Trimmer Stalls At Idle Cause

4th December 2020

the lawn mower stalls at high engine speeds

During operation, a situation arises when, when you press the fuel mixture supply button, the unit turns not increase, but decrease. A malfunction of this nature can be caused by:

Fuel hoses for lawn mowers with filter

By etching atmospheric air into the combustion chamber;
Problems with the circulation of the fuel mixture;
Clogged breather in the fuel tank cap (cleaning the hole with a fine sewing needle);
Incorrect carburetor adjustment.

When air is leaking during the operation of the internal combustion engine, it is necessary to check the tightness of the connection of the pipes and the integrity of the gaskets in the CPG. The problem with the circulation of the fuel mixture can be solved by removing blockages in the fuel pipes leading to the carburetor. If a vacuum occurs in the tank and the fuel mixture does not flow to the carburetor, it is enough to clean the breather with a thin needle and blow it with air.

The lawn mower stalls when you press the gas

Gas key lawn mowers

Hole in the fuel cap (breather) of the trimmer

Lawn mowers fuel valve

With a similar problem, you should pay attention to the fuel valve, which, when clogged, ceases to normally pass the fuel mixture. The solution to this problem is to mitigate it with a suitable tool. In addition, a problem with the circulation of the fuel mixture may lie in a dirty valve. To do this, it is enough to blow it with a stream of compressed air.

Trimmer stalls: causes and troubleshooting

The lawn mower is a mobile, high-performance tool for beautifying home gardens and surrounding areas. With prolonged operation, due to wear of parts or manufacturing defects, malfunctions occur, which lead to the fact that the trimmer stalls or does not start. Since this tool is a rather complex mechanism, there may be several reasons why the lawn mower stalls.

Why does the trimmer stall

There are two main ways to troubleshoot problems: transferring the braid to a specialized center or solving the issue with your own hands. The first option is suitable for those who are ready to pay a “tidy” sum to restore the unit’s working capacity, and the second one for those who have basic locksmith skills and can independently figure out the causes of breakdowns and ways to eliminate them.

Currently, it is customary to classify breakdowns for which the lawn mower stalls into the following categories:

Mechanical damage to the internal combustion engine crankcase, malfunctions of the cylinder-piston group (CPG);
Breakdowns associated with the supply of the fuel mixture (air filter, carburetor);
Malfunctions due to damaged tubes, hoses, cables or ignition circuit.

Petrol trimmer stalls at idle speed

Often, when the engine speed decreases, the lawn mowers engine stalls and does not idle when restarted. The main reasons for such a breakdown include contamination or misalignment of the carburetor, as well as clogged air filter.

The petrol trimmer stalls when idling

If the optimal settings of the carburetor are violated, it is necessary to clean it and re-adjust it. Clogged trimmer air filter can be dealt with by soaking it in a solution with common household detergent for several hours. If self-cleaning did not help to cope with the blockage, then it is better to purchase a new filter element in accordance with the instruction manual.

After carrying out activities, the user for a long time will not encounter a situation when the trimmer stalls at idle and functions only when gas is supplied.

Causes of malfunction and their elimination

In order to most accurately determine the cause of a malfunction of any brand of trimmer (for example, Echo) and find out the possibility of its elimination, you need to establish at what action the device stalls. The engine can be turned off both at idle speed and at high rpm, heating up under load or immediately after starting, etc.

Trimmer stalls. how to fix the problem

The petrol trimmer is a useful tool for clearing unwanted grass from adjacent areas and large lawns. The design of this technique is quite complex, therefore, if the device breaks down, there may be several reasons. The most probable factors causing the breakdown are usually described in the user manual. Knowing why the trimmer stalls, you can try to fix the defect yourself. The most common malfunctions that provoke a stop of lawn mowers, and the possibility of repairing them with your own hands. in the material below.

If stalled after launch

If the equipment starts and stalls immediately after starting, this indicates an incorrect setting or misalignment of the device. As a result, fuel does not enter the engine evenly, resulting in significant vibration and trim disengagement. To fix the breakdown, you need to reconfigure the device according to the user’s manual.

Another likely problem is a clogged gasoline supply valve. It needs to be cleaned.

