The brushcutter stalled and won’t start
There is no spark on the Stihl 180 chainsaw
The main malfunction due to which the stihl ms 180 chainsaw does not start may be the absence of a spark between the electrodes on the spark plug. Signs of this malfunction can be detected by unscrewing the spark plug and inspecting it. Having discovered during inspection that the spark plug is wet, it is necessary to start looking for the reason for the absence of a spark on the spark plug.
Defective crankshaft bearings
With a defect in the crankshaft bearings, a slight backlash is observed on it. You can check for backlash by shaking the flywheel of the Stihl 180 chainsaw from side to side. If there is a backlash, it means that under the action of its magnets, the flywheel is attracted to the contacts of the ignition coil, since the backlash on the bearings allows it to do this and as a result the spark disappears.
The chainsaw is calm and will not start
What to do if the chainsaw won’t start further?
If the initial inspection did not give anything or the defects were eliminated during the search, and the chainsaw does not start further, then you need to look for more serious reasons. It is best to identify and eliminate such breakdowns in a service center. However, with experience, you can find and eliminate them yourself. What to diagnose and check?
- Compression in the cylinder;
- Compression in the crankcase;
- Carburetor operation.
In the first case, checking the compression in the cylinder will allow you to find out the state of the cylinder-piston group (CPG) of a chainsaw that does not want to start cold. For this you need a compressometer. The device is screwed into place of the spark plug and the engine is idle. Measurement of readings allows you to judge the state of the CPG. In the absence of a compression gauge, the compression in the cylinder can be determined offhand as follows:
- Place your finger on the candle hole;
- Try to start the chainsaw engine.
By placing your finger on the spark plug hole and pulling the starter, you can check the compression in the cylinder.
If you feel that your finger is pulling strongly into the candle channel, then everything is in order with the compression. The absence of a vacuum in the chamber indicates a malfunction. The cylinder-piston group needs a more detailed inspection, which will give an idea of the condition of the piston and cylinder, piston rings and bearings.
The chainsaw may not start on a cold one due to the lack of compression in the engine crankcase. The main reason for this is damage to the gasket placed between the cylinder and the crankcase. It is quite easy to detect the lack of compression:
- Disconnect the upper tube from the carburetor;
- Pour gasoline into an ordinary cork;
- We immerse the removed tube in the fuel;
- We pull the starter several times.
If the fuel is sucked from the cap when starting the chainsaw starter, then everything is in order with the compression. If not, see the gasket.
If the fuel is drawn in, then everything is in order. the gasket is intact. Otherwise, you will have to purchase a repair kit and replace it. How to do this watch the video why the Chinese chainsaw does not start:
Starting the tool can be complicated by improper operation of the carburetor or its breakage. It often happens that during the sawing process, the fastening screws are loosened and air is sucked into the cylinder. Check that the carburetor is securely fastened. Inspect it for fuel leaks. There can be a lot of reasons for the malfunction. It is possible to pinpoint the malfunction, eliminate it and fine-tune the carburetor only in a service center.
After going through the step-by-step troubleshooting of the chainsaw engine, you can find the malfunction, fix it yourself and successfully start your working tool. Do not take on jobs that you are not sure about. Entrust the troubleshooting to specialists from the service center.
Shtil chainsaw won’t start: reasons and solutions
First of all, it is worth noting the fact that the chainsaw 180 of this manufacturer is one of his best “creations”, but it also has its drawbacks. Actually, which we will talk about now.
- A fairly common problem is that the Stihl 180 chainsaw does not start and fills in the candle. The reason for this is that the oil used to lubricate the chain starts to leak. Since time is merciless and simply breaks the tightness exactly in the place where the hose from the oil pump and the oil tank is actually connected. Naturally, this problem can be solved, but, given the design of this chainsaw, it will not be so easy to do this, since you simply have to completely disassemble the device in order, as they say, to get to the right place. The video shows more clearly: https: //www.youtube.com/watch? V = UOsYJBOVuwg
- Many are worried about this question: why does the Stihl 180 chainsaw not start? If you believe the experts, then in such a situation you first need to open and then close the lid on the gas tank. Or get out and dry the candle. Or try to ventilate the combustion chamber. In most cases, this kind of manipulation is enough for the device to work. But there are times when the Stihl chainsaw does not start, but there is a spark.
- In the above case, you need to make a direct check of the gasoline supply, the air filter and the direct performance of the spark plug. Since the basis of this kind of breakdown is the breather, namely its contamination. Because when it is completely clogged, a kind of vacuum arises in the gas tank itself, which simply interferes with the fuel supply process. This issue is not difficult to solve, since all you need to do is clean it using a needle.
- There are also situations when the device, in principle, started up, but immediately died out.
The main reasons for this kind of malfunction are the carburetor and filter, which could simply be clogged.
