Which Side Of The Board Should You Cut
Do not put a wood disc on an angle grinder
If you do not have a jigsaw, circular saw or chain saw, but you need to work with wood, then you can completely do with an angle grinder, as many summer residents think. Cutting boards and stocking firewood with an angle grinder. very dangerous, especially with the protection removed.
And since there are lovers of such a thing, then I am writing a warning note. But words. this is one thing. other. So I wasted my time and sawed wood with the scariest config. angle grinder with increased speed for the disc and removed protection.
Angle Grinder. a rough and powerful tool, capable of sawing both a thick board and a log into a light one. Only the diameter of the disc matters. The larger it is, the thicker the workpiece can be cut.
Staged an experiment on the most common and most popular angle grinder with a 125th disc.
To begin with, I recommend running your eyes through this article to understand what risks you are taking. However, the case described there is not associated with sawing wood (a disc hits metal even more than wood), but with non-observance of safety precautions. However, nothing will save you from breaking the disc due to the overestimation of the load in relation to its ultimate strength.
Unfortunately, on the “interskolovskaya” angle grinder, the manufacturers have supplied unregulated protection with a minimum gap, so your hands itch to remove it.
If you are a risky person and you know what you are going for, then you need:
- set the disc in such a way that the direction of rotation of the spindle corresponds to the arrow drawn on the disc, the revolutions of the angle grinder must be significantly lower than those indicated on the disc
- hold the angle grinder by the handle and as far away from the blade as possible
- tighten the retaining disc nut on the spindle tighter
- put on overalls and a protective helmet (transparent with a visor, like a firefighter), since all the sawdust will fly strictly in the face and by the collar, the torso must be protected under the clothes with a sheet of metal (yes, a bulletproof vest)
- checking all wood pieces for metal objects like nails and staples
- watch your legs, arms and body so that you do not injure yourself with the tool in case of an unexpected jerk
- do not hold the angle grinder on or in front of you, your body must be away from the tool
- take constant breaks from work: sawed-off, sawed-off, so as not to let the disc warm up
You cannot take a large disc (like 150) on a small angle grinder with the protection removed. there is simply nothing to hold on to with the right hand.
And I will repeat myself. unless absolutely absolutely necessary, do not use saw blades on the angle grinder, only grinders for metal and stone. Money spent on a circular (circular) or chain saw is not comparable to the loss of your limbs.
And one more simple trick, spied on by the Moldovan brothers. tape the key from the nut to the power cord of the tool with electrical tape around the base, so you will not lose it anywhere and never forget at home.
How to choose meat
No one knows meat better than someone who deals with it every day. Kirill Martynenko, Chef and Managing Partner of the Torro Grill network, agreed to share his professional knowledge with us, he told us how to select, store and prepare meat for cooking
How to determine by eye that meat is fresh?
Good meat should be dry to the touch, without mucus, bright red in color, the meat should not have colored spots and traces of airing. over, keep in mind that completely fresh. steamed. meat cannot be fried right away. Good frying restaurants use only ripe meat. that which has been stored under special conditions: in vacuum bags at a temperature of about 0 ° C for at least 14 days.
And how to store fresh meat at home?
End Grain Cutting Board from Scrap Wood | Build It | Ask This Old House
It is necessary without cutting, keep whole piece in the refrigerator for at least 3-4 days. Wrapped in a waffle towel or non-woven cotton fabric. In no case should the meat be wrapped in film or put in a plastic bag, otherwise bacteria will quickly develop in it.
How to understand which parts of beef are best to fry, boil, stew?
When choosing meat, it is important to know that the softest meat. these are the muscles that are minimally used by the animal when moving, and the toughest are the muscles that are maximally involved in movement. Without examining in detail the anatomy, we can say that the upper part of the carcass, starting from the back, is great for frying, the middle part for stewing, the lower part for boiling.
Well, if, when buying beef, we did not ask the seller which part this piece was from, we forgot. How to tell if it will be soft when cooked?
There is a very simple way. We take a large two-pronged fork and try to pierce a piece of meat. If the fork fits easily into the piece, then the meat is suitable for frying. If it is impossible to pierce a piece or it is done with great effort, then such meat is suitable only for long-term cooking: stewing, boiling, baking.
Before cooking, the fat must be cut off from the meat.?
If you are grilling meat, then cut all the fat off the piecet. When frying, it is the fat that gives the meat its taste and aroma. If you cook dishes from raw meat, such as tartar or carpaccio, then, of course, you need to remove all the fat, since it can spoil the taste of the dish when cold.
What is the best board for cutting meat? And which knife to take for this?
How To Cut Laminate Benchtop. DIY At Bunnings
I prefer wooden planks. With proper care, this board is more hygienic than plastic. After use, the wooden board must be washed with a stiff brush and a little detergent and left to dry at room temperature.
If the board is large and thick, then sometimes the top layer should be removed from it with a plane. In no case should you leave the board in water for a long time and dry it after washing by the fire or in the oven. If you neglect these recommendations, the wooden board can be very deformed.
For slicing steaks, it is best to use long and wide blade. With such a knife, you can easily cut a piece of steak in two or three movements. This is necessary to avoid cuts on the steak, through which the meat can lose a lot of moisture when you start frying it, and, of course, it will become significantly drier and tougher.
We sort of figured out the preparation. And what can you quickly cook from meat?
In my opinion, this is a roast made from thinly sliced beef. It is better to choose the same meat for cooking as for steaks. It is best suited for quick frying. It is good to add fried onions to such meat, pepper, salt or season with spices to taste. If you add a little flour and cream to the frying, you get beef stroganoff.
We arm ourselves with an electric jigsaw
It’s good if you have a jigsaw at home equipped with a file for wooden surfaces.
Using this tool is the best option.
Before sawing, mark the cut line with a pencil, and then cut through the film of the laminated coating with a knife or an awl. Now clamp the board tightly (face down).
The rotational speed of the power tool must be high. You must try to cut smoothly enough, without jerking the jigsaw, so that no chips occur. Having got used to it, it is possible to quickly and accurately saw laminate boards. over, an excellent result is obtained when cutting both along and across the board. It seems that the answer to the question, the better to cut the laminate, is clear. of course a jigsaw.
Circular Saw. Requires Experience
You can also cut the laminate with a circular saw, equipping it with a disc for metal work. At the same time, we put the board prepared for cutting and marked out on some flat plane. The laminate should not be at the bottom, as with a jigsaw, but at the top. Slowly and smoothly moving the circular disc along the cut line of the mowing line, we obtain a smooth and high-quality cutting surface. The disc does not get stuck in the laminate during operation.
But for those who have never taken such an instrument in their hands, it will be difficult for habit. It takes a lot of effort and effort to achieve the desired result. Having acquired dexterity over time, it will be possible to saw the laminate very quickly and efficiently. But this process requires patience.
If you have not previously sawed other materials with this tool, then it is better to give preference in favor of a jigsaw.