Another possible cause is a damaged fuel intake hose. Air can enter the system through cracks and holes. To solve the problem, you need to increase the engine speed in order to get rid of air bubbles that have penetrated into the device.

If stalled without gaining momentum

If the trimmer does not pick up speed and turns off, there may be several reasons. The most common culprit is a clogged air filter. It must be pulled out and cleaned, if necessary, replaced.

Another possible malfunction is related to the mechanics of the motor drive. This part of the trimmer must be thoroughly cleaned and the inner cables must be lubricated.

You also need to make sure that the cable in the carburetor has not slept. Before using the trimmer for the first time, check this structural element to ensure that it is firmly tensioned, but not tight. Otherwise, the cable may crack, resulting in costly repairs.

If stalled under load

Sometimes the trimmer stalls under load because it cannot gain momentum. This means that the cable that is taut in the carburetor is loose and slack. If you have experience in repairing this unit, the cable should be tightened.

Another cause of the malfunction is that the fuel intake hose is too tight. Under load, it stretches even more, as a result of which cracks are formed, as a result, the part deteriorates. To eliminate the breakdown, you will need to replace this element.

Preventive measures and rules of operation

In order for the lawn mower to function properly and not stall when started, it must be properly stored and operated. Compliance with the following simple guidelines will allow you to forget about problems.

When mowing grass, the condition of the cooling system must be monitored. It is also necessary to regularly clean the channels in the housing and the ribs of the starter.
Use kerosene, thinner or other detergent to clean the instrument.
Do not clean the instrument while it is hot. it must cool down before washing.
It is important to observe the recommended operating mode to avoid overheating of the engine.
If the scythe is not used within the next thirty days, the fuel must be drained, otherwise it will decompose into heavy components that can clog the channels of the carburetor.
After the fuel is drained, the trimmer should idle for a while until it turns off. This will completely get rid of the remaining working mixture inside.

To store the tool in cold weather you need:

Drain the fuel completely;
Disassemble the lawn mower, wash and clean all available accessories;

Inspect the condition of the parts, eliminate all defects that can be corrected;
Pour the prescribed amount of oil into the gearbox;
Clean the air filter;
Partially disassemble the engine, wash all moving parts, blow through and lubricate thoroughly;
To lubricate the piston, unscrew the spark plug, then use the starter to raise the piston to top dead center, pour a small amount of oil into the spark plug hole and turn the crankshaft several times.

Only by observing these rules, you can be sure that the lawn mower will work properly and will not stall for a number of seasons.

As you can see, there are many reasons for the trimmer to stop working. Most of them can be corrected by yourself using the user manual. In cases where there is no self-confidence, it is recommended to take the equipment to repair. It is worth remembering that the wrong actions can cause even more harm to the trimmer. As a result, repairing lawn mowers will cost significantly more than it would have been originally, and in the worst case, it may be necessary to purchase a new unit.

If stalled while idling

If the lawn mower stalls while idling, there could be several factors.

First you need to check the prepared fuel solution, if we are talking about a four-stroke trimmer operating on a gasoline-oil mixture. There is a possibility that it was made incorrectly. the proportions are not maintained. Because of this, the gearbox heats up, and the revolutions on the drum decrease.
Another likely cause is a clogged element such as the throttle valve, air filter, or carburetor. The specified parts need to be cleaned.
Another possible factor is misalignment or misalignment of the carburetor. You need to re-configure according to the instructions.
Observe this problem mono even when opening the air damper. In this situation, the lack of fuel for the trimmer is due to the air flow.

If the device does not have enough fuel, it works properly at high speeds or when they increase, but stalls at idle. If the root of the problem lies in the carburetor, the mower will shut off during cold start and hot start.

If stalled after gas supply

Owners of gasoline scythes quite often mention that the lawn mower stalls when you press the gas. Typically, such a breakdown occurs due to a malfunction in the carburetor. Failure in its operation can occur due to prolonged storage, use in difficult conditions, significant overload of the motor. Vibrating movements of the device during operation will become a symptom of such a breakdown.

Sometimes the trimmer will stall when you throttle because the fuel valve is clogged. This interferes with the supply of gasoline. To fix the problem, it is enough to loosen the valves. This will restore the normal fuel supply to the carburetor.

