How To Clean A Lawn Mower Grass Bag. DIY lawn mower bag

How To Clean A Lawn Mower Grass Bag

Summer calls for lawn maintenance and regular cleaning. Cleaning your lawn mower grass bag increases its lifespan and is crucial to ensure its proper functioning.

A lawn mower grass bag can be easily cleaned by removing all the grass clippings and debris and then following up with blowing away the dry grass, debris, and dust that remains.

Lastly, you can use a water hose to deep cleanse it to get rid of grass stains, mold, and stuck-on debris, and let it dry,

Some people may not even think about the mower bag or realize that cleaning it is important. If this is you, keep reading and follow the steps below while we cover.

How To Clean A Lawn Mower Grass Bag

Step 1: Prep The Grass Bag

The first thing you need to do is to prepare your grass bag for a thorough cleanse:

• Unplug your lawn mower and ensure it is powered off.
• Remove the bag from the mower deck. Read the user manual if you are not sure about how to do this.
• Use a waste bag to collect the leaves and grass inside the bag.
• Turn the bag upside down and shake out all the remaining plant garbage.

Step 2: Unclog The Fabric Pores

The fabric of your grass mower bag tends to get clogged due to decomposing leaves/grass. The growth of mold and fungus can also cause this.

Summers cause grass to be dry, which is why dirt/dust gather in your yard/garden. All of this can negatively affect a mower’s function. Let’s unclog your grass bag’s fabric:

• Place the grass bag upside down in a flat area.
• Use an air compressor nozzle from the leaf blower to blow on the outside of the bag. Dirt, grime, and debris stuck in pores will start to loosen this way.
• Use a lower PSI with an air compressor to prevent fabric tears.
• Turn the fabric inside out and repeat the steps above.
• Make sure to get rid of as much plant matter and dirt as you can.

Step 3: Wash The Grass Bag

Once you have removed as much dirt and debris as possible, wash the fabric bag. You can use a pressure washer set at a low PSI or a garden hose pipe.

Most grass bags are made from nylon fabric, so using lower pressure is ideal. However, if you have a grass bag made of another durable material or canvas, you can use higher water pressure.

Wash the fabric from inside and out, and pay extra attention to the inside fabric.

Step 4: Scrub The Grass Bag

Once you have watered and washed down the fabric, the next step is scrubbing. Always use a soft utility brush such as the ones used in bathrooms and kitchens to clean the grass mower bag fabric.

MTD Lawn Mower Grass Catching Bag Replacement #764-04077B

Alternatively, you can also make use of a toothbrush if you do not have a utility brush. However, it may take longer to clean with a toothbrush, and may only be best to take care of small spots.

Never use a brush with steel or hard plastic bristles, as these can damage nylon bags and make them unusable.

After scrubbing, you will want to wash the fabric again to make sure it is thoroughly cleaned.

Let the bag air dry and under sunlight before attaching it back to the mower. A dry bag will prevent mildew and mold from growing inside the mower bag.

Step 5: Getting Rid Of Stains

This is the final but optional step. Once your bag is clean, you may want to get rid of bad odors, stains, and mold. Deep cleaning should only be performed once the fabric bag is thoroughly washed and scrubbed.

Below are items you will need to create a DIY grass stain remover:

Mix the detergent with peroxide and thicken this concoction with baking soda to form a paste. Use a brush to apply the paste to the fabric and let it rest for an hour.

Repeat the process if stains are still visible. Let the grass bag dry under sunlight once you are done.

Alternatively, you can also use baking soda and vinegar paste. Once your paste is ready, start the application.

Pour some vinegar over the stain, then apply the paste to the region using a sponge or rag. Scrub until you get rid of the stains.

Also, clean the attachment area of your lawn lower where the grass bag sits using a soft brush.

Step 6: Dry It Out

Turn the bag inside out and make sure it is empty of any wet grass clips. You can leave the grass catcher in the sun or blow air on it for a fast dry. Just make sure it is fully dry before reconnecting it to prevent mold and mildew. Once you are ready, reattach the clean lawn bag.

Final Words On Cleaning Your Lawn Mower Grass Bag

Regular cleaning and maintenance ensure a longer mower lifespan and durability.

