What you need a circular saw for. What to choose

Plunge-cutting saw: characteristics of circular models with guide rail. The difference between a circular saw and a regular circular saw. What it’s good for?

Submersible circular saws are expensive and found in the catalogs of only a few reputable manufacturers. But among the pros there is a lot of interest in this tool. What are its advantages over the usual circular saw?

These tools, designed for manual woodworking, have become available in our country’s market relatively recently. They are not visible when the blade is not in use, as they are hidden by a protective cover flush with the mounting base. This is to ensure the machine is accurately positioned on the work surface.

In order to adjust the depth of cut there is a special mechanism in the tool design. The specialist can use it to release the rotating saw blade. The degree of protrusion is pre-set, and the speed at which the disc is lowered can be controlled manually. When the kerf is formed, using the same mechanism, it is possible to bring the woodcutting tool back to its original state.

Plunge circular saws can have the following features depending on their design:

• Spring-loaded bottom plate. Its presence provides the ability to adjust the degree of pressure of the saw part. If there are foreign objects in the workpiece, e.g. nails, you can stop work in good time;
• tilting function of the cutting part. It is necessary when it is necessary to make products from wood with a complex configuration;
• the number of blades (varying from 1 to 2). Using a tool with two discs, it is possible to make boards of different widths, simultaneously making two cuts at once;
• auxiliary accessories. These include guide rails, which can be of different sizes and configurations.

To prevent contamination by wood dust and shavings that occur while cutting, most modern models have a socket that can be connected to a vacuum cleaner. The use of the machines in combination with the saw provides the possibility for fast, forced evacuation of sawing products from the working area.

The plunge-cutting depth can be set by a technician using a mechanism that is finely tuned and equipped with an additional eccentric. The latter is required when there is a need for smooth adjustment of the blade position within the chosen working area. That makes it possible to increase the quality of the workpiece.

Choice of plunge-cutting saw for cutting Laminated chipboard

The plunge-cutting saw is one of the basic tools needed for the full functioning of a furniture production. There are of course more functional and efficient systems for sawing Laminated chipboard. Price is nevertheless an important factor. If large furniture enterprises can afford format machines and other expensive equipment, then for “private entrepreneurs” this solution is extremely expensive and unprofitable, taking into account the volume of production. It is worth noting that a high-quality plunge-cut saw for small furniture production is the optimal solution, which allows to optimize the time costs of production.

The selection of the right plunge-cut saw is an extremely important issue. On the modern market, there are hundreds of models of such saws, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

How to choose the best model, not to overpay for unnecessary functionality and make a choice in favor of a reliable and proven manufacturer?

Specialists of our closed club of furniture makers have made an overview of the market of plunge-cut saws for Laminated chipboard and selected the best options, which are of high quality of cutting, functionality, reliability, rich equipment and affordable price.

Advantages of plunge-cutting saws over traditional circular saws

The most common and critical mistake that furniture makers make when starting out is to choose a circular saw over a circular saw. The motivation for this choice is understandable. huge savings. Nevertheless, this economy can cause a lot of problems and inconvenience at work. The most common disadvantages of the classic saw for furniture production are low cutting accuracy, frequent material chipping and questionable ease of operation.

The arguments in favor of plunge-cutting saws can be included:

High cutting precision with the claws that allow saws to be positioned accurately.

This is possible due to the location of the blade on the side of the base plate.

Maximum cutting accuracy is achieved thanks to the guide bar and the elimination of lateral play by means of eccentrics.

The classic circular saw scatters sawdust all over the room and even a vacuum cleaner can’t solve this problem. Submersible models paired with a vacuum cleaner work extremely clean, sawdust can be seen only in the ends of cuts, where the disk leaves the end point of the cut.

Submersible models have a minimum power of 1200 watts, which is enough for operational cutting of any workpieces of laminated chipboard. In addition, such models are convenient to use for processing, for example, Plexiglas and other materials.

The most popular plunge-cut saws

Members of the Closed Furniture Club have compiled the top most popular saws, based on and sales ratings:

Bosch GKT 55 GCE circular saw

This saw is one of the most popular models on the Russian market. This model refers to professional tools and has a wide range of basic functions and various additional features. Among the main positive points of the saw can be distinguished: the soft start system, the ability to adjust the speed of rotation and proprietary system, which allows you to maintain the rotation under increasing load. Also a feature of the model is the ability to perform perpendicular cutting, as well as cutting at an angle.

