Lawn mower starter replacement. How to Replace a Lawn Mower Pull Cord in 6 Simple Steps

How to Replace a Lawn Mower Pull Cord in 6 Simple Steps

You filled the gas tank and put sunscreen on. It’s mid-summer, so you even set a water bottle outside for mid-mowing hydration. Then you went to start the mower, and one swift pull changed your plans for the afternoon. The cord came flying off!

Don’t worry—wear and tear can lead to a mower cord breaking, and you aren’t the first to have this happen. In fact, if you notice your lawn mower cord is frayed but hasn’t ripped, this could be part of your annual lawn mower maintenance to preserve the life of your device.

Learn how to replace a lawn mower pull cord in this simple six-step guide.

Prepping to Replace a Lawn Mower Pull Cord

For safety and efficiency purposes, there are two things you need to do prior to disassembling your mower and replacing the cord.

Identify the Type of Pull Cord You Need

Not all lawn mower pull ropes are the same: they vary in thickness and length. The wrong thickness will make starting your lawn mower more difficult to start (or could cause a jam inside your mower) if you replace it with the wrong string. Thin cords will fit, but likely rip faster than the right-sized cord.

A new lawn mower starter rope causes between 10 and 20 at home improvement stores. The majority of pull-start mowers use either a cord numbered 5, 5 1/2, or 6.

If you’re unsure which you need, bring some of your damaged rope into the store and match the size, or check your lawn mower‘s manual.

Always Let Your Mower Cool Down First

To avoid lawn mower mishaps, especially if your mower cord just tore and you’ve been running the mower, wait at least 30 minutes for the engine to cool before you start taking it apart. Never take apart a hot lawn mower.

It’s always a good idea to remove your spark plug before working on a mower. This way it can’t accidentally start.

How to Replace Lawn Mower Pull Cord (step-by-step)

At some point, all household maintenance tools are subject to wear and tear, and your lawn mower is no exception. A broken lawn mower pull cord is a pretty common problem. Today, I’m providing a step-by-step guide explaining how to replace your lawn mower pull cord.

How to Replace the Recoil Starter on a Lawn Mower

And fortunately, it is easy to get done DIY. It’s more cost effective to go that route instead of getting help from the pros.

Why Lawn Mower Pull Cords Break

There are a few common reasons why your cord may break, and it’s important to make sure that the problem is a broken cord and not that your mower’s pull cord is just failing to catch.

When a pull cord is broken, it means that the starter rope has detached from the rest of the cord.

The starter rope is the visible part of the cord. You can access it from outside of the mower. Make sure you replace it if it breaks.

Usually mower pull cords break from regular wear and tear, but your cord may have broken because:

• Tension from the crossing of the cord over itself that causes it to snap.
• Low quality material causing the rope to sever.
• Sharp points in the lawn mower that can cut the cord.

Is It Difficult to Replace Your Lawn Mower Starter Cord?

Replacing a lawn mower pull cord is a simple DIY project and you won’t have any problems getting it done. It just takes about 30 minutes.

You can find the tools you need at home or at your local hardware store. One item you’ll definitely need to buy is a new pull cord.

Best Replacement Pull Cord Kit

My Go-To Replacement Pull Cord for Mowers

Want a budget-friendly option to replace your worn or broken pull cord on your mower?

Part 5042 from Briggs and Stratton is exactly what you need for a quick, hassle-free starter rope replacement.

How Much Does it Cost to Fix the Pull Cord on a Lawn Mower?

As I just mentioned, you will have to purchase a new pull cord. There are several different types of pull cords you can buy, but as long as you have a few common tools available, this project should cost you less than 20 to DIY.

If you’re looking for an affordable DIY pull cord replacement kit, there are many available for just a few dollars on Amazon. But do you want to invest in a higher quality pull cord? If so, I recommend choosing heavy-duty braided starter rope rolls like this one. Braided rope is generally more durable and less likely to break quickly, though it’s a little more expensive.

If you buy braided rope, you can usually re-use the handle on your mower (a kit will come with a new handle).

Now, let’s go over the tools and other materials that you’ll need to replace your pull cord. Then, I’ll guide you through the process step-by-step.