Your grass bag will work efficiently, and your mower will face no difficulty collecting leaves, grass, and dirt once you thoroughly clean your mower bag and connecting area.

Lawn Mower Grass Catcher Troubleshooting

Stopping every 5 minutes to clear the underside of the mower isn’t much fun! Grass catcher problems can be so annoying.

Troubleshooting a lawn mower grass catcher? Common grass catcher problems like clumping, clogging, uncut grass, and a grass bag that won’t fill are caused by:

In this guide, I will cover all the most common grass catcher problems and their solutions.

Very often, a bad or blunt blade is the root cause of bagging issues. Sharpening or replacing a worn blade will improve bagging performance.

The sharpening video covers safely sharpening the blade both on and off the mower. It also includes balancing the blade and torquing the blade bolt to specification.

What Is Mulching?

I live in Ireland, and it rains a lot; sometimes, it rains persistently, and if you need to cut grass, then you have to cut wet grass. Grass chute clogging is usually caused by cutting conditions but is also commonly caused by a worn cutting blade.

The blade is the business end, and it needs to be in tip-top condition.

Chute – A clogged chute can, of course, be a symptom of an underlying problem. So clearing the chute may not solve the problem. Check the chute for damage or old dry grass build-up.

Clean – Old grass on the deck can cause problems. Regular cleaning will prevent build-up and prolong the life of your mower.

Sharpening – A sharp blade will solve lots of cutting and collecting issues.

Wet Grass – It’s much heavier than dry grass, obviously, and won’t be thrown as far into the grass bag/box by the laboring engine. It also sticks to the underside of the mower, causing clogging and preventing the grass catcher from filling. Mowers don’t cut damp/wet grass very well, especially if it’s tall.

Height – How about the cutting height? It may be set too low. I know this sounds obvious, but try lifting the deck height, and if you want a tighter cut – drop the deck and cut again. Ideally, your mower shouldn’t be cutting more than an inch of grass; ask it to do more, and cut quality suffers.

Try cutting more regularly, and keep your mower deck clean and free from dry grass. Consider coating the underside of your deck with Teflon Non-Stick coating; it helps reduce grass clogging.

Tallgrass – Tallgrass is hard on a mower, especially if you’re asking it to cut the lawn tight with just one cut. Tallgrass will cause the mower to clog.

• Option 1 – Quick fix is to spray the deck with WD40; it does help, but it won’t last.
• Option 2 – Spray deck with DuPont Teflon coating.
• Option 3 – Spray the deck with bed liner, my preferred option. Works on tractors, riders, and walk-behind mowers.

Mulching

As you know, mulching blades chop grass very finely and drop it back onto the lawn, where it helps feed the lawn. Mulching blades are designed specifically for this task, but they can cause lots of clogging problems, especially if the grass is long or damp.

Mulching blades just don’t move grass efficiently because they’re not designed to. They work best when the grass is cut dry, regularly and in small amounts.

Mulching Blades aren’t designed to collect.

Mulching tall wet grass won’t work; the blade is designed to cut just small amounts of grass at a time.

Hybrid Mulching Blade

As you know, a true mulching mower doesn’t collect; its function is to finely chop and drop the clippings. This type of cutting is convenient; it’s a lot less work than emptying a grass bag, which gave mower manufacturers an idea.

The Hybrid Blade (3 in 1) – a mower blade that does it all, collects, mulches, and discharges. Well, it does an OK job, but if conditions become challenging, the quality does suffer, especially if conditions are wet.

The complaint I hear most with the 3-in-1 mulching blades – won’t fill the grass catcher. The solution – remove the mulching blade and fit a lift blade.

If you don’t want to mulch, change your blade for a lift blade; you will eliminate lots of clogging, clumping, and half-filled grass bags.

3 in 1 – The Hybrid mulching blade is kind of ok at everything.

The lift blade is also known as the 2 in 1, so-called because it bags and discharges. The lift blade vacuums the grass upright before cutting and moving clippings to the bag.

They’re designed for collecting grass and are available in low, medium, and high lift. A higher lift blade will require a more powerful engine. The lift is created by curving upwards of the trailing edge of the blade. The higher the lift, the better the bagging. If you love bagging – You need a lift blade.

