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About Outdoor Power Equipment

It’s no secret that the most beautiful lawns and gardens take lots of hard work. Make your projects easier with durable and reliable outdoor power equipment from Ace Hardware. Whether you’re looking to manicure a large lawn, fight back against the elements or pressure wash your home or patio, our lawn equipment can help you keep your lawn and garden looking great all year long.

Power Yard Equipment

We carry lawn equipment that makes both small and large lawns more manageable. Selecting the right pieces can help you put the finishing touches on your lawn, while trimming your overall effort. For example, our rototillers and cultivators loosen soil quickly and remove the need for basic gardening tools like shovels or hoes. especially for large yards. These machines help kill and prevent weeds, which also saves time and money in the long run. Shop our outdoor power equipment categories to find the heavy duty tools you need for any project, including:

Lawn Equipment Accessories

Keep your power equipment in pristine condition with our attachments and replacement parts. We offer a variety of small engine parts, replacement wheels and specialty attachments to keep your outdoor power equipment in great shape. Belts, tank caps, air filters, gas cans and oil are all available to help keep your yard equipment running like new.

After you’ve found the best outdoor power equipment for your specific needs, be sure to visit our tips and advice page for more helpful ideas and inspiration.

You’ll find a number of easy-to-follow instructions for choosing and maintaining your yard and outdoor lawn equipment, including:

Lawn Mower Parts

Search and shop all the parts you need for your riding lawn equipment and Gator UTV including lawn mower blades, filters, belts, spark plugs, oil, and home maintenance kits.

Find Parts

Search part numbers and John Deere parts diagrams to identify exactly what you need to keep your equipment running smoothly.

Quick Reference Guides

As a John Deere owner, when it’s time to maintain, service or repair your equipment we have easy-to-use information sheets that keep your John Deere equipment running well.

Home Maintenance Kits

Feel confident in tuning up your lawn mower or garden equipment this season with our Home Maintenance Kits. Easily find the right product so you can DIY and save!

Looking for your Serial Number?

Finding your lawn mower’s model number and serial number is as easy as locating the identification tag on your machine. As seen in the example, the model number will be displayed below the MODEL heading (Example: Z235), and the serial number will be underlined on the top-right corner of the tag (Example: 130002).

If you’re looking for the engine number, that can be found directly on the engine itself.

Home and Garden, eat your heart out.

Get the latest on how to care for and enjoy your yard and garden. The articles and videos are informative and the ideas are amazing.

MowerPlus Mobile App

MowerPlus is the app you need to keep your John Deere riding lawn mower running well and your lawn looking great this season. The app tracks and records yard tasks and serves as a one-stop shop for seasonal care tips and maintenance activities. Know your mower and know how you mow with John Deere’s MowerPlus app.

The Right Part. The Right Price.

At John Deere, you get the value of choice for your maintenance and replacement parts for all makes and ages of machines – at any budget.

Genuine Parts

Genuine John Deere Belts Blades are your best choice for your newer machines.

Alternative Parts

Alternative Parts are an economical solution for your John Deere equipment.

The John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System

Never drain engine oil again.

We’ve changed the oil change. Revolutionized it really. See how fast and easy changing your oil can now be on 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors with the John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. Only from John Deere. Included on the E120, E130, E150, E160, E170, and E180 models.

Step One. Take it off.

Lift the hood. Make sure the engine is cool, then, twist to remove. It’s that simple.

Step Two. Twist and lock.

Grab the new Easy Change™ Canister, twist and lock into place. Make sure the arrow on your Filter System aligns with the arrow on your engine.

Step three. Done.

Close the hood and mow. John Deere recommends the Easy Change™ 30-second Oil Change System every 50 hours or at the end of your mowing season. Don’t drain engine oil ever again.

Draining engine oil is so 2017.

The engine modifications and new technologies are in. The re-envisioned oil filter with a media designed to resist breaking down in oil over time is here. The thousands of hours of testing are done. The end result is an all-in-one, oil and oil filter system like no other. The first of its kind. And thanks to the new John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System (“System”), you’ll never have to drain the oil from 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors again.

