Hyundai lawnmower engine oil. Hyundai 17 /43cm 139cc Self-Propelled Petrol Lawnmower

Hyundai 17/43cm 139cc Self-Propelled Petrol Lawnmower

The Hyundai HYM430SP is a budget-friendly, low-maintenance petrol lawn mower that offers easy and efficient cutting. Its self-propelled system allows for effortless mowing, and with a cutting width of 430mm, it’s perfect for small to medium lawns and gardens. You’ll love the rear wheel drive and 5 different cutting heights that give you a tailored cut every time. Say goodbye to pushing and hello to stress-free mowing with the Hyundai HYM430SP self-propelled petrol lawn mower.

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Budget-Friendly Petrol Lawn Mower

The HYM430SP is a low-maintenance, self-propelled petrol lawn mower from Hyundai. Fitted with a hard-wearing powder-coated steel deck for long life, it is the most budget-friendly option of all of our self-propelled petrol lawn mowers.

The Hyundai HYM430SP lawn mower is powered by an impressive Hyundai 139cc / 3.7hp OHV economical petrol 4-stroke engine for quick and efficient cutting. It also features a soft-pull recoil start for easy starting each time.

Self-Propelled Lawn Mower

With rear wheel drive, which is especially good for handling uneven terrain, this mower also features a self-propelled system where all you have to do is hold on and steer. no pushing required! Mowing has never been easier. The drive to the rear wheels is controlled from the rear-mounted handle control.

430mm Cutting Width

With a cutting width of 430mm / 17, this mower is ideal for small to medium lawns and gardens.

For the perfect, tailored cut on your lawn, the HYM430SP can be easily adjusted between its 5 different cutting heights. from 25mm for super smooth to a 75mm option if you’re trimming rougher ground or doing a first cut. by using a single height adjusting lever, giving you complete control over your lawn care needs.

The HYM430SP’s spacious 45L grass collector bag, featuring a high airflow plastic top with a level indicator to ensure maximum grass pickup, ensures that you’ll spend less time having to empty the cuttings, reducing your overall mowing time.

Safe and Easy To Use

Designed with your safety in mind, the HYM430SP includes OPC (Operator Presence Control) technology that ensures the engine will not run if you let go of the handle.

With minimal assembly required and 600ml engine oil included, you can be up and running in minutes to get that first cut on your lawn done as quickly as possible!

The soft grip handles can be folded forwards oven the main body for extra-compact storage to save space in your garden shed or garage.

Hyundai lawnmower engine oil

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The HYM530SP is a petrol self-propelled lawn mower from Hyundai.

With a powerful Hyundai IC196VE 196cc engine with low fuel consumption, it is ideal for medium to large-sized lawns.

For the perfect, tailored cut on your lawn, the HYM530SP can be easily adjusted between its six different cutting heights. from 25mm to 75mm. by using a single height adjusting lever, giving you complete control over your lawn care needs.

530mm/21 Cutting Width: Ideal for medium to large lawns

196cc Hyundai 4-stroke petrol engine: Provides easy starting and low fuel consumption

8 Adjustable cutting heights: Get the perfect finish on your lawn

70Ltr Grass catcher: Minimise the time spent emptying cuttings

Foldable handles: Compact for transport and storage

Peace of mind: 2 year Hyundai home use warranty / 1 year commercial warranty

Cutting Height: Min 25mm / Max 75mm

Cut Options: Rear and side discharge, mulching

Safety Features: Operator presence control lever

Catcher: 70Ltr Half plastic with polyester bag

In The Box: Lawn mower, catcher, tool kit, engine oil user manual

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Is Car Oil The Same As Lawn Mower Oil?

Cars and lawnmowers run on engines, so it’s common to wonder if the oils are interchangeable.

Though they are, you have to consider specific factors.

Car oil is similar to lawn mower oil, and you can use it in lawn mowers with four-stroke engines. However, car oil has a high concentration of additives and can damage smaller engines. It’s also important to match base oils; otherwise, you risk damaging your lawn mower’s motor.

Using the correct conventional motor oil in your lawn mower will get the job done, but you must check your engine specifications to confirm its compatibility.

