freon chiller from an air conditioner
The idea of redesigning the laser machine cooling system has been on my mind for a long time, but as usual, my hands could not keep up with my head. Originally, the cooling work on the “tube” (laser transmitter) was carried out by a simple Chinese chiller, exactly as on the picture.
It is banal and simple: liquid flows through the radiator made of aluminum tube which is blown by the fan. Of course, any kind of temperature stability or reserve capacity is out of the question. In summer a usual window air conditioner was bought, which just cooled the air supplied to the chiller. It was a temporary solution, but as you know, nothing is more permanent than something temporary.
The last straw was an upgrade of the machine to a more powerful “pipe”, which already needed more serious cooling. Initially the choice fell on the Chinese freon chiller, but the delivery time and cost were higher than expected, so it was decided to modify what we have. The requirements for the system were as follows:
Stable temperature maintenance in the range of 8 14 C Autonomy 24/7 operation possible Less power consumption compared to the current system
The simplest that could be thought up is to immerse the cold part of a conditioner in liquid, directly cooling “pipe”, what has been made in the end.
We disassembled both devices and took them apart so dashingly, that we forgot to take a picture. From the conditioner the external case, the impeller of the fan blowing the cold part, heat insulation and a couple of tin walls were removed. Got all the electrical and expansion tank out of the chiller.
The tank under the cold part was decided to make of PVC with thickness of 6 mm, as there was plenty of it and it can be cut both with the milling cutter and a simple knife. And it’s easy to glue. Besides, one didn’t want to take apart freon part of conditioner. one would have to press the tubes all over again, to charge it, etc.д. A tank is glued nearly by place, there is a rectangular box, 360x300x90mm which is connected with an expansion tank with two connectors, fixed on a sealant and a hose.
(I apologize for quality of photo. I only had an old iPhone)
We glued the upper cover of the tank with a bolt as a stopper of the gas hole (it is not shown on the photo)
We connected the pump, operation indicators and alarms from the old chiller, filled the system (using brine as the refrigerant), turned on the air conditioner in the mode “cool to victory. Pretty soon the thermometer showed 5 degrees.
After some more time the temperature dropped to.2 and kept dropping. At this point it was decided to stop the tests and to work on the visual part of the device. From a piece of thin plastic we made the front panel and top cover, covered the air inlet with a mesh and made thermal insulation for the tubes.
Then it was a turn of a front wall (with an air inlet closed by a grid and a window) and thermal insulation of both vessels.
The thermostat of the air conditioner was gracefully glued to one of the hoses with blue duct tape.
Pluses the temperature does not rise above 14 degrees, does not fall below the dew point the conditioner operates in the mode of autopreservation of temperature and cools about 5 minutes, the following switching on comes only after an hour and a half (the declared capacity of the conditioner 2500 W) is cheap (approx. below)
Cons. the general clumsiness of the decision. kolhozny appearance. the thermosensor from conditioner more correctly would be placed inside an expansion tank, to modify a little the circuit, having calibrated it, say, on 12 degrees. Unfortunately, I’m not very good at electronics and have no idea how to do it.
Chiller successfully works for the second month, does not leak, cools, keeps the temperature. In a word, does what it should do.
a window conditioner. we got it for about 2000 rubles the remote control for a universal air conditioner. about 300 rubles ash (30 litres). 1500 rubles the pump. 600r thermometer, wires, relay, sensors. 500 rubles plastic, glue, connectors, ties, blue tape. 1000 rubles
The total is about 6000r. Agreed, a nice amount, especially for a refrigerator of this capacity.
Each appliance draws about 10.5 amps, so it’s important to determine which circuit breakers are connected to which outlets so you don’t connect the appliance to a circuit with other high-current-consuming devices, such as a microwave or electric kettle. Ideally they should also be at opposite ends of the main circuit breaker. So far I haven’t had any problems connecting the appliance to a 15 amp circuit along with a refrigerator or computer.
