What kind of ribbon -saw ribbon in the summer. Operating instructions for tape saws
Correct divorce and sharpening of a strip saw. half of success!
The divorce process is considered an operation associated with bending the saws of the saw in different directions in order to reduce the friction of the saw tape on the side surfaces of the cut and eliminate its clamping. For the free movement of the canvas in the wood, it is necessary to provide the width of the cut, which exceeds the thickness of the canvas, by at least 30-60%. The wiring is divided into several types, and they have no established names, since the manufacturers of the saw call them differently.
Standard wiring characterizes alternate bending of teeth different sides.
When cleaning wiring, the teeth of the saw canvas are divided, two of which are bent in different directions, and the third remains in place.
It is mainly used when working with solid wood species. The trapezoidal shape of each third tooth remaining in the center of the saw sets the direction of the entire saw tape.
The most difficult to execute is wavy wiring, since each subsequent tooth in the half.wave is bent to an increasing value.
With any type of wiring, the tooth is bent not from the base, but with the indentation from it by 33-67% of the height of the tooth. Despite the fact that each manufacturer dictates its requirements for indicators related to divorce, all of them do not go beyond 0.3-0.7 mm.
It is generally accepted to cut trees with soft wood with tape saws that have a large divorce, and with solid. small. But in any case, the divorce should be such that the sawing occurs without the formation of a cut wedge in the center.
All teeth during a divorce should bend into the same value with the permitted error up to 0.1 mm. If the wiring is unequal, then the saw will be pulled in the direction of the larger divorce.
Installation and adjustment of guide rollers
Before installing and adjusting the guide rollers, it is necessary to check how worn out the details of the roller.
First, whether there is a video beating, it is enough to chat a video to determine it. In the case of even the slightest beat, bearings or shaft are replaced, and there may also be wear of the inside of the video.
Secondly, the surface of the video should be even as in width, usually during operation it wears out under the cone, which greatly affects the quality of the material. And in diameter, the video should not be ellip.
After assembling the guide roller and checking it, we start installing it on the machine. We insert the shaft into the video holder and fix it with a special bolt, if the holders are on hairpins, and an eccentric is fixed with several bolts.
For further adjustment, put the saw tape and produce a weak stretch so that the tape presses to the rollers. We loosen the bolts fixing the roller shaft and move the video so that the distance from the front of the video to the base of the tape tooth is 3-5 millimeters, and again fix the roller shaft.
Then we set the level that should be at least 120 cm, on the lower part of the frame and measure from the leading wheels to the level, and then from the guide rollers to the level. The rollers should be 3-5 mm below the drive wheels.
With the help of studs, set this distance by unscrewing or pulling up with nuts. On eccentrics, weaken the fixing bolts and set the required size by turning the shaft and fix the roller shaft again.
Next, we make a full stretch of the saw tape according to the instructions, the tension of the tape should be minimal, but sufficient for work. We take a small level and put it across the ribbons between the rollers, while paying attention to the protruding teeth of the tape, the level should not stand on them, and also with hairpins or bolts, align the tape to an even state, moving the level from one video to another.
After all these manipulations, roll the sawmill to the first stubborn rack and set the size. This will be easier to do if the size, for example, is 10 cm first between the tape and the guide stand, while it is unforgettable, what needs to be measured from the teeth protruding down, and then just unscrew the line fasteners on the frame and set the size on the line.
We check all our adjustments, making control measurements, as well as the reliability of the fixation of the rollers, and produce a control cut, if the cut showed the quality and accuracy of the size of the material, then all the adjustment of the guide rollers was correctly made. In the future, it only remains to support these adjustments, timely eliminating the malfunctions of the details of the roller.
Advantages of the strip saw
First of all, the most significant plus. the width drank the tool. Indeed, it is difficult not to notice that it is much smaller than that of disc tools. And if this moment is a trifle for sawing budget wood, then for cutting valuable wood and elite material, it is better to use, for a clear reason, tape saws.
And then, in addition to this tape saw, cutting any blanks is possible. In addition, the tool has a decent speed of operation and high quality cut surface.
But, of course, to feel all these advantages, it is necessary to responsibly approach the sharpening and wiring of a strip saw.
Material for the manufacture of tape saws
The strip saw for wood is made of instrumental steel with a hardness of 45 HRC, and for metal it is the basis of steel B2F, 9XF, C75, UDDEHOLM UHB 15, and others, for carbon steels, the cutting tool is the tool steel, while hardening of teeth is carried out for which are used high frequency currents.
I would like to note that for cutting metal you can also use a bimetallic saw, which after hardening has a hardness of 65-69 HRC.
Having sorted out a little with the materials from which the strip saws are made, we smoothly move on to the teeth of the cutting tool and their sharpening.
Sharpening of a strip saw
Ribbon saws, which are canvases with a gear edge, connected by ends to a continuous tape, have their own, only inherent advantages to them. The width draped, left by them, drank less width from disk saws. When sawing ordinary wood, this feature may not be too important, however, when cutting valuable wood and cutting expensive metal, this is significantly.
Sharpening of a strip saw
Small width of the cut causes relatively low energy costs for cutting the material. And, finally, the ribbon saw can cut the workpiece of almost any thickness, while the geometry of the disc saw imposes restrictions on the thickness of the material cut by it. However, in order to use all these advantages, tape saws must be able to correctly prepare for work. The main preparatory operations include sharpening and wiring tape saws.
