9 Homemade Chainsaw Mill Plans You can DIY Easily. Homemade portable sawmill

Homemade Chainsaw Mill Plans You can DIY Easily

Whether you have to deal with fallen trees after a storm or you have an excess of timber from felling trees on your property, a good chainsaw mill will allow you to produce usable boards and planks without needing to pay the expensive fees of a professional miller.

You can buy a chainsaw mill – there are plenty to pick from for just about every budget – but if you are confident in your DIY skills, you may decide to build your own instead. For anyone who is thinking about trying but who doesn’t know where to start, we bring you 9 homemade chainsaw mill plans you can DIY easily.

Comprehensive guide to chainsaw mills

Here’s a great page we found written by a woodworking enthusiast in the UK that gives you a lot of information about chainsaw mills, why to use one, the pros and cons, safety tips, alternatives and a whole lot more.

He also includes details of how to make your own from some inexpensive materials you can easily get your hands on. If you want an in-depth introduction to chainsaw mills and a guide to how to make your own, this is a great place to start.

Detailed build instructions

Here’s another great page we found that explains how to go about building your own DIY chainsaw mill at home. There are plenty of photos included so you can see how it’s supposed to look, and the end result seems pretty impressive.

What we love most about this page is how much detail it goes into for every step. The poster is obviously very methodical, and as long as you are not a total DIY novice, these are plans you should be able to follow with ease.

Another thing we like is the fact there is a message board at the bottom of the page – so you can read some of the problems other DIYers have encountered trying to build one, along with the solutions.

Homemade vertical chainsaw mill

Here’s a more original idea – rather than the typical “Alaskan” chainsaw mill that is available to buy and that many people try to make at home, this DIYer came up with a plan for a simple chainsaw mill that cuts vertically.

As the poster explains, the idea came about when he started to consider how to reduce the inefficiency associated with more common chainsaw mill designs. His solution was to create a mill that uses gravity to do the work.

As he admits, it’s “quick and dirty” – but there are plenty of photos and clear instructions, so everything you need is there if you decide you want to have a go at making one too.

High-quality large chainsaw mill

If you are feeling ambitious and want something that is capable of producing high-quality planks and boards, this very well-made chainsaw mill created by a talented woodworker and artist could be of interest.

This is the polar opposite of “quick and dirty” – this is a mill that required many hours of research and then many more hours to actually construct. However, as is clear from the poster’s Комментарии и мнения владельцев, it is something to be proud of once it is finished.

If you have the time, skills and materials to build something like this, it will potentially give you a tool that is at least as good – if not better – than a commercial chainsaw mill you can buy.

Cheap homemade chainsaw mill

Here we’ve found an excellent YouTube video that shows you how to make a DIY chainsaw mill that will cost you under 50.

The poster’s primary concerns – apart from saving as much money as possible – were to make it comfortable to use and safe to operate.

His video is very well-made with good instructions and explanations of what he did.

This guy is talented DIYer – in the video, you can see some of the other amazing stuff he’s made before. He obviously takes great pride in his work and he’s also good at explaining the reasons for what he’s doing at each step. This is someone we can all learn a thing or two from.

Simplest homemade chainsaw mill

If you are looking for the simplest plan available, here is another YouTube video that should appeal to you.

The video itself is simple, short and to the point, but it tells you everything you need to know about how to make a DIY chainsaw mill. You can easily try to copy this design at home yourself – and this is one of the most inexpensive plans we found.

When he finishes up and gives you a demo, you can see how his creation works. The only downside we can see is that it looks like he had to drill a hole in his chainsaw bar – not something everyone will enjoy doing.

Anyway, top marks for creating an uncomplicated and inexpensive chainsaw mill that does exactly the job it was designed for.

Chainsaw mill video with good commentary

This is another YouTube video that demonstrates a homemade chainsaw mill in action before going on to explain how it was made.

There are a couple of things we like about this video. It starts off by giving you a bit of background about why this mill was originally created before going on to explain the details of how to use it.

There are some informative passages showing how to put it all together, and we also like the tips and commentary he gives about how to successfully make and operate a chainsaw mill.

For example, in one section he talks about how he has learned to put the mill on an incline so that gravity helps with the work, making it less strenuous to use.

Whether you copy his design or not, this video has plenty of useful information about making DIY chainsaw mills and is well worth checking out.

Large homemade chainsaw mill

This YouTube video we found is interesting for a couple of reasons. First, it gives you an idea of what can be achieved if you put your mind to it.

This chainsaw mill is a little more complicated than some of the others we’ve seen and involves more than just strapping a chainsaw to a rigged-up frame. However, we are impressed by the quality of cut this contraption seems to be able to achieve.

Unfortunately, there are few instructions on how to build one yourself at home, so unless you are extremely handy, this is going to be beyond most people.

There is another reason we wanted to include this video, though – we thought it was worth putting in as a safety warning. If you decide to build your own mill at home, make sure you pay attention to safety features as well as just cutting ability.

If you want to know what we’re talking about, just check out the video at 2:25 and see how close his knee comes to the blade. Without chainsaw chaps, the guy in the video came so close to a serious injury – and he was completely unaware how lucky he was!

Homemade chainsaw mill with no welding required

Here’s one last video we found on YouTube that shows how a guy created his own chainsaw mill attachment, all without the need for any welding.

There are no words, you just need to watch the video and follow what he is doing. However, the video is well made, and the steps are easy to understand and copy.

The materials he uses are inexpensive and easily available, and he takes care to show exactly what he is doing as he works.

When everything is done and he starts cutting the tree, we can see exactly how effective his chainsaw mill really is.

Something else we like about this post is the Комментарии и мнения владельцев below. The DIYer has done a good job with what he has made, but some of the commenters let him know how he could improve things further – for example, using a chainsaw sharpener or buying a better chainsaw!

This is one of the great things about the internet – the pooling of ideas and experience – and this video along with the Комментарии и мнения владельцев below should help give you a few pointers on how to build a chainsaw mill of your own.

Have fun DIYing – but be careful

With any DIY project, you should always think about safety first. However, chainsaws are just about the most dangerous tools you can own, so when building a DIY chainsaw mill, make sure you take extra precautions – we saw in #8 how danger is never far away.

Assuming you know how to handle a chainsaw and take the necessary steps to ensure your safety, building your own chainsaw mill at home can be a highly rewarding enterprise. If you do a good job, it will also give you an inexpensive and effective way to deal with any fallen or felled trees you have on your property.

Buyer’s Guide To Portable Sawmills

Via Woodmizer.com

Milling your own lumber can save you big bucks, and maybe even earn you a few. A portable sawmill comes to the log and makes it relatively easy.