How and with what to cut the laminate. choice of tools and nuances of sawing laminated coatings
Many people like laminate. this inexpensive floor material is very practical and beautiful. But not everyone succeeds in carefully sawing off even pieces from it. And you will have to cut it, and more than once. at the end of each row, at least. So how and how to cut the laminate so that the cut line is pleasing to the eye. consider the methods and tools that can be used to cut laminate.
To get a better result, arm yourself with a fine-toothed hacksaw. For example, a hacksaw designed for sawing metal may well work. Chips on the cut can be avoided, but cutting with a fine-toothed hacksaw will be more difficult than a tool for woodworking. However, if you do not intend to cut the laminate in large quantities, then this method is fine. The cut quality, of course, is not perfect, but quite tolerable.
And here are the promised little tricks: before you cut, stick a piece of masking tape on this place. If you do this, then chips will not form at the cut. over, the laminate board must be laid face up. And in order for the cut to be smooth and clean, the hacksaw must have fine, frequent teeth.
Since the laminate is pressed using special mechanisms, then, of course, it is better to saw it not by hand, but with an electric tool.
For example, an electric hoe is quite suitable for this, (a reciprocating saw), which is increasingly used by home craftsmen.
Cutter specially designed for cutting laminate flooring
This cutter is a bit like a guillotine. The sharpest knife falling from the top instantly cuts the laminate like butter. the cut line is perfect and as accurate as possible. But this tool can only cut across the boards. And if you need to saw the floorboard lengthwise, then again turn to one of the methods described above.
In addition, such a cutter is very expensive, so buying it can be beneficial only to professionals who are engaged in laying laminate flooring on an ongoing basis. If you just want to change the floor in a couple of rooms in your apartment, then you probably shouldn’t make such a purchase.
Important: with any method, it is better to measure several times, and only cut. then. As a rule, they buy a little more laminate than it was calculated. It is taken into account that you will have to cut some boards, and then dock them correctly.
How to start laying and how to pull the lamellas together
In general, laying a parquet board is very similar to laying a laminate. The locking system is almost identical. The difference is that the first row of parquet boards should be laid with a groove to the wall, and a spike in the middle of the room. Exactly. And it is necessary to knock on the lower part when rallying. On the third that is at the very bottom. Why is that? Because you definitely do not damage the decorative layer and do not remember the lock. If there are any traces on the bottom part, this is not a big deal, but the jags on the top layer will be visible. As you can imagine, a damaged groove will be a problem for normal joining.
When joining a parquet board, we apply force to the lowest layer
Locks can be of different shapes, but always try to hit the very bottom layer. For this, manufacturers offer installation kits. There is a block with the required parameters, but you can make one from a piece of a regular board. True, this piece will have to be finalized. Take a segment about 20 cm long and choose a quarter. A quarter is needed with special parameters.
- The recess must be longer than the lock.
- The thickness of the protrusion should go under the spike and abut against the bottom of the board.
A piece of parquet board is also suitable, but when working it will need to be turned on the other side. It will fit in thickness, and the upper third, if any, is best cut / broken off, leaving only the lower part. Comfortable enough, but not as durable.
So the laying of the parquet board has begun. The first step has been taken. What you need to remember are two rules:
- The first board is placed in the right corner, with the groove against the wall.
- The gap between the wall and the board is set with wedges.
We also knock on the end
Can we start from the other side? Can. But it is not so convenient and takes more time. They sometimes start laying parquet boards from the middle of the room. This is if you need to lay in two rooms without a joint. Then one part is put with a thorn, the other with a groove forward. It is more difficult and longer, but otherwise it can be ugly in the transition.
You can start from the middle
Laying the last row
The last row in the room requires cutting the piece to length. Since rooms rarely have perfect geometry, each board in a row must be trimmed separately. At the same time, remember about the technological gap.
Joining the extreme parquet board
Undercut, but how can the last row of boards fit tightly? There is a special plate in the shape of the letter Z. It is also called “finishing”. One edge clings to the edge of the board, the second is knocked with a hammer. The bar is pressed.
As you can see, floating flooring is not too difficult. If you had even a little experience with laminate, it will be easier. Not? And this is not a problem. It is quite possible to cope on your own and without experience.
How to cut a parquet board
Ideally, a miter saw is required to cut the parquet board. Then the cuts will be even, and the process will take very little time. If there is no such tool in the arsenal, anything that can cut wood will do:
- Hacksaw with blade for wood.
- Regular jigsaw.
You can cut with a jigsaw, angle grinder with a disc for wood
If you are a master of the angle grinder, you can use it too. But the cuts made by all of these tools will not be perfect. They are not suitable for docking. For trimming the last boards in a row only.
What is a parquet board, its types and methods of installation
Parquet board is a multi-layer material for finishing the floor. In appearance it is very similar to parquet, and made of expensive wood species. This is because the top layer is made of beautiful and even valuable wood species. At the same time, they choose beautiful cuts. True, there are different collections, and their “beauty” is different. The elite brand uses perfect wood without knots. For rustic brands, on the contrary, some of the boards are made with a “twist”. They are also emphasized by processing. brushed, using certain compositions for finishing. Not varnishes, but oils and wax. There are also intermediate options, so you can choose for any type of interior.
The methods of laying the parquet board depend on its appearance.
A parquet board is assembled from several types of wood, which are glued in a special way. Layering is necessary to ensure a stable size and impart high strength to the material. The bottom and middle layer is usually pine or other conifers. The castle is made of beech. it is relatively inexpensive and durable. A layer of wood with a beautiful texture is glued on top. This whole cake is covered with layers of impregnation, wax or varnish. Thus, a parquet board does not cost as much as block parquet, but it looks very similar.
Parquet board structure
There are two types of parquet boards:
- with locks. for laying without gluing (floating floor);
- if wound up at 45 °, it is not glued;
- if hammered locks, you can also glue.
Recently, there are fewer and fewer collections without locks. With locks, it is easier to get a monolithic coating without gaps.
In general, in order for the parquet flooring to be durable, the second row begins with a trimmed board. For each collection the pruning value is recommended by the manufacturer. As a general rule, it is better to space the joints at a distance of at least 30 cm.Some collections. with a wider board. should be at a distance of 50 cm.In general, we look at the recommendations of the manufacturers, but the second row should be started exactly from the trimmed element.
The locks of the parquet board from different manufacturers can be very different, therefore, installation instructions with pictures or photographs are usually put in each pack. But the general rules for laying parquet boards remain something like this:
The first row is laid along the right wall. Only the short sides are joined in it. It is not difficult. We bring the second board at an angle of about 45 degrees, combine the lock, lower the fragment to the floor. It snaps into place with a light click. In order for the fragments to connect as tightly as possible, you need to tap a little on the free end.
You can first assemble on the long side, then click the lock on the end
There are models of locks (Quick Step, for example), in which it is easier to first connect the long side, and then move the board and connect the end. Others, on the contrary, it is easier to assemble the lamella in full length by joining the ends, and then in one motion connect with the already laid row. So the technician is several.