Always confirm the information in your owner’s manual before proceeding with an oil change. You can double-check the manufacturer’s website if you don’t have your manual.

Lawn Mower Engine Types

The engines in lawnmowers are either two-stroke or four-stroke engines, and each requires a different type of oil for proper functioning.

Two-Stroke Engines

Smaller lawnmowers typically run on two-stroke engines. These lawn tools are less expensive than four-stroke mowers but have specific drawbacks and limitations.

Two-stroke engines are not as popular because they produce more harmful emissions and are more costly to maintain.

Firstly, two-stroke lawnmowers are not fuel-efficient, burning more oil over the same distance as a four-stroke engine.

Secondly, these mowers require expensive, high-quality oil to operate efficiently, and using the wrong oil can cause poor lubrication and reduce performance.

You can purchase the recommended two-cycle oil from the manufacturer. If you can’t find it, refer to your owner’s manual for a list of other lightweight oils appropriate for your lawn mower.

Four-Stroke Engines

Lawnmowers with four-stroke engines are more expensive and complex than those with two-stroke motors; however, they’re more fuel efficient, durable, and flexible with oil type, making them cheaper to maintain.

Though simpler, a four-stroke engine in a lawn mower is similar to that of a regular car engine, so it’s no surprise that motor oil is an acceptable lubricant.

Both machines use two types of oils: conventional oils (containing petroleum) and synthetic oils (without petroleum).

When using motor oil in your lawn mower, use SAE 30 or 10W-30 oil. If using synthetic oil, make sure that it aligns with SAE standards.

Just bear in mind that a mower engine is smaller than a car motor so before using motor oil in your lawn mower, confirm it can handle the additives.

Check your owner’s manual if you’re not sure about oil compatibility.

Can You Use Car Oil in a Lawn Mower?

You can use car oil in a four-stroke lawn mower but not in a two-stroke engine. Any lubricant must meet engine specifications, or you risk damaging the motor.

Car oil doesn’t increase your mower’s performance, but it’s a reasonable alternative if you run out of your manufacturer’s specified lubricant.

The opposite is true of two-stroke lawnmowers, which require lighter (thinner) engine oils.

The thickness of car oil can clog two-stroke engines, impacting the power supply. The effects may not be noticeable at first, but you will eventually see a decline in performance.

Over time, using the incorrect oil in your lawn mower may damage it beyond repair.

Four-stroke mowers will function using car oil, but choosing motor oil with incompatible base oils or high additive concentrations can also damage your four-stroke engine.

The deterioration is slow, however, so you can mitigate any damage.

How Different Is Synthetic Oil From Conventional Oil?

Synthetic oil is more refined than conventional oil and is usually the best oil for any engine (not just lawnmowers).

Synthetic oils have significant effects on performance. The higher quality base oils make them more chemically stable and more difficult to lose their protective qualities.

The difference between synthetic oil and conventional oil occurs during refining.

Synthetic lubricants go through a comprehensive process that removes as many impurities as possible. The final product is stronger, providing improved flow and better protection against wear.

When using synthetic oil in your lawn mower, confirm it meets engine specifications.

What is the Best Lawn Mower Oil?

Two-stroke engines require “small engine oils,” as specified by manufacturers. They can also use lubricants geared toward air-cooled engines, like those in chainsaws and weed eaters.

Four-stroke engines can use automobile oils, and the standard SAE 30 is one of the best. It’s also the most ideal for higher temperatures.

Other acceptable oils include:

  • SAE 10W-30 – better for colder temperatures, but expect higher oil consumption.
  • SAE 5W-30 – better for very cold or extreme weather conditions.
  • Synthetic SAE 5W-30 – works in all weather conditions and provides better protection against wear.

Avoid using additives in your oil – they can damage your engine.

If the manufacturer recommends them, follow their instructions. For example, if your manufacturer recommends detergent oils, you shouldn’t get a lubricant with friction modifiers.

When Should You Change Lawn Mower Oil?

Only four-stroke lawnmowers allow you to change the oil. When purchasing a new one, you’ll want to change the oil after the first three to five hours of use.

Initially, as the motor runs, internal components release shavings into the lubricant. Accumulating these fillings might raise the wear rate, so you’ll need to replace the oil sooner.