In order to exclude the saloon from damaged objects, it is necessary first of all to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor itself and actually check if fuel is leaking from it.
- Connecting pipes or the connections themselves in the area of the oil pump fittings can also leak.
- It happens that the Stihl 180 chainsaw does not start well because of the cylinder, which may be broken. But to determine its condition, a visual inspection is enough. But if even there you find the formation of irregularities and chips, then you can be sure that you have found the cause of the breakdown.
- If, by checking, you find that the malfunction is in the candle, then you simply need to unscrew it, and then dry it directly. But it is worth noting that in no case should you pierce it, since you will simply ruin the part, and it will be unusable. You also need to drain excess fuel from it through a special hole.
In addition, you must remember that direct drying should be carried out for at least thirty minutes, and only after this kind of manipulation can you install it back and actually try to launch the tool directly.
over, it may be that the expiration date of your candle has simply passed, in which case it is necessary to replace it. Therefore, it is a great advice that it is best to always have a new candle in stock or, best of all, a set. Then you can replace it at any time and actually understand whether it was the direct cause of the device breakdown. over, a weak contact can also be the cause of a breakdown, which actually connects the high-voltage wire and the end of the candle. Also, the cause may be a breakdown of the ignition unit. It is worth noting the fact that in order to eliminate this kind of problem, it is necessary to replace the unit itself, since it cannot be repaired.
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But it is worth noting that it will be best if specialists will repair it, since if you have the necessary knowledge and skills, then you can simply break it down and have to buy a new one.
Algorithm for “purging” the engine
Important: under no circumstances carry out a “purge” of the engine with the ignition on and near an open flame.
- Unscrew the candle;
- Turn the Stihl 180 chainsaw upside down and drain off excess fuel;
- In the inverted state, pull the chainsaw starter several times (this way, under the influence of compression, excess fuel will be removed from the cylinder);
- Install the plug and the cap of the high-voltage wire in place;
- Set the engine control lever to the hot start position;
- Pull the starter motor several times and start the engine.
If everything is in order with the Stihl chainsaw and the cold start algorithm was simply violated, then after the “purge” it should start. Otherwise, the fault must be looked for in the carburetor.
Finding reasons why the chainsaw won’t start
Amateur and professional chainsaws are complex devices. The service life of their two-stroke engines, components and assemblies has its own limitations. For this reason, quite reliable and expensive tools, along with cheap Chinese units, periodically fail and refuse to start. The situation when the chainsaw does not start or stalls is not very pleasant and sometimes confuses the user. How to identify and correct a malfunction by returning the instrument to work.
Identifying and eliminating obvious chainsaw malfunctions.
To determine the reason why the chainsaw does not start or stalls when starting, it is necessary to troubleshoot the tool. The essence of the procedure is to consistently inspect the condition and operation of the main working elements of the saw motor. At this stage, we check:
- Spark plug present;
- Fuel supply;
- Filter status;
- The operation of the breather of the stalling unit built into the fuel cap;
- Discharge duct function.
The main reasons for this situation are contained in the following motor units:
- the fuel supply or its ignition is stopped;
- out of adjustment of the gas distribution mechanism;
- there was a breakdown of the internal parts of the power unit.
To identify a broken part, it is worth analyzing the behavior of the vehicle before the breakdown occurred.
Thanks to modern electronics, an alarm signal is displayed on the dashboard before a final breakdown, which informs the driver about possible problems. At the first signal, it is worthwhile to immediately carry out diagnostics and eliminate the malfunction at the initial stage.
If this is not done, then it remains to wait for future problems, in which the engine suddenly stalled while driving, after which it will not start in any way.
The car stalled on the move and will not start
All cars are very demanding for timely maintenance. Many drivers simply ignore this, later being surprised that the car broke down. Many malfunctions in the operation of the engine occur right on the move, which create very big problems for their owner. One of the most serious problems is that while driving, the car stalled, after which it does not start in any way. Why this happened, and this article will help you figure it out.
Fuel system and ignition
It is worth starting the search with an inspection of the fuel system. Its poor quality work creates an unpleasant situation in which the car stalled on the move. It is customary to carry out visual diagnostics in stages, and you should start in this way:
- Check for the presence of gasoline in the tank, no matter how trite it may sound. Very often, the sensor located on the dashboard shows incorrectly due to its own malfunction. Gasoline ran out, and so the car stalled.
- The fuel pump can fail and stop pumping the fuel mixture into the engine. It emits the characteristic buzzing sound of an electric motor, so you can check it by ear by simply turning on the ignition. To be convincing, it will be better to connect a pressure gauge to it, which will show the pressure created by the pump, it should be about 2.7 atmospheres.
- A heavily clogged filter can also prevent fuel from entering the engine. A filter element is located inside its housing, which is clogged with particles of debris contained in gasoline. To check it, it is enough to remove the hose coming from the element and turn the starter, while a stream of gasoline should pour out of it. If it is not, then it is clogged and needs to be replaced, so the car will not start.