Here’s why: The new System captures contaminants and recharges your engine with nearly a quart (0.8qt) (0.76 l) of new oil. In fact, this System increases the amount of oil in the engine by nearly 40%. 2 Your engine likes that.

What do you mean, I will never have to drain oil from my engine again? How is that possible? The answer is simple. We have developed a better filtration system and filter design for our 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors 1. This fully synthetic filter media has greater surface area which increases its capacity to hold harmful contaminants. What’s more, the filter media is designed to resist breaking down in oil over time. Which means you’ll get a cooler running engine. And a cooler running engine and better filtering helps increase engine oil life. John Deere’s recommended oil service for 100 Series Riding Lawn Tractors 1. is to change the System every 50 hours or once a season, whichever comes first. Remember, the System replaces a portion of your engine oil. And that’s plenty.

The System uses John Deere Turf-Gard™ Oil. Using John Deere Turf-Gard™ Oil ensures you are using the exact oil specified by John Deere engineers.

Testing. Testing. Testing. Thanks to thousands of hours of rigorous and extensive testing, you can feel confident your engine will run for years to come.

1 The John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System is available on E120, E130, E150, E160, E170 and E180 Lawn Tractors today.

2 Compared to similar V-Twin engine models that do not have the John Deere Easy Change™ 30-Second Oil Change System. That includes equivalent Deere 2017 models and 2018 models without the System.

Frequently Asked Questions:

What is new with John Deere Riding Lawn Equipment?

We are excited about the exclusive John Deere Easy Change™ 30 second oil change system. Exclusive to John Deere and only available on certain models of the new 100 Series Lawn Tractors. These tractors are designed for ease of use for both operation and maintenance. The John Deere Easy Change™ System (“Easy Change”) allows the user to easily complete the recommended engine oil and filter maintenance in 30 seconds.

What is this new oil change system?

We changed the oil change. The all-in-one oil and oil filter system gives the owner the ability to change a portion of the oil and the filter in less than 30 seconds.

What happens to the rest of the oil in the engine when the Easy Change system is replaced?

The Easy Change system replaces.8 quart of oil. The remaining oil in the engine is refreshed by the charge of new oil included in the replacement Easy Change system. Combined with 40% more engine oil capacity, improved filtration and cooler running temperatures which help extend oil life, it is no longer necessary to remove and dispose of all the oil in your engine during service.

What makes the Easy Change system unique from other filters?

It is not just a filter. It is a newly developed technology system that allows a new “filter” to come already charged with oil and allows you to remove an existing filter and the contaminants inside without tools and without making a mess. Beyond the filter, technology within the canister and on your engine makes this possible.

Models with the Easy Change oil system use a fully synthetic filter that has more capacity to trap and hold contaminants. The larger surface area of the Easy Change canister acts like a radiator helping the oil to stay cool.

Does the Easy Change system somehow decrease the life of the engine?

The John Deere 100 Series lawn tractor models, with and without Easy Change, are specified for the same lifetime and are rigorously tested to the same standards to ensure the life of the tractor meets expectations.

Can I add the Easy change system to an existing tractor?

Because this system also requires unique features within the engine, the Easy Change system cannot be added to an engine that was not equipped with it at the factory.

Can I change all the oil if I choose to?

You could if you wanted to. There is an oil drain plug. It is not required for maintenance.

How often do I need to change the Easy Change canister?

Every 50 hours or once a year. The 100 Series Lawn Tractors with and without the Easy Change system have the same maintenance schedule.

What type of oil is recommended?

We recommend only John Deere Turf-Gard™ 10W30 Oil. The Easy Change canister comes pre-filled with John Deere Turf-Gard™ 10W30 oil.

How do I recycle the old oil?

Many local government recycling programs, authorized retailers, auto repair stations, and auto parts stores will puncture and recycle used oil filters and oil.

Do I ever need to add oil?

Yes. Consistent with our service recommendations for this product, you should check oil level daily and add oil if required.

