8 Steps for Simple Spring Lawn Care. Spring for lawn mower

Steps for Simple Spring Lawn Care

David Beaulieu is a landscaping expert and plant photographer, with 20 years of experience.

Barbara Gillette is a Master Gardener, herbalist, beekeeper, and journalist. She has 30 years of experience propagating and growing fruits, vegetables, herbs, and ornamentals.

Emily Estep is a plant biologist and journalist who has worked for a variety of online news and media outlets, writing about and editing topics including environmental science and houseplants.

When spring is in the air, the first crocuses and daffodils appear to mark the coming of the season. These early signs also tell to you that it’s time to get your lawn ready.

Spring Lawn Care Reel Mowing Lawns

The exact timing of lawn care tasks depends upon the climate in your region. If you get snow in your area, start when you are confident the snow has stopped. Or, start your yard work when the local forsythia plants begin blooming or lilac bushes begin to flower.

For homeowners in most regions, there are certain tasks you should complete in the spring to foster a healthy lawn the rest of the year. Make a checklist of these steps, and you’ll be off to a green start.

Spring Lawn Care Steps

Rake Gently

Raking is the first thing you need to do to prepare your lawn for new growth. You may still have a few fallen leaves on the ground, however early spring raking is done primarily to remove thatch that is deeper than 1/2 inch.

What Is Thatch?

Thatch is the layer of dead turfgrass from the previous year. If this layer becomes too thick (1/2 inch or more), it can be bad for the health of your grass, but a thin layer naturally helps protect the soil by preserving moisture and nutrients.

Think of this as a spring-cleaning for your lawn. Turfgrasses are somewhat tender and vulnerable in the early spring, however, so it’s best to wait until the lawn begins to green up, which signifies the grass blades are firmly rooted and the plants are actively growing. Using a flexible leaf rake, rake thoroughly but gently to help break up deep thatch. If you notice lots of grass blades stuck together, a lawn disease called snow mold may be to blame. New grass may have difficulty penetrating these matted patches, and raking can solve the problem.

Aerate if Necessary

If your lawn gets heavy traffic, such as lots of running and playing in the same spot, this can cause soil compaction. A lawn aerator creates openings in lawn turf that allows water and air to penetrate the soil and reach the grassroots. You can rent a lawn aerator at a big box hardware store, or, if you have a small lawn, use a hand aerator to do it. Spring is not the ideal time to aerate the lawn, but circumstances may require it. If soil is compacted to the point that existing grass can’t grow, it may be necessary to aerate in the spring. Generally, though, spring aerating is discouraged because the aeration holes provide a perfect spot for weed seeds to germinate. Lawn weeds (especially crabgrass) are the first seeds to germinate in the spring, and aerating the lawn stirs them up and gives them an ideal home. If you must aerate in the spring, consider doing it around Memorial Day, after weeds have started growing but before they go to seed.

Assess the Soil

Moss coating the ground can also be a sign of acidic soil. The acidity or alkalinity of soil is measured by the pH scale, with 7 representing perfectly neutral soil. Acidic soils have pH levels below 7, while alkaline soils measure higher than 7. Grass likes a neutral pH, and, if your soil is well outside this range it can be subject to moss growth. A variety of soil amendments can be used to nudge the pH back to an optimal level for growing grass. Adding ground limestone, for example, is a common method for lifting the pH of acidic soils. However, this is not a quick fix, as the liming takes hold gradually. Before you add soil amendments, send a soil sample to your local cooperative extension office to determine your soil’s acidity. The cooperative extension office is a free educational resource offering scientific-based assistance in agriculture, horticulture, and other areas of expertise. All you have to do is call, check on their website, or visit your local extension office, and they can advise you on how much lime per square foot you’ll need. You will need a fertilizer drop spreader to apply the lime. Soil that is too alkaline can also cause lawn problems. Your extension office may recommend a top-dressing of compost or elemental sulfur to lower the pH of extremely alkaline soils.