Our editors and experts handpick every product we feature. We may earn a commission from your purchases.

Lumber increased during the pandemic. Although came down when some lumber shortages were resolved, other factors, such as dwindling forest supplies, probably will be with us for the foreseeable future. That means are likely to remain volatile.

And that makes sawing your own lumber an increasingly Smart decision, assuming you have a ready supply of suitable logs.

A full-scale lumber producer has the means to transport the logs to the sawmill. But to turn your own fallen trees into lumber, you’ll need to bring the sawmill to the logs. There are plenty of portable sawmills on the market, but increasing demand lengthened wait times to a year or more for some of the most popular models.

In any case, most DIYers should choose a chain saw mill. These are far and away the least expensive portable option and the easiest to deploy. There’s no wait time if you order one of these.

What Is a Portable Sawmill?

A portable sawmill is a track that clamps to a log, allowing you to make straight cuts with your chainsaw. Bigger, more expensive and more efficient units come with a bandsaw or circular saw sized for milling logs. Some have cradles to hold logs, but some cut logs in place.

Users may have to load logs onto the cradles of less-expensive machines with a log peavey or cant hook. Both are long-handled log-turning tools. But top-of-the-line portable sawmills come with hydraulic log loading systems.

Why would you want a portable sawmill? For one reason: to mill your own lumber. The alternative is selling your seasoned logs to a sawmill for transport to their facility. That’s easier than milling them yourself, and while it might generate income, it isn’t as cost-effective.

A portable sawmill gives you a ready supply of lumber for free. Considering lumber prices, it can quickly pay for itself.

Types of Portable Sawmills

If you do a quick search for portable sawmills, you’ll find that most are chain saw mills. They are the least expensive, most easily transportable and most DIY friendly, but not the most efficient. Two other kinds work faster and produce better results. Here’s a rundown of the three types available:

Chain saw mill

This is merely a metal track that clamps to a log and guides the saw through the wood. You have to supply the saw.

A reliable model accepts saws with bars from 10 to 36 inches long (and longer) and costs less than the saw itself. It’s a great option for large logs, because it lets you do the milling without moving the log.

Band saw mill

Basically, this is a super-large and heavy-duty version of a shop Band saw, with a few key differences. The blade housing is positioned over a conveyor track and the blade oriented parallel to the track, so the saw cuts logs on the horizontal rather than vertical plane. The housing typically glides along a track to cut a stationary log.

Circular saw mill

Circular saw blades are faster than other blades at milling lumber, and most large-production sawmills use them. To make this technology portable, a circular saw is typically mounted on an overhead, moveable track and cuts through a stationary log.

An innovative example is the swing-blade sawmill, which lets you rotate the saw 90 to 180 degrees and slice boards of accurate depth and width without moving the log. That’s unique to this type of sawmill.

How to Choose a Portable Sawmill

Choose based on need. If you’ve got one or two logs you want to turn into beams or posts, a chain saw sawmill is fine. It works slowly, and the wide kerf (thickness) of the saw blade means it wastes wood. But it will do the job without moving the log.

People interested in actual lumber production, for their own project or for sale, are better off with a bandsaw or swing-blade sawmill. These tools cut faster and more accurately than a chain saw. Their blades with thinner kerfs produce less sawdust and waste less wood.

Of these two, the Band saw mill is the more popular. The blade has the thinnest possible kerf, it’s less likely to be damaged by metal in the wood, and you can send it to the shop for re-sharpening. (Typical cost is around 10 per blade, plus shipping.)

On the other hand, circular saws produce straighter, more accurate cuts. They excel with large-diameter logs, although they don’t work as well as a Band saw for milling small logs.

How Much Do Portable Sawmills Cost?

As you might expect, chain saw mills are the least expensive. They average around 100, although some models cost as much as 300.

Band saw mills start at around 4,000 for an entry-level model. A top-of-the-line machine, with a hydraulic loader and attachments for planing and sanding, can handle extra-wide logs. They cost as much as 70,000.

for a swing-blade sawmill can range from 6,000 to 40,000, with 20,000 about average. You’ll pay extra for attractive add-ons like a planer, orbital sander, and a router bit for producing tongue-and-groove boards straight off the mill.

Best Portable Sawmills

The best sawmill for you does the job within the parameters you set for it. If you’re milling lumber for personal use, here are some top choices:

Best chain saw mill

Via Amazon.com

The Imony 36-inch Portable Chain Saw Mill is easy to deploy and accepts chain saw bars up to 36 inches, suitable for pretty hefty logs. Made of aluminum and steel, it’s lightweight and strong.

Best Band saw mill

Via Woodmizer.com

The Wood-Mizer LX2515 accepts logs up to 26 inches in diameter. You’ll want this only if you’re interested in moderate to large-scale lumber production. The log clamps firmly into the cradle while the operator turns a crank to move the saw along a track to slice it into boards.

It’s a basic machine at an affordable price. One of its most attractive features is Wood-Mizer’s reputation for good customer service.

Best swing-blade saw mill

Via Petersonsawmills.com

It’s tough to find swing-blade sawmills at retail outlets. But if you’re prepared to go to the source, the Junior Peterson is worth the effort. Specifically for home and farm use, it sets up in five to 10 minutes and mills a log in place — no forklifts or winches needed.

Chris Deziel has been active in the building trades for more than 30 years. He helped build a small city in the Oregon desert from the ground up and helped establish two landscaping companies. He has worked as a carpenter, plumber and furniture refinisher. Deziel has been writing DIY articles since 2010 and has worked as an online consultant, most recently with Home Depot’s Pro Referral service. His work has been published on Landlordology, Apartments.com and Hunker. Deziel has also published science content and is an avid musician.

Woodland Bandsaw Mills from Woodland Mills

The HM130MAX is a wide capacity sawmill for sawyers looking to mill popular live edge slabs. Featuring a 30” (76cm) diameter log capacity matched with a 30” (76cm) throat opening that produces stunning high-value live edge boards. The HM130MAX Anniversary Edition is loaded with new features like our RapidChange blade system, auto lube, an operation hour meter, wider cut capability and much more.

The head moves up and down along galvanized steel channel via a very easy to turn hand crank system. The blade is kept lubricated by utilizing a water drip system. This prevents sap from gumming up your blade.

