How to Choose a Saw For a Summer Resident or Owner of a Private House

Currently, the market offers a lot of different tools, which were previously considered quite expensive, but now have quite affordable prices. And now we’ll talk about such a necessary, and sometimes simply necessary thing in the household, like a chain saw.

Difficulty and frequency of operation: saw classification

Modern chain saws according to their capabilities, and accordingly to the tasks to be solved, are divided into three main classes: household, farm and professional. Let’s consider for what purposes each category is intended.

Household

This class is intended for the preparation of firewood for personal use. For example, for a private house or summer house, sawing not very thick logs or pruning knots in the garden. For such saws, the norm is 20 hours of work per month, or about 40 minutes a day. They have low power and low weight. If you need to use the tool from time to time. This category is for you.

Farm

An instrument of this class is also called semi-professional. You can do any job with such a saw. Build a house, cut down trees. You can even perform some tasks of a professional nature. For example, cut knots on logging.

These saws differ from professional ones in lower power, motor resource and tire size. They are not available indicators of continuous operation of a professional tool. The name of the class “farmer” characterizes this type very capaciously.

It is not intended for daily full-fledged work on felling huge pine trees in northern conditions, but it is quite suitable for everyday use in farming, where anything can happen.

Professional

The most powerful category. Its name indicates that the tool of this class is intended for use in maximum modes. The engine life of such saws is up to 2000 hours. For them, normal operation is 16 hours a day and 8 hours without a break. The power of such saws is usually higher than 2000 watts.

It makes no sense to buy such a tool for a home, not only because of the high price. It is believed that even with maximum domestic use, you use a tenth of its potential.

Other criteria

Before choosing a saw, you should pay attention to certain criteria and carefully study them.

Electric or gas motor

It is difficult to say unequivocally that it is better. A chainsaw or its electric counterpart. To begin with, you should consider the advantages and disadvantages of each type of engine.

Chainsaw Benefits:

• Autonomy (lack of cord);
• High power
• Longer tire;
• The ability to work in all weather conditions.

Disadvantages:

• Weight;
• Greater difficulty in operation compared to saws;
• The need to monitor the fuel mixture (do not forget to add oil to gasoline);
• High price;
• Not suitable for indoor use (it is not only about exhaust, but also about noise, 100 dB versus 75 dB for an electric motor).

Video: chainsaw device

Saw Benefits:

• Convenience (launched by pressing a button);
• Ease;
• Even and smooth cut, due to the lack of vibration;
• The best option for working indoors;
• Simplicity in operation;
• Low noise;
• The price is much lower than that of chainsaws.

Disadvantages:

• The presence of a cord (this does not apply to cordless saws);
• Dependence on electricity;
• Low power;
• Continuously works no more than 20 minutes;
• Do not work in high humidity (especially in the rain).

Video: saw device We can say that for both types of engines there are tasks that better correspond to the characteristics of both one and the second. If autonomy is the main thing for you, you should make a choice in favor of a chainsaw. In the same case, if you need a tool for working indoors and there are no problems with electricity, the electric motor will be the best solution.

Weight and size

The sizes of saws of all classes are approximately the same. They have approximately the following dimensions: 450/270/300 mm.

The weight of household-class saws ranges from 5 to 7.5 kg, and the tire length, respectively, from 40 to 50 cm. We can say that the optimal or average weight in this category is about 6 kg.

As for semi-professional saws, here the indicators are approximately the following: weight from 4 to 7.5 kg, average value in the region of 5 kg. Tire length 50 cm.

Professional category saws can have a weight (without tire) of about 4 kg, while they work normally with tires up to 75 cm long.

Power selection

Power is perhaps the main indicator of the tool. It depends on him how quickly and deeply the saw will be able to cut the tree, and whether it will be possible to do this for this particular task. Usually for a household tool, 1-2 horsepower is enough.

For the professional category, there is a large variation in the power of the tool. 2-6 kW. But here there is such an indicator as the ratio of weight and power. After all, it is one thing to fell ordinary trees in a warm climate, and quite another. Frozen spruce in the polar regions of Russia. Accordingly, the power needed is different.