So that the joints between the rows are as tight as possible, after laying each row, it is adjusted using a bar. They tap on each board, checking the connection not only visually, but also by touch. In some collections, due to the texture, the cracks are invisible during installation. But then, during operation, they appear. Please note that not all types of locks require knocking. If the connection goes like this “with a bang”, there are no gaps, you can do without a bar.
Step-by-step instructions for floating installation
As already mentioned, the main condition for high-quality laying of parquet boards is an even base. A vapor barrier (if necessary) is laid on it, and a substrate is placed on it. The underlay is not attached to the floor, but simply rolled from one wall to the next. It is not worth spreading the entire substrate right away: it is better not to walk on it. When laying the covering on the first strip, roll out the second, fasten them together and continue laying.
Do not forget that the flooring must not be in contact with the walls. A compensation gap of 1 cm is left between it and the wall. This gap is made around the perimeter of the room. In order to maintain this distance, wedges or just pieces of material 1 cm thick are used.After the installation of the coating is completed, the gaskets are removed, and the gap is closed with a plinth.
There are a few more rules to follow. First. Before starting installation, it is necessary that the material be kept indoors for several days (at least two). During this time, it will take “working” humidity and temperature. If the parquet board is laid immediately, gaps may then appear. Second. Laying a parquet board begins with cleaning the base. Remove debris, clean with a vacuum cleaner. If it is a screed, make sure it is not dusty. If dust rises, primer treatment is required. Better in two layers. After drying, you can start the actual work.
What is good about laying on glue
Gluing the parquet board to the base creates a monolithic coating. The joints of the fragments are filled with glue, that is, they do not allow water to pass through. Moisture is not terrible for such a floor (in small quantities and removed in time). Another point that can be attributed to the merits. the coating turns out to be “hard” and does not “play” underfoot. This is the feeling of a sagging floor that often occurs with floating flooring. And not everyone likes the feeling.
The main disadvantage of laying a parquet board on glue is the inability to replace the damaged fragment. No matter how hard you try, something falls on the floor, spills. After several such incidents, significant damage remains. As luck would have it, they are in the most conspicuous place, and the glued fragment is not so easy to replace.
Glue is applied to the base, and a parquet board is laid on it
The second disadvantage is the lack of a backing. For high-rise buildings, this can be a significant disadvantage. The substrate not only compensates for the microroughness of the base, it is also a sound-insulating material. The absence of a substrate means a higher noise level, which is unlikely to please the neighbors. The situation is better if you lay the parquet board on plywood rather than directly on the screed. Plywood can be placed underneath or any other soundproofing material.
On the screed
Floating parquet can be laid on the screed. That is, this is an option with locks. If the screed is poured evenly and sanded, after priming, you can put it on glue.
If the base is a concrete slab, it is usually leveled with leveling compounds. They are selected depending on the available deviations. Please note that the screed must stand at least 30 days before laying the parquet board. If leveling self-leveling compounds were used, they indicate when the topcoat can be laid. Be sure to meet deadlines. When laid on a damp substrate, the wood will swell and affect its appearance. And it’s not a fact that it will return after drying. And this is not a warranty case.
Diagonal laying of parquet boards requires a large supply of material
Further, in the technology of laying parquet boards on a screed, the need for laying a vapor barrier is prescribed. The cheapest material for this layer is polyethylene film with a density of 200 g / m2. It is laid on the base in two layers (as it is sold with a sleeve, it is put without cutting). If there are several panels, they are laid with 15-20 cm overlapping one another. The connection of panels is glued with double-sided tape. The edges of the film are brought onto the walls, where they are also glued to the walls with double-sided tape or special fixing tape. Everything should be glued securely. We must cut off the path of a couple, but for this we must try.
All this is true and correct, but vapor barrier is necessary only when the screed can have high humidity. If the laying of parquet boards is carried out on the second floor of a private house, in a high-rise apartment above the 1st floor, and there is a dry living room under you, vapor barrier is not needed. Is there a bathtub, bathroom, kitchen, basement under your room? Vapor barrier is required. If there are living rooms below, immediately lay a substrate on the base, and not a parquet board with it. In this case, the vapor barrier layer is simply superfluous.
The technology of laying a parquet board on a screed provides for the presence of a vapor barrier and a substrate
Floating laying of parquet boards provides for a substrate. It is a loose material that acts as a vapor barrier and increases sound absorption. Usually they try to take either a pressed technical cork or materials based on it. As an economy option, you can use a laminate underlay.
Glass-ceramic or glass boards are quite popular with our housewives. Are they really that good?
- richness of colors, patterns;
- resistance to moisture and high temperatures;
- rubber feet, thanks to which the board fits snugly on the table.
- high hardness of glass quickly blunts knives;
- on such a board you cannot cut with ceramic knives;
- usually small in size;
- drop. smash;
- specific squeak (not for the faint of heart) when cutting.
Summary: In our opinion, it is better to choose this cutting board for a beautiful presentation of cheese or fruit, and not for slicing and shredding products.
As in the case of wood, plastic is different from plastic, because there are cheap and very expensive models. Let’s start with the first, more accessible.
This is not a board in the conventional sense, and not a joint of horizontal layers of wood, but a monolith of small glued bars with vertical fibers.
Due to the manufacturing technology, end cutting boards are often referred to as professional cook equipment.
- does not blunt knives;
- almost eternal;
- environmentally friendly;
- suitable sizes.
- special care: the board must not be left in water for a long time, it must not be washed in the dishwasher, it must also be periodically lubricated with a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax.
On the other hand, it is not difficult to maintain an endboard. All that is needed is household attentiveness and a 5-minute wiping ritual every two months, which, by the way, creates an antibacterial coating.
Rather, the disadvantage of this board. massiveness, which, in combination with the dimensions of our kitchens, will make you wonder about its placement.
We want to warn you against the popular illusion. Have you not noticed how often people pay attention to the environmental friendliness of parts, but do not at all check the harmlessness of the glue with which they are connected? Be consistent, ask the manufacturer what they used as a binder.
Summary: We recommend buying imported hardwood boards. If you have a large and roomy kitchen and cook a lot and often. then be sure to buy also an end board.
Does size matter
Why is board size important? It affects the quality, convenience and cutting time. When something falls off a cutting board, you need to take the time to pick it up. Plus, it should completely fit the largest cut or cut object. for example, a turkey.
From this point of view, boards that can be decomposed into smaller elements are convenient.
Let’s look at what cutting boards are made of today.
Criterias of choice
Convenience, like beauty, is a relative concept and is very individual. So you don’t have to agree that a good chopping board is:
But some of these parameters, you see, are important to you and will help you decide on the choice of material and shape of the cutting board.
We did not specifically indicate such a factor as cost.
Best Chopping Board: Buyer’s Guide
There are items that you cannot do without in the house, and the cutting board is undoubtedly one of them. The question is which cutting board is best for your average kitchen. And how to choose an option that is completely satisfactory in all respects?
To make it easier for you to find the ideal, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the most popular types of cutting boards, the materials used, their pros and cons. Although, they say, nothing is perfect, it is quite possible to find the one that best suits your requirements, with which we will start.
- low price;
- does not blunt knives.