Honda 3 in 1 – The Honda Hybrid mulching blade is the best in the business. Unfortunately, it can’t be fitted to other mower makes. The reason the Honda is so good at mulching and collecting – twin cut blade setup. Twin stacked blades working together allow blades mulches and move the clippings. Smart!

Grass Bag Won’t Fill

A grass bag/box that doesn’t fill has a few likely causes. The obvious ones: are clogged chute, thatched grass bag, damaged or worn blade, insufficient throttle, and poor engine performance.

Thatched – A thatched grass bag is a common problem. Mowers often get cleaned at the end of the season (well, some do), but bags rarely do. Examine your bag/box as a guide; when held to the light, you should be able to see through it. If the air can’t pass through the bag, then grass won’t be carried into the bag.

A stiff brush will remove the old thatched grass, or better, use a power washer. Cleaning – Stiff brush or a power washer does the job.

Chute Clogs – A clogged chute can be a symptom of an underlying problem. So clearing the chute may not resolve the issue. Check the chute for damage or old dry grass build-up. Grass build-up or damage to the underside of the deck can cause the grass to catch and clog.

Deck Coating – The underside of the deck should be smooth so that the grass moves freely around the deck, up the chute, and into the bag. DuPont makes a Teflon Non-Stick coating which helps reduce grass clogging.

Cleaning – Move your mower to a suitable location, as it leaves a bit of a mess. Just attach and turn on the garden hose. Start your mower to engage the blades.

Why The Grass Trailings?

Grass trailings are commonly caused by a poorly fitting or damaged grass catcher. If you find your grass catcher is damaged, consider buying a new one, they’re available to purchase with or without the metal frame.

Check if the bag/box sits correctly against the mower body. If it’s loose or damaged, the air and grass flow to the bag is compromised.

If all is well with the grass catcher, go ahead and replace your blade.​

Trailings are really annoying; check the bagger is closing snugly.

Check For Blade Damage – A defective blade can cause vibration, uneven cutting, and poor grass collection. Examine your blade, checking for damage, misalignment, or bent or broken trailing/leading edges.

Sharpening

Blades need to be kept sharp. I recommend about twice per season or more, depending on the terrain. Obviously, if your blade is dull, it can cause all sorts of problems, including blocked chute and grass catcher issues. Check out blade maintenance tools here; they make the sharpening process a ton easier.

And if you need a video on the process, it covers it here, sharpening blade on and off the mower.

Impact – When blades hit something hard, well, you know! The damage causes vibration and all sorts of cutting issues.

Bent – Bent blades can’t be repaired; just go ahead and replace them.

What Is PTO Slip?

The blade clutch or PTO (Power take-off) won’t be fitted to all lawn tractors, but it’s easy to locate; it lives right under the engine. A clutch system isn’t common on walk-behind mowers, but Honda and Toro offer them on the higher-end models.

It may be manual or electric; either way, its job is to lock the engine crankshaft to the blade deck pulley when you engage the blades on a button or lever. The clutch, like a clutch in a car, will wear out, and when it does, it causes the connection between the engine and deck to slip.

Symptoms include poor grass collection, uncut grass, and sometimes a burning smell.

PTO – Check the PTO system. The manual version is engaged by a cable. It lives on the crankshaft, right under the engine. Check that the cable is pulling the PTO lever all the way.

Fitting – Replacing the PTO isn’t difficult, but air tools would make it really easy.

Check Deck Belt Condition

Belt wear is also a common reason for a chute to clog; check the deck-cutting belt for damage and general wear tear. A new belt will transfer more of the engine power to the cutting blades and will improve the cutting and bag filling performance.

Belt types and lengths will be specific. Some brands will only work well using OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) belts; check out “Mower belt replacement.”

If you need walk-behind or ride-on mower blades, bearings, sharpening tools, etc., check out the Amazon.com link below.

Worn – A cutting deck belt that’s slipping will be less efficient at collecting.

Check the belt for proper tension, cracking, glazing, or contamination.

Damaged – Damaged belts will cause vibration and poor general performance.

A typical deck belt might last 4 – 5 years.

