DIY band saw from brake drums
B 345, Machine for grooving brake drums and discs. HUNGER (GERMANY)
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Machine for grooving brake drums and brake discs for vehicles with a lifting capacity of up to 7.5 tons.
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The HUNGER lathe type B 345 is an inexpensive machine for brake drums and brake discs up to 7.5 tonnes.
An essential design feature is a jack support that can withstand the high load of the clamping frame without the use of additional support.
As a result, brake drums with or without wheels can be clamped unhindered from the front.
The following differences should be noted in particular:
- Power 0.75 kW
- Rotational speed 100 and 200 rpm
- Infinitely variable feed
- Simultaneous precise turning of both surfaces of the brake disc
- Largest wheel diam. 1400 mm
- Largest turning dia. 600 mm
- Smallest turning dia. 150 mm
- Largest turning length dia. 150 mm
- Largest dia. brake discs 420 mm
- Maximum thickness of brake discs 60 mm
- The greatest width of the processed surface of the brake discs 120 mm
- Caliper parallel to the main spindle 155 mm
- support vertical to the main spindle 120 mm
Rotational speed and feed mechanism:
- Main spindle speed B 345 100 and 200 rpm
- Back and side feed 5-30 mm / min
- Total power 0.75 kW
- Voltage 230 V
- AC connection
- Frequency 50 Hz
- Current consumption 16 A
- Protection class IP 54
- Power of each motor
- Main motor spindle 0.75 kW
- According to DIN EN 31201, at a distance of 1 m of the machine surface in free space at the maximum current volume, the measured value at full load is 86 dB (A).
Assembling the desktop
When creating a tape machine for divorcing wood with your own hands, you need to pay attention to its size. The comfortable height of the saw band is chosen depending on the characteristics of the building and the person. The main thing is that the lower and drive pulley, the power unit and a large amount of chips are normally placed in the free space. The shape itself is chosen any, but most users stop at the option of a closed cabinet, which becomes a natural container for sawdust.
At the stage of assembling the desktop for the band saw with your own hands, it is necessary to provide a convenient way to open and place the pallet. this will allow you to conveniently clean the saw.
The table top is installed on the lower support. If its height is small, you will need to create a stand for the entire structure.
Assembling the frame
When assembling the band saw frame, it is better to give preference to hard and sturdy wood species. Otherwise, the final structure will not have the required rigidity and will begin to create vibrations. Individual elements, including the work table, are made of durable plywood, and the stiffeners are additionally reinforced with slats. The most affordable option is to dismantle old furniture.
The first step at home is to draw up drawings, on the basis of which the frame will be assembled. They are created taking into account the height of the working room and the physiological characteristics of the person who will work behind the saw.
Mounting the boom and pulley supports
The most primitive do-it-yourself band saws with a frame made of plywood or logs have a support bar 8×8 cm thick. 2 strong supports are attached to it, which will hold the pulleys. It is advisable for band saws to create supports of strong materials, including plywood with a rigid core.
The distance between them is selected in such a way that the processed log can be placed there. Experts recommend making a small gap to prevent possible future problems.
Installation of blade guides
The next step is to fix the saw band guides at a 90 degree angle. This will prevent uneven and irregular workpieces with crooked ends or imperfections.
The simplest solution is to screw 3 bearings to the bar: 1 fixes the flat side, and the rest are designed to fasten the tape on the sides.
An important stage in the installation work of a band saw with your own hands is the alignment of the guides in relation to the fixing point of the support. Otherwise, even small deviations will lead to large defects and deformations.
Alternatively, wood stops can be used for 2 bearings. You should also fix a row of guides under the table. It is important to fasten them in such a way that they are placed closer to the workpiece, and even better. at a distance of 3-4 cm from the log.
If you want to work with materials of different thickness, it is recommended to provide for the possibility of adjusting the height of the guides.
Cutting out pulleys and attaching them to supports
The band saw tension mechanism and pulleys are welded using special equipment. The diameter of the latter can be arbitrary, but the larger it is, the longer the saw can serve without breakdowns. However, it is important to keep an eye on the dimensions of the blades, choosing a ratio of 1/1000 in relation to the pulley diameters. A piece 40 cm long should have a diameter of 4 mm. But if you follow the rules of use, even a narrow pulley for 6 mm canvases can be used.