The Facts

• 14 H.P Kohler gas engine with electric start. (battery not included)
• Full 4 post head design
• 30″ log diameter capability
• 10′ 5″ cutting length
• 6′ 5″ track extension available
• Autolock adjustable blade guide for better blade stability during narrow cuts
• Rapid change blade system
• Auto lubrication system
• 13L/3.4 Gal lubricant tank size
• 2x QuickLock log clamps
• Powder coated and galvanized steel finishes
• Leveling feet
• Centrifugal clutch blade engagement
• Track width 37″
• Hour Meter
• Woodlander Trailer sold separately

See below for more details, features, specifications and warranty.

Click on the images below to see a larger version.

NOTE: Additional shipping charges may be applicable in some areas. Please inquire prior to ordering.

Special Offer: A minimum discount (more depending on total package) of 100.00 is offered for any Woodland Mill purchase paid by cash, wire transfer, Etransfer, or direct cash deposit to our account at any branch of Royal Bank of Canada ( bank details provided).

Current Model with updates and ELECTRIC START

HM130MAX Sawmill 399.00 Inbound freight to most locations. 14HP engine, Ability to mill logs up to 30″ diameter and 10 ft in length. Additional track extensions are available to increase log length capacity.

An inbound freight charge of 299.00 still applies if you pick the mill up in Prince George as that is what we pay to bring mill in from the factory.

Track extension 6’5”. Includes cam action log clamp, 2 cross members, long short post.

Auto lube kit 14 HP. Stops lubricant flow when throttle released.

HM130MAX Anniversary edition sawmill

Now you can produce beautiful wide live edge slabs for tabletops, counters, benches and more. The HM130MAX features a 30” (76cm) diameter log capacity matched with a 30” (76cm) throat opening allowing for sawyers to produce wider cuts. Get more horsepower with the included 14HP Kohler gas powered electric start engine. A heavy-duty 4 post head design with reinforced back beam support the serious HM130MAX cutting power. All major steel components are powder coated or galvanized steel. The HM130MAX is loaded with new and innovative features like the automatic blade lubricant system that activates when the throttle is engaged and the RapidChange blade system makes for quick and tool-less blade changes. HM130MAX is designed to be the most affordable and robust wide cut sawmill in the market.

Wide precision Cutting

We’ve widened the throat to match the maximum log diameter. This is what gives you the ability to slice right through 30” (76cm) logs without squaring the cant. Cut logs 10’ 5” (3.1m) long with the standard track configuration or unlock unlimited length potential with optional 6’ 5” (1.95m) track extensions. Unbelievable cut accuracy and precision lets you cut veneers as thin as 1/16” (2mm). Cut within 1” (25mm) of the deck ensuring you maximize your usable board foot output.

efficient power for bigger logs

A reliable 14HP 4-cycle Kohler gas powered electric start engine powers the HM130MAX. Featuring a slant cylinder design with a cast iron cylinder bore and overhead valve for easy access. The Quad-Clean 4 stage air filtration systems ensures only clean air enters the engine for maximum power and engine lifecycle. The industrial centrifugal clutch offers easy gas-and-go operation. An electric and recoil start option come standard. A 12V battery is required for electric start and is not included with purchase.

autolocking sawhead and adjustable blade

Super precise and consistent control. Simply push the handle in and rotate through 16 locking locations to move the sawhead up or down. Coupled with an acme lead screw, you’ll get super accurate adjustments within 1/64” accuracy. Traditional magnetic log scale rulers are also included to line up your cuts.

Keep the guides close to the wood being cut and reduce blade wander. The Auto Locking Adjustable Blade Guide is constructed using stainless steel v-rollers and a matched machined aluminum arm making it a premium system over traditional adjustable blade guides.

The throttle handle engages the engine RPM, saw blade and auto lube system simultaneously. This system makes the process of cutting lumber quick and efficient and reduces the number of steps required by the operator. The throttle handle position can also be adjusted for comfort depending on track height.

rapidchange Blade system. thin kerf

Exclusive to Woodland Mills is the RapidChange blade system. This is a tool-less approach for changing blades quickly and reduces the amount of blade tracking adjustments between blade changes. A stack of Belleville washers act as a shock absorber for the blade while giving consistent blade tension in all temperatures ensuring less stress on your blades.

The HM130MAX utilizes standard 1.25″ x 158″ x.042″ (32mm x 4013mm x 1mm) Lenox Woodmaster hardened tipped blades which are available through Woodland Mills. Maximize the most amount of lumber per log with a blade kerf of just.080” (2mm).

go mobile with woodlander

Move your HM130MAX between locations with the Woodlander trailer. Packaged together, the HM130MAX Woodlander trailer provides you with mobility to bring the sawmill to different work sites or easily move into storage. Levelling jacks are provided so you can quickly level the trailer and tracks when deployed.

rigid Track System

The HM130MAX sawmill head rolls along a rigid 2.5″ x 4″ (63mm x 101mm) “L” channel which is cross supported with heavy-duty 3″ x 6″ (76mm x 152mm) rectangle channels. These cross supports ensure the weight of the log is dispersed over a large bearing surface to avoid marking the log with indentation. The cross supports are also covered with a stainless steel cap to prevent certain woods (such as oak) from being stained from contact with painted surfaces. These heavy-duty cross supports also provide additional rigidity to the track system. The track features two adjustable quick lock log clamps to securely hold the log while milling. The track itself consists of two 6’ 5” (1.95m) sections allowing for 10’ 5” (3.1m) log lengths. Additional 6’ 5” (1.95m) tracks may be attached to accommodate logs of any length.

Warranty

The sawmill is covered with a 2 year warranty against manufacturer’s defect and excludes wearing parts (belts, blades bearings). The Kohler engine is covered by a 3 year commercial warranty which is honoured through any Kohler small engine dealer.

New HM126 Portable Sawmill (Current)

The sawyer favourite HM126 Portable Sawmill just got even better. Perfect for hobby sawyers, entrepreneurs or seasoned woodworkers. The HM126 Anniversary Edition adds new features like the RapidChange blade system, auto lube, an operation hour meter, wider cut capability and much more while remaining one of the best valued portable sawmills in the industry.

The Facts

See below for more details, features, specifications and warranty.

Click on the images below to see a larger version.

NOTE: Additional shipping charges may be applicable in some areas. Please inquire prior to ordering.

Special Offer: A minimum discount (more depending on total package) of 100.00 is offered for any Woodland Mill purchase paid by cash, wire transfer, Etransfer, or direct cash deposit to our account at any branch of Royal Bank of Canada ( bank details provided).

NEW Now also available with 14 HP Kohler engine

Current Model HM126 with 14 HP with significant updates and changes For Bandsaw 399 shipping to most locations in Canada Please note that if you pick up your bandsaw mill at our Prince George, BC location, you still pay 299 inbound factory freight as that is what we pay to bring a bulk shipment of bandsaw mills into Prince George from factory.

