Changing the blade on a Metabo mitre saw

changing, blade, metabo, mitre

Cutting saw repair and adjustment lessons for troubleshooting

The edges were “licked” before I did. If you try to turn the bolt with a small gas wrench while holding the disc with your hand, it twists with the shaft (the large black one that the disc is attached to). the large washer stays in place. Which way to turn in general?

Vyacheslav Morozov. Open the casing of the saw blade there on the shaft there are two tips for a wrench 17-19 with narrow thin jaws. Usually grind the horn, put a wrench in and twist the plucked bolt counterclockwise. You can change the bolt while you’re at it.

Hitgher. ec as it is ). I will try it later and let you know. Thanks!

Vyacheslav Morozov wrote: If you try to rotate the bolt with a small gas wrench while holding the disc with your hand, it twists along with the shaft

A couple of times hitting it with a sledgehammer before unscrewing it helps in most cases.

Morozov Vyacheslav. What does the engine mount have to do with it? The cover that covers the saw blade. Turn the saw over with the sole up, move the blade guard away and look at the back of the disk that goes to the motor there on the shaft.

))). It is level. What is the saw blade is, I think, a thick washer, put on the shaft (like on the angle grinder). I put a thin screwdriver between this washer and the housing up to the stop with the shaft, twisted the disk by hand, probing with the screwdriver. also flat.

You could try welding a nut onto the bolt. It will also warm up the bolt.

Gloom80. If there is any way to lock the shaft, I will unscrew the bolt, then replace it.

Vyacheslav Morozov. And what is the hole in the cross washer near the bolt?

SerShe wrote: What is the hole in the cross washer near the bolt?

Looks like it was a bent “whisker” to secure the washer to the flange.

Vyacheslav Morozov wrote: Gloom80, if somehow to lock the shaft, I will unscrew the bolt, then replace.

Welding the nut will first warm up the bolt, and secondly you can try to unscrew the bolt with a blow, like when you remove the chuck from the drill, even without fixing the shaft.

VEKS. I would also at this position of the disk relative to the rotation made the left (on the angle grinder is the same location, but the rotation in the other direction, the thread is right).

Gloom80. Yes, that’s a thought! Welding is not a problem for me. In what direction then try to unscrew?

Vyacheslav Morozov. Yes already open the casing of the disk and clamp the body of the disk in a vise and rip the bolt with a gas wrench. Judging by the photo disc has not been changed since purchase. From 1979. The saw is 40 years old. It’s in the wash.

Vyacheslav Morozov wrote: Which way to try to unscrew?

“Window” in the outer large washer. for the key that connects it to the shaft. it has “sunk” or “slipped off” the top. The outer large washer should block the shaft. The bolt thread is left. I removed with light strokes with a wooden mallet and welded a nut to the bolt. Thank you all! )

The “window” in the outer large washer is for the key that connects it to the shaft. it “sank” or “slipped off” the top. The outside of the large shaft washer and should lock. The bolt thread is left. I`ve got it off by lightly tapping with a wooden mallet, having welded a nut to the bolt. Thank you all! )

Vyacheslav Morozov. Something told me there was a reason for that window. The disk had to be somehow removed and installed. Glad that was resolved. Happy New Year.

How to cut a board / liner through a circular saw

First, the cutting trimmer line is marked on the board. If high precision doesn’t need anything, you can mark with a pencil and cut right along the line. If you need to align to the millimeter, draw the trimmer line with a knife blade and the cutter is allowed along that line.

Then the board is secured on the stakes with the knee pressed in. The saw blade is fed to the place of sawing with a distance of at least 10 mm. The saw advances toward the drawn line. Combine the serrations with the dash, turn on the power saw and point it toward the edge, moving smoothly forward. Near the end of the saw, simply slow down, then in one smooth tug finish the remaining distance. In this way, you can avoid the chip that is sometimes found in cross-cutting.

