Champion Chainsaw Carb Adjustment: What You Need To Know?
Champion chainsaw carburetors have three adjustment screws:
Dismantling the carburetor.
A carburetor such as we will consider is installed on many saws of similar brands such as. Poulan, Mc Culloch, Max Cut, CHAMPION
We unscrew all three screws (as shown on the signs) and remove the top cover of the saw from the case.
We remove from our case (shown in the figure) an air filter. A filtering foam rubber air element (green foam in the figure).
We immediately unscrew the two nuts, and remove the air filter housing itself.
In order to remove the housing of this air filter, it is simply not enough to simply remove it from two bolts. He will not act in film. He will be prevented by the ledge, which is indicated on the arrow.It is necessary to apply very little upward force to the filter housing until the protrusion is slightly higher than the very top edge of the chainsaw crankcase, and remove.
We work on the right side of us carburetor. We remove a fuel hose (as on the top arrow) and after that draft of a drive of the air choke.
Finally, remove the carburetor and remove the tip of this cable from the drive lever of this throttle.
On our left side we also tighten the gas hose together with the carburetor fitting.
The carburetor is now removed and ready for further disassembly.
In the example we are considering. A chainsaw, confusing, that is, there is no gasoline in the gas tank. Therefore, when we removed the gas hose on the right side of this carburetor, fuel did not come out of the hose at all. Your tank can also be full, and therefore after working with a saw, not so much time can pass.The fuel in the tank is under slight pressure, so after removing the hose from it, fuel will start to run out.
Prepare a clothespin or clamp in advance or an ordinary nut on 13.
We completely unscrew the idle speed screw and the screw securing the carburetor cover on top.
Then remove the top cover. An area of the carburetor will open, which is called the fuel pump where the blue transparent gasket is the fuel membrane.
On the left side of the carburetor, remove two screws (according to the instructions, the screws are designated L and H), before removing the spring clip from them. When assembling the carburetor, these screws must not be mixed up; screw H has an annular groove; if not, mark it with any screw.
From the bottom, remove the four screws and remove the very bottom cover of the carburetor.
We remove the knot of this needle valve. For this purpose, remove the screw indicated by the arrow in the figure. Under the two-arm lever do not lose there is a small spring.
Champion chainsaw carburetor: and its adjustment
Champion chainsaw carburetors have three adjustment screws:
L. Jet screw for adjusting low revs
H. Jet screw for adjusting high revs
Screw. T at the Partner and Husqvarna (at Calm LA). Adjustment of the idle speed of the chainsawChampion chainsaw carburetor
Screws H and L adjust the ratio of the gasoline-air mixture determined by the opening of the carburetor throttle. When the screws are loosened, the mixture is enriched, and the revolutions increase accordingly; when the screws are twisted, the mixture becomes leaner. The revolutions fall.
Screw T (LA) is used to adjust idle speed. Main “customization” Chainsaws are made at the factory during the final test. The carburetor, as a rule, is adjusted to supply a richer (than optimal) fuel mixture. Factory adjustment is necessary to keep the first hours of operation of the saw. Then (optionally) a more precise carburetor adjustment is made.Chainsaw Carb Adjustment Screws
We begin the adjustment by adjusting the idle speed, for this we rotate the T (LA) screw counterclockwise, achieving a complete stop of the circuit at stable engine speeds.Champion chainsaw carburetor deviceDetailing of carburetor chainsaw
For further fine adjustment, you need a tachometer and it is better to entrust it to specialists, especially since in most cases it may not be needed.Carburetor Adjustment Patriot 4518 ChainsawWe begin the tool setup with screw L, then use screw H and finally screw T (LA).
We find the highest idle speed, for this, slowly turn the screw L in different directions. After finding the position of the highest engine speed, turn screw L 1/4 turn counterclockwise. If the chain rotates at idle, screw T should be turned by turning it clockwise until it stops.
Screw N adjusts the power and speed. Adjusting the carburetor to lean mixture leads to excess speed, overheating of the engine and failure of the piston chainsaw.
