A tool for stripping a cable
Select tool for stripping wires
What is the best way to strip wires and what tool to use? It is always safer and more convenient to carry out any electrical wiring work with tools specifically designed for this purpose. However, even a professional electrician can have difficulty selecting the right tool for stripping wires. Often at home one tries to remove insulation with an ordinary sharp blade, but it often leads to cable damage. Better tools, properly matched to the type of wire, help maintain quality and make the procedure easier.
Strip wiring. peculiarities of using a special tool
Not only the quality of electricity, but also the safety of the home will depend on how properly the connection of the elements of electrical wiring will be made. That’s why it’s extremely important to use special wire strippers when performing electrical work.
The most important tool you can use is a screwdriver:
- Damage to the metal conductive core or hairs, which will inevitably result in a reduction of the cross-sectional area. It can break the wire and break the circuit, and in the worst case it can lead to heat and fire.
- The formation of hidden defects, which will later lead to a broken core when bent.
- Reduced strength of the conductor due to defects in the structure.
- Breakage of side hairs in multicore cables.
- The surface of a conductor is clogged with remnants of insulation material.
In addition, stripping electrical insulation sheathing with a special tool avoids injury to the installer himself, and improves the quality and productivity of the job. This is especially true when a large number of connections are made, such as when installing wiring in a new home.
Wire stripping tools (strippers)
I have a few strippers, so I thought I’d do a little review:
The oldest and most proven option, used by all electricians since ancient times, is these pliers for stripping the insulation:
The principle of operation is very simple. the pliers are adjusted to the necessary conductor diameter with a screw (with a small margin so as not to scratch the conductor itself during stripping), the V-shaped blades are around the wire, you can also twist the pliers around the wire (to cut the insulation in a circle):
Then you just pull the pliers toward you and the insulation comes off easily:
These pliers are available with non-insulated handles (cheaper) and with insulated handles (red or red and yellow handles, inscriptions that there is insulation up to 1000V).
I have a model with insulated handles, and this is both my easiest and most expensive at the same time, whether 1200r or 1400r it cost (given that the same look can be found and for 600 or even 300 rubles).
That’s because it’s made in Germany, each one is tested in a live bath. And of course the hardness of the steel and the sharpening is also very good.
Disadvantages. if you work with different diameters of wire, then you always need to either readjust the screw, or to have a few of these pliers and get mixed up in them. In addition, you can not adjust the stripping length.
Its advantages are reliability, indestructibility, possibility of stripping in hard-to-reach places, where other strippers cannot reach, and it is the only stripper I know, which can be used under voltage.
It helped me out a lot when I had a bad terminal burn out at my summer house (copper and aluminum wire bonds had oxidized) and the electrician had just quit his job. I climbed up the ladder myself, and using these insulated pliers, as well as insulated pliers, wire cutters and a screwdriver, was able to bite off, clean and restore the contact, and be with the lights until the arrival of a real electrician. )
This is my first and oldest stripper, of course, this type is already outdated and inconvenient compared to the modern ones.
And since a good tool of this type, made of excellent steel with perfectly sharpened blades costs as automatic (and a bad one will cut and tear the wire badly), I would not buy such a tool now.
Here is another stripper, it is designed especially for taking the EXTERNAL sheath off of round cables:
Very good and handy tool, especially for cable NYM, the only thing they come in two kinds. with an additional knife (covered with a white translucent cap in the photo) and without it. I think this additional blade is absolutely unnecessary, I think the days of knives cutting wires are gone, so it only obstructs the access to hard to reach places, I would rather choose a model without it.
How this stripper works. it has a thin and very sharp blade built in, the release of which is regulated by a screw:
The screw is adjustable so that the blade cuts through the insulation but does not touch the wires in the cable. You put it on the cable, clamp it, twist it around and pull it all the way through, cutting the insulation.
Release the knife carefully so as not to damage the insulation of the conductors and cut only the outer sheath.
I got a small piece of great cable with a bunch of high-grade copper wires:
With this stripper, I easily released them by stripping the insulation:
Now I’m well stocked with wires for radio wiring for a long time! )
Next is my favorite fully automatic modern very accurate stripper with accurate V-blades and adjustable stripping length:
These strippers are available under different brands, I’ve seen them under the brand LUX, Weicon Super, KVT and some more. Before the crisis they cost about 1000 rubles. the golden mean. There are similar looking cheap, black color with black blades. total G, money down the drain. There are similarly designed expensive professional strippers at 3-5 thousand, with a huge service life for those who spend the whole day just stripping wires. there’s no need for that at home.