Check Engine Performance

It’s also worth considering, is the throttle set correctly? It should be set to fast/run when cutting. Is the engine running as it should? If the engine power is reduced, the mower may still cut well but will be less efficient at collecting.

A small-engine tractor or walk-behind mower should have a tune-up at the beginning of every season, regardless of how well it might be running.

Belt types and lengths will be specific. Some brands will only work well using OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) belts; check out “Mower belt replacement.”

Bad Gas

Old fuel is the number one cause of poor engine performance, use a gas stabilizer over the winter to help protect your lawn mower carburetor; check out “Carburetor troubleshooting.”

Tune-up – Mowers like a tune-up at least once per season.

Related Questions

How does grass catcher work? A grass catcher works by collecting the grass that is thrown into the bag by the force of the mower blade wings. The grass catcher works best when the walls of the bag/box are clear so that the forced air from the blade can pass through it quickly.

Hey, I’m John, and I’m a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience.

I’ve worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars to grass machinery, and this site is where I share fluff-free hacks, tips, and insider know-how.

Lawn Mower Not Picking Up Grass? Try These 9 Easy Fixes

One of the great things about lawn mowers are the leftover grass clippings.

Yes, you read that right. The leftover clippings are great. Now they can be a slight pain to clean, especially when they stick to your legs and shoes after taking care of your lawn on a nice day. But that’s the basic cost of doing business.

What you can’t deny is their usefulness. Clippings can be used as mulch for flower beds or in composting bins. They can also just be left where you mowed to decompose and become natural fertilizer for your lawn.

If you think of it, that’s one of the benefits of having a grass catcher bag for your mower. It doesn’t have to be there to catch grass so you can throw those clippings away. It can help transport your clippings to your flower beds or composting bins. Grass catcher bags become your easy and efficient clippings transporter.

That is, unless the lawn mower isn’t catching grass as it’s designed to.

If your mower isn’t picking up grass the way it’s supposed to, don’t worry. Below you’ll find nine easy fixes to try out on your mower and hopefully correct whatever the issues may be.

So, let’s get to fixing so your mower can get back to picking…up grass like it was designed to!

Try These 9 Fixes

The Grass Catcher Bag is Already Full

Perhaps you just started mowing or haven’t mowed enough for the bag to already be full. It doesn’t mean the bag isn’t worth checking out and making sure it is, indeed, empty.

Don’t shake your head just yet. Think about it. The last time you mowed, did you remember to empty the bag when you were done? Maybe you were in a hurry and just put the mower away and forgot to take the bag off and empty it.

Worse mistakes have been made. Also, it doesn’t hurt to check to eliminate it as a possible problem. If it is full, well, you’ve identified the problem. Now you need to empty it and move on.

The Grass Catcher Bag is Installed Incorrectly

If this is the issue, it’ll take you about five seconds to realize it. Start mowing and look at the bag. Do you see grass clipping blowing out of a section between the mower and the bag?

If the answer is yes, then you know the bag is installed incorrectly, particularly at the spot where the clippings are blowing out instead of in.

This should be an easy fix.

The Grass Catcher Bag is Damaged

If you’re doing a visual inspection of your mower before using it, you should pick up on any damage to the catcher bag as part of your pre-mowing ritual. However, the catcher bag is also an item that’s easy to overlook since it doesn’t have anything to do with starting and stopping the mower itself.

Also, it is a bag and is prone to tearing. Or it may be older and years of use and natural deterioration have caught up to it. It’s not surprising to once and a while find damage that can cause the grass to miss the bag completely.

If you do find damage, you’ll probably have to replace the bag. At a minimum, you’ll have to do a temporary repair. Either way, you’ve found the issue.

The Grass Shoot is Clogged

Here’s a good reason to clean after every mow. It’s also one of the areas often missed after a mow.

Yes, you swept up. Wiped down the mower. Emptied the bag. You did everything you were supposed to.

Mower Hack. Does your Rear Bagging push mower bag like sh!t? Try this

Maybe you forgot to make sure the grass shoot was cleared. You know, the little space that separates the underside of the mower from the catcher bag? It’s one of the easiest places for clippings to collect and, if damp, get matted down and clog the path.

