Wood sanding machines with their own hands
Choosing the belt
A machine with a belt is more versatile in terms of functionality: it does everything that disc models, plus many more. Immediately notice that the options of amateur models of belt grinding machines a great many.
The fact that the nature of this machine is very plastic, allowing the use of a variety of improvised materials, up to finds in scrap dumps.
The main thing is to know and adhere to three rules:
- The abrasive side of the belt must be set very precisely so that it only touches the workpiece that is being ground.
- The belt must be evenly tensioned at all times and regardless of the type of work.
- The speed of the machine should vary and should depend on one thing only: the type of workpiece and the nature of the grinding.
Disc grinder with their own hands: drawings
Makeshift disc grinder, detailed drawings, dimensions and description of construction.
Made for his home workshop circular grinding machine. Of course, for grinding, I’ve used a variety of tools before, but also decided to make a disc sander with his own hands. And here is what actually turned out:
On the expanse of the Internet there is a lot of information about the grinding machines of self-made, watch which I have learned a lot of interesting things. Some points embodied in his disk grinding machine.
I will highlight some of the features of my design. Since the idea of manufacturing grinder was born a long time before the start of his work to create, began to look for components that may be useful in its manufacture.
Such a component became an electric motor AOL-11/4 from decommissioned VU-700 (input device for entering the footplate). This electric motor at low power (120 W) is characterized by a fairly high torque rotor (22 kgfcm2). so, the presence of 3-phase voltage of 380 volts in the garage allowed me to use the technical capabilities of the motor to the maximum.
I began by measuring all the overall dimensions of the motor and the choice of its mounting. Due to peculiarities of its “origin” and previous use, the engine had only a flange mount (for the front cover). It was decided, except for the flange mounting, to make a “crib” for mounting behind the housing (as “feet” mounting were absent). Based on the results I developed the following drawings.
In addition to the characteristics, this electric motor “attracted” by the presence of the “standard” factory nozzle on the motor shaft. The use of this attachment made it possible to mount a disk for sanding sandpaper for the future of the grinding machine. I decided to use a disk with a diameter of about 200 mm.
In addition, I calculated the swivel bracket of the tilt table.
Then I began the practical fabrication. I started with fixing the motor by its flange and into the “crib” made according to the drawings. As clips for fastening I used plumbing fittings, for fastening thick plastic sewage pipes of suitable diameter.
I sawed and fastened a disk of plywood with the thickness of 20 mm on the nozzle. Right on the shaft, turning the motor into the network, and using an angle grinder with a grinding nozzle I eliminated the run-out of the disk The holes under the heads of the fastening screws poured hot melt glue and grinded flush with the front side.
To start (supply three phases of voltage 380 volts) electric motor made “starter”. Acquaintance with a range of “starters” in stores of electrical goods with a minimum price tag of 700 immediately discouraged their purchase. Having spent a pair of hours on fitter’s work and a couple of hours on electric installation (soldering), from the available “radio amateur stuff” I have made such a device.
Then, according to the drawings, with some differences in place, made the base of the grinder, a sloping table and container (compartment) of the dust collector.
When installing the motor mount on the base unit, I always considered the need for alignment (vertically and horizontally) of the disk for the sanding wheel in relation to the table.
On the disk glued sanding sandpaper (glue 88). Made (by place, without drawings) the front cover of the dust collector with a pipe for the connection of the vacuum cleaner.
Parallel to the grinding disk with a router I chose a slot under the guide ruler of the parallel stop. Made the “protractor” of the parallel stop.
Installed the “starter” in the base of the grinder. Under the “Start” and “Stop” buttons I sawed a rectangular aperture.
What kind of sander is best for finishing
Belt-disc grinding machine with their own hands: drawings, photos of manufacturing
Homemade belt-disc grinder: detailed drawings and photos of the step-by-step manufacturing of the machine.
Greetings to all! Here is time “to report” on the “creative” work done, about the construction of the belt-disc grinding machine, which is shown in the photo below.
The process began with an Internet search for industrial samples of machines of this type and the experience of other homebuilders in making belt machines. Industry offered mostly constructions made of metal and plastic, home-made designs were mostly in wood (plywood), except, of course, for the electric motor, bearings and shafts made of metal.
I decided to make my own machine, wood and metal.
Picked up the motor AOL 012/2, 2790 rpm, 120 W, operating voltage of 220/380 volts 3-phase (from the tape drive for computer equipment release late 60-ies). Certainly, it would be desirable to have more power, but for the garage “creativity” 120 W was quite enough.
Based on the motor power, I decided to use a 100×610 grinding belt, glued into a ring (100mm wide, 610mm long ring). For a belt of greater lengths, the motor power was not enough.
The electric motor and the grinding belt I selected determined the basic dimensions of my future machine. Recalculation of motor speed (at gear ratio from motor to belt drive shaft 1:1) in the linear belt speed gave the result 7.6 m/s, it fell about in the middle of the belt speed range (from 4.1 to 18 m/s), which were used by the industrial machines I had studied. I was quite satisfied with this result.
As in the manufacture of previous machines, began with the measurement of all the overall dimensions of the motor and the choice of options for its mounting. Constructive version of the motor AOL 012/2, according to the method of installation, is made with a connecting flange on the bearing plate with the feet (GOST 2479-79). It defined at once the variant of the motor fastening on the machine bed. On the basis of the results I made drawings, according to which the structural elements of the future machine were made.
The following shows the drawings and dimensions of the belt-disc grinding machine:
Main dimensions of motor AOL 012/2.
Taking into account dimensions of the electric motor, the drawing of the base (18 mm plywood) was made.
