Why does the starter break on the trimmer
Reasons why the starter does not turn
Often the reason that the car does not start and the starter does not turn the flywheel is a discharged battery. This reason is not directly related to the breakdown of the starter, however, before diagnosing this unit, it is necessary to check the charge of the battery, and, if necessary, recharge it. Most modern car alarms will block the starter circuit provided the battery voltage is 10 V or less. Therefore, you will not be able to start the engine under this condition. To prevent this from happening, monitor the battery level and, if necessary, recharge it periodically. Also be aware of the density of the electrolyte. However, we will assume that everything is in order with the battery charge level.
Let’s consider one particular case. Owners of a 2007-2008 Ford Focus 2 car may face a problem when the starter does not turn due to an error in the original immobilizer. It is very simple to diagnose this breakdown. for this it is enough to start the battery power supply directly to the starter. However, it works without problems. As a rule, authorized dealers change the immobilizer under warranty.
The reasons for the fact that the starter does not turn and “does not show signs of life” may be the following situations:
Why does my pull start jerk back?
- Deterioration or disappearance of contact in the starter circuit. This can be due to corrosion or poor wire bolting. We are talking about the main contact “mass”, fixed on the body of the machine. It is also necessary to check the “ground” of the main and solenoid relays of the starter. According to statistics, in 80% of cases, problems with an inoperative starter are reduced to malfunctions in the car’s electrical circuit. Therefore, in order to fix the problem, it is necessary to revise the wiring, that is, inspect the starter power circuit, tighten the bolted connections on the blocks and terminals. Using a multimeter, check for voltage on the control wire going to the starter, it may be damaged. To check it, you can close the starter “directly”. How to do this is described below.
- Defective starter retractor relay. This can be a break in its windings, a short circuit in them, mechanical damage to internal components, and so on. It is necessary to diagnose the relay, find and eliminate the malfunction. You will find more information on how to do this in the corresponding material.
- Short circuit in the starter winding. This is a rare but critical issue. It occurs most often in starters that are used for a long time. Over time, the insulation on their windings collapses, as a result of which a turn-to-turn short circuit may occur. It can also happen due to mechanical damage to the starter or when exposed to aggressive chemicals. In any case, it is necessary to check the presence of a short circuit, and if it occurs, then the solution will not be repair, but a complete replacement of the starter.
Ignition contact group VAZ-2110
- Problems with the contact group of the ignition switch, which may be the reason why the starter does not turn. If the contacts in the ignition lock are damaged, then current does not pass through them to the electric motor, respectively, it will not spin. The check can be done with a multimeter. Check if voltage is supplied to the ignition switch and if it is released from it when turning the key. It is also necessary to check the fuses of the contact group (usually located in the passenger compartment, under the “torpedo” on the left or right side).
- Slipping of the starter drive freewheel clutch. In this case, repair is impossible, it is necessary to replace the mechanical starter drive.
- The drive runs tight on the shaft thread. To eliminate it, it is necessary to disassemble the starter, clean the thread from debris and lubricate it with machine oil.
Next, we will analyze the problems, the signs of which are the fact that the starter turns the crankshaft very slowly, which is why the engine does not start.
- Inconsistency of the viscosity of the engine oil with the temperature regime. Such a situation can arise when the oil in the engine in severe frost thickens strongly and does not allow the crankshaft to rotate normally. The solution to the problem is to replace the oil with an analogue with the appropriate viscosity.
- Battery discharge. If it is not sufficiently charged, then there is not enough energy to turn the crankshaft with the starter at normal speed. The way out is to charge the battery or replace it if it does not hold the charge volume poorly. This situation is especially relevant for winter.
- Loose contact of the brushes and / or poor tightening of the tips of the wires going to the starter. To eliminate this breakdown, it is necessary to revise the brush assembly, if necessary, change the brushes, clean the collector, adjust the spring tension in the brushes or change the springs.