The material drank
Ribbon saws are made from different materials. depending on what material they are intended for.
Daws for wood are made of instrumental alloy steel having a hardness of 40-45 HRC. Domestic manufacturers use 9XF, B2F steel (for ribbon saw for metal) and others., foreign. their steel (C75, UDDEHOLM UHB 15, etc.). When hardening the teeth of such saws of high frequency currents, they can acquire hardness up to 64 HRC and above.
Tempered teeth of a strip saw
Saws for cutting carbon steels and non.ferrous metals of small thickness are also made of instrumental steel with mandatory hardening teeth with high frequency currents. However, more often for cutting metal, bimetallic saws are used, in which the canvas is made of spring steel, and the strip on which teeth are cut, from high.speed steel with high m tungsten and cobalt. After quenching, it acquires hardness up to 65-69 HRC. High.speed steel is welded to the base of the saw by an electronic beam.
Manufacture of bimetallic tape saw
Bimetallic saws are able to cut thick metal from instrumental, stainless, heat.resistant and other steels, titanium alloys and other metals.
Bimetallic strip saw
Teeth with greater wear resistance are obtained by giving them with stellite (with chromium and cobalt with the additions of tungsten and/or molybdenum) or soldering plates from hard alloys to them. Such saws surpass in their cutting abilities bimetallic. They are used for cutting fiberglass, automings, cables, reinforced plastics, heat.resistant alloys, graphite, aerated concrete, bricks and other difficult to process materials.
Ribbon saw with carbide
Geometry of tape saws
Depending on the type and properties of the sawed material, the strip saws have different geometry of the teeth.
For sawing wood, three main types of teeth are used: for carpentry, for dividing saws, for sawing beams and logs.
Ribbon saw profile
Characteristics of tape saws
The specific values of the angle of sharpening of the strip saws are determined by manufacturers based on many factors. In general, such a dependence can be highlighted. The harder the wood, the smaller the front angle (γ).
Different shape of the tooth is also used for metal saws, depending on which metal they are designed. Daws with a constant step distinguish between two main forms.
Standard, designed for cutting thin.walled metal with a short chip with front angle (γ) equal to 0 °.
A tooth with a positive front angle (γ) used in saws for cutting thick.walled metal with long chips.
For thin.walled material, saws with a relatively small step are used (the number of teeth on an inch. from 4 to 18). Saws for cutting thick-walled material do not need a large number of teeth, their number is 1.25-6 teeth per inch.
Step of teeth
To eliminate the effect of resonance, leading to the vibrations of the canvas, some saws are taken with a variable step, in which the distance between the teeth changes within the framework of a separate group. The size of the step is indicated by the largest and smallest values.
Divorce of strip saws
A divorce is the operation of bending the saws of the saw in one side in order to reduce the friction of the saw canvas on the saw wall and prevent its clamping. In order for the canvas to move freely in the propyle, the width of the latter should be more than the thickness of the canvas by 30-60%.
There are several types of wiring, the names of which may differ in different manufacturers. The main species are.
Standard, in which the teeth alternately bend in opposite directions.
Cleansing, in which after bending two teeth, the third does not get divorced, remaining in place.
It is mainly used for saws designed for cutting especially hard alloys and materials. Every third tooth has a trapezoidal shape, it remains in the center of the saw and serves to send the entire saw tape.
How to cut on a pillar to obtain quality material correctly?
Correctly choose a cooling solution. Numerous experiments conducted by American researchers led them to the conclusion that it is incorrect to use water as a lubricant during the operation of tape saws. There is no need to use grease at all until the sawdust begins to “roll” at the saw. In the event that this happens, the optimal lubricant should be used: a mixture of 50% diesel fuel and 50% oil for lubrication of tires of chainsaws.
This mixture should evenly spray on both sides of the canvas of the tape saw. over, in this case, ordinary car glass cleaners work excellently. There should not be many cooling solutions, the operator will easily notice by a characteristic sound when it is time to “cool down”.
The use of such lubrication instead of water will also allow you to reduce the number of blooming boards, and extend the life of belts on the leading pulleys of the sawmills, since they will no longer “sneak” from the sawdust and water that are falling on them.
Remove the voltage from the strip saw as soon as you stop sawing
In the process of sawing wood, the canvas heats up, and therefore stretches, increases in length. Cooling, saws strive to contract to their original size. This is where overloads appear, in other words. Excessive voltage.
The canvas also “fixes in memory” the shape of both pulmonary pulleys, which also does not make his life carelessly long. Add to this inevitable deformation of the belts on the pulleys, which leads to additional vibration of the canvas, as well as a “hump” that is chusing over time on a belt that provides self.centering of the saw on the pulleys.
Wiring can be considered optimal when there is a mixture of 65-70% of sawdust and 30-35% of air between the cutting canvas and the processed wood. The release of 80-85% of sawdust from sawing out of saw out that your saw is divorced correctly.
If the sawing of the saw is too large, a large number of loose sawdust will remain on the boot, and, most likely, characteristic bullying and scratches will remain on the surface of the board.
With a small divorce of saws on the surface of the board, tightly compressed, hot sawdust remains. You just can’t imagine anything worse for a saw. Sawdust should be warm to the touch, not hot or cold. A saw, which is divorced too much, will most likely work with jerks, and the diluted one will not suffer enough “waves” on the board.