When compiling the parameters of the diameter, it is necessary to take into account the following principles:
- First you need to calculate the circumference of the pulley using the following algorithm: D = 3.14 pulley diameter.
- The average speed of the cutting blade should not exceed 30 m / s.
- At the next stage, it is necessary to determine the number of revolutions. it is 0 = 30 m / s.
- Next, you need to calculate the ratio of motor revolutions in relation to the rotations of the drive pulley.
- The set of teeth is selected individually depending on the purpose and scope of the saw.
So that the band saw itself is located in the center and does not fall off, the edge is made convex, adhering to an angle of 5-10 °.
It is recommended to leave a small groove on the drive pulley with a belt, where the belt will be located. The pulley itself is covered with rubber from a bicycle or car wheels.
The selected diameter should be 1-2 sizes smaller than the pulley diameter, which will exclude the possibility of the blade slipping. The top piece is fixed to the movable block and moves in a horizontal position, ensuring that the cutting edge tension is normal. For this, a band saw tension mechanism is used, which can be used as a bar under the block to which a spring is attached. When the technician presses the lever, the structure automatically raises the pulley block, pulling the saw.
Even at this stage of assembly with your own hands, you need to take care of the method of fixing the lever in the selected position. It is better to solve a similar problem with bolts that are at different levels. The spring will provide the optimum degree of pressure to absorb the stress.
The lower block contains 2 pulleys: driven and driven. The main thing is to make sure that they are sufficiently balanced, and the likelihood of the appearance of “eights” during the rotation is excluded.
Sega a nastro portatile fai da te (homemade portable bandsaw)
To secure the upper pulley with your own hands, it is better to use a self-aligning bearing. It allows for quick wheel removal and reassembly. In this case, the wheels themselves must be fixed with maximum strength, otherwise the bearings will begin to loosen.
DIY band saw assembly instructions at home, training videos
When developing a homemade band saw, it is important to understand how it works and for what purposes it will be used. In the case of running a private business, you can create a band saw with your own hands, capable of working not only with wood, but also with other materials, including:
- A rock.
Due to the high density, such materials need to be processed with special machines made of reinforced steel. Standard metal is not capable of properly cutting stone or metal workpieces. Also, he cannot handle hard wood.
Final finishing, checking and setting
A saw made of wood can be used immediately after assembly, however, experts recommend that you first equip it with a casing that will cover the upper pulley.
Such manipulations will not only give the design an aesthetic appeal, but also increase the degree of safety: even if the belt slides off the pulley, it will stop in the casing. A chip container should be provided as an optional accessory and can be easily accessed.
It is recommended to remove the belt drive from under the work table, protecting it from sawdust. The power unit is protected by a casing isolated from dust and other debris.
The final stage of processing wood with varnish or paint has a positive effect on the service life of the tool, and also prevents injury from contact with chips and chips of untreated material. Before use, all surfaces are additionally sanded and impregnated with antiseptics. they prevent rotting and the development of mold.
A difficult but very important parameter to evaluate. It is necessary to check the sharpness of the teeth; to do this by hand, experience is required. You also need to make sure that the material is homogeneous, this can be assessed by the uniformity of the color and texture of the metal. Whenever possible, buy blades from a blade re-sharpening service. If you want to sharpen a band saw on wood with your own hands, then do not forget to clarify how many cycles are allowed for the blade.
Scope of work
The simplest criterion is the amount of material to be cut. For one-time use, it is better to choose a cheap canvas with a standard hardness. For constant use, you need to purchase the highest quality wood band saw. Durable steel tools last much longer so your investment pays off.
We equip a home workshop. we install a band saw on wood
Each wood band saw is distinguished by its alloy, width, as well as the size, shape and frequency of the teeth. Poor cut quality is often not caused by a bad blade, but by the wrong blade choice. At the same time, there are many characteristics that you need to focus on when buying. Therefore, you need to figure out how to choose a band saw.
The most important criteria when choosing a saw are:
- the amount of work and the frequency of their implementation;
- characteristics of wood (thickness, species, moisture);
- shape, size, frequency of teeth;
- blade width;
- sharpening quality;
- manufacturing firm.