Trimmer Setup and Adjustment

Proper trimmer adjustment and fine-tuning, including adjustment of blade speed, will provide the necessary precision when making bucking cuts and will eliminate defective products. Pay attention to the saw blade first. Its seating and outside diameter, the sharpening of the teeth and their geometry must match the material with which it will work. The drive and the guard are designed for a specific disc size and installing other sizes will adversely affect the sawing operation and the operation of the product itself. That’s why you should carefully read the manufacturer’s recommendations in the operator’s manual.

The correct adjustment of the saw can be done by setting the side stop firmly and properly. It must be at right angles to the base or frame and must fit snugly. A chamfer must be provided so that swarf generated during the sawing operation is hidden there, if not provided by the manufacturer. That way the sawing waste will not interfere with the desired angle of cut.

The next step is to check the pivot assembly. The locking rod must fit snugly into the slot in the limb, which may be of a removable or stationary design. For frequently used angles it has ready-made slots, but for specially exposed need a secure fixation. To do this, tighten the knob that locks it when the key is pressed.

Adjustment of 90° horizontally is not done with a straight edge, but with a line at least 10 mm thick, double-sided adhesive tape and plywood. The last element is secured to the base with adhesive tape, and a batten is placed between it and the side stop. A test cut is made, from which the desired angle is controlled with the side stop.

Angle of cutting at an angle is adjusted using two screws located at the back of the machine’s structure at the bottom and top. The first one adjusts the angle of 90°, the second one adjusts the other dimensions of the angles to be set.

The adjustment of the fixed angles on trimmers must be carried out carefully and must always be controlled with the appropriate tool.

Trimmer with speed control allows you to choose the right speed of the saw blade movement to get a quality line for the trimmer cut. For each material the machine works with the number of revolutions is adjusted individually, and experienced professionals get it at the level of subconsciousness.

Repair can be performed by the owner, provided that he understands its structure and has an idea of the principle of its operation, in all other cases it is necessary to contact specialized workshops.

The main faults and their symptoms

The following are typical problems with handheld circular saws.

  • The saw does not start. The mains cable, the mains plug, the start button or the electric brushes can be defective.
  • The tool motor is very hot. These symptoms can be caused by an inter-turn short circuit (breakage) in the armature or stator coils, as well as by too intensive operation of the machine.
  • The gearbox of the machine is overheated. This unit can overheat because of bearing failure or lack of lubrication in the gears.
  • Brushes are sparking. This is usually caused by excessive wear and tear.
  • A glowing ring can be seen around the motor manifold. If you see a circular spark around the motor collector when the machine is running, it could be a faulty armature winding or graphite dust clogging the space between the collector blades.
  • The unit does not develop the required power. The power loss can be due to a drop in line voltage, motor windings, worn electrical brushes, faulty start button.
  • A grinding noise or other noises are heard when the machine is running. These symptoms could be caused by broken gear teeth or faulty bearings.
  • The motor is humming, but the unit is not running. Geared motor may be jammed.

How to change the disc on the mitre saw

I bought a combined sabre saw Zubr ZPTK-210-1500

Комментарии и мнения владельцев 57

Don’t mix up your circular saw blades, there are circular saw blades for crosscut and circular saw blades for rip saws. well that’s if you do not know.

What difference does it make? ? I thought that if I cut something hard, for example a board, there are less teeth, if it is wood chipboard, there are more teeth

There is a difference, I did not know. The end saws have a bunch of teeth. but in the longitudinal ones, after the teeth there is a ledge that has no tooth. technologies. eh

I have an 80-tooth blade that says aluminum wood, same as I mentioned in the thread, only at 80 and size 210. Normal cuts and particle board on the saw table and the end face and aluminum. Maybe, of course, if you work with it from morning till night, it will fail quickly

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If I undercut, I can move the stop bar forward by just a couple of millimeters? My Bosch 8c didn’t saw out of the box either, I moved the stop bar and that’s it.

I will look but I doubt if it will move, maybe it just can’t cut in itself, no saw cut at 45 ° angle. Everything else it saws

Most likely will fit, but you may need to fix some of the elements. I used a Metabo 216, put a 230 disk, but I had to remove the plastic guard.