Example. When sawing logs with a diameter of 30 cm at a good presentation, everything goes like clockwork. Do not think that it’s also great for you everything will cost a log with a diameter of 60 cm, because now it is necessary to remove twice as many sawdust from the cut. Correctly! Divorce should be increased (approximately 20%). Therefore, among other recommendations, we allow yourself the following: before sawing, the logs should be sorted by diameter.
Remember that only the upper third of the tooth should be diluted, in no case under the “root”. After all, only a sharp corner at the very top of the tooth should participate in the process of sawing. Do not forget also that the softer the tree that you saw, the more there should be a divorce.
And, of course, the sequence of operations is extremely important: the sharpening of the canvas is carried out after wiring, and not vice versa. The sharpening will remove 0.002-0.003 inches, so this should be taken into account when wiring. And finally, never turn off your intuition, the formulas will not help here.
The importance of regular verification of the Divorce device indicator
Do not forget about such a device on your divorce device as an indicator. It costs nothing to bring down his setting. It works in extremely stressful mode, judge for yourself: on your saw there are approximately 220 teeth, you drag the saw 15 times, it turns out that for the life of the saw, the indicator is triggered 3.5 thousand times. The indicator wears out over time, so checking its installation should often.
If the idea occurred to you that the saw will work fine, regardless of what shape the tooth has, drive this thought away. The shape of the tooth was developed and turned out for years. Why do you try to invent a bicycle?
Practical advice: When you go once again to buy canvases, ask a piece of a web of centimeters of Edak 30, make a hole in it and skip a chain to the assault machine. Here you have the standard on which you can copy the shape of the tooth!
Some problems arising during the work of tape sawmills and ways to solve them
At the entrance to the wood, the saw “jumped up”, and then it works evenly, until the end of the log, after which it falls down. This is the so.called “squeezing” or “squeezing”, that is, when the saw squeezes. Most likely, the reason is too much anguing tooth sharpening. Try to reduce the angle by 2 degrees. At the entrance to the wood, I went up. Result. board curve like a saber. The reason is that the angle of sharpening of the tooth is too large with insufficient wiring. Try to reduce the angle of sharpening of the tooth by 2 degrees, and increase the divorce by 0.002-0.003 inches to the side.
The saw dives, and then goes exactly. This behavior is due to several reasons, say, a cutting canvas has become swept away. However, most likely, a small angle of sharpening, or maybe simply the sharpener did not refue the stone in time. Look at the canvas carefully, if the shape of the tooth seems perfect to you, then the angle of sharpening by 2 degrees should be increased.
Saw “diving”, and the resulting board is a curve like a saber. Small angle of sharpening and at the same time insufficient wiring. The angle of sharpening by 2 degrees should be increased and an increase by divorce by 0.002-0.003 inches to the side. On the board there is too much loose to the touch of sawdust. The divorce is too great. If you look closely, you can see the characteristic scratches across the board. Divorce should be reduced.
Sawdust on the board compressed and hot to the touch. Divorce is insufficient. Should be increased.
Wave.shaped sawn. If the saw is acute, then this occurs due to too small a divorce, the divorce of 0.006-0.008 inches to the side should be increased. Remember, the work of an undistorted saw is the most rough violation of the technology that leads to a cliff of the canvas!
The canvas cracks on the back edge. This is due to the fact that the rear stops of the guide rollers are too far from the rear edge of the canvas. This distance should not exceed 0.3 mm.
Sprinking. There is small divorce and there is no enough air in the boot, excess friction on the sawdust occurs, which leads to warming up and “curing” of wood dust on metal. Increase a divorce by 0.005 inches to the side.
Which equipment to choose for sharpening saws?
It has been proved: over 80% of cases of the rupture of the tool occurs due to non-compliance with the rules for sharpening tape saws. The need for manipulation is determined visually. by the type of teeth or the condition of the walls of the cut (an increase in surface roughness).
Circles for sharpening tape saws are selected depending on the hardness of the teeth. To sharpen tools made of instrumental steel, they turn to corundum circles. Bimetallic saws require diamond or borazon samples. The shape of the sharpening circle for strip saws should be determined based on the parameters of the tool. It can be profile, cup, flat, plate.
Before starting work, it is recommended to allow the saw to sag in a turned out to be ten to twelve hours.
Requirements for sharpening tape saws with your own hands:
ensuring uniform cutting of the metal by tooth profile;
the exclusion of excessive pressure of the circle (this can lead to anneal);
ensuring the safety of the height and profile of the tooth;
mandatory presence of coolant;
Standard instructions for sharpening tape saws states that sharpening should be carried out either on the front surface of the tooth, either on the front and back. But this is a theory. In practice, many professionals, and the people’s craftsmen “perform” it exclusively on the back surface. so, in their opinion, more convenient.
In general, despite a lot of rules and requirements, these tools are quite unpretentious in terms of sharpening. You can work with them both using a special sharpening device for strip saws, and manually; apply circles different in shape and material for processing.D.
Before you sharpen the strip saw, you must familiarize yourself with the main methods of this operation.