After you’ve had your mower for a while, the oil change intervals will depend on the type of lawn mower:

You can also change the oil every season. The process is simple, but it’s always recommended to refer to your owner’s manual for guidance.

Key Pointers For Changing Lawn Mower Oil

Check the Dipstick

A dipstick is a long tube with markings that inform you of the oil level.

The oil level should be between the “add” and “full” pointers. When it’s below the “add” mark, it’s time to add oil.

Use a funnel to avoid spilling, and do not go above the “full” mark to prevent overheating.

Run the Engine Before Adding New Oil

Before removing the old oil, you can run the engine for three to five minutes to reduce the lubricant thickness.

Going over five minutes may make the oil hotter, so keep an eye on your motor.

Once the oil is out, remove the spark plug and spark plug lead so the engine doesn’t accidentally run while adding the new lubricant.

Drain the Oil

You can empty the oil in your lawn mower through the drain plug, dipstick plug, or using an oil extractor kit.

Most manufacturers require you to tilt the mower to its side when using the drain plug. If so, do it with the fuel tap turned off to reduce the chance of a fire.

For a more efficient method, use an oil extractor kit. All you need to do is put the tube inside the tank and siphon out the lubricant.

Conclusion

Car oil and lawn mower oil are not that different but using them interchangeably is not straightforward.

You can only use automotive oil in a lawn mower with a four-stroke engine. Additionally, base oils and additive concentrations should be compatible to avoid clogging.

For optimal engine performance, use synthetic oils. They have fewer impurities than petroleum-based conventional oils, increasing the service life of your lawn mower.

Always check your owner’s manual before using a new oil to confirm it’s appropriate for your engine.

I’m a car mechanic with 23 years of hands-on experience in the automotive world.

I created this blog to share my passion and extensive knowledge with fellow car enthusiasts and DIYers.

Throughout my career, I’ve gained expertise in automotive repair, maintenance, and troubleshooting, which I now happily pass on to my readers.

My commitment to excellence and continuous learning has made me a trusted authority in the industry.

I’ll provide you with practical tips, reliable advice to help you tackle your car-related challenges with confidence.

Mower Hard To Start When Hot – Mechanics causes fixes checklist

Stop to empty the grass bag, and the mower won’t restart? You’re not on your own, I had this exact problem with a Briggs engine, and the cause of the problem surprised me.

So what’s wrong with a mower that’s hard to start when hot? Hard hot starting mower issue is most likely caused by a failing coil, but there are other possibilities:

Now let’s take a look at all the simple stuff first before we go deeper.

This post covers the complete diagnosis and repair process. If, however, you need video help, check out “Mower won’t start video”. It walks you through the complete process, from diagnosing no-start issues (including hot-start issues) to repair.

Check The Oil Level

OK, I know this sounds like it’s not relevant, but some mowers won’t allow the engine to start/restart if the oil level is low – it’s designed that way to help protect the engine from a critically low oil level.

The oil should be checked regularly every time you fill the gas. Most mowers will take from empty.6 lt. of 5w30 or 10w30. Mowers don’t like to be overfull either, so add just a little at a time. If in doubt, Check out “Lawn mower oil level check.”

Check The Spark Plug

Plugs come in a variety of lengths and heat ranges. If the wrong plug is fitted to your mower, it can cause issues, including hot start failures. It’s a good idea to check the correct plug code with your engine maker.

It’s always worth having a spare plug; it allows you to troubleshoot quickly by replacing the plug with a known good one. Sometimes simply changing the plug will fix the problem, and you only invest a couple of minutes. Check out “Spark test video”.

Spark

A spark plug is the most likely cause of a hot starting problem and is the easiest problem to solve. A new spark plug should be fitted at the start of every season.

What Is A Coil?

A coil is a solid-state unit that is dedicated to producing a voltage at every revolution of the engine. It works hard and is exposed to high temperatures; it lives right above the cylinder head next to the flywheel.

Coils are made from copper wire and wound around a metal core, known as a winding. Most coils will have two independent winding – primary and secondary.

How a Coil Works

The flywheel on the top of the crankshaft has a magnet attached, and every time it passes the coil, it creates a voltage in the windings. A transistor built into the coil controls the spark by opening and closing the circuit.

