DIY lawn mower muffler. How to Repair Small Engines

How to Repair Small Engines

Small gas engines serve us in many ways. They power lawn mowers, tillers, cultivators, trimmers, edgers, snowblowers, chain saws, pumps, generators, air compressors, and other useful home tools. They also power our fun: outboard boats, snowmobiles, motorcycles, all-terrain vehicles, ultralight aircraft, and other toys. To keep them operating efficiently, an owner of these tools and toys should know about small engines: how they work and what to do when they don’t.

Small gas engines are made up of individual systems that work together to produce power. Each system has many components. Internal combustion gasoline-powered engines require six systems: fuel, exhaust, ignition, combustion, cooling, and lubrication. In this article, we will discuss the systems and components that make small engines work.

Fuel and Exhaust

The fuel and exhaust systems are critical to operation. They furnish the fuel for combustion and remove exhaust gases. The following are components of a fuel and exhaust system.

Gasoline: Gasoline is a combustible liquid that burns relatively slowly. However, when sprayed as a mist and mixed with air, it is quite explosive. All it needs is a spark. Two-stroke engines require that oil be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate internal parts. Four-stroke engines use a fuel-air mixture.

Fuel Tank: The fuel tank stores fuel in preparation for mixing by the carburetor and use by the engine. Some fuel tanks are pressurized with air to help deliver fuel to the carburetor. Other tanks are non-pressurized and depend on a fuel pump to deliver fuel to the carburetor.

Fuel Line: Fuel is moved from the tank to the pump and/or carburetor through a fuel line. Pressurized fuel systems often have a squeeze bulb in the fuel line for building pressure.

Filter: A carburetor jet has a small opening that can easily become clogged. A fuel filter traps dirt and sediment from the gas before it is delivered to the carburetor.

Pump: A fuel pump produces a vacuum that pulls the fuel from an unpressurized tank, then delivers it to the carburetor.

Carburetor: The carburetor has one job: to mix the correct proportion of gasoline and air for the engine. Too much gasoline in the mixture makes it rich; too little gas makes it lean.

Throttle: The throttle controls the amount of fuel-air mixture that enters the engine from the carburetor. The throttle thus controls the speed of the engine.

Primer: A primer injects a small amount of gasoline into the carburetor throat to make the initial fuel-air mixture rich. A primer is used to help start a cold engine.

Choke: Some engines control the richness of the fuel-air mixture at startup by controlling the air rather than the fuel. A choke reduces the amount of air in the fuel-air mixture.

Governor: A governor is a device that automatically opens the engine’s throttle when more power is needed and closes it when the load is light.

Muffler: Small gas engines, especially two-stroke engines, are noisy when they operate. A muffler reduces the sound of the exhaust gases by passing them through baffles.

Spark Arrestor: A spark can exit the exhaust port of a small gas engine, potentially starting a fire on nearby combustibles. A spark arrestor on the exhaust port can reduce the chances of such a fire. Spark arrestors are especially important on chain saws, motorcycles, and all-terrain vehicles operated in dry woodlands.

Ignition

The ignition is a primary system within all small gas engines. It produces and delivers the high-voltage spark that ignites the fuel-air mixture to cause combustion. No spark means no combustion, which means your engine doesn’t run. Below are the components found in small engine ignition systems. Some systems will include breaker point ignitions while others depend on solid-state ignitions.

Magneto-Powered Ignition System: A magneto uses magnetism to supply electricity in ignitions where there is no battery. The magneto is turned by the crankshaft, which rotates when the manual recoil starter is pulled. The three types of magneto ignition systems are mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled.

Battery-Powered Ignition System: If your small engine includes a battery for starting, the ignition coil will also use it to supply spark to the spark plugs. A battery stores electrical energy until needed. Battery ignition systems also use mechanical-breaker, capacitor-discharge, and transistor-controlled ignitions.

Mechanical-Breaker Ignitions: High-voltage electricity must be sent to the spark plug at the appropriate time. In mechanical-breaker ignitions, this job is performed through the contact points and a condenser.