Auto lube kit 14 HP. Stops lubricant flow when throttle released.

Auto lube kit 9.5 HP. Stops lubricant flow when throttle released.

HM126 anniversary edition sawmill

The sawyer favourite HM126 Portable Sawmill just got even better. Cut your own lumber for cabins, decks, siding and more. Perfect for hobby sawyers, entrepreneurs or seasoned woodworkers. The HM126 can cut 26″ (66cm) diameter logs, producing boards up to 24” (61cm) wide and up to 10’ 5” (3.1m) in length. Constructed using a 4 post saw head design with a tubular back beam that provides the ultimate rigidity ensuring smooth and accurate cuts. The head moves up and down along galvanized steel posts via an easy to turn hand crank system. Powered by a reliable 9.5HP or 14HP 4-cycle Kohler gas engine options. The HM126 is loaded with new and innovative features like the automatic blade lubricant system that activates when the throttle is engaged and the RapidChange blade system for quick and tool-less blade changes. The HM126 portable sawmill is accurate, smooth and engineered to be the best value in its class.

efficient power

Powered by a reliable 9.5HP or 14HP recoil start 4-cycle Kohler gas/petrol engine. Featuring a slant cylinder design with a cast iron cylinder bore and an overhead valve for easy access. The Quad-Clean 4-stage air filtration system ensures only clean air enters the engine for maximum power and life of the engine. Attached to the engine is an industrial centrifugal clutch system for easy gas-and-go operation. Backed by a 3-year Kohler commercial warranty.

rigid track system

The HM126 sawmill head rolls along rigid 2.5″ x 4″ (63mm x 101mm) “L” channel which is cross supported with heavy-duty 3″ x 6″ (76mm x 152mm) rectangle tube. These cross supports ensure the weight of the log is dispersed over a large bearing surface to avoid marking the log with indentation and provide additional rigidity to the track system. The track also features a simple adjustable quick lock log clamp to securely hold the log while milling. The track itself consists of two 6’ 5” (1.95m) sections allowing for 10’ 5” (3.1m) log lengths. Additional 6’ 5” (1.95m) tracks may be attached to accommodate logs of any length.

precision Cutting

The mill is capable of cutting 26-inch diameter logs up to 10-feet long. Additional track sections are available in 6-foot increments. Capable of squaring cants at 19-inches or skimming veneers at as thin as1/16 of an inch. The HM126 will cut within 1-inch of the deck ensuring you maximize your usable board foot output.

auto locking Blades

Super precise and consistent control. Simply push the handle in and rotate through 16 locking locations to move the sawhead up or down. Coupled with an acme lead screw, you’ll get super accurate adjustments within 1/64” accuracy. Traditional magnetic log scale rulers are also included to line up your cuts.

Keep the guides close to the wood being cut and reduce blade wander. The Auto Locking Adjustable Blade Guide is constructed using stainless steel v-rollers and a matched machined aluminum arm making it a premium system over traditional adjustable blade guides. It comes standard on the 14HP HM126 and can be purchased as an optional accessory with the 9.5HP model.

Gas Go Operation: The throttle handle engages the engine RPM, saw blade and auto lube system simultaneously. This system makes the process of cutting lumber quick and efficient and reduces the number of steps required by the operator. The throttle handle position can also be adjusted for comfort depending on track height.

rapidchange blade system

Exclusive to Woodland Mills is the RapidChange blade system. This is a tool-less approach for changing blades quickly and reduces the amount of blade tracking adjustments between blade changes. A stack of Belleville washers act as a shock absorber for the blade while giving consistent blade tension in all temperatures ensuring less stress on your blades.

The HM126 utilizes 1.25″ x 144″ x 0.042″ (32mm x 3660mm x 1.0mm) Lenox hardened tipped blades which are available through Woodland Mills. Blade kerf is kept to a minimum at just.080″ (2mm) to maximize the most amount of lumber per log.

go mobile with woodlander

Move your HM126 between locations with the Woodlander trailer. Packaged together, the HM126 Woodlander trailer provides you with mobility to bring the sawmill to different work sites or easily move into storage. Levelling jacks are provided so you can quickly level the trailer and tracks when deployed.

NEW! HM122 Portable Sawmill

The Woodland Mills HM122 is an entry-level portable sawmill packed full of impressive features while maintaining a budget-friendly price. Designed for hobby sawyers looking for an economical solution to mill lumber. The HM122 Anniversary Edition adds new features like the RapidChange blade system, auto lube, an operation hour meter, wider cut capability and much more.

The Facts

• 7.0 or 9.5 HP Kohler gas engine
• 22″ log diameter capability
• 20″ maximum board width
• 10′ 4″ log lengths
• 6′ 5″ track extensions available
• 16″ cast iron Band wheels
• 26″ track width
• 10L/2.6 Gal auto lubrication tank
• Rapidchange blade system
• Hand crank system to raise and lower the head with very little effort
• Powder coated and galvanized steel finishes
• Industrial centrifugal clutch system
• levelling feet and hour meter
• Easy to use screw style log clamp
• Gas Go Operation with adjustable throttle handle position

See below for more details, features, specifications and warranty.

Click on the images below to see a larger version.

NOTE: Additional shipping charges may be applicable in some areas. Please inquire prior to ordering.

Special Offer: A minimum discount (more depending on total package) of 85.00 is offered for any Woodland Mill purchase paid by cash, wire transfer, Etransfer, or direct cash deposit to our account at any branch of Royal Bank of Canada ( bank details provided).

HM122 with 9.5 HP Sawmill 399.00 shipping to most locations in Canada. Please note that if you pick up your bandsaw mill at our Prince George, BC location, you still pay 249 inbound factory feight as that is what we pay to bring a bulk shipment of bandsaw mills into Prince George from the factory.

hm122 anniversary edition sawmill

The Woodland Mills HM122 Portable Sawmill is designed for hobby sawyers looking for an economical solution to mill lumber. The HM122 can cut 22” (55cm) diameter logs, producing boards up to 20” (51cm) wide and up to 10’ 4” (3.1m) in length. Constructed using a 4-post head design with a tubular back beam that provides the ultimate rigidity, ensuring smooth and accurate cuts. The head moves up and down along galvanized steel posts via an easy to turn hand crank system. Powered by a reliable 7.0 HP or 9.5 HP 4-cycle Kohler gas engine. The HM122 is loaded with new and innovative features like the automatic blade lubricant system that activates when the throttle is engaged and the RapidChange blade system for quick and tool-less blade changes. The highly reviewed HM122 continues to be the best-valued sawmill in its class.

efficient Power

Powered by a reliable 7.0HP or 9.5HP 4-cycle Kohler gas/petrol engine. The HM122 features a slant cylinder design, with a cast iron cylinder bore and an overhead valve for easy access. The Quad-Clean 4-stage air filtration system ensures only clean air enters the engine for maximum power and life of the engine. Attached to the engine is an industrial centrifugal clutch system for easy gas-and-go operation. Backed by a 3-year Kohler commercial warranty.