The high voltage travels along the plug wire, searching for ground. The spark plug provides an almost perfect path to the ground, and so the positive voltage is made the jump from the plug electrode to the ground; this is where the spark occurs.

The process takes milliseconds to unfold and is repeated every revolution for as long as the engine is running.

Need info on how small engine ignition system works, check this out.

Coil Control

A mower engine is shut down by stopping the voltage from reaching the plug; this is done by offering the coil voltage a shorter, easier path to the ground. So when you release the bail lever, you’re offering the voltage a perfect path to the ground, and since it loves a shortcut, the engine shuts off.

If the coil control wire is chafing off a ground source, the engine will not run or run intermittently.

The coil is a non-serviceable item. Examine the plug cap for arcing and the coil wire for chafing. If damaged, it will cause an intermittent no-start. Higher temperatures create higher resistance to the flow of voltage; that’s why coils usually fail when the mowers are hot and start working again when the engine cools.

The enemy of electrical systems is moisture, so a mower should always be kept indoors in a ventilated area.

The Coil Plug Test

In the following guide, we will test the spark plug, coil wire, plug wire cap, bail lever, and the stop/start switch. You won’t be surprised to know that there is a special plug spark tool called an in-line spark testing tool.

Check out the “Small engine tools page” to see the spark plug tester I use. It’s simple to use and gets the job done.

The tool loads up the coil, wire, cap, and plug, and so is a preferred way to test for spark. Anyway, we’ll do it MacGyver style.

Spark Check

Tools – For this test, you will need a new plug, plug spanner, insulated pliers, and a kind helper.

1 Remove – Hold the plug against the metal of the engine (Ground) using the insulated pliers, be sure to ground it well as poor grounding will lead to misdiagnosis.

2 Replace – Replace the plug with a test plug and check for spark again.

3 Pull – The helper now attempts to start the mower while you watch the plug spark.

Coil

4 Cap – If you have no spark or it’s poor, you may have a faulty: Spark plug wire, Plug cap: Bail lever cable: Short circuit of coil control wire: Coil damage.

If your spark is good and the problem still persists, then check out “carburetor cleaning.”

5 Wire – Plug wire damage can be caused by old age, mice, or chafing of the mower body.

If all looks OK, move on and check the bail lever and switch.

Bail Lever

6 Bail – Check that the bail lever cable is tight. If not, adjust it. Most models will have an adjuster at the handlebars or at the engine. If the bail lever isn’t pulling all the way, the mower won’t start.

7 Switch – The bail lever is connected to the engine brake, which usually incorporates a simple on-off switch. When the lever is released, a brake block pushes against the flywheel, slowing the engine down; at the same time, the simple ground on-off coil control switch is operated.

Check that the cable is operating the assembly.

Replace Coil

8 Coil – If all checks out okay, then remove the pull start assembly, and replace the coil. It’s not uncommon for them to fail, I replace lots, and the good news is – they’re easy to fit!

9 Remove – Remove these two bolts and remove push-on wire connector. Coils are specific to each model, so check your engine type code before ordering.

10 Wire – On the underside of the coil, there is a single push on the wire connector; this is the coil control wire, usually on the underside of the coil.

Coil – Ordering a coil online is easy, but you will need your engine number or look for a part number. Although all coils look the same, they’re not. Check out the Amazon link below for common coil types.

11 Wire – Place a business card between the flywheel and coil. This creates just the right air gap. Push the coil snug against the business card and tighten the two bolts.

Fit push on wire connector. Reassemble don’t forget to remove the business card.

Engine May Be Overheating

This can cause serious damage; common reasons for an overheating mower: engine running lean; using the wrong plug or fuel type; air cooling fins or fan obstructed.

Running Lean

A lean running engine is lacking fuel or getting too much air – the air/fuel ratio is off. The extra air could be from a carburetor fault or a vacuum leak somewhere in the engine.

Ethanol Gas

Small engine manufacturers recommend regular gas or e10 ethanol. E15 and e85 burn hotter and will damage the engine; worst of all, it voids your warranty.