Points: As the crankshaft rotates, a cam opens and closes a set of contact points. These points function as an on/off switch: Closed is on, and open is off.

Condenser: Because the spark moving across points can damage their surfaces, the condenser stores voltage to reduce arcing between points.

Capacitor-Discharge Ignitions (CDI): A capacitor is a large condenser. A CDI stores and delivers voltage to the coil using magnets, diodes, and a capacitor

Transistor-Controlled Ignitions (TCI): Transistors are electronic controllers. A TCI uses transistors, resistors, and diodes to control the timing of the spark.

Coil: An ignition coil is simply two coils of wire wrapped around an iron core. The coil changes low voltage (6 or 12 volts) into the high voltage (15,000 to 30,000 volts) needed by the spark plug.

Spark Plug: A spark plug is an insulated electrode that is screwed into the top of the engine cylinder. High-voltage timed electricity from the magneto travels by wire to the spark plug. The base of the plug has an air gap of about 0.030 inch (30 thousandths of an inch), which the current must jump.

Wires: The primary wire from the coil to the breaker point and secondary wire from the coil to the spark plug(s) deliver electricity to the ignition components.

Distributor: A distributor is an ignition system for engines with more than one cylinder and spark plug. It distributes the spark to the appropriate cylinder using a rotor, cap, and individual spark plug wires.

Combustion

The combustion system of a small gas engine is where the work gets done. Components of the combustion system include the cylinder block, cylinder head, camshaft, valves, piston, connecting rod, crankshaft, timing gears, and flywheel. To better understand small gas engines, let’s look at how this vital system works.

Cylinder Block: The largest single part in a small gas engine is the cylinder block. It is a piece of metal in which the cylinder hole is bored or placed.

Cylinder Head: The cylinder head is the top, or ceiling, of the cylinder and is attached to the block with bolts. Depending on the type of engine, the head may or may not include valves.

Piston: A piston is the movable floor in the combustion chamber. Its upward movement compresses the fuel-air mixture. After combustion, its downward movement rotates the crankshaft.

Crankshaft: An engine’s crankshaft is a metal shaft with an offset section onto which the connecting rod is attached. Rotation of the crankshaft moves the piston up in the cylinder. Movement of the piston down in the cylinder then rotates the crankshaft.

Connecting Rod: Between the piston and the crankshaft is a connecting rod. At the larger end of the connecting rod is a bearing that allows rotation around the moving crankshaft. The small end is attached to the piston pin.

Valves: Valves simply open and close passages. A reed valve in a two-stroke engine is activated by changes in air pressure.

Flywheel: At the end of the crankshaft is a circular weighted wheel called a flywheel. The flywheel delivers the engine’s power to devices (wheels, blades, etc.) and helps keep the crankshaft turning smoothly.

Combustion and friction produce heat. Heat and friction.- if not controlled.- can quickly damage an engine’s components. Small gas engines are typically cooled by air. Friction is reduced using movable bearings and lubricants.

Air-Cooling Fins: For simplicity, most smaller gas engines are cooled by air. Metal fins around the outside of the combustion chamber help dissipate the internal heat.

Friction: Friction is resistance that occurs when one surface rubs against another. Friction causes wear. In an engine with many moving parts, friction is reduced with bearings and lubricants.

Bearings: A bearing is a replaceable part that takes the brunt of the friction. A friction bearing relies on lubricants to minimize friction. A nonfriction bearing uses hard steel rollers or balls to prevent wear, though it too requires some lubrication.

Lubricants: Lubricants such as oil and grease reduce surface friction by coating parts with a film. Lubricants in two-stroke engines are applied to surfaces by mixing oil with fuel.

Viscosity: An oil’s viscosity is its resistance to flow. The thicker a lubricating oil or grease is, the higher its viscosity number.

Filters: Friction happens. Moving parts wear, even with the best lubricants. The resulting metal as well as carbon from the combustion process must be cleaned from the oil to ensure long lubrication. Some small engines use oil filters to remove contaminants from the circulating oil.