Is the highest quality, produced on an automatic machine. The Elbor Circle, precisely selected in shape, with one movement passes the entire interdental cavity along with the corresponding surfaces of neighboring teeth. Obtaining angular shapes at the base of the teeth at the same time excluded. The only drawback of such sharpening is the need to have a certain number of circles for “diverse” saws at a constant disposal.
Can be carried out on a professional machine or manually.
If the preference is given to the machine, then, again, you should competently choose a circle. usually these are flat samples. In general, it is recommended to contact a specialized solid equipment only in cases where the volume of work is quite large. Episodic “home” manipulations are best done manually. using an engraver or on a regular machine. When working for security purposes, you should definitely use a mask or protective glasses.
If there is no machine or engraver in your arsenal, then you can sharpen the strip saw and the usual grandfather method. by wielding a file. Three or four confident movements on the rear or front face of each of the teeth-and the point, as they say, is “in the hat”. With regular and diligent performance, the skill of high.quality manual sharpening will appear quickly.
In the case of sharpening the strip saw through the machine, before starting work, it is necessary to make sure that the position of the sharpening disk relative to the tool.
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It is very important to remove such a amount of metal from the sinuses that all microcracks are guaranteed to be eliminated.
If the tool “functioned” without quality service longer than the manufacturer allowed, the amount of metal removed in one sharpening should be increased.
To check the sharpening results, always use a new tool as a standard.
Form of the saw tooth. a parameter developed and verified for years. Therefore, to hope that the tool will saw “like clockwork”, regardless of what you “do” with teeth is a huge misconception.
Subject to operational requirements, the strip saw will serve you in the conscience until its width decreases to a number equal to 65% of the initial value. The width is reduced, of course, in the process of the re.placement.
There is a completely absurd recommendation that there is no particular need to remove burrs after processing. If you “listen” to it, then the appearance of microcracks in the canvas is guaranteed.
After operation, the strip saw should be immediately cleaned of tar and sawdust, and before sharpening. a thorough inspection. Otherwise, the risk of clogging of the sharpening discs is extremely high. And this inevitably entails the “hack” of the sharpening procedure.
Proper divorce and sharpening of a strip saw.
Correctly pull the strip saws to check the correctness of the tension of the tape saw, perform the test for vibration. Hakanson sawblades tape saws are low tension saws, t.e. work with a tension of 35-50% less than competing carbon saws. Non.resistant ribbons, which provides sufficient stability, reduces the effect of the effect of fatigue with constant bend by 70% or more, therefore, significantly extends their service life. Energy consumption is reduced by 20%. Silco saw tension force should be about 100-150 kg/cm2. In particular, saws 32-51 mm wide for tape saw saws should be pulled by a force of about 130-150 kg/cm2. To measure the tension of the strip saw on your machine, there should be some device (dynamometer, manometer, etc.P.). If you don’t have it. Use our tensometer. The tension force used also largely depends on the design of your machine or sawmill. To use tape saws to the maximum extent, if possible, always try to follow the recommendations below. BUT. For machines with mechanical tension. Remove the guide rollers. You cannot conduct this check if the canvas of the strip saw is limited in horizontal movement. Make sure that the surface of the saw wheels are good condition. If they are equipped with belts, belts should not be hard, curved, split or broken. On machines with an inaccurate hillock of wedge belts, replace them to a smaller size so that they are fitted tightly. This will reduce vibrations on your machine or sawmill by more than 80%. Install the canvas on the machine and pull with the effort recommended by other manufacturers for saws from other steels. Close the casing for security purposes. Run the car by putting the switch in the cutting mode at high speed. Stand in front of the machine, hand on the tension mechanism, eyes on the strip saw. Start to loosen the canvas very slowly without taking your eyes off it. You must reach a position where the canvas begins to vibrate. When you see that the canvas begins to vibrate. You have reached a zero position. Now start adding the tension by turning the tension screw by a quarter of turn. Slowly, until the saw stops vibrating and does not begin to function stably again. At this point, add another full turn of a stretch screw. Now your canvas is stretched correctly. Disconnect the machine and put your guides back in place. You are ready to work. Always remove the tension of the canvas in breaks between work. When you weaken the tension, remember that to completely relax the saw, just turn the screw at 8-10 full speeds. For tension, it will be enough for you to turn the screw in the opposite direction to the same number of revolutions. If you do these procedures, as indicated above, it will be enough for you to perform a test for vibration only once. B. For machines with hydraulic tension. Provide the above operations. In this case, reduce and increase the pressure with steps 10-12 kg. After you eliminate vibration, add another 25 kg. Remember the pressure on the manometer scale. Always remove the saw tension in between work the next time you use the tape again, use the installations you remember so as not to repeat the test for vibration. AT. For machines with pneumatic tension. Provide the above operations. At the same time, reduce and increase the pressure of 5 kg steps. After you eliminate vibration, add another 5 kg. Remember the pressure on the manometer scale. Always remove the saw tension in between work the next time you use the tape again, use the installations you remember so as not to repeat the test for