Look at the analogue of Interskol (if the budget doesn’t allow Makita/DeWALT). When I chose the saw Interskol PTK 216, I also liked the repeatability of cutting is normal, but woodworking machine is separate and needed only facing tool with a broach.

For infrequent use in the garage I am completely satisfied, before a bar to saw off so much time wasted marking and one thing is crooked and chipped, and now well work nicely )))

For quality saws I recommend the not expensive Bosch PCM 8S. I have been using it for 5 years, but I change the wheels for more accurate and sharpened ones or for specialty ones when cutting plastics or aluminum. The table stand with extensions on the sides was also a positive discovery for me.

There are downsides. I have one problem with the clamp and the resin from the Christmas tree laser that clogs up.

corner deflection in complex designs (polyhedral frames) can be compensated for on the last segment by filing its ends at certain micro angles until the entire polyhedral frame comes together.

Don’t keep the guides in the garage, t.к. chrome starts to corrode from dripping condensation. Too bad.

Don’t buy the cheap ones, their mechanics are lame!

changing, blade, metabo, mitre

What is the difference between a circular saw and a saw

basic parameters

Consider the most important characteristics of disks, which will allow you to choose the necessary nozzle from a huge modern assortment.

  • The manufacturing company. Manufacturers of such nozzles are often specialized enterprises in the production of tools. That is why companies may pay less attention to the quality of accessories, focusing on the technique. But this can not be said about untwisted brands like Bosch or Makita, which not only value their reputation, but also have the ability to use higher-quality raw materials and modern processing technology. That is why one of the main parameters of saw blades and cutters is the brand.
  • The next important parameter that determines the capabilities of a sawing head is the size of the wheel, or to be more precise, its outside and fitting diameter. When evaluating this criterion it is necessary to worry about calculations in advance and specify the required depth of cut, which will be a measure of the outside diameter. But when choosing, you should also keep in mind the size of the tool and its protective cover. These dimensions can make it impossible to install a disc of large diameter, as removing the protection is not safe and not always possible.

The arbor hole diameter must be identical to the shaft size. This is necessary for the correct operation of the equipment and the absence of overheating of the circular saw motor.

This is possible if the inside diameter of the blade is larger than the reach of the shaft. because once the blade is attached, it will create imbalance in the tool and consequently a high level of vibration. Depending on the tool, this diameter can be anything from 16 to 32mm.

  • The number of teeth plays an important role in the quality and clarity of the cut, because it determines the number of cutting edges. The more of them, the more accurate is the trimmer’s sawtooth. These bits come with a larger number of teeth (about 90 ).), medium (40-80 pcs.) and small (up to 40 pcs.) number of teeth.

Discs of medium size can be called a universal type. They are capable of sawing almost any material, both horizontally and vertically. Both hard and soft materials can be cut.

  • When considering circular saw blades, other criteria such as the shape and angle of the tooth can be highlighted. The first indicates whether or not you can cut a specific material, and the second indicates the type of cut. Cutting longitudinal cuts with the saw blade is easier if you have a positive tilt of 15 to 20 degrees, but for tougher materials it’s better to cut with the saw blade with a negative tilt of 0 to 5 degrees.5 degrees. There is also a standard tilt type which is considered universal.
  • As for the teeth of the disk, they can be universal, flat, changeable, have a trapezoidal shape or increased inclination. A blade with a flat blade is suitable for making longitudinal cuts in hard types of wood, whereas a blade with a replaceable blade is suitable for cutting softer types of wood and laminated wood. Trapezoidal teeth make clean cuts in soft materials such as plastics.

Teeth with an increased inclination are used for work pieces that can easily break during operation. The universal circular saw blades, on the other hand, are used in almost all applications. They are well suited for occasional use in the home by a layman.

  • And the last important criterion is the thickness of the product. It determines how wide the cut will be. The wider it is, the more material is lost in the process. The thinner the blade, the more susceptible it is to warping and overheating.