Regularly servicing your small engine will ultimately save you money and time. In the next section, we’ll review how, where, and when to service this engine.

The Benefits of Regular Small-Engine Maintenance

Purchasing a small engine-driven implement can make a dent in your budget. Tools and toys powered by small engines can cost anywhere from 100 to 10,000. That’s why it’s a good idea to invest in periodic servicing of your small engine. Replacing an engine every couple of years is an annoying and needless expense. Below we will review detailed information on how to service two-stroke gas engines. Following these procedures could help you put more money in the bank and less into your mechanic’s

Benefits of Regular Service

Servicing your small engine tool or toy on a regular basis offers many advantages over the Wait-Until-It-Breaks Maintenance Program.

• By establishing a service schedule, you will gain confidence that whenever you need the unit it will be ready for use.
• By performing a number of service functions together, you will save time. You can pick up all needed parts and lubricants in one trip to the parts store. Then you need to disassemble a component only once to perform numerous service procedures rather than taking it apart many times.
• Regular service gives you a chance to visually inspect the entire engine and related components for damage, wear, and other potential problems.

How, Where, and When to ServiceKnowing how to service is as important as knowing when. Some service procedures can be performed wherever you store your tool or toy: in a garage, storage shed, or tool shed. If the unit is heavy, you can build a ramp up to a sturdy table that is at a handy height for working. Or you can use a ratchet winch to lift the engine. Units weighing less than 40 pounds may be lifted to a workbench or table as long as you lift with your legs rather than with your back. Get help if you need it, and make sure that the unit will remain sturdily in place as you service it. Remember to always put safety first!Servicing a small engine is easy once you know what to do and when to do it. A service chart can help you determine common service requirements as well as track what service has been done. Your engine-powered unit may have a service chart in the owner’s manual or service manual. Typical recommendations include changing engine oil every 25 hours of use and tuning up the engine at least once a year.The purpose of ongoing service, also known as preventive maintenance, is to keep your engine-driven tool or toy in good operating condition. Ongoing service procedures include air cleaner service, crankcase breather service, cooling system service, muffler service, lubrication, and tune-up.Lubrication service means making sure that all moving parts have sufficient lubrication (oil and/or grease) to minimize wear. Lubrication service procedures include mixing oil with fuel in two-stroke engines, and lubricating other moving parts.A tune-up consists of the adjustment and/or replacement of parts critical to smooth and efficient engine operation. Those parts include components in all engine systems: fuel, exhaust, ignition, combustion, cooling, and lubrication. Ignition tune-ups are more important for mechanical-breaker ignitions than they are for self-contained solid-state ignitions. Regular tune-ups will keep your small engine running smoothly and reduce the need for repairs.In addition, you should check other systems and make adjustments as needed to keep them operating smoothly. This includes adjusting the throttle, choke, and governor linkage, and cleaning off debris.Engine-driven tools and toys usually come with an owner’s manual. While some manufacturers’ manuals are more complete and better written than others, most manuals include basic information on safe operation and service. Unfortunately, product manuals are often written to reduce the manufacturer’s liability for accidental misuse rather than to help the owner service the product. In addition, manuals for engine-driven products typically show how to service the nonengine components: the grass catcher, wheel adjustments, blades, chains, and other parts. Service information for the engine may be minimal or nonexistent in the owner’s manual.

What can you do about this lack of information? Fortunately, there are numerous after-market publishers of service manuals for specific models of small engines. If you don’t have an owner’s manual, you can contact the manufacturer directly to purchase one; manufacturers also sell service manuals. Most manufacturers keep product manuals for up to 20 years. If they only have one original copy left, you can often request a photocopy for a small charge.

Knowing how to service the fuel system is an important part of caring for a small engine. Learn how to care for fuel filters, carburetors, and other major fuel system parts in the next section.

