How To Sharpen A Chainsaw Chain At Home
Chain sharpening machines
If the chain has plowed the gravel or sandy soil quite hard, then it will hardly be possible to sharpen it with a file with a high quality. Also, file sharpening will not help. With heavy chain wear, because she lost her shape. In such cases, it makes sense to use special machines. Such machines are divided into electric and manual.
An electric machine is the best way to sharpen chains. It is versatile and comes with many settings and benefits such as:
- Setting the chain at the desired angle;
- Drive of the disc exactly to the sharpened edge;
- Automatic clamping of the vice when the disc is lowered onto the chain.
However, its only drawback is the high price. Its purchase is advisable only for workshops and enterprises engaged in the extraction of wood.
Manual machines also give a good sharpening result, and the price of some of them can be commensurate with the devices described above. We will describe the principle of their operation using the example of two models of manual machine tools manufactured by Stihl.
The design of these devices resembles a bow saw, which has a file instead of a blade. The model called “FG 1” mounts directly to the tire of the chainsaw, while the “FG 2” is stationary. These machines are good because you can not only sharpen the chain, but also fit them to the size of the smallest tooth. Although the tuning mechanism is quite heavy, it allows you to sharpen the chain with any tooth parameters and save this setting for subsequent teeth and chains. This allows you to make the teeth perfectly identical to each other.
Chainsaw chain sharpening rules
Since the inner contour of the tooth is quite close to circle, and the chain is made of sufficiently soft metal, sharpening is done with a round file with a small diameter. To sharpen the chainsaw correctly, you need to accurately position the file relative to the tooth. The upper edge of the file should protrude about 1/5 of its diameter relative to the upper edge of the tooth. Before sharpening, find out the parameters of your chain, since the file diameter is selected depending on the chain pitch. Usually it is 4-5.5 mm.
Principle of operation and bluntness of chain links
The chain link tooth has rather complex geometry. The top and side cutting edges are inclined relative to each other at a certain angle, which makes the sharpening operation difficult. Planing wood with a chain tooth is like a planer, and the thickness of the cut layer is controlled by the thickness of the stopper.
With intensive work, the saw teeth quickly become dull. Sharpening may be necessary several times during the day. This problem is especially aggravated by the contact of the chain with the ground. It is enough to hook the ground with the tire once for a couple of seconds, and you need to stop work due to the fact that the saw stops going deep into the wood itself, and the chips become rather small.
The more often you sharpen dull teeth, the less material you have to remove when sharpening the chainsaw chain, and it will last longer. Determining when it’s time to sharpen is easy enough. The easiest way to do this is by listening to your sensations when cutting: a properly sharpened and sharp chain will be pulled into the notch even with a slight pressure, and if you have to make an effort, the teeth are dull. You can also understand that the chain is sharpened, you can by chip size, inflying out of the cut. Long thick shavings can only be with a sharp chain, and small ones indicate that it is urgently time to sharpen the chain.
Chainsaw operation with a dull or defective chain is highly discouraged. This can result in fatigue in the arms and body and poor cutting results. It also entails a strong decrease in productivity, increased wear of all parts of the chainsaw and higher fuel consumption.
Angles and parameters of links
Correct sharpening of a chainsaw chain is impossible without knowledge of the link parts and the angles at which they should be sharpened.
The main parts of the cutting link:
- Tooth scapula
- Depth gauge
- End blade
- Upper blade
Upper blade angle, rake angle and sharpening angle can be changed during sharpening. These angles greatly affect the cutting performance of the chain. It is advisable to observe the recommended values of these angles.
Each cutting link has a depth stop in front of the tooth blade. The difference in height between the leading edge of the back of a tooth and the highest point of the depth gauge is called the depth gauge distance. This distance determines the depth to which the upper blade will cut into the wood and, as a result, productivity. This distance is set depending on the type of execution and the chain pitch. Its average value is 0.6 mm and can vary in both directions by 0.2 mm. Higher values of this parameter will result in a greater tendency to kickback, too much grip and vibration of the chainsaw. And its low values will lead to loss of performance.