What You Need to Replace Your Lawn Mower Pull Cord

Here are the tools and materials I recommend to have at hand for replacing your lawn mower pull cord:

• Vice Grips or Socket Wrench to Remove the Starter Assembly,
• Screwdriver to Hold Pulley in Place,
• Needle Nose Pliers to pull cord out of pulley and handle (optional, but nice to have),
• Knife to Cut Cord, and the
• New Lawn Mower Pull Cord

You may also want to wear some gloves just in case the starter assembly slips, and even on a small project like this I always recommend safety glasses (you only get one set of eyes!).

Again, I recommend you consider the following products for this job:

How To Replace Your Lawn Mower Pull Cord

As you’ll see below, replacing your lawn mower pull cord is pretty simple and easy.

I’ve listed all the steps of the process below. Prefer learning by video? Check out the corresponding video tutorial that will walk you through the process.

Replacing Your Lawn Mower Pull Cord (step-by-step)

Here’s how to replace your lawn mower pull cord, step-by-step.

Step 1 – Remove Your Mower’s Starter Assembly

You’ll probably find the starter assembly on the outermost part of your lawn mower. This is the pull cord housing.

Depending on the type of assembly you have, you will want to undo the screws of the starter assembly, using the necessary tools to reveal the coil where the starter cord feeds through.

Step 2 – Pull the Rope Out of the Starter

Once you’ve detached the starter from the lawn mower, you’ll see where the rope has been coiled around.

You will want to remove the entire rope from the starter, using a slow and steady motion. You want to avoid further damaging the original pull cord.

Keep in mind that the pulley may move as you do this so you will want to proceed with caution.

Step 3 – Lock the Pulley in Place Remove Rope

Using a screwdriver or any other available tools, you will want to lock the pulley in place by inserting the tool of choice between the groves to prevent movement.

You will then proceed to remove the rope from the center. You can do this by unknotting the rope or simply cutting it from the center.

Step 4 – Remove the Rope from the Handle

Cut the knot off to remove the rope from the handle. You can use a pair of scissors and some pliers to do this.

Step 5 – Install the New Pull Cord

Before you install the new pull cord, you first have to situate the pulley to where it is aligned with the hole in the starter.

This requires winding it all the way back, before aligning the two holes, then locking the pulley in place.

Next, you will feed the pull cord into the hole of the housing and pulley and begin coiling the pull cord around the pulley by rotating it.

Make sure to leave about 18 inches for the starter cord. After you’ve done this, pull the cord through the handle and secure it.

Video Walk-Through

In case you’re a visual learner, here’s the process broken down in an excellent short video from eHow:

If the cord spring is detached or bent out of place, there will be difficulties with coiling and recoiling the pull cord.

For a quick fix, use a pair of pliers to reshape the spring to its original form (which is usually a v-shape that faces in the same direction of the outer end of the spring).

Mower Pull Cord Won’t Retract

This could either mean that the pull cord has gotten stuck somewhere in the assembly, or that the assembly is broken.

The best way to figure this out is to open it up and take a look inside. It will be an easy fix if the rope is caught.

Is there a jammed assembly? You may have to recoil the cord again.

Your Pull Cord Won’t Catch When Pulled

There can be different reasons if your lawn mower’s pull cord is failing to catch. These include broken prawls, a damaged pulley system, or standard wear and tear from use over the years.

There are different remedies to fix a pull cord that won’t catch, other than replacing the rope itself, such as opening up the assembly and replacing the pawls.

You can also search your mower’s model number on MTD Parts or on HIPA for replacement parts to DIY repairs or maintain your mower.

If you need to replace the whole fly wheel assembly, you can often find these like this one on Amazon with a search for your model number and the part name.

Final Thoughts About Replacing Your Lawn Mower Pull Cord

Replacing your lawn mower pull cord is an easy DIY job. It takes less than 30 minutes, and it requires almost no new tools or previous technical know-how to get the job done.

With all the right tools, and my step-by-step replacement guide, you’ll be well on your way to replacing your lawn mower pull cord at home.