How to Repair a Small-Engine Fuel System

The function of a small engine fuel system is to store and deliver fuel to the combustion chamber. Maintaining a fuel system includes servicing the fuel filter, air cleaner, fuel tank, and fuel lines; adjusting the carburetor; and adjusting the governor. Of course, not all small engines have all of these components.

Servicing Fuel Filters

Some small engines have a fuel strainer in the bottom of the fuel tank. Others have a removable fuel strainer in the fuel line. Still other small engines use disposable in-line fuel filters made of pleated paper. To clean sediment from a tank:

Step 1: Drain or siphon all fuel from the tank.

Step 2: With a flashlight, find the lowest point in the tank: the sediment reservoir. Clean all sediment from the reservoir indentation.

Step 3: Wipe sediment from the end of the filter element.

Step 4: Wipe the inside of the tank with a clean rag.

Step 5: Refill the fuel tank.

Here is how to clean sediment from a fuel strainer:

Step 1: Find and close the shutoff valve on the fuel line.

Step 2: Loosen the lock nut on the bowl retainer and remove the sediment bowl.

Step 3: Empty and clean the sediment bowl. Clean the filter screen. Refill the sediment bowl with fresh fuel.

Step 4: Reinstall the sediment bowl and bowl retainer, tightening the lock nut.

Step 5: Open the shutoff valve.

Here is how to replace an in-line fuel filter:

Step 1: Find and close the shutoff valve on the fuel line or use a clothespin to pinch the fuel line closed.

Step 2: Disconnect the fuel filter from the fuel line.

Step 3: Replace the in-line fuel filter with an exact replacement part.

Step 4: Open the shutoff valve.

Servicing Air Cleaners

The purpose of an air cleaner on a small engine is to keep large particles in the air from clogging the carburetor. The two types of air cleaners used on small engines are oil bath and dry. Hereis how to service an air cleaner:

Step 1: Remove the cover of the air cleaner, typically by unscrewing a nut on top of the cleaner.

Step 2: If it’s an oil cleaner, remove all oil and contaminants from the center channel of the cleaner, wipe it clean, then replace oil to the indicated level. A dry cleaner cannot be cleaned and therefore must be replaced.

Step 3: Replace the air cleaner cover and make sure all fasteners are securely tightened.

Servicing Fuel Tanks and Lines

Fuel systems with pumps use nonpressurized fuel tanks. Outboard engines typically use pressurized tanks. Fuel lines are usually made of neoprene. Here’s how to service a fuel tank and line:

Step 1: Remove the cap from the fuel tank.

Step 2: Using a flashlight, check for sediment in the fuel tank. If sediment is found, clean the tank and replace the fuel. Replace the fuel cap when done.

Step 3: Check the fuel line and siphon bulb, if there is one, by squeezing them and inspecting for cracks. If damaged, replace with a line or a bulb of the same inside diameter. Make sure it is approved for use with fuel.

Adjusting Carburetors

A carburetor mixes fuel and air in the correct proportion for use by the engine. The three types of carburetors commonly used in small engines are natural draft, updraft, and downdraft. These names describe the direction that air flows from the inlet to the engine manifold. To maintain your small engine, you will want to make sure the carburetor’s speed and mixture are correctly adjusted.

There are many types and models of carburetors used on small gas engines. Some have more available adjustments than others. Depending on the design, some carburetors are set at the factory and don’t include adjusting screws. For example, a carburetor may allow adjustment of high speed, idle speed, and idle mixture while another only allows high and idle speed adjustments. Here’s how to adjust the typical three-adjustment carburetor:

Step 1: With the engine running, open the throttle wide. Turn the high-speed adjustment needle forward and backward until the highest speed setting is found.

Step 2: Move the throttle to the slowest running speed. Adjust the idle-speed needle until the recommended idle speed is found.

Step 3: Once the idle speed has been set, adjust the idle mixture until the engine runs smoothly.

Adjusting Governors

A governor is a device that controls the speed of the engine as the load changes. As the load slows the engine down, the governor opens the throttle to return the engine to a set speed. Governors are commonly used on engine-powered electrical generators where constant speed is important. Two types of governors are installed on small engines: mechanical and air-vane.