With each subsequent sharpening of the chainsaw, due to a decrease in the upper edge of the tooth, the height of the cut chips decreases, therefore, every 5-10 sharpenings the depth gauge needs to be sawed.
Main corners of chain links:
- The depth to which the top blade cuts into the wood is controlled by its clearance angle. It is formed from the back of the tooth falling back at an angle.
- The back angle of the end blade is formed from a backward tapering tooth blade. Its purpose is lateral cutting of chips.
- The rake angle is formed from the edge of the end blade relative to the sliding surface of the cutting link. For different chains, this angle can vary from 60 to 85 degrees.
- The clearance angle determines the amount of backward tilt of the upper blade and is measured from the sliding surface of the cutting link. And different circuits can have values from 50 to 60 degrees. The main blade of any chain link is the top, and the rear corner of the top blade is the most important angle. This angle is quite difficult to measure, but if other prescribed values are observed, it forms correctly.
- The sharpening angle or entering angle is the angle from the perpendicular to the guide bar to the upper cutting edge. It can be changed depending on the type of wood you are going to cut. A larger sharpening angle increases the cutting performance of soft non-frozen wood, while a smaller value allows cutting hard and frozen wood more smoothly and with less vibration. However, sharpening angles less than 25 degrees and more than 35 degrees are not recommended. As an exception, chains are produced for longitudinal cutting, the given angle of which is 10 degrees.
Chainsaw chain sharpeners
The most common chain sharpening set includes a round file on a special holder, a flat file to reduce the depth gauge, a template for the last operation and a hook for cleaning the chainsaw from sawdust.
The mowing lines on the round file holder enable the correct positioning of the tool in relation to the chain. According to line orientation the holder is placed on the tooth to be sharpened. It lies on the top edge and the depth gauge and the file is under the cutting edge.
The holder allows the file to fit to the tooth at the correct height. There are different tool holders for different chain pitches. Selecting the correct holder and the correct file diameter will allow the file to protrude 1 / 5th of its diameter above the tooth back. We strongly recommend that you use only special files for sharpening chainsaw chains.
Before starting sharpening, it is advisable to fix the tire. When working, it is necessary to make 2–3 turning movements away from you, while firmly pressing the file to the edge of the tooth and not changing the position of the holder. Do not press down on the file too hard, move it smoothly and measuredly. The file must be rotated regularly to avoid clogging and one-sided wear. With this operation, all other teeth are also sharpened. For more convenience, first sharpen all the teeth in one direction, and then the teeth in the other direction.
When sharpening teeth, try to keep the pressure and amount of motion the same for each tooth. This will ensure that the teeth have the same length. Otherwise, the chain will run unevenly and may crack. Tooth size differences can be eliminated by filing all teeth to the shortest length.
After 5-10 sharpening of teeth, you need to grind depth gauge. For this, a template is used. It is placed so that the stopper protrudes from the slot, and this protruding tip is grinded with a flat file.
The design of the other set is different, but the principle of its operation is not much different from that described above. It uses all the same round and flat files, and a universal special template allows you to properly sharpen the cutting tooth and the depth stop. When sharpening a cutting tooth, the chain must fit into its slots. The file is placed on the template and guided under the cutting edge using the guide rollers. The file should move along the side edges of the template.
Before you grind the height stop, think about what kind of wood you will be cutting in the near future. For soft wood, the stopper is inserted into the slot labeled “Soft”, and for hard woods, it is inserted into the slot labeled “Hard”. Sewing the height limiter, as with the first device, should be done with several smooth movements of a flat file.
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home
At first glance, sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands is a rather difficult and long task, but with special sharpening devices, this process will not be more difficult than sharpening other cutting tools. In this article, we will tell you about how to sharpen a chainsaw chain.
Chainsaw chain sharpening with a drill
In order to sharpen the chain yourself with a drill or screwdriver, you will need a round file. To select it, it is necessary to clarify the value of the rounding diameter of the cutting tooth of the chain. Most household chain saws can be sharpened with a 4.8 mm file.