All these parameters affect the main characteristics of the cut:
- its evenness;
- the presence of cracks and chips;
- vibration in process.
What teeth are needed
Before choosing a band saw, you need to decide on the type of teeth that will be optimal for the job.
First you need to decide on the density of the dentition:
- the more often the teeth are, the better the cut, this is especially important when performing decorative work;
- the less frequent they are, the higher the pressure on each individual tine, this is suitable for hardwoods;
- the more often the teeth, the more evenly the stress is distributed on the canvas, it is less deformed;
- the more frequent the prongs, the lower the pressure on each and the longer they last.
The next parameter is the size of the teeth:
- large sizes are needed for rough cutting, for example, for sawing large logs;
- small dimensions suitable for thin plywood and decorative work.
Be sure to take into account the pitch of the teeth, there are 2 recommendations here:
- a wide rhythmic step is needed for thin plywood;
- a narrow pitch is necessary for thick bars.
To prevent the blade from clogging, for sawing soft rocks choose blades with a variable pitch.
A band saw on wood has the teeth not aligned, but at an angle to each other. This design is called a wiring, it is needed in order to reduce the level of vibration, and this has a beneficial effect on the wear resistance and durability of the tool.
The standard setting is a triplet with teeth alternately leaning to the left and right and another straight tooth that stands between them. This type is used for most work, can be used for contour sawing. Group wiring differs in that straight lines and teeth, inclined to the left or right, stand in pairs. This shape makes sawing more efficient, but also the blade is more expensive.
You should also consider the shape of the teeth. It is better to select the profile for the type of wood that needs to be cut:
Most of the quality instruments are produced by European and American companies. When choosing a saw, special attention should be paid to the manufacturer:
- Arntz (Germany). The largest company that supplies saws to all European countries. Differs in high quality, but also at the appropriate price. The range includes high-strength carbide wheels.
- Lenox (USA). The company is interesting in that it applies a special Armor coating of its own design (aluminum-titanium nitride) to all its cutting blades. The tool features high strength and long service life.
- Wikus (Germany). The assortment of the company is distinguished by a wide variety of tools. In terms of the number of different models, it is the leader among saw manufacturers.
- Forezienne (France). The company produces high-quality discs that are subjected to multiple calcinations. The tools are distinguished by exceptional cutting performance, high strength.
- Lennartz (Germany). One of the largest firms, but it concentrates on the production of band saws. The selection of disc tools is sufficient, but not as large.
- Doall (USA). A small company that produces quality equipment. Saws serve for a long time, have excellent performance indicators. The company has successfully established itself in the market.
The width must be chosen based on the working conditions. First of all, you need to focus on the type of machine, recommendations for choosing a saw should be found in the operating instructions.
The width of the canvases varies in the range of 14-80 mm, 38-41 mm is considered the standard value.
Also, when buying, consider the following nuances:
- thin canvases quickly bend when working with rough wood;
- wide blades give a smoother cut;
- thick saws easily deform thin and plastic bars due to strong heating;
- sometimes it is necessary to make a cut at an angle, and this greatly affects the depth of cut.
If you have the skill and special tools, you can make the blade yourself. The mechanism of the machine itself is extremely simple, it resembles a bicycle with a wheel and pedals, but between them there is not a chain, but a saw blade. The first wheel attaches to any rotary motor (you can use a drill). The second wheel is only needed to fix the saw.
A band saw is made for wood with your own hands in accordance with several rules:
DIY band saw
Homemade DIY band saw: a detailed description of making homemade products with photos and videos.
Hello everyone! I needed a band saw for a home workshop, I decided to do it myself.
There was a 300 watt electric motor available, I decided to use it for my homemade product.
The tape will also be used. 1830 x 16 mm. We will make the drive wheels from plywood.
These are the blanks for drive wheels.
From a corner I welded a frame, installed an engine, drive wheels, made a belt drive.
To prevent the saw from sliding off when cutting, I put thrust bearings. The unit consists of three bearings and two corners.
The holes were oval to adjust the gaps between them and the tape. There are two such knots, the second is placed under the table.
Retractable rod, consists of two welded corners and an inserted profile tube. Fixed with a bolt through a welded nut. The boom body is bolted to the horizontal angle and has mobility for adjustment.