Caution: An incorrectly adjusted governor can cause the small engine to operate at excessively high speeds and damage or destroy it.

Unfortunately, there is no universal adjustment sequence for small engine governors. Much depends on the type of governor, whether the crankshaft is horizontal or vertical, the complexity and pivot points of the linkage, and the intended operating range. Because of these factors, refer to an owner’s manual or service manual for your specific engine and application to adjust the governor.

In the next section, learn how the ignition system needs to be routinely serviced so it can deliver a high-voltage spark to help start a small engine.

Lawn Mower Parts

Search and shop all the parts you need for your riding lawn equipment and Gator UTV including lawn mower blades, filters, belts, spark plugs, oil, and home maintenance kits.

Find Parts

Search part numbers and John Deere parts diagrams to identify exactly what you need to keep your equipment running smoothly.

Quick Reference Guides

As a John Deere owner, when it’s time to maintain, service or repair your equipment we have easy-to-use information sheets that keep your John Deere equipment running well.

Home Maintenance Kits

Feel confident in tuning up your lawn mower or garden equipment this season with our Home Maintenance Kits. Easily find the right product so you can DIY and save!

Looking for your Serial Number?

Finding your lawn mower’s model number and serial number is as easy as locating the identification tag on your machine. As seen in the example, the model number will be displayed below the MODEL heading (Example: Z235), and the serial number will be underlined on the top-right corner of the tag (Example: 130002).

If you’re looking for the engine number, that can be found directly on the engine itself.

Home and Garden, eat your heart out.

Get the latest on how to care for and enjoy your yard and garden. The articles and videos are informative and the ideas are amazing.

MowerPlus Mobile App

MowerPlus is the app you need to keep your John Deere riding lawn mower running well and your lawn looking great this season. The app tracks and records yard tasks and serves as a one-stop shop for seasonal care tips and maintenance activities. Know your mower and know how you mow with John Deere’s MowerPlus app.

The Right Part. The Right Price.

At John Deere, you get the value of choice for your maintenance and replacement parts for all makes and ages of machines – at any budget.

Genuine Parts

Genuine John Deere Belts Blades are your best choice for your newer machines.

Alternative Parts

Alternative Parts are an economical solution for your John Deere equipment.

The John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System

Never drain engine oil again.

We’ve changed the oil change. Revolutionized it really. See how fast and easy changing your oil can now be on 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors with the John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. Only from John Deere. Included on the E120, E130, E150, E160, E170, and E180 models.

Step One. Take it off.

Lift the hood. Make sure the engine is cool, then, twist to remove. It’s that simple.

Step Two. Twist and lock.

Grab the new Easy Change™ Canister, twist and lock into place. Make sure the arrow on your Filter System aligns with the arrow on your engine.

Step three. Done.

Close the hood and mow. John Deere recommends the Easy Change™ 30-second Oil Change System every 50 hours or at the end of your mowing season. Don’t drain engine oil ever again.

Draining engine oil is so 2017.

The engine modifications and new technologies are in. The re-envisioned oil filter with a media designed to resist breaking down in oil over time is here. The thousands of hours of testing are done. The end result is an all-in-one, oil and oil filter system like no other. The first of its kind. And thanks to the new John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System (“System”), you’ll never have to drain the oil from 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors again.

Here’s why: The new System captures contaminants and recharges your engine with nearly a quart (0.8qt) (0.76 l) of new oil. In fact, this System increases the amount of oil in the engine by nearly 40%. 2 Your engine likes that.

What do you mean, I will never have to drain oil from my engine again? How is that possible? The answer is simple. We have developed a better filtration system and filter design for our 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors 1. This fully synthetic filter media has greater surface area which increases its capacity to hold harmful contaminants. What’s more, the filter media is designed to resist breaking down in oil over time. Which means you’ll get a cooler running engine. And a cooler running engine and better filtering helps increase engine oil life. John Deere’s recommended oil service for 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors 1. is to change the System every 50 hours or once a season, whichever comes first. Remember, the System replaces a portion of your engine oil. And that’s plenty.