- Fuel injectors also tend to clog due to poor quality gasoline or diesel fuel. You can independently check their work by removing the ramp. Moving away from the car, turn the starter. A combustible mixture should be sprayed from their nozzles. The opposite is the case when there is no spraying. This means they are out of order, so the car will not start.
- The system of formation of a spark to ignite the fuel, or rather its absence, can cause the engine to stall. The most vulnerable elements of the ignition system are spark plugs and high voltage wires. They are responsible for the quality and the presence of a spark in the combustion chamber. The candles must have the necessary gap between the electrodes and be free of any plaque on the working surface. The absence of these conditions prevents the formation of a spark, without which the power unit stops working. On high-voltage wires, insulation wears out, through which electric charges begin to break through to the motor crankcase. To check the formation of a spark, the candles must be unscrewed and, putting on the valve cover, rotate the crankshaft with the starter. The spark should be clearly visible on the electrodes of the candles, if this is not the case, then they need to be changed.
- The ignition system is significantly influenced by the electronic control unit (ECU) of the power unit, which interacts with various sensors. Failure of some sensors will prevent the engine from starting. The main influence on the ECU is provided by the crankshaft speed sensor and camshaft position sensors. Without receiving a signal from any of them, the ECU will not allow a spark to form on the candles, so the car will not start. Here it is worth checking the connectors of the contacts of these sensors, they can fly off while driving, as a result of which the engine stalled right on the go. It is difficult to independently check their serviceability, for this you need to use a tester and measure the readings of the sensors. In this case, the right decision would be to contact a specialized car repair service, where they will very quickly identify the breakdown and fix it.
Gas distribution mechanism (timing) and breakdown of internal parts of the power unit
Each of the shafts must have a certain position during the operation of the motor, but it also happens that a large development of a belt, chain or gears with asterisks leads to the fact that any shaft begins to either advance or be late in fulfilling its functionality.
This is called improper ignition timing.
It often happens that an overly stretched timing belt jumps on the crankshaft gear while driving, causing the car to stall. And you won’t be able to start it until the breakdown is eliminated.
It is possible to determine the state of the timing and the correctness of the installation of the shafts using the marks applied to them; for this, manually scroll the crankshaft, aligning the marks on its pulley and the front cover of the engine. The same marks are located on the camshafts, they must match.
Their coincidence means that the timing angles are correctly installed, if not, then the malfunction lies in this. It will not be possible to repair the breakdown on your own without the necessary skills and tools, in which case you will have to contact a car repair service.
Untimely replacement of the timing belt can lead to its breakage, as a result of which the power unit will jam, so the car stalled.
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This is one of the most severe consequences for the motor. In this case, you will have to overhaul the power unit. Jamming means the so-called “valve-piston meeting”, in which the crankshaft cannot rotate. The wedge is determined by manually turning the crankshaft, if there is no rotation, then the power unit is jammed.
The reasons why the car stalled in motion can appear as a result of damage to the internal parts of the motor, namely:
- bent connecting rod of the piston group;
- cranking the main or connecting rod bearing of the crankshaft;
- jammed timing belt tensioner roller;
- seized cooling pump.
Such a breakdown is quite possible due to a faulty generator. The rechargeable battery can have a negative impact due to a malfunction or a loose terminal.
All these breakdowns are possible due to inappropriate attitude to your car. If you follow the operating rules and carry out the necessary technical work according to the regulations, the machine will never fail.
The car does not start because of the start blocker
On some cars, incl. and KIA, engine start blockers are installed, which under certain conditions may not work correctly and cause trouble to the car owner. This note is intended to prevent such cases.
Turn on the ignition, then the “starter” mode, and. no effect. The indicator lamps on the panel light up (do not go out), the click of the traction relay under the hood is not audible (the starter gear does not mesh with the rim of the flywheel teeth), the click of the starter control relay is heard under the dashboard, the battery is well charged.
At first glance, the most logical thing, given that the machine worked flawlessly five minutes ago and did not previously suffer from such symptoms, is to assume a malfunction of the electrical wiring, the starter itself, the traction relay in its composition, or the stator winding. It would be necessary to see if the battery voltage (12 V) with respect to the mass of the machine comes to contact S of the traction relay when the ignition key is in the “Start” position. But I don’t want to go under the car to make sure that one of these versions is correct. Let’s not forget that there are no fuses in the “ignition key. starter relay. starter” electrical circuit.
First of all, you need to remember about all the secrets installed in the car; in addition to factory ones, they are also installed in artisanal conditions, often the owner himself likes to do this.