We warm up the engine of the chainsaw at idle for at least 10 seconds and turn the screw N 1/4 turn counterclockwise. Let the engine run for about 10 seconds, then check the maximum engine speed with a tachometer. If the maximum speed does not match the passport, the operation should be repeated. If the mixture is too rich, the muffler starts to smoke, when the saw is too poor, the saw squeals and overheats.We finish the adjustment by setting the idle speed, as already described above. The idle speed is set correctly if the engine runs smoothly at minimum speed and the chain does not rotate.A carburetor can be considered adjusted if the engine accelerates quickly and resembles a four-stroke full-throttle sound.
It is important!
As you know, the Champion chainsaw enjoys a well-deserved popularity in our country both among construction and logging organizations, and among many owners of household plots and suburban cottages. Such an increased demand for a chainsaw is connected, first of all, with a rather long service life and its absolute reliability in operation.
And for the Champion chainsaw to work properly, timely carburetor adjustment is necessary, which not only ensures the efficient operation of the entire tool, but also significantly extends its service life.And such adjustment can only be carried out with a properly tensioned chain and a cleaned air filter. The carburettor of the Champion chainsaw is adjusted by means of three screws and is carried out in two stages: with the engine turned off and during its operation. First, the screws for maximum and minimum revolutions are turned clockwise until the engine stops. And then, without stopping, turn the adjusting screws in the opposite direction by 1.5 turns.The second stage involves the adjustment of idling during engine operation. But, before proceeding to the second stage, it is necessary to warm up the chainsaw engine thoroughly within five minutes. And then when the engine is idling, slowly turn the adjusting screw clockwise. But, as soon as the chain begins to move, it is necessary to immediately begin turning the screw in the opposite direction, counterclockwise.For an inexperienced person, performing all these manipulations to correctly adjust the carburetor can cause certain difficulties. And therefore, it is better, nevertheless, to turn to professionals, with the help of which the carburetor will be quickly adjusted and the Champion chainsaw will be able to work without interruptions. Experienced specialists will not only help you adjust the carburetor, but also tell you how to use Champion chainsaw correctly.
Determination of wear on the cutting chain
Before each start of work, particular attention should be paid to the appropriate sharpening rules and the tension of the cutting chain. The chain tension is correct if the chain adheres to the underside of the tire and is easily rotated manually. To do this, the chainsaw chain brake must be released.
The chain to the chainsaw requires sharpening in such cases:
-when sawdust arising from sawing wet wood looks like wood flour.
-the cutting edge is noticeably damaged.
-during sawing, the saw is pulled left or right. This is caused by uneven sharpening.
The timely determination and elimination of the level of chain wear for a chainsaw is the key to the long service life of the entire cutting headset.
Chainsaw Break-In Instructions
Before starting operation of any chainsaw imported, its preliminary break-in is required. It is necessary, on the one hand, to extend the life of a gasoline engine. During the break-in phase, the moving parts must first be run in to each other, as in the drive mechanism there is an increased friction resistance. On the other hand, during the break-in, you can acquire the necessary skills for working with a chainsaw. This is especially important for those who are working with a chainsaw for the first time.
When working with a chainsaw, use only branded oils when preparing the fuel mixture. The brands of oil that can be used to prepare the fuel mixture are indicated in the instruction manual. Strictly observe the required proportions of oil and gasoline. The octane number of gasoline used must not be lower than 90 (except when specified in the operating instructions).
Before you start the chainsaw, be sure to check for oil in the tank for chain lubrication. At high speeds, if the chain is not lubricated, the chain and the tire may fail. During operation, you can easily check for chain lubrication. With the chainsaw running at high speeds, direct the tire onto a blank sheet of paper. With normal grease, a strip of oil will be visible on the sheet.
Carefully read the instructions, those sections relating to starting a hot and cold engine. The principle of starting the engine is the same in all saws. Differences can only be in the arrangement of the saw controls (STOP button, choke lever). Remember to check the position of the inertia brake before each start. The inertia brake must be turned off. When the inertial brake is off, the chain on the tire is pulled freely by hand (this operation can only be carried out with working gloves).
When the chainsaw is running with the inertia brake engaged, the chainsaw body will melt in the clutch area and the chainsaw may ignite. Repair, which is necessary in this case, will be recognized as not warranty, and will be made only at the expense of the client.
Run-in must be done within 3-4 hours. It is forbidden to run the chainsaw in idle mode for a long time. Allowed to idle for 15-20 minutes with periodic engine shutdown with an interval of 20-30 seconds. Then it is necessary to continue running in operating mode with a small load. This implies sawing small diameter wood with minimal operator effort.