The System uses John Deere Turf-Gard™ Oil. Using John Deere Turf-Gard™ Oil ensures you are using the exact oil specified by John Deere engineers.

Testing. Testing. Testing. Thanks to thousands of hours of rigorous and extensive testing, you can feel confident your engine will run for years to come.

1 The John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System is available on E120, E130, E150, E160, E170 and E180 Lawn Tractors today.

2 Compared to similar V-Twin engine models that do not have the John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. That includes equivalent Deere 2017 models and 2018 models without the System.

Frequently Asked Questions:

What is new with John Deere Riding Lawn Equipment?

We are excited about the exclusive John Deere Easy Change™ 30 second oil change system. Exclusive to John Deere and only available on certain models of the new 100 Series Lawn Tractors. These tractors are designed for ease of use for both operation and maintenance. The John Deere Easy Change™ System (“Easy Change”) allows the user to easily complete the recommended engine oil and filter maintenance in 30 seconds.

What is this new oil change system?

We changed the oil change. The all-in-one oil and oil filter system gives the owner the ability to change a portion of the oil and the filter in less than 30 seconds.

What happens to the rest of the oil in the engine when the Easy Change system is replaced?

The Easy Change system replaces.8 quart of oil. The remaining oil in the engine is refreshed by the charge of new oil included in the replacement Easy Change system. Combined with 40% more engine oil capacity, improved filtration and cooler running temperatures which help extend oil life, it is no longer necessary to remove and dispose of all the oil in your engine during service.

What makes the Easy Change system unique from other filters?

It is not just a filter. It is a newly developed technology system that allows a new “filter” to come already charged with oil and allows you to remove an existing filter and the contaminants inside without tools and without making a mess. Beyond the filter, technology within the canister and on your engine makes this possible.

Models with the Easy Change oil system use a fully synthetic filter that has more capacity to trap and hold contaminants. The larger surface area of the Easy Change canister acts like a radiator helping the oil to stay cool.

Does the Easy Change system somehow decrease the life of the engine?

The John Deere 100 Series lawn tractor models, with and without Easy Change, are specified for the same lifetime and are rigorously tested to the same standards to ensure the life of the tractor meets expectations.

Can I add the Easy change system to an existing tractor?

Because this system also requires unique features within the engine, the Easy Change system cannot be added to an engine that was not equipped with it at the factory.

Can I change all the oil if I choose to?

You could if you wanted to. There is an oil drain plug. It is not required for maintenance.

How often do I need to change the Easy Change canister?

Every 50 hours or once a year. The 100 Series Lawn Tractors with and without the Easy Change system have the same maintenance schedule.

What type of oil is recommended?

We recommend only John Deere Turf-Gard™ 10W30 Oil. The Easy Change canister comes pre-filled with John Deere Turf-Gard™ 10W30 oil.

How do I recycle the old oil?

Many local government recycling programs, authorized retailers, auto repair stations, and auto parts stores will puncture and recycle used oil filters and oil.

Do I ever need to add oil?

Yes. Consistent with our service recommendations for this product, you should check oil level daily and add oil if required.

If you like mowing the lawn but worry about the damage your mower could be doing to your ears, this guide on the best ear protection for mowing will help.

By Tom Scalisi | Published Jun 23, 2022 12:55 PM

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

For a lot of folks, getting on or behind a lawn mower is a moment of zen. It’s a chance to clear their thoughts, get some fresh air, and enjoy themselves. But it can be hard to get into the flow of things with that loud lawn mower chattering away. Thankfully, ear protection can block out some of those decibels and keep the noise to a minimum.

But choosing the best ear protection for mowing takes research. It’s important to learn a bit about the options available, including the different styles and protection they offer. This guide will explain it all and even showcase some of the best hearing protection for lawn mowing.