The advantages of the saw include:

• Superior quality of materials and workmanship. All Bosch saws are manufactured in factories in Germany;
• High quality “native” disc, which is able to provide a precise cut without splintering;
• Precise ruler setting for the best cutting depths and angles;
• The possibility to extend the warranty period from 1 to 3 years, if you register the tool on the manufacturer’s website;
• The possibility of using non-original guide bars from Makita or Devalt that are more affordable.

The disadvantages of the model include:

• The need to purchase guide bars and the need to pick up new bars with size 800, 1100, 1600;
• Inconvenient tilt angle adjustment, which is characteristic of almost all saw models.

Makita SP 6000 plunge-cutting saw

A professional tool that has flexible adjustment of the depth of cut, as well as the angle of the disc. Cutting depth is 56 mm, with a 40 degree incline the cutting depth is reduced to 40 mm.

Among the advantages of the saw are:

• Competent blade design that allows you to cut at a distance of 1.8 centimeters from walls or other obstacles;
• Good electronic equipment, including a soft start system, adjustable speed, electronic engine brake function and built-in overheat protection for the tool;
• Extremely high precision and cutting quality, which is one of the best in the class of plunge-cut saws;
• Optimal ratio of cost to quality;
• Powerful 1.3 kW at 5200 rpm.
• The weak design of the soleplate and the fastening of the sole to the base with 4 plastic self-tapping screws, which is not sufficient for a comfortable operation. Often, soleplate failure due to poor fastening does not fall under the warranty case;
• Difficulty in finding a good quality tire for this model.

MAFELL MT 55 cc MaxiMAX plunge-cut saw

A professional tool with enormous power reserves and high-precision setting of the cutting depth (1 mm). Depth of cut is 57 mm, depth of cut at a maximum angle of 45 degrees is 40.5 mm

Among the advantages of the saw are:

• Availability of a large number of additional equipment and the possibility to purchase the saws with different equipment;
• Possibility to regulate the depth of cut with millimeter accuracy even without the use of the guide bar;
• The new-generation engine is 1.4 kW, which provides a rotational speed of up to 6,250 rpm;
• Presence of stepless adjustable system of saw’s rotational speed;
• High-quality materials and workmanship. All saws of this brand are manufactured in factories in Germany.

Advantages and disadvantages of using

This tool has quite a wide range of applications. It can be used from making wooden wood products to making furniture and doing work in the home workshop. However, in order to understand the relevance of buying such a tool, it is necessary to establish what pros and cons this equipment has in operation.

The multifunctionality of hand saws can be considered as the main advantage. The availability of this tool in the arsenal of a specialist and home handyman makes it possible to perform quality accurate cuts to form workpieces. It can be easily used to cut the edges of furniture panels made of wood-fiberboard or chipboard. If, in addition to the main tool, additional accessories are available, then the specialist has the opportunity to form a shaped cut.

Advantages

Additional positive features of this machine are

• All types of cuts, both crosswise and lengthwise. The only exception is shaped machining, which is performed with a small radius of curvature.
• even weight distribution in the construction. This ensures a reduction in labor intensity of the work performed, and in addition, has a positive effect on their quality;
• working precision. It is provided due to the peculiarities of the design of these saws, as well as the precise positioning of the saw blade in the area of the future cut;

Disadvantages

The relative disadvantages that are present in manual saws, can be attributed to the high price of this tool compared to conventional models. High cost of the tool is caused by the fact that the design of the system for adjusting the position of the cutting device of the equipment relative to wooden workpieces has its own difficulties. In addition, when using immersion saws, there may be certain problems when cutting the width of workpieces, in which this parameter has an insignificant value. Its minimum size for workpieces is limited by the dimensions of the supporting part of the saw.

The plunge-cut saw has a mechanism for regulating the speed of the electric motor

This makes it possible to select the most suitable mode of operation of the tool, focusing on the configuration of the part, as well as taking into account the species of wood. The adjustment mechanism should be located in the most convenient part of the tool, so that the technician can easily change the rotation speed of the cutting part of the tool while working

Overview of the plunge circular saw brand elitech pd1255p14

With the general points we have understood, now let’s look at a specific example and model. For a general overview, let’s take the plunge circular saw elitech pd1255p14.

