Lawn mower starter string. Lawn Mower Pull Cord Won’t Retract

What Size Rope Should My Lawn Mower, Snow Blower or Other Equipment Use?

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When you’re selecting the size of rope for your small engine, chainsaw, trimmer, push mower or riding mower, keep these in mind :

• #3 (3/32 Diameter) and #3-1/2 (7/64 Diameter) rope is used on most trimmers and small 2-cycle engines
• #4 (1/8 Diameter) and #4-1/2 (9/64 Diameter) rope is used on most chain saws and larger 2-cycle engines
• #4-1/2 (9/64 Diameter), #5 (5/32 Diameter) and #5-1/2 (11/64 Diameter) rope is used on most 4-cycle push mower small engines
• #6 (3/16 Diameter) and #7 (7/32 Diameter) rope is used on most larger 4-cycle engines

If you ever have any questions on recoil starter rope, send us an email or give us a call!

When you’re selecting the size of rope for your small engine, chainsaw, trimmer, push mower or riding mower, keep these in mind:

• #3 (3/32 Diameter) and #3-1/2 (7/64 Diameter) rope is used on most trimmers and small 2-cycle engines
• #4 (1/8 Diameter) and #4-1/2 (9/64 Diameter) rope is used on most chain saws and larger 2-cycle engines
• #4-1/2 (9/64 Diameter), #5 (5/32 Diameter) and #5-1/2 (11/64 Diameter) rope is used on most 4-cycle push mower small engines
• #6 (3/16 Diameter) and #7 (7/32 Diameter) rope is used on most larger 4-cycle engines

If you ever have any questions on recoil starter rope, send us an email or give us a call!

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Lawn Mower Pull Cord Won’t Retract

You’ve just finished cutting the grass with your trusty lawnmower when you walk over to start it up again and pull on the starter cord, but nothing happens. What should you do?

When your lawn mower pull cord won’t retract, it may be due to a broken or jammed assembly, rusted ball bearings, and a damaged starter clutch or recoil mechanism. Easy fixes include replacing the broken, rusted, or damaged parts. Also, lubricating the moving parts may help solve these problems.

Read on to learn more about the problems that may cause your lawn mower’s pull cord to not retract, and easy fixes that may help.

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The Pull Cord Assembly Is Broken or Jammed

If the lawnmower pull cord is broken or jammed, it will not retract. In general, the pull cord assembly may do the following:

• Break or get jammed due to a bent or broken pulley.
• Have a bent or broken cord.
• A slipped knot in the cord jams when the end comes through the hole in the housing.
• Rust/corrosion from exposure to weather affecting metal components.

Here are some tell-tale signs of a broken or jammed pull cord assembly:

• The pull cord is broken, or the pull cord is hanging loose but is not attached to any part of the mower.
• The pulley does not rotate when you pull on the starter cord.
• The starter grip rotates with the pulley, but no cord moves through it because there’s an obstruction in the housing, such as something blocking the passage of the cord.
• The engine starts fine but stops running as soon as you release the handle or stop pulling on the cord.

How To Fix

To fix a broken pull cord, replace it with another similar-sized sturdy rope or leather cord. Make sure to knot it securely at both ends. If the pulley is bent or otherwise damaged, replace it. Have a professional repair any stripped teeth on the engine flywheel or replace it if necessary.

You could also disassemble the starter housing as far as needed to access what needs to be repaired or replaced.

As for corroded ball bearings, spray them with lubricating oil (WD-40 works well) and then work the pull cord until they loosen up again; otherwise, replace them entirely.

The Ball Bearings Have Rusted

If the ball bearings have rusted due to exposure to weather affecting metal components, the lawnmower pull cord won’t retract because the ball bearings in the starter clutch are frozen or rusted.

Here are five signs that your lawn mower’s ball bearings are rusted:

• The starter cord doesn’t fully retract when you release it.
• The starter cord pulls out slowly and reluctantly, even when you’re just trying to roll the mower around in place.
• There’s a noticeable clicking or popping sound every time you pull the starter cord and try to start the engine.
• You can hear and feel a gritty rustling noise coming from inside the lawn mower housing when you try to retract the starter cord by hand.
• When you pull up on the starter cord, it barely moves at all. Or if it does move, then it moves only slightly but requires great effort.

How To Fix

For starters, try spraying them with lubricating oil, such as this highly effective, easy-to-apply, and moisture-displacing WD-40 Multi-Use Product with Smart STRAW (link to