In addition to the sharpening tool, you will need any bearing that will be convenient to hold with your fingers on the outer race.
- First remove the file shank of the angle grinder.
- Insert the file into the chuck and secure.
- From plastic, cork or a small piece of wood, make a sleeve of such a diameter that it fits snugly into the bearing.
- Fix the free end of the file in the resulting sleeve inserted into the bearing.
Sharpening the chain with the resulting device is as follows. First you need to fix the saw, it is best to clamp the tire with a vise, after loosening the chain for its free movement. Before starting sharpening, it is advisable to mark the first tooth with a marker. Now you need to place the file in the curvature of the cutting element blade, focusing on the required sharpening angle, which is usually marked with a line on the outside of the teeth. Further, holding the homemade device with two hands (one for the handle of a drill or screwdriver, and the other for the outer bearing race), turn on the power tool and, holding the file to the edge of the tooth, sharpen. Sharpen each cutting link in the same way, gradually moving the chain along the saw bar.
details about this method of sharpening a chainsaw chain can be found by looking. Or photo instructions of various craftsmen on the Internet.
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home correctly: with a round file, an angle grinder, an angle grinder, with a drill, on a machine, PowerSharp
The saw chain is a metal base with series-connected links that have teeth characterized by cutting properties. You can improve them if you sharpen the chainsaw chain at home, but you must follow the rules and use a tool specially designed for this. The latter can be homemade or factory made.
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain angle grinder angle grinder
When sharpening a chainsaw chain, an angle grinder must constantly monitor the level of chain sharpness, treat the drive sprocket with machine oil. over, this method has one significant advantage. There is no need to remove the chain set from the saw, you can visually select the sharpening angle.
Although many owners of chainsaws and chainsaws believe that this tool can damage the cutting teeth of the chain, if the work is done by an experienced specialist, then the risk is minimal.
Only a special disc is suitable for working with metal. Its diameter must be at least 2.5 mm. It is recommended to select an already used disc with rounded edges.
Before you start sharpening, you need to insert a wedge of wood between the chain and the bottom of the bar to prevent the headset from moving.
Sharpening angles and configuration of the chainsaw tooth
Chainsaw chain teeth have the following characteristics:
- The sharpening angle for rip sawing should be within 6-12 °, and from 25 ° to 30 °. With a predominance of cross-cut.
- Chain profile height: professional models have a high profile of 0.762 mm, and household saws have a 0.625 mm.
- The shape of the chain teeth can be rounded, semi-chisel, chisel and with carbide plates.
- The thickness of the drive links. This parameter is the same for most household chainsaws, and has a value of 1.27 mm. There are edges that are 1.1 mm thick on low-power saws that are only suitable for limbing. Thicker shanks (1.5 mm, 1.6 mm, 2 mm) are typical for semi-professional and professional saws.
- Tooth pitch is the distance between the connecting elements of the chain. Has a value that depends on the power and torque of the tool motor. The higher these parameters, the larger the pitch: 1/4 ″ (6.35 mm), 0.325 ″ (8.25 mm), 3/8 ″ (9.53 mm), 0.404 “(10.26 mm), 3/4” (19.05 mm).
Sharpening the chainsaw on the machine
The machine for sharpening chainsaw chains with its own hands copes with the task without any problems. There are various options for using such a tool. Automatic sharpening or manually. In addition, you can make a homemade chain sharpener.
Chainsaw chain sharpening template
In order to properly sharpen the chain at home, it is recommended to use a special template to set the desired sharpening angle of the teeth. It allows you to control the degree of the leading edge (65-80 °), as well as the rear angles of the top (50-60 °) and end cutting edge.
To find out the sharpening angle from the template, you need to look at the value between the upper end of the tooth and the line perpendicular to the chain guide of the chainsaw. As mentioned earlier, this angle should be within 6-12 ° for rip sawing, and 25-30 ° for transverse. The harder and denser the wood, the less the sharpening angle should be maintained. When working with especially dense wood, sharpen the chain as often and carefully as possible, because the critically small angle of inclination of the tooth contributes to the rapid wear of the chain (especially if it is made of a steel alloy containing manganese or silicon).