vibration. Attention: if you do not test the vibration for our saws of special silicon steel, you will pull them and will not get the wear resistance and durability that our high.plastic saws are capable of. 2. Selection of proper lubrication for the blade of tape saw. Never use water as a lubricant for ribbon saws. Water is not lubricant and should not be used for many reasons. Not only is the water unacceptable as lubricants, it also causes rusting the canvas, causing corrosion, and inappropriate fan of the chips. This prematurely destroys the body of the tape, and the recesses between the teeth of the saw. Water is also wet tires or wedge belts. No need to lubricate the canvas if the resin does not stick on the saw canvas. If the sticking really occurs, we can offer you the following: to get the correct lubricant, mix high.adhesive oil for chainsaws in half with kerosene or diesel fuel. Apply the resulting mixture using a sprayer on both sides of the canvas every four minutes during the operation of the machine. After lubrication, the noise from sawing is reduced by more than 50%. Do not apply grease until the noise begins to increase. You must lubricate both sides of the saw. The lubrication of the canvas increases the life of the tape by more than 30%. Economically using lubrication, you can saw a high.grade forest without kidding it; We also believe that this extends the service life of rubber gaskets. 3. Always weaken the tension of the strip saw. When you finish the work, remove the tension from the saw. During operation, tape saws always heat up and lengthen, and then shortened during cooling during each cooling period. Therefore, the saws left on the pulleys in a stretched state overload themselves, and they are formed from two pulleys, which causes the appearance of cracks in the hollows between the teeth. When you leave the tape on the machine under the tension, you not only deform the rim and the surface of the belts (which makes them very rough), but also apply excessive voltage to bearings and shafts. Do you want to believe. You want not, you can sooner or later damage the geometry of the pulleys and significantly reduce their service life. You also destroy your rubber gaskets and wedge belts. four. The choice of the correct divorce of the teeth. The divorce is correct if you have a mixture of 65-70% of sawdust and 30-35% of air in the space between the canvas and the wooden wood. A sign that you have chosen the correct divorce is to remove 80-85% of sawdust from a cut. If you have too much divorce of teeth for the existing thickness of wood, then in the puncture you will have too much air and not enough sawdust. You will have overly large losses on sawdust, and perhaps this will be accompanied by traces of the teeth on the surface of the board. If you have insufficient divorce, you will not learn a strong enough air flow to remove sawdust from cut. A sign of this is hot sawdust. This can cause the most destructive harm to the strip saw: working intervals will be short, the saw will fail prematurely. Sawdust should be cold to the touch, and not warm or hot. And finally, with insufficient divorce and improper angle of sharpening, the saw will cut out the wave on the board. A typical example: if you saw a 35 centimeter log, while the sawdust is warm to the touch, the feed rate is normal, long working intervals are withstanded, and at least 85% of wood dust is sucked out. The divorce of the teeth of the saw is correct. Then you take a 60 centimeter log. It would be logical to increase the divorce of teeth with an increase in the mass of the tree by 100%. In fact, in this case you must increase the wiring of teeth by about 20%. From our point of view, you cannot work with the same wiring of teeth with logs of different diameters, drill forest and timber. You must sort timber. For every 20-25 cm increase in size, you must increase the wiring by about 18% depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, wet or dry. The only way to achieve the desired wiring. carry out control cuts of a certain log. Increase wiring by 0.05-0.10 mm on each side until traces of teeth are visible. This means that you work when mixing air and sawdust in a ratio of 50/50. After that, reduce the wiring of the teeth by 0.75 mm on each side, and you will achieve the desired result. Very important: you must dilute only the upper third of the tooth, not the middle or lower. You do not need the cavity between the teeth to be filled completely when sawing. When you work with soft wood, whether it is wet or dry, the chips increase in volume by 4-7 times compared to its condition at the cellular level. Solid rocks of wood, wet or dry, increase in size only in 0.5-3 times, freed from the cellular structure. This means that if you saw 45 cm pine logs, you will need to dilute the teeth 20% more than when you work with the same oak logs. Always make teeth before pulling. It is necessary that the end of the tooth is located perpendicular to the tape canvas. Dilute the teeth 0.02-0.03 mm more than the required, and after sharpening the divorce will be the way you need. It is important to know that there is a real formula for the correct divorce of teeth. For sawing logs on tape sawmills such as avant-garde-LP, we offer a series of “Silco” a 31, 38 wide, and 51 mm and tooth step 19, 22, 25 mm, respectively. The thickness of the canvas 1.07 mm. The teeth drank hardened and divorced by the company with an accuracy of 0.04 mm. Four types of wiring are provided (on both sides):. for dry hard.faced breeds (oak, beech. ). 