Flying lawn mower vine. Black Vine Weevil Control: How to Get Rid of Black Vine Weevils

How to choose a flail mower?

A flail mower is a powered garden/agricultural device used to cut the heavy grass which a normal lawnmower could not cope with. Some smaller models are self-powered, but many are PTO- driven implements, which can be attached to the three-point hitches found on the rear of most tractors. This lawnmower is ideal for roughing up long grass and even brambles in areas such as roadsides where loose debris may come into contact.

Common uses of flail mowers

The first thing you need to remember is that all flail mowers have the same function: they cut what is on the surface to shred it and facilitate its absorption into the ground.

Flail mowers are not tillers, they are not able to cultivate the land!

Flail mowers are often used in a wide range of applications in the following ares.

• Cut the grass
• Cut pruning residues present on the ground (olive tree, vine, pear, Apple tree)
• Cut vegetable residues (carrots, potatoes, tomatoes)
• Cut the stalks of tall trees (Corn, Sunflowers, Tobacco)
• Cutting wood residues (cotton)
• Cutting logs and stumps (trees)

Common QA :

Should i buy a standard or offset flail mower?

While similar in nature, there is one major difference between standard flail and offset flail mowers.

While standard flail mowers are designed to be centered behind the tractor, offset flail mowers can be placed off-center while being towed behind the tractor. This allows the operator to access hard-to-reach places.

As the mower is offset, the flails are able to extend further in a specific direction, clearing areas that hat are inaccessible to conventional machinery.

Should i buy a flail mower or Brush hog?

Each type of mower is different enough to suit different mowing conditions.

Brush hogs are better suited to large areas of overgrown grass than flail mowers. Brush hogs can handle the situation faster, albeit of lower quality. However, flail mowers are a better option in areas of overgrown brush and vines, and their design reduces the risk of injury from flying debris. Additionally, the flail mower has a better-quality cut and they can disperse the clippings more evenly.

Keep the above factors in mind when choosing the best mower!

The factors you need to consider when buying a mower?

This is the most important factor you need to consider!

Orchards or vineyards, for example, where the terrain is demanding require equipment that can bounce off immovable objects rather than catch and throw them, such as rotary mowers.

If the mower is used in hard-to-reach areas such as fence row maintenance, highway mowing, ponds and levees, you may need an offset flail mower.

Gardening can be an interest of many but fewer people answer the question “Is it a huge ranch that you need to mow down or you own a small piece of land?”

A small lawn can be easily managed with the help of a corded electric lawnmower. Having a lawn size that takes more than an hour of time gives you a choice between a push mower and a self-propelled model. Pushing is preferred by those who are keen to exercise at the same time they are mowing. The self-propelled mower is much more comfortable.

Grass can be long and robust. The amount of power you need to clean it all will have a great impact on your buying decision. Grass that has been left for a long time and is lush and long obviously needs more power.

Should i replace the blade in time after buying a flail mower?

Blade replacement is required in the following cases.

You’ll notice that the grass that’s shortened using a blunt blade will have an uneven tip which deteriorates the whole lawn. So, if you are left with uneven height of grass, sharpen the blades.

During the regular use of the blades for lawn cleaning and maintenance, soil, water, and chemical contact leads to erosion of steel and accumulation of debris on the surface. This prompts the user to keep it polished. During the sharpening process, the blade gets its edge back but significant loss of metal occurs on continuous sharpening. Check the thickness of blades and avoid fatal accidents such as sudden breakdown that could further harm the machine.

Hitting a hard surface while low grass mowing or attacking thick grass without properly setting up the angle of cut. In case, you have a faulty mower, it’s time for a change.

Different types of regular mowers in the market

Rotary/Hover/Cylinder/Robot/ride-on mowers are common regular mowers. Different regular have their different applications. Each of them is designed to work best in specific situations.

Let me introduce these mowers one by one in brief:

Rotary mowers(Brush hog)

A rotary mower is a unit of powered machinery that uses a rotating blade or blades to cut vegetation.

Rotary mowers also known as brush hog, are designed similarly to household lawnmowers, but rotary mowers are bigger than household lawnmowers. They are best used to clear overgrown grass or brush, fast.

Rotary mowers use thick blades of sharpened metal to cut thick grass, heavy bushes, weeds and even small trees. Due to the high torque and power associated with the implement, shields made of hanging heavy chain or thick vinyl or rubber are often provided around the discharge chute to control flying debris.