Based on a number of bearings with an inside diameter of 10 mm, an outside diameter of 30 mm and a height of 9 mm, with covers (bearing series 200, 18200, etc.), the drive and driven rollers are designed according to the dimensions of the grinding belt used.д.) it was decided to make the shafts 10 mm in diameter. When making the shafts (and other elements) it was not planned to use a lathe. The width of the rollers was selected on the basis of the used grinding belt. The design drawing of the driven and driven rollers (rollers) is as follows.
Design of “skewing mechanism” of driven roller shaft in order to stabilize belt position. See drawing of the “tilt mechanism”.
Developed the layout of the belt table, the method of tensioning the grinding belt, the mechanism for changing the belt. It was planned to fix the bearings of the drive shaft in cages made of water pipe, welded to the right and left sides of the base of the band table.
Plates of the belt tensioning unit are designed and calculated. On the previous drawing these plates are marked with the numbers 1, 2, 3 in circles.
Since it was planned to fix the belt table in two positions (horizontal and vertical) a belt table rotation unit combined with a tensioning unit for the drive belt is designed. It was planned to use a toothed belt (positioned by the seller as a drive belt for a tool), 10 mm wide and 450 mm long (rings), turned with teeth outward, as a drive belt.
Belt grinding machine: study and do it yourself
Belt grinding machine is used in those cases where it is necessary to perform finishing processing of parts, that is, as equipment for the implementation of finishing technological operations. Most often such machines are used in the furniture industry, with their help perform processing of parts made of wood of different species. But it is possible to use a belt-grinder and for processing metal parts, which applies a belt with the appropriate abrasive material.
Belt grinding machine with their own hands without turning work
Makeshift belt sander made without welding and turning work, a detailed description of making a homemade with a photo.
Belt grinding machine, a thing quite necessary in the home workshop. For its manufacture requires turning and welding work, but not everyone can find a welder and a lathe in the garage. As an option, you can get by with a simpler design where turning work is not required.
How to make a belt sander with their own hands?
If you can not lay out a sufficiently large sum of money for a decent version of the drum grinding machine, you should try to make it by yourself. For a person who is not bad at mechanics, this is not too difficult a task. In addition, this way you will be able to save significant monetary resources.
In order to assemble a drum grinding machine at home you need to get hold of the following parts:
- Grinding drum. A cylindrical shape fixture can be created on the basis of “trash” building materials. For this purpose, they often use even pieces of wooden bars, which are evenly attached to a special metal axis with glue. Pay special attention to the tightness of these bars to each other. Also, the drum can be made on the basis of PVC pipe with a diameter of up to 10 cm, which is put on an iron rod with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm. It should be slightly shorter in length than the rod itself. In the ends of the pipe insert special plugs with holes for the rod. We recommend that you secure the plugs with screws. Threading and fastening the rod. On the tube we wind a dense layer of rubber, on which the sandpaper will be attached.
- The motor. The best way is to use the work motor from an old washing machine (like pulleys, belts, etc.). д.). The optimum power for the motor should be between 200 and 300 W. The motor should preferably also be asynchronous and single-phase. Speed level 2000-3000.
- Housing. It must be simple and handy by design. Ideally machine body should consist of two side panels, spacer and the table itself. Special attention should be paid to the strength and rigidity of the worktable, which should not deform when the workpiece is pressed onto the drum. The work table should consist of a base and a moving part.
Once the main parts of the machine are assembled individually, you can proceed to the final assembly of the entire machine. First attach the motor to the bottom of the machine housing in place of the pre-drilled holes. The grinding drum is installed in the upper part of the housing and fixed to the two bearings, which are located on the side walls of the housing.
It is worth noting that the independent creation of a drum sander also does not do without certain costs. First of all it concerns your time, but the machine will cost you cheaper than the factory one, only if you have a working motor. Without the motor and certain skills it is almost impossible to create a cheap analogue of a brand-name machine.
Designing. the initial stage
Different models of sanders allow you to process all kinds of wood materials.
Before you begin to make a homemade wood sanding machine, it is important to determine for what purposes it will be needed.
The technical parameters of the tool will depend on this:
- The performance of the device is influenced by its power. For home use, 400 watts will be enough. High performance is provided by machines with power up to 1 kW.
- Grinding quality is influenced by the rotation speed of the working tool. The maximum figure is 3 thous. revolutions per minute.
- Depending on the type of surface to be machined, the working area is calculated. The width of the machine’s drums depends on it.
- The size of the machine is an important indicator of where the equipment will be used: in shops or in a small home workshop.
- washing machine motor;
- plywood, chipboard;
- corner. 4 pcs.;
- self-tapping screw;
- sandpaper (circle);
The process of making a homemade, is shown on these
Connected the motor according to the following diagram.
To make the machine easy to carry, a handle was made.
Using a compass, marked the center on the pulley of the motor and drilled three holes in order to install the grinding wheel.
A circle was outlined on a piece of plywood, which was then sawed along the outlined contour with an electric jigsaw.
To fasten the motor to the bed, I used corners.
Connection of motor, capacitor and tumbler switch.
On the obtained points of support the shelf was fixed, which provides a more convenient processing of workpieces.
We made these rubber legs screwed to the base with self-tapping screws.
It is very easy and comfortable to work on this machine. The workpiece is laid on the shelf, unfolded on the desired side, and grinded. And, what’s important. not a penny is spent on this machine, and as a result, it will last a very long time.
As a side note, for those who will make such a little machine, we suggest to make the guides, like sliders or rails. They must be parallel to the grinding wheel. So you can level the workpieces straight, which is very important.
To clean the grinding wheel, it is possible to use a metal brush. As an option, make removable discs on Velcro, so you can make a quick replacement of the used grinding wheel.