- the material is easily “chipped”;
- susceptibility to deformation. cracks and twisting from water;
- lack of protective treatment;
- instant absorption of colorants and odors.
It is better to use such a board for slicing a loaf. But for meat, it is definitely not suitable.
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Seeing my gestures and huge eyes, he generally said that he would not touch her far away from sin and that he would cut off the loaf on the fly.
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Chopping boards: which are better?
The history of cutting boards is rooted in ancient times.
Since then, this essential piece of kitchen utensils has practically not undergone any noticeable changes: wooden cutting boards are still the most popular, although the market is also saturated with products made of plastic, glass and even stone. Professional restaurateurs still cannot decide which cutting boards are the best in all respects. It is curious that professional cutting boards differ from household ones only in size.
They are preferred by professionals. Such boards are environmentally friendly, stable on the table surface, but the most important plus. the fact that when working on a wooden surface of the board, the knife blade remains sharp for a long time.
However, nowadays many housewives refuse them. What’s not to like? First, the high cost. Secondly, wood, as you know, is a vulnerable material; it is easily deformed under the influence of moisture. Thirdly, the question of hygiene remains in question due to the fact that cracks on the surface of the board cannot be avoided. Although if you follow the simple rules for using any cutting boards, viz. pour boiling water over them at least a couple of times a week and set aside a separate board for cutting raw meat and fish. then the hygiene problem will be solved.
The following types of wood are usually used for wooden planks:
The cheapest option is birch, but such boards do not last long. they have high humidity and low hardness. Pine also belongs to the low price category. Among inexpensive boards of good quality, beech can be noted; humidity. 40% and relative strength.
The most convenient and common among restaurant business professionals are bamboo and hevea boards.
Bamboo does not exfoliate, is not afraid of moisture, is resistant to mechanical stress and does not blunt the knife. Perhaps the only drawback of bamboo boards is the price. they cost half as much as beech boards, however, the quality justifies the price.
Hevea is an almost ideal material for wood cutting boards. was recently discredited in the market by numerous low quality counterfeits. The main producers of Hevea boards are two countries. Thailand and China. Hevea has a number of advantages over other types of wood: moisture content of 8-10%, the ability to survive in frost without cracking (hevea can be stored in unheated warehouses), high strength and a high level of grinding. In addition, Hevea does not deteriorate from hot water and does not absorb moisture and odors. Hevea boards are about 40% more expensive than beech boards. Acacia, which has properties similar to Hevea, is even more expensive.
The most durable, but also the most expensive, wooden cutting boards are made from oak.
How to choose a wooden board
The durability of wooden planks depends on the right choice. When buying a board, carefully inspect it from all sides, check it for cracks. Even the smallest crack, if it runs along the grain of the wood, will inevitably grow in the future and will ultimately lead to a split in the board. You cannot take deformed boards, because this is a sure sign that violations were made during the manufacture of the board.
Look at the cutting board from the side and determine if it is a solid piece of wood or a piece of plywood glued together. It’s easy to determine: a board made of a solid piece of wood has a characteristic wood pattern on the side, and if the board is glued from several layers of plywood, you will see longitudinal stripes parallel to each other. It is better to set up a board made of a single piece of wood, rather than hang it up, since it is heavy. It is better to buy it not one, but in a set and together with a stand. convenient, beautiful and practical.
Don’t choose a wide board. It may not withstand the test of water and drying and will be very warped. But a board made of several layers of plywood is not afraid of water or drying, but its top layer quickly deteriorates. But such a cutting board is light and thin, you can safely hang it on any carnation or hook.
Many experts consider it unhygienic to use wooden cutting boards. Wood is an excellent absorbent, and microbes accumulate in various cracks and damage on the surface of the board. To protect against germs, cutting boards must be thoroughly washed in hot water and then wiped thoroughly.
It is recommended to have at least six boards:
for cooked products
for vegetables and fruits
for a loaf
In the 40s of the XX century, scientists obtained silicone plastics that are highly heat-resistant and resistant to the action of water, acids and organic solvents. Now cutting boards are made from them.
Such boards are in great demand. Their characteristic features. durability, lightness, ease of care and low cost. The special surface, which the plastic boards are equipped with, prevents products from slipping on its surface and the formation of scratches. But such boards, unlike wooden ones, cannot be used as a hot stand. Previously, the main disadvantage of such boards was their instability on the table surface. Now, most of the boards are equipped with special “legs”.
Their main advantage is hygiene (although they must be replaced if scratches and cuts appear on the surface).
In addition, plastic boards offer new design and color possibilities, an unusual shape, as well as practicality and durability. The specially designed textured surface of the plastic boards prevents excessive slipping and scratching. Modern boards have metal handles and comfortable juice grooves. Polypropylene cutting boards are known for their high wear resistance and are used industrially in fish and meat processing plants. Polypropylene has high hygienic properties and high resistance to most chemicals.
The disadvantages of plastic boards are as follows: they absolutely cannot be used as a hot stand. They, as a rule, slide very strongly on the table (in industrial conditions they are fixed with rubber buttons).
You can buy only plastic boards made of certified material in order to have a guarantee of safety and to know for sure that the plastic from which your board is made does not contain harmful impurities.
When buying a plastic cutting board, choose one that has a grooved surface and grooves to drain liquid.
When buying, make sure that the plastic from which your chosen board is made is food grade. Information about this can be found on the packaging (if such information is not available, it is better to refrain from buying).
Glass boards (glass ceramics)
Shatter-resistant glass boards feel perfect. Their surface is not damaged during use, heat-resistant, such boards are easy to clean and do not absorb odors. Particularly attractive is the design that can be matched to any interior. Nevertheless, for the most part, they remain just an element of decor. The reasons are banal: knives quickly blunt on a glass surface, and the sound emitted during work is not pleasant to everyone. However, some operations, such as cutting fish, are very convenient to carry out on glass boards, since they do not absorb odors.
The main advantage of a glass cutting board is its design. On glass boards, the imagination of artists gives rise to whole masterpieces: here and reproductions from famous paintings, still lifes, landscapes, wildlife, animals and birds. The most fashionable today are still lifes, made taking into account the traditions of the national cuisine of different countries. This variety in design allows you to choose the right board for any interior. They can be used for table setting and this makes glass boards attractive for restaurateurs.
In addition, glass cutting boards also have functional amenities:
No scratches left when cutting
They do not absorb the smell of the food being cut
Their rubber feet do not slip on the table
They are distinguished by increased heat resistance on the glass side (up to 260 degrees) and can be used as hot coasters.
Glass boards are completely hygienic and easy to clean with common detergents.
The most modern glass boards are made of extra strong glass-ceramic material that is resistant to chipping and damage.
The disadvantages of glass boards include the fact that they are heavy compared to, say, plastic, not as strong as hardwood boards, they cannot be washed in the dishwasher and they can make unpleasant grinding sounds when cutting food.