I made a table frame from a profile pipe, a chipboard sheet will be screwed onto the frame.
Installed tape protection on the side opposite to the cut, and a box on the upper wheel.
The result is a homemade band saw for a home workshop. Saws very well and quickly, I am completely satisfied with the homemade product.
I also recommend watching the video showing the band saw in operation.
DIY band sawmill
Homemade band sawmill, made by hand at home, photo and detailed description of the saw design.
I decided to make a homemade wood sawing machine. I bought square pipes 20 x 40 mm, and 20 x 20 mm (for reinforcement) wall 1.5. Then I sawed and welded just such a structure.
Engine 2.2 kW at 1500 rpm.
I cut circles out of steel to make wheels for the canvas. The saw band was used by PL-600 (Saw blade length. 1638 mm, saw blade width. 12.7 mm, saw blade thickness. 0.65 mm).
I did not do the guides for the tape in principle, since the discs should guide the web well enough.
I didn’t make a support bearing, because I thought that there should be enough beads on the wheel so that the tape would not run away. And there were no particular thoughts on how to attach it to the wheel and frame (after all, one wheel is movable and therefore the bearing must also be moved.). Although it is probably possible to make one support bearing near a stationary wheel. If the tape is set so that it moves with the sawing part on the stationary wheel, then this bearing will not let it fly off, and on the movable wheel it will be set automatically as it comes to it from the stationary already exposed. But this need to think it over.
Now about how I made the wheels themselves.
First I took a steel circle and cut a pancake off of it.
On a lathe, I pierced a hole for the shaft (on the second wheel for the bearing) and pierced the outer surface by creating steps (they are coaxial with the central hole).
I cut squares out of steel sheet. He clamped the faceplate into the lathe chuck and glued the plate with double-sided tape with a rotating center and cut out a “donut” with a central hole slightly less than the diameter of the central part.
With the central hole, the resulting discs sit tightly on the “step” of the central part of the disc and automatically we obtain parallelism and coaxiality of the lateral parts. Then I grabbed them by welding.
At the end, I took an iron strip and welded it along the outer part, slowly bending it right in my hands (I weld one end, then I pull on the other and the strip itself falls on the side discs) and welded along the way.
Well, the last thing I did was install the finished disc on a turner and grind the outer part of the strip, forming a collar for the tape and removing all the flaws and curvature of bending. Of course, for good, you need to balance, scald better and paint after stripping. But first I’ll leave it like this.
Then he welded all this for a long time and stubbornly, bought bearings, drilled and twisted. The result is such a do-it-yourself band sawmill.
Further pictures of some nodes.
Saw blade tension.
Launched it through a chastotnik. It’s scary, of course, without a casing. At first the canvas jumped off, but the tension screws managed to set such an angle that it sat evenly.
Dismissed a dry tree.
The boards turned out to be quite good in terms of the consistency of dimensions, even despite the crooked fastening of the log with 4 self-tapping screws on the stake driven into the ground.
The quality of the cut (surface cleanliness) was also very pleased.
I think we need to increase the number of drive belts, as sometimes it slips with one (well, or just tighten it for a start).
Now I’m thinking about how best to organize the securing of the log and its rise to the desired height.
While I am planning to lift it with a screw jack and fix it by screwing it to the end of the horizontal plate and fix it to the base on which the jack or something similar will stand.
Well, protection must be done. Most likely from something like a fine welded mesh (so that you can see what is happening under the casing).
We recommend that you look at another homemade product. a tire sawmill.
DIY band sawmill
Self-made band sawmill made by hand: photo and description of the design, as well as video of the sawmill at work.
The craftsman made a band sawmill with his own hands, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the design of the homemade product.
Technical characteristics of a homemade band sawmill:
Lifan engine, gasoline, four-stroke, air-cooled, power. 13 hp.
Drive wheel revolutions. 1300 rpm.
The maximum diameter of the workpiece for cutting. 520 mm.
Cutting length: with 2 pipes. 3 m, with 4 pipes. 6 m.
Maximum board width. 400 mm.
Impeller diameter. 400 mm.
Belt lifting mechanism. manual and automatic.
Saw band length. 2960 mm.