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain. Instructions for action
Do you want to use sawing equipment for a long time? Then take care of its timely prevention. It is necessary to sharpen the tool as needed.
How to sharpen a chainsaw chain correctly. We will tell you the tool yourself!
A chainsaw without a normal chain belt is like a machine without a motor. This proven postulate will be confirmed by any tech-savvy person. The chain should always be well sharpened if you want to always use your chainsaw. Otherwise, she will not forgive you for miscalculations. This means that you will not see accuracy, efficiency and safety of work.
Any professional will confirm that the final result of such a laborious activity as working with a chainsaw will depend on sharpening the teeth of your tool, even more than on the motor itself. Experienced lumberjacks give the following good advice. Sharpening is necessary as the sharpening sharpness deteriorates. If you have to put in a lot more effort than before, the saw starts sawing as it pleases and changes the angle, slowing down your work, in which case you have no choice. Start sharpening.
Pay attention to the sharpness of the chain and escaping chips. If everything is in order with sharpness and sharpening, then the chips will be almost uniform, and the sawdust obtained at the output will be square in shape. If there is a need for sharpening, then this will be seen by the dust in the shavings and sawdust in the form of needles.
File and chainsaw. A successful tandem!
Remember to pay attention to every link in the chain. The rule should also be taken into account that the efficiency of the saw is determined by the difference in heights: we are talking about the distance between the cutting teeth and the limiter itself. Differences in height parameters allow the teeth to cut into the tree (usually a stop tooth in its characteristics should be about 0.7 mm below the cutting tooth).
The chain sharpening process is more difficult than sawing!
Don’t think that everything will turn out so easy the first time. But if you get the hang of it, you will achieve success. The cutting teeth must be sharpened first. For this, a special template is imposed. When sharpening along it, the arrows will indicate the direction of movement. Do not use physical force in such cases, but try to carry out uniform pressing at an angle directly to the saw bar with smooth and precise movements.
Experts remind that the angle of the slope itself in practice can be different and depends on the pitch of the chain. The main thing in such a jewelry and laborious work is not to rush and, as an option, remember how many movements you made. This practice of counting will allow you not to overdo it in one place and remember to perform the same amount of load in another.
Sharpened cutting teeth, it’s too early to rejoice. Grinding of the stop tooth is ahead. A template is also used here (it is better to use a flat file here). As practice shows, if you sharpen without a template, then you can accidentally go beyond the mark, and then your chainsaw will “bite” into the tree and increase vibration when working with the material, which means you can simply forget about such an important characteristic as accuracy.
Things to consider:
If you are already ready to start sharpening, then it is better to do it right away, without postponing until later. And remember: the frequency of sharpening can vary significantly depending on the bark of the trees. If the bark from the logs is ripped off, then you can not sharpen the chain so often and, accordingly, cut longer. And don’t be afraid to use a chainsaw. If your trees and branches are small, you can always use different types of tree pruning tools. So good luck!
Chainsaw teeth have a specific geometry. You need to understand and know what part of them should be sharpened. In general, the “logic” of cutting wood resembles a plane.
The cutting surface has two edges. One side, the other slightly beveled. The cutting depth limiter adjusts the thickness of the chips. Let’s take a closer look. The elements of the cutting-working link are arranged as follows:
- Base with axle holes;
- Tooth scapula;
- Cutting depth limiter;
- End face of the blade (placement. Vertically);
- Top edge of the blade (placement. Horizontal);
Sharpened edge Dull After touching the ground
Do not over-grind or change the location of the links. The normal operation of the instrument depends on the identity of their location. Otherwise, increased stress on the chassis, tire and engine is likely. The cut can be crooked. There is also a small chance of breaking the circuit.
Possible ways and methods of sharpening the chain
Sharpening angle grinder
Professionals consider this work to be primitive. There is a risk of tire damage, and not only.