Precision Cutting

The HM122 can cut 22″ (55cm) diameter logs and mill live edge boards at up to 20″ (51cm) wide. Cut logs 10’ 4” (3.1m) long with the standard track configuration or unlock unlimited length potential with optional 6’ 5” (1.95m) track extensions. It can also skim veneers as thin as 1/16″ (1.6mm). The HM122 will cut within 1″ (25mm) of the deck ensuring that you maximize your usable board foot output.

gas go operation

The throttle handle engages the engine RPM, saw blade and auto lube system simultaneously. This system makes the process of cutting lumber quick and efficient and reduces the number of steps required by the operator. The throttle handle position can also be adjusted for comfort depending on track height.

rapidchange blade system

Exclusive to Woodland Mills is the RapidChange blade system. This is a tool-less approach for changing blades quickly and reduces the need for blade tracking adjustments between blade changes. A stack of Belleville washers act as a shock absorber for the blade while giving consistent blade tension in all temperatures ensuring less stress on your blades.

The HM122 utilizes 1.25″ x 125″ x 0.042″ (32mm x 3.175m x 1.0mm) hardened tipped blades which are available through Woodland Mills. Blade kerf is kept to a minimum at just.080″ (2mm) to maximize the most amount of lumber per log.

rigid Track System

The HM122 sawmill head rolls along a rigid 2 3/8″ x 2.5″ (6cm x 6cm) machined “L” channel which is cross supported with heavy-duty 2 3/8″ x 4 3/4″ (6cm x 12cm) rectangle log bunks. These cross supports ensure the weight of the log is dispersed over a large bearing surface to avoid marking the log with indentation and provide additional rigidity to the track system. The track features an easy to use screw style log clamp to securely hold the log while milling and consists of two 6’ 5” (1.95m) sections allowing for 10’ 4” (3.1m) log lengths. Additional 6’ 5” (1.95m) tracks may be attached to accommodate logs of any length. The track comes with 12 levelling legs with up to 4” (10cm) of adjustment.

Warranty

The sawmill is covered with a 2 year warranty against manufacturer’s defect and excludes wearing parts (belts, blades bearings). The Kohler engine is covered by a 3 year commercial warranty which is honoured through any Kohler small engine dealer.

Sawmill From 12″ Bandsaw and a Mower

This will be my first Instructable, seems I never take a picture until the project is done ;-(

PLEASE comment and ask questions of you have them.

I have a camp property 29 miles from the edge of civilization, and therefore need to use my resources instead of driving back and forth trying to get just about anything. You plan ahead before going. Not enough beer? 58 miles. No propane? 58 miles. you get the idea. It gets worse when you have to hook up the trailer or take the big truck because you need more lumber to make some small project or build a barn. So, having access to plenty of logs, I need to make my own lumber. I have seen a zillion ways to make a Band saw mill, but why not use something that has almost everything I need instead of building from scratch? The saw I am going to hack is a Craftsman 12″ Band saw. That means the wheels holding the belt are 12″. It already has all of the rollers, alignment adjustments, pulleys, etc. we’ll need. I’ll also be tweaking them a little for strength and longevity. I will be converting to a gas engine, so we’ll remove the electrical equipment and save for another project.

The truth? I’m cheap. Well, maybe frugal. Wife says nuts (and brilliant depending on when you ask her). Still need a mill though. My best friends? Junk shops, junkyards, yard sales. The whole premise of our property is to do almost everything ourselves; learning about and understanding every phase of a project and the equipment, for as little money as possible to create a nice working farm. We are proof that you can do it while still staying out of debt. I found an almost free double wide home that needed work for a temporary camp while I build my barn and living quarters at one end of it, a backhoe and grade tractor, as well as a dump truck all for very little money. I could purchase a new mill for a few thousand, use someone else’s design for a couple thousand, or design and build my own for a few hundred bucks. So:

Lets see: a workshop Band saw is already. a Band saw, so.

An adjustable carriage to hold the saw; able to raise and lower to cut different size boards.

Somehow attach the gasoline engine to run it.

A handle system for control and safety.

Step 1: Gather a Bunch of Stuff

I purchased a used 12″ Band saw from a yard sale for 100.00. but remember, we aren’t using the electrical so if it doesn’t work you can find cheaper ones. just make sure the wheels and stuff are good, otherwise you’ll spend money fixing before you ever use it!

I found 2 used end braces for commercial shelving 16′ for free (if it’s free it’s for me) Scavenging skills are definitely handy!

I have a 13hp Honda 2 cylinder water cooled engine from a lawn mower I will tear apart. it’s a 2 cylinder, electric start, and amazingly quiet. The mower is going to supply a bunch of parts, an engagement system for the Band, throttle and electrical controls, a ready made engine cowl (way cool for a saw!) and maybe even a drive system for the carriage. I bought it for 50 bucks because it needed a starter that from Honda is EXPENSIVE! (I found a used one on e-bay for 40 bucks)

About a bazillion feet of good stout angle iron, and some lighter duty for bracing, etc.

Various pulleys, nuts, bolts, etc. which I will describe as I go; remember your build will be unique so be ready to “junkyard dog it” a little

A good friend with talents and a strong back 😉 (Mine was my buddy Scotty and I can’t thank him enough for his help).

Step 2: Tools and Equipment

I’m not going to list all of the tools I use, this thing would be 40 pages! You can never have enough tools, but here’s a start

Hand tools. ALL OF THEM! Oh, and you’re probably going to borrow a few also.

Welder. I use my MIller 200 wire feed, but a good stick welder is fine.

Gloves, safety glasses etc so you don’t have to use said first aid kit. safety first (or second if you like trips to the E.R. Band aids, loss of sight, etc.)

Step 3: Overview of Build

Here I go. A wood working Band saw is a vertical saw and although I could move the log to make it work, I need to turn it on its side.

I’ll get rid of all of the table and stand stuff.

The actual working space is only about 7″, so I’ll have to widen that to fit a fairly good sized log, say 16-18″, the depth of cut is fine at 12″ so I could in theory cut a 12X12. Here in Florida I don’t get logs or poles larger than that, so why go bigger.

Once lengthened, I’ll go to a larger blade designed for lumber cutting, not finish work.