The construction of the sawmill is collapsible, disassembled and assembled in the field in a few minutes. The photo shows the process of assembling the sawmill and its work.
First, the frame and two guide tubes are installed.
Then a mobile carriage is installed on the pipes.
Next, the author mounts impellers, wheel diameter. 400 mm.
Sets the drive wheel.
An engine with an automatic clutch and a belt drive are installed on the drive wheel of the sawmill. The motor drives the band saw blade rotating on two wheels.
On the impellers, a band saw with a length of 2960 mm is put on. The saw is tensioned with a tensioner.
The following shows the process of work of a homemade band sawmill.
The sawmill easily cuts the workpiece into boards. Cutting thickness, manually adjustable.
Such a homemade product is useful for harvesting lumber in the field, the whole structure is assembled right at the place of work, in the forest.
Making a sawmill with your own hands will be much cheaper than buying an industrial version, and dismantling logs onto boards on your own is much more profitable than buying ready-made boards.
In this video, the assembly and operation of the band sawmill is shown.
We offer you to watch a detailed video review of a homemade band sawmill.
Hand-held power tools at the moment have become widespread, which no master craftsman can do without them. However, sometimes this toolkit is not enough. and there is a need for serious equipment for your workshop. So, in my practice, a period came when a belt sander became necessary, which allows you to process the surfaces of large parts.
Industrial models of grinding machines are too expensive. Therefore, I had to come up with something myself. A conventional hand-held belt machine, in which a continuous sanding belt moves along the rectilinear surface of the sole with the abrasive side outward, seemed to me the ideal constructive prototype of a home-made machine. Naturally, my machine will turn out to be much larger, and it will be installed permanently.
It so happened that I needed to process a large number of parts about two meters long. This determined the dimensions of the table and the future machine itself.
The electric motor did not have to be chosen. I installed a 2.5-3.0 kW motor I have on the machine with a speed of 1500 revolutions per minute. If the belt speed is chosen about 20 m / s, then the drum diameter should be close to 200 mm. Thus, it turned out that at the speed of our engine, a gearbox is not required for the machine.
Of the two drums, one plays the role of the lead. It must sit rigidly on the motor shaft, and the other. tensioner. rotate freely on bearings around a fixed axis. To adjust the belt tension, it is enough to shift this axis along the working table in one direction or another. I built the table from thick pine logs, but now I think it should have been made of sheet metal. ‘
It is quite obvious that the distance between the shafts and the length of the sanding belt depend on the table length. The size of the entire platform on which the machine parts are mounted (an electric motor with a driving drum, a working table, a driven drum with a tensioner) is also decisive. On the side of the driven drum, the table must have a bevel. providing a smooth touch of the tape (especially its glued joint) to the surface of the desktop.
The leading sanding belt and tension drums can be made from chipboard. To do this, it is enough to saw billets with dimensions of 200×200 mm from the slab and assemble a package of 240 mm from them. Square tiles. each separately or (if the lathe allows) together, folding the workpieces on the axis. grind to a diameter of 200 mm. The latter option is preferable, since the drum can be made in one setup. It should be borne in mind that the diameter of the drum in the center should be 2-3 mm larger than at the edges. It is known that with this surface geometry, the flexible tape will be held in the middle of the drum. In my opinion, the optimal belt width is 200 mm. 5 of these tapes can be easily glued from one roll of 1 m wide emery cloth.
If at the very beginning I hoped to process only wooden blanks (photo 6-10), then during operation I opened and sharpened a special tool additionally quickly and efficiently, for example, various profile cutters.
It turned out that the longer the working table, the more opportunities for imagination when choosing a technological method for processing a product. Personally, I had to work with a belt of about 4.5 m, while the length of the processed parts reached 2 m. This does not mean that the length of the workpieces cannot be even greater. Under certain conditions, the length of the workpieces to be ground may not matter. If they are narrow, then any of them are the capabilities of the machine. Now I do not need to go to specialized workshops for sharpening cutting tools: planers, jointers, planers and other things (photo 11-13). Such quality of sharpening of axes, knives, chisels and various chisels I could not achieve before on any universal grinding equipment. And if you remove the wooden table and make it out of iron, then it will be easy, you can put it on an abrasive belt. But when the length of the workpiece is equal to or less than the length of the table, it is much easier to achieve perfect grinding of the entire surface than when moving a large workpiece.