This stripper works very simply. you set the length of the insulation to be stripped (on many terminals, outlets, switches, etc.п. Write how long to strip for them:
After that, we put the wire inside up to the limiter and in one move remove the insulation. You don’t need to adjust anything except the stripping length.
The only disadvantage is that sometimes the stripped insulation gets stuck in this stripper and you have to take it out. Probably strippers for 4-7 thousand do not have this disadvantage, but it is important only for professional installers, who are stripping wires day and night. )
But it can strip the thinnest and most delicate wires, even stripping them first from the outer sheath, and then the insulation from the wires inside.
There are built-in wire cutters for wire up to 2mm.
This is my favorite stripper, especially good for stranded wires. Perfect for car wiring! Also good for home wiring. And it’s perfect for radio amateurs, because it can strip both jacket and insulation from very thin wires.
Very easy to squeeze handles. much easier than the next stripper I will review.
A very common and far from new stripper design.
What makes it so good that millions choose it??
First of all it’s versatile. it can strip wires of different diameters and automatically adjusts itself.
Secondly, this is the most convenient stripper to work with our popular flat wire of this type:
This is probably the only stripper that can carefully remove the outer insulation from such a wire, as well as remove the insulation from two or three of its wires at once AT ONCE! )
I unfortunately did not have such a wire for demonstration, I had to take what I had.
Usually you strip the insulation off a flat wire with a knife or something like this:
Which is inconvenient, because in the end you get this:
The remnants of the insulation stick out so that they do not interfere, you need to cut them off with wire cutters.
But! If you use the right stripper, it is not necessary! )
This stripper can also strip the insulation from two or three wires at the same time.
Unfortunately, I didn’t have the right three-core wire at hand, but I think the principle is clear:
A very handy stripper for three-core cable. )
As a free bonus, it has pliers and a kind of crimper (crimping tool) for insulated and uninsulated lugs (inconvenient to use, but if you do not have a normal crimper at hand, and need to crimp a lug. it’s salvation). There’s also an awkward stripping length limiter that everyone usually removes right away. )
It’s very good for home wiring.
Although it is less accurate and precise than the previous type of stripper, and has an uncomfortable and bulky limiter, it is much more reliable.
But for hard-to-reach places it is much less convenient than the previous modern type, because it is more bulky and the wire has to be wound on the side, and for car wiring it is also less suitable. Although, of course, compared to the knife and wire cutters, it is heavenly! )
And even though it is claimed to be able to strip quite thin wires (it has a special tweaking screw), it does it very badly and damages the wire. it is not suitable for thin wires, radio amateurs should not buy it.
And here’s what strippers are better to avoid:
Avoid cheap automatic ones with flat blades (modern ones have V-shaped blades, which gives perfect accuracy and precision), unfortunately the photo did not fit in. They’ll probably tear all your wires.
And you need to avoid non-automatic strippers with blades with many holes for fixed wire diameters like these:
First of all, they’re just inconvenient. The second in general is terribly inconvenient in comparison with automatic strippers.
And you don’t know what the diameter of your conductor is. Instead of pressing and stripping without thinking, you have to measure the wire, choose the right hole and still do not make a mistake and insert exactly into it.
And the main thing. there is no precise adjustment to the size of the wire, the dimensions are fixed, and it’s no secret that our sovkovye and cheap Chinese wires often have understated or overstated diameter, and in this case the blade fixed to the reference size will tear the insulation or scratch the conductor.
Insulation stripping tool. Gross 17718 stripper
What any electrician should have for his professional work? Of course these are different tools for work.
Even if an electrician will perfectly know all the theory of electricity, be able to draw up masterful schemes, for 5 seconds to understand why the socket is broken or why the light bulb is not lit, but without tools, he anyway can not fix it all.
Jobs like stripping electrical wires, crimping sleeves to connect wires, measuring the voltage of an outlet. all these things require a good specialized tool.
Stripping wires is one of those procedures for which it is highly desirable to have this special tool. Of course, any normal handyman should have one available.
Even now, many novice electricians have to work with the old-fashioned way of using a knife or blade. But, unfortunately, this technology is long outdated and has its own drawbacks.
The wires get damaged, and the wires themselves get deformed if you don’t use your knife skillfully. In critical cases, when stripping wires is done really badly, the phase and neutral conductors can touch, causing a short.
This can cause a serious accident, up to and including fire and explosion.