After running the chainsaw, it is necessary to present it to the service center for the control setting of the carburetor. Adjustment may only be carried out by a qualified technician. After setting, you can use the gas tool in accordance with the operating instructions.
It is recommended that you periodically (about 1 time every six months) present the gas tool to a service center to carry out maintenance work and check the carburetor settings. This service is paid.
Technical Parameters of Saw Chains
When choosing a chain for a chainsaw, you need to pay attention to several important characteristics:
- Number of links;
- Chain pitch
- Thickness of the leading link;
- Purpose of use.
In addition, on our website you can select the chain according to the model of the saw through the chain saw directory.
Number of Chain Links. It is determined by the internal teeth of the chain.
Chain pitch. The distance between three consecutive rivets divided by two. This is a determining parameter, and depending on its value, all existing circuits are divided into five groups in increments of 1/4 ’’, 0.325 ’’, 3/8 ’’, 0.404 ’’ and 3/4 ’’.A 1/4 ’’ (6.35 mm) pitch is characteristic of small chains mounted on low-power one-handed saws.
Chains with increments of 0.325 ’’ (8.25 mm) and 3/8 ’’ (9.3 mm) are the most common options. Than 80% of the saws produced worldwide are equipped with them.
The 0.404 ’’ (10.26 mm) and 3/4 ’’ (19.05 mm) steps distinguish chains with larger links and increased performance. For several decades, they were equipped with Russian-made saws, but now they are installed only on powerful felling saws and harvester equipment.
The larger the chain pitch, the larger the links that make it up and the higher its performance, but the wider the cut. To overcome the increasing resistance to cutting, a more powerful saw is required. Chains with small steps have other advantages. A larger number of teeth per unit length, a smooth movement in the cut and, accordingly, reduced vibration, a cleaner cut.
Lead Thickness. During operation, the chain slides into the groove of the tire, and this slip should be smooth, without hooks and at the same time without unnecessary “chatter”. The thickness of the shank and the thickness of the groove must strictly correspond to each other, which increases the reliability of the landing chain and eliminates the likelihood of its “jump”. All are provided in five standard sizes:
- 1.1 mm (0.043 ’’) for low power saws
- 1.3 mm (0.050 ’’) household and semi-professional chains,
- 1.5 mm (0.058 ’’) powerful and productive saws,
- 1.6 mm (0.063 ’’) and 2.0 mm (0.080 ’’) are highly professional saws.
Purpose of use imposes its requirements on the circuits used. For example, when it is necessary to saw hard and contaminated wood, or during demolition and construction of structures. It is better to use special Picco Duro or Rapid Duro carbide chains with carbide teeth or pads giving them unrivaled strength and durability. Some work is simply impossible to do without their help.
It is also known that for longitudinal sawing of wood (along the fibers) it is advisable to use special chains. The main difference between the chains of the longitudinal and transverse type is the angles of attack of the cutting links. For cross-cutting chains, they are 25–35 degrees. Longitudinal chains (such as Stihl Picco Micro X chains) have sharper angles of 5 to 15 degrees.
The use of chains inappropriately for their purpose leads either to reduced performance, or to increased “aggressiveness”, strong vibration and additional load on the chainsaw engine.
Additional chain characteristics are profile height and depth of cut.
Profile height. Chains are high and low profile depending on the height of the cutting edge above the plane of the guide rail. High-profile chains are usually used for professional purposes to obtain maximum sawing performance. Low-profile chains are installed on chainsaws for household and amateur class, as Due to the increased support area of the cutting links and the reduced thickness of the cut chips, they are safer.
Cutting depth. This is the size of the gap between the upper face of the tooth and the cutter limiter, which regulates the thickness of the chips. Most often, samples with gaps of 0.025 inches (or 0.635 mm) and 0.030 inches (or 0.762 mm) are found, less often with gaps of up to 0.07 inches (or 1.778 mm), the latter are intended for machine felling units.
Depth of cut largely determines sawing performance. The larger the gap, the higher the performance. The flip side to performance is vibration. So chains with a small depth of cut in the cut move softer, less “twitch”. Therefore, to balance vibration and performance, often with a large pitch, cutters with a shallow depth of cut are installed on the chain, and vice versa.