Another possible reason the mower stalls when gas is applied is a dirty breather (check valve). This part prevents the formation of a vacuum in the gas tank. If it is clogged, air does not flow, which means that fuel does not go to the carburetor. To fix the problem, you need to clean this element.

If it stalled when heated

the lawn mower often stalls when heated. It looks like this. the tool starts up, works “jerky” (not smoothly) and quickly stalls. This situation occurs due to fuel boiling in the carburetor or an incorrectly selected valve, which should not be disk, but rotary. In the latter case, if an error is found, the part must be replaced.

Damaged ignition circuit wiring or a defective coil can cause trimmer to heat up. Broken knot will need to be replaced with a new one.

Kamaz stalls at idle speed reason

It will run for 20-30 minutes at idle speed and stalls. I pump it up, start it up, it works. After that I drive normally, it works smoothly, traction is normal. If it stands for about an hour, then it starts only with the gas pedal (it used to start up as bitten). I changed the thin filter, washed it roughly, took off all the tubes (both feed and return), blown through, found nothing criminal. There is no air leaks anywhere (everything is pressurized and tested). They advised me that the valves in the low pressure fuel pump do not hold, the diesel fuel goes away, and there is not enough performance at idle.
I took off my Tnnd.

He got out with the hairpin. Replaced it (a turner familiar to me carved it). Disassembled, checked and washed out the new TNND with solarium. Here they are, old, dirty and new beautiful.

I cut out the gasket and missed it with sealant and put it in Tnnd. I also replaced the check valve on the pump. Starts up cheerfully, even in the morning and without the gas pedal. Here are just idle swims a little, either cold or hot, the run is somewhere between 600 and 650. If you give the gas a little, somewhere around 900-1000, it is already normal.

Most modern diesel engines are equipped with an injection system “Common Rail” (Common Rail).
This system is fundamentally different from the classic plunger pumps used on previous generations of diesel engines. To understand the principle of operation of the common rail and its typical malfunctions, we will briefly consider the principle of operation of this system.

As a rule, the driver of a diesel car knows that diesel fuel must be poured into the tank, and not gasoline, that the smell of the exhaust of his car differs from gasoline counterparts. This is already something, but there are actually much more differences.

The principle of operation of a diesel engine in a simple statement looks like this: fuel under high pressure is sprayed into the cylinder at the end of the compression stroke, while the air in the cylinder is compressed 16-25 times. From high temperatures during compression, small particles of diesel fuel ignite, the fuel combustion process takes place, and due to the expansion of gases, the piston moves downward making a working stroke.

In a classic diesel engine, a high-pressure stroke pump and a mechanical injector were used to inject a certain amount of fuel into the cylinder. In short, it works like this:
The mechanical injector is set to a certain opening pressure of the shut-off needle, a portion of diesel fuel is compressed by the high-pressure pump, when the pressure generated by the pump reaches the opening pressure of the injector, fuel is injected into the cylinder. Distributed fuel injection, each cylinder has its own injection pump section and its own nozzle.

In common rail systems, the injector is electric (it has an electrical element that controls fuel injection into the cylinder). The high-pressure pump does not distribute portions of fuel and does not determine the amount of fuel to be injected, but simply pumps fuel under high pressure into a common distributor (rail) common to all cylinders from which the fuel pipes diverge through the injectors. From this design, the name of the common rail system arose (common rail).

The injection system is controlled by the ECU electronic unit using engine sensors, this unit receives information about the engine condition (engine temperature, cylinder position, the amount of air entering the engine, pressure in the intake manifold after the turbine and other data). In the common rail system there is a rail pressure regulation system, to determine the causes of our malfunction, we will consider it in more detail.
The high-pressure pump must create pressure up to 1600 bar (in the latest systems), but the maximum pressure is created only at maximum engine power, and at partial loads and idling, the pressure required for normal engine operation is much lower, therefore, there are pressure control elements in the system and rail pressure control elements. The rail pressure is measured by a fuel pressure sensor. Pressure regulation is carried out by the metering unit of the pump together with the fuel pressure regulation valve mounted on the rail, or only by the metering unit of the high-pressure pump. The metering unit or fuel pressure control valve is an electromechanical device that allows the engine control unit to maintain a predetermined pressure in the system by relieving excess pressure into the fuel return line. Structurally, pressure control valves do not have fundamental differences depending on the version, they can have a mesh filter of the smallest particles, different shapes and seals.