If it does have grass collected in it, go ahead and clean it out and see if that helps correct your issue.

Speaking of Mower Blades

While you’re inspecting your grass shoot, take a look at your mower blades. Are they damaged? Are they installed correctly?

Blades that are damaged will work inefficiently, which means your grass will be mowed inefficiently. That doesn’t just mean a badly cut lawn, it might mean hardly any cutting at all. This would explain why you have hardly any to zero clippings being picked up. Your blades just aren’t cutting or cutting enough to pick up.

If the blades are installed incorrectly, or upside down, your mower won’t be creating an effective vacuum under the mower deck. That will prevent clippings from being sucked into the bag. The easiest way to check the installation is to visually inspect the position of the sail (the part of the blade that curves).

If it curves up toward the deck, it’s installed correctly.

If, however, it’s curving down, then the blade is cutting but naturally knocking the clipping back down to the ground instead of up and into the bag.

Uneven Ground

Are you mowing any area outside of the area you would normally mow? In other words, was your mower picking up grass just fine anytime you were mowing your nice, flat lawn but today you decided to mow a hill or ditch and now your mower is having issues picking up grass?

Well, if you’re mowing uneven ground and now having problems catching grass, it’s probably because you’re mowing uneven ground and the mower is doing what it’s designed to do.

Think of it this way. If you’re mowing a narrow ditch, for example, and the wheels on the left side of the mower are on the side of the ditch that slopes up one way and the wheels on the right side of the mower are on the side of the ditch that slopes up the opposite way, how much space do you have under your mower?

If you can imagine it, you have a lot more space under your mower than your blades would normally cut. space under your mower means less vacuum under your mower. This leads to more clippings on the ground and less in the bag.

The same goes for any terrain that causes part of your mower to be higher than another part. If the grass under the blades isn’t pretty even, you’re going to have inefficient grass pick-up.

Mower Wheel Height

How tall was the grass the last time you mowed? Was it higher and thicker than normal? Did you adjust your mower’s wheel height higher so the blades wouldn’t get bogged down or stall?

This time, though, you haven’t let the grass get as high or thick but did you lower the wheels back down since last time?

It’s another one of those things that’s easy to overlook but wheel height can have the same effect as mowing uneven terrain. If the wheels are higher and the grass is shorter, your mower will have more room under the blades. room means more clippings on the ground and less in the bag.

Wet Grass

If the grass is wet, you probably already know this is more than likely the problem you’re having. Mowers and wet grass aren’t friends and wet grass doesn’t like to be picked up.

No, wet grass likes to mat and clump and collect on the surface area under your mower deck and on the blades and in the grass shoot.

Wet grass pretty much likes to collect everywhere but in the catcher bag.

Wait until the grass dries and try again. You’ll more than likely be picking up grass with little to no issues.

Speed

Okay, your mower is running and cutting. You’ve addressed the other issues listed so far and everything seems to be just fine but your mower still isn’t picking up grass clippings.

If this is the case then you need to ask yourself does the mower sound like it normally does? When you’re pushing and mowing, does it sound the same or weaker? Are there periods where it feels like the blades may be spinning faster, then slower, then faster again? Or does it feel like it’s just slower, even though your power supply is good to go?

If this is the case, then you may have engine or motor issues (depending on the type of mower you have) or even a drive system issue. You should, at this point, consult your manufacturer’s manual for troubleshooting problems with mower RPMs and drive controls.

Conclusion

When you have a mower that’s designed to pick up grass and isn’t doing it, it’s easy to get frustrated.

However, if you walk through the nine possible issues above, you’ll more than likely find the solution is simple and easy to address without letting frustration get the better of you.

Hi there! I’m Craig, and I’m the founder of Appliance Analysts. When it comes to appliances and anything electrical, I’ve always loved opening things up, figuring out how they work, and fixing them. This website is where I share free advice from myself and our experts to help our readers solve their appliance/HVAC problems and save money. Read more

Hi there! My name’s Craig, and I started Appliance Analysts back in 2017.

My mission is to help our readers solve appliance-related issues without paying through the nose for contractors or a whole new model. I’m joining up with experts from across the HVAC, Appliance Repair, DIY industries to share free expert advice that will save you time, stress, and money.