Hover mowers

Hover mower works by creating a cushion of air between the lawnmower and the lawn. This cushion of air raises the lawnmower from the lawn, allowing the lawnmower blades to cut the grass.

Cylinder mowers

The first lawnmower invented was a cylinder mower. It, like many today, was hand driven. Cylinder lawnmowers have a series of blades fixed around a horizontal shaft that rotates at high speed to cut through the grass. As a general rule the more blades around the shaft, the better the cut. Most lawn mowers of this type have 5 or 6 blades.

With a cylinder mower, it is possible to set the blades very low to the ground to achieve a fine cut.

Robot mower

A robotic lawnmower is an autonomous robot used to cut lawn grass. A typical robotic lawn mower (in particular earlier generation models) requires the user to set up a border wire around the lawn that defines the area to be mowed. The robot uses this wire to locate the boundary of the area to be trimmed and in some cases to locate a recharging dock. Robotic mowers are capable of maintaining up to 30,000 m2 (320,000 sq ft) of grass.

Riding mower

Riding mowers, which sometimes resemble small tractors, are larger than push mowers and are suitable for large lawns, although commercial riding lawn mowers (such as zero-turn mowers ) can be stand-on types, and often bear little resemblance to residential lawn tractors, being designed to mow large areas at high speed in the shortest time possible. The largest multi-gang (multi-blade) mowers are mounted on tractors and are designed for large expanses of grass such as golf courses and municipal parks, although they are ill-suited for complex terrain requiring maneuverability.

Choose Your Mower Now!

With a wide range of popular types in front of you, as well as professional advice, we want you to easily find the best equipment for your lawn, field or garden.

Beautify your lawn with the best lawn mowers. Happy Mowing!

Black Vine Weevil Control: How to Get Rid of Black Vine Weevils

This page is a general DIY guide for black vine weevil control. Using the products and methods suggested you will get control of black vine weevils. Follow this guide and the recommended products to completely control black vine weevil infestations.

Black vine weevils, Otiorhynchus sulcatus, also known as the Taxus weevil is a rampant widespread pest of 100 or more types of field and container grown ornamental plants, trees, shrubs, crops, and small fruit crops across the northern half of the United States. This root weevil pest is most commonly seen in its larvae stage on yew, hemlock, rhododendron, asters, cyclamens, impatiens, and several other types of broad-leaf evergreens.

Even though black vine weevils are nocturnal and flightless, they are the most encountered root weevil pests. One reason for this could be that black vine weevils are parthenogenic females meaning they reproduce asexually without the aid of a male. Other probable conditions might be that homeowners purchased a infested container grown plant with black vine weevils hiding in the first layer of soil. Once this pests invade your property they can be found at least 10 inches beneath the soil.

There is one generation of black vine weevils per year, but depending on the season there could be both adult and larvae stage activity. Both the adult and larvae stage of this pests pose a set of on-going cosmetic to root damages leading to eventual death of foliage. For this reason, refer to the steps and products listed through this DIY guide to prevent and eliminate each stage of black vine weevil emerging in your property.

Identification

Before you can proceed with a treatment program, you need to be certain you are dealing with a black vine weevil infestation. Careless identification can lead you to using the wrong treatment products, which can be a waste of your time and money. Below are some characteristics about black vine weevils to aid in identification:

• Adult black vine weevils measure between 3/8 to 1/2 long in length. Their larvae measure up to 1/2 inch long in length.
• Larvae are legless, c-shaped, and white with reddish-brown heads. Mature larvae, pupae, are white with prominent legs and a pair of antennae.
• Posses a pair of wings with short hairs in its adult stage, but will not fly. Black vine weevils will use their six legs to crawl to each location.
• Contain a long snout to help the black vine weevil burrow and feed. They will also posses a pair of bent antennae and a lightbulb or pear shaped body.
• Coloration of adult black vine weevils is black with several gold flecks on their wings.

Use the description and image above to determine whether the pest you are facing is a black vine weevil. If unsure, then you may contact us with a photo of your pest by email or in person at one of our store locations for further pest control assistance and advice.

Inspection

Once you have confirmed the infestation is black vine weevils, you can move on with inspection. During this phase, you will locate the areas where black vine weevils are infesting and observe the conditions allowing them to thrive. This information will help determine where to apply pesticide products without wasting product material.