Riding Mower Won’t Start Just Clicks – Mechanics advice with pics

This is a problem that usually arises in the spring, and for most, the fix is really simple. You’ve come to the right place, and you’ll be cutting grass shortly.

So what’s the problem with a riding mower that won’t start just clicks. The most common reason for a clicking sound on a riding mower when you turn the key is a flat battery. Other possible reasons include:

Yes, it’s a long list, but you won’t have to check all of them; I’ll bet your problem is one of the first three; I have listed the likely causes in order of commonality.

If your mower won’t crank and makes no click sound – Check out “Lawn Tractor Won’t Start.”

Bad Battery Connections

Bad battery connections are very common, and by bad, I mean the power is not passing from the battery to the cables because the battery connections are loose, dirty, or damaged.

Loose Connections

Battery cables become loose because lawn tractors vibrate a lot; this is why it’s a good idea to service your mower at the start of every season, no matter how well she runs.

Dirty Connections

Dirty connections are usually caused by the weeping of battery acid at the battery poles. The acid then crystallizes, causing high resistance; it looks like a white chalky build-up on the connectors.

Cleaning Connections

To clean the connections, add a couple of spoons of baking soda and a small amount of water, and pour this onto the acid build-up on the connections and battery poles.

The soda neutralizes and removes the acid; you’ll need gloves and protective eyewear. After removing the acid, go ahead and remove the connectors and give them a good cleaning with a wire brush or sandpaper.

If you have some petroleum jelly, a small coat will prevent a future build-up.

Connector – Mower blades and engines cause a lot of vibration; bolts come loose from time to time.

Check that both connections, positive (RED ) and negative (BLACK – ), are clean and tight.

Cables – Check the cables for damage, and corrosion; mice find them irresistible.

Flat / Faulty Battery

A flat battery is a real pain in the ass. I know what it’s like; you just want to cut the grass, right? The fastest way to solve this problem is to jump-start the mower.

Leaking Battery – Check your battery for leaks before attempting to jump-start. If it leaks and it’s a sealed battery, replace it.

However, it’s usually only wet batteries that leak, so best to check your electrolyte level and top up if necessary. As you know, the acid will burn the skin and eyes, so, you know, gloves, etc.

If the acid build-up is excessive, your battery may be on its last legs, so don’t be surprised if it fails or does so soon.

But if the leaking is excessive, don’t jump-start; replace it. Batteries are easy to fit; just be sure the battery is the correct size, and the poles are in the proper places.

Jump Starting

You’ll need jump leads and any 12-volt vehicle. Most cars, trucks, and even Hybrids have a regular 12-volt battery fitted somewhere. Sometimes finding it is the hardest part. If you’re unsure of the voltage, when you find the battery, a sticker on the casing will indicate 12v.

Of course, your battery might be faulty, jump-starting will probably get you rolling, but the problem will still be there. You can test using a voltmeter test tool, which I’ve listed here on the “Small engine repair tools” page.

To jump-start – begin by connecting the positive red of the mower to the red of the car.Now connect the negative black (-) on the car to a ground (GRD) source on the mower. (Any bare metal will work)

Connect – If you are not familiar with jump-starting, you’ll find a complete guide here, “Jump starting riding mower.” Add the cables in sequence 1, 2, 3, and 4, start the mower, and while idling, remove jumper cables in reverse order 4, 3, 2, and 1.

Battery Testing

You can check the battery and alternator using a voltmeter. Batteries don’t like sitting idle; they were designed to be charged and discharged continuously. A battery that gets fully discharged will sometimes not come back to life.

Use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage, and connect red to positive and black to negative. I have listed a voltmeter on the “Small engine repair tools page.”

Test – Check battery voltage using a voltmeter – attach a voltmeter to the battery and set it to 20 volts.

If you have a reading above 12.5 volts – go ahead and attempt to start the mower; watch the voltage; a reading below 8 volts is a bad battery and needs to be replaced.

Buying a Battery

When buying batteries – wet batteries will not ship with acid. The acid must be purchased, and the battery must be filled and charged; it’s a lot of work.

I would buy a gel or maintenance-free sealed battery; these can be shipped, fully charged, and ready to roll. Check out quality common ride-on mower batteries on the Amazon link below.