For example, on many cars similar to mine, a disguised secret (electronic sensor device) is installed between the ignition switch and the steering column, the meaning of which is to turn off the engine for 5 seconds (the time can be adjusted) after starting, if a person’s finger is not attached to the masked contact when starting the engine within 1–3 s. I disassembled the device and can acquaint readers with its diagram, anyone can assemble it, even a novice radio amateur. However, this additional blocking device engages (shuts down the engine) after the engine is started. In the case under consideration, it has not yet reached him. But now it will be useful to remember another secret that many cars are equipped with (foreign cars and our brands). This is an electrical switch located under the clutch pedal (see fig. 3.1).
The contacts of this device are included in the open circuit of the starter’s power supply, therefore, if these contacts are not closed, the starter relay under the dashboard “clicks” (triggered), and no current flows to the starter (and the traction relay), therefore, even a click under the hood is not audible.
In addition to the secret function (which in this case is rather secondary), this switch “saves” (preserves a long service life) the clutch elements in the vehicle’s gearbox and makes it easier to start a “cold” engine. when the clutch is depressed, starting is easier.
Of course, the zealous owner of his “swallow” knows that when starting the engine in starter mode, it is necessary to depress the clutch pedal to the end, and immediately after starting it can be released, and he does so. But in winter conditions, especially in severe frost and especially during short trips from the landing site to the destination, when the cabin does not have time to warm up properly, nature itself gives us. people. a new test.
In this case, the mat slightly displaced, frozen and deformed from frost (under the feet), as well as a small amount of previously brought in and frozen snow (turned into ice) were sufficient for the pressed clutch pedal to close the contacts of the secret switch. Therefore, the car perceived start-up attempts as if the clutch had not been squeezed out. Displacement of the rug and cleaning it from ice allowed to correct the situation.
Features of cars with automatic transmission
In cars with automatic transmission, an additional start-inhibit switch is provided on the gearbox. It is triggered in the event of a malfunction in the automatic transmission, when one of the speed modes is turned on on the immobilized car, and in a number of other cases. A similar method can be used to “cure” all other cars that have a special security (start-inhibit switch combined with the clutch pedal).
Clogged fuel filter
The machine responds less well to the accelerator pedal, acceleration decreases and overall performance decreases. With a critical decrease in cross-country ability, the engine will stall.
The next important parameter is directly responsible for the ignition of the mixture. The correct moment of spark formation is established by calibrating the distributor or ECM. If the device malfunctions, the entire system does not work correctly and critical interruptions occur in the operation of the engine, which can cause its sudden failure.
The car suddenly stalls at speed
If the car refuses at full speed, you should check:
- fuel and air lines;
- directly fuel, the incident may have occurred immediately after refueling;
- on-board computer errors;
- the strength of the connection of the wiring terminals and the integrity of the power cables;
- battery charging and generator performance.
Idle speed regulator
An incorrectly set position of the jet in the carburetor or the valve on the injector can provoke a failure of the unit at low speeds. Also, problems can arise during gear changes when the load on the motor is removed. Often it is enough to flush the system and clean the valves to fix it.
Such troubles often happen with old equipment, where the factory wiring has worn out or has been repaired several times. To fix the problem, you need to check all the wires responsible for the operation of the power plant.
Car stalled in water and won’t start
Situations when a car, having driven through a puddle, stalls, although not very often, but occur. This is due to splashing water on the ignition wires and sensors. The problem is solved by simple ventilation so that the moisture evaporates. To speed up the moment in hot weather, you can additionally wipe the devices with a dry cloth. To avoid a repetition of the situation, it is better to use protective equipment.
From personal practice, drivers are well aware that when overcoming deep puddles, the crankshaft sensor often suffers, due to its low location. It is enough to wipe it down and after a few minutes the machine will be operational again. There are more serious problems.
Some car owners have to deal with a water hammer of the engine. water gets into the engine. When this happens, the propulsion system emits a pop-like sound before extinguishing. It is better to entrust the elimination of the problem to specialists.
The second reason is the ignition system
This is a problematic item in a car. When there is no spark, the engine will not be able to work. And it is not more often due to breakdowns of the wire or spark plugs, due to which the spark occurs, and its strength is sufficient to initiate the operation of the power plant. Visually, on properly working candles there is no plaque on the working surface and the gap between the electrodes is sufficient. Plaque or lack of clearance directly prevents spark formation.
Defective wires often have damaged insulation, and therefore current charges break through from them to the crankcase. Check the formation of a spark by first unscrewing the candles and placing them on the valve cover. Having done this, the starter is scrolled sharply and a distinct spark is expected to appear on the spark plug electrode. In the case of its complete absence, replacement of the latter is required.
Possible consequences of ECU flashing
Using low-quality and untested software for the chip, it is possible to fill the onboard with unsupported fuel supply schemes, turbine pressurization, etc. The computer and the car will be buggy. Carefully monitor and check the quality of the software used.