Crusher balancing process
The rotating parts must be statically balanced to protect the crusher from vibration that can lead to breakage. This operation can be carried out using a fairly simple device (Fig. 4). We carry out the installation of the technological roller 1 into the hole on the shaft in the drum and place the already assembled rotor (containing axles, cotter pins, keys and a locking bolt) on top of the knives located in the horizontal plane.
By drilling metal from the plates in the rotor, it is necessary to ensure that the rotor stops evenly in different positions. Before installing, the hammers should be matched so that their weight is equal. With a properly balanced hammer drum, there will be no vibration in the crusher.
The balancing unit consists of:
technological roller, 2. assembled rotor (not including hammers and washers), 3. axles and cotter pin, 4. locking bolts М8, 5. device knife, 6. wooden stand, 7. bases.
Hammer drum making
On top of shaft 7, insert and weld plates 2 (Fig. 3). The end of the shaft must have a through hole in which the M10 thread is cut. When the drum and the motor shaft are separated, a special bolt-puller is screwed into this hole. Each of the axes 6 is equipped with six hammers 3. These parts have high wear resistance, due to the hardening of their edges.
The hammer drum consists of:
locking bolt М10, 2. two plates, 3. hammer, 4. washers (1 by 2.2 cm), 5. cotter pins, 6. hammer axles, 7. shaft in the drum
It is necessary to drill holes for rivets to a diameter of 1 cm. Adjustment of the distance from one hammer to another on the axis is adjusted with washers 4. If you place the hammers in planes that are parallel to each other, crushing will be more intense.
If the hammer drum rotates in the clockwise direction, the grain will spill out faster, and therefore, the crushing will be larger, and if the reverse is turned on, it will be finer. Grinding degree adjustment is carried out by replacing the grate.
Grinder sieve drawing
The sieve consists of:
side mounting plate, 2. sieves
We proceed to the next stage of production of the unit called a do-it-yourself grain crusher. The drawings tell us that the upper part of the drum should have a 5.5 by 4.3 cm hole, on top of which the hopper should be secured, in which there is a valve. This valve is designed to regulate the flow of grain that enters the grinder. It is installed in the desired position, after which it is fixed with an M5 bolt and a handwheel.
The funnel of the grain collector 10 is welded onto the flange of the base of the supporting arc from the bottom of the sieve. Through this element, the crushed grain is poured into a previously substituted container.
With the corner 9, the crusher is fixed on top of the bedside table, which is divided in half by means of a horizontal partition. The upper half is intended for the installation of electrical equipment. a safety circuit breaker, a reversible magnetic starter, a warning lamp and a power button. In the lower part, replaceable sieves and tools will be stored.
Simple do-it-yourself grain crusher (drawings)
Oddly enough, crushing grain at home can be no worse than in factory conditions. And sometimes it happens that the result can be even better. In this material, you will find everything to make such a device as a grain crusher with your own hands: drawings, principle of operation, various nuances.
With this device, the grinding of a bag of grain can be done within 12-15 minutes. The grain crusher is made on the basis of parts used in agricultural machines:
as a basis, you can use the external brake drum, which once stood on the rear clutch in the DT-75 tractor, the inner side of which contains teeth that serve to hook the driven clutch discs;
as the front flange of the base, you can use the seed drill opener disc, which comes with a hub and bearing;
hammers are made from counter-cutting plates of fingers in the cutting device on a combine harvester;
grain bunker. a container with which the SUPN-8 beet seeder is equipped.
Making the base of the shredder
Using a lathe, cut drum 3 (Fig. 1) to ensure a height of 65 mm. The inner side should have a groove d = 282 mm, the height of which is 3 mm (you will have to grind off the teeth). Now you should cut off the third part in the drum, this is necessary for the hole under the sieve. It must be supported by arcs 8 welded to the flange 5 and the outer side in the drum.