Let’s list a few more atypical situations, due to which the starter does not turn on both cold and hot. So:
- There is a problem with the control wire that fits the starter. If its insulation or contact is damaged, it will be impossible to start the engine with a key. We recommend that you revise it. To do this, you will need the help of another person. One of you should try to start the engine with the help of the ignition key, while the other at this time tugs on the wire, trying to “catch” the position at which the necessary contact will arise. Another option is to apply a direct “” from the battery to the mentioned control wire. If the engine starts, it is necessary to look for the cause in the ignition lock, if not, in the insulation or the integrity of the wire. If the problem is a damaged wire, then the best option is to replace it.
- Sometimes permanent magnets in the starter stator are detached from the housing. To eliminate the breakdown, you need to disassemble the starter and re-glue them to the places assigned to them.
- Fuse failure. This is not a common, but likely reason for the starter motor not working and not turning the engine. First of all, we are talking about fuses for the contact group of the ignition system.
- The return spring on the starter retractor relay flies. To eliminate the malfunction, it is enough to remove the indicated relay and reinstall the spring.
Symptoms of a malfunctioning starter
There are actually many reasons why the car does not start. However, a malfunctioning starter motor can be identified by one or more of the following symptoms:
- the starter does not turn on;
- the starter clicks, but does not turn the engine crankshaft;
- when the starter is turned on, the crankshaft rotates very slowly, which is why the engine does not start;
- a metallic grinding of the bendix gear is heard, which does not mesh with the crankshaft.
Next, let’s move on to discussing the possible causes of a probable breakdown. In particular, we will analyze situations when the starter either does not turn at all, or does not turn the engine crankshaft.
Doesn’t turn the starter on hot
Starting the engine directly
Sometimes car owners have problems when the starter does not turn hot. That is, with a cold engine, after a long parking, the car starts up without problems, and with significant heating, problems arise. In this case, the most common problem is incorrectly selected starter bushings, that is, having a smaller diameter than necessary. When heated, there is a natural process of increasing the size of parts, which is why the starter shaft wedges and does not rotate. Therefore, choose bushings and bearings in accordance with the manual for your car.
Also, in extreme heat, the contacts in the car’s electrical system may deteriorate. over, this applies to all contacts. on the battery terminals, retractor and main starter relay, on “ground” and so on. Therefore, we recommend that you audit, clean and degrease them.
Closing the starter directly with a screwdriver
Emergency starting techniques
When the starter does not click and does not make any sounds at all, the engine can be started by closing it “directly”. This is not the best solution, but in cases where you need to go urgently and there is no other way out, you can use it.
Consider the situation of how to start the engine directly using the example of the VAZ-2110 car. So, the sequence of actions will be as follows:
- turn on neutral and put the car on the handbrake;
- turn on the ignition by turning the key in the lock and open the hood, since we will carry out further actions in the engine compartment;
- remove the air filter from its seat and take it to the side in order to get to the starter contacts;
- disconnect the chip going to the contact group;
- close the starter terminals with a metal object (for example, a screwdriver with a wide flat blade or a piece of wire);
- as a result of this, subject to the serviceability of the other nodes listed above and a charged battery, the car will start.
Then put back the chip and the air filter. An interesting fact is that in most cases the engine will subsequently be started using the ignition key. However, it should be remembered that the breakdown still remains, so you need to look for it yourself or go to a car service for help in order to fix it.
Emergency engine start
We offer you another method that will be useful to you in case of emergency starting the engine. It is only suitable for front wheel drive passenger cars with manual transmission! The algorithm of actions is as follows:
- it is necessary to jack up the car by hanging out any of the front wheels;
- turn out the suspended wheel all the way out (if the left wheel. then to the left, right. to the right);
- wind a towing rope or a strong rope 3-4 times on the surface of the tire, leaving 1-2 meters free;
- turn on the THIRD gear;
- turn the key in the ignition lock;
- pull strongly at the end of the cable, trying to spin the wheel (it is better to do this not in place, but with a slight take-off);
- when the car starts up, first of all set neutral gear (you can do this without pressing the clutch pedal) and wait until the wheel comes to a complete stop;
- lower the suspended wheel to the ground.
Troy-Bilt TB22EC trimmer won’t start. Electric Starter Cover O-Ring
The described method of spinning the wheel of front-wheel drive cars resembles the method of starting a crooked starter (using the crank) used in old rear-wheel drive cars (for example, VAZ “classic”). If in the latter case the starter is unwound with the help of the handle, then in front-wheel drive it unwinds from the semi-axle on which the raised wheel is located.