The Lawn Mower Buyer’s Guide: Everything You Need to Know to Buy the Right Type of Lawn Mower

Not all yards are the same, and not all mowers are either.

By Roy Berendsohn Published: May 5, 2022

Nothing kills the joy of a sunny day like the wrong type of lawn mower. Fortunately, the opposite is also true. The right type of lawn mower can make cutting your lawn a pleasure.

If you know you need a new lawn mower, but aren’t sure how much mower you need or what features you might want, don’t worry. We’ve got you covered. Use this guide to select the right machine, and happy mowing.

Step 1: Walk or Ride?

The first step is the choice between two basic types of lawn mowers: riding mower and a walk-behind. Any more ground to cover than a 1/4 acre, you’ll want to ride if for no other reason than to get the lawn done faster.

First, make an approximation of your mowing surface. Simply walk off large rectangles. counting your steps as you go. Add up the areas of the rectangles. No need to get too precise here. An average man’s stride is about 30 inches and a woman’s stride is about 26 inches, or measure your own stride for the most accurate measurement.

An acre is 43,560 square feet, so one-fourth acre is 10,890 square feet. Anything above that threshold, and you’ll likely want to get a riding mower. In fact, the vast majority of people wouldn’t dream of cutting a ¼ acre of grass with a 22-inch walk mower, but we have to start somewhere. So think realistically about how much time you have to mow your lawn on a busy weekend and select your equipment accordingly.

For lawns from ¼ of an acre to 2 acres. you’ll most likely be most comfortable with a rear-engine riding mowers, light-duty lawn tractors, and residential-duty zero-turn mowers. Anything more than two acres and you’ll want a commercial-duty zero turn mower.

Step 2: Selecting Your Features

Once you’ve selected whether you ride or walk, there are two factors that will drive your purchase—your budget and your comfort. The more you spend on a mower, the more durable, versatile, intuitive, and probably, the quicker you’ll get the job done. The opposite is also true.

It doesn’t make as much difference with a small, simple yard. But the larger and more complex the yard, the more thought you need to give to selecting mower features.

Walk Mowers

We’ll begin with walk mowers. one of the most versatile cutting machines out there.

Walk mowers are somewhat like cars in that they are available with a wide range of options, all of which increase cost and complexity. Look carefully at the product’s hang tag and talk to the sales staff to get a better sense of whether the features are useful to you.

Let’s break down all the major components and what lawnmowers use them:

Drive

Look it at this way: You can push a mower, or the mower can push itself, in which case it’s either a front-drive or a rear-drive mower (we’ll get to all-wheel drive in a moment). A self-propelled mower makes your life a lot easier when mowing hills, or when you mow and bag. There’s nothing like pushing a fully loaded mower uphill to make you appreciate a self-propelled machine.

The Lawn and the Short of it

Front-wheel drive is best for level ground with a lot of obstacles. This allows you to push down on the handle, reducing traction on the front wheels and pivot into and out of corners.

Rear-wheel drive works best for for uphill mowing and sidehill mowing. Rear wheel drive works better here because when you push down on the handle going up a hill, the front tires will not lose traction.

Yes, a handful of mowers are all-wheel drive. built for homeowners who cut across washboard surfaces, sidehill mowing, steep uphill and downhill mowing that makes good of AWD. We were dubious when these mowers were introduced several years ago, but when we cut some very rough ground, we were surprised at how much easier AWD made things.

Functions

In this section, we’re talking about what the machines actually does with the grass. Mowers can mulch clippings (repeatedly cut and recut them), discharge them to the side or rear, or bag them.

Two-function is a mower that mulches and bags. Mulching is healthier for the lawn in that it returns nitrogen-rich grass clippings into the ground, but it doesn’t work particularly well for tall-grass conditions in the spring and early summer or early fall when the lawn bounces back from summer stress.

A three-function machine bags, mulches, and side discharges. Side discharging is useful for utility mowing (mowing areas with tall weeds and non-turf grasses). It also helps if the lawn gets away from you and you need to set the mower deck to its full height and take the grass down in stages.