To prevent such unpleasant consequences. Engineers have invented a special. Thanks to its use, we significantly increase the overall quality of work on electrical work in the apartment with his hands.
Greatly increase your productivity, by reducing the time spent on stripping wires.
In this article I want to tell about the tool stripper to remove the insulation.
I think everyone should have it, who periodically faces the need to strip wires with their own hands, about professional electricians it is not even worth talking about. just a masthev.
What kind of “beast” is this?? Stripper Gross 17718 in fact. a professional tool, which is used to remove the insulation from the wire. When people ask me something like: “How do I strip cable??
I always answer. buy a stripper and do not suffer. It will simplify your life many times. It makes it easy and straightforward to do your job. In general, there are several types of strippers on the market today:
Automatic multifunctional stripper. Characterized by a large number of different functions in addition to the direct stripping of insulation from wires. For example, it can twist cores, strip them, trim them, and more in the process.
Semi-automatic stripper. Functions almost like the automatic one. After putting the cable on the stripper working area, we press the handles and wires are clamped between the jaws.
The left jaw pinches part of the conductor, and the right jaws cut and slide the insulation to the right. As a result, we can very easily then remove it from the conductor.
The stripper is designed with a special cut length limiter. By means of which we can set and measure the length of the stripped strand of wire. By the way, many stores in the CIS in their product range call this device. pliers for stripping wires (KSI)
A simple stripper looks something like an ordinary side cutter. It has special blades, which have a specific shape with small indentations. They are designed to remove the insulation from electrical wires of different cross sections.
In general, you should remember the tacit rule of electricians, that an important part of quality and safe electrical installation can be called the proper stripping of the insulation from the wire. Without any damage to the conductor strands!
In this article I want to tell you about my experience with the stripping tool from the German company Gross, model 17718. You can safely call it one of my favorite tools in my professional life as an electrician.
In the past, craftsmen coped with stripping wires with a simple construction knife. The problem with this method was that without serious skill, the electrician risked his life, because the device of the knife does not provide any protection from the electric current. In addition, skill was necessary for accurate stripping, and a craftsman who did not have that skill could simply have done a poor job removing the insulation.
The safety mechanism is shockproof and the body of the appliance is designed so that it sits comfortably and securely in your hand. The stripper is easy to handle, even a person with no experience can perform certain work with this versatile machine. The stripper’s teeth are specially designed to peel away the insulation without damaging the conductors.
The main thing to remember is! Before doing any electrical work, it is extremely important to make sure that the power grid is de-energized. Especially when bare wire work is planned. A workman can receive a life-threatening electric shock if he neglects to do so! It is strictly forbidden to work on live conductors!
The potential buyer of this tool should consider that in the people it is more often called a mechanical tool than a manual one. The tool owes its name to its specific characteristics: you must act on the handle mechanically (physically) to clean the cable.
Outwardly, a mechanical stripper resembles simple pliers
The design of both tools is much the same, with a paired handle and teeth on the swivel joint. The differences are in the fact that the stripper is equipped with special grooves, located on the teeth. These notches are necessary for gripping the cable.
The manufacturer indicates the figures of the diameter of connectors in the digital format, with which you should always check before buying, otherwise the user risks to get the device that is not suitable for a particular wire. Also, you need to match the socket pattern of the tool to the specific cable.
The main advantage of the mechanical subtype is multitasking. Even small diameter cables can be cut with these wire cutters. In addition, using the mechanical clippers, it is easy to bundle several lugs into one large cable. Can be used as pliers, although the device is not designed for such purposes (it is worth considering).
The semi-automatic subtype costs an order of magnitude more than the mechanical counterpart, but also has a more extensive functionality. Firstly, the user can easily clean several cables at once, and secondly, no effort is needed in the semi-automatic version, because the tool is equipped with a special design that assumes semi-automatic operation.
The procedure when working with a semi-automatic device
- fixing the required connector (according to the diameter of the cable to be cleaned);
- placing the cable inside the connector;
- easy pulling on the handle and stripping the insulation material.
The user does not have to do anything else. The machine does all the work, and the operator only operates the device. Productivity of works when using a semi-automatic stripper noticeably increases, which explains the popularity of such a tool in professional circles. With all the advantages of a semi-automatic, there are also more advanced cutters, which belong to the automatic category.
Automatic type strippers
Most of the automatic feature is identical to the semiautomatic device, the difference is the versatility of the socket.