The shredder base consists of:
flange (opener disc), 2. disc hub equipped with bearing 180503, 3. toothed drum, 4. base flange, 5. drum flange, 6. electric motor, 7. side plate of the sieve, 8. support arc (made of key material 6 8 mm), 9. angle 4.5 by 4.5 cm, 10. grain collector funnels, 11. M8 bolts and nuts (2 pcs.), 12. electric motor shafts.
Flange 1 should be ground down to a size of 2850.5 mm, inserted into a specially prepared place in the drum and welded.
In hub 2, pre-drill 8 mm air sampling holes. If this is not done, the performance of the crusher will be significantly reduced. Where the cut off part of the drum is located, the sieve 7 should be installed (Fig. 2), which is attached with two bolts 11 on M8 and the side plates to the surface of the disc in the opener.
Do-it-yourself grain crusher video
Well, that’s all you need to know to build such a thing as a grain crusher with your own hands. The drawings are presented, you have read the description, it remains only to do!
DIY clamp from scratch.
The Clamp is one of the versatile tools available for clamping workpieces to allow them to be machined on a supporting surface. The tool consists of two main elements, namely a movable jaw with a locking mechanism and a supporting surface. The movement and movement of the sponge is carried out using a screw or a lever, which in turn compresses the element and prevents reverse movement.
Types of clamps:
The screw clamp is a simple design and is considered the most common. It consists of a metal bracket made of two active sides, on one side there is a supporting surface, on the other there is a threaded eyelet with an adjustable screw screwed in. The screw has a working jaw (external handle) from the inside of the bracket. This tool handles heavy and large workpieces.
The quick-clamping clamp is universal. The working support surface of this tool is fixed on a long rod along which the working block with a sponge moves. An auxiliary screw or pressure mechanism allows the block to be fixed.
The pipe clamp will cope well with large-sized workpieces due to its design, which consists of two separate elements, a jaw and a base plate with a screw clamp.
The angle clamp is two supporting and working elements, assembled together as one tool. It is designed to work with workpiece joints at right angles. Corner clamps are divided into two subtypes: 1) with two clamping screws perpendicular to each other; 2) with one screw in charge of both blocks. Rarely, but you can find corner clamps that position workpieces at an acute or obtuse angle.
The disassembled tape clamp has flexible elements and several sliding jaws that allow you to fix the workpiece in the right places, while the sponges fix and compress the tape around the perimeter in the right places. Clamps of this kind cope with several complex elements of workpieces.
Pliers clamps are seemingly simple, but not reliable in operation, due to the fact that they create an error at the joint, but help out if speed is needed when installing and removing the workpiece.
According to statistics, the first three options are made at home, most often the above three elements consist of the simplest components, which allows you to make them yourself. In domestic use, they help to cope with tasks that require additional auxiliary tools.
When making a clamp at home, you need to follow the drawings and instructions step by step, and also do not forget about safety precautions. Basic plumbing and joinery skills are encouraged. List of required materials: wooden beams, pipes, bolts, nuts, pins, studs. For joining metal pipes, a welding machine is required.
The clamp made according to this template is well suited for working with blanks made of wood material. fiberboard, chipboard, OSB, timber, and boards. You can determine the scale of the instrument yourself, but it’s better not to improvise and follow the instructions. The template of all wooden parts should be transferred to a thick sheet of paper or cardboard (at the selected scale).
Next, the image from the template must be transferred to the selected suitable board. Use hardwood. Cut out all the pieces using a jigsaw. The shape of each part should be processed with a file or sandpaper. Make a note in the “jaws” for the axle bolt, then make a hole. Using a round file, lengthen the hole in the upper jaw, the length of which should be the diameter of the bolt 1.5-2.5. A hole for the nut must be drilled in the handle. Attention, the diameter must correspond to the number of the wrench. With a tool (file), it is necessary to give a hexagonal shape. Use glue (cyanoacrylic or epoxy) when installing the nut inside. When assembling the clamp, it is also necessary to fix the axial bolt in the lower jaw with glue, then install the rear hinge on the screws, putting on the upper jaw and putting the washer, install the handle. We advise you to stick the pads on the work surface.
DIY screw clamp.
There is an even simpler option for making a screw clamp. from a hacksaw.
To make such a tool, it is enough to weld a support platform at one end of the arc, and a nut at the other, into which an adjusting screw with a sponge and a handle will be installed.
DIY pipe clamp.