Drilling holes for sockets in concrete.

Installing a socket in a concrete wall with your own hands. step.by.step instructions

Prior to the start of installation work, you need to prepare tools and materials. You should decide on the areas where the sockets will be mounted. It is necessary to draw a scheme on which the installation sites of sockets, switches and wire lines will be provided.

note! In residential premises, it is customary to mount sockets at an altitude of 30. 40 centimeters from the floor. If we are talking about the bathroom, toilet, corridor or other utility destination, the level of location of the fittings must be selected based on practical necessity.

When laying the wires, some rules should be followed:

• The wiring should be located 15. 20 centimeters from the ceiling.
• The wires should disperse only vertically or horizontally. Building standards are prohibited by the diagonal laying of wires, the creation of zigzags or twisting between the wires.
• The distance between the strokes and the gas pipeline should not be less than 35 centimeters.

Tools and materials

Installation of a socket in the wall implies the presence of the following tools and materials:

• devices for creating a stroob (angular grinder or stroboresis);
• a peorator for drilling nests;
• Crown for working with concrete, winning drill, nozzle in the form of a scapula;
• knife, nippers, screwdriver;
• putty knife;
• roulette;
• gypsum and alabaster;
• deep penetration of the primer;
• Feaster;
• wires;
• pencil.

Varieties and classification

The sockets are produced in a wide assortment, which includes a large number of models and modifications, including an in.depth version. It is difficult for a person who first encountered such products to immediately solve the problem of how to choose a socket.

Upon more careful consideration, it turns out that all types of sockets are classified according to only a few signs. according to the material, design and sizes. In addition, they differ in color scheme and design solutions that do not affect the functionality of the boxes.

The most common material for the manufacture of sockets is durable non.combustible plastic. Due to these qualities, mounting boxes can be installed in holes for sockets in drywall and even in wooden structures. They are often used in conjunction with such finishing materials as plywood, wood-cutting stove, wood-fiber slab, lining and other decors.

High.quality plastic gradually displaced metal models conducting electricity. Thanks to this, the likelihood of short circuits decreased. However, metal sockets should be very well proven in wooden houses if they are still used at such objects.

There are varieties of models that are selected by configuration and design features. Nevertheless, all types of products resemble a glass of cylindrical shape, fixed in the wall with a solution of construction gypsum or alabaster. When installing concrete, models that are not equipped with additional fasteners are used. Products with fasteners are used in softer and hollow walls, where it is required to make reliable fixation.

Some modifications of boxes for the block of sockets can be supplemented with screws and other fixing details in the form of spacers adjusted by rotors of the screws. In this case, fastening in the wall is carried out on the ongoing of the socket, due to its design features. You need to handle mounts carefully so as not to spoil the seat.

Standard dimensions of sockets and crowns

Considering the classification of mounting boxes, you should dwell in more detail on their size. Standard dimensions of the product are 68×45 mm, and deciphered as the diameter of the socket. 68, depth. 45 mm. In this regard, when marking holes under the block of mounting boxes, the distances between the centers are taken in the size of 71 mm.

For different manufacturers, the dimensions of the products differ depending on the purpose of each of them. Diameters are in the range of 60-68 mm, the maximum value is 72 mm. The depth of the socket is selected depending on the number of elements planned for installation in the internal space. Its value starts from 40 mm, the average is 60 mm, the maximum is 75-80 mm, which means an in-depth socket.

In accordance with the size of the socket, a drill and a crown for drilling holes are selected. You need to carefully select the tool under the diameter of the hole, otherwise the box simply does not fit inside. Reinforced concrete and other materials of increased strength are drilled with diamond crowns, and the distance between the sockets of 71 mm is maintained regardless of their size.