2.03 mm;. for moist solidolistic rocks.2.18 mm;. for dry coniferous and soft.faced rocks.2.29 mm;. for wet coniferous and soft.faced rocks.2.53 mm. 32 mm saw, step 19 mm soft wood soft wood with a large number of knots medium hard wood, hard wood is very hard, frozen wood recommended angle of sharpening 10 ° 8 ° 10 ° 8 ° Width width, mm wire to the side, mm wiring to the side. mm 0-150 0.53 0.48 150-300 0.60 0.53 300-560 0.74 0.60 560-760 0.86 0.74 more than 760 0.96 0.86 saw 38 mm, step 22 mm soft wood soft wood with a large number of knots medium hard wood, hard wood is very hard, frozen wood recommended angle of sharpening 10 ° 8 ° 10 ° 8 ° Width width, mm wire to the side, mm wiring on side, mm 0-150 0.48 0.43 150-300 0.53 0.48 300-560 0.60 0.53 560-760 0.68 0.60 more than 760 0.78 0.68 saw 51 mm, step 25 mm soft wood soft wood with a large number of knots medium hard wood, solid wood is very hard, frozen wood recommended angle of sharpening 10 ° 8 ° 10 ° 8 ° Width width, mm wire to the side, mm wiring on side, mm 0-150 0.48 0.43 300-560 0.53 0.48 560-760 0.60 0.53 more than 760 0.68 0.60 5. There is only one way of pulling the tapeworm drainage. The stone should pass along the surface of the tooth down, around the base of the hollow between the teeth and up along the back of the tooth with one continuous movement. You do not need to touch the hollow itself. The space between the teeth (galllet). This is not a sawdust garbage. In fact, this is the second of the hardest part of the saw. A good gallet is like an inverted wing of the aircraft. The power flow of air, cooling of steel and the removal of sawdust depends on it. If you have the correct divorce of the teeth, the air is supplied along the log at the same speed as the saw, as a result of the sawdust, are sucked into a gall. Sawdust significantly cool it, passing around the inner and outer side of the next tooth. You need to ensure that the space between the teeth is filled by 40%, which will provide the desired degree of cooling and increase the operation of the saw. If you drag only the front and back of the tooth, you violate the integrity of the hollow, which will lead to a breakdown of the saw. So, you checked your indicator and accuracy of the divorce of teeth, which are actually divorced by 0.02-0.03 more than what you need. You twice checked the angle of feeding of the sharpening device, and it is exactly the one you need. Now you can start sharpening the saw. 6. The correct angle of sharpening. Thanks to deep galletes, we can use the reduced sharpening angles that transmit less heat to the tip of the tooth. The Silco ribbons series uses a tooth angle of 10 degrees, which is able to penetrate into most surface surfaces from medium hard to medium soft. If you work with very solid wood (for example, oak, nut, ash or frozen wood) saw, it may be raised in the process of sawing. This is called repulsion. The angle of inclination of the tooth should be reduced again to 8 °. You will notice that when the angle is switched from 10 ° to 8 °, the tooth takes a more perpendicular position, thus increases the penetrating factor. If the angle of inclination of the tip of the tooth increases from 10 ° to 12 °, this leads to a decrease in the penetrating ability in solid rocks. If you use an angle of inclination of 8 ° for soft wood saws can vibrate from overvoltage if the tree is not knotted. In the presence of solid knots, the angle of inclination should be 8 °. On the other hand, if when working with very hard wooden rocks, the angle of inclination is 12 ° tooth breaks down from a solid surface, because the end of the tooth is directed too much forward. The angle of inclination of the hook of 12 ° causes the effect of repulsion, which leads to raising the saw up. The saw tape is clamped in its movement, saws right across and at the end of the process is lowered. It also leads to overheating of the tape and its overstrain. After making sure that you put up the correct angle of inclination of the tooth, and the galllet mathematically corresponds to this inclination, you will achieve direct sawing. You must understand that the divorce of the teeth and setting the angle of inclination of the tooth are interconnected, they work together. We produce tape saws with four types of teeth divorce with a tooth tilt angle of 10 °. Whatever you saw, in 70% of cases this angle of inclination is ideal for work. Caution: you trust templates and measuring instruments on your machine machine. But they are hardly accurate. Cars wear out. Pins and guides, along which the back of the tape on the embankment is moving, wear out. The tape begins to slide at the corner, only at a corner of several degrees, and you are not able to notice it, but you feel that something is wrong as you just start working on a sharpened tape. To get an idea of the degree of wear of your sharpening machine, think about the next. The saw tape with a length of 4000 mm will pass along the sharpening device at least twice with each sharpening. Six sawing rules. The angle of inclination of the teeth imprisoned 50 tapes. In general, this will be 400 m of the length of the ribbons, which rub the back side of the centering pin, spinning them. How will you find out if the angle of inclination of the tooth is correctly set? Using a transporter. Without it, you can assume that the angle of inclination is set correctly. We have analyzed over 4000 drank since 1992. And more than half of all problems came from the wrong assumption that the angle of sharpening was set correctly.
Divorce of two teeth right away
Machines that divorce two teeth are immediately made of the following types: along with a sharpening machine; separately, only a divorce machine operating from the engine; Separately, only a divorce machine with a manual feed in the form of a wheel (photo 1) or lever.
Illustrations see the PDF version of the magazine
Divorus machine with manual feed in the form of a wheel
The machines for this option are most advertised by sellers, because they seem to facilitate the work of the sharpener, conducting the divorce of two teeth immediately on both sides of the strip saw. This is a very good advertising “noodles” for the ears of those who have never made tape saws on their own. Those who at least once prepared a saw for work know very well that each tooth on the saw is divorced individually. The tooth is always diverted with a pusher to a value, greater than the necessary divorce. When the pusher is withdrawn back, the tooth always shifts to some value back. over, even for one saw, it can fluctuate backing back of each specific tooth within 5. 25 indicator units. Therefore, the sharpener almost always has to make two or three presses, often to different values of the indicator each (that is, with different effort), to obtain the required divorce value. There are also teeth that spring worse than others and already at one or two presses before the indicator of the indicator, as on well-springing teeth, remain on values that are large than the necessary divorce, and they have to be specially bend back.