All of the above technical specifications of a circular saw blade are written on it. Labeling is usually done in the form of corresponding, intuitive pictures with the necessary numerical data.

There are two kinds of circular saw blades: carbide and monolithic. This division describes a distinction that is immediately apparent. The thing is that some discs have a cutting part soldered onto the teeth, and some discs are simply a single product (monolith).

Monolithic

A distinctive feature of the monolithic blades is the large number of teeth. It’s much easier to get a clean cut with this kind of blade. But it is worth noting the poor sharpening ability of these cutting wheels and the need for periodic re-sharpening of the teeth.

Sharpening metal is not difficult, but the large number of blades slows down the process.

Carbide

Carbide teeth are considered to be more reliable, because they are stronger and don’t require constant sharpening and dressing. These undercutting discs have the most extensive capabilities, they help save time due to their reliability. However, a significant disadvantage is the large number of low-grade fakes, even of famous brands. In such a product, the soldered tips quickly fly off. After only 5 minutes of work on cross-cuts, you may see only a few blades left on the wheel.

But you can successfully fight counterfeit if you pay more attention to the correct spelling of the brand, as well as the high quality and strength of the paint used for marking.

If the technical specifications are decorated on stickers or the ink starts to spill when you touch it, you should not buy this product, it is a fake. Besides, brand disks with hard-alloy teeth are expensive enough, which cannot be said about the products of handicraft (clandestine) production.

Basic parameters

Let’s consider the most important characteristics of discs, which will allow you to choose the necessary nozzle from a huge modern assortment.

  • The producer company. Manufacturers of such nozzles are often specialized enterprises in the production of tools. Therefore, firms may pay less attention to the quality of components, focusing on technology. But the same cannot be said of promoted brands like Bosch or Makita, which not only value their reputation, but also have the ability to use higher-quality raw materials and modern processing technology. Therefore one of the main parameters of saw blades and cutters is the brand.
  • The next important parameter which determines the capabilities of the sawing head is the size of the wheel, or to be more precise, its outside and fitting diameter. When evaluating this criterion it is necessary to care about the calculations beforehand and specify the required cutting depth, which is the measure of the outside diameter. But when choosing also the size of the tool and its guard. These dimensions can make it impossible to mount a disc with a large diameter, as removing the guard is not safe and is not always possible.

The arbor hole diameter must be identical to the shaft size. It is necessary for the equipment to work properly and not to overheat the circular saw motor.

This is possible if the inside diameter of the blade is larger than the circumference of the shaft. Because once the disc is mounted, it will create imbalance in the tool and consequently a high level of vibration. Depending on the tool model, the diameter may have values in the range of 16 to 32 mm.

  • Number of teeth plays an important role in the quality and clarity of the cut, because it determines the number of cutting edges. The more there are, the sharper is the cutting line for the trimmer. Such blades come with a large number of teeth (about 90), the more the trimmer line is cut, the sharper the cutting edge will be.), medium (40 to 80 pc.) and small (up to 40 pcs.) number of teeth.

Medium-sized discs can be rightly called universal. They are capable of sawing almost any material both horizontally and vertically. Both hard and soft types of materials can be cut.

  • When considering saw blades, you can also highlight criteria such as the shape and angle of the tooth. The first one is responsible for the ability to cut this or that material, and the second one for the type of cutting. So, it’s easier to cut longitudinal cuts with the disk with positive inclination from 15 to 20 degrees, and it’s better to cut tough materials with the nozzle with negative inclination from 0 to.5 degrees. There is also a standard tilt type, which is considered universal.
  • As for the blade teeth, they can be universal, flat, interchangeable, trapezoid-shaped, or extended inclined. Flattened discs make good wood slices in hard materials, replaceable discs in softer materials and laminated fibreboard. Trapezoidal teeth cut cleanly through soft materials such as plastics.
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Steeper tines are used for workpieces that can easily split during sawing. Universal cutters can be used for almost any application. They are well suited for occasional use in the DIY industry.