Starter clicks, but does not turn
Revision of starter brushes for VAZ-2110
Very often, when the starter malfunctions, it is not this mechanism itself that is to blame, but its retractor relay. It is important to understand that when the ignition is turned on, it is not the starter that clicks, but the mentioned relay. Malfunctions consist of one of the following reasons:
- Failure of the power wire that connects the starter windings and the traction relay. To solve the problem, you need to replace it.
- Significant wear on the starter bushings and / or brushes. In this case, you need to replace them.
- Short circuit on the armature winding. You can check this with a multimeter. As a rule, the winding is not repaired, but another starter is bought and installed.
- Short circuit or breakage of one of the starter windings. The situation is similar to the previous one. It is necessary to replace the device.
- The fork in the bendix is broken or deformed. This is a mechanical failure that is difficult to fix. The best solution in this situation would be to replace the bendix or a separate plug (if possible).
Does not turn the starter
The reasons that the starter does not turn may be a failure of the retractor relay, a weak battery charge, poor electrical contacts in the circuit, mechanical failure of the starter, and so on. It will be useful for every car owner to know what to do if the starter does not turn the engine. Indeed, in most cases, repairs can be done with your own hands. over, a breakdown usually occurs at the most unforeseen moment, when it is not possible to use the help of an auto repairman. Next, we will consider in detail the causes of the malfunction and methods for their elimination.
The starter is a simple but extremely important mechanism in a car. Therefore, its breakdown is critical, since it does not allow the engine to start. In most cases, problems are related to the car’s electrical wiring, poor connections, broken wires, and so on. Therefore, in the case when the starter does not turn and does not start the engine, first of all we recommend that you revise the contacts (main “mass”, relay contacts, ignition lock, etc.).
The magnets are loose
Starters are either with a separate electromagnetic excitation winding, or with four permanent magnets glued into the case, in the field of which the core rotates. They are usually glued in without pressure plates-retainers, but sometimes even spacers do not “save” the assembly. After severe overheating, or freezing in winter, the magnets peel off from the base and immediately jam the rotor. With this breakdown, the unit is definitely. for disassembly, or. for replacement.
What to check if the starter does not turn
The node has two electrical “circuits”: power and control. If the contact is missing in one of them, you still have a chance to start the engine without replacing the starter. If the problem is in the mechanical component. without removing the unit from the machine, it will not work.
Removing the starter
It is possible to check the unit for operability without removing it if the car is known to have a working, charged battery, and the plus from it just comes to the upper power bolt of the “traction”. Before making a check, make sure that the car is on the handbrake and the “box” is in neutral position. Switch on the ignition. Remove the single plastic connector from the traction relay housing (for a thin wire through which a pulse comes from the ignition switch). With any insulated metal object, close the power terminal of the traction relay (to which the “plus” comes from the battery) with the starting contact. If the starter is “alive”. the car will start.
If the car engine does not start when the key is turned, the first thing to check is the battery charge level. The electric starter requires a high current and can drain the battery after several failed starts. If the car battery is discharged below 10.8V, the power supplied to the brushes is not enough to turn a large flywheel with a small gear. Especially when cold starts.
Two more common problems associated with the battery: an error on the on-board system (if the brain does not have enough current, the BC will not allow the engine to start), as well as oxidized or loose terminals. Wipe the battery leads from oxide, reconnect the wires, checking the tightness.
Oxidized battery terminal
The solenoid relay does not turn on
After turning the key, the current flows to the retraction winding of the starter traction relay, which will “draw in” the core, emitting a familiar click. If it is heard, everything is in order with the device, the problem is the lack of contact on the plate, or the power supply at the “input” (previous case). When it stops working, the starter does not make any sounds, the bendix does not drive.
At high mileage, loss can occur due to the destruction of the contact plate. A separate type of breakdown. if the clicks occur in the “machine-gun” mode. the bendix “jumps out”, but does not engage the flywheel and “falls” back. the holding relay coil does not work. Only disassembly will help to identify the defect.