The master does not need to pick up the notch of the desired diameter, the automatic stripper is able to adjust the socket to the required caliber
The second difference is in the accuracy of work. No cable faults (except for occasional tool jamming). To effectively remove the protective coating of the wire, it is enough to fix the cable in the device and press the handle, the rest is done by the stripper. The automatic subtype is recommended for novice electricians.
The third advantage is the maximum versatility. the automat is able to work with the smallest caliber of section, without allowing rejects. It is worth considering that different models of the automatic subtype are equipped with different factory settings for the range of diameter selection, so you should make sure that the desired product can work with the required values, otherwise the buyer risks buying an expensive tool that is not useful.
Tools. Wire strippers. tools for stripping wires
The most important thing when stripping wires is not to damage the conductor itself and not to damage the insulation where it should stay. And it is important that it is fast, handy and safe.
The stripper is a tool for stripping wire (wire stripper, stripper).
I have a few strippers, so I decided to do a little review:
The oldest and most proven option, which all electricians have used since ancient times, is these stripping pliers:
The working principle is very simple. with a screw the pliers are adjusted to the necessary conductor diameter (with a small margin so as not to scratch the conductor during stripping), then the wire is gripped, you can twist the pliers around the wire (to cut the insulation in a circle):
Then you just pull the pliers toward you and the insulation comes off easily:
These pliers come with non-insulated handles (cheaper), and they come with insulated handles (red or red and yellow handles, inscription that there is insulation up to 1000V).
I have a model with insulated handles, and this is both my easiest and at the same time the most expensive stripper. whether 1200r or 1400r it cost (while the same look can be found and for 600 and even for 300 rubles).
The thing is that this one is made in Germany, each one is tested in the bathtub under voltage. The Chinese might lie about the insulation, and if it’s low quality and you’re working under current, you could get killed. And of course, the hardness of the steel and the sharpness is very good. you can easily strip the thinnest wires.
Disadvantages. if you work with different wire diameters, you either have to readjust the screw all the time, or have several of these pliers and get tangled in them. Also you can’t set the stripping length.
The advantages are reliability, indestructibility, possibility of stripping in hard-to-reach places, where other strippers can’t reach, and it is the only stripper I know that can work under voltage.
It helped me a lot when a contact at the summer house burned out (twisted copper and aluminum wire), and the electrician of ours quit his job. I climbed up the ladder myself, and using these insulated pliers, as well as insulated pliers, wire cutters and a screwdriver, was able to bite off, strip and restore contact, and be with the light until the real electrician arrived. )
It turns out, that this stripper can stripping the finest wires, which other strippers in this review just tear (diameter of wire with insulation is less than one millimeter)!
Let me remind you that this stripper is the most expensive one in this review and it is made in Germany. probably, it is very carefully made and its cheap analogues are not able to do it, but nevertheless.
Here is another stripper, it is designed especially for stripping EXTERNAL coated cables:
Very good and handy tool, and it is indispensable for NYM type cables!
The only thing is that they come in two kinds. with an additional knife (covered with white translucent cap in the photo) and without it. I think this additional blade is not needed at all, in my opinion days of knives cutting wires are gone, so it just gets in the way, choose the model without it.
How this stripper works. it has a thin and very sharp blade built in, the release of which is regulated by a screw:
The screw is adjustable so that the blade cuts through the insulation but does not touch the wires in the cable. The device is put on the cable, clamped, twisted around, and pulled all the way through, stripping the insulation.
I got a small piece of good cable with a bunch of high-grade copper wires:
With this stripper I easily released them by stripping the insulation:
Now I have the wires for radio wiring for a long time! )
Next is my all-time favorite fully automatic modern stripper with the ability to adjust the length of insulation to be stripped:
These strippers are available under different brands, I’ve seen them under the brand LUX, Weicon Super, KVT and some more. Cost about 1000r 1800r. the golden mean. There are similar looking cheap, black ones with black blades. total crap, money down the drain. There are similarly designed expensive professional machines at 3-5 thousand each, with huge service life for those who spend the whole day just stripping wires and there’s no need for that at home.
The stripper works very simply: you set the stripping length (on many terminals, sockets, switches, etc.) and the wire insulation is stripped.п. They write how long to remove the insulation for them:
After that, we put the wire inside up to the stop and in one move strips the insulation. Nothing but the stripping length needs to be adjusted at all.
The only disadvantage is that sometimes the stripped wire insulation gets stuck in the stripper and you have to take it out. This occurs if you slowly squeeze and unclench the handles, but if you strip with a rapid movement. the insulation immediately flies off and does not get stuck.