Overseed

A lawn riddled with bare patches due to dog spots, heavy traffic, or neglect may need an application of grass seed to fill in those patches. Overseeding is the process of sowing seed over existing grass. Apply a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer (starter fertilizer) when you overseed. Keep the new seed moist until it has sprouted and is actively growing. Five weeks after the grass germinates and sprouts, you can begin a normal fertilization routine using quick-release nitrogen fertilizer. It is possible to apply seed only to the visible bare patches, but it is also quite common to overseed the entire lawn to ensure that the lawn remains thick and healthy. This can also be a way to introduce new varieties of grass seed into your lawn. For example, if you’ve recently lost some shade trees, overseeding with a sunny-grass mix can help your previously shady lawn continue to thrive. Fall is the preferred time to do your overseeding, but if your grass is in dire need of help, you can do it in spring. Be prepared to contend with some crabgrass cropping up and feeding off the fertilizer.

Fertilize

Lawns can be fertilized organically by topdressing with compost or using a mulching mower to chop lawn clippings into a nourishing source of nitrogen. But, for those who prefer the fast-acting effects of a chemical fertilizer, the ScottsMiracle-Gro company provides a widely accepted schedule for fertilizing lawns that includes a spring feeding. However, many experts recommend a lighter feeding in spring and a heavier one in late fall for cool-season grasses. Too much fertilizer in spring can lead to disease and weed problems, and if you fertilized in late fall your lawn still has fertilizer to feed on in spring.

Apply Pre-Emergent Herbicides

For those who prefer weed-free lawns, spring lawn care is as much about weed prevention as it is about fostering healthy lawn growth. You do not get rid of all lawn weeds in the same manner. Depending upon whether a weed is annual or perennial, you will use either a pre-emergent herbicide or a post-emergent herbicide. To fight crabgrass, you may need to use both, since this annual weed is very tough to eradicate. Crabgrass begins its assault on lawns in spring when temperatures are 65 to 70 degrees for several days. Pre-emergent herbicides address weeds before their seedlings can even emerge. They work by forming a chemical barrier in the top layer of soil that coats seeds and prevents them from growing roots and shoots. If you are using pre-emergent herbicides, don’t plan on doing any core aeration until the fall. You will puncture the shield and decrease the weed killer’s effectiveness. And be aware that most pre-emergent herbicides also work against grass seeds. Overseeding is not very effective if you’re also applying a traditional pre-emergent herbicide. In years where you are laying down pre-emergent weed killer, wait until early fall to do your overseeding with turfgrass seed.

Tip

Unless your lawn is badly overgrown with weeds, it is best to apply chemical herbicides by spot-spraying weeds rather than over-spraying the entire lawn. While it might seem like a chore, spot-treating becomes quite easy if you start early in the spring, even before the first mowing. As the season progresses, a few minutes of spot-spraying (or weed-pulling) after each mowing will keep your lawn looking great all season.

Apply Post-Emergent Herbicides (Or Pull Spring Weeds)

Dandelions are cheerful yellow flowers that are also stubborn perennial growers, first making their appearance in the spring. To get rid of this weed, snap off their flower stems before they produce seeds. Or, if you are more ambitious, dig them out by the roots using a tool that will extract the entire root and keep it from resprouting. A variety of weed-popper tools are available that do a good job. If you choose to spray a post-emergent herbicide for dandelions, get one formulated for broadleaf weeds. For organic green thumbs who do not use pesticides or herbicides on the lawn, you can harvest the dandelion greens by hand. Other spring weeds to deal with include chickweed, white clover, wild violets, and others, though these usually make their appearance after the dandelions, in late spring and into summer.

Service the Lawnmower

Spring also means it’s time to get out the lawn mower and give it a once over. Start it up; stubborn start-ups are a sign that it might be due for a tune-up. Give your mower a tune-up once a year. In three easy steps, you can get your mower back in tip-top shape. If your lawnmower needs more than a tune-up, then consider getting a new one. Among the key tune-up tasks is sharpening the mower blade. A regular sharpening will ensure the blade severs, rather than tears, the grass plants, leading to a nice green lawn rather than one with ragged brown tips.

How to prepare your lawn mower for spring

It is time to get the mower ready! We have had plenty of rain and now plenty of sun is on the way. The mower may be looking a little rusty and dusty, who knows what has been thrown on top? Looks like a good weekend project has suddenly developed….

First things first.

This is an easy list to follow for preparing your mower.

Are the blades sharp? This is important. Dull blades make your grass weak. Weak grass is not good at fighting disease or pests.

Is the oil fresh? If you oil is from last season, drain it and replace with new.

Did you check the air filter? Experts say we should do this every season. If you have a washable filter, soak it in warm, soapy water. If it’s made of cardboard or paper, just pop in a new one.

Lubricate all moving parts!