Air Cooled

Small lawn mower engines are engineered with clever cooling fins that help cool the engine by having a larger surface area exposed to the atmosphere. These fins get packed with old dry grass, which, if not cleaned, starts to act as insulation, causing the mower to overheat.

The solution is simple enough, remove the plastic engine covers and clear the grass with compressed air.

Low Oil Level

Oil is used to cool as well as lubricate. When the oil level is low, it will cause engine temps to rise. Engine components like coils and plugs will fail when they get too hot.

Is It A Mechanical Fault?

Total failure is rare, but it does happen; problems often only show up then. Coincidence? No, metal expands as it heats, problems such intake manifold cracks/gaskets, cylinder head gaskets tend to leak when the engine is up to temperature, bearings, and valve train uglies are at their worst then too.

Cylinder head and intake gaskets are not expensive or challenging to replace, but anything deeper in the engine may not be economically viable to repair. Often a whole engine is cheaper, faster, and, as Spock would say, “the logical choice.”

A compression test will rule a mechanical fault in or out. You’ll need a compression test gauge; you’ll find all these tools on the “Small engine tools page”.

Is It Getting Fuel?

Most mowers will typically have a lever to control the choke; more recent engines from Briggs Stratton and Honda offer a thermostatically controlled automatic choke system. It’s a simple setup.

A thermostat positioned beside the muffler pushes open the choke plate progressively as the engine heats. The system is a great idea, no doubt; no more fiddling around with choke levers or priming bulbs.

Some of the BS auto choke carburetors tend to supply too much fuel to the cylinder when hot starting; this floods the spark plug, causing a no-start. They have since modified the carburetor. So if you have an auto choke, Briggs, with the hot start problem, go ahead and swap out the carburetor.

Need more info on the fuel system, carburetor components, and how they work, you can check them out here.

In the guide below, we will check that the choke is working correctly. The test will apply to both auto and manual choke systems but not to the priming bulb-type carburetor.

AFR

Gas engines run best when the ratio of air to fuel is 14.7 to 1. Meaning 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel, also known as an air-fuel ratio (AFR).

Using the choke or priming bulb enriches the fuel mixture, which counteracts the lean condition caused by the dense cold air on a cold start.

Auto Choke

Most mowers will typically have a lever to control the choke; more recent engines from Briggs Stratton and Honda offer a thermostatically controlled automatic choke system. It’s a simple setup.

A thermostat positioned beside the muffler pushes open the choke plate progressively as the engine heats. The system is a great idea, no doubt; no more fiddling around with choke levers or priming bulbs.

Choke

Some automatic choke systems are prone to over-fueling when hot starting. If your mower has a priming bulb, this test does not apply. An engine fitted with a priming bulb-type choke that’s hard to start hot and is smoky – will likely need the carburetor cleaned or replaced.

12 Choke Off – When the throttle is set to run – the choke plate should be open.

Often a choke plate may be partly closed even though the throttle lever is set to run – adjusted cable. Your mower may not have a choke lever; you may have an auto choke; this test will still apply.

Check the choke plate when hot; it should be open. If not, check for binding in the linkages / failed thermostat.

13 Choke On – The choke plate is closed (on position). This is the correct position for starting a cold engine.

Check that the choke closes fully when the choke is lever-operated; if not, adjust the cable. If you have the auto choke system – the choke plate should be in the closed position as per the picture when the engine is cold.

If not, check for binding or fault with the thermostat choke control unit – fitted against the muffler.

Replace Carburetor – It’s also quite common for carburetors to fail, causing either too much or too little fuel. Cleaning the carburetor is always a good plan, and if this doesn’t help, replace it.

Replacement Briggs Stratton carburetors are inexpensive and easy to fit.

Check out the Amazon common carburetors link below.

Related Questions

How do you fix a mower that overheats? Remove the engine cover, and using a hand brush or compressed air, remove the dry grass clippings from the engine cooling fins. Check also that you’re using the correct gas; regular gas is best for small engines, e10 is OK, but e15 or e85 will cause the engine to overheat.

Lawnmower won’t start oil on a spark plug? The most common reason for oil on a mower spark plug is too much oil in the engine, but there are other possible causes:

What Is The Best Oil For A 4-Stroke Mower?