• BEST OVERALL:3M Peltor X2A Earmuffs
• BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK:3M Banded Hearing Protector
• UPGRADE PICK:Howard Leight by Honeywell Digital AM/FM Earmuff
• BEST OVER-THE-HEAD:Decibel Defense Safety Earmuff
• BEST PLUGS:Vibes Hi-Fi Earplugs
• BEST BEHIND-THE-HEAD:3M Peltor Optime 105 Earmuffs, H10B
• BEST WITH RADIO:DeWALT DPG15 Digital AM/FM Hearing Protector
• BEST WITH BLUETOOTH:3M WorkTunes Connect Wireless Hearing Protector
• ALSO CONSIDER:Hearos Xtreme Protection Series Foam Ear Plugs

What to Consider When Choosing the Best Ear Protection for Mowing

There are a lot of things to consider when choosing the best ear protection for lawn mowing. It’s important to find a set of muffs or plugs that are effective and comfortable, but there are also some extra creature comforts that might make a particular set a bit more attractive. Below are some of the most important factors to consider when choosing hearing protection for lawn mowing.

Noise Reduction Rating

Manufacturers indicate how effective their products are by listing their noise reduction rate, or NRR. This describes the number of decibels a hearing protection product can lower the noise by before it hits the wearer’s ears. For instance, a pair of earmuffs with an NRR of 25 will lower 50 decibels to 25 decibels (dB).

Different types of ear protection offer varying levels of NRR protection. For instance, earplugs almost always offer the most protection, providing around 33 dB. Meanwhile, over-the-ear muff-style hearing protection can offer around 31 dB. It’s possible to stack them and use both at the same time as well for 36 dB.

In general, decibel levels of 70 dB or less are considered safe. Since most lawn mowers produce around 90 dB, ideal ear protection for mowing will offer an NRR of 20 or more. The greater the NRR, the less noise will make it through the muffs or plugs, providing more protection.

In Ear vs. Over the Ear

There are two basic styles of hearing protection: in-ear protection and over-the-ear protection. Each has its pros and cons, so it’s important to be familiar with both before settling on one or the other.

In-ear hearing protection typically involves small cylindrical foam earplugs, or soft foam tips on the ends of a stiff plastic horseshoe-like Band (these are actually “semi insert”). The foam enters the ear, expands, and blocks sound from making its way in.

Over-the-head protection includes muff-style protectors. These hearing protection devices have plastic cups with foam inside that compresses around the wearer’s ear. This compression seals off the ear, lowering the amount of noise that can penetrate the eardrum.

In-ear protection is typically the most comfortable as the foam is very light and there isn’t any pressure on the wearer’s head. However, some folks prefer to keep things out of their ears, and these plugs are only good for a couple of uses. Over-the-ear muffs can be heavy, hot, and create a bit of pressure on the sides of the wearer’s head, but they’re suitable for multiple wears and they don’t require sticking anything in the ear.

Comfort and Fit

Hearing protection devices need to be as comfortable as possible; the wearer isn’t going to want to throw them on when they’re mowing if they aren’t. For that reason, it’s important to find earplugs or muffs that are not only comfortable while they’re doing their job but also while they’re around the neck.

For folks who have sensitive ears or simply prefer not to place anything inside their ears, muff-style over-the-ear hearing protection is the best bet. These can be a bit heavy and cumbersome, but they can be particularly comfortable when worn around the neck. Look for products with breathable designs or materials for the headband to promote as much comfort as possible.

For those who don’t mind sticking a bit of foam in their ears, in-ear plugs are the most comfortable. These devices are soft, small, and lightweight and become just snug enough to keep noise out once they expand. Some even come with soft, flexible bands for wearing around the neck.

For those who’d prefer an in-between option, semi-insert plugs exist. These are lightweight, and the bands they’re attached to provide just enough pressure to keep the foam tips in the rim of the wearer’s ear without placing a foam plug inside.