Now let’s talk tightly about our problem. Stopping the engine on the move in such systems can occur for several reasons.
1. Fuel does not enter the high-pressure fuel pump (with this malfunction, restarting the engine will be difficult or impossible).
2. The control unit does not receive the signal required for the operation of the system from the crankshaft position sensor. (when this malfunction occurs, the engine cannot be started).
3. Inability to regulate high pressure within certain limits. (with this malfunction, the control unit determines that the specified pressure in the rail cannot be set by the system and stops the engine, however, when you try to start again, the engine starts and runs normally).
As a rule, the most common reason for stopping the engine on the move at some frequency is the third reason.
Symptoms of this behavior, in addition to stopping the engine, may be accompanied by the inclusion of a light indication of errors in the control system (the check is on, the spiral is flashing). If the control system DTCs are set, errors related to the pressure control system can be received, which sound like a malfunction of the pressure control valve, high pressure in the fuel line, low pressure in the fuel line, high pressure control limit and other similar DTCs. The fact is that the algorithms for determining the malfunction of the pressure control system differ from the manufacturers of common rail systems and therefore such a bunch of different errors, moreover, with a high degree of probability, it is impossible to determine the faulty node in the system and the DTC in this case is only a hint to the diagnostician in which area has occurred malfunction and which systems need to be checked.
So what could cause such a situation and what should be checked first!
1. Leakage of the high pressure system. Due to their design features, common rail injectors discharge a small amount of fuel into the return line during operation. With the wear of the injector elements, the amount of fuel discharged into the return line increases and eventually reaches such volumes that the system is not able to maintain the required pressure in the rail. To check the nozzles for draining, there is a simple test that can be performed by a diagnostician, and with some skill, this test can be carried out independently in your garage. Details of the test can be found on the Internet; it has been described many times by mechanics and owners of diesel cars. The same category includes a malfunction of the emergency pressure relief valve. On some systems, a mechanical valve can be installed on the rail, calibrated for an opening pressure of about 1800 bar. During normal operation of the system, the valve is constantly closed, but in some cases, due to contamination, the valve does not close tightly and, in all engine operating modes, fuel flows into the return line, as a result of which the ECU detects a discrepancy between the control parameters and the measured pressure in the rail.

Mechanical failure of the pressure control valve, contamination of the particulate filter on the pressure control valve.
This reason is much less common. Due to wear, the pressure regulating valve is seized. This can only be detected by connecting the scanner to the car and comparing the set pressure values with real ones, but subject to the exclusion of other problems in the system. A particulate filter is not installed on all high-pressure regulators, and to inspect this filter, you need to dismantle the valve and at least a magnifying glass, because the filter holes are so small that it is almost impossible to see them with the naked eye. As a rule, a clogged microparticle filter indicates wear of the fuel pump, the presence of chips on the filter indicates that the pump has driven the chips, that is, intensive wear has begun due to an increase in the gaps of rubbing pairs. Some car owners and repairmen remove the filter from the valve allowing the car to work until the complete death of the fuel pump, but as a rule, with this approach, injectors also die, which significantly increases the amount of repairs.

A not uncommon reason for which for the time being is not paid much attention is not the tightness of the low pressure fuel system. Many cars with common rail systems are equipped with booster pumps in the tank to deliver fuel to the injection pump and maintain the required volume and pressure of about 0.5 bar in the fuel supply system. If the system is not tight, air enters the fuel. Some of the cars are not equipped with an electric booster pump and problems with the leakage of the low pressure system affect starting. But in any case, the air in the fuel disrupts the normal operation of the injection pump, which leads to pressure surges in the system, which the ECU cannot fend off. There is one more point that should be noted. On diesel engines, a return loop system is often implemented, that is, fuel from the return line enters the additional inlet of the fuel filter and returns to the high pressure pump, this is implemented to heat the fuel at the inlet to the high pressure fuel pump. So, if the return pipes are not tight, air enters the pump, which leads to the same consequences as air leaks at the supply.