Choosing the correct oil can make a huge difference in how your 4-stroke lawn mower runs, but you aren’t sure what is the best oil to use. Don’t worry! You are on the right page, and we are here to help. We did the research, and here’s what we found.

The best oil for use in 4-stroke lawn mowers is grade SAE 30. The synthetic variations, SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30 can also be used for improved engine performance and longer serviceability life.

Using the correct oil is crucial for the lawn mower’s performance and long serviceability life. It ensures that the equipment runs at its best. In this post, we will dig deep into what makes the best oil type and brand under certain conditions. We will also discuss the consequences of using the incorrect engine oil type. Let’s begin!

Why Choose The Best Oil For 4-Stroke Lawn Mowers?

For homeowners who enjoy caring for their lawns, the lawn mower is their best friend. As such, proper care and maintenance are crucial for the engine to perform effectively. The lawn mower engine should be operated using the correct oil.

Oil is the main ingredient to keep the engine running. The lubricating and cooling capabilities of oil can’t be understated. It makes all the moving parts of the combustion engine run smoothly. The engine parts can work at high speeds and even at extreme temperatures.

However, not all engine oil is formulated to be the same. Each has unique elements and viscosity grades that let the 4-stroke lawn mower run smoothly at certain air temperatures.

Every user must determine what engine oil type meets his mowing and lawn mower’s requirements.

Choosing The Best Oil For A 4-Stroke Mowers

With the advent of technology, choosing among various engine oil types in the market can be challenging. With the correct oil, it affords prime engine health and longer useful life. Whether you have a walk-behind or a ride-on mower, the following is a helpful guide to knowing the best oil.

Standard Oil

SAE 30 is the standard oil for 4-stroke lawn mowers. Here are its elements:

  • Choose this oil type if you mow in a warm or hot climate, (a t emperature range is 40-100 Fahrenheit or 4-38 Celcius). Even if you live in colder regions, you won’t start mowing until the temperature is warm again.
  • Specially formulated for small to mid-size engines. 4-stroke lawn mower engines fall into this category.
  • Best for 4-cycle engines. Nowadays, most lawn mowers in the market are designed with 4-cycle engines, and 2-cycle engines are becoming less common.
  • Highly adaptive since the viscosity doesn’t alter due to its wide operating temperature range.
  • A non-detergent motor oil, best for small engines. It contains no additives that trap dirt and dissolves oil sludge until the next change oil.
  • Economical and flexible. This is the same standard oil you can use in your car and truck.
  • Commercially available in hardware, automotive shops, DIY shops, and similar establishments, hence, accessibility is not an issue.
  • Endorsed by Briggs and Stratton, the leader in small engines.

Synthetic Oils

Synthetic oils are more refined and afford improved performance and higher protection for the lawn mower engine. The synthetic variations that can be used are SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30.

SAE 10W-30 is thinner oil, perfect for low temperatures below 100 Fahrenheit.

SAE 5W-30 is much thinner, perfect for extremely low temperatures; that is, the best bet for icy climates of up to.20 degrees Fahrenheit.

  • With the same viscosity grade of 30, these are fine substitutes for SAE 30.
  • Artificially blended with chemical compound additives that make them slippery, thus minimizing friction, perfect for providing lubrication in cold weather.
  • Undergoes a rigid process to remove impurities, thus prolonging the serviceability life of the engine. It protects the engine from rigid wear and tear.
  • The only drawback is that it is more expensive.

You might be interested to learn about engine oil at low temperatures. We have these posts for you:

What Are The Recommended Brands of Engine Oils for 4-Stroke Mowers?

Here are some of the recommended brands of standard oil SAE 30 and its synthetic variations that can be used for 4-stroke lawn mowers:

This is the Husqvarna brand, specially formulated for 4-cycle engines of mowers. It optimizes engine performance and minimizes engine deposits to protect from sludge and varnish. It contains additives to minimize corrosive and mechanical wear.

hyundai, lawnmower, engine, 43cm, 139cc

This SAE 30 for 4-stroke engine oil is available on Amazon. Check it out.

This is the Royal Purple brand which can be bought in 32 ounces in a bottle or can. It affords your lawn mower better protection from corrosion and improved fuel efficiency. It contains antioxidants to prevent oil from degrading at high heat.