  • And the last important criterion is the thickness of the product. It determines how wide the kerf is. The wider it is, the more material is lost. The thinner the blade, the more susceptible it is to warping and overheating.

All of the above saw blade specifications are listed on the saw blade. The marking is usually done in the form of appropriate, intuitive pictures with the necessary numerical data.

There are two kinds of saw blades: carbide and monolithic. The following subdivision describes the differences that are immediately apparent. The reason is that some discs have a cutting part soldered onto the teeth, and some discs are simply a single piece (monolith).

Monolithic

The monolithic blades are characterized by a large number of teeth. It’s much easier to get a clean cut with these discs. But it is worth noting the poor sharpening ability of these cutting-off wheels and the need for periodic reaming.

Metal is not difficult to sharpen, but the large number of blades slows down the process.

Carbide

Carbide teeth are considered more reliable, because they are tougher and don’t require constant sharpening and re-sharpening. These undercutting discs have the most extensive capabilities, they help save time due to their reliability. However, a significant disadvantage is a large number of low-grade fakes even famous brands. In such products the brazed tips fly off quickly. After only 5 minutes of work on the crosscut, you will see only a few blades left on the blade.

But even with counterfeit can be successfully fought, if you pay closer attention to the correctness of the spelling of the brand, as well as the high quality and durability of the paint, which is made marking.

If the technical specifications are decorated on stickers or the ink starts to spill on contact, you should not take such a product, it is a fake. Besides, branded discs with hard-alloy blades are expensive, but the same cannot be said about handmade (clandestine) products.

Classification of circular saw blades

Depending on the design features, tooling is divided into 2 types:

  • Monolithic. The entire blade is made of tool steel. Its main advantages are low cost, possibility of self-sharpening and repairability. a large margin of safety.
  • Carbide. Base made of tool steel, teeth made of carbide with tungsten carbide added. The main advantages are the high hardness of the cutting edge, a clean cut and a long sharpening interval.

Carbide-tipped discs allow for maximum speed and performance in woodworking, but they have a serious disadvantage. special tools and above-average skills are needed for maintenance.

Changing the saw blade on a mitre saw

Mitra saw Metabo KGS 216 M: reviews and inspections

If you are familiar with the peculiarities of lumber processing, you should know that sawing at an angle is quite challenging. With the saw you can cut it with high precision and the required cutting angle. Mitre plates are now common for the following types of work:

With the help of such equipment, door frames are made, floors are laid, window frames are made and much more. If you decide to choose such an assembly, you should know what features to look out for. Thus, the craftsman must decide for what purpose the purchase is made. If the saw needs to be used fairly infrequently, you can buy a tool with standard features. If you plan to do large-scale sawing operations, you can buy a professional saw.

It is important to take care of safety, because the protective cover is in the tool, it covers the disk during work. Evaluate the size and weight of the device. If these parameters are too impressive, it will complicate the work, and your hands will quickly get tired. Among others in the modern equipment market. Metabo KGS 216 M saw, discussed below.

An overview of the saw

The above equipment will cost consumers 18 300. It is a device with a laser guide and bright LED. These features ensure the accuracy of the work. The workpiece can be securely clamped, which is guaranteed by special clamps.

Saw blades are easy to change because of the spindle lock capability. The protective cover cannot be removed. The manufacturer provides easy access to the brushes, they do not need to contact the service center to replace them. The Metabo KGS 216 M miter saw is equipped with a dust bag to keep the work area clean.

Features

The power of the machine is 1200 W. The unit is powered by an electric brush motor. Working at an angle of 90 °, you can penetrate the material by 65 mm. If you set the angle to 45 °, the maximum cutting width is 205 mm. Among the additional features you need to select the depth of cut setting. The manufacturer supplied the equipment with a 2 m cable. The device weighs 13.5 kg. This provides the ability to move horizontally. Left and right the table can be adjusted 47 °.