Safety precautions

Concrete drilling is a traumatic type of construction work, so it is important to follow the safety rules. The requirements for individual protection of a person are as follows:

• Use plastic glasses, because there is a great risk of rebound from the wall of crushed stone particles included in the cement. The mask is put on for the same purpose, so as not to damage open areas of the skin on the face.
• Put on a respirator or mask-“petal”. Concrete carvings are accompanied by the release of a large amount of dust. Small particles of cement settled on the mucous membranes, leading to a throat, difficulty in breathing. To protect the skin from dust, put on a protective suit or old unnecessary clothes and a headdress.
• It is recommended to use cotton gloves. They will protect their hands from possible burns and small scratches, will allow more confidently to keep the device without accidental slipping.

It is also important before drilling holes to study the plan in the room so as not to hurt the wiring and gas pipes. If there is no such scheme, the walls are checked with special devices. When it is impossible to do this, they refuse to work on concrete.

During the making holes in the wall, people are taken outside the radius of 3 m from the working area. If a socket is done at a height, then drilling is carried out on stable forests. The use of a penetrator without a strong base under the feet of a worker is prohibited.

When using electrical tools are held tight with two hands. The revolutions are increased gradually, not bringing to maximum values.

Non.compliance with the listed safety rules is fraught with breakdown of equipment in the very light case. Often workers receive serious injuries or a fatal outcome occurs when the concrete carvings for concrete carving incorrectly occur.

Devices for drilling

The opening device in concrete is selected based on the parameters of the concrete wall. There are such options:

• The thickness of the concrete ceiling does not exceed 300 mm. In this case, it is enough to use only a drill with a SDS-Plus cartridge. The preferred tool power is over 350 watts, the diameter of the drill clamped in the cartridge is 10 mm and above.
• The monolithic wall erected from the cement of the M400 and the highest brands can be cut out only by the SDS-MAX system with a shank diameter of 2 cm.
• For reinforced concrete structures, a heavier technique is optimal. a peorator.
• If necessary, drill a hole in the wall more than half a meter thickly used (rarely used in domestic conditions due to difficulties with connecting to a single and dual-phase network).

Thus, for drilling holes for the socket, the peorator is most often used. It is used independently, or in combination with a crown for a socket.

A hole using a crown

Crowned Building by concrete. consumables used together with the peorator for drilling holes. Consists of 4 elements:

• Pin with a flange for mounting on the device.
• The crown itself (has the appearance of a pipe with a diameter of up to 8 cm) with a thread.
• Drill for centering.
• Screw.
• winning (the cheapest and short.lived);
• tungsten carbide (universal use, quickly wear out without the possibility of recovery, but are inexpensive);
• metal with diamond spraying (cuts reinforcement, drilles the hole in 3-5 minutes of work).
• Withstand up to 10 cycles of work (cut up to 10 holes). they cost an average of 500;
• maintain performance even after 100-150 disperse in concrete. their

The following actions are performed for the manufacture of the hole:

• The pedorator drill is combined with the marking center on the wall, blend concrete for the required thickness.
• Put on the apparatus a collected crown. The centering drill is inserted into the finished hole, the device is included.
• The crown enters the wall two.thirds. this is how an even hole turns out.

Crown and drill combination

The crown even with winning teeth in the diameter of the cylinder is not always able to cut out the concrete wall. Therefore, they often use the combined method of drilling: with a coronet drill, they finish the work begun by the drill. In order to carry out work on reinforced concrete or strengthened surfaces, take the following steps:

• Mark the center of the new power point and approximate radius.
• The pedorator drill the center of the future outlet is drilled, and also make holes in diameter with a step of 2-3 mm.
• If it is necessary to perform the work as carefully and evenly as possible, the marking is made by the crown itself, turning it on for 7-10 seconds in drilling mode.
• Then they work out the wall around the circle with a drill, making an average of 20 holes. If the holes are drilled less, then during operation, the jolly movements of the penetrator are possible. the device is advised to keep it stronger.

Drilling by a pedorator

If there are no crows for the penetrator, and the work must be performed immediately, resort to an alternative drilling method:

• Design the center and circle of the future outlet.
• The holes are drilled with a drill in the middle and in diameter with a small step.
• Then, with the same drill, the recesses in concrete are drilled inside the already outlined circle for the socket. To knock concrete from the inside is allowed and with a chisel.