There are cutting boards using seemingly incompatible materials. The inner base is soft wood, around the perimeter is hard wood. The working surface is made of polyethylene with a mesh structure. Such an unusual connection gives the effect of a trampoline, that is, when working on such a board, the knife is micro-expelled from the working surface, which allows you to keep the sharp sharpening of the knife for a long time.
The Japanese came up with cutting boards of various sizes (length up to 150 cm!), Layering (two and four layers) and color coding. Multilayer polyethylene has an elastic structure, due to which the surface of the cutting board in the active work zone remains smooth. no cuts or burrs, it excludes the ingress of board microparticles into food and food into the board. Different color coding allows you to distinguish boards for different products without marking.
A flexible cutting board-mat made of silicone or light, thin and durable plastic makes it possible to pour the products cut on it into any dish, simply bending the board with a funnel or scoop and without spilling anything. For storage, you can literally shove it into any slot. It is convenient as a cutlery holder on the dinner table, when traveling and at picnics. The material from which it is made does not dull the knife blade, but it also has no cuts or chips on the surface.
The surface of the sides of the board can be different, which makes it versatile. It is convenient to roll out the dough on the smooth side, and with good economy, and on the rough side, cut food. Marking on the cutting board makes it easier to cut the cake into equal segments or the dough into equal squares or triangles.
Some cutting board models have a permanent antibacterial effect. Silver nanoparticles embedded in the material destroy bacteria. Such a board neutralizes persistent food odors, for example, from fish, onions, garlic, which simplifies its care. there is no need to scrub it hard and use detergents. over, the manufacturer promises that if such a board is washed in a dishwasher, the bactericidal properties will also spread to the nearby dishes.
Which side of the board should you cut
Cutting board safety.
Wood is an extremely aggressive environment for food bacteria, unlike synthetic materials. Scientists have proven that wood. a good natural antiseptic capable of killing pathogenic bacteria.
For decades, chefs have been encouraged to use plastic rather than wood cutting boards for food safety. Experiments in the 90s showed that wooden planks (both old and new) kill bacteria, while plastic planks are hygienic as long as they are not scratched. Scratches appear. and they become a breeding ground for bacteria. As this research was scientifically based, the United States began to recommend wood planks over plastic ones. Russian regulations still require the use of plastic in public catering.
Board manufacturing technology.
All cutting boards are made from so-called plots. narrow strips that can be viewed from the end of the board. The narrower these plots are, the more resistant the board is to warping during operation. The permissible ratio of width to thickness is 3 to 2. over, these very plots should be located in a certain order. only in this case the cutting board will meet all the necessary requirements. For gluing the plots, a safe and very strong colorless glue is used that is approved for contact with food. If the technology is not violated, then the glued board turns out to be stronger than a solid one.
Impregnation of boards.
The tree is afraid of water and moisture. For this reason, cutting boards are treated at the manufacturing stage with hot vegetable oil until absorption stops. This increases the service life of the boards and reduces the hygroscopicity of the surface. However, firstly, not all boards undergo this treatment, and secondly, oil coating refers to unstable coatings, unlike varnishing or paint, therefore the processing procedure must be repeated over time. already independently, at home.
Any oil that meets two requirements is suitable for impregnating the board: safety for humans and resistance to deterioration at room temperature. Vegetable oils (in particular, sunflower and olive) do not meet the second requirement, since they deteriorate over time, regardless of the degree of their purification. A cutting board soaked in this oil takes on an unpleasant rancid odor after 1-2 years. It is impossible to get rid of this smell, and the board will have to be thrown away.
Coconut and flaxseed oils are high in saturated fat so they last for years. They do not need to be refrigerated, but direct sunlight should be avoided.
Mineral (vaseline) oil or ointment based on mineral oil and beeswax are rightfully considered one of the best products for processing cutting boards. Mineral oil is a colorless and odorless liquid. Oil treatment creates a natural protective coating on the wood. A few hours after coating, the oil will dry out, close the pores of the wood and prevent the board from absorbing water. This will prevent cracking and deformation of the board.
Beeswax improves moisture resistance and helps protect the cutting board from wear and water. The wax remains on the surface, filling the pores and crevices, while the oil is absorbed into the wood and cannot create such a protective film. The wax layer prevents moisture, bacteria and dirt particles from entering the wood surface. In addition, after waxing, the board becomes smooth and pleasant to the touch, acquires a delicate and pleasant aroma.
Oil the board regularly. at least once a month, and during the heating season in winter. even more often, and you need to lubricate all sides of the board! Lubricating only the front side will result in uneven moisture absorption and shrinkage, which will ultimately lead to bending of the board.
Number of boards in the kitchen.
In Soviet times, catering enterprises were ordered to have separate boards for baked goods, vegetables, raw meat, poultry and fish, and finished products. In Europe and the United States, restaurant requirements and recommendations for shoppers are different: one board for ready-to-eat foods (vegetables, fruits, loaf, cheese, herbs) and one. for raw (meat, fish, seafood).
Gutter / groove / gutter.
At first glance, the chute seems like an attractive idea: it retains juice from meat, fruits and vegetables and does not spread all over the table. But the gutter has plenty of drawbacks: firstly, it will interfere with the brushing off of chopped food and garbage; secondly, moisture will accumulate in it, which can create a favorable environment for the appearance of microbes. There is nothing wrong with having a separate board for grilling chicken or slicing pineapple. But the main board should still be without such a chute.
Sizes and purpose of the boards.
Depending on the purpose, it is necessary to use cutting boards of a certain size and thickness. The board for fish and meat should be 30×50 cm in size for other products. 20×30 cm. These sizes are the most convenient to use.
Thin cutting boards 5-10 mm thick are intended for cutting products that do not require much effort: loaf, sausage, cheese, vegetables, etc. For cutting meat and fish, you need to have a board with a thickness of 30-40 mm.
By the way, professional cutting boards differ from household ones only in size and thickness.
When using a wooden board, you need to remember about proper care for it: wood is a good absorbent, absorbing moisture and odors; microcracks and cavities of the board can develop microbes. Particles of meat, fish or vegetables always remain in the traces of a knife, and if you do not wash them thoroughly, the formation of various harmful bacteria is possible.
Before using the board for the first time, pour boiling water over it and wipe it with vinegar to kill any fungi and bacteria that may be present.
After working with the board, wash it thoroughly with hot water, if necessary with a sponge with standard detergents, then rinse with cold running water and wipe with a dry towel.
A good anti-microbial prophylaxis is to periodically wipe wood boards with clove infusion or vinegar (about 1/4 cup 25% vinegar in 3/4 cup water): vinegar creates an acidic environment that is harmful to microbes. After the vinegar treatment, the board should be left to dry. After cutting the poultry, this procedure must be done.!
There are three simple remedies for removing garlic, onion or fish odors: lemon, coarse salt, and baking soda. It is necessary to rub the surface of the board with one thing (a mushy mixture with water is made from soda or salt), wait at least a few minutes, brush off the remnants, rinse and dry the board.
Do not immerse a wooden chopping board in a sink with water and wash it in the dishwasher: the water will penetrate the pores of the wood, and after drying, the board will begin to crack.
Storage of boards.