Headset Selection

Saws of all three classes are structurally identical. In simple terms, this is an engine (an electric motor or an internal combustion engine with a clutch), and a replaceable headset, which includes a tire and a chain.

Type and length of tires

The tire is one of the main characteristics of the saw. Her choice is influenced by many factors in each case for a specific task.

There are narrow and flat tires. A distinctive feature of the narrow tire. Narrowed tip. This design solution helps to avoid kickback when the chain enters the cut. Such tires are used mainly on household tools. The wide tip is used in the professional class and for extremely complex work. Lightweight tire consists of a pair of steel sidewalls, the space between which is filled with high-strength polyamide. For a certain kind of work, this characteristic (light weight) can be a serious advantage. Interchangeable Head Tire. Such a headset is installed on a professional high power tool. Used at the most intense loads.

Also of great importance is the tire length. The choice of length depends on the engine power rating. The specifications of any tool should indicate the recommended tire length. Smaller size (within small limits), you can use. Tolerance is usually indicated in the instructions.

But the larger is not recommended categorically. This does not simply result in loss of saw power. The engine can’t cope, it works in an unbearable mode for it, which in the end leads to its rapid deterioration and breakdown.

The tire length is indicated in inches, and may be 10″ (25 cm), 12″ (30 cm), 14″ (35 cm), 16″ (40 cm), 18″ (45 cm).

Circuit requirements

Chain pitch is the distance between adjacent links. Indicated in inches. There are 5 step sizes:

• 0.25″ (1/4″);
• 0.325″;
• 0.375″ (3/8″);
• 0.404″;
• 0.75″(3/4″)

In a household tool, mainly chains with a pitch of 0.325 are used” (for saws up to 3 hp) and 0.375″ for four-horsepower engines. Caliber 0.404″ used in a professional tool that has a minimum of 5.5 liters. With. Power. The extreme lower and upper steps are almost never used.

For each step there is an approximate purpose. For example, for ordinary household cutting of timber or thick logs, for trimming branches or sawing dry trees, 0.325 will be enough”.

Video: how to choose a chain and a tire for a chainsaw

Additional protection

Often (especially for beginners), the cause of injuries can be kickback, or an inertial shock, which is formed at the moment when the chain crashes into a tree. Helps to avoid this phenomenon. Shock absorber, or inertial brake. When choosing a tool, you should pay attention to its availability.

Vibration is another risk factor. Strong vibration can harm the joints. In inexpensive household saws, this problem is solved by the use of rubber gaskets. And in a professional tool. By moving the handle with the tank away from the engine, thus creating a counterweight. If you do not want joint problems in the future, pay attention to the presence of vibration protection.

Lock or throttle lock button. Another useful feature, the presence of which eliminates accidental pressing on the gas. Given the saw’s ability to cause serious injuries, this function will not be superfluous.

Additional shield Designed to prevent hands from contacting a hazardous mechanism at the time of use. Such protection is located at the end of the headset.

Uptime resource

With regard to such a thing as an uninterrupted operation resource, its unified and clear classification still does not exist. In addition, it (classification) is complicated by factors such as regular use, under what conditions you have to work, etc.

That is, you can work with a professional tool on the verge of its capabilities, in super-harsh conditions, and the same tool in a gentle mode. After that, it is incorrect to speak of an equal “margin of safety”.

It is believed that a professional tool has a working life of 1500-2000 hours. But even in this case, different manufacturers define this value differently. Some call the end of the life of the compression drop in the engine to 0.6 from the initial, others mean the first overhaul.

Price and quality

We will try to bring the most popular models of the most famous brands. It is believed that they all fully justify their prices, and the wide variation in the price category of the professional class is explained by the aforementioned difference in power.