Solenoid relay circuit
The following checks can only be done with the device removed from the starter. First, in the “dialing” mode, check whether the retractor winding is intact: whether there is a signal if one probe is on the power terminal from the ignition key, and the second one is on the lower power contact (from which the wire goes to the electric motor). Further. in the same mode, evaluate the operation of the holding winding: one probe (from the ignition key) must be left in place, the second. to touch the device body. There is a signal. it means that the winding is intact.
Control circuit malfunctions
The starting pulse from the ignition key does not go directly to the starter, but through a fuse, several connectors, relays that determine whether the start is allowed. whether the state of the car corresponds to an acceptable one. On each of the components, including several meters of wires, the contact can be “lost” or worsen, and then the current will not come to the starting terminal of the retractor relay. The symptoms of malfunction will be according to the first option. To eliminate it, you will have to, armed with a manual, do a sequential revision.
Conventionally, the circuit that controls the start of the car engine consists of:
- The ignition switch, which supplies a starting pulse to the traction winding through the starter unloading relay (not available on all machines).
- Fuse, Wire Harness and Connectors. Connecting Major Instruments and Sensors.
- Selector lever position sensor (in P or N positions). for cars with automatic transmission.
- An interrupter sensor that registers the position of the clutch pedal (not on all cars).
Somewhere in the segment between the battery plus and the one that pulls into the power wire, the anti-theft system control is often introduced, which can also be considered a control element. One of the tasks of the immobilizer is to de-energize the starting device, because without receiving current, the starter does not turn the engine, which means it will not start. Anti-theft sometimes just “glitches” for no apparent reason. If the electric starter responds to direct power supply, check the immobilizer first.
Immobilizer connection diagram
Faulty brush assembly
The resource of the starter brushes is from 100 to 200 tons. Km of run. depending on the supplier of components of a particular brand, therefore, problems with their wear are more relevant for “older” cars. Brushes become clogged with graphite dust and wedge in the holder, the spring element breaks, the dust causes overheating.
If only a click is heard when the key is turned, but after a dozen attempts, the internal combustion engine still “grasps”, and before that periodically there were difficulties with starting. it’s time to revise the brushes.
Even one damaged or worn-out brush out of four. fatally affects the operation of the device.
In series: the battery, the power wire, the retractor contact disc and the brush assembly of the electric motor. form a high-load circuit that passes through a current of 150 to 300 A. During operation, the entire circuit heats up noticeably, and especially the contact disc. If the car began to start badly and you had to turn the starter for a long time. the terminals of the power bolts melt, their surface collapses, and ceases to conduct current.
Melted battery terminal
To check the conductivity, you need to remove the relay from the starter, take a multimeter, fix one of its probe to one power bolt, the second to the other. You need to measure the resistance by pressing your finger on the solenoid armature (by closing the contact). Tone signal. will mean that the “pyataks” conduct current normally, numbers. that carbon deposits, oxide or damage has formed on them, interfering with conductivity.
Overrunning clutch jammed
If the starter makes sounds, but does not turn the engine, for further diagnostics, you will need to remove it from the car.
Overrunning starter clutch
You can check the clutch by turning the gear manually. in one direction and in the other direction. If it turns freely in both directions, the clutch needs to be changed. The node is half-open and is located low enough, therefore, “collects” pollution. For prevention, you need to periodically clean it. Some car owners flush the clutch with a spray gun, but this cannot be done, as well as lubricated with greases. Otherwise, the part will jam from dirt adhering to the stem.
How to understand that the starter is to blame
There may be several sources of the problem: the battery has run out, the relay has failed, there is no normal contact, the windings are closed, or the starter mechanism itself is damaged. Plus a couple more “diseases” inherent in certain models.
Malfunctions of auto starting equipment are divided into two types: lack of contact (or short circuit), and mechanical failure (wear, or destruction).
You can distinguish them by the circumstances under which you could not start the car engine.
For example, you turn on the ignition, the “tidy” lights up, the fuel pump buzzes, push the key to the second position, and then, after turning the key, there are 5 options:
- Nothing happens. there is silence under the hood, the retractor does not click, the starter does not turn, the control lamps are briefly dimmed.
- Only clicks are heard, the starter also does not work, the dashboard reacts by changing the brightness.