Process (seemingly easy, but really difficult)
- The chain also stays on the bus;
- We attach a metal cutting disc with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm to an angle grinder. It is advisable to take not new, that is, with a worn edge;
- We put a barrier in front of the chain and the tire (the chip will come off);
- We carry out sharpening at the desired angle;
- Upon completion of work, the chain must be tightened properly.
With a professional approach and a “full hand”, the number of sharpenings in this case can be more than 7.
“For a beginner, it is better not to“ experiment ”with a saw, a chain, etc. With your body parts! “
Advantages of the method: Fast, cheap and does not take away energy;
Disadvantages: You need special skills, a steady hand and the ability to comply with safety techniques.
The design of such a machine is similar to a bow saw. Only where the saw blade is located is the round file. With such a machine, you can sharpen and straighten the teeth, adjusting the proportionality of the upper edges to the smallest (control) size. The mechanism allows you to accurately set the parameters. After adjusting the “control” tooth, sharpening is carried out in two or three movements. And then the transition. To the next tooth.
When it is necessary to grind off the stopper, we change the round file to a flat file.
Advantages of the method: Allows you to sharpen teeth, including those that have lost their original shape, with high quality, convenient and without large physical costs.
Disadvantages: The price of the tool and the distance from the possible site of the saw operation.
What to choose for sharpening is up to you. This is due to how often you use your chainsaw. From the accuracy of handling it. From the quality of the purchased chain. And, of course, from the opportunity to spend a certain amount. The methods cannot be compared, because as the German proverb says. “apples should be compared with apples”.
We sharpen the chainsaw chain with our own hands. All possible and available ways
“The lumberjack working with a blunt ax was advised:. Sharpen the ax.
He replied:. There is no time. The forest must be cut down. “
Greetings to all readers!
Today I decided to tell you about the tool, without which, it seems to me, today it is simply impossible. A good tool should work well, and this largely depends on its owner.
Cleaning the autumn garden, preparing firewood for winter, building a bathhouse, repairing a wooden fence will require not only time and desire, but also the readiness of the “cutting” tool. If it is a chainsaw, then it must be properly sharpened.
Of course, there are paid specialists, and you, for example, have extra money. But we know that such a procedure is performed periodically and therefore a natural question arises: how to sharpen a chainsaw chain at home? I’ll tell you about that. Go!
In this article, you will learn:
We work with a file
The best solution is simple gadgets for sharpening work. This set includes a round and flat file, special holders, a gauge, a hook for removing chips, etc. Structurally, the “adaptations” may differ, but the functionality has a common logic.
The diameter of the round file is directly related to the chain size:
- – Chains with ø 1.3. Require a file of ø 4 mm (used much more often);
- – Chains with ø 1.6. Require a file ø 5.2 mm;
- – To sharpen the depth gauge, use a flat file.
- Having previously “turned on” the chain brake, firmly grip the tire of the chainsaw in a vice (a firmly clamped saw is the key to successful sharpening)
- Position the template so that the arrow points towards the nose of the tire. Be sure to mark (with chalk) the tooth from which you started sharpening, otherwise you can go along the second circle;
- Sharpen in the direction of the arrows. Remember, there is a special factory cut on each tooth in the chain. It indicates the maximum sharpening angle.
- In addition to the cutting tooth, there are stops on each link. Their sharpening is carried out as needed. This is necessary when, as a result of sharpening, the height of the tooth decreases, and problems arise in the operation of the chainsaw. As a rule, the limiter is sharpened after 2-3 sharpening of the teeth;
“If you don’t have the skills to sharpen, it’s better to start with inexpensive chains.”.
- The file should not go beyond the upper part of the cutting edge by more than 1/5 of the working part of the file. The pressure is carried out with the same effort;
- The movement of the grinding tool is performed in one direction “away from you”, and the number of movements for each tooth should be equal;
- To sharpen a vertical plane, the position of the file must be at right angles;
- For sharpening a horizontal plane, file position, at an angle of 20-30 °
- If there are teeth of different heights, the reference is the smallest.
Advantages: The ability to “charge the saw” in the field. At the same time it’s cheap.