I’m going to have to figure out how to mount the gas engine. The reason I cannot use the electric motor is twofold. One, I am off the grid and why run a gas engine on a generator to power it. Two, my blade is much “badder” than the finer one, the teeth will be almost an inch apart and huge! the original 3/4 horsepower motor would just give up.

Build a log mount/roll set up for leveling, holding steady, as well as assisting in turning the log.

Build a cradle for the saw which will roll on the rails and be designed to raise and lower the saw.

Mount it on something or add an axle so we can move it around if I so decide.

Step 4: Scrounging Tips and Build Tricks

Your local lawn mower shop is a great place to look for small engines. Although you can buy Chinese clones from places like Harbor Freight, once you get above 6-7 HP they get expensive. Many riding mowers are scrapped because the deck rots, but still have a perfect 10-20 HP engine. They are electric start, and can be bought for next to nothing. Even if they are horizontal shaft instead of vertical, you can make one work. Most shops have a lot more than they can stand; be nice, smile, wear your oldest clothes and look needy! While you’re there, ask if you can look through their old mowers, you may see a pulley, lever, or who knows what. Remember to write down makes, model numbers and any other information you can from your donors though; it will help down the road if you need a replacement part.

Yard sales, local Craigslist ads, even pages have great deals. You won’t think your wasting your time when you find the deal of the week!

When trying to keep a box tubing rail straight when extending, cut only opposite corners first, then clamp angle iron and weld to each of those corners on one side only! Then, wiggle your blade through the slot and finish cutting the other sides. This acts like a jig when you cut through. When you finish weld, remember warpage. Weld opposite corners a little at a time to reduce it.

A great source of 1″ angle iron is old bed frames. The old ones were made of angle iron. Newer ones are just stamped tin.

Remember everywhere you look during your build you may see a solution for a problem you’ve been fighting. While writing this, I came up with the wheel idea for the rail system.

I’ve seen a bunch of Instructables and YouTube videos that are filmed after the build, and they have had to cut, modify, re-design to finish. Mock up, tack, lay it all out BEFORE you weld it all up. Think ahead, it will save you headaches later.

I am cutting lumber here. If you find pieces of junk laying around that will work, remember they may wear out, break or destroy something else. I want all of this to be easily and rapidly repairable. All of the parts I acquire are readily available and easy to repair. Don’t get some old junk, work your butt off building it, abuse it and then have to redesign the whole contraption later to fix it. If you start with a shoddy set-up, you can’t expect it to live!

Step 5: The Saw and Mower Hack

My first step is to hack up a perfectly good saw, which in my opinion is much better than jumping from a perfectly good airplane for fun or getting slapped in the face with a dead fish.

I’ll remove the electric motor, blade and the wiring as we are going gas.

I’ll leave it on the base because it is heavy, and to make it easier to plan cut for extension parts.

As you can see, using an existing saw comes with many advantages. The wheels are perfectly sized and carry sealed bearings, it has the alignment adjusters already designed and even has a blade tension adjuster with a gauge. Plus, it has an adjustable blade guide, so when cutting smaller boards you can close up the blade exposed length making your cut more accurate.

When you plan this part, plan your overall cutting area, as well as how your guide will move, how much “meat” you have to attach your extension to, and then sit and rethink it all 10 times before you chop it up. As you can see from the picture, I didn’t use my own tip #3 from the previous page. That was because I have a metal cutting Band saw. I cut it after making sure the tube was straight and chopped away! This particular saw has a box tube as its “backbone”. The size of the tubing is an odd one, not available so I just used a slightly smaller piece I had and then added angle iron on the outside for added strength.

Because I used an existing saw with a spec tag on it, once I extended it 12″ it was easy to go on line and order blades. I just added the 12″ we extended (times 2) and ordered blades from Spectrum Supply:

Length. Feet: 9. Inch: 5- 1/2″Width x Thickness x TPI: 1″ x 0.035 x 1.3T

These blades are reasonably priced (about 15 bucks each) and can be made in any length you need, and with a variety of configurations.

I also have to cut up a mower; be sure to have a drink and think this over for a while first, you don’t want to cut it up wrong and then try to figure out how to fix your screw up. As yours will probably be different, I won’t go into a lot of detail on the mower. You will see in the next steps how I cut and used a lot of it.

Step 6: The Rail System

My rail setup will consist of a 16′ section of shelving support. These are the type the large box stores use. The ends are reinforced, and very strong. They are also already square, so no worry about tracking to start. I’m primarily going to be cutting wall studs, 2×4’s, 2×6’s, 2×8’s, some 4×4’s for fencing, and just maybe 6×6’s for barn posts. All of them will usually be less than 12′. My one section will allow a cut that long, but I want the ability to cut to 16′ so I’ll make an attachable extension for longer boards.

As I made no modifications, I failed to take a good picture of the actual rail. It is; as you will see a standard end for commercial shelving. The reason I chose it was because it was free and luck had it that it had a channel that was facing out, thus allowing me to place a wheel on top and a guide wheel in the slot for straighter tracking.

Well, sometimes even the best plans change. A local boat dealer was modifying their building and I scored I-beams that will be much stronger and also longer. So, hundreds of dollars worth of I-beam that was going to the scrap yard is just better. Because the logs I will be cutting are so heavy, I was planning on reinforcing my rails, but now I can use these I-beams and not have to. Also, they are longer, so I won’t have to make extensions.

Step 7: The Cradle

Here is where you have to play around with your design a little. Or a lot. Many beers were found empty before the final ideas started to gel. Here we go:

Your cradle is going to carry everything, the engine, fuel and water tanks, battery and of course the actual saw. That adds up to a bunch of weight. I have seen a bunch of home built saws using two lifts, or a cable and pulleys, but remember the weight you have to move? Well four is better than two. I chose to use trailer jacks, with a 17″ lift, so if the saw weighs 300 pounds each jack is only lifting 75. less wear and much easier to turn the handle. I purchased these new for about 70 bucks each, because I wanted them identical so that they moved the same amount with each revolution of the handle. Plus as they are going to be welded on I didn’t want used ones that would wear out too soon. These are from Tractor Supply, and have a 17″ vertical travel. I am going to have one handle control all four jacks, attached together with chains. This way all will move at the same rate and maintain level. For wheels to ride on the cradle, I searched for strong wheels that could take a beating, but most of the wheels I saw with brackets and bearings were ridiculously priced for the job. Here is where a little shopping is important. I found solid hard wheels at my local lawnmower shop for 8 bucks a piece; just deck wheels for a riding mower! I then chucked them up in my lathe and cut a flat surface to true them so they glide on the rail smoothly just in case they weren’t perfectly round. I then took a piece of 3″ angle iron and welded two nuts on it, then slid the bolt through the wheel and ta da! Not only did that work for the vertical wheel, but it also worked for the guide wheel and pad for the jacks! Be sure to keep the shaft greased and no problem! Another beer! The guide wheels are just inexpensive 4″ wheels with brackets from Tractor supply, remember they carry no weight so they don’t have to be crazy expensive ones.