The process is very expensive in time and the efforts to be used in exceptional cases. The method also does not guarantee decorativeness: the knocked out circle will have uneven edges and unequal depths.

The use of corner grinders

Another unpopular method is the thread of the hole under the socket with a corner grinder. For work, the appropriate disk is used to work on concrete surfaces. They start work like this:

• The circuit of the outlet is marked, but not in the form of a circle, as in other methods, but in the form of a square with sides 8 cm.
• Turn on the corner grinder and make cuts of the desired depth.
• With the help of a hammer and a chisel, the concrete from the resulting contour is extracted.

The radius of the disk of the corner grinder is usually less than the necessary depth of the hole, so the wall is worked out with a chisel not only within the cuts, but also in deep.

This option is considered the most dangerous of the presented, because incorrect movements of the device lead to breakdown of the disk. The consequence of such an incident is often accidents.

Corner grinder is carried out only at right angles to the wall, without changing the position of the cutting parts during operation. In addition, when carving, the device occurs more harmful cement dust than from the peorator.

How to drill a hole under the outlet in the wall

Work by an electrician is not always assembly and repair of schemes and cable laying. To lay a fishing line for a trimmer, install sockets, hang lamps you need to make holes correctly or hollow the recess. To do this, you need to know the main types of drills and the features of their use. In this article, we will consider how to drill a hole in concrete, wooden walls and metal surfaces.

Types of power tools for drilling

In everyday life, for the main construction work, they use:

Electric screwdriver is a small device designed to wrap screws and screws into non.aged materials. They are also suitable for drilling drywall woody stove, plywood, wood and other derivatives. Suitable for drilling not too thick metal. Are wireless and wired.

The characteristics of the battery screwdrivers usually indicate not power, but the battery voltage and often, the greater it, the greater the power and torque has the device, but there are exceptions. Whereas in the characteristics of wired screwdrivers indicate the power, and they work directly from the 220V network.

The main distinguishing feature of the electric screwdriver from the drill is the presence of a ratchet (clutch of torque adjustment). A rattle in screwdrivers is a mechanism that limits the torque on the cartridge. This is necessary so as not to break the slots in the heads of screws and screws and not damage the material.

Also, in the screwdrivers, in addition to adjusting the revolutions, pressing the click-button (the stronger and deeper you press, the faster the cartridge rotates), there is a mechanical speed switch. Injecting other gear of the gearbox and reducing speed not “electrically”, namely “mechanically”.

Thus, at the lowest speed you get a greater torque, which will not work if you simply set the revolutionary revolutions on the low limit on the trigger and press the trigger very little (if your electric screwdriver is adjusted by the speed of pressing the trigger).

An ordinary unstressed drill differs from a wired electric screwdriver in that a ratchet is not installed in the drill to limit torque, there is no speed switch. The power of the drill can both 500 W. manual miniature are similar to screwdrivers, and with a capacity of 2 kW or more.

Cartridges are of two types. quick.sound and key. On electrical screwdrivers, mostly fast.fast.

The shock drill is equipped with an impact mechanism. It is based on two rubbing wheels (rates) with teeth on the adjacent sides. Can work both in simple drilling mode and in drilling mode with a blow.

The power of the blow is more determined by the axial load on the drill (the strength with which you press on the tool during drilling). The device is suitable for drilling all common materials for walls. The concrete drill slowly, it works better on brick and slag block, you will not be able to make a gap, but you can easily hang a picture, and if it turns out, then make a hole for the socket.

This video clearly shows the principle of operation of the shock drill:

A peorator is a powerful device for drilling and drilling. Can drill without a blow, with a blow, and work only in shock mode, like a jack of a hammer. If the shock drill drills and knocks slightly, then the peorator actually hollows the wall (see. How to choose the right a peorator).