This type of saw is designed for cross and longitudinal cutting of wooden workpieces, and can perform cutting operations on wood, chipboard, plywood, etc.д. In addition to wooden materials, the saw is capable of working with polymers and multi-layer workpieces. It is possible to work with soft metals as well.

This tool can easily handle the following jobs:

• Cutting grooves of any complexity;
• The adjustment mechanism should be located on the most convenient part of the tool so that the operator can easily change the speed of the cutting part of the tool;
• repair of the flooring, with the removal of rotten elements;
• home furniture assembly (tabletop, corner, cabinet, etc.).д.).

High precision and clean cut is achieved by the guide rail on this model.

Complete Elitech PD 1255P14 the following set of equipment:

• String clamp (2 pieces are included in the set);
• Cutting and sawing disc;
• Guide rail. The overall size of 1400 mm;
• Restrictor cuts;
• A guide rail.

The main features of this model are:

• Dust evacuation and wedging knife allows you to work with plywood, sheet materials;
• The body is made of light alloy metal. Gears are made of high-carbon steel, hardened and machined;
• The rotor bearing is protected by an oil seal;
• Stability when sawing is given by the cast frame;

A clean cut is achieved by means of a carbide-tipped saw blade. Number of teeth 48.

How to choose a circular saw: basic features

When the time comes, many people do not know how to choose a circular saw. This tool is often used in construction and repair, so the purchase should be taken seriously.

This article tells you how to choose the right circular saw and what you need to do to make the device work well.

Learn more about circular saws and their types

For the construction of a wooden house a circular saw is practically irreplaceable. You can, of course, use an electric wood jigsaw instead, but it will not cope with all boards, and it has a low speed.

• As for the ordinary hand saw, it will work even slower.
• The main advantage of circular saws is their fast speed and cutting accuracy.
• Some people believe that you can successfully use a chainsaw, but it is not as accurate in cutting all the right parts.

The only thing for which it is good to use such a tool is for cutting boards and making firewood for the cold time.

Another option for replacement is a jigsaw. It can cut all the right materials very accurately, but this precision is not always needed in construction.

It was mentioned above that often a hand saw is taken instead of a circular saw. With it, not only will it take a lot of time, but you will have to put a lot of effort to work.

• In addition, when building a wooden house you need to work a lot of planks and slats, so a regular saw is not suitable here.
• Circular saws can not only cut the board accurately and quickly, but also fix the desired angle of cut.
• In addition, you can choose a mode in which the saw can not reach the edge of the board. this ability is equipped with the plunge-type models.

However, besides the obvious pluses, the tool has disadvantages as well. For example, the tool can only cut in a straight line.

Saws can be different, most often they are divided by motor power, cutting depth, etc. д. All these things need to be taken into account when buying a tool.

According to the depth of cut circular saws are divided into domestic (kerf depth of 50 to 55 mm), large domestic (depth of 65 to 70 mm) and professional types (cutting depth of about 140 mm).

There are very small tools, with cuts of 40 to 46 mm.

Professional saw is made with mounting holes, so the main part of the fixture can be attached to the table and just use one saw. Other options do not offer this option.

circular saws can be stationary, handheld or combination types. The first type is made together with a table, it is more powerful and faster than other types.

Manual circular type of tool is most often used by philistines. It is very well suited for sawing a large number of boards and does not require special skills. Even so, many people don’t know how to choose a manual circular saw.

Combination saws can also be table mounted.

Devices are divided by the features of the design, this includes the plunge saw. Its peculiarity is that the disk is completely hidden in a special casing, and during the work it sinks into the wood itself.

The weight of the plunge-cutting circular saw is much heavier than that of an ordinary circular saw. In addition, the saw is more bulky and costs considerably more than a conventional.

If we divide devices by power, then the usual tool consumes about 800 W of power, the average saw spends about 1.2 kW. The most powerful and large models spend more than 1.2 kW.

If you want the attachment to be self-contained, you can buy a saw with a battery. The charge usually lasts for an hour and a half, but the power is significantly reduced.

How to choose a saw?

Choosing a circular saw for your home should be done wisely, t. е. look at some important points.

Especially the depth of cut and the type of attachment should be checked. In addition, you need to know what you need the saw for.

For example, a stationary circular saw is good for splitting logs into boards, but the grooves in the bars will not make a very good quality.