We have tried to consider some of the typical malfunctions occurring on diesel vehicles equipped with a modern common rail system, leading to engine shutdown. Of course, there may be other malfunctions with similar symptoms, often requiring equipment experience and time to identify them. For the correct diagnosis of a malfunction, it is necessary to contact a specialist, unfortunately spare parts in modern cars cost a lot of money and diagnostics by replacing a good one with a new, not cheap occupation. Therefore, come to us, to RSV Service, for diagnostics! The question you have been struggling with for a week can take us 15 minutes and you will receive full information about your car’s malfunction and repair methods, without wasting money and time.

P.S. Time passes, everything changes, surprises.
In the winter of 2017-2018, we encountered an interesting fuel defect. The customer made a complaint about the machine:. “the engine stalls, when driving for a short time, when the gas pedal is pressed, it does not stall at idle speed”. Diagnostics showed: there are no errors, all systems are operating normally, no prerequisites or malfunctions were found. What to do! A slight bewilderment, we check everything again, carefully, we change the fuel filter (although it is not old, 2 km of mileage, there is no water in it), we check the fuel filter, from start to finish check the electronics. there are no complaints about the hardware and brains! We look “what’s in the tank?”, the liquid is clear (clean. clean), there are no suspensions, no impurities. Consistency, viscosity. watery! Smell! This is where the interesting begins. kerosene! The outside temperature drops below 10 degrees, everything falls into place, the car starts well, works, does not stall.
Conclusion: fuel with a lot of “antigel” additives, frankly diluted with kerosene, pure kerosene. in a diesel engine at temperatures above “-4” behave “strange”, not usual for the driver and service, because Property valued for “winter” fuel makes “bearish” service and spoils everything when the diesel engine is running, at an air temperature of about “0” degrees. Most likely, there is a temperature regime at gas stations in which the fuel poured into the tank should “correctly” work, but we do not always pay attention to this information. Be careful, in transient weather conditions, the physical properties of fuel can play a cruel joke with your diesel!

Best regards RSV Service! Good luck on the road! Fill fuel carefully at filling stations. Check the temperature range of additives and “winter” varieties offered at gas stations. To the transition of the weather in “”try to run out of fuel “winter”, and reduce the addition of additives if you are using them.

For the operation of an internal combustion engine, two conditions are necessary. the timely supply of the fuel-air mixture and the ignition spark. At the same time, for complete combustion of fuel, a certain proportion is required, that is, for 1 kg of fuel, about 14-16 kg of air is needed.

As long as these conditions are met, the engine starts easily, runs smoothly at idle, has excellent throttle response and full power output, against the background of economical fuel consumption.

If these conditions are violated, the engine starts poorly, idles unstably, or stalls, and also loses power and runs with high fuel consumption. Plus a stalled engine on the way can provoke an emergency, for example, when overtaking.

A situation when a car engine stalls can be caused by several reasons:

Fuel is not supplied, or gasoline has run out;

Fuel pump failure;

Crankshaft and camshaft sensors are faulty, or their power supply circuit is broken;

Rotation of the crankshaft liner;

Jump or breakage of the belt, timing chain;

ECU malfunction;

Throttle position sensor;

Exhaust gas recirculation valve malfunction;

Air leaks in the vacuum brake booster;

Melting or cracking of the catalyst grid.

When there is no fuel flow, or there is no spark, then when trying to start a stalled engine, it will not show signs of life at all, that is, it will not even try to grasp it. If the engine does not start after 2-3 attempts, then you should not force it, but you need to find the cause and eliminate.

If there was a sudden stop of the engine and the engine did not “twitch” before that and did not increase the speed, which is typical for fuel failures, then the following most likely happened:

Breakdown of the coil or ignition module;

Breakage or jump of the timing belt;

Breakdown of the additional resistance of the runner in the distributor;

Hall sensor or crankshaft sensor defective;

The gap between the contacts in the distributor has disappeared;

Breakdown of the distributor cover;

The center wire jumped out of the distributor cover or the ignition coil socket;

Poor contact in the ignition circuit or oxidation.

It is worth adding here that a sudden stop of the engine can be caused by the cranking of the connecting rod bearing, or by the seizure of the main one, which causes a wedge.