Probably, strippers for 4-7 thousand do not have this disadvantage, but it is important only for professional installers who strip wires day and night. )
But it can strip the thinnest and most delicate wires, even stripping the outer jacket first, and then the insulation off the wires inside.
Simple DIY Wire Stripper (for Scrapping)
There are built-in wire cutters for up to 2mm of wire.
It is my favorite stripper, especially good for stranded wires.
Very easy to grip handles. much easier than the next kind of stripper I’ll review.
Very common and not a new stripper design.
What makes it so good that millions choose it?
First versatility. it can strip wires of different diameters, automatically adjusting.
Secondly, it is the most convenient stripper to work with our popular flat wire:
This is probably the only stripper that can accurately remove the outer insulation from such a wire, as well as remove the insulation from two or three of its wires at once AT ONCE! )
Unfortunately, I did not have the VVG wire for demonstration, so I had to take what I had.
Usually you strip flat wire insulation with a knife or something like that:
Which is inconvenient, because the end result is this:
Remains of insulation stick out, so that they do not interfere, you need to cut them off with wire cutters.
But! With the right stripper, this is not required! )
This stripper can also strip the insulation off two or three wires at a time.
Unfortunately I didn’t have a 3-wire wire, but the principle is clear:
Very handy stripper for three-core cable. )
I also really liked it. although at first it seemed to me rough, but this is for thin wires, and electrics for 220 volts, especially flat VVG and the like, it cleans just awesome! )
As a bonus it has a pair of wire cutters and a kind of crimping tool for insulated and non-insulated lugs. It’s uncomfortable to use, but if you do not have a good crimper at hand, and you need to crimp the tip. it’s a salvation.
There is also a length limiter of stripped insulation, which usually is removed at once. )
Like this. If possible I will add the article, I’ll write more about stripper for coaxial cable, about stripper-crimper for telephone and Internet cable, as well as about crimps (tools for crimping cable lugs and sleeves).
I will only say that stranded wires after stripping should not be immediately clamped without preparation under the screw, as it easily destroys the individual wires.
You have to crimp stranded wires with insulated or non-insulated lugs:
You can see the already crimped lug above, in the photo with the first pliers, I just have already reached the limit of photos. )
NShVI (pin insulated lug) such a thing is called, sold everywhere, if one such lug must be clamped two wires, you need to buy lugs with a wider plastic part. NShVI2.
UPDATE: took a video of some strippers showed crimping pliers for sleeves:
Комментарии и мнения владельцев 54
Please advise tools for not often repair of automotive wiring.
Strippers. type LUX and type KVT, good cutters, pliers (well, I have NWS), a set of heat shrink tubing (the best. with an adhesive layer, they gemetize the connection, but they are not easy to buy), auto superzolent 3M Scothc Super33 (it will never fail), for auto-disconnects you need crimps for pins of those connectors (the biggest and the most uncertain expense), the connectors themselves (there are universal very good connectors of Superseal system. search about them and crimps on the drive).
Be sure to have a voltmeter (a good one)! Not Chinese copies of ancient crap, and something like MS8239D or handy as a tester MS8211, or Uni-t, or whatever else is there inexpensive and normal. better ask, read. about choosing a good voltmeter a lot of topics) and clamp meters (not necessarily, but sometimes very useful to watch the current or leakage).
And of course you need nylon ties and a tool for their tightening (KVT does it). You also need a set of spatula and pry bars for trim and gun removal (there are sets in auto stores).
I also used a soft self-adhesive insulation. it is often glued to the wiring harnesses from the factory, so that it does not knock and chafe.
Of course I used screwdrivers with different bits. there are a lot of torxes in cars. And an electric screwdriver with drill bits. A small electric screwdriver will make it much easier to loosen a bunch of screws, for example if you need to do something under the dashboard.
A soldering iron or gas soldering iron is better). Good quality glue pads are also often needed. they can be taped to even clean surfaces, and you can use cable ties to fasten the wires to them. And different size corrugations. costs nothing at the auto store, and when you are installing something new it is always good to protect the wires with the corrugation. The car wire itself is sometimes needed. I do not know where to get it, I dissolve the harness of American wiring. This wire is ideal stripped when heated, even a lighter does not melt, unlike the ubiquitous crap. That means it’s safe. Where to get it. I do not know, but it may have analogues. Also need fuse holders with fuses. for new circuits (put extra lights what. protect them with a fuse!).
Thank you for your detailed reply. You write that you need crimps to fit the pins of the auto connector. They are specific? The usual household ones won’t do?This one for example?www.vseinstrumenti.ru/rucschi/delo_tehniki/417200/
Different pins require different sets of jaws.