Battery Charging

You’ll need a battery charger to keep your battery in top condition over winter. I recommend a trickle/Smart charger; they’re simple to use; pop on the color-coded crocodile clips, plug it in, and that’s it. Forget it till next spring, then turn the key and mow.

I’ve listed a good-quality Smart charger on the “Small engine repair tools” page that won’t break the bank.

Batteries work best and last longer when their state of charge is maintained; off-season charging is always advised. Check out “Mower winter storage video.”

Charge – Always disconnect the battery before charging. Simply connect red to red, black to black, and plug in the charger. The length of time on charge will depend on how low the battery is and the amp rating of the charger. Usually, 2-3 hours cooking time.

Faulty Solenoid

The solenoid is a large relay of sorts. When you turn the key to start your mower, a 12-volt supply from the ignition switch to the solenoid activates it. The solenoid’s job is to connect the battery to the starter motor and crank over the engine for as long as you hold the key.

EASY! HOW TO FIX a Briggs and Stratton lawnmower STARTER PULL ROPE

The click sound is the solenoid trying to work by pulling in the armature; they fail regularly, and I replace lots of them.

However, the click sound can also be made for a few other less common reasons, and without fully diagnosing, you may find replacing the solenoid doesn’t solve the problem.

Hey, if you feel lucky and don’t want to do the diagnosing part, I understand. So, if your battery is full and the cables are tight, go ahead and replace the starter solenoid. They’re cheap and easy to fit.

Check out, “Mower solenoid repair tools” it lists useful tools and parts that will help you nail the repair.

Solenoid – Solenoids are a universal fit; they give lots of trouble.

On the upside, they’re easy to fit and cheap to buy.

Where’s the Solenoid?

Often just finding the starter solenoid can be challenging; I sometimes think that they hide them for fun. If you don’t find it under the hood, try under the rear wheel, behind the gas tank, or under the seat.

The easiest way – follow the red battery cable from the battery. On some engines, the starter and solenoid will be one unit (Kawasaki and Honda engines).

Where? – Husqvarna, craftsman-like to, hide theirs under the rear wheel fender or the dash beside the steering column.

However, most solenoids will be easy to locate. Fitting is easy, but do disconnect the mower battery first.

Solenoid Test

Remove – The first step in testing the solenoid – remove the spark plug.

If, when removing the spark plug, gas pours from the spark plug hole – move on and check “Carburetor troubleshooting.”

Test – Turn the key; if the clicking sound persists – Go ahead and replace the solenoid.

If, on the other hand, the engine cranks over, move on and check for excessive valve lash.

Tight – Check the solenoid terminals; all wiring should be secure and free from corrosion.

Binding Starter Motor

The gear head of the starter motor can bind against the flywheel; this locks the engine and starter motor together. So when you hit the key, all you hear is the click sound.

Testing

Testing for this condition involves turning the engine by hand anti-clockwise. Some engines will have a cover over the flywheel; if so, try turning the crankshaft with a ratchet and socket from the underside of the engine.

If turning the motor anti-clockwise frees it up – you have found your problem, the starter motor is binding. Usually, a spray of wd40 on the starter gearhead will fix it. If you are lucky, you can get the straw of the WD40 directed at the gearhead without removing any covers.

Starters can bind for other reasons – worn bearings, worn gear head, misaligned or loose starter motor.

Binding – Starters can bind against the flywheel. To fix it – spray the starter gear with wd40 and retest. If it continues to bind, replace the gear head or complete the starter motor.

Turning the engine anti-clockwise by hand will unlock it.

Excessive Valve Lash

Engines have valves that open and close in sequence. The inlet valve allows the fuel/air mixture in. It then closes and seals the combustion chamber. After the power stroke, the exhaust valve opens and allows spent gases out.

What’s Excessive Lash?

The valve lash describes a precise gap between the valve tip and the rocker arm. As the engine wears, this gap gets bigger and must be adjusted. The inlet and exhaust valve lash will usually be different specs.

Correct Lash

When the valve lash is set correctly – you crank over the engine, the valves open, and release cylinder pressure. This allows the engine to crank over at sufficient speed to create a spark strong enough to start up the engine.