This SAE 30 motor oil is available on Amazon. Check it out.

The STP brand of premium small engine oil is recommended for SAE 10W-30. This is specially formulated for use in push mowers and tractors. It is an all-weather synthetic oil that can be used both for cold and warm climates. Not only during operation but also storage between mowing seasons, your machine is protected from corrosion by keeping the engine components clean. This brand is packaged in 32 fluid ounces in cans.

This STP 4-cycle oil is available on Amazon. Check it out.

The Briggs and Stratton brand SAE 5W-30 is a fully synthetic oil that is perfect for extremely cold temperatures. Your mower can operate smoothly on wet grass and withstand slippery and rough terrain. Though relatively expensive, this brand has earned exceptional product reviews from its users.

This Briggs Stratton 5W-30 is available on Amazon. Check it out.

Understanding Engine Oil Codes

When you shop for engine oil for your 4-stroke lawn mower, aside from the different brands, don’t be daunted by the various numbers and codes printed on the bottle label. Each code explains how well the oil performs in different weather conditions. The o utdoor temperature has a direct impact on engine oil viscosity or weight. Viscosity measures the thickness or consistency of oil during specific air temperatures.

The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) sets the industry standards for engine oil types. The numbers displayed on the packaging label mean the oil’s viscosity, ranging from 0 to 60. Higher numbers mean high or hot temperatures. The higher the number, oil becomes less viscous or lighter. Therefore, higher numbers are used for warm weather. At low or cold temperatures, oil viscosity increases, or oil gets thicker and heavier. Hence, low numbers work for the cold weather.

To illustrate, SAE 30 is a monograde oil since it displays one viscosity grade of 30. This is rated for hot viscosity. This explains why it is limited to use in warm temperatures only.

The synthetic versions, SAE 5W-30 and SAE 10W-30, are multigrade oils since they contain two numbers, separated by ‘W,’ which stands for ‘winter.’ The preceding number means viscosity at low temperature, while the number after W translates to viscosity at high temperature.

Multigrade oils, in contrast to SAE 30, have a wider temperature tolerance. This explains why they can be used in extreme temperatures.

For example, a lower number after W, such as W20, isn’t a good choice because it is very thin and cannot properly lubricate. This can cause engine overheating.

In SAE 5W-30, the grade is much lower before W, perfect for cold temperatures. This explains why this grade is used for extremely cold or icy climates.

Learn more about engine oil types in this post:

What Happens If Incorrect Engine Oil Type Is Used?

You can’t just use any oil in your lawn mower, so ensure you’re using the recommended engine oil in your machine. Using the incorrect oil type may damage the mechanical parts of your 4-stroke lawn mover. At worst, it may damage the engine, which can cause serious issues.

Another serious consequence is that it may put your mowing operation on hold, thus causing more losses and inconveniences.

Here are the effects of using the incorrect engine oil type:

  • less friction on the moving parts that will cause overheating quickly
  • oil leaks due to thin oil; it will just flow freely and drip like water
  • oil lacks stickiness and is unable to trap dirt resulting in more residue
  • undue stress on the moving mechanical parts due to less lubrication
  • faster wear and tear of the engine and the machine as a whole
  • costly repairs to the engine or even the whole equipment

How Much Oil Does A 4-Stroke Mower Take?

The amount of oil needed for a lawn mower engine depends on the size and make of your 4-stroke lawn mower. Generally, you will need between 400-600 ml of engine oil. Ride-on mowers typically need between 1-2 liters of oil. This is the volume of oil that you will need during every oil change.

Just a tip, do not mix old oil and new oil. If there is still unused oil at the crank when you start to have an oil change, you need to discard them before pouring new oil. You must drain the old oil from the engine crank and discard it properly.

If you wish to learn how engine oil is disposed of, this post is worth reading:

The Takeaway

The best oil is the correct oil! It is important to use the correct oil for your 4-stroke lawn mower for good lubrication and to function effectively. This way, you will enjoy your lawn care equipment for many more years.

Air temperature and oil viscosity are the two important factors when choosing the best engine oil type. Opt for SAE 30 for warm temperatures. And SAE 5W-30 and 10W-30 for warm and cold climates.