In it, the blow is already formed not due to the friction of two disks with teeth, but with the help of a shock mechanism, the principle of operation of which you can see below.

One of the main features of the penetrator is the way to consolidate the equipment. drills, crowns and other nozzles.

To do this, it is not a fist cartridge in which the drill was clamped by rotating its outer clip, but the so.called rapid SDS cartridges, the development of Bosch, they come in different modifications, pay attention to in the store.

You can insert the usual equipment without a shank, from the drills, but for this, adapters are used like that is depicted below.

You cannot clearly say that it is better for home. a drill or a peorator. Probably. both. These are different tools for different types of work. How the pedorator differs from the drill

There are a lot of drills and each of them was created for certain types of work.

Spiral or screw cord. this is the most common type of drill. This name was obtained due to the characteristic form of the working part. it is made in the form of a screw, twisted grooves go along the working body. This design allows you to remove the chips from the hole during the drilling process. There are various types. for metal, concrete and wood. Differ in the screw step, sharpening angle, the presence of attacks made of carbide materials or central spike. The figure below depicts a metal for metal.

Remedies

Since the work is heavy, dusty, with dangerous tools, all safety rules must be followed.

electrical safety

• You should work in a dry room, in the presence of moisture, use protective shoes and gloves.
• In the process of preparing for work, you need to make sure that at the place of drilling in the wall there are no electrical connections under voltage.
• During work, be vigilant, so as not to get on the wires in the wall, since previous owners could make wiring according to some standards.
• When the cutting power tool is operating, it is necessary to carefully ensure that the power cable does not fall under the moving parts.

Protective funds

Hands must be protected by building gloves. from blows, tools, vibration. Put a cap on your head or takes from dust.

The dust of building materials is harmful to breathing. Therefore, it is necessary to use a respirator.

Concrete is especially harmful. Its small particles during the drilling are crushed and have sharp uneven edges, but pieces are of different sizes. Therefore, it is necessary to protect breathing, and, in addition, beware of the mechanical effects of flying particles of concrete.

At the same time, the eyes are the most vulnerable place, and to protect them, you must definitely use protective glasses. In the event of an eye, in no case do not rub it with your hands, a fragment of concrete with sharp faces can pierce or cut the eye. It is best to rinse with water, without touching your eyes with your hands. bend slightly sideways under a slight stream of cool water and try to grimace in it. Then be sure to consult a doctor.

If you need to make repairs in one apartment, buy a cheap crown without diamond spraying with winning teeth (see the photo) for 8-15. Such a crown is enough to normally drill 20-50 holes. Of course, the crowns are intended for peorators, but they are normally inserted into the drill, the main thing is to clamp better. The tile should be placed on an even, not a hard surface, preferably on a wooden. The diameter of the standard mounting box for the outlet or switch is 65 mm, but the diameter of the crown depends on the manufacturer and can be 65, 66 and even 68 mm. However, this does not matter.

For better quality, you can use a tripod for a drill.

Drill a drill (as an infantry in a drill mode) with a special crown with diamond spraying.

When drilling holes in this way, you will take more time, but the result will be much better. The tile almost never beats and chips at the edges of the hole are small. The more new the crown, the better the result and the less time you will need. It is not necessary to press on the drill, if the crown is normal, in 2-5 minutes you will pull the hole.

Marking and drilling are made on the front side of the tile.

Drill a circular drill (cutting scissors) along the tile. “ballerinka”.

This method is suitable if you need to drill 10-20 holes. The “ballerinka” does not withstand more, and in general it can immediately bend. it depends on the model and the quality of the metal. But the price of “ballerinka” is not large-2-10. Ballerinka looks like this:

You need to gently drill strongly with a drill, and if you have a tripod for a drill, then it is generally fine.

Crown (ring saw) with carbide attacks.

The main drawback is the high price of ring saws with carbide attacks-40-60, which is not much cheaper than diamond crowns. The crowns look like this:

For better quality, you can use a tripod for a drill.