I’d better give you some links to more competent people! )
Here are great articles about SupeSeal connectors and crimps for them:
Here is a great article about different crimps:
Wire clippers. type LUX and KVT, good cutters, pliers (well, I have NWS), a set of heat shrink tubing (the best ones are with glue layer, they geminate joint, but they are not easy to buy), automotive super insulating tape 3M Scothc Super33 (it will never fail), for auto-connectors you need crimps for pins of those connectors (the biggest and uncertain expense), the connectors themselves (there are universal very good connectors of Superseal system. search about them and crimps on the drive).
Be sure to have a voltmeter (a good one)! Not Chinese copies of ancient crap, and something like MS8239D or handy as a tester MS8211, or Uni-t, or whatever else is there inexpensive and normal. better ask, read. about the choice of a good voltmeter a lot of topics) and clamp meters (not necessarily, but sometimes very useful to watch the current or leakage).
And of course nowhere without nylon ties and a tool for tightening them (KVT does), as well need a set of spatulas and prying pads to remove the trim and pistons (in auto stores there are sets).
I used a soft self-adhesive insulation. it’s often glued to wiring harnesses to keep it from banging and chafing.
Of course, screwdrivers with different bits. there are a lot of torxes in cars. And an electric screwdriver with drill bits. A small electric screwdriver will make it easy to unscrew a lot of screws if you need to do something under the dashboard for example.
Soldering iron or a gas soldering iron. but it’s better to solder). Good quality glue pads are often needed as well. they can be taped to even clean surfaces and wires can be fastened to them with cable ties. And different size corrugations. they cost a pretty penny at the auto store, and when you buy something new it’s always good to protect the wire with a corrugator. The car wire itself is sometimes needed. I don’t know where to get it, I unraveled a bundle of American wiring. This wire is ideally stripped when heated, even a lighter does not melt, in contrast to the widespread crap. That means it’s safe. I don’t know where to get one, but it may have analogues. Also need fuse holders with fuses. for new circuits (put extra lights what. protect them with a fuse!).
The most useful comment of all that I’ve seen here. Thank you very much!
The most common operation in electrical work is stripping wires of their insulation. If you have to cut multicore cables, the number of such operations can number in the dozens. Can not do without a special tool, with which this operation is performed quickly and accurately. The editorial team of the website “Janashlya” offers a review of “The best strippers for stripping in 2022,” compiled by customer reviews and expert assessment.
Basically, this type of stripper does not differ from the previous one, except for its main advantage. the absence of the requirement to select a suitable socket. Its whole essence is contained in a single socket that fits absolutely any wire diameter.
Unlike the two previous types of the tool presented, the automatic stripper carefully removes the insulation from the wire without damaging the wire itself. Of all the steps required to remove the braid, you only need to put the stripper on the wire and press the handle.
Fortunately, any beginner can handle this type of tool, because the insulation is stripped automatically.
The undoubted advantage of this automatic mode device is its ability to work even with the smallest cross section of wire, as the place of the jaws is present detailed regulation.
The only remark about this device is the setting of his socket under different cross-sections of wires, so this element is able to strip not all types of wires, you should always take into account this parameter in the selection of an automatic stripper.
In addition to all of the above, this type of stripper is also capable of crimping wires by creating a few uniform ones, cut wires as wire cutters and perform the functions of some other tools.
When large amounts of work need to be done, automatic strippers are used to remove the insulation coating. Semi-automatic wire stripper requires no rotation around each element. The built-in mechanism removes the braid from several wires at once. You need to select the hole of the desired diameter, put the conductor and press the handle.
Pliers for stripping
It’s a clamp with a built-in blade. Unplug it and put the cable in the grooves, close it, press the button, and the insulation is stripped. The wire stripper provides a gentle removal of the outer covering, pretreats coaxial cables to fit them into the F-connector. The mechanism removes the sheath in an arbitrary area, cleans single, stranded, flat elements.
Automatic wire stripper
Automatic pliers or stripper simplifies the job of stripping wire. The stripper has one socket and its size is automatically adjusted to the diameter of the cable laid. Available in diameters from 0.2 to 6 mm. This is a multifunctional tool, using it to remove insulation, crimp lugs, cut wire, and twist individual cores into one bundle.
Pliers for wire stripping
Semi-automatic stripper for stripping wires, unlike manual models, have a mechanism that performs the action by pressing a button. There is a type of pliers that removes the braid from a twisted pair.