It is also very important to look at the power, especially if it is a manual circular saw. It is necessary to assess your strength soberly, t. к. otherwise the tool could fall out of your hands.

In addition, you should know that the model, which has a power below 1 kW, will be very bad for sawing large pieces, and there is a probability that the disk will get caught in a board or rail.

the power also has an influence on the weight of the machine. If the power of the saw is more than 2 kW, then the weight of the entire structure will be about 10 kg. If the power is about 1 kW, the saw usually weighs 4 kg.

You should also pay attention to the depth of cut. For domestic activities, it is better to choose with a depth of about 70 mm.

Remember that bigger is not better. If you choose a saw that is too big, it will not be very convenient and nonfunctional for the average person.

You should look at the number of revolutions. the more the saw can make them, the better the cut will be.

Please note that idle speed is always indicated in the tool documents. When the attachment starts to sink, the speed will depend on the power of the attachment.

You can also look at the angle clamp. It helps to hold the saw at a 60-degree angle to the board to be cut. But more often you can find a tool that is fixed at 45 degrees.

You can pay attention to some of the extras that manufacturers supply with the tool. For example, the function of the built-in vacuum cleaner, which helps remove sawdust and dust.

In addition, you can find models with a special knife that prevents the edges of the board from closing. Meanwhile, this is a fairly common problem in sawing. when the edges close and the disk gets stuck.

Choice of circular saw. rating of the best models

Woodworking is a complicated process. The quality of the end product depends on the accuracy of cutting. Despite the complexity of the device of an ordinary circular saw, masters often have problems with installation of its cutting part relative to the work surface and the subsequent control of the sawing line.

Why do I need a circular saw??

This powerful tool is needed when it comes to many cubic meters of the material listed above and the precision of straight cuts. All circular saws are similar in design and differ in power (read “performance”), cutting thickness, and additional options that determine application capabilities, safety, and ease of operation of the tool.

Cut into the surface. Before the cut, the user sets the depth and, if required, the inclination of the blade, then turns on the saw, unlocks the “head,” plunges the blade into the wood, and drives the tool along the line. After you have finished cutting, the pressure on the head is released and the head is pulled upward by the spring.

DeWALT plunge-cut saw. First steps for the beginner. Or, ah, what should I do with it.

YuriWhite: But no vacuum cleaner can shrink 100%.

Yes, but not to the point where the chips are a layer on top of the workpiece. I agree that it may be hard for him to suck from underneath. Though, the disk saw from below upwards, so it drives the shavings upwards. But how shavings can still be on the guide bar and on the saw blade is the question. That said, Sunday was fine. Sucked in everything from above and below. And on Monday, as I wrote, even around the table fine chaff lay a layer, like dust. Distinguished only by the color. it is white.

True, I still wipe with a damp rag afterwards. I’m an aesthete

After work, I always wipe the tools with a cloth, and all around, and then wash the floor, and throughout the apartment. I have a peorator and angle grinder as if just out of the store. I’m an aesthete, too.

Yes, before working in conjunction with the planer, I had to sew a bag made of tarpaulin t.The filling speed is fantastic. And it’s better to mill no more than 3 mm at a time.to the large chips clogging up the pipe.

I have no shavings. When they do, then, yes, only 3 mm or less.

And by the way I hope you are aware of the fact that laminated chipboard uses one blade and pine uses another ?

I’m aware of the discs. But you also know that the saw comes with a UNIVERSAL DISK. I also remembered going to the DeVolt audition. So it’s the same saw, same blade, only SO OLD. I can only judge a blade by its performance on laminate. I have with the new one. super and no chips. With the old one. there were good chips. The same DeWALT saw, but with dull disk (or worn out, you know) was sawing laminated woodchip board. without effort and stops. So there’s obviously something wrong with me.

Spech: IMHO. check the voltage in the socket. Suspicious that the two new units were working fine yesterday, and today at the same time started “slacking off” from work.

Thanks for the idea, but no more checking. Next time I’ll be sure to take a look before work. I have a voltage relay in the panel and it shows it. However, I can tell you right away, too low a voltage in the evenings is very rare. On the contrary, at this time it’s always under 230 or more. Especially for this, I had to put the safety switch on the 242 only, otherwise it would chronically shut down several times in the evenings and at night. But once I saw a 180, but it was some afternoon or morning. Thanks, I will fix it.