Now you should understand that it is just impossible to make two teeth well with one pressing. But the machines are well sold, and some are even satisfied with the result. Drawing a saw on such a machine, you always need to know: you will never get a guaranteed good divorce of a strip saw. Divorce will always be unpredictable. With small feeds of the carriage, a accidental batch of a drank with more or less equally spring.loading teeth, a new clean mechanism sometimes manages to saw normally. But problems necessarily arise later. But they begin to look for the reason for these problems anywhere, but not in the divorce, believing that he is very good. For almost all such divorce manufacturers, even indicators do not put. Explaining this by the fact that you install everything once, and then only breed: the hammers always beat the same and what to check here. And you check and see for yourself what a large scatter in the values of the divorce actually.
In addition, the accuracy of the resulting divorce in these machines is strongly affected by the same reasons as in the classic ones: the getting of dirt into the mechanism, the risks on the pusher and support plates. The height of the diluted part of the tooth is especially affected.
The only truly automatic divorce machine is made by Wood-Mizer. The divorce of each tooth is carried out on one side of the saw with a pneumatic trapel by several blows adjustable in strength with constant control of the electronic micrometer of the actually obtained divorce. The next tooth for a divorce by the pusher will be automatically supplied only after the indicator shows the set value. After the divorce ends, the machine stops. Then the saw is removed from the machine, turned out, installed again on the machine, and the divorce is made on the other side.
The machine would be very good if it were not for him, which is unjustified even for service centers, not to mention simple sawmill. And although representatives of Wood-Mizer claim that they sell these divorce machines, I personally have never met them in work and saw only at exhibitions.
Inspection of the details of the mechanism
Before starting work, it is necessary to inspect the nodes of the sawmill.
The lifting mechanism moves the up-down frame using the transmission driven by an electric motor. The control panel is located in an electric cabinet mounted in the upper jumper of the bed, a grounding connection is required. The frame of the tape.cutting machine consists of two beams interconnected. On the ends there are saw pulleys:
Pylorama is equipped with a sawing device containing a spring-screw mechanism.
There is a tank with a lubricant-coolest composition on the casing of saw pulleys.
Assignment of tape pylors SLP
Ribbon sawmills are designed for sawing logs of any rocks on:
Homemade Metal Band Saw
Brill, half.bus, block; Non.coded and rubber.
ribbon sawmills provide high quality of the processed surface; ribbon sawmills provide the accuracy of processing 0.5-1 mm at a length of 6.5 m; ribbon sawmills provide an increased output of finished products compared to frame sawmills; The ribbon saws of this type are characterized by low energy intensity; ribbon sawmills provide the ability to saw small wood with a length of 0.5m and with a diameter of up to 900mm; installation of tape sawmill without a special foundation;
It is easy to verify the advantage of the strip sawmills of SLP above frame sawmills in output. Ribbon sawmills give high.quality lumber of exact sizes, not sawdust. From each log you get more boards, while spending less energy and spending less effort.
Forms of the cutting part and angle of sharpening
At the first stage, the type of tape saw is determined. The main indicator is the shape of the teeth. Depending on this parameter, they are divided into dividing, carpentry or designed for sawing logs. The original geometry and the angle of wiring are determined by the manufacturer. This data is recommended to be recognized at the stage of purchasing components. They are needed to determine the parameters of the machine.
For solid types of wood, the value of the front angle should be minimal. This provides optimal contact of the processing material with metal. If you plan to process soft varieties. to increase the processing speed, you can use models with a large value of the front angle.
The determining parameters for independent updating the cutting edge are:
- The step of the tooth. This is the distance between the cutting elements of the structure. Frequent values - 19, 22 and 25 mm;
- tooth height. The value from its base to the top;
- corner. The main meaning that you need to know for the formation of a cutting plane. For carpentry models, it is 35 °. In dividing saws, the angle is from 18 ° to 22 °. In structures for processing the beam-10 °.15 °;
- divorce. Determines the deviation of the tooth from the common plane of the canvas.
After performing work on the machine, these characteristics should ideally remain unchanged. For each model, the manufacturer determines the maximum deviation value. If it is achieved during operation, it is necessary to purchase a new model.
In order to eliminate resonance in some types of cutting tools, a variable step of the location of the teeth is made. This does not affect manual sharpening, but requires a thorough installation of parameters during automated.
Warring the strip saw
Before forming the cutting edge, the correct wiring of the teeth should be done. Throughout the entire period of operation due to constant loads, their location may change. Therefore, at first, geometry is adjusted, and then sharpening.
Wiring is a bend of teeth relative to the plane of the main canvas. This procedure is performed only on a special machine. In case of high discrepancies along the entire length of the tape, premature damage or breakdown of the canvas is possible. Therefore, before that you should decide on the type of wiring.
The angle of inclination must correspond to the initial. The type of wiring is also taken into account, which may be as follows:
- Classic. Alternate bends of teeth relative to the canvas in the right and left sides;
- cleaning. The first and second teeth deviate to the right and left, and the third remains unchanged. Such a technique is used for saws that are designed to process hard rocks;
- wavy. The angle of wiring for each tooth is individual. As a result, they form a cutting edge resembling a wave. The most difficult type of wiring.
During the execution of extension of the deformation, not the entire tooth is subjected to, but only part of it. Often the deviation occurs 2/3 of the total height.
The average divorce is limited by values from 0.3 to 0.7 mm. This applies to standard models of tape saw on wood.