When the valve lash is out of spec, the valve is late opening which means pressure in the cylinder is too great for the starter to overcome; that’s when you hear the click sound.

Incorrect Lash

Check out “Valve lash adjusting” it’s for a walk-behind mower, but the process is identical. Adjusting lash isn’t difficult but will require an inexpensive tool called a feeler gauge. You’ll find a link to a good feeler gauge set on the “Small engine repair tools” page.

Test – If you can, place your hands on the flywheel screen – try turning the engine clockwise.

If you’re unable, you likely have excessive valve lash. Lash should be checked every season.

Lash – Adjusting valve lash requires an inexpensive tool called a feeler gauge.

Hydro-locking

A carburetor fuel supply usually consists of a fuel bowl, float, and needle. The float is, as its name suggests, a float. Attached to it, is a needle with a rubber tip.

The function of the float is to lift the needle as the fuel level rises in the fuel bowl. When the fuel bowl is full, the needle will be pushed against the fuel feed port, sealing it.

Hydro-locking – Worn carburetor float needle seals have a habit of leaking gas into the cylinder, and when the cylinder is full of gas, the piston can’t move; this is known as hydro-locking. Because the piston can’t move, the engine will often make a clicking sound as you try to start the engine.

Removing the spark plug and turning over the engine will release the gas, but the carburetor float valve and the engine oil will need to be replaced.

Other signs that your carburetor needle seal leaks are: overfull oil level; white smoke from the muffler; oil leaking from the muffler; gas dripping from the carburetor; a strong smell of gas in the garage.

Fuel Valve Solenoid

Newer model carburetors have a fuel solenoid fitted to the bottom of the fuel bowl; its function is to stop the fuel supply when you shut the engine off. So if you have this newer type of carburetor fitted, you will not likely have a hydro-locking condition.

Leaking Carburetor Valve Seal

Failure commonly occurs in the older type carburetor when the rubber needle seal wears. This results in fuel filling the carburetor and eventually entering the cylinder and crankcase.

Gas in the Oil

If you have gas in the oil, don’t run the engine; the diluted oil offers little protection to internal components. First, fix the issue by replacing the carburetor and then changing the oil.

Check out “Carburetor types” page; it lists popular mower carburetors. Check out “Carburetor troubleshooting” also for more details on the issue.

Check Oil – Too much oil is a sign that your carburetor needle seal is leaking unless, of course, you overfilled the oil yourself.

Needle – The needle wears over time; they turn pink when worn. The fix – replace the seal or the complete carburetor. Using your manual fuel valve will prevent future problems.

Faulty Ignition Switch

A faulty ignition switch can cause all kinds of problems; the click sound can be caused by a bad connection in or at the back of the switch.

Try the Wiggle Test

When turning the key, wiggle the wiring at the back of the ignition switch and see if it makes a difference. It will very often show you where the fault is. Wiring pinouts are specific to each manufacturer.

Wiggle – Try wiggling the wires at the back of the ignition switch while attempting to start the engine; you may need a helper.

Often wires come loose but do check them for corrosion.

Faulty Control Module

Control Modules are not fitted to all mowers. The function of the control module is to receive a start request from the ignition switch and to output a 12-volt supply to the starter solenoid, but only if all safety sensors are in the correct position.

Control Module Test

Control modules do fail and also suffer from loose connectors. Try the wiggle test on the connectors and check for obvious signs of water/corrosion damage. The control module will often live behind the dashboard in a plastic box about the size of a mobile phone.

Wiggle – Like the ignition switch; wires come loose, have a helper attempt to start the engine while you wiggle the wiring connectors.

Check also for damage, water, or scorch marks on the panel itself.

Faulty Starter Motor

A faulty starter can fail electrically, mechanically, or both. Electrically – the copper winding can break; brushes can break or wear out. Mechanically – the top and bottom bearings and the gear head can wear. These issues can cause the starter to bind, so all you hear is the click sound.

Testing the Starter

Checking the starter motor is easy; connect a 12-volt supply direct from the mower battery to the supply wire at the starter. An even easier way is to cross the starter solenoid as per the guide below.