Where to Inspect

Black vine weevils are attracted to areas containing significant amounts of moisture. These pests will invade the root system and leaves of various trees, shrubs, crops, small fruit crops like strawberries, container grown plants, potted plants, and other types of plants. The most common place to find black vine weevils is in your trees like hemlock or broad-leaved plants like rhododendron or yews in your garden.

When weather has been consistently hot and dry this pests can invade the interior of homes through cracks and crevices around plumbing and foundation. A homes interior is not at risk from black vine weevil activity unless there is indoor potted plants available for the pest to feed on. If you do not posses any indoor potted plants then this may suggest a moisture issue.

What to Look For

Throughout its life cycle the black vine weevil will inhibit beneath the soil of high moisture areas such as within gardens, crops, or tilled areas. In its adult stage the black vine weevil becomes a nocturnal pests that buries itself up to 10 inches in the soil.

From late May to June, larvae can be found in the soil underneath or near plants. You can dig 4 inches beneath the turf with a trough to see if there are c-shaped white grubs. To draw black vine weevils larvae closer to the surface it is recommended to water the soil and plants. If you witness one pests during your digging then this could be sign of a larger infestation as black vine weevils are known to bury deep into the soil. Other signs of larvae activity can be seen on the plants roots and crown. Feeding damage done by the larvae may cause discoloration such as yellowing, wilting, stunted plant growth, branch dieback and loss of leaves.

In late spring around the end of May to June, black vine weevils start to emerge from the soil as adults. Damages from adult black vine weevils can be seen with chewed crescent to circular shaped notches on the plant leaves. You may inspect your property at night to identify this nocturnal pest emerging from the soil to feed. Once you flash a light on the black vine weevil or disturb them in any other way they will pretend to be dead and fall to the ground.

About 4 weeks from emerging, the adult black vine weevil can lay up to 500 eggs around the base of plants. Typically this activity occurs from late July to September. Black vine beetle eggs have a smooth and shiny white appearance. Over time this white coloration fades to brown.

Treatment

Before proceeding with treatment, you will need to wear the appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE) to protect your hands, face, eyes, mouth, and skin when handling or applying any pesticide materials.

Black vine weevils are resistant to most pesticide materials except those containing the active ingredient permethrin, imidacloprid, or bifenthrin. To protect your foliage we recommend using Supreme IT and Dominion 2L which will control both the adult and larvae stage of the black vine weevil.

Step 1: Mow Your Yard

To help your products reach the soil more easily and disturb egg sites then you will need to mow your turf when it has reached a height of 3 to 4 inches.

Adjust the mower blades to a higher setting to avoid scalping the yard. You may need to carefully trim with a hedge trimmer or weed whacker to remove tall turf heights underneath some tree species and other desired foliage areas.

Step 2: Drench Dominion 2L

Dominion 2L is a liquid insecticide containing the active ingredient imidacloprid 21.4%, which is labeled to treat pests such as black vine weevil larvae around trees and shrubs. As a systemic formulation this product will safely eliminate the larvae without harming trees and shrubs as long as instructions are followed on the product label.

Determine how much Dominion 2L to use by calculating the square footage of the treatment area. To find this, measure the length and width of the treatment area in feet and multiply (length X width = square footage). Apply uniformly as a drench around the base of tree at the rate of 0.1 to 0.4 oz. of Dominion 2L per 10 gallons of water per 1,000 sq. ft. The drench application for shrubs is 0.1 to 0.2 oz. of product per 10 gallons of water per 1,000 sq. ft. Direct application to the root area. To protect your tree trunk and shrub insert a plastic or other type of barrier that will stop the solution from reaching the root zone.

Fill your hose-end sprayer with the appropriate amount of Dominion 2L, but do not add water. Attach the filled hose-end sprayer to the end of your garden hose until secured. Spray the required amount of water to evenly-mix the solution. Once this solution is mixed you will spray the root zone until wet, but not to the point of run-off.

Step 3: Broadcast Supreme IT

Supreme IT is a broad-spectrum liquid insecticide that eliminates over types of pests, including adult black vine weevils. Once applied, this products active ingredient bifenthrin 7.9% works to paralyze the black vine weevil leading to death. This product also provides a long-lasting barrier treatment keeping pests such as black vine weevils away from treated areas for up to 90 days.

With a hose-end sprayer, broadcast this product across your lawn at the rate of 0.25 to 0.5 oz. of Supreme IT per gallon of water per 1,000 sq. ft. Determine how much product to use by calculating the square footage of your treatment area. Measure the treatment areas length and width in feet then multiply together (length X width = square footage).