Connectivity

What’s more zen than listening to a podcast or a favorite playlist while mowing the lawn? Rather than stuffing a pair of earbuds underneath some over-the-ear muffs, users can connect their hearing protection to their phones or the radio waves around them.

Many of the best hearing protection for mowing products feature Bluetooth connectivity. This allows users to mow the yard while listening to music or a talk show while also preventing their ears from experiencing damage.

For those who’d prefer something a bit more old-school, hearing protection with built-in AM/FM receivers allow the user to protect their ears while also tuning into a game broadcast or a countdown.

Keep in mind that these devices do require rechargeable or replaceable batteries.

Our Top Picks

After covering all of that information about the best hearing protection for lawn mowing, it’s time to start shopping. The following are some of the best products on the market, ensuring that time spent clipping that Kentucky bluegrass is as safe and enjoyable as possible.

Why is My Lawn Mower Smoking?

Four candles/Shutterstock

Leaking oil from the exhaust is the usual cause of blue, white or black smoke from a lawn mower. Learn to assess and fix a sputtering, smoking lawn mower.

Gas-powered lawn mowers can be full of surprises. Perhaps the most startling one happens when you pull the mower cord and the engine sputters into action, only to be followed by clouds of smoke from the motor and under the mower deck. What’s going on and what should you do about it?

Why is My Lawn Mower Smoking?

There are several reasons your lawn mower could be bellowing out smoke. While it looks kind of intimidating, like something bad is about to happen, in most cases, it’s nothing to be worried about, and it’s not usually hard to fix.

Oil spilled onto the engine: If you changed your lawn mower’s oil recently or added more to the oil reservoir, some may have spilled out onto the engine. Mowing on a steep slope in the yard, or turning it over to adjust the blade, could also cause some oil onto the engine. When that happens, the oil will burn off, causing blue or white smoke. It’s best just to let it burn off, so when you start up again, the oil will be gone.

Overfilled oil reservoir: Too much oil in the reservoir can also cause a lawn mower to smoke. The lubrication systems in most mowers are not well sealed, and usually there’s an overflow oil reservoir with a relief outlet where excess oil can leak. Check the oil level in your mower, and if there’s too much in there, consult the manual for how to drain some out until it’s back at the proper level.

Mower burning too much gasoline: The carburetor regulates the ratio of gasoline and air in a lawn mower engine. If the carburetor isn’t getting enough air, that means the mix is heavy on gasoline, which can cause black smoke from the exhaust. Often times that’s caused by a dirty air filter, which is preventing enough air from getting to the carburetor.

Different Types and Colors of Smoke

If the smoke is black, there may be an engine problem behind the smoke. In such cases, your first step after the mower cools down should be to check the air filter. If it’s clogged, the combustion chamber may not be getting enough oxygen, resulting in a too-rich fuel mixture that will cause the engine to run poorly and even spew smoke. The solution is to change the air filter, a relatively easy task.

Blue and white smoke is the result of oil on the engine. If there’s too much oil in your oil reservoir, you may want to drain some of it out. If it’s just some oil spilled onto the engine, all you have to do is let it burn off.

When to Take a Smoking Lawn Mower to the Repair Shop

If your smoke problems persist, chances are the oil seals in the engine lubrication system or around the pistons are the issue, or you may even have a cracked crankcase. These are repair jobs for a small engine pro, unless you’ve got experience working on engines.

There is also a chance the smoke is simply the result of a carburetor that needs cleaning or adjusting. If you’re up for it, most owners’ manuals include instructions on how to adjust and clean the carburetor.

Remember, it’s important to tune up your lawn mower at the start of the season, which will help make sure it’s running properly and prevent potential problems like a Cloud of smoke following you around the yard.

Troubleshooting and Fixing the Mower

Mark Johanson is an experienced home and garden writer/editor/publisher. He has written several books and hundreds of magazine articles. He has edited and directed more than 400 DIY and gardening books, including the BLACKDECKER® Home Improvement Library series and two of the best-selling gardening books in North America. He is an experienced DIYer and enthusiastic gardener.