The boards should be stored vertically “on the edge” or suspended. It is unacceptable to put boards in ovens and drying ovens, even for a short time.
Cutting boards for raw and prepared foods should be kept separate and not in bulk.
The place for storing cutting boards should be located away from heating appliances, in a room with normal humidity.
Boards from different types of wood: differences, advantages and disadvantages.
When choosing a wooden board, the type of wood is very important, as it determines its properties. density (hardness) and moisture. The best boards are made from dry hardwood. The surface of the wooden cutting board must be flat, smooth, without cracks or deformations, otherwise such a defect may worsen in the future, and the board will crack.
For the manufacture of cutting boards, the following types of wood are most often used: birch, pine, beech, hevea, acacia, bamboo, oak.
It so happened historically and geographically that in Russia boards made of pine, birch and beech are the most popular. This is primarily due to the widespread prevalence of these types of wood, as well as practical and economic considerations.
Against the background of other species of pine. fairly soft wood with a specific “coniferous” odor, well absorbing moisture and easily deformable.
Birch and beech are of medium hardness (like oak!), They are well processed, not very heavy, and look quite presentable. However, birch, if it is not treated with oil, quickly turns black, has a large number of knots and can warp from dampness. Beech, which has a remarkable texture and higher hardness, has only two drawbacks: it absorbs moisture well and can crack.
In fact, beech is very close to oak in its performance. Caucasian beech, along with oak and teak, belongs to the valuable hardwood species of the elite group of category A, luxury class. In terms of wood structure, beech is considered less loose than oak, and more flexible than teak, while it is not inferior in strength to these two magnificent species, and even surpasses them in beauty. Beech lends itself well to grinding and polishing.
Bottom Line: Untreated birch and beech boards are best used for slicing loaves and dry food, that is, if possible, avoid frequent contact with water. Birch and beech boards impregnated with protective oil, with proper care, will last a long time and retain their shape and appearance.
bamboo boards, the advantages of which include the fact that they do not exfoliate, are not afraid of moisture, do not absorb odors and are resistant to mechanical stress, still cannot be attributed to wood (!), because bamboo, in fact. grass;
hevea. very durable wood with low moisture content and low moisture absorption, able to survive in frost without cracking; one “but”: real boards from hevea cannot be cheap, and the pursuit of the cheapness of the final product turns into savings on raw materials and manufacturing technologies. As a result, we have a poorly glued board made of wood, presumably of Chinese origin. And, by the way, someone asked the question: how safe is the glue used by Chinese manufacturers if, according to Russian legislation, these products are not certified?
Conclusion: boards made of bamboo and hevea can be an excellent compromise of price and quality, if you are not embarrassed by the need to pay twice or even three times more than for a similar board made of birch or beech with the same approximately consumer characteristics.
Oak and acacia are undoubtedly premium woods with very high density and durability. Oak and acacia are not afraid of dampness and moisture, so cutting boards made from these types of wood are strong and durable.
However, hardness has a downside: oak boards are much heavier than other types of boards. And there is a real high-quality oak board five times, or even ten times more expensive than a board of the same dimensions made of beech. And if you are inclined to buy an oak cutting board, you should pay attention to the so-called end (with the direction of fibers perpendicular to the working surface) boards. heavy dimensional boards designed more for open-type restaurant kitchens than for standard kitchens of Russian high-rise buildings.
Service life of boards.
When we talk about choosing a wooden cutting board, we want the board to be strong, smooth, even, large in size and shape; so that it is convenient to cut on it; so that it does not slip, does not take up too much space, is easy to wash and does not require special storage conditions. The board should look good, last as long as possible, without warping, cracking, not becoming source of germs and mold.
With regard to the above, the following conclusion can be drawn: the correct choice of a wooden board is only the first step, the second is the correct daily care of it.
As for the question of the durability of cutting boards, manufacturers answer it in accordance with the current sanitary standards, namely: the cutting board (regardless of the material of manufacture. wood, glass or plastic) should be changed once a year!
In fact, any board is made of birch or oak. able to serve for several years. Another thing is the question of personal beliefs: for example, dentists have long decided that they need to change a toothbrush at least once every three months, but how many people follow this rule??!
On the sunny side of the street
Dina Rubina On the sunny side of the street
I don’t remember the names of the streets. However, they were renamed anyway. And I don’t like, I never liked these adobe fences, adobe alleys of the Old City, the khan’s splendor of new marble palaces, the imperial sweep of avenues. My youth got lost in these alleys, whistled through these avenues and. disappeared.
Sometimes in a dream, finding myself at a vaguely familiar crossroads and sadly guessing the whereabouts, I try in vain to remember the road to the market, where salvation awaits me from shame.
I do not remember the faces of fellow practitioners, and when, at my performance in San Francisco or Hanover, someone unfamiliar approaches me and, smiling too even, too white-toothed smile, says: “Remember Uspensky’s school,” I don’t remember, I don’t remember. I do not remember!
Then why more and more often, returning home from Haifa or Ashkelon, getting on my Jerusalem bus and absentmindedly handing the driver a crumpled twenty, I say dully:
From a long, with a breeze, tour, the mother came unexpectedly and, having learned from the neighbors about her stepfather’s betrayal, she went to cut him with a kitchen knife. Has inflicted three deep wounds. kill so kill! and went to prison for five years.
Vera was just reading Oedipus the King that day. The spread-out book remained lying on the kitchen table like a leatherette ridge up, as if trying to get up from the karachek. So everything turned out. Although the murder did not work out real. Uncle Misha, his stepfather, spent a long time in hospitals, but did not completely straighten himself. he dragged his leg, leaned to the left, propping himself up with a stick. I coughed into a fist.
“Dogniva-a-aet,” said the mother, the accursed murderer.
She herself counted out the entire period to a penny, and when she returned, Vera was already twenty.
Here’s a summary of events.
If you tell it sensibly and in detail. then this life must be dug from all sides: from the beginning, and from the end, and in the middle. And if you dig with diligence, you will dig such that you will not be happy. After all, any fate to strangers. how is it turned? Abstract. Table of contents. You will look into another and recoil in fear: who wants to climb with his bare hands into the electrical wiring of this high-voltage life.
She returned quietly: she rang the doorbell with two uncertain rings and when Vera opened it, she shed tears and brushed her daughter’s cheeks with the same uncertain kisses. Both were unusual for her.
“Has she calmed down, perhaps, on the official gruel?”. thought Vera.
For some reason the mother went not into the room, but into the kitchen; Socratus. a sleek gentleman, esthete, platinum sideburns. followed her anxiously jogging, wincing at the terrible smell of a prison vale.
Mother sank down on a stool, slowly pulled off the kerchief from her head (turned gray, fury. Vera noted) and softly, with a tear in her voice, sighed:
Leaning her sharp shoulder against the doorframe, Vera silently watched her. Only after her words, or rather after this beautiful exposure of the gray head, did she realize that the scene “Mommy’s Return” was being played, and mentally grinned.