Pour the measured amount of Supreme IT into the hose-end sprayer tank, but wait to add water. Attach the filled hose-end sprayer tank to the end of your garden hose. Once attached, spray the appropriate amount of water until solution is well-mixed. Spray the top and bottom of leaves until wet, but not to the point of run-off.

Retreat your property when 90 days have passed from the first application to eliminate adult black vine weevil activity.

Do not apply this product to crops.

Prevention

Once you have successfully eliminated black vine weevils from your property, you will want to ensure these pests do not return. Refer to the following preventative measures to keep black vine weevils away from your lawn.

• Prune overgrown tree branches, leaves, and limbs to avoid shade and moisture from overhanging branch. This will also encourage new plant growth.
• Adjust the levels of moisture in your yard by watering with no more than an inch of irrigation once a week in the early morning. Watering in the early morning will help give the foliage enough time to soak in the moisture before black vine weevil emerge in the night to feed.
• Improve drainage in yard by directing rain gutters away from plant bed areas and foundation of home. Repair leaks and other moistures in the interior of home to deter black vine weevils from coming inside during hot or dry conditions.
• Remove or cover container grown plants with appropriate plastic sheeting during the night.
• Take note of areas with past black vine weevil activity and rearrange plant beds to avoid overwintering pests and larvae.
• Make insecticide applications such as Supreme IT in the evening at least several hours before dark.
• Mow when your turf has reached a height of 3 or 4 inches to disturb egg sites and potential black vine weevil activity.
• Seal crack and crevices around home with caulk to prevent black vine weevils from traveling inside.

Key Takeaways

What are Black Vine Weevils?

• Black vine weevils are a common landscape, crop, tree, shrub, and ornamental foliage pests that feed in both their adult and larvae form causing significant damages to plants.

How to Get Rid of Black Vine Weevils

• We recommend mowing your turf when it has reached a height of 3 to 4 inches. This can be following with an application of Dominion 2L around your trees and shrubs for larvae activity and Supreme IT across your lawn to eliminate and prevent adult black vine weevils.

Preventing Black Vine Weevil Reinfestation

• To prevent black vine weevil infestations, we recommend making continual applications of Supreme IT on a quarterly basis. As a moisture dependent pests it would be best to adjust watering practices, raking and trimming leaf branches and other fallen foliage, and repairing any moisture issues within home.

Black Vine Weevil Control

While drench applications are encouraged they are less effective in field applications. To treat large scale lawns we recommend using a broadcast application with a broad-spectrum and long lasting insecticide such as Supreme IT.

resources

Morning glory

Morning glory’s a warm weather annual that’s easy to start from seed. Its profuse, large flowers bloom until frost to charm a trellis or fence. Bees, moths, butterflies and hummingbirds can’t resist them!

Lea Joy from Smithville shares her tips for growing from, including Clark’s Heavenly Blue, Flying Saucer, Scarlett O’ Hara, Grandpa Otts, and a red and blue variety of Picotee.

First, she soaks the seeds overnight. Lea says she’s grown them without this step, but germination takes longer. Sometimes, she’ll start them in pots for even faster germination and to control their climate in spring’s weather swings. You want to wait until the soil warms in April to plant in the ground.

Plant in full sun and keep the soil moist until seeds emerge. If transplanting, also keep the soil moist until they establish.

Fertile, well-drained soil is great, but morning glories tolerate, and even thrive in, rocky, poor soil.

Morning glory is a vigorous, fast-growing vine that must have a trellis, fence or other climbing support.

Each flower lasts just one day, but new ones open the very next morning to attract bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies.

Lea reports that she doesn’t water her morning glories, since rainfall is usually enough, but when times are dry, certainly, give morning glories a deep soaking.

Lea collects seeds once the pods dry but others that fall to the ground may re-seed the next year.

NOTE: seeds are poisonous so keep out of reach of children and pets if soaking seeds overnight or storing them.