Before you buy a Metabo KGS 216 M crosscut saw, you should note that it has no soft start. No constant rotation under load in the device and support. Saw can be tilted to the left at 47 °, and to tilt to the right. 2 °. Number of revolutions per minute reaches 5000. The dimensions of the Metabo KGS 216 M, which you will find useful to read, are 760x475x340 mm. Consumers, such as the device, have a laser and backlight, but there are no parameters for adjusting speed. If you set the angle to 45 °, you can plunge deeper into the material by 36 mm, and the maximum width of the cut at an angle of 90 °, this parameter is 305 mm. Diameter of the saw blade is 216 mm.

READ Unassembled Ferm Fkz crosscut saw

Saws reviews

The Metabo KGS 216 M miter saw, according to consumers, has many positive features, among which are:

  • pulling function;
  • locking saw head; easy access to the brushes;
  • laser guide for precise cutting;
  • Smoothly expanding table extension.

Consumers especially emphasize that they like the fairly solid body, which has a robust design and is made using aluminum casting technology. The saw is fairly easy to transport. Sawdust is effectively discharged in the process and flows into the receiver through the built-in hopper.

Home craftsmen emphasize that the most commonly used angles can be quickly adjusted with a locking point. The saw will be able to handle even the longest rails and panels, where the smooth movement of the table will help. For safe sawing, the manufacturer has supplied the equipment with high stops that can be moved to the side if necessary. The workpiece at the front or top can be securely clamped with material clamps, which consumers say is very convenient. You can use the spindle lock to change the saw blade.

User manual

In the workplace, while the Metabo KGS 216 M saw, whose specifications are described in the article, the order must be maintained. Otherwise the risk of injury increases. The floor must be free of scrap and chips. Work must become meaningful. You cannot start using the machine if you cannot concentrate. The workplace must be well lit.

Do not use the machine near flammable gases or liquids. Do not let the tool get caught in the rain. The equipment must not be operated in damp or wet environments. Miter saw Metabo KGS 216 M, whose manual you should study before you start, has a power cord. It should only be used for the purpose for which it is intended. The extension cord should be checked from time to time and should be replaced if damaged.

Workpieces should not be removed before the saw blade has stopped. Saws are permitted for workpieces whose dimensions allow them to be held while sawing. Use a clamping tool or vise for this. The saw blade should not stop by snapping it on the side. If the tool is not used for some time, the plug must be removed from the socket. Store the tool in a dry place and wear gloves before changing the cutting tool.

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Extension Setup

Metabo KGS 216 M 619261000 miter saw has a table extension. To set it up, remove the extension from the package. There are screws on the guide panel, they must be unscrewed. Boards are inserted into the sockets. In this case, ensure that the support is backed up. The tool lifts with the front legs after you can tighten the bolts on the rails. The master must set the desired width of the table and strengthen its extension with a locking lever.

changing, blade, metabo, mitre

How to replace a circular saw blade?

Looking for information on an older SKIL model or need an instruction manual for an SKIL tool?

Electric circular saw: how to choose and work

There is a small tool that is more versatile than circular saws (also called handheld circular saws). What they are not used for: cutting wood, metal, plastic, slate, fiberboard, particle board and other similar materials. Replace the disk, polish or polish, put on a brush, remove rust. That’s why a tool is always handy when building a bath or home.

We call circular saws because of the shape of the cutting element, which is made in the form of a disk with a cut edge. The size of the disk, the material of which it is made, the shape and parameters of the teeth, the power of the electric motor. Here are the main parameters according to which the tool is chosen.

Metabo KGS 216 M mitre saw

Installment from Alfa Bank in the comfort of your home. We bring the documents to the house!