A smoking lawn mower is never a good sign. Whether the smoke is blue, white, or black, here’s how to identity and address the issue without the help of a professional.

By Glenda Taylor and Bob Vila | Updated Sep 24, 2020 1:40 PM

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs.

Q: Recently, my mower started billowing smoke when I powered it up, so I shut it off immediately. Why is my lawn mower smoking? And is it a fire hazard? I want to know how to proceed so I don’t harm the machine.

A: Your lawn mower can emit smoke for numerous reasons—many of which don’t require the services of an expert. A homeowner can usually identify the reason for a smoking lawn mower by gauging the color of the Cloud coming around the engine, then fix it accordingly before lasting damage occurs. Keep in mind that all mowers with internal combustion engines contain the same basic parts, but the configuration of those parts varies widely, depending on manufacturer and model. Consult your owner’s manual if you’re unsure how to access a specific part of your lawn mower’s engine.

White or blue smoke may indicate an oil spill on the engine.

If you’ve recently changed the oil in your mower and the engine is emitting white or blue smoke, it’s possible that some of the oil spilled onto the engine. Similarly, you could’ve spilled oil on the engine by mowing on a slope greater than 15 degrees or tipping the mower on its side. The smoke may look disconcerting, but it’s completely harmless. Solve the problem by restarting the mower and allowing the spilled oil to burn off. If you tip the mower often for cleaning or maintenance, check your owner’s manual to determine the best way to reduce the risk of oil leaks.

An overfull oil reservoir may also cause white or blue smoke.

Ensure you didn’t overfill the mower by checking the oil level with the dipstick located on the reservoir. To do this, remove the dipstick cap, wipe off the stick with a rag, and reinsert it into the reservoir. Then remove the dipstick once again and determine the oil level in comparison to the recommended “fill” line on the stick. If the level is too high, drain the oil (consult your owner’s manual for instructions), then refill the reservoir with it. Start checking the oil level with the dipstick after you’ve added about ¾ of the amount recommended in the manual. Continue to add small amounts of oil until the level matches the recommended “fill” line. Also note that using the wrong grade of engine oil may cause blue or white smoke. Consult the owner’s manual for the exact type of oil recommended for your mower.

Black smoke may indicate that the mower is “running rich,” or burning too much gasoline.

Your lawn mower’s carburetor regulates the ratio of gasoline to air mixture. If the carburetor isn’t getting enough air, the mixture has a higher percentage of gasoline, which can create black exhaust smoke. It’s possible that a dirty or clogged air filter is preventing sufficient airflow into the carburetor. Try replacing the air filter. (Note: air filters vary by mower model; view example air filter on Amazon.) Next, run your lawn mower for a few minutes. If the black smoke still appears, the carburetor might need to be adjusted in order to increase airflow. Either take the mower to a professional or adjust the carburetor yourself with instructions in your owner’s manual.

Take your mower to a repair shop if necessary.

If the previous steps don’t correct blue or white smoke, your mower could have a more serious problem, such as an air leak in the crankshaft (the cast iron or cast aluminum case that protects the moving parts of a mower’s engine). Continuing blue or white smoke could also indicate that some of the engine’s components or seals are worn out and need replacement. Similarly, if black smoking still persists after you’ve replaced the air filter and adjusted the carburetor, you could be facing a more serious mechanical issue. All of these problems require the help of a professional. If your mower is still under warranty, check with the manufacturer for the location of the nearest servicing dealer; problems stemming from a factory defect or poor workmanship may garner free repairs. If your mower is not covered under warranty, a reputable small-engine repair shop should also be sufficient to get the job done.

Why Are Lawn Mowers So Loud? Causes solutions

Yea, I hear ya, the sound of a mower at full tilt, especially early in the morning can feel like an attack on the senses. Surely if they can make a truck quiet, they can make a mower quiet, right?

So why are their lawnmowers so loud? Mowers are loud because mufflers fitted to most engines are a cheap basic type known as – Absorptive type mufflers, they create very little gas flow restriction which is great for power but bad for noise.

Manufacturers could make a mower less noisy, but they don’t because they don’t want to sacrifice cost and engine power.