Water, Wildlife, Zen Design

Permaculture meets hospitality at Cosmic Coffee and Beer where Paul Oveisi created sustainable gardens and wildlife habitat set around ponds and gracious waterfall. Step into a meditative journey and Japanese pond design based on Zen philosophy at Rajat and Lisa Agarwal’s garden, members of the Austin Pond Society. In San Marcos, Dawn Houser cultivates food, | watch episode →

Front Yard Forward

For a 1930’s Tudor-style home, landscape designer Kim Beal goes for casual style with formal lines in shady gardens where seasonal flowering joins evergreen textural foliage to define outdoor living destinations. In Kyle, after 12 years in theater management, Leigh’Ann and Jordan Andrews turned the spotlight on a dream cultivated since grad school: growing healthy | watch episode →

July To Do List

Plant: ornamental wildlife

Plant: food crops

• Okra, eggplant, peppers, corn sweet potato slips, pumpkin, summer winter squash, watermelon
• Texas AM AgriLife Extension Vegetable Planting Guides (Central Texas) http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/travis/home-landscape/edible-gardens/growing-vegetables/
• OKAY to prune red oaks and live oaks until February. Spray immediately with clear varnish.
• No need to apply pruning paint to other trees
• Dead head flowering plants
• Last chance to cut back fall blooming perennials (like aster) that are setting buds
• Foliar feed flowers and vegetables with liquid seaweed
• Bougainvilla with high nitrogen
• Container annuals
• Citrus with high nitrogen fertilizer like Citrus-tone. Fertilize every few weeks through growing season.
• Watch for aphids and spider mites. It’s easy to spray them off with a hard blast of water. Be sure to get the undersides of the leaves.
• Aphids and other insects can plague crape myrtles and other trees in summer (“raining trees” are due to the honeydew secretions). Blast with water hose on regular basis.
• Aphids and other insects can create sooty mold on plants, a fungus that develops from their secretions (honeydew). Wash off the culprits and the leaves. Remove damaged leaves to the trash (not the compost pile).
• Keep the lawn mower setting up to high. Keep the roots cool by leaving the grass long. Don’t remove more than 1/3 of the top at a time. Leave clippings on the lawn to naturally fertilize.
• Start planning the fall garden. Clean up debris in the vegetable garden. Late month, apply compost to future beds

Other tasks

• Solarize areas where you want to kill grass or weed pests for future planting
• Collect seeds from summer blooming plants. Clean off the chaff and let dry indoors. Store in jars, envelopes, or paper bags (not plastic) to plant next spring.
• Deeply water new plants. Even if rain comes, check the soil to 3” deep to make sure their roots have water. A brief shower doesn’t mean it penetrated to the roots.
• Keep a garden journal to note bloom times and insect habits.
• Prune herbs often to encourage new growth
• Water fruit and nut trees deeply to avoid fruit drop-off
• Avoid over-watering perennials and annuals in hot, humid conditions. To avoid root rot, check soil moisture. Water deeply and then let dry out.

What to Do About Kudzu

It’s no secret that there is a kudzu problem in the South. It covers the ground, buildings, trees, you name it! Kudzu crowds out native plants, greatly reducing your habitat potential. In this Habitat at Home feature, we talk to two of Conserving Carolina’s kudzu experts — David Lee and Max Howes — to find out what you can do if you have a kudzu problem on your land.

Identifying Kudzu

Kudzu is a perennial vine generally identified by the three broad leaves at the end of each protruding stem. Kudzu leaves are huge, sometimes growing to be seven or eight inches long! It can grow up to 1 foot per day – easily out competing other plants in its path. While kudzu was originally brought over from Japan to be used in erosion control, it has a fairly poor root system when it comes to holding land in place.

Catch It Early!

Our Trails and Land Management Coordinator, Max Howes, who leads our volunteer group the Kudzu Warriors, says that the best way to remove kudzu is to prevent its growth in the first place. “Try to eradicate kudzu before it becomes a bigger problem—look for small infestations and treat immediately before it has the chance to spread. Even just removing it off the trees is better than letting it go untouched.”

How to Dig Up the Kudzu Crown — and Kill the Plant

Mechanical control just means using your body or tools to remove the plant! While this method may be the most time consuming, it can be the easiest on the environment. Make sure you do it right – or you will be pulling kudzu in the same spot next year! Here is what Max recommends:

“The key is to remove the crown, not the entire root! Follow the vine to the ground and dig there. The crown is a bulb-like feature at the top of the root system which holds the energy of the vine. If you remove the crown, the vine will die and there is no need to dig up the remaining taproots which can be quite long. Cut the vine above and dig around the crown to remove it from the taproots. When kudzu is growing along the ground, it can develop multiple spots where it may send down taproots (and eventually form a second crown if it’s old enough) so be sure to follow the vine to where it no longer runs on the ground. This method is effective though it is labor intensive and can be slow.”