  • Loan term. from 8 to 36 months
  • Monthly fee 0% from the 1st to the 4th month.
  • starting from the 5th month. 3,5%
  • One-time fee. 0%
  • Insurance service. No!
  • Amount of credit. from 1 000 to 50 000 UAH
  • Initial payment. 0%
  • Settlement and cash services 20 UAH. monthly.
  • Credit period. from 10 to 36 months
  • Monthly commission of 0% from the 1st to 7th month.
  • starting from the 8th month. 3,5%
  • One-time commission. 3,5%
  • Insurance service. no!
  • Loan amount. from 1 000 to 50 000 UAH
  • Initial installment. 0%
  • Settlement and cash services. 35 UAH. monthly.
  • Loan term. from 10 to 36 months
  • Monthly fee. 0% from 1 to 10 months.
  • from 11. monthly. 3,75%
  • One-time fee. 10 %
  • Insurance service. no!
  • Loan amount. from 1 000 to 50 000 UAH
  • Initial payment. 0%
  • Settlement and cash services 20 UAH. monthly.
  • Loan term. from 12 to 36 months
  • Monthly fee. 0% from 1 to 12 months.
  • starting from 13. of the first month. 3,75%
  • One-time fee. 12%
  • Insurance service. no!
  • Amount of credit. from 1 000 to 50 000 UAH
  • Initial installment. 0%
  • Settlement and cash services 20 UAH. monthly.
  • Age from 21 to 70 years;
  • Passport of a citizen of Ukraine and ID code;
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The delivery of the credit agreement is FREE OF CHARGE on the whole territory of Ukraine by the courier service of the Bank!

Metabo end saw KGS 216 M

This saw is useful on construction sites, in joiner’s workshops and in the home, where it can be used for sawing wood.

The Metabo KGS 216 M is a true novelty, which was introduced to the world in the fall of 2014. It has not inherited all the shortcomings of its predecessor and will delight us with incredible work results. Good stability and a swiveling work table facilitate precise working. Unlike its predecessor, the laser pointer and the LED illumination are located on the top, under the protective hood. This solution keeps these parts clean at all times, because no sawdust gets on them. Powerful motor and tilting head make it easy to put even the most incredible imagination into practice. For your comfort, the saw is equipped with a rubber-coated handle and a sawdust collection system.

Features of the Metabo KGS 216 M end saw:

  • powerful engine
  • comfortable carrying handle
  • Tilting and locking the head to the left at an angle of up to 47°
  • workpieces made of die-cast aluminium
  • smart channel for chip evacuation
  • Precise quick setup of the most common angles by clamping points
  • laser for exact indication of the cut (supplied from the mains, no batteries required)
  • integrated stop for measured cuts
  • mitre saw KGS 216 M
  • passport
  • Carbide-tipped saw blade (40 teeth)
  • integrated table extension. 2 pcs.
  • cutting off stop
  • cardboard packaging

Light and mobile

Weight of construction without clamp and table extensions is only 9.4 kg. Easy to carry on location thanks to compact dimensions of 475x465x285 mm and aluminium alloy platform. Comfortable top handle allows you to easily carry the machine from place to place.

Editor’s choice

In the initial category, two tools are the most attractive: Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut and Zubr ZPT-255-1800 PLR. The very compact Metabo KS 216 M Lasercut mitre saw from the renowned Japanese manufacturer has a wide range of features at low cost that allows high-quality cutting of small cross-section parts.

Domestic tool Zubr ZPT-255-1800 PLR, which also has a small cost, in addition to other functions is equipped with the ability to split wooden elements on the length.

Ryobi EMS254L

Tool Ryobi EMS254L from Japanese manufacturer has high power and rpm that guarantees quality cutting. Main distinctive feature. broaching, allowing to cut parts with width more than 300 mm. The working area is illuminated by two LEDs, providing visual control of the parts to be cut. Separate buttons are used to switch on the laser marker and work table illumination. Equipped with work table extensions, workpiece clamp, socket wrench for easy work with the tool.

  • broach
  • depth of cut adjustment
  • laser marker
  • work area illumination
  • dust extraction function
  • turntable extensions
  • clamping clamp for securing the workpiece

Watch the video with a brief demonstration of the tool’s capabilities in action:

Crosscut saw repair with your own hands

In detail: a crosscut saw repair with your own hands by a real master for the website olenord.com.

A few minutes of checking and adjusting your coping saw can help ensure that your machine is as accurate as you’ve always dreamed it would be. Considering that, when making a rectangular frame, even the slightest deviation multiplies by a factor of eight, the importance of correct setting becomes obvious. We’ll show you how to ensure neatness.