- Lamps. dim, the retractor clicks, a strained “wok-wok” is heard from under the hood. the starter turns the flywheel, but slowly, with short “jerks” and the engine does not start.
- In addition to the click of the relay, there was a rattle (knock), there was a smell of burnt insulation, the engine flywheel did not turn enough and the engine did not start, then there was silence.
- The relay has clicked, the starter is spinning, but with a squeal (buzzing), or a crash, the flywheel does not scroll.
The first option. indicates a loss of current in the segment “battery. starter terminal” in the power circuit, no contact in the control circuit, wear of the brushes, or failure of the retractor relay.
The second option is for poor contact on the “dimes”, or somewhere in the control circuit, or for an inter-turn short circuit, possibly. wear and misalignment of the bushings, due to which the electric motor cannot turn the bendix.
The third. most likely “speaks” of a low battery charge, the absence of a reliable “mass”, or a malfunction on the part of the internal combustion engine (thick oil in the cold, a generator wedge, etc.).
The fourth one unambiguously indicates an internal breakdown: the magnets came off, the brushes crumbled, or the needle bearing collapsed.
Fifth. mainly speaks of mechanical failure of the bendix (teeth are licked off or crumbled, the clutch does not “come out”. it does not reach the flywheel), or the teeth of the planetary gear.
Symptoms of a malfunctioning starter
Both the generator and the starter are subjected to large mechanical loads associated with the specifics of these devices, and the slightest violation of the operating mode immediately makes its own adjustments to the quality of work.
The prerequisites for diagnosing or repairing the starter may be as follows:
- when turning the key in the ignition lock, the starter does not work;
- after starting the engine, the starter is not disconnected;
- the starter turns, but the car does not start (the crankshaft does not turn when the armature is rotating);
- strong grinding and noise during operation.
Symptoms of a malfunctioning starter and alternator
Starter and alternator malfunctions often cause a lot of trouble for motorists. Indeed, as often happens, during operation, we do not pay much attention to the loads that the car has to withstand. However, this continues only as long as our car suddenly stops starting and requires repair.
Below we will talk about the most common causes of malfunctioning starters and alternators, as well as how to fix them.
At the end of the article, see a detailed video instruction on finding the causes of a car starter malfunction.
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The understanding that any thing breaks down if left without proper care comes too late, and the only way out is often the urgent repair of the starter or generator. To avoid breakdowns, you need to know and be able to recognize the first signs of impending malfunctions, and carefully listening to your car.
Symptoms of a generator malfunction
Generator malfunctions are not always easy to identify. Some of them (the so-called “floating” faults) are determined only on a special stand.
But if you notice that the headlights, when the engine is running, have become dimmer, and extraneous noises interfere with the normal sound of a running engine or the battery is quickly discharged, then it’s time to contact the masters. Because it is better to prevent a malfunction by performing generator repairs on time than to ruin your day with an unexpected breakdown one day.
Recently, it has become very convenient to contact specialized firms, whose specialization is the repair, maintenance and sale of starters and generators. Modern equipment, combined with qualified personnel and a large selection of spare parts, will allow you to eliminate any malfunction in just a few hours. And diagnostics with disassembly and analysis of the degree of wear of parts will help to quickly establish the degree of operability and carry out restoration work.
However, you can try to diagnose yourself and eliminate some of the causes of generator malfunctions.
If the battery does not charge in the car, then first of all you need to check the tension of the alternator belt. the belt should be tensioned without sagging. Of course, this can be done by eye, but it is still better to use a dynamometer: if you pull on the longest branch of the generator belt with a force of 10 kgf, then it should bend by no more than 10-15 mm.
On most machines, the tension of the alternator belt can be adjusted by loosening the nut that secures the alternator housing to the adjusting bar and moving it with a pry bar away from the engine. After setting the required belt tension, tighten the alternator retaining nut back.
If the tension of the alternator belt is normal, then, most likely, the voltage regulator relay needs to be replaced. On older cars, it is a plastic box bolted to the front fender mudguard, and in modern cars, the regulator is built directly into the generator itself.
To replace the relay-regulator in the generator, you must first unscrew the two fastening screws, disconnect the contacts, and then remove the regulator together with the brush assembly from the generator body.