The Outdoor Power Equipment Institute (OPEI) which is the association of outdoor equipment makers, decided voluntarily back in 1974 to set a noise level target of 95dcb for mowers.

Noise Source and Solutions

Although the engine makes most of the noise you associate with a mower, a surprising amount comes from a spinning blade, much like the blades of a helicopter cutting through the air. Next time you see an electric mower stop and listen, most of the noise you hear is the blade cutting through air and grass. Electric mowers are not as quiet as you might think.

Anyhow mower noise comes from four main sources, listed below are possible solutions for excessive noise. If looking to go below 20 decibels, I suggest a donkey.

Exhaust/Muffler – Exhaust heatshields become loose and baffle inside become loose also. To test, give the muffler a tap with the handle of a screwdriver and listen for the tell-tale rattle.

Check your Muffler for damage, these guys get very hot and are prone to cracking and corrosion.

You already know mowers cause lots of vibration, and stuff just comes loose, that’s why it’s a good idea to check over your mower regularly looking for loose stuff. The baffles live inside the muffler and sometimes break free causing a thin metallic-sounding rattle. Mufflers get really hot and vibration can cause them to crack. They can be repaired by your local muffler shop.

Gaskets – Gaskets are used to mate the muffler to the engine. They create a seal, and as you can imagine when it breaks down you get lots of noise and fumes. Gaskets are easy to replace.

Blade Noise – Blades make a surprising amount of noise. Blade tips cut through the air at over 200 mph and most lawn tractors will have 2 and maybe 3 blades.

Bare Metal – The underside of mower decks is just painted. Debris thrown against the deck resonates like a bell.

You can DIY this one, at the auto parts store you can buy spray-on bed liner which adds sound deadening and metal protection to your deck.

Just make sure the deck is clean and dry before painting outdoors. You can check out a video on that subject right here.

Also, try sticking sheets of self-adhesive bitumen car sound deadening material in a few places on the deck topside. You can pick these up in an auto parts store. Sure it might look a little odd, but it does help.

Engine – Obviously the engine is a major contributor to noise levels. Valves, rockers, camshaft, crankshaft, and especially the fan (located on top of the engine) can be considerable. There are things you can do to help minimize the noise. Valve lash should be checked and adjusted every year, it doesn’t take long. Not only will it cut down on noise, but it’ll also give you more power and better gas mileage.

Engine Fan – Most small engines don’t have coolant they are air-cooled and so they need a fan to pull cool air across the engine, and fans are noisy.

Check out “Valve lash adjustment”, it’s for a walk-behind mower, but the process is the same for any OHV engine. Engine oil is another opportunity to help reduce noise. When oil gets old it gets thin which causes engine ratel. Your mower needs a tune-up at the beginning of every season. Check out “Tractor mower tune-up”.

Valve Lash – Valvetrain will be noisy if there’s excessive lash.

Of course, your engine may rattle because it’s worn, if you think that may be possible, try using a thicker oil or try Lucas oil treatment, it’s great stuff, you will notice a quieter engine, I promise. The engine fan is needed to cool the engine, so it’s got to stay. But try putting self-adhesive bitumen on the underside of the hood, really does help reduce noise.

Body – Body panels, deck linkages levers, etc. will rattle and squeak as the engine and blades cause them to vibrate. Greasing all-metal deck arm contact points will reduce noise, spraying with WD40 will help also.

Check your hood and seat rubber stops, replace them with a DIY fix if needed. Run a blade down some old rubber hosing, great for pushing onto the edge of a rattling hood, MacGyver style.

Linkages – Keep all the metal-to-metal links well-greased, it helps dampen rattling and squeaks. Check that the rubber hood and seat stops are in place.

Muffler Types

The two main types of exhaust mufflers are – Absorptive mufflers and Reflective mufflers. Most mowers are fitted with the less expensive absorptive type muffler. So what is the difference between the cheap one and the more expensive one? Design, materials used, and execution.