If you are still using the standard saw blade that has been installed on your saw since you bought it, which is generally only good for cutting up rough boards on construction sites, it’s time to get a better one that is suitable for carpentry work. Better choose a blade with a negative rake angle that doesn’t lift the workpiece while you’re sawing. Look for a 250 mm saw blade with 60-80 teeth and a 300 mm blade should have 80-100 teeth. These saw blades leave almost no chips when making cross and slant cuts.

Make sure your new disk is at exactly right angles to the machine table. Using a proven square, place it with the block on the saw table and move the ruler to the plane of the blade without touching the teeth (photo in the beginning). The machine manual will tell you how to adjust the stops. Make sure there is not even the slightest gap between the angle piece and the saw blade. Then set the indicator to zero on the tilt scale. Repeat this procedure to fine tune 45° tilt (photo A).

After these adjustments are complete, start by adjusting the rotation angles. First of all, set the disk at an angle of 90° to the stop (photo B). The procedure for this operation depends on the type of stop installed on your machine.

If the stop consists of a single part (photo C), loosen the adjusting screws or screws on both sides and move the right or left end of the stop slightly toward the disk. It is sufficient to move only one end as the other end will automatically be rotated.

The tape clip makes it easy to tighten all four corners of the frame. You don’t have one of these yet? Fasten the parts in the corners with painter’s tape.

If the machine stop has right and left parts, then aligning each at right angles to the disk may cause them to be out of alignment with each other. The correct method of adjustment is to install only one part of the stopper so that it is perpendicular to the disc and fix this position by tightening the screws or bolts. The second part of the stop is then aligned with the first (photo D). Finally, scale pointer is set at 0°. Some saw models don’t have adjustable stops (photo E), that’s why you have to mount the disk and the saw unit at right angles to the stop. To do this, first set the dial indicator to 0° and then loosen the dial screws. Turning table (and scale with it) to achieve perpendicularity of blade and stop. Then tighten the screws to secure the setting. No other angle adjustments are necessary.

The surest way to check the accuracy of a crosscut saw is to make 45° bevels at each end of four pieces of equal section and length, and then assemble the square frame dry by tightening the ells with a band clamp. A bad joint at any corner means you need to check every step of the setup again, and readjust the machine if necessary. Remember that the bevel joints are attractive. With neat settings, you can make others admire your work.

A. Angle adjustment. Plastic drawing square is excellent for checking 45° angles. It has longer sides than the Combi Angle pad.

B. Set the stop at right angles to the disc. With the square shoe against the stop, make sure there is no gap between the square ruler and the plane of the disc.

C. Adjusting the one-piece stop. The right and left side of this one-piece stop are connected by an arch. If one end is shifted, the other end swivels as well.

D. Adjusting the compound stop. Adjust and lock the left side first. Then press the long straight edge against it by laying it flat on the saw table and align the right side of the stop with it.

E. Adjusting the fixed stop. Loosen any screws that hold the scale in place and set the saw blade perpendicular to the stop.

You may have searched for “circular (circular saw) repair”

Many tools of similar categories that are available in construction can’t handle all the work. To have one for all occasions does not work. If it is necessary to cut a bar, pipe, profile and do it evenly, at an angle. the main helpers in it are crosscut or cut-off saws. They are equipped with a powerful electric motor, the characteristics of which are enough to handle even the largest materials. Crosscut saws are most often repaired due to improperly selected discs, mismatch with the material, as well as the work of worn tooling. Power is plentiful, but the main thing is to feed the tool correctly. Do not pressurize it and let it work under its own weight

The main faults of crosscut and cut-off saws. 1) Doesn’t turn on/isn’t turning on correctly-no power, broken wire. 2) Sparks/Gremits/smokes replacement of motor bearings, defective motor. 3) No/no disc rotation. wear of the belt drive or mechanics. Keep tools clean, work with dust extraction systems. Crosscut saw repairs are caused by non-observance of these rules