The actual cradle has to be strong, but also reasonably narrow so as not to use up too much of the rail. I decided to mock the saw on blocks on top of the rail and see where it sat. As you can see in the picture, the cradle in its first mock up is on the rails, with one set of jacks in place. We also installed a temporary brace at the front of 2×2 box just to keep square.

Step 8: Fitting Everything on the Cradle

OK, I have a cradle that rolls, a saw laid on its side. now I have to mate them and start to figure travel height, fitment of everything. I started with milk cartons and boards to get the saw level, then I tacked the engine in place to plan drive belt and jack clearances.

You must make sure your saw is level at all times during your build BOTH WAYS (side to side and fore and aft), or you will have to adjust it later somehow. If it is not, your blade will either climb out on your cut (up) or down, thus you will never have a true board. Easier now than trying out how to change it later. Yes, you can level with the jacks, but then down or all the way up they will not match, so travel length will be affected.

I used thick wall pipe to attach front and rear jacks making sure there was room for chain and gear clearance.

Now that the jacks are in place, I need to attach the chain drive between them to raise and lower the assembly. I’m doing my best to over build the entire machine for longevity. so I purchased #40 chain at Tractor Supply and gears, gear hubs all too heavy duty, but should last a long time. I purchased the chain in bulk, two 10′ rolls, and bought a chain breaker also to make it easier to size them. I used master links to connect the ends once cut to length for each section.I removed the handles from the jacks, which is where the hubs will fit. I slid the gear on for the drive jack, and on the other three slid two on spaced for chains to clear. I then welded the gears to the hubs and slid on the jacks. They are held on by set screws. After they were all in place, I welded the handle assembly on top of the drive jack. After the first turn, I realized the crank was either too short or just too hard, so I cut the mower steering shaft, and removed the handle, replacing it with the steering wheel. What a difference and once again used another part from the mower! I also used the old bag attachment bracket from the mower for our push handle.

Note. It is easier to make the chains up prior to mounting jacks, as if you are 1/4″ off the chain can be too loose or so tight you cannot turn the handle. OOOps! Thankfully, I was able to cut the tacks and adjust the jack a little to tighten chain. Because there is very little stress on the chains, stretch should not be a problem, if so I can adjust by taking out a half link is needed.

Notice one picture with dash, one with tank. mocking it over and over. or is it mocking me?I still have controls and more to add. The engine sits with the exhaust facing rearward, in the middle of the saw, so I will put the fuel tank as far outboard as I can. I will put the battery next to that, with the control panel in the middle area so I can use the existing wiring harnesses and control cables for throttle and clutch. I am even going to use the mower cowl for sound deadening and it will look cool too. I made a mount for the fuel tank from scrap bed frame angle iron and used the mower battery tray by just adding a scrap of box tube to weld it to saw frame. For both comfort for the operator and safety, I added a 3/4″ piece of conduit for an exhaust extension, diverting down and away from the control area.

Step 9: Engine Controls, Pulleys Turning

My mock up allows me to adjust distances, etc. so I can hopefully use the original engine and clutch controls. The clutch and throttle are controlled by a cable, so I really don’t want to search for aftermarket ones. I moved the engine cradle close enough that I can use both factory cables, once again making replacement easy. Because the engine is facing the opposite way from its original configuration with the controls, I did have to extend the wiring harness. Don’t be afraid if you have to do this. There were 7 wires, all color coded, so after I removed the electrical tape, I cut them and just spliced in a couple feet so everything would reach. You can do this one wire at a time if you are afraid you’ll get the connections wrong. Because this was a riding mower, if you were not seated, the blades would not engage. So, I easily converted the electrical seat switch to a kill switch. I used a boat kill switch connected to a tether so you can attach to yourself. In the event you trip, or need to walk around the saw, if you go too far away from the controls or close to the blade the entire saw will shut off. SAFETY FIRST.

OK, so I’m going to have to make a system of belts, pulleys and bearings to convert engine motion to move the blade. I removed the original pulley from the electric motor. I then took measurements from the motor to figure out depth through the hole in saw housing.

I wanted this part to be strong so I opted for 3/4″ pillow blocks. I machined the end of the bar stock down to fit the original drive pulley off the motor. We then tacked a piece of angle iron to the housing once we had the approximate alignment of the belt inside.Once we had that in place, I purchased a pulley that would allow my blade to move at the right speed with plenty of throttle adjustment. I want my blade to run at about 4000 feet per minute (yup, 45 mph!) As the electric motor ran 1740 rpm and my mower engine can run 3600, I reduced my rpm to around 2000 and went with a pulley that will turn the pulley inside at 1740 easily which is 3000 fpm and I can adjust throttle up to find my sweet spot for different wood densities. Mower engines are throttle adjustable governed, so whatever rpm I choose the governor can keep it there unless load becomes to much to compensate for. The old belt from the mower was cut to length so I could go to the mower shop and buy the perfect length belt. A simple tensioner from the mower deck set the tension.

As you can see, I tried different placement for controls and failed at first. mock up is invaluable!

Step 10: Bringing It All Together

This could go on for ten more steps, but your design will be different so I’ll jump forward some.

It’s amazing that I could use so much of the mower and the saw, and although it looks complicated, it actually keeps it quite simple. The mower supplied the tank for the coolant/ lubricant, the controls and electrical, the engine, and cowl. The saw had all of the bits I would have to otherwise engineer from scratch and both are well known brands with replacement parts readily available from the manufacturers. This means almost everything on this saw can be bought simply as replacements, instead of having to make a new whatever it is if something fails.

I added a small air compressor I had from a set of air horns to blow off the sawdust and with that included the coolant connected with a “Y” so air forces coolant, under pressure to cool and clean blade at the same time sort of like a mini pressure washer. The coolant flow is adjusted with a simple valve in the line from the tank.

I set up a temporary log cradle under the saw, and threw a 10″ power pole 6′ long on it.