On a day when the maximum temperature reaches 95° F (35° C), two permanently running air conditioners can keep an 850 sq. ft. feet (78 sq. ft. meters) at about 75°F (24°C). According to my infrared thermometer, the ceiling is much warmer than the walls, so it might be worth insulating the attic better.
I plan to turn them on in winter on the heating mode, and they will consume less energy than the resistive baseboard heaters, but time will tell how true this is.
The disadvantage of this arrangement is that my windows are blocked/taped, so I can’t open them in the evenings when the air outside is cooler. It would be nice to have an automatic ventilation mode for such an occasion. However, the cooler air conditioner blows even cooler air out, so it doesn’t need to run that way for long.
This unit blows indoor air mostly upward. I opened up the case and removed the built-in reflector, replacing it with a Frost King HD9. It creates a roughly horizontal airflow, and the unit seems a little quieter because of the absence of those extra plates.
These ducts can be insulated with a 6″ “cotton pipe sleeve”. After 5 minutes with two layers of cotton fabric I got 122°F (50°C) on the duct and 102°F (38°C) on the surface of the fabric. It’s not the best material for insulation, but it’s cheap, easy to use, and quite suitable.
You can open up a standard heater air filter and cut a zigzag part to fit the shape of the plastic inlet duct frame. It is worth noting that this will limit the airflow, so it is logical to increase the fan speed. After taking this photo, I increased the density a bit:
air conditioner compressor as air compressor. YouTube
air conditioner compressor as air compressor. rustic gilemanov. How to make a compressor from VAZ engine Duration: 14:08.
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Mini compressor from a fridge (practice) :: AutoMotoGarage
The previous article described the theory of making a compressor from a refrigeration compressor unit. And so came the need for a very quiet compressor for small jobs and an airbrush. It was decided to use the same cooling unit, and as the receiver used a used carbon dioxide fire extinguisher.
Work in between To build a compressor we used everything we had, nothing was bought except for gauges and bayonet and quick disconnect connector
List of factory parts (that was not made by hand):
- cooler compressor. 1 pc.
- carbon dioxide fire extinguisher. 1шт.
- oil-water separator. 1pc.
- pressure switch (from usual compressor). 1 pc.
- pressure gauge. 2pc. (both then the pump, one Russian-made, the second China)
- Bayonet connector (for vacuum). 1pc.
- connector “Bystrosem” (for compressed air). 1pc.
- emergency valve. 1pc.
- Corner 1/4 to 1/4. 1 pc.
- tee from automotive brake system. 1 unit.
- fuel filter (automobile). 2pc.
- cage. 1pc.
- 1/4 plug. 5 pcs.
- starting relay. 1pc.
- 220V circuit breaker. 1pc.
- 220V mains plug. 1pc.
The list of reworked and newly created parts:
- Pneumatic tubes. 5 pcs.
- Tape fixing receiver (fire extinguisher). 2 pcs.
- bottom platform. 1 pc.
- modified bracket from refrigerator compressor
- power cord. 1,5m
Controls and adjustments
- Power button,
- regulator of output pressure,
- Output pressure gauge, pressure gauge in the receiver,
- Bayonet fitting for vacuum, quick disconnect plug for output pressure.
rolls explaining the compressor operation
Data obtained as a result of compressor testing:
Air injection (tank volume 1.9 l.):
- 0 to 1,5 bar (1,5 bar average working pressure for airbrush). 20 sec.,
- 0 to 7,5 atm (pressure switch actuates, compressor switches off). 1 min. 50 sec.,
- 5,5 to 7,5 atm (5,5 atm triggers pressure switch, compressor switches on). 35 sec.
pavlo87, the additional valve is dismantled without problems, I do not even know what to write here (at least in my modification unscrewed a screw and all, the valve in the hand). Only the top pressure bar is adjustable (engine shutdown). The reclosing pressure is not adjustable.
Thank you for your prompt reply! I have an extra. The valve is secured with a locknut, I loosened it, and the valve is loose, but not removed.If it’s not plugged in, it’ll leak? What is the difference between on and off pressure (delta)?