If you find your starter has failed, removing and fitting a new one is simple. The starter motor for Briggs and Stratton offers a good quality starter. Be mindful that BS has two types of starter – plastic gear head or metal; check before ordering.

Starter – Some starters will have a solenoid and starter motor combined in one unit.

To test, use a jumper lead to bring power from the positive of the battery to the positive post of the starter. If the engine doesn’t crank – Replace the starter.

Common – Most mowers will have the starter and solenoid separate.

Solenoids are fitted to the body, usually under the hood.

Test – Cross a metal screwdriver from one connection to the other, as per the picture.

There will be arcing (sparking) as the screwdriver contacts the poles.

RISK OF FIRE – Keep clear of gasCAUTION THE ENGINE MAY TURN OVER – Place the mower in the park with the parking brake applied and the blade off.

If the engine doesn’t crank over – your starter is faulty; replace it.

Internal Engine Damage

If you’re still reading, I fear the worst has happened. It’s unusual for mower engines to fail completely. They’re generally well-built robust units. I have seen failures like the con rod breaking out through the engine casing; the main bearing seizing; the con rod bending; cylinder head failures.

Some of these faults can be repaired, but most are uneconomic to repair.

New Engine

On the upside, if you have a total failure, a complete engine fully built with a guarantee is available, and fitting involves four bolts, two electrical connectors, a fuel line, a throttle cable, and a crank pulley.

BS and Kohler’s engines are of great quality and ready to go. The completed job will take less than two hours. Be mindful that all engines are shipped without oil.

Failure – Total failure doesn’t happen often.A hard life, and low/poor quality oil, without doubt, increase the chances.

Related Questions

Can you jump-start a mower? A flat or bad battery is a more common fault than a starter. Try jump-starting; if your mower starts, the battery needs attention. If jump starting doesn’t work, investigate a faulty solenoid or starter.

Can a bad alternator ruin a battery? A bad alternator can ruin a battery. Alternators have two main components. A voltage regulator that monitors and controls battery charging and the alternator whose job it is to create voltage. Common problems include a faulty regulator, which damages the battery, and alternator diode failure, which drains the battery.

Symptoms Of A Bad Starter On Riding Mower

The use of a riding mower makes yard work easier, but these machines are not free to breakdowns. It could be a problem with your starter, but how would you ever know for sure?

Common symptoms will indicate if your starter is good. Riding mower starting problems include no clicking sound, grinding when the ignition key is turned, s Starter motor smoke, sometimes t The engine starts but runs irregularly or the starter motor over sparking.

Keep reading this article that reveals the symptoms of a bad starter on riding mower guides to resolving the problem.

Symptoms Of A Bad Starter On Riding Mower (Solutions Added)

Reasons for having a bad starter on a riding mower with their fixes are given below:

Symptom-1: No Sound or Clicking When the Ignition Key is Turned

If there is no sound or clicking when the ignition key is turned on a riding mower, then it is likely the starter is bad.

The starter is an electric motor that is responsible for turning over the engine when the key is turned.

When the starter fails, it won’t be able to engage the flywheel and turn the engine over, so the engine won’t start. This is why there is no sound or clicking when the key is turned.

The Fix

If the starter is bad, there are a few things to check before replacing it.

• First, make sure the battery is fully charged
• If the battery is charged, then, check the wiring leading to the starter.
• If the wiring is good, then the starter itself likely needs to be replaced.

Symptom-2: A Grinding Noise When the Ignition Key is Turned

The starter is a small motor that is connected to the battery and has a gear attached to it. When the key is turned, the starter motor engages the gear and causes it to spin and turn the engine over.

Starter motor gears can wear out and fail to engage with the flywheel. The key will grind when turned.

If the starter is bad, the gear will not be able to spin and the motor will make a grinding noise. Worn starter motor gears might also generate grinding noise.

The Fix

If the grinding noise persists when the key is turned, it is best to take the mower to a qualified repair shop and have the starter inspected.

The repair shop should be able to determine the cause of the noise and make the necessary repairs.

It is important to have the issue fixed as soon as possible, as a bad starter can prevent the engine from starting at all.