The reason is that the oil pump either did not give out sufficient pressure in the line, or the oil had already exhausted its resource and was no longer able to hold the oil wedge between the rubbing friction pairs. This, in turn, caused overheating and seizure of the liner, or its rotation.

In cases where, before stalling, the engine worked in jerks, twitched, then the reason lies in a disruption in the fuel supply, which can be caused by such reasons as:

Clogged fuel filter;

The fuel pump or its supply circuit is faulty, one of the valves may fail in the mechanical pump;

Drop in pressure in the fuel rail;

The injectors “pour”, or are heavily soiled and unable to supply the required amount of fuel.

In addition to fuel problems, similar symptoms of the engine before stopping can be caused by the catalyst grill melting or cracking when the exhaust gas passage is almost completely closed.

If the recirculation valve fails, especially when it gets stuck in the open position, the engine will be unstable, and it may stall at idle.

If the throttle position sensor or the absolute pressure sensor is faulty, the control unit does not understand what mixture the engine requires, while giving out a signal for too much or too little fuel supply, which causes the engine to stop.

Stopping the engine on the move can also be caused by a failure of the speed sensor, which is an error for the ECU and the unit can give a command to stop the fuel supply.

The most primitive and at the same time common reason for stopping the engine is poor fuel quality, which clogs both the filter and all elements of the fuel system.

If any signs of unstable engine operation appear, or its frequent stops, it is recommended to immediately contact a professional car service and undergo a comprehensive diagnosis of the power unit and its systems.

This will help to find the cause of the malfunction why the engine stalls and will make the operation of your car reliable and safe.

lawn mower. On hot it stalls. Probable cause and remedy

Lawn Mower Starts And Immediately Deaf Cause

The tool, in spite of its small dimensions, is a complex technical device. If you study the annotation for operation, it turns out that the prerequisites why the lawn mower does not start are known and removable. It is necessary to eliminate one by one the reasons that make it difficult to start the tool. Usually start with more accessible nodes with an easy health check.

What remains for our client to do the prerequisites, why the lawn mower does not start, of course, systematize according to the specifics of the work of individual units. In a car service, malfunctions are systematized:

The user first needs to check if there is fuel in the tank. Carry out the start-up in accordance with the annotation, putting the saw on its side. Set the air damper to the “closed” position, pump up fuel, turn on the ignition and make 3-4 sharp jerks with the starter. If the engine is running, open the air damper. The lawn mower does not start. we repeat the operations with a slightly open air damper.

the lawn mower is not allowed to work for a long time. The gearbox and engine will overheat. Mows have an option of less than 15 = 20 minutes, taking a five-minute break. On a hot afternoon, working hours are cut in half. When mowing weeds, sedges, the working time must be reduced.

Petrol trimmer stalls at idle speed

Often, when the engine speed decreases, the lawn mowers engine stalls and does not idle when restarted. The main reasons for such a breakdown include contamination or misalignment of the carburetor, as well as clogged air filter.

The petrol trimmer stalls when idling

After carrying out activities, the user for a long time will not encounter a situation when the trimmer stalls at idle and functions only when gas is supplied.

Does the engine stall immediately after starting? Why is this happening

Another common prerequisite for which the trimmer won’t start is a blockage in the filter area. To confirm the hypothesis, it is enough to dismantle the indicated block and test the start-up of the unit without it. If the trimmer engine starts, most likely, you will have to create a change of the air filter or, at least, perform a painstaking purge of the old one. If there is abundant contamination of the filter element, use the latest mesh. When resorting to similar actions, it is not recommended to leave the absorbing tube completely without a filter. After all, haste in our version leads to the need to repair the entire piston group of the engine unit.

Often the engine of branded trim models stalls when the breather is clogged. The main task of the designated component is to equalize the pressure in the fuel tank. For which the design of contamination of the unit is intended, a vacuum appears here, which significantly complicates the supply of fuel. Removing the malfunction allows cleaning the breather with an ordinary sewing needle.

The reason why the trimmer starts and stalls. Trimmer Starts And Stalls Immediately Causes

In recent years, the gasoline trimmer has gained textbook status as one of the main tools in the arsenal of summer residents. And such actions are logical, because a motorized scythe allows you to quickly put your personal plot in order. But it happens that the trimmer does not start on hot and cool. In such situations, it is necessary to establish the cause of the malfunction without the help of others. Next, let’s figure out what to do if the trimmer won’t start. The premises that mostly lead to such troubles will be examined further.