Absorptive Mufflers

An absorptive muffler is a very basic muffler, probably the one fitted to your mower. It doesn’t use any clever engineering, it does a poor job of noise reducing. It will usually incorporate a spark arrester, which is a mesh screen that catches any sparks that might exit the engine.

This muffler causes a very little restriction to gas flow which is great for power, that’s why racing cars are so noisy. This type of muffler is fitted to most lawnmower engines.

Reflective Mufflers

Reflective mufflers or resonators – Engineered to kill noise using clever acoustic engineering. Sound waves are pushed through perforated baffles in resonating chambers where some noise is canceled out, known as Destructive interference. Special acoustic suppression temperature resistant material (not unlike rock-wool) is sandwiched between the chambers and the exhaust outer casing, this further suppresses noise.

The larger the muffler the quieter the motor, that’s why high-end luxury cars have very large mufflers. The downside to this type of muffler is flow restriction – the baffles and chambers cause restriction to the flow of gases which in turn causes backpressure, and backpressure reduces the power of the engine.

Super Quiet Lawn Mower Mufflers

Here’s a possible solution it’s the Super Trapp Quiet Muffler, I haven’t used it so I can’t comment first hand, but doing some research, it seems to do the business. Check out the YouTube video below. The Super Trapp is a Reflective muffler type, it uses witchcraft and wizardry to make an engine as quiet as a cricket.

Mufflers – Some makers do a better job than others, John Deere mufflers do a first-class job.

Lawn Mower Louder Than Usual

Mowers create a lot of noise and vibration, the engine and spinning blades set up vibrations that over time will start to pull your mower apart. A lawnmower can make many different types of noises, they can be squeals, squeaks, constant howls, cyclical noise, or just a general harsh roughness. Some noises are just impossible to describe and I know describing noises may not be useful to some.

What is useful, is to see when the noise is present, is it present as soon as you start the mower, or only when you are driving, or maybe only when the blades are engaged. This kind of detective work will help you find and fix the problem quickly.

If you need a new muffler check out the Amazon link below.

Check

If you feel your mower is louder than normal, you can check a few of the more common noise sources. Some of these won’t apply to walk behind mowers but most will.

• Oil level ok?
• Blade(s) loose (cyclical noise)
• Muffler or brackets loose (loud roar/rattling)
• Muffler gasket leaks (loud roar)
• Muffler cracked or broken (loud roar)
• Hood loose or contacting the body (rattling)
• Seat brackets loose or rubber bushing worn/missing (rattling)
• Debris caught in the drive line (cyclical noise)
• Belt pulley bearings worn (harshness/howl)
• Blade spindle bearings worn (harshness/howl)
• Belt worn/damaged (cyclical noise)
• PTO clutch worn (harshness/howl) (Tractor/Ride-on)
• Deck carrying arms loose/dry (rattling)
• Wheel bearings dry (squeal/Squeak)
• Steering dry (squeal/Squeak)
• Transmission worn (harshness/howl)

This isn’t a complete list, and as you can imagine there are many possibilities, but these are the more usual causes of noise.

Blade Spindle

Blade spindles transfer the power to the blades. They are bolted to the deck and have bearings on top and bottom to provide smooth spinning.

The bearings wear out and can cause a howling roar when the blades are on. The bearings can be replaced, but often replacing the whole spindle makes more sense.

Pulleys

Pulleys are used to drive and route belts around the chassis. Most will have bearings and they’re the ones that cause trouble. They’re a common source of noise.

Generally, if you have a worn-out belt, then chances are one or more pulleys are also worn, and vice versa. Pulleys are fitted to the driving belt and also to the cutting deck belt system.

Most pulleys employ integrated bearings but some are replaceable.

Belt Wear

Belt wear or damage will cause a cyclical noise as the damaged area contacts the pulleys. Damaged cutting deck belts will also cause lots of vibration.

Hey, I’m John, and I’m a Red Seal Qualified Service Technician with over twenty-five years experience.

I’ve worked on all types of mechanical equipment, from cars to grass machinery, and this site is where I share fluff-free hacks, tips, and insider know-how.

And the best part. it’s free!