Household class:

• Patriot PT 3816 Imperial. 100;
• Hyundai X 360. 110;
• Partner P350S. 150;
• Patriot PT 4518-150;
• Makita EA3202S40B. 150;
• Makita EA3203S40B. Less than 200;
• Hitachi CS 33 EB. 200;
• Husqvarna 240-200;
• Echo CS-350WES-14. 300

Semi-professional saws:

• Huter BS-52. 100;
• Daewoo DACS4516.130;
• Efco 137-200;
• Husqvarna 440Е. 250;
• Echo CS-260TES-10 ″. 350;
• Hitachi CS30EH. 350

Professional Chainsaws:

• Hyundai X 560. 200;
• Patriot PT 6220-200;
• Hitachi CS 40 EL. 300;
• Stihl MS 361-600;
• Husqvarna 372 XP 18″. 670

Video: how to choose a saw

How to use a saw for the first time

The new tool, as well as the saw after the overhaul, requires a break-in procedure before starting work. It is necessary to increase the service life of both the engine and the entire unit.

First you need to soak the chain in an oil bath. Do this as directed by the manufacturer. Usually this is done this way: take a clean container, put a cloth in it and fill it with oil, which is recommended in the instructions, for 4-6 hours.

Running a saw. A simple matter. After installing the chain, turn on the saw and let it idle for several minutes. Then tighten the chain. For sure it is slightly stretched. Work a little with not very thick material and check how the chain is stretched. Now the saw is ready for this job.

Chainsaw running It takes more time and effort.

The first launch must be carried out complete with a headset. If the engine is started without load, this can lead to premature wear. Before starting the engine, you need to do two important procedures:

• Prepare the fuel mixture;
• Check the grease to lubricate the circuit that enters the bus ducts.

Typically, in order to break in both new and reconditioned saws, it is necessary to burn 7-10 tanks of fuel before the tool can give out rated power (without risking failure). And the saw should work at this time at low speeds.

Two-stroke chainsaw motors do not have special units responsible for lubrication. Lubrication is carried out with oil, which is part of the fuel mixture. Therefore, it is extremely important to prepare a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke oil, in the ratio specified by the tool manufacturer.

Gasoline is used with an octane rating of at least 90. It is very important to use high-quality fuel. If the fuel tank of the chainsaw has a green cover, it means that the engine of your saw is equipped with a catalyst, you need to take unleaded fuel for it. If there is no catalyst, leaded gasoline should be used.

The next thing to do is check the lubricant going into the tire channel. This is done as follows:

• Check if there is oil in the tank;
• Inspect the bus channels;
• Check the lubrication of the drive sprocket bearing and the presence of the grease of the driven sprocket.

After you have made sure that everything is fine, you can proceed to the first launch. The following is the procedure for a cold start:

1. Pull the chain so that it rotates freely.
2. Place the saw on a hard, stable surface so that the chain and tire do not touch any objects.
3. Put the chain brake in the idle position.
4. Turn on the ignition.
5. Close the air supply.
6. If your instrument has a decompression valve, press it, this will facilitate starting.
7. We set the throttle valve to start. If your chainsaw has separate controls, pull the choke lever to remove it from the body. If you have a tool with combined control, lock the throttle lever in the intermediate position by pressing it.
8. With a non-working (usually left) hand, we take the saw by the front handle and press it downward.
9. We step with the right foot on the protective shield of the handle.
10. With the other hand, pull the starter handle towards you, until you feel resistance, after which you should make a sharp jerk.
11. Open the choke and restart the saw.
12. After starting the engine, add gas to the maximum and lower the throttle, the start lock will then turn off.

Now let the saw run for 5 minutes at idle. Check the tension, if necessary (usually it arises). Tighten the chain.

It is not recommended to work for a long time at idle, for the reason that in this mode the fuel mixture enters the engine in a minimal amount. In this case, the engine parts are not lubricated enough, which adversely affects them.

Without loading the tire, try cutting thin knots, branches. Recommended mode is:

• 60-90 s. Work in the minimum mode;
• 10-20 s. Idling.

Then stop the saw and check the tension. Repeat the tensioning procedure if necessary.

At the end of the run-in, you should set up the carburetor, it is advisable to do this in the manufacturer’s service.

After developing 6-7 tanks, you get a chainsaw with the characteristics that are laid down in it by the manufacturer.

Well, now you know almost everything you need to start working with a chainsaw. The remaining subtleties and tricks for more effective work will come with experience. Just remember: both a chainsaw and an electric saw are quite dangerous tools, serious safety injuries can result if safety precautions are not followed. These simple rules should not be neglected.

Video: running a chainsaw