Do you need a new fuel filter? Fuel filters can’t be cleaned because they can easily be damaged, so just buy a new one.

Get a new spark plug! These are inexpensive, no need to clean or reuse old ones.

Replace the belt or battery if needed.

Check your fuel! If you have left fuel in your mower for more than 30 days, go ahead and drain it and fill with fresh fuel.

Here is a link to a YouTube video to help you get that mower started if you are having trouble.

And for those of us need a little more help….

While Lawn and Pest Solutions is not in the business of mowing lawns, we want to help you have the healthiest lawn you can and having the proper equipment is very important to achieving a beautiful lawn. Getting your lawn mower ready for spring is one step you can take at home. If you need more help on getting a beautiful lawn, we have a staff of professional lawn technicians. Lawn and Pest Solutions can help you, just contact us today.

Lawn and Pest Solutions serves Memphis and North Mississippi region with knowledgeable and licensed lawn and pest technicians. Our techs are friendly, dependable and trustworthy employees who will go to great lengths to provide you with the best service.

How to Recoil Lawn Mower Spring?

I recently noticed that my lawn mower was not starting even though the pull cord was in good working condition. I also noticed that whenever I tried to start my mower, the pull cord does not recoil back into the housing. I told my neighbor about this problem, and he told me it was not a big issue, he said I should check my recoil lawn mower spring and fix it. He assured me that it was a very easy thing to do, and that motivated me. I decided to fix my recoil lawn mower spring and here are the steps I followed to achieve this:

Our other guides you might also be interested in:

Remove the Engine Cover

The engine cover should be detached by removing the screws on the engine cover. This will give you access to the recoil assembly, depending on the type of lawn mower you have. You might need to remove the engine tank in order to have access to the recoil assembly of some types of lawnmowers.

Remove the Screw from the Recoil Assembly

This will make it possible for you to detach the recoil assembly from which you can remove the pulley either with a screwdriver or a wrench depending on the bolt that is holding it.

Spring Lawn Care Steps. How To Have THE BEST Looking Lawn In The Neighbourhood This Spring

Remove the Starter Spring

The starter spring is below the pulley. Remove it and replace it with a new starter spring on the recoil assembly. The next thing is to place the pulley over it and tighten the Screw to hold it in place and secure it.

Re-tension the Starter Spring

This is done by winding it in an anticlockwise direction, after which you securely hold the tensioned pulley with one hand and the starter cord with the other hand. Slowly release the cord to allow it rewind the pulley before you pull the cord several times to ensure that it recoiled properly.

The final thing to do is to reinstall the recoil assembly into the housing before fixing the engine cover. If the recoil assembly is below the engine tank, you would need to fix it first before attaching the engine cover. All screws should be tightened properly during these procedures.

The good thing about these processes is the fact that you do not need so many tools to follow it. All you need is a wrench, a screwdriver and a replacement starter spring. A precaution to take note of during this process is to ensure that you do not lose grip of the pulley as you wind it. This is because it has so many sharp tabs that could easily give you a cut if care is not taken.

Remember that your mower has very little chances if starting if your recoil spring is not properly fixed or completely damaged. The above steps take nothing more than 20 minutes to achieve, and you can get to do it on your own without the help of a specialist.

Preparing your Lawn Mower for Spring

Spring is right around the corner, which means flowers are soon to bloom, the birds are soon to return and your lawn is soon to flourish after another winter.

And when the grass greens up and begins growing again, you’re going to need to cut it. But you can’t just pull your lawn mower out of storage and think it’s good to go.

Just as you should have taken winterization steps in storing your mower for winter, there are certain preparatory steps that you need to take before it’s ready to go for spring.

Here’s a look at tips for preparing your lawn mower for spring:

Fuel

You should have drained, or run dry, the fuel tank before storing it for winter, but if you didn’t, don’t fret, just drain it now. Then, fill it back up with fresh fuel. Don’t stop there though. in order to ensure the fuel you’re putting into your mower is pure, especially for its first cut of the year, be sure to add a fuel additive. This helps mitigate future fuel problems and also helps the engine run better.

Sharpen the Blade

A dull blade won’t just damage your lawn, but it will cause the mower engine to work harder to do the job it needs to do. So be sure to sharpen the blade before the first cut of the season. If you’re uncomfortable sharpening it yourself, take it into a local service shop where they can handle this and more in terms of getting your mower up and running well.