Drill a drill (a pen in the drill mode).

This method is suitable if there is no crown or you reluctance to buy it. In time, this is the longest way. Attach the box to the tile, circle with a black marker or a simple pencil if the tile is not glossy. Drill about 20 holes with a diameter of 6-8 mm, as shown in the figure (the edge of the drilled holes should go beyond the fishing line for a trimmer by 1-2 mm). Carefully knock out the middle, and remove the remaining teeth with pliers:

Marking and drilling are made on the front side of the tile.

Drink a diamond canvas.

A method that I use most often, especially when a switch or outlet falls into one, but on two tiles and the use of a crown is impossible. If the switch gets on one tile, drill 1 hole with a diameter of 10-12 mm, so that the edge of the drilled hole does not reach the line 1-2 mm. Insert the canvas into the drilled hole and then fix the canvas on the knife.cutting room for metal. The more new the canvas, the faster you cut the hole, but still you will have to tinker for 10-20 minutes. The diamond canvas looks like this:

Diamond canvases are sold in stores and markets. Estimated price 2-4. So that the glaze on the tile does not break off, you need to cut the tiles in only one direction, moving the hacksaw on the metal and, accordingly, the canvas down. By itself icing or the front side of the tile in us. You need to raise the canvas carefully, again not so as not to break a piece of glaze.

This method is also good in that it allows you to make a rectangular hole in the tile, oval or any other shape for any decorative insert, semiprecious stone, rappant shell, etc.D. In such cases, if the cut is visible after the finish, it is advisable to treat it with a grinding skin.

If the tile is already glued to the wall, then only methods will suit you, 3 and 4.

And do not forget to moisten the tile, this is not only you will speed up the process, but also extend the life of the tool and reduce the amount of dust.

Installation of sockets and switches of hidden wiring is carried out in mounting boxes. When installing such boxes, a special device is used. a crown under the outlet.

With the help of a pedorator

Of course, there are situations when there is no need for a tool for a tool. There is a way to drill without a crown. You will have enough conventional drill and chisel, or attach a special nozzle to the peorator so that it works like a jack of a hammer. Adhere to the following stages of work:

• Apply a simple drawing of built.in socket to the wall. For this, just attach a socket to the wall and circle its contours with a pencil.
• Further along the contour, you need to drill more than twenty holes.
• Knock out the crotch of holes with a chisel. Of course, at first glance, such a process of work may seem very time.consuming. But there is no other option, it will be a ruthless alternative.

Connection of the wiring

This procedure is not complicated, because you need to connect literally a couple of wires, but the main thing here is not to make mistakes.

The first step is to turn off the electricity in the entire safety room. We take an indicator screwdriver and touch each wire to make sure that the wires are de.energized and do not pose a threat.

Next, from the ends of the wire we remove about 2-3 centimeters of the insulating winding. After that, the bare area is bent with a ring, and in the case of a multi-core wire, it must be divided into two parts so that it acquires a V-shaped shape. The bare vein of the wire must be slightly applied with pliers to increase the area of ​​contact with the terminal.

There are only three terminals on the outlet itself: two conductive and one grounding. The wires in all three terminals are clamped by bolts. When using the wiring with standard color marking, you need to connect the yellow-green wire to the ground terminal, the blue wire is connected to zero, and the remaining on the phase. It’s quite difficult to confuse the sequence of connection, because there are not many options, but still, you need to be careful.

The connection of the block is carried out by a whole train or a star. The first option implies the transition of contacts from one outlet immediately to the next element. The method of the star implies the laying of the wire with each outlet to the common point, and then the phase connection to the phase, and zero to zero. It is worth noting an important point that the rules for the installation of electrical installations categorically prohibit the installation of grounding with a train. In this way, only the phase and zero can be connected, and grounding must be connected by the method of star.

End of work

When the wiring is already confidently located in the contacts and firmly twisted, the outlet itself is inserted into the socket. The wires are laid so that they are parallel to the rear wall, after which the entire structure is pushed into the hole.

Fixation of the internal mechanism is carried out thanks to the paws of the spacer. In order for them to disperse around and fix the entire structure, you need to tighten the bolts located on the front part in the direction clockwise. To weaken the fasteners of the mechanism, the bolts spin counterclockwise. If the paws interfere with the installation of the structure, then they can be slightly tightened with an ordinary stationery elastic or thread.

The final step is the installation of the front of the outlet. They are very diverse in appearance, but everyone has holes for fasteners located in the center. Just put the external frame and twist 1-2 bolts. After all the above actions, you include electricity at the facility and check the correctness of the outlet.

Installation of sockets in concrete is possible on its own, but for this you need to have at least basic skills and observe safety precautions.

Requirements for sockets

A single set of rules describing the installation of boxes for the hidden installation of electrical outlets does not exist. The rules for the installation of electrical installations require compliance with the general requirements of fire and electrical safety. In this sense, the installation of the box under the outlet is no different from the installation of the distribution box. There are building norms and rules (SNiP), which determine the geometry of the placement of sockets in the room. Well, no one canceled common sense.

We will try to combine all the conditions under which the installation of sockets will not cause problems during the operation of electrical equipment.

• The material of the boxes should be strong enough to withstand the force with which the fork is removed from the outlet. In addition, the case itself should not pull out from the wall with the outlet. To do this, on the sockets designed for installation for building mixtures (as a rule, it is gypsum or alabaster), there are ribs, grooves and hooks cast on the outer surface. Technological holes for the establishment of wiring also work as fixing elements.
• A pasty solution falls into these gaps, after drying the body can be pulled out only by destroying part of the wall or breaking the plastic.
• The vast majority of sockets are made from various types of plastics. On the one hand, it is cheap, on the other, plastic is a dielectric, and is not destroyed under the influence of moisture.
• On the inside of the boxes should be shaped ribs for fastening sockets.Many people remember Soviet buildings in which sockets fell out of the wall with the slightest effort. Previously, sockets were made of metal. Not only is it unsafe, the spacer guides on the outlet could not catch on the smooth surface.
• In addition, the sockets are equipped with landing holes for screw mounting.
• The plastic from which the sockets are made should not maintain combustion. From the point of view of the wall (concrete or brick), this requirement is pointless. But from a clumsy outlet, wallpaper on the wall can ignite, or standing next to furniture.

Optional, but useful requirements. the ability to connect several sockets among themselves to standard clamps. This allows you to collect a design of any length.

We proceed to the direct installation of the sockets

Before starting work, it is advisable to have a complete set of consumables. Power cable, the required number of sockets (with a small margin “for scrap”), construction mixtures, glue PVA glue. Power tool with which you plan to cut holes.

Marking

Regardless of whether the power cable is laid in advance, or you will post the walls under it simultaneously with the drilling of niches for sockets, the installation of the sockets begins with thorough marking.

Guess where electrical appliances will be placed. Perhaps tomorrow you will want to make a rearrangement in the apartment. Therefore, sockets are installed according to the following principle:

• For universal use. at an altitude of 30 cm from the clean floor (meaning height from the staged finishing coating).
• For large household appliances (washing machine, refrigerator) at an altitude of 1 meter.
• If the blocks of sockets are mounted above the countertops or nightstands. at least 10 cm from the surface.
• A special case is the installation of outlets for the TV suspended on the wall. This is an individual project.
• But the distance between the centers of the sockets is a constant (applies to a group installation, in a row). This value for installing standard outlets is 71 mm.

It is also necessary to take into account the horizontal location. From the corners, ceiling, floor, door boxes. distance of at least 15 cm. From heating radiators no closer than 50 cm. Of course, it is impossible to place sockets over heating devices (with the exception of the “warm floor” system) and above the kitchen slabs. The rules for the installation of electrical installations and SNiP prohibit the installation of sockets and laying wires on the walls that directly go out into the street.

We make holes

There are three main ways. Advantages or disadvantages between them do not exist. It all depends on the presence of your tool and nozzles. There is no fundamental difference between the installation of sockets in a brick or concrete wall, so the technology is similar.

Crown on stone (concrete, brick). Classic and fastest option for drilling a wall under a round box.The diameter of such a nozzle is usually 70 or 75 mm. Given the outer size of the sockets (61–65 mm), it is better to use a larger crown. Firstly, it is easier to fill a solution with a solution than to squeeze the box into a tight hole. Secondly, you have a small supply in case of a mark in the markup.Then, adhering to strictly central marking, we drill holes to a depth exceeding the length of the socket by 10-15 mm. You will not succeed in the finished holes, most likely the installation site will look like this: it’s okay, the core is easily knocked out by a chisel or a nobleman.

Advice! What to do if the reinforcement came across the crown on the way? (Concerns only concrete walls).

It is not difficult to identify metal under the crown. You are definitely not mistaken: the deepening stops, a characteristic knock and vibration appear.

The most correct advice is to change the installation site of the outlet. The reinforcement has a step of 15-30 mm, if the placement is not so fundamentally. move the hole 3-5 cm. Before this, try to determine which armaturin you got into: vertical or horizontal. This will help to avoid further mistakes.

If it is impossible to move the outlet block, you will have to remove a piece of reinforcement. To do this, knock out the “glass” of concrete to see the metal. Break the hidden place around the reinforcement a couple of centimeters. A wire with a diameter of 5-6 mm, you can kill a chisel.

Thicker armaturin will have to drill.

Tip: Do not be afraid to violate the integrity of the wall around the holes. I certainly want everything to look beautiful even at the preparatory stage: holes, as in the picture, a perfectly even row. You just spend extra time, all the irregularities will hide and close the finish surface.

By the way, if you carry out the installation of sockets in a brick wall, drilling will not be a difficult task. The material is soft, easily drilled even without a peorator: a conventional drill with a winning drill.

If you make a niche in red brick, try to get between cement layers. Less destruction (concrete is broken out in pieces), and easier to choose a hole.

The only condition under which this method is indispensable is to work with a reinforced concrete wall of special strength. You just take off the expensive crown, and the wheels on the corner grinder are a penny.

Together with the strokes for the power cable, we just cut out rectangular or square holes with a margin around the sockets.

It looks unconditionally rude. On more or less processed walls, the hand does not rise to such blasphemy. And if the finish is still far away, this is the fastest and most effective way. Also suitable for brick walls.

The final result is ready.made holes for sockets with summarized strobes. Clean the niches with a brush or construction vacuum cleaner, and be sure to primer.

Installation of boxes

In accordance with the marking, try on the collected blocks. Installation of sockets is carried out regardless of the quality of the holes. If the box rests against an incorrectly drilled niche. it must be expanded. Marking. our everything! Do not be lazy at this stage, even if you do not want to pick up the chisel and pitch again.

Experienced installers fix the sockets on some guide, fix the perfect location, and then soak the boxes with alabastr.

If you just put the sockets in a liquid solution, they can shift until completely dry. We’ll have to fuck everything again.

Drilling with diamond crusts of sockets

Can only make holes for the socket only a crown. Corner grinding swell will have to adjust the level, and make many holes with the 10th drill and knock out the scarlet-sized stupidity. Crings are of two types:

On the drilling, we focus on another time. We are interested in diamond crowns that are of three types:

Distinguishing crowns for dry and wet cut is very easy:

On the crowns of dry cuts there are cutouts on the case (the first two), for wet cut they are not needed (third picture)

The choice of the crown depends on the material of the walls. For concrete, it is better to use a micro-screen and wet cut, for brick and foam concrete- ordinary dry cut. I prefer to use the diameter 72mm paired with a 68mm socket. The difference in diameters is due to the admission to set the horizon when lumbering sockets. If the central drill leaves a little, then there will be no problems for setting a level of several sockets. If the crown is 68mm like a socket, then there may be difficulties. In this case, I advise you to take 65mm sockets, all sockets and switches are also placed in them, except that the installation becomes more complicated.

Dry cut can be performed by a drill and a peorater, a wet cut with a drill with a supply of water, for example: this:

For a dry cut, it is better to use a drill, since the peorator is not very suitable for these works, due to a lower torque and a lower speed of rotation, it also happens that the coupling can work more often, this does not go to the benefit of the pedorator. I personally laid out more than one peorator when drilling solid materials. If you work in a foam block, then the crown in tandem with the pedorator will be norms.

We draw a horizontal fishing line for a trimmer, on it we mark every 70 mm center of future sockets. We take the peorator and drill the central hole/-Ia, we take the crown, insert the central drill into the shank of the crown, inhab the opening with a crown of the hole, remove the central drill and drill a hole of 45 or 65 mm in the depths, depending on the socket, depending on the socket that we will install.

According to soft materials, the crown can live for a very long time, brickly in the region of 300 holes, in concrete no more than 100-150 with dry crust, and 40-50% longer with wet resume. The segments of the diamond crown can be attacked by about 50% of its cost in the store, many offices who do this. A peorater can work with a crown only in unstressed mode.

In quality, all crowns are approximately the same,

In my opinion, drilling holes with a crown.This is the best way to make holes for sockets is neatly and beautiful. Plus, you can use a collector for dust dusting like this:

Professional!⁠ ⁠

than three weeks have already passed as Avito promised to give an official answer in this situation, but in the end they decided to simply score and not answer the “uncomfortable” questions that were raised in my publication. Apparently for Avito if the publication did not fall into the top. then you can not understand the situation, but simply ignore it.

I wrote to them in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев and tried to contact them on other resources, full of ignore on their part.

Avito, why can you easily change data in your accounts that are freely sold on black sites and then according to these data to send only by calling the number of departure?

Why do you prohibit the check at the issues of the issuance of a technically complex product with the connection to the outlet?

Why do you allow the withdrawal of funds to the card, and not in full account details, which are used by scammers using virtual cards?

And in the end, why the seller’s profile who confessed to fraud was not blocked after the first publication?

Fasting without a rating, I will be very grateful to those who will help to raise it to the top, apparently this is the only chance to get at least some official answer from Avito.

Simone, hello⁠ ⁠

Former employees of the Multimix store in Vladivostok write to you. We want to inform us that everything is fine with us, but we still expect an incomparable salary from you. For some reason, you do not answer whatsApp:

I don’t think you don’t want to answer us, most likely there is just no time, or you changed the number. In any case, our phone numbers have not changed and Sberbank cards are still attached to them.

Just in case, before writing the text, we were convinced that everything is fine with you, we found a new site by entering the wholesale to the name of the store, as well as the group of the same name in VK, there are reviews even from the current month, and there were entries. Even other people offer to order goods through you, well, you won’t deceive customers, so you will not deceive the employees of the former, pay everything as promised, especially since the amount is nothing, a little less than 150 thousand.

By the way, we finally figured out which particular supervisory authorities to contact. Imagine, the first couple of months we did not write anywhere, there was too lazy, and Vera was still present in a miracle, and when they turned, it turned out that it turned out to be written after since you were registered there, the answer was really very long, we waited a whole month, we waited a whole month. Then the month was also from the answer, they lost time of horror of course. Now they say that the evidence is needed that we worked for you, witnesses there, correspondence. It’s good that you threw more than one person, there are enough witnesses, and correspondence in our time is stored independently, as well as transfers to a wage card, they really will have to assure them, but this is not scary. It’s only scary that you still have to pay taxes, for the entire time of our work, not a small amount will run, you will have to formalize employees at the full rate, and not as a part.time working day. In general, one disorder with these courts.

I know that you are sitting on a pickabu, maybe at least you read the message, in WhatsApp’e it’s still not so convenient to communicate, yes, yes?