Kotopedos: I don’t know about blades: you probably know yourself that a toothed blade is needed for chipboard but a sparse-toothed blade is needed for sawing wood longitudinally (and with different grit, angles, etc.).д.)

I’m aware of the discs. But my native one is UNIVERSAL. I’ve already mentioned that the same DeVolt with the same blade, only blunted, sawed the chipboard without difficulty (when I went to look at the saw). The DV representative also said that he hadn’t changed the disk yet, and was sawing everything with it. And I don’t need an expensive handyman.disk on laminate and chipboard? I’m more wood chipboard laminate NOT to saw.Boards Chipboard had to saw a little, because I made a workbench out of them. And the wood HARD. I do NOT need to saw, either. As far as I understand, plywood, roughly speaking, are pieces of veneer, glued perpendicular to each other in several layers. So, plywood has NOTHING that’s HARD.

please do not resent. but tried to take off and put back on again?

I’m sure I can turn the tool, but not so much that I have to take off and reinstall a new disk at once. I’m not that brave. That is, I risk working with a tool, but I don’t risk doing something that is obviously difficult. How to remove the saw blade, I understood (well, almost and vaguely). Also at the time of purchase. It’s VERY BREAKY and pretty HARD. That said, how it all worked out, I still don’t understand. Well, that is, I did NOT remove the disk itself. I got it to the point of removal. It’s horrible. I spent 20 minutes looking through the manual, jumping up and down at the saw. It’s going to drive you crazy trying to figure out how to do this spindle lock. And the disk keeps trying to slip back into the shroud. It’s a complete mystery. In general, by fiddling with the levers, I got, really, HOW?, It’s still a mystery. I have already decided for myself that, if necessary, you can level this disadvantage of the saw, just once a year visiting the service. Let them do it there. So I did NOT touch the drive (didn’t risk playing with the factory settings).

I always cut my workpieces with a trim. I need both cut edges. in good condition. That’s why I only trim. By the way, I also have a problem with the trim on my saw. I set it to 2mm., and it doesn’t seem to give me more than 1 mm. In the end, I had to set it to 3 mm. In this case, after sawing, the level of undercutting is SIGNIFICANT, stands out at the end. There is obviously something wrong.

Maybe when trimming in a gap between the saw and the workpiece and dumped sawdust. the vacuum cleaner will not be able to suck it out. the hood at this angle is not enough a little. Maybe on this?

When pruning produced a tiny chaff. I agree that it can go down. However, then when sawing, there are too many good chips right on top of the workpiece. On the right side of the saw, so it was all covered.

2 ChVA If you want, I can come and take a look.

Oh, thank God, there are knights and real men in the world! ChVA, you are a hero. Thank you, of course I do, I would appreciate it.

Maybe the problem is my fault, I do not know. Or maybe there’s something wrong with the settings? Or there really is a disc runout (well, like a figure eight on a bicycle wheel). It’s a very similar result, I can see it on the laminate. However, I (ABSOLUTELY stupid in technology) alone, to understand it is almost impossible.

On the vacuum cleaner. may be a stupid assumption, but is the hose not clogged? If the trunk comes out of it when you put it down.

The hose is NOT clogged. It’s just that these crumbs were left in the narrow nozzle when it went through, trapped in the connection with the hose. They didn’t seem to have enough suction power. The hose, by the way, inside also had to be wiped. It obviously has a problem with suction power.

It’s not clear on the saw at all. If the disc is spinning, how can it brake suddenly. Isn’t it clinging to the tire somehow?? Or maybe a wire or hose gets caught? Or there really is 180 volts in the socket? The same goes for the wavy edge, I don’t see how it can be when sawing on the tire. A regular Makita 5704 on the guide gives a straight cut.

Operating Instructions and Safety Precautions

The circular saw is a dangerous tool and requires careful handling and safety. To prevent injuries and cuts, you must follow some simple rules:

• Make sure there are no metal nails or screws in the workpiece before sawing the wood.
• Examine and repair the tool only at its full disconnection from the network.
• It is not allowed to clean the dust saw with your hands. Only use a special brush.
• It is advisable to wear safety glasses while working.
• Working slowly, carefully and attentively.
• If you need to support the workpiece, the fingers of the hand holding the workpiece must be parallel to the cutting line.

Circular saw is a very serious tool. Work with it responsibly, carefully and precisely.