Symptom-3: A Burning Smell Coming From the Starter Motor

The starter motor is a small electric motor that rotates the flywheel of the engine, thus starting it. When the starter motor fails, it can cause the electrical components to overheat, leading to a burning smell. This is often caused by a worn-out or corroded electrical connection, a faulty solenoid, or a worn-out starter motor.

In some cases, the starter motor may be completely burnt out, and smell comes from the motor.

The Fix

It is important to diagnose the cause of the burning smell before attempting any repairs, to ensure that the proper repair is done.

Ignoring the burning smell can cause further damage to the starter motor, or even to other components of the mower.

Symptom-4: The Starter Motor Engages But the Engine Runs Erratically

Another symptom of a bad starter on riding mower is the starter engages but runs erratically for numerous reasons.

First is a loose starter motor-battery connection. Loose connections might make the starter motor struggle to start the engine and cause it to run unpredictably.

The starter motor may be damaged and not turning the engine over. This can be caused by a worn armature or brushes that don’t connect the starter motor to the engine.

The last possible cause is a worn starter solenoid. A worn solenoid can cause the starting to not engage or activate erratically, causing the engine to operate unpredictably.

The Fix

To diagnose and fix this issue, the first step is to check the starter solenoid. If the solenoid is corroded or worn, it should be replaced with a new one.

If the solenoid appears to be in good condition, the starter motor should be checked. If the starter motor is faulty, it should be replaced.

Symptom-5: Excessive Sparking at The Starter Motor

Excessive sparking at the starter motor for a bad starter on a riding mower is typically caused by a worn-out starter solenoid.

Over time, the contacts within the starter solenoid can become worn due to heat or corrosion, which can cause arcing or sparking. The arcing can also cause heat, which can damage the starter motor.

The Fix

In some cases, the solenoid may need to be replaced in order to stop the excessive sparking.

It is also important to check the battery cables and connections to ensure they are properly connected and free of corrosion.

If the problem persists, it may be necessary to replace the entire starter motor.

How To Replace The Starter Motor On A Riding Lawn Mower?

This repair guide shows step-by-step how to replace a riding mower’s starter motor.

Step-1. Take the Battery Out.

• 01. Separate the battery
• Cool the engine down.
• Place the tractor in a level location and engage the parking brake.
• Use work gloves to safeguard your hands.
• Place the tractor in a level location and engage the parking brake.
• Turn off the ignition and remove the key.
• Lift the seat.
• Remove the bolt connecting the negative cable to the battery and tuck the cable away from the battery so that it does not come into contact with the battery post.

Step-2. Remove the Engine Blower Housing

• Lift the hood of the tractor.
• Remove the screws holding the air duct in place and pull it off.
• Turn each knob on the air filter cover counterclockwise and pull the cover off.
• Take the air filter out.
• Remove the screw from the air filter housing.
• Remove the front and back mounting bolts for the blower housing and lift it off.

Step-3. Remove the Old Starter Motor

• Remove the lower dash fastener and pull off the lower dash.
• Remove the starter motor wire mounting nut and pull off the starter motor wire.
• Remove the starter motor mounting bolts. A wire retainer comes off when you remove the left bolt.

Step-4. Install the New Starter Motor

• Place the new starter motor on the engine and use the right mounting bolt to hold it in place.
• Place the left bolt and the wire retainer, and then run the wires through the retainer. Put the left mounting bolt in place and tighten it.
• Connect the wire from the starter motor to the mounting nut.
• Put the lower dash back in place and use the fastener to hold it in place.

Step-5. Reinstall the Engine Blower Housing

• Position the blower housing on the engine and align the air diverter in the housing.
• Reinstall the blower housing mounting bolts.
• Reinstall the air filter housing screw.
• Reinstall the air filter and air filter cover.
• Reinstall the air duct and attach it with the mounting screws.
• Lower the tractor hood.

Maintaining a beautiful lawn can be a daunting task, especially if you lack the appropriate know-how and tools to handle the challenges that may crop up. Fortunately, LawnAsk is here to offer you an all-encompassing resource that covers everything you need to know about lawn care.

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