Clean the Engine

Pop the cover off of the engine and give the area a good cleaning. Get rid of any of the excess grass clippings and gunk that may have built up around the engine and the fan over the past year so that the mower sounds good and runs well.

New Oil

Finally, you should also change the oil on your mower at least once a year. Why not in spring? First, drain the oil from the crankcase and then refill it per your user manual’s recommendation. We also recommend installing a new spark plug.

To recap, prepping your lawn mover for spring is a task that can largely be done by yourself, simply by:

This post was published on April 9, 2014 and was updated on April 15, 2021.

Which mower height is best for spring lawns? Experts advise on this seasonal lawn care query

If you are keen to cut the grass but unsure which mower height is best for a lawn in spring, then our experts can help you avoid making a mistake that could damage your lawn.

Why is getting your mower height right important in the first place, you might wonder? Well, if you cut fresh grass too short, too early, in the growing season it can stress the grass before it has a real chance to re-energize after its dormant period. This can set it back for the rest of the season. Mow it too late and you won’t be doing your mower any favors dealing with the long grass.

We spoke to leading lawn care professionals to discover more. Here they share their tips about getting the right mower height for when you start mowing the lawn in spring.

Which mower height is best for spring lawns?

Hands up, who looks forward to cutting the lawn after winter but is secretly nervous of doing so? Us too! There seems to be a degree of lawn care jeopardy when it comes to setting the right lawn mower height for this first mow of the season, but it really isn’t that complicated, as leading experts explain.

‘Ultimately, the best mowing height for your spring lawn will depend on your individual situation, including the type of grass you have, the condition of the soil, and the climate in your area. For that reason, it’s a good idea to consult with a local lawn care professional or do some research on the specific type of grass you have to determine the best mowing height for your lawn,’ advises Stacie Krljanovic, a head Groundkeeper in Houston, TX, and advisor to Patio Productions.

‘In general, however, it’s best to set your lawn mower at a higher height during the spring season,’ adds Stacie. ‘A good rule of thumb is to set your mower blade so that it cuts the grass to a height of about 3 to 4 inches. This allows the grass to grow a bit taller and develop a stronger root system, which can help it to better withstand the heat and drought stress of summer.’

Susan Brandt, co-founder of Blooming Secrets, agrees that the ideal cutting height should be guided by your location and the type of grass that dominates your lawn. ‘Depending on where you live, your type of grass will differ. Cool season grasses can be mowed to a height of 3 or more inches and warm season grasses as low as half an inch up to 1.5 inches.’

Benefits of a longer cut in spring

Besides looking lush and verdant, leaving grass at a longer length for the first few weeks of the growing season can be hugely helpful for the health of your lawn.

The experts at Amateur Gardening are quick to point out that mowing too short in spring can actually weaken the grass, which allows lawn moss and weeds to become established and spoil the lawn.

‘A higher mowing height in the spring can certainly help reduce annual weed emergence and maximize the root growth potential of your lawn,’ confirms Eric DeBoer, agronomist for Simple Lawn Solutions. ‘ leaf mass supports more root mass.’

Simply put, the larger the area of the leaf, the more the plant can photosynthesize and create energy to direct into strengthening its roots. Most grasses will generally develop roots that are around three times as deep as the height of its leaves. Deep roots in turn will boost the plant’s reserves to withstand the heat and any potential drought conditions.

How do I know the best height to set my mower blades at?

It is best to ‘follow any suggested mowing height guidelines given on the label of your grass seed bag,’ says Robert Martinez from Yardenz, but there is some discretion to be had depending on the condition of your grass.

‘If your lawn is very thick and lush, you may need to mow it a bit lower in order to prevent the grass from getting too tall and falling over,’ says Stacie Krljanovic, a head groundkeeper in Houston, TX. ‘On the other hand, if your lawn is thin or patchy, you may want to leave the grass a bit taller to encourage thicker growth and better coverage.’

When should I lower the height of my mower blades?

Many experts agree that it’s not always necessary to lower mower blades during the growing season, and in fact, your lawn can be healthier if kept long. Taller grass copes much better in hot, dry conditions than close cropped turf which can scorch and die back.

Once you’ve decided the time is right to cut your lawn in spring, it seems it pays to increase the mower height and not trim the grass too short too early in the season. Doing this, as well as fertilizing your lawn in spring, should help ensure you have a green and thick lawn for the rest of the spring and summer.