Looks like there’s a lot of modifications to the cutoff relay. I must experiment and then see if it seeps or not. If it blows, the relay will have to be disassembled and shut off my relay’s delta is 2.5 atm (5.5 to 8).
#144 (843) Link to this post vinserg, Good afternoon! Very informative blogs, thank you for your inhuman work! I am considering to build a compressor on the basis of a refrigerator, exactly like yours. But here is the problem, dismantled, turned on, it worked for a sec.5-7 then cut off, then it repeats with intervals of every 5 min.The starter relay is Soviet, no external signs of trouble can be seen. Hence the question: What can be the cause of short-term compressor operation.
Is it possible to use this compressor for spray guns for auto paint, provided that the receiver has a larger volume.
#145 (848) Link to this post nabJIyxa, welcome! Sorry for such a long reply, not enough time for everything. Regarding the compressor shutdown, you could try replacing the relay with a similar. Generally strange behavior of the compressor, there is a start relay, not a time relay. The compressor itself is warm?
In the history of compressor-building of refrigerators I know two full-fledged working designs. The first: a metal barrel of 200 liters and two compressors from a refrigerator.
The second one: (not particularly different, only in quantity) two metal barrels of 200 liters and three compressors from a refrigerator. These designs have been used successfully for painting car parts.
Masters worked according to the following scheme: you switch on and you are preparing parts, while you are preparing the pressure rises to the right level.
#146 (854) Link to this post Good afternoon! Can you please tell me what parameters a similar design can produce when used in the opposite direction, t.е. as a vacuum pump. I’m interested in pumping speed and residual pressure.
Greetings! Have not tested in this mode, no instrumentation.
the white is an oil separator filter with “semiautomatic” oil drainage back to the engine
Hi! Yes, an interesting solution. I had similar thoughts when I was topping up the oil in the compressor. But discarded the idea. Compressor under construction? Or has there already been a test run?
Hi all!I built a compressor from a soviet frost compressor.The chambers are made in Bulgaria.Pumps to about 4atm.and loses revolutions and stops.The machine is 380v.P-400W.,I am running on220v.through a 30μf capacitor.Oil changed.Help me out, thanks in advance!
The problem is well known. It concerns the electric motors running from the network 380V, in terms of the transfer to the power supply from 220V. And so, the loss in power only from lowering the voltage will be almost 4 times. And minus 2 phases. So do the math. You can find formulas and calculate the losses more accurately, but I think this will not solve the problem. You can make a phase splitter. but would not it be easier to take a regular compressor from the refrigerator.
I remember one moment 10 years ago, a friend who gave me this unit, it was powered through a homemade autotransformer P-400W and a capacitor 30mcf-600V.Т.е. Power supply transs 220v, and removes from it 380v.The attached rubber hose couldn’t be plugged!The size turns out a bit bulky, but it is an option.In a pinch you can use a compressor up to 3.5atm.,For a garage is enough.
I had a test run with ease pumping up to 6 atm maybe up to 8 but I adjusted the top cutoff to 5.5. I started to think about oil drainage after the engine was on overnight and after 8 hours of continuous operation the output was 150-170 g of oil and I can drain the oil back into the engine without straining
Compressors with their own hands from the refrigerator. algorithm of actions and all about homemade compressors
With the help of improvised means and a standard set of household tools, any housewife can assemble a homemade air compressor from a refrigerator. The scope of application of such a device is wide enough and justifies the cost of effort and money for its manufacture:
- Air compressor for airbrushing and painting.
- Electric pump for inflating automobile tires.
- Power source for pneumatic tools.
- Air pump for blowing complex mechanisms during their repair.
Homemade air compressor from a refrigerator
The range of possibilities, power, durability and reliability of a homemade compressed air generation system assembled on the basis of a compressor from an old refrigerator depends on the proper design and installation of its elements.
The problem of choosing a compressor
Assembling a functional and reliable machine starts with choosing its main part. the compressor.