My first test cut tried to climb out of the log, which was caused by interference when I aligned the blade. I found out how sensitive the blades are to metal parts. in ten seconds the kerf was gone. Thankfully I bought more than one blade, so lesson learned. Ya need some clearance, Clarence! The interference took the kerf out of my blade in less than ten seconds. After changing the blade and re-adjusting the tracking, I had success, my first cut perfect flat, and my second EVER 9/64″ thick (that’s thinner than the diameter of a pencil) 6′ long. Less than a quarter inch thick from a bandsaw and a mower. The accuracy is amazing, performance flawless. and for less than a good sized TV costs!

My final rail system will be in another instructable.

My total cost is less than 750.00, not bad for a strong, easily repaired sawmill.

Please note; I could not have done this without the help of a great friend Scotty, whose help mocking up as well as heavy lifting made the project fun.

Hope you liked my first instructable! Please be kind, and vote for me! I don’t know if I am able to fix typos, or anything else after I post. I’ll let you know in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев!

Take wood milling to the next level with one of these high-performance tools.

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

Sooner or later, homesteaders and folks who regularly convert trees into usable (and valuable) lumber may wish to own a portable sawmill. These devices consist of a track that clamps onto a log, allowing the user to make straight cuts accurately. While chainsaw mills are a cost-effective option for modest-size logs and low production, serious sawing demands a step up in scale.

Fortunately, there are plenty of high-performance machines to choose from and a wide variety of specifications to suit different needs. Those new to these types of sawmills should learn which features provide real value. Our concise look at the best portable sawmills currently available will help buyers find the right solution.

How We Chose the Best Portable Sawmills

I have considerable experience using chainsaws and with small-scale milling, so although these portable wood mills are larger and more powerful, I do have a thorough understanding of the engineering.

To support my own knowledge, the Bob Vila team researched all the leading brands and the specifications of machines they offer. We considered mobility, cutting capacities, and cost. We also compared results from other reputable portable sawmill reviews.

Rather than simply comparing similar tools, we aimed to provide examples of the best portable sawmills at various levels of productivity. In doing so, we’ve discovered products for a range of users, from small homesteaders to full-time logging professionals.

TimberKing 1220CRZ Portable Sawmill

When looking into the manufacturer of the best portable sawmill, we found the TimberKing brand consistently ranked highly in independent reviews and on homesteader websites. The company has been making portable sawmills since 1929, and it has an unrivaled reputation for performance and durability.

Unlike cheap portable sawmills that need to be carried to and from a site, the TimberKing 1220CRZ is fully mobile with pneumatic tires and standard vehicle hookup. The immensely strong frame is made from 2×6 box beam steel. It is heavily cross braced to resist the flex under load. The saw head is supported by four posts, further adding to the impressive rigidity that ensures accurate cutting. Saw drive comes from a powerful and very reliable 23-horsepower v-twin motor that has push-button electric starting.

The TimberKing 1220CRZ takes logs up to 33 inches in diameter and over 17 feet long. Board thickness is set with a hand crank, with a depth gauge that allows remarkably precise cutting to 1/32 inch. Feed is also by hand crank. It takes a little practice to produce consistently smooth cuts, and it can be tiring when working all day, but it is far less expensive than hydraulic models.

• Maximum log diameter: 33 inches
• Maximum log length: 17 feet, 9 inches
• Power unit: 23-horsepower V-twin with electric start
• A 4-post head provides rigid saw support for consistently accurate cutting
• The heavy-duty cutting deck resists flex and offers terrific durability
• The American-made V-twin engine is both powerful and reliable

Get the TimberKing portable sawmill at TimberKing.

Other Product Recommendations

The following machines are also excellent and, depending on individual requirements, deserve further investigation.

Best Bang for the Buck: Sawyer Portable Sawmill

With a maximum log diameter of 21 inches, this Sawyer is a small portable sawmill at a budget price. Assembly is required.

Available at Hud-son.

Best Mid-Range: Norwood LumberMate LM30

This model has a maximum log diameter of 30 inches and comes with a wide choice of power units and custom add-ons.

Available at Norwood Sawmills.

Best Hydraulic Loading: Wood-Mizer LT35

Large diameter logs can be very heavy, especially hardwoods like oak. This model makes work easier with hydraulic lifting of logs up to 32 inches across.

Available at Wood-Mizer.

Best Chainsaw Mill: Granberg Alaskan Mark IV

Chainsaw mills remain a budget-friendly option for those with modest needs, and the highly rated Granberg can accept chainsaws with bars of up to 36 inches.

Available at Amazon.

FAQs

Beyond trying to decide on the best portable sawmill for one’s needs, a number of questions associated with machine operation and productivity crop up regularly. The following provides clear, concise answers.

Q. Is it cheaper to mill your own lumber?

There’s no easy answer to this question. Even comparatively cheap portable sawmills demand a significant investment (see below). If you just need a couple dozen 2x4s for a project, it will probably be cost effective to buy them at your local big box DIY store or lumber yard.

On the other hand, if you regularly fell your own trees or have access to a supply of whole logs, owning a portable sawmilling machine can not only save a lot of money over time, but also gives complete control over lumber quality. Buying a used portable sawmill can be a cost-saving option, but expertise is required to assess the condition of these machines. It’s not something we would recommend to novices.

Q. How much does a portable sawmill cost?

The cost of a portable sawmill varies considerably. The above article includes some excellent examples from across much of the price range. High-quality entry-level portable sawmills start at around 2,500 for self-assembly models or somewhere over 3,000 assembled. At the other end of the scale, those with big capacities and hydraulic log lifters can top 50,000.

Q.How long do the blades last on a portable sawmill?

Leading portable sawmill brand Wood-Mizer recommends changing blades for fresh ones every 1½ hours. A random sample of users gave figures of three to six blade changes per day. Much depends on the wood being milled, however. Softwoods like pine saw much more easily than oak, for example.

Running a blade when blunt is false economy, as it’s one of the main causes of blade breakage. Sharpening services are widely available, or you could do it yourself using a jig and a rotary tool.

Q. How long should logs dry before sawing?

Logs should be sawed (milled) as soon as possible after felling. There is no advantage in leaving them on the ground. In fact, doing so might attract beetles and fungi that cause damage. Once milled, lumber requires time to dry properly: The general rule is 1 year per inch of board thickness. Commercial operations often use large drying sheds (called kilns) to speed up the process.

Why Trust Bob Vila

Bob Vila has been America’s Handyman since 1979. As the host of beloved and groundbreaking TV series including “This Old House” and “Bob Vila’s Home Again,” he popularized and became synonymous with “do-it-yourself” home improvement.

Tools and machinery specialist Bob Beacham has been writing consumer advice articles for national publications for more than a decade. He comes from a farming background, is a qualified mechanical engineer, and ran his own woodshop for a decade. He has a reputation for providing information that is thorough yet easy to understand.