Common Features

We’ve barely scratched the surface of mower features. These are the more common things you’ll find on your average mower’s spec list:

Deck levers come in groupings of one, two, or four. One lever is the most convenient, but it comes with a lot of linkage that adds weight and that you have to keep lubricated if you want it to work well. Two levers are a good compromise between one and four levers. Yes, these mowers have a bit more linkage than a four-lever mower, but it’s easier to get the height right. Four levers is the standard, time-tested design.

The only way to get a sense of whether you’ll like the ground speed control is to actually get your hands on a mower at a dealership, hardware store, or home center.

The control may be integral with the handle. The harder you press forward on the drive control in the handle, the faster the mower goes. Or it may be a separate lever or even a bail (a metal rod). Squeeze the lever to increase ground speed or to activate the mower’s drive system for fixed-speed mowers.

Self-propelled mowers are equipped with three types of transmissions. Hydrostatic is the most expensive and the smoothest operating. It drives hydraulic fluid past an impeller that spins an output shaft, which controls ground speed. This is your smoothest running and most reliable transmission, but it’s also the most expensive.

The typical front or rear drive walk mower uses some form of belt-and-pulley arrangement to direct power from the engine’s output shaft to a gear box on a front or rear axle (or a gear at the wheel). There are several variations of this design, but all work well and are reasonably easy to maintain and repair.

Make Your Lawn Last

Gas engines sizes run from 140 cc to 190 cc. Larger engines produce more torque and are less likely to stall in tall grass at the beginning and end of the cutting season. A larger engine also helps drive self-propelled mowers more effectively uphill.

From least-expensive to most-expensive, mower engines may be traditional side valve design, overhead valve, or overhead cam. expensive engines provide increased durability, reduced noise, and less oil consumption.

The rear wheel size of a walk mower may be larger than the diameter of the front wheels. The wheels’ increased diameter helps it more easily navigate ruts and rough ground.

Ball bearing wheels are easier to push than those with bushing-type wheels. The larger your yard, the more difficult its terrain, or if you’re hauling around a bag of clippings or clippings mixed with mulched leaves, the more you want this option.

A blade-brake clutch is a feature found on high-end walk mowers. It allows you to completely release the operator control handle without stopping the engine. That way, you can pause your mowing, move whatever obstacle out of your way and continue mowing without having to restart the engine.

Unusual Features

A range of unusual features have been introduced in the last several years to make mowing easier or the whole mowing experience better.

Some engines require no oil change. like the small gas engines made by Briggs Stratton. The feature is known as “Just Check and Add.” You just add oil periodically to replace the small amount of oil that’s slowly vaporized in the combustion process.

Need a Recommendation?

Toro’s innovations have created mowers that have power-assisted reverse and a vertical-storage design that lets you fold the handle down, tip the mower back, and store it vertically against the wall.

Front caster wheels are great for elaborately-landscaped yards that require a lot of pivoting. Front caster wheels don’t track particularly well on bumpy ground or mowing sidehills. Mowox mowers have replaced dual front casters with a single front caster wheel, perhaps the most maneuverable form of mower you can get. But Cub Cadet has been among the mower manufacturers that pioneered the use of front caster wheels.

Wash-out fittings enable you to hook up a garden hose to wash accumulated grass clippings from under the deck. A clean deck lasts longer because accumulated grass holds moisture and lawn chemical residue, which causes deck corrosion. Our tests show that these fittings do help considerably, but that you still need some under-deck scraping with a putty knife.

Wide-cut mowers with decks that range from 28 to 33 inches are a fast cutting alternative to a 22-inch mower. These are still comparatively rare products made by Cub Cadet, Toro, Troy-Bilt, and Craftsman.

Finally, electric walk mowers are a perfect fit if you have a small yard (under 5,000 square feet of mowing surface) and one that’s quite manicured. However, there are three important things to keep in mind:

• Cordless electric mowers tend to have smaller decks (19 and 20-inch sizes are the most common, though a few have 21-inch decks). That means it takes you longer to mow.
• They tend to be less powerful than their gas engine counterparts. They can struggle with tall grass, wet grass, and thick grass with leaves. For intermediate mowing conditions, cordless mowers do just fine.
• The larger the lawn, the more batteries you need. Manufacturers make recommendations about run time, but that’s very difficult to do accurately. It varies widely depending on your mowing habits and the height or thickness of the grass. We recommend you buy extra batteries so that you’re not compelled to rush the cut.