Check the slip rings: burned ones must be smoothed out with a fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a cloth soaked in solvent.
At the first time after installing a new regulator, it is possible that the voltage will slightly differ from the nominal one. When the new generator brushes are rubbed in, everything will return to normal.
What to do if the starter does not work?
Below are general guidelines for what to do if the starter does not work. And at the end of the article, see the video instruction.
- If the starter does not work, then first of all check the reliability of the connection of the battery and starter wires.
- After making sure that the connection is in order, turn on the horn and headlights. Dim headlights and a quiet signal indicate a flat battery. In this case, you need to charge the battery or ask to “light” from another car. the starter should work and start the car.
- If the signal and the headlights are working properly, then try to remove the wires from the ignition switch terminals, which are responsible for starting the starter (on VAZs, these are terminals “30” and “50”), and briefly connect them together. A tripped starter will indicate a faulty ignition switch. Start the engine, replace the removed wires and continue on your way.
- If the ignition switch is working properly and the starter still does not work, connect the additional wire to the terminal (plug) of the starter traction relay, and then touch the other end of this wire to the “positive” of the battery. If the starter works, eliminate the malfunction in the circuit from the battery to the starter traction relay.
If all of the above does not help, then start the engine from the tug and go to the auto electrician to repair the starter.
Coiling a spring is not an easy procedure. Not everyone succeeds in installing the part in place the first time, so you should not be upset if it fails. It is necessary to repeat attempts until the action is successful. If you wish, you can watch a video on the Internet, where craftsmen tell in detail and show how to easily and quickly perform this operation.
Important! When winding and installing the spring, you need to remember that it is hot, which means it can burst if you apply too much effort. A new part is inexpensive, but you will have to spend time searching for it, which means that the work on mowing the grass will be postponed indefinitely.
To wind the spring, you need to place the bend in the groove, and then, while turning the coil, carefully lay the part along the inner diameter of the bobbin. In this case, the spring must be constantly held with your hands. if you do not fix it, the part slips and jumps out, then the winding has to be done again. When done correctly, the spring is firmly seated in its seat.
The main malfunctions of the trimmer starter
It is not difficult to determine the cause of the breakdown of the triggering device. There are several main options:
- break of the cord (rope);
- when the spring breaks or disengages.
The above details are shown in the photo below.
It may happen that the starter mechanism is accidentally broken. The consequences will be disastrous if the broken rope is wound around the flywheel of a working internal combustion engine: then the spring will burst, the pulley will break. But such cases, when a complete replacement of the starter unit is required, are extremely rare. In most cases, to fix the mechanism, it is enough to install a new spring or replace the cord.
Replacing the trimmer starter rope
Installing the starter rope in the trimmer
At the very beginning, you need to remove the broken cord, choose the appropriate length depending on the trimmer model. We pass it through a special hole in the pulley and tie a knot at the other end in order to prevent the rope from jumping out of the trimmer start mechanism. Next, we erect the ribbon spring to the required number of revolutions and mount the handle.
One of the key components of the lawn mower is the starter, which is designed to make it easier to start the engine of the device. Like other parts, it breaks down periodically. In this case, there are two solutions to the problem: repair the trimmer starter or replace it completely. The second option is simpler but more expensive. In addition, the required part must first be found on the market, since different types of lawn mowers are used with different starters. If you have free time and a screwdriver with a suitable tip, you can restore the operation of this unit yourself if you know how it works, what malfunctions are typical for it, and how to fix them correctly. All this is in this material.
After installing the spring, tighten it. To do this, perform the following actions:
- remove the handle from the starter cord;
- then the rope is inserted into the reel groove;
- tension the spring by rotating the coil in the opposite direction to the clockwise direction (winding);
- make the required number of revolutions specified in the operating instructions for the used trimmer model and corresponding to the length of the cord used;
- at the very end, the rope is threaded into the hole intended for this, located in the starter cover;
- put the handle in place, fixing it with a knot.
If, after repair, the spring continues to fly off, then you can get rid of it in the following ways:
- squeeze a piece of the plate suitable in size into the groove at the location of the spring hook;
- drill holes on both sides of the groove in the spool, into which to insert the spring hook and fix it with a wire.