Mother, meanwhile, looked around the kitchen with a different, grasping gaze, with the toe of a worn-out sandals a piece of charcoal pencil on the floor:
She raised her bright lynx eyes to her: have you seen the big guy? it is standing, the pole is thin, the old T-shirt is stained with paint, the look is sullen, mocking. Has grown. Self!
They looked at each other and realized that now they would live, both mad, in this apartment. Nose to nose…
I think I’ll stick here for a little while. I will not overshadow them, although I am the author, or rather, one of the secondary persons at the back of the crowd. I always sang in the choir in violas, in the second row. Do you remember, of course, these ceaseless choirs at regional competitions of school collectives? If not, I will remind you:
Lined up on stage in two long rows. Ceremonial clothes: white top. black bottom, chewed corners of red ties in the morning carefully steamed with a spitting iron.
The second row stands on long benches from the gym, not moving or breathing, because once, because of the broken leg of the bench, everyone fell together and sideways, like dominoes out of a box, on the wooden floor of the stage.
Match up. The toes of the shoes are slightly apart. Look at the wand. We got into the chest more sweaty stuffiness of the hall, and.
Here the little girl raises her hands, as if preparing to elbow someone invisible on both sides. The baton shakes and waits. At the piano, Klara Nukhimovna: a white frill of a starchy blouse, a watery nose, a fat hump on the neck. In the black mirror of the raised piano lid, a lined dove flutters the reflection of her crumpled lace scarf.
And now. the stormy April flood of the introduction!
Sweep from the beat: led slowly and thoughtfully.
the sound grows, the veins on the neck of the choir are stretched.
And went with the nuts:
It is us, altos and second sopranos, still hidden; and suddenly. the enthusiastic cry of the first sopranos:
The first sopranos, interrupting in frustration:
Friendly jubilation in the third:
Joint barge haulage pulling:
Second sopranos and altos, fighting for true zeal:
And go, go, guys, the finale is our great exodus, frenzy, redemption, ritual, voluptuousness of the total major of the mad Vestals:
and now. sneaking up with a pianissimo, spinning the bird-three to selfless delight, along the way, grabbing a powerful soprano of our choir, filled with beetroot juice, rapidly gushing onto her forehead, cheeks and monumental chest.
Breath collapse into unconsciousness of silence.
Furious thunderous applause under the direction of the jury.
It was quiet for a week. Mother did not touch Vera, she looked closely. True, on the very first evening, in the absence of her daughter, she raked up all the canvases, stretchers, brushes and boxes with sanguine and chalk and threw them on the floor in a small eight-meter room where Vera usually slept.
The big one, smelling of turpentine, varnish and paint. the daughter considered it a workshop and on this basis turned it into a pigsty, even planed boards for stretchers in it. the mother washed, ventilated, washed and hung old curtains on the windows, which had been lying in the corner for five years on a chair (you see, she didn’t have enough light, you see!), and for the sake of order she nailed a small latch on the door, not some kind of barn bolt. after all, to live with my daughter, not with a stranger.
Faith, seeing this, said nothing: in fact, the mother also needs to live somewhere. It was a pity only for the production for the still life, the mother took it apart. I threw away the grenades that were petrified from the old days, and wiped the copper, nobly dark kumgan from dust with a rag that served as a cherry background in the production, and put it on the windowsill.
“Oh, you, an old cow,” thought my daughter without malice, “I waited a week for it to be covered with dust, so that it doesn’t shine too much.”
In general, Vera was in a peaceful mood, gloomy and peaceful. In the evenings I would sit in my room and spend hours painting self-portraits, constantly raising my eyes at my reflection in the sharp shard of a once large and beautiful mirror. Sometimes she undressed to the waist (the models were not in her student’s ) and with the same concentrated, tenacious gaze, like someone else’s, measured herself in the mirror: straight shoulders, timid, like a teenager’s, chest, belly pulled in.
In the early days, the mother, still playing the role of “returning mommy,” tried to have a heart-to-heart conversation, that is, poking her nose into other matters, giving idiotic advice, or suddenly beginning to tell heart-warming prison stories. But she ran into her daughter’s caustic remarks several times and backed down.
Chopping board: secrets of choice
Whatever we intend to cut and chop, we cannot do without a knife and a board. After all, you can’t cut right on the table. scratches will ruin the surface. And the quality of the cutting board, by the way, also depends on how long the knife will serve you. Therefore, you need to approach the choice of a cutting board thoroughly.
Everyone has their own
It is better to have in the kitchen not one, but several boards: on one they cut meat and fish products, on the other. vegetables and fruits, on the third. a loaf, on the fourth. onions and garlic. The latter can also be used for cutting vegetables and herbs that have a strong smell. mint, basil and others. All this is necessary so that the products ultimately have exactly their own smell and color, and not what was cut before them. Different boards are also needed in order not to transfer germs and bacteria from one product to another. This is especially true of raw meat and fish, which can “reward” vegetables, fruits and much more with E. coli and parasites.
What, what, what, what are our boards made of?
Made of wood. Such boards are most familiar to us, but they are also different: from plywood, from chipboard, from bars or end boards and, in fact, from solid wood. The first and third options do not differ in strength, and those made from bars, together with chipboard, can also be hazardous to health, as they are made with glue. Solid wood is traditional and, perhaps, the best of the named options. Although there are drawbacks here: such a board swells from water, and over time it can split in half. Therefore, be sure to pay attention to the location of the fibers. they should go along, not across the board. The material is also important. They are made of birch and pine, they are light, and they protect the cutting edge of the “trench tool”. Here are just short-lived and quickly grind off under the influence of a knife. Boards made of hard wood (hevea, ash, oak) have exactly the opposite qualities: they are less afraid of moisture, they will last a long time, but they are heavy. But the knife is also not too blunt. Wooden boards are not recommended to be washed in a dishwasher: they swell upon prolonged contact with water.
Made of plastic. This one is less demanding to care for and much more hygienic. It can also become a bright accessory in the kitchen. the color palette is almost unlimited! Look for cutting boards with a textured surface to ensure that they do not slip (many cheap models do this). Inexpensive plastic boards are quickly scratched, impregnated with pigments (beet juice, carrot juice) and, as a result, do not look the best. If you are not embarrassed by the “combat” appearance, a plastic cutting board can serve for years: it is easy to wash it, but it is almost impossible to split it. Just do not put hot dishes on it. it is not designed to withstand high temperatures.
From glass. Tempered glass is a relatively new material for making boards. Boards made of this material are matte or with a print-picture. They are hygienic (hardly scratched, easy to clean), do not absorb odors and, due to rubber feet, do not slip on the table. Can be used as hot coasters. But, of course, such boards also have drawbacks: cutting food is accompanied by an unpleasant grinding sound, and over time, the glass board is still covered with scratches.
Stainless steel. A very unusual device with holes for juice or blood to drain. Such large cutting boards are placed on the bowl or sink depending on whether you need to “collect” the liquid.
Made of polypropylene. A flexible board made of this material is very comfortable. Its structure makes it possible to pour the cut food into any dish without spilling anything. It is convenient to roll out the dough on the smooth side of the board, and cut food on the rough side. It does not require special care and can be washed by hand or in the dishwasher.