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Ride Mowers

If you can afford it, a riding mower is the way to go. Don’t get us wrong, we love walk mowers (goodness knows, we’ve used enough of them over the years here). But for speed and efficiency, there’s simply no comparison with a riding mower when you’re talking a large lawn.

When looking at riding mowers, you’ll likely come across three versions—lawn tractor, rear-engine riding mower, and a zero-turn mower. Let’s break them done one by one:

Lawn Tractor

Many people start out with a lawn tractor. With a steering wheel and a front-mounted engine, these look and feel familiar. Engine size range from 18-25 HP and most come with a single cylinder with step-up models having a V twin. Some fancier models also feature engines with electronic fuel injection.

When it comes to transmissions, less expensive models tend to be lever-operated gear transmissions. But a step-up from there comes pedal hydrostatic or continuously variable transmission (CVT) operated by a shift-on-the-go hand lever. The CVT is an automatic transmission powered by pulley drive to a sealed and lubricated gear case. You know you’re spending serious money if you’re considering a more expensive tractor with a heavy-duty foot pedal hydrostatic transmission.

Finally, how much can it cut? Well, much more than a push mower. Deck widths range from 42 inches to 54 inches. To know what size you need, divide the mower deck size by 12 to get an approximation of the acreage the mower can handle. So residential-duty a mower with a 54-inch deck can mow up to 4.5 acres. That’s a lot of grass and would result in significant wear and tear on a residential-grade mower in the course of the season. Still, it could do it.

These kind of mowers range anywhere from 1,300 to 3,000.

Rear-Engine Riding Mower

Many people with larger lawns too big for a walk mower but too small for a tractor or a zero turn should go with a rear-engine riding mower. The specifications below apply to deck under the operator’s position and not rear-engine residential/commercial mowers with the deck in front of the operator.

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Most rear-engine mowers a single-cylinder engine ranging in size from 344 to 38 cc, estimated at 10 to 11 HP. The transmission is usually a CVT operated by a shift-on-the-go hand lever. Snapper’s famous rear-engine riding mower uses the company’s time-tested disc drive transmission, but a few rear-engine riders are offered with a hydrostatic transmission.

Deck sizes stretch anywhere from 30 to 33 inches, and operators use a manual hand lever for deck adjustment and deck engagement. That small cutting size also means a smaller price tag, ranging from 1,200 to 2,400.

Zero-Turn Mowers

In the last twenty years or so, zero-turn mowers have proved their worth to homeowners and landscape contractors alike. Their design enables forward speed and steering by means of dual hydrostatic transmissions at the rear wheels, each of which is controlled by a lap bar in front of the seat.

A pulley off the engine spins the impellers on the dual hydrostatic transmissions that power the rear wheels. When you move one of the lap bars farther forward than its neighbor, it acts as a throttle, allowing more hydraulic fluid to flow to the transmission at that wheel. This causes wheel to turn more rapidly than the opposite wheel, allowing you turn corners or pivot.

Power Up

Engine size can range from 452 cc up to 700 or more, with power estimated from 12 HP to 25 HP. This is powered by either a single cylinder or commercial-duty V twin, and transmissions are either hydrostatic or commercial-duty hydrostatic.

With deck sizes ranging from 32 inches to 60 inches, these mowers cut the most grass in the least amount of time. The decks are either stamped or heavy-duty fabricated, deck adjustment uses a manual hand lever or foot pedal, and deck engagement uses a manual hand lever or an electric PTO

All that grass-cutting power comes with a price, usually ranging between 1,200 to 6,000. But now, you can knock some dollars off thanks to 2023 Memorial Day sales.

Roy Berendsohn has worked for more than 25 years at Popular Mechanics, where he has written on carpentry, masonry, painting, plumbing, electrical, woodworking, blacksmithing, welding, lawn care, chainsaw use, and outdoor power equipment. When he’s not working on his own house, he volunteers with Sovereign Grace Church doing home repair for families in rural, suburban and urban locations throughout central and southern New Jersey.