Dismantling, disassembly of the trimmer starter, replacement of parts
First of all, the repair process begins with removing the entire starter from the trimmer. This process is inherently straightforward and requires only the removal of a few screws with a suitable locksmith tool. It should be noted that safety precautions must be observed when dismantling the lawn mowers starting mechanism, since the ribbon spring in the compressed state has enough energy to injure a person.
Diagnostics and elimination of breakdowns
To diagnose the starter mechanism for the purpose of its subsequent repair, the unit must be disassembled. This is not difficult to do; you only need a screwdriver. But during this operation, you need to be careful. with careless movements, the spring can fly out and cause injury to the user.
The main breakdowns of the starter lawn mowers
Currently, there are two main faults in the petrol trimmer starter:
- Breakage of the drive cord (shmorgalki);
- Breakage of the tape spring or its disengagement with the pulley.
Trimmer band spring
In practice, there are cases when, for some reason, damage to the starter housing occurs and the torn cord is wound on the engine shaft, which will certainly lead to spring breakage and cracks on the housing. In this situation, local repair of the lawn mower starter will be impossible and a complete replacement of the engine starting unit will be required. In other cases, troubleshooting will be limited to replacing the spring or cord.
Removal and disassembly of the starter, replacement of broken parts
To repair the trimmer starter, you will first need to disassemble it, and then assemble it. This process is not particularly difficult. For work, you need a screwdriver with a tip of the desired shape.
Everything should be done carefully, observing safety precautions, mainly so that the spring does not injure the master in case of an accidental departure.
Car starter: how to prevent breakage
One of the most common causes of vehicle breakdown is starter failure. As a rule, it is very difficult to determine its cause, but providing the starter with a long and uninterrupted service is within the power of every driver. First of all, it is necessary to regularly carry out technical inspection and repair of the car. Data about the nearest service stations, as a rule, allows you to receive various advertisements, for example, SMS (sms) mailings.
Why does the starter break down
Most often, the starter breaks down in impatient drivers who show excessive persistence when starting the engine. If the car does not start, there can be many reasons for this, but the overwhelming majority of drivers are simply sure that the starter is to blame for everything and continue to try to start the car. Car repair specialists point out that if the car cannot be started within four to five seconds, the cause of the breakdown does not lie in the starter. This can be, for example, a weak battery charge, problems with the injection system and much more.
Paradoxically, if a person needs special services, for example, sending SMS from a computer, he will not try to do everything on his own, at the same time, motorists are very often like the patient who diagnoses himself and prescribes treatment for himself. It is clear that such an approach to business will bring harm rather than benefit. That is why you do not need to torment the ignition lock if the car does not start. it is better to immediately contact a specialist so that he can identify the reason for this. Unnecessary efforts will not only fail to start the car, but will also disable the starter.
Another major problem is insufficient battery power. In the absence of sufficient energy capacity of the battery, the starter simply cannot start the car, as a result of which it starts to work unevenly, jerks appear. Naturally, such a starter’s life, by definition, cannot be long.
Autostart, at first glance, is a completely harmless and useful function. In fact, it can cause considerable damage to the car’s starter. Of course, heating the car, especially in the cold season, is simply necessary, but it is very difficult to guarantee effective warming up of the car using autostart, but autostart can have an impact (not the best) on the life and performance of the starter.
It should be borne in mind that autostart cannot always ensure that the car starts up the first time, even though the reverse information is displayed on the alarm key fob. If the alarm does not understand that the engine has not started, the autostart continues to drive the starter, but it will not work to start the engine. In this case, it is imperative to contact the service center, otherwise the autostart will simply burn the starter or, at least, drain the battery.
Real life examples
There are many examples of starter failure due to improper vehicle operation. Most often this is due to the fact that the engine starts, but the starter continues to turn it for a few more seconds. Such failures, occurring regularly, lead to starter failure.
You cannot turn the ignition key even with the gear engaged. the most striking example is the need to drive a few meters to the nearest gas station if the gas tank is unexpectedly empty. Such a trip on the starter may well be the last in his life.
Useful information for car enthusiasts