The purpose of the wiring
The divorce of the strip sawmill performs a very important function. it largely reduces the friction between the canvas and the wooden blank due to the increase in the width of the cut. This is achieved by bending teeth regarding the canvas. But over time, during operation, the cutting elements change their position, which leads to a decrease in the size of the cut. As a result, friction increases greatly, and this can cause a bite of the canvas.
The operator performing the service needs to know how to make a tape saw divorce correctly. Failure to comply with the parameters can lead to a wave of sawing, leaving the canvas. In addition, a certain sequence of bending of teeth should be observed.
As the instruction reads, the divorce of strip saws should only be performed on a special machine, which has an indicator in its design to determine the size of the bending. In this case, all teeth should be taken aside to the same value. The divorce range varies in values from 0.3 to 0.7 mm.
Types of wiring. The nuances of the operation
Before you make a divorce on a strip saw, you should first determine the type of bending. In total, several types are used:
- Classic divorce. It differs in that the teeth alternately bend in different directions. That is, one element bends to the left, the second. to the right;
- cleaning. Slightly different from the first option. Its essence is that two teeth are divorced in different directions, and the third remains unchanged. Divorce of tape sawmill in this way is done in the case of cutting a solid tree;
- wavy. The most difficult method in execution. Here, the size of the bending of each tooth is individual, which provides a wavy configuration of the cutting edge.
Before making a divorce on tape sawmills, several important nuances should be taken into account:
- The size of the bend on all teeth should be the same (does not belong to the wavy method);
- The cutting element should not bend at the base, but only in its parts;
- The force should be applied to a strictly defined point.
Now about how to properly breed tape saws for saws. As already noted, this operation is performed on a special machine. The essence of the work is that the canvas is fixed in the bed. Then the indicator is calibrated. Next, the lever is installed, which will bend (the place of application is selected).
After installation work, the operator bends the tooth, while controlling the indicator the size of its bending. Then the tape moves in the bed and the operation is repeated, but with another cutting element.
The external manifestation of the fact that your saw is divorced correctly is that 80-85% of sawdust is thrown out.
In the case when you divorced the saw too much, there is a lot of air and insufficient removal of the number of sawdust.
In the case of not before wiring the saw on the surface of the board, tightly pressed hot sawdust remains.
A saw that is divorced too much will cut with jerks, the diluted will not be enough to saw in waves.
Another very important point: only the upper third of the tooth should be diluted, only an acute corner should participate in the process of sawing at the very top of the tooth.
Sharpen a saw with a minimum metal removal (t.e. clean the burrs) and then breed.
If there is a problem with sawing, then read 13 points below. This will help you.
At the entrance to the log, the saw makes up and saws exactly almost to the end of the log, after which it falls down. This phenomenon is called “squeezing”, t.e. The saw is squeezing. This is caused by too much angle of tooth sharpening. The angle of sharpening by a couple of degrees should be reduced.
At the entrance to the log, the saw makes up and the board turns out the curve “Like a saber”. This is caused, most likely by the fact that the angle of sharpening is too large, and the divorce is insufficient. Reduce the angle of sharpening of the tooth and increase the divorce. The saw “dives” down and the board turns out the curve “like a saber”. This is caused by insufficient sharpening angle and insufficient wiring at the same time. The angle of sharpening by a couple of degrees should be increased and the divorce increases.
There are too many sawdust on the board, and they are loose to the touch. Divorce is insufficient, it should be increased. Reduce the angle of sharpening.
Sawed it in a wave. If the saw is acute, then this occurs due to too small a divorce, the divorce should be increased.
Dumb, never rewinded saw cracks on the tooth hollows. This is due to the fact that the canvas is not divided enough for the work that they are trying to do, or by the fact that they continued to saw the canvas after it was swept away.
The saw is covered with cracks in the back. This is due to the fact that the rear stops of the guide rollers are too far from the back of the canvas.
Sawdust “roll” on the canvas on the canvas. It is caused by the fact that the saw is not divided enough and there is no enough air in the sawdust, the saw canvas rubs on the sawdust, heats up and wood dust is baked at the saw. Increase divorce.
Sawdust “roll” on the inner surface of the tooth, but this does not happen on the surface of the saw. This is due to the poor sharpening quality (too much supply or too large a metal removal and, as a result, poor surface quality on the tooth hollows), or too much an angle of tooth sharpening, or by the fact that they continued to saw the canvas after it has already dull.
After sharpening, the canvas is covered with cracks on the cavities of the teeth. During the re.plating, at a time it was removed too much metal as a result of which it will turn out to the heaps of the tooth.
Many problems are created by the fact that the sharpening stone is not often and neatly refuel.
Do not forget that whatever the perfect machine you use to saw wood, this is just the device “pulling” the saw through the log. The final result depends on 90% of the correctness of the saw and only 10% of the machine settings as a whole.
Do not forget that the sawing of an undesirable saw. This is the fastest way to break it.
Angle of sharpening. This is the angle of deviation of the end of the tooth from the vertical. The sharpening angle recommended for most cases is 10-12 degrees. For sawing solid and frozen wood, an angle of sharpening 8-10 degrees. For working with soft rocks 12-15 degrees.
Wrestling of teeth. This is an important factor affecting the characteristics of the blade. Remember that when sharpening teeth and reducing their height, the wiring is also reduced.
Sharpening parameters of a strip saw depending on the breed of the processed wood (given in the table.).