Which Trimmer Is Better Patriot Or Hunter

November 25, 2013. Kulibinsk CLUB

Dear UAZovody, I bring to your attention my installation method typical snorkel on UAZ-Patriot.

1. Before you drill or try something, you must:- take a caliper and measure the diameter of the “nozzle” of the snorkel, which should go through the wing of the car.- draw a circle on a sheet of cardboard with a diameter as in a measured “nozzle”.- cut out a drawn circle in cardboard.- pass the snorkel “nozzle” through the cut-out hole.- tightly press the snorkel to the cardboard.- outline the outer contour of the snorkel in the area of ​​the “nozzle”.- cut along the contour.After performing all of the above operations, you should get this pattern like this:

Note: Holes were made on my template for snorkel fasteners. They appeared when I tried different methods for making the template. In this case they are not needed.

2. Unscrew and dismantle the right plastic wing expander.3. Slightly bend the liner and substitute some kind of emphasis so that the liner does not return to its place:

4. Inside, dismantle the decorative plastic cover on the right glass pillar.5. We measure from the beginning of the wing, along the stiffener 59 cm. And put a mark:

6. We apply the template made by us so that the right edge of the template is at our mark. 59 cm.

7. Holding the template, transfer the hole in the template to the wing of the car:

8. Using a ruler, draw two diagonals in a circle drawn on the wing of a car:

We get this “sight” here:

9. Using a drill with a diameter of 3 mm. In the center of the “sight” we make a hole:

8. We take a “crown” for metal with a diameter of 95 mm and make a through hole:

Note: Why the diameter is 95 mm. Rather than 78-80 mm. As on the snorkel “nozzle” itself. The thing is that a corrugated hose with a clamp is put on the snorkel “nozzle” and to ensure optimum reliability it is better to push them closer to the snorkel itself, and therefore the hole diameter immediately increases to 95 mm. There is one more nuance. In which direction is it better to turn the screw on the clamp? There is no definite answer to this question, but I’ll tell you a little later where to deploy it.

9. We put a corrugated hose on the snorkel “nozzle”, put the clamp on slightly, but not fully twisting it:

10. Passing the corrugated hose through the hole we made in the wing, we try on the snorkel.This is where you just need to decide where to turn the screw on the clamp. The snorkel itself (without external influences) must find its place, and we are within 95 mm. Move it up / down, forward / back. We determine the place of the snorkel on the car and, accordingly, the position of the screw on the clamp.

11. After we exposed the snorkel, we outline its position with a marker.Note: This operation wasn’t included in the photo, since the photo material was created when the snorkel was installed on the second car, but when the snorkel was installed on the third car, this operation allowed the snorkel to be installed more accurately.

12. We take 3 hairpins from the kit supplied with the snorkel, and grind them in the form of a clove:

13. Screw the sharpened studs into the bottom of the snorkel:

14. Put the snorkel in place, aligning it with the drawn contour:

15. Sharp hit the snorkel in the area of ​​installation of the studs.16. We dismantle the snorkel, and on the wing of the car we are looking for such dents here:

17. Drill with a diameter of 3 mm. Make three holes in the wing:

18. A drill with a diameter of 7 mm. Increase the previously made holes in the wing:

Note: I draw your attention to the fact that you do not need to drill through the wing, you only need to drill the first wall of the wing!19. Dismantle the sharpened studs from the bottom of the snorkel and screw them into the upper part. To the place of the turned sharpened studs from the bottom, screw the “native” studs from the kit there.20. Install the snorkel in place, having already caught the mounting holes in the lower part of the snorkel, sharply hit the upper part of the snorkel in the area of ​​the studs.Note: Before you dismantle the snorkel, I strongly advise you to look at the angle at which the studs fit to the rack, since then you will have to drill through the rack at the same angle.21. Dismantle the snorkel and a drill with a diameter of 3 mm. Make holes in the newly formed dents.22. Drill with a diameter of 7 mm. Increase the previously made holes in the right pillar of the car:Note: There are some nuances during drilling of the stand. Since the stand is a complex structure of 3 walls, so I advise you: after you have drilled two walls, take a long wrench (you can use a long nail) with a diameter of not more than 7 mm. And make a dent in the third wall. Since the third wall is the last one, the dent you created can be seen in the passenger compartment. As soon as the dent is clearly marked. We sit in the passenger compartment and bend the dent in the opposite direction. Towards the first two walls. With a diameter drill 3 mm. Make a hole in the dents from the passenger compartment. With a 5 mm drill. Increase the hole from the passenger compartment. We go again to the street and a drill with a diameter of 7 mm. Drill through the rack.

23. Using sealant to fix the thread, install:- to the bottom of the snorkel. Studs from the kit;- in the upper part of the snorkel. Studs with a length of 100 mm.

Note: The length of the long hairpins, for attaching the upper part of the snorkel, is best chosen locally by measuring the thickness of the rack and throwing 20 mm. When installing the snorkel on the first car, studs with a length of 100 mm were used. But when installing the snorkel on the second car, for some reason they turned out to be lengths.

24. Do not “take out” the snorkel borders drawn on the body, apply bitumen mastic:

25. On the snorkel body abundantly apply “push fat”:

26. Install the snorkel in place and tighten the nuts all the way.27. We remove the “push-fat” that was squeezed out during the tightening of the nuts.28. Install previously dismantled plastic products.29. We install the “fence” in place, fixing it with the clamp, also with a self-tapping screw!

Note: When you “push” the “fence” into place, I advise you to wear it not very deep, since the side slots that are on it are designed not only to compress it on the pipe, but also to drain water:

Well, that’s all.

I advise you when installing the snorkel to approach this issue calmly, without unnecessary nervousness. The body will not weaken from the holes you have made, and if you cover the bare spots with a protective compound, then it will not corrode. Do it slowly and thoughtfully. Then you will succeed as it should.

Pss: No matter how we try to install the snorkel, small cracks will still form. Therefore, after installing the snorkel, you can cover these cracks with automotive anti-corrosive plasticine or sealant. I don’t recommend lining something like porous rubber or double-sided tape, as these materials can hold moisture, which in turn can lead to the formation of corrosion (if your visor on the door is kept on double-sided tape, then I advise you to tear them off for the sake of curiosity and see what is happening under them. I’m 100% sure that we will find there. Corrosion).

Good luck to all…Thank you very much for reading my article to the end.Other photos