It can be found in any domestic refrigerator; it performs the function of pump for pumping the refrigerant and represents a single unit in a sealed metallic shell, outside of which there is a relay to start it.
For the decision of a problem any similar motor in serviceable condition will approach. Further choice and configuration of all the additional elements of the construction is determined by the form and the characteristics of the particular device.
If you don’t have an old and unwanted refrigerator on hand, you can always buy a dismantled unit at the used tools and parts market. There you can buy a workable version for 100-150.
Dismantling of the compressor with your own hands from the refrigerator
Dismantling of the compressor with your own hands from the refrigerator
Removing the device from the refrigerator can be made with ordinary wrenches and screwdrivers. Air inlet and outlet tubes should preferably be bitten off, not sawn off, so as not to clog the mechanics of the machine. Dismantle also the regular start relay.
Peculiarities of refrigerators and their compressors
Consider the capabilities and characteristics of the compressor selected as the basis for the future compressed air mechanism. There are the following options:
Both are suitable for operation, but their special features must be taken into account. Linear units are designed for constant speed operation. Therefore, they are better suited to create a compressor apparatus. The converter versions are designed for variable speed, which must decrease depending on the signal from the temperature sensor.
Checking the refrigerator compressor for proper operation
In order to check the performance of the unit, it should first be tested with an electronic resistance meter, and then connect to the network:
- Each input contact is checked. There are usually 3 pcs on the unit., configured to fit a standard relay connector.
- The contact with the maximum resistance refers to the starting mechanism of the electric motor (about 20-40 ohms)
- The contact with a resistance of 10-15 ohms refers to the winding, which provides the operating mode (the wire on its winding is thicker).
- The third contact is a phase contact.
For the test connection, voltage is applied to the operating and the phase contact and then the operating and the start contact are short-circuited. The apparatus should produce a stable sound timbre when turned on, and an air flow should come out of the output tube.
Development of a compressor station layout
Preparing the equipment for the homemade compressor station
In developing the diagram of a compressor station and drawing up a list of additional equipment for it, the intended area of application should be taken into account. The larger the receiver and the pressure in it, the wider will be the capabilities of the homemade. The standard scheme includes the following parts and mechanisms:
- Electronic pressure gauge. It switches off the engine when the pressure in the receiver reaches the set parameters.
- Pressure gauge for measuring air compression.
- Pressure relief valve.
- Air dryer at the outlet of the air receiver.
- Air filter for installation on the inlet tube of the compressor unit.
- Filter that cleans the pressurized air stream from oil.
- Button switch.
- Wires, high pressure hoses and fittings with the necessary configuration.
- High pressure cylinder for receiver.
- Ball valve shutting off the air supply to the consumer at the outlet of the system.
Ways to buy equipment
It is possible to buy an old compressor from a refrigerator inexpensively at the second-hand tool market
Most of the parts for the compressor station are easiest to buy at a plumbing supply store. There are specialized sites where all parts, without exception, can be ordered in a few clicks.
It is much cheaper to buy the necessary equipment on the used tools market.
The use of cheap fuel filters is acceptable, but with a simple fitting and a metal dishwashing sponge you can quickly make a more reliable filter for coarse air cleaning from oil, which is installed on the outlet tube of the engine block.
The problem with the receiver
Cylinders for homemade compressor equipment on sale can not find. For this purpose, cylinders of different purpose and capacity are remodeled under the receiver:
- Propane and methane cylinders.
- Fire extinguishers.
- Cylinders for storing compressed air, carbon dioxide, oxygen and other.
- Homemade welded structures.
Note: When using homemade housings under the receiver, you need to consider the degree of risk and explosion hazards of such a device.
The simplest option is a medium-diameter steel tube with sealed plugs. A minimum of 3 pass-through assemblies must be present in the receiver housing:
- Compressed air inlet from the compressor.
- Condensate drain from the cylinder, which should be positioned at a low point.
If steel cylinders are used, inlet and outlet tubes are welded. Casing must withstand more than 10 atmospheres.