Where to start diagnosing defects if the trimmer won’t start? In situations where the tool stalls immediately after starting, it is worth looking at the following units of the unit:

Specifically, the breakdown of the above locations for the most part leads to the fact that the trimmer does not start well. It is necessary to consider how to remove such problems.

Let’s say your trimmer won’t start. Then the beginning of everything is to check whether there is enough fuel in the tank, to additionally evaluate the quality of the fuel consistency. The motorized unit should only be refueled with high quality gasoline. It is recommended to use fuel with a grade not lower than AI-95. Filling the trimmer with fuel of unknown origin not purchased at a gas station can lead to frequent tool failures. This causes a breakdown of the cylinder-piston accounting system. Repairs under these circumstances often exceed the price of the device itself.

Why won’t the petrol trimmer start? Incorrect preparation of the fuel consistency, which consists of oil and gasoline, can also lead to this. The proportions in which the designated components are connected are indicated by the manufacturers in the trimmer instruction manual. It is highly discouraged to prepare a fuel mixture in large volumes, in other words, for the future. Indeed, with long-term savings, there is a loss of the defining parameters of the substance. If the trimmer does not start, you should drain the old fuel and use a freshly prepared fuel consistency.

Trimmer stalls: causes and troubleshooting

The lawn mower is a mobile, high-performance tool for beautifying home gardens and surrounding areas. With prolonged operation, due to wear of parts or manufacturing defects, malfunctions occur, which lead to the fact that the trimmer stalls or does not start. Since this tool is a rather complex mechanism, there may be several reasons why the lawn mower stalls.

Why does the trimmer stall

Currently, it is customary to classify breakdowns for which the lawn mower stalls into the following categories:

Mechanical damage to the internal combustion engine crankcase, malfunctions of the cylinder-piston group (CPG);
Breakdowns associated with the supply of the fuel mixture (air filter, carburetor);
Malfunctions due to damaged tubes, hoses, cables or ignition circuit.

Trimmer ON COLD does not start well, what to do?

What to do if the used fuel mixture is in perfect order, alas, as before, the petrol trimmer does not start? The prerequisites for the failure of the mechanism are variations, such as excessive moisture in the candle channel. To diagnose and eliminate the difficulty, you need to do the following:

Remove the candle. Wipe it painstakingly, and then dry it.
Drain off excess fuel in the chamber through the appropriate plug hole.
Clean an old candle if there is carbon deposits on its surface. To cope with the task will allow the use of an ordinary ladies’ nail file or a file.
To install the element in the area, set a gap of 1 mm. To check the parameter, it is enough to place any coin in the gap.
Assemble the multifunctional unit back.
Try to start the trimmer.

It is recommended to dry the candle channel at a minimum for half an hour. But do not resort to calcining its parts. After all, heating the spark plug leads to its final damage. What to do if the service of the multifunctional unit was carried out according to the above tips, but the trimmer does not start, a spark of course with all this? Here it is worth treating the threaded connection with gasoline. The latter does not need to be abundantly impregnated with fuel. It is only slightly moisturized. Such actions should be taken to ensure ignition. After all, no matter how strong a spark the candle gives, in a completely dry chamber there simply will not be anything to ignite.

Even if the trimmer does not start here, it is worth assessing the quality of the contact between the high-voltage wire and the candle. For which the design of the absence of a spark is intended (if there is a reliable connection between the designated elements), for sure, the discrepancy is caused by a breakdown of the ignition unit. In this situation, you will have to turn to the services of wizards who will reinstall the node.

The lawn mower stalls when you press the gas

Gas key lawn mowers

Hole in the fuel cap (breather) of the trimmer

Lawn mowers fuel valve

Sources:

http://hitech-online.ru/tehnika-dlya-sada/trimmer/glohnet.html
http://litezona.ru/kamaz-glohnet-na-holostyh-oborotah-prichina/
http://goldenfly.ru/stati/prichina-pochemu-trimmer-zavoditsya-i-glohnet.html

Grass Trimmer cause, does start, idle, lawn mower, stalls, trimmer