They make the choice of cutting boards diverse not only materials, but also various devices, conveniently built into them. For example, there are models with built-in scales. for those who like to accurately follow the recipes of dishes or keep fit. Others have a “” on the side. the knife is removed there: the device is convenient if you are going to a barbecue or a picnic, where there is nowhere else to remove the knife. There are also boards with a groove for draining juice and a retractable tray for collecting crumbs. What will not be invented today for our convenience, hostesses! We only have to choose what to choose and cook our favorite dishes with pleasure.
So, the main reason why you need to use multiple boards is the risk of infection. But there are other. not so serious, but no less important reasons. As we know, many products have a strong and persistent odor. These include fish, onions, garlic, and some types of cheese. The smell of these products is literally absorbed into the cutting board (especially if it is made of wood) and does not “fade away” for a long time. As a result, whatever we cut later on this board, these products receive distinct notes of “foreign” smell. Onion-flavored apple slice. what could be more disgusting??
Professional chefs and people who are seriously interested in cooking strongly recommend setting aside a separate board for onions and garlic, as well as for fish. If there is extra space in the kitchen, this advice can be heeded, but there are simple methods of dealing with odor. Before chopping fish, onions or garlic on a wooden board, wipe it with a lemon wedge or 9% vinegar solution, and after use, rinse with hot salted water (4 tablespoons of salt per liter of water).
Why do you need multiple boards?
Cutting boards are made from different materials, but wood and plastic are considered the most acceptable. We will not go deep into listing the advantages and disadvantages of both types. this is a topic for a separate article. Over time, grooves and crevices begin to form on the surface of the cutting board, in which pathogenic bacteria multiply. Even the strongest detergents (including those used for washing in the dishwasher) are not able to completely destroy all microorganisms.
The largest numbers of dangerous bacteria are found in poultry, fish and raw meat. Of course, after passing through heat treatment, they are destroyed, and the finished dish, with rare exceptions, does not pose any threat to us. But, whatever one may say, before cooking meat, fish or poultry, they have to be cut. cut into steaks, cleaned, removed the insides, and in the process of contact of food with the surface of the cutting board, infection invariably occurs. Subsequently, all products that will be cut on this board will also be contaminated.
It is logical to assume that cutting meat, vegetables and a loaf on the same board (even after washing it beforehand) is not a good idea. To avoid constant contamination of each other’s products, it is worth using at least two boards. one for meat, fish and poultry, the other for all other products.
But what if we are talking about ready-to-eat raw meat and fish? Which board should be used to process food for cooking tartare, carpaccio, sashimi and sushi? On the one hand, if we are going to eat these foods raw, it would be logical to cut them up on the ready-to-eat board. But the problem is that these products still contain a certain amount of pathogenic bacteria, and they will accumulate and multiply in the grooves of the cutting board in the same way. It is worth doing as follows: meat and fish that will be eaten raw must be cut on the board where the finished products are processed. But immediately after the completion of cutting, the board must be very thoroughly washed with detergent and treated with a weak solution of vinegar.
By the way, if fish and beef can be eaten raw, then with pork and poultry things are quite different. These products are the most common sources of cross-contamination, as they contain very dangerous bacteria and viruses, including staphylococcus, listeria, salmonella and many others. By the way, not everyone knows that meat (and especially poultry!) Is categorically not recommended to be washed under running water before heat treatment. Yes, many will be surprised by this fact, but scientists have proven that when washing an ordinary chicken, along with the smallest splashes of water, bacteria scatter within a radius of up to a meter from the kitchen sink, settling on the work surface of the table, human clothes, kitchen utensils and, of course, other products. Thus, cross-contamination occurs even without the participation of a cutting board. Of course, it is difficult for us to get rid of the habit accumulated over the years, because even my mother taught that before cooking, all products. including meat. must be thoroughly washed. But the fact is that with sufficient heat treatment, all pathogens die, but a shower from spray infected with salmonella and other bacteria can backfire with very unpleasant consequences.
Does it make sense to wind up a lot of boards?
Currently in Russia there are sanitary and epidemiological requirements for public catering organizations, according to which the kitchen of cafes, restaurants and canteens should have as many as 12 boards with the appropriate markings: “SM”. raw meat, “SR”. raw fish, “SO”. raw vegetables, “VM”. boiled meat, “VR”. boiled fish, “VO”. boiled vegetables, “MG”. meat gastronomy, “G”. gastronomy, “Z”. greens, “KO”. pickled vegetables, “Herring”, “X”. a loaf, “RG”. fish gastronomy. However, these rules have not changed since Soviet times, when hygiene and sanitation were raised into a kind of cult. With modern detergents, such a harsh separation hardly makes much sense.
It should be noted that the US Food and Drug Administration (US FDA) officially recommends using only two boards in home kitchens. It is highly doubtful that such an influential organization is not serious enough about the issue of sanitation.
How many cutting boards do you need in the kitchen
When equipping our workplace in the kitchen, choosing dishes and other kitchen utensils, each of us probably thought about how many cutting boards should be in the kitchen. We know that a cutting board is not just a cooking tool, but its battery of dangerous bacteria. Without even delving into the study of the issue, we try not to cut ready-to-eat foods and raw meat on one surface. But how many cutting boards really should be in the kitchen. two, five, ten, or maybe you can still get by with one? Let’s figure it out.
What if the board is one?
It so happens that in the kitchen there is only room for one board. for example, if we decide to get a good, massive (and quite expensive) end board. For those who are not familiar with this type of product, you need to make a small digression. Wooden boards are divided into two types. side and end. On the side (these are familiar to us products that are sold even in the most ordinary supermarkets), the wood fibers are located across the movement of the knife, and on the end ones. towards. The latter are considered optimal for cutting products, since they are less conducive to dulling the cutting edge of the knife. But, as a rule, the end boards are massive, and not every kitchen has room for at least two.
If there is only one board, you need to follow a certain order of cutting the ingredients for the dish: first. vegetables, fruits, a loaf, then fish, meat, and last of all. chicken. If you have to cut foods with a strong smell, it is also recommended to put them off “for later”. And, of course, such a board must be very thoroughly cleaned, treated with a vinegar solution, dried and stored in such a way that moisture does not accumulate under the board.
So how many boards do you need in the end? From common sense, it is worth purchasing two boards of the largest possible size. Large boards are much more convenient than small boards if you need to prepare a large amount of food. On a large surface, you can cut, chop, chop several ingredients at the same time and move them to the edge of the board, making room for the next batch. But in pair with two large boards for meat / fish / poultry and ready-to-eat foods, you can buy 1-2 more boards of medium and small size. On a small board, it will be much more convenient to cut the sausage into a sandwich or a slice of lemon in tea. Optionally, one of these boards can be used to chop only onions, garlic and chili.
Thus, 2-4 cutting boards will be enough in the kitchen. over, it is more rational to give preference to a smaller number of higher quality products. Here, as nowhere else, the rule is relevant: less is better.