Mowing—or Goats

Max notes, “Repeated mowing can also kill kudzu eventually, though one needs to be persistent with this or it is just a short term solution.” Goats essentially act as mowers with hooves—so the same goes for goats.

Should You Use Chemicals?

The most effective methods of removing kudzu typically involve both chemical control and mechanical control. However, chemicals can potentially be harmful to the surrounding environment.

There are various schools of thought about best practices for the use of herbicide in controlling kudzu. We try to err on the side of caution. When we treat kudzu with herbicides, we always factor in the following:

• The plant itself: Kudzu is a legume, so we use an herbicide that is targeted to kill legumes. This greatly reduces the impact on other plants.
• The surrounding environment: Conserving Carolina strives to use herbicides that are least harmful to people and the environment, which generally means aquatic herbicides—that is, herbicides that are approved for use in bodies of water.
• The method of application: Due to the steep terrain and large size of most kudzu infestations, the most effective method is often through spraying the foliage (leaves) of the plant. Generally this is done multiple times throughout the growing period, usually summer and fall. Alternatively, if you are digging out kudzu crowns, you can spot-spray any portion of the crown that may have broken off underground.

There are a lot of considerations, so consult a professional to help you choose an herbicide for your specific situation. Always follow the directions and safety precautions on the label! Or, hire a qualified landscaping professional.

How Much Kudzu Are We Talking About?

The best way to control a kudzu outbreak depends, among other things, on the size of the infestation. Whether you have a little kudzu or a lot, it’s important to act as soon as you can to keep it from expanding. Our Natural Resources Manager, David Lee, offers this advice:

• For small patches and newly infested areas, start with mechanical control such as hand pulling and digging out and removing the root crowns. If the kudzu is growing in an area that can be mowed, persistent mowing from May to October each year will eventually kill the kudzu. Follow up mechanical treatment with herbicide by spraying the foliage of re-sprouts, or cutting the tops of the root crown and painting herbicide directly on to the cut surface.
• For larger areas overtaken by kudzu, goats are a great option. Persistent grazing of the area during the growing season will control kudzu. If goats are not an option for you, start by controlling the perimeter of the area—hold the line! Mowing, hand-pulling, or herbicide can be used to prevent the kudzu from spreading. Work your way closer and closer to the center each year. If you have the ability, controlling the entire area each year with herbicide may be your most effective approach.

An Integrated Approach

While any attempt to remove kudzu can be helpful for the overall health of your land, the most effective way to successfully eradicate kudzu is through integrated pest management (IPM). IPM is a combination of removal methods — mechanical, chemical, and biological (through the use of goats or beneficial insects) and should be implemented for several years. While not an easy task by any means, this combination of methods should eventually reduce or eradicate the kudzu on your land.

Tips and Demonstration by the Kudzu Warriors

In this video by AmeriCorps member Pat Barcas, members of Conserving Carolina’s Kudzu Warriors volunteer crew demonstrate how to successfully manage a kudzu infestation.

Volunteering is Free Training

Our volunteers prove that controlling kudzu is tough but not impossible. In fact, one of our volunteer groups, the Kudzu Warriors, has restored large sections of Norman Wilder Forest that used to be solid kudzu! Other volunteer groups take on invasive plants throughout our region. Our volunteers say there are many benefits, including the knowledge that you’re contributing to something greater than yourself and the camaraderie of working together. They also point out that it’s free training so you know how to manage invasive plants on your own land.

Professional Services

For advice on managing kudzu on your land, you can call your local Cooperative Extension office. The Extension is a public agency that provides personalized land management support.

In addition, here are some professional services that offer environmentally sensitive kudzu management. We are not endorsing these services; please do your own research before deciding to hire anyone. This list is not intended to be exhaustive. If you know of other businesses that specialize in environmentally sensitive invasive plant management, feel free to let us know.

Interested in improving habitat where you live? We offer seasonal tips on how to make your yard and home a better habitat for native plants, animals, and insects. Explore more Habitat at Home topics here. You can also sign up for Conserving Carolina emails to get the latest Habitat at Home columns in your inbox.

Habitat at Home is a monthly segment dedicated to providing you with tips to make your yard and home a better habitat for native plants, animals, and insects. This month’s Habitat at Home is written by Kelly Holland.

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