What Kind Of Oil To Fill In A Pneumatic Wrench

Winter engine oil: which is better to fill in. Features of the selection of engine oil for the winter. What kind of oil among all-season ones is considered winter according to the marking, what should be taken into account when choosing.

Winter engine oil: which is better to fill

For many experienced motorists it is no secret that the stability and ease of starting the engine with the onset of cold weather will depend on the quality of the engine oil and a number of characteristics of the lubricant. If in the summer the material is mainly subject to the requirements for the protection of parts in conditions of high temperatures and loads, then in winter it is necessary to take into account other additional parameters. Immediately, we note that the division into winter engine oil or oil for summer has almost completely lost its relevance today. The modern fuel and lubricants market offers products of a universal type.

In other words, a multigrade engine oil for year round use is widely available on the market. Over, the line between products only for gasoline and diesel engines is gradually blurring, since more and more often an option is proposed that can be equally poured into both diesel and gasoline units. At the same time, it has not yet been possible to achieve an unambiguous and complete transition to a universal oil for gasoline and diesel internal combustion engines, taking into account the peculiarities of work, the types of fuel used and other differences between diesel and gasoline units. In this article, we intend to talk about which oil is better to fill in the engine in winter, what is the conditional marking of winter oil for the engine, how to monitor the level and correctly add lubricant to the engine during winter operation of the car.

What kind of oil to pour into the engine for the winter

As mentioned above, the overwhelming majority of products on the fuel and lubricants market are all-season. At the same time, many car owners are in a hurry to change the lubricant before the onset of cold weather. We note right away that such an oil change in the engine in winter is very much even recommended, especially in cases where the old grease has worked out half or two-thirds of its resource before a scheduled replacement.

Now let’s move on to how to choose an oil for the winter season, taking into account the viscosity and other parameters that are extremely important for the proper operation of the internal combustion engine and its correct operation. To begin with, you need to fill the engine with those products that are recommended by the car manufacturer. This information is contained in the instruction manual. Over, the list is not limited to only one or two items. Not only the motor resource will depend on the parameters and quality of the filled lubricant. Oil affects the elasticity and noise level during engine operation, fuel consumption, ease of starting at low temperatures, etc.

1. It is well known that a more viscous lubricant creates a thick oil film, which allows the motor to run quieter. Also, such material is consumed less on waste, the risk of leakage of oil seals, gaskets and other sealing elements is reduced. For this reason, in the summer, car owners, especially those with a mileage of more than 100 thousand km, prefer to pour grease with a higher viscosity into the engine, while remaining within the limits of the tolerances and recommendations of the ICE manufacturer. The argument is that the gaps in conjugate pairs increase slightly with mileage. In other words, if a lubricant with an index, for example, 5W30, was initially poured into the motor, then after a run of 100-150 thousand. Km. Transition to 5W40 or 10W40 is in progress. It should be borne in mind that more viscous technical fluids under negative temperatures thicker and worse pumped. As a result, an engine that would normally start with more viscous oil in summer may have difficulty starting in winter. In this case, the answer, whether it is possible to change the oil in the engine in winter, will be completely yes.
2. Also let’s see how to check engine oil in winter. To check, it will be enough to remove the oil dipstick before cold starting the engine and look at the state of the lubricant, at what speed the oil collects in a drop at the end of the dipstick, etc. If the grease is seen to be very thick, then the need for replacement is quite obvious. By the way, given that the lubricant in the engine thickens in the cold, it is useful to know how to properly add oil to the engine in winter. As you know, overflow and underfilling of oil is undesirable for the engine, that is, the lubricant is poured strictly according to the level. The oil level itself in the engine in winter is checked no more in the usual way (after parking), but after preheating the internal combustion engine to operating temperatures.

So, we decided on the oil check. It becomes clear that the less viscous it turns out to be, the easier it will be for the engine to start in cold weather. If you notice that the grease poured in for the winter is not suitable or you simply intend to find the most optimal solution, then we will return to the features and nuances when choosing. Next, we will try to answer common questions, which oil to pour for the winter, which is better, 5w30 or 5w40 in winter, etc.

Choosing a “winter” engine oil

The main parameters of the oil, which must be taken into account before purchasing, can be determined by a special marking. In the case of the selection of lubricants for winter, it is necessary to choose a product that will best suit the viscosity and temperature indicators. Conditionally “winter” oil in the list of common universal solutions can be considered oils from 0W30 to 10W40.

• Oil 0W30 will be the least viscous, that is, even in severe frosts (about 35 or 40) it remains fluid and is well pumped through the system.
• Products with the 5W30 index are also good for winter, where the temperature drops in the region are quite significant. 10w30 is recommended for use in areas where winters are milder.
• The 10W40 marking means that such an oil is universal, well suited for both winter with a slight drop in temperature (about 5), and for operation in summer.

It is important to know that the smaller the first digit is, the thinner the oil will be after the internal combustion engine warms up and the unit reaches operating temperatures. Too liquid oil will mean that the lubricating fluid in some cases will be inferior in the effectiveness of protecting the mating loaded engine parts compared to more viscous counterparts. In other words, the thinner the oil, the thinner the oil film and the more the engine wears out. It turns out that for a confident start and minimal wear during a cold start, it is better to use low-viscosity oils, while after warming up the engine, such oil may not provide the proper degree of protection. Taking these features into account, it is recommended to adhere to the instruction manual and the “golden mean” rule. For example, if the manufacturer indicated that for a particular engine it is possible to use oils with both 5W30 and 10W40 marks, then it is necessary to build on the degree of possible temperature drop in the region.

In other words, if the temperature usually does not drop below 5 or 7 in winter, then 10W40 may be a good option. If the temperature drop reaches 15 or 20 degrees, then it is wiser to stop at 5W30 or 5W40, etc. It is also necessary to take into account the fact that with the onset of heat, the oil may also need to be changed to a more viscous one for improved engine protection. It is for this reason that some experts recommend pouring less viscous lubricant into the engine in winter and more viscous oil in summer, that is, to replace it in season. We add that such a change is relevant only if the rise and fall of temperatures in the region greatly exceeds the calculated “universal” parameters of the oil. This means that if in the climatic zone in winter, on average, not lower than 20, and in summer not higher than 35, then oil marked 5W30 can be used all year round.

It turns out that it is not so important whether you pour Liqui Moly, Castrol, Mobil or Xado into the engine. The main thing is that the selected product is original, suitable for this type of engine, has the required viscosity, taking into account the seasonality and meets all the tolerances of the manufacturer of the power unit.

What kind of oil to pour into the tiller engine

In order not to be mistaken with what kind of oil needs to be poured into the engine, you need to adhere to the instructions for the unit, which was developed by the manufacturers of the tiller of a certain brand. The instructions indicate the type of oil and its exact amount to fill. For the engine, engine oil is used in all cases. Several manufacturers make branded oils.

There are two types of oils. For 2-stroke and 4-stroke engines. To determine the type of engine, you need to look at its marking. Also, these two types of oils are divided according to their composition: semi-synthetic and synthetic (mineral). In everyday life, it is believed that synthetic oils are universal and can be used wherever possible. But in reality this is not at all true!

Also, oils are divided according to the seasons of the year. For example, one type of oil (synthetic) can be used in winter, and another type (semi-synthetic) in summer.

What kind of oil to pour into the Lifan tiller

It is optimal to use SAE-30 in the summer, and 10W-30 multigrade oil in winter.

Sae oil classification

The SAE technical classification is developed by the American Association of Automotive Engineers. The engineers paid attention to a specific temperature range, while not forgetting to take into account the fluidity and viscosity of the substance. According to SAE J300 standards, the following types of oils are distinguished:

• Universal: 5W-30, 5W-50, 5W-50, 15W-30, 20W-30, 10W-50, 10W-30, 10W-40, 15W-50 15W-40, 20W-40;
• For cold climates: SAE 0W, 10W, 15W, 5W, 20W;
• For warm climates: 50, 40, 30, 20.

All-season brands are in the greatest demand. The high demand for products is easy to explain due to the ability to use these oils absolutely in any climate in different weather.

The question in the title can be classified as eternal, that is, those about which motorists will argue to the point of hoarseness as long as the power units that need this technical fluid are in use. Of course, it is impossible to say unequivocally that only mineral, semi-synthetic or synthetic oil should be poured into the car engine. There are too many factors to consider when choosing it. Today we will consider all the possible options that can affect the choice of lubricant for the “heart” of the machine.

First, let’s remember why, in fact, the engine needs oil. It performs several useful functions: it lubricates the rubbing surfaces of the engine parts, protects them from corrosion, removes heat in the places of friction of the parts of the power unit, reduces shock loads, and, finally, serves as a “detergent”, washing out all the debris accumulated in the engine casing during its operation. Now we will build on what types of oil have been invented by mankind to protect the power plant of the machine from all of the above troubles.

The first motor oil was produced naturally from petroleum feedstocks. It is the most “natural” lubricating fluid, the composition of which is rich in natural hydrocarbons. Unfortunately, these natural oil components are highly unstable, changing their properties under the influence of external factors, for example, ambient temperature. The first engines that used mineral oil, suffered greatly from the effects of temperatures, as a result of which the technical fluid could not perform its main functions for a long enough time, and needed frequent replacement, which in itself did not please car owners. With the development of chemistry, scientists have figured out that it is possible to stabilize the properties of mineral motor oil with the help of special substances. The so-called additives. They began to be actively added to the composition of the oil, but although the expected effect was, it also turned out to be short-lived. And all because the additives added to the lubricating fluid under the influence of all the same factors very quickly destroyed, extending the life of the “mineral water” for a short time.

The real breakthrough in the “oil” business was the invention synthetic technical fluids for engine lubrication. Obtained by the synthesis of hydrocarbons, these oils were distinguished by greater resistance to unfavorable factors, did not require, due to their stable composition, many additives inherent in “mineral water”, and, most importantly, significantly extended the life of the engine.

Then came the third type of motor oil. Semi-synthetic th. It was created by mixing bases of synthetic and mineral oils in a 30/70 ratio (some semi-synthetic oils are based equally on “synthetics” and “mineral water”). This oil is the “golden mean”, as it has absorbed the best properties of the other two lubricants.

Talking about which oil is better to fill in a car engine, you need to remember a few more of its parameters that must be taken into account when choosing this technical fluid. These include viscosity (the ability of an oil to become thinner or thicker under the influence of certain temperatures), the presence of additives, and the approval of an automobile manufacturer.

This is not to say that some oil is better, and some worse. For one type of engine, for example, “mineral water” is suitable, and the other will work like clockwork only on “synthetics”. As a rule, mineral motor oils are filled into older engines (carburetor). Modern injection engines (it doesn’t matter if a gasoline or a diesel engine in a car) of new cars is best tolerated by synthetic oil. It is this oil that is poured into the engines of cars on the conveyor belt. But in the same modern engines with an increase in mileage, such a property as increased waste (degree of combustion and oil consumption) appears. To reduce the degree of waste, semi-synthetic oil is used. Thus, we came to the conclusion: mineral water. For engines of old cars (they can work on synthetics and semi-synthetics, but what’s the point of paying more?) synthetics. For engines of completely new cars, semi-synthetics. For new units, but already passed a certain mileage (from 60 to 90 thousand km) cars.

But it was we who decided on what types of oils to choose in terms of chemical composition under ideal conditions. In fact, the process of choosing an oil for a particular engine is a little more complicated. First of all, you need to consider which oils the manufacturer recommends. Information about this can be found in the car manual, but if you bought a used car and there is no “manual” for it, then data on the types, brands and viscosity characteristics of engine oil can be found on the Internet, on the websites of the automaker.

As a last resort, you can call the dealership that sells cars of your brand and check all the parameters with a consultant. Then you need to determine which oil was filled from the factory (if the car is new) or the previous owner of the car. In modern cars, as mentioned above, synthetic oils are used, while used cars in the engine, most likely, are filled with “semi-synthetics” or, if the device is rare, “mineral water”. Having determined what composition and viscosity the oil has already been used in the unit of your car, you can select the brand.

Currently, the automaker does not name specific brands of oils that they pour into the engines of their cars, telling customers that there is branded oil (for example, “Mercedes” or “BMW”).

They do this because they want to keep the owner of the car on the service “needle” for as long as possible, selling him “branded” oil at a price much higher than it is sold by the spruce plant of technical fluid. Therefore, the task of the motorist is still to find out the specific brand of oil in order to save his money. In addition, it is not at all necessary to pour oil of a certain brand into the engine of your “iron horse”. For sure there are a lot of analogues on the market, which, perhaps, will suit you more on the “price. Quality” scale. Indeed, the main thing in oil is not the brand, but its chemical composition (mineral, synthetic or semi-synthetic) and the degree of viscosity.

Based on all of the above parameters, you can determine which type of oil is suitable for your particular engine.

Gear oil: service life

The life span of gearbox oil varies depending on the type.

The oil in a manual transmission has a longer resource (this is due to the simplicity of the transmission design compared to an automatic transmission): the manufacturer recommends changing it after long runs. From 80-100 to 150-200 thousand kilometers, depending on the conditions in which the car was operated. In some manuals for the operation of cars equipped with “mechanics” you can find a note. “transmission oil for the gearbox does not change throughout the entire period of operation.” If everything is clear with the first ones (as soon as the deadline comes up. We go to the service station and change our used transmission oil for a new one), then what to do with the second ones? Experts advise regularly checking the gearbox oil level and condition. If the transmission oil level has dropped, add it. With a complete oil change, the amount of transmission fluid to be added depends on the capacity of each individual gearbox, plus a certain amount of the same fluid to displace the old oil (typical for automatic transmissions).

Attention: add only the oil that was poured into the box at the factory (you can find out from the authorized dealers), mixing different types of oils can lead to precipitation of chemicals that can be deposited on the rubbing surfaces of the gearbox mechanism parts and lead to their breakdown.

We check the condition of the oil in the gearbox at a service station: if chips are found in the fluid, a significant sediment from the additives used in the transmission oil, then it is better to replace it completely.

The transmission fluid used in automatic transmissions and variators requires replacement at lower mileage than manual transmissions. On average, ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) is replaced at the second or third MOT. That is, with a mileage of 60 to 90 thousand kilometers. The reason for such an early replacement of the transmission fluid is that the automatic transmission, in contrast to the “mechanics”, is a more complex unit, with its own cooling system. The difficult operating conditions of the machine and, accordingly, the “automatic” gearbox, lead to the fact that the circulation of the transmission fluid is impeded, therefore, it less effectively lubricates the rubbing surfaces of mechanisms, cools them worse, gear changes occur more slowly. If you notice that the gearbox is “stupid”, then, most likely, it’s time to change the old ATF to a new one.

 

One of the most pressing questions for motorists is whether it is worth changing the transmission fluid in the gearbox of your “iron horse” and when it is better to do it, has become the cause of many disputes. Today we will answer this and related questions.

Gearbox and its “insides”: why do you need gear oil?

The gearbox is used to transfer torque from the engine to the wheel axles. Each such unit has several stages (in modern gearboxes, regardless of design, from five and higher), with which the driver can lower or increase gears, and, accordingly, reduce or increase the torque transmitted to the drive wheels, affecting the speed of movement car.

Gearboxes are divided into several types:

• Mechanical (when the driver himself switches gears using the selector knob and the gearbox clutch mechanism);
• Automatic (gears are switched by an automated system without the participation of the driver);
• Robotic (a type of mechanical transmission in which the functions of clutch and gear shifting are performed by an automated control system);
• Stepless variators (the transition from stage to stage is carried out smoothly by transferring torque from the engine to the drive wheels through the clutches).

Regardless of the type of gearbox, transmission oil is used for the well-coordinated operation of its mechanisms. Its function is to lubricate the rubbing surfaces of the gearbox mechanisms (gears, rollers, shafts, bearings), protecting the unit from overheating, corrosion of internal surfaces and, thereby, prolonging its service life. But there comes a time when the oil poured into the gearbox on the conveyor is aging and loses its main characteristics, among which its viscosity is the main one. If the oil in the gearbox is not changed in time, then its mechanisms may fail, which is fraught with serious and expensive repairs. Therefore, every motorist should monitor the condition of the transmission oil in the gearbox of his car and change it in accordance with the recommendations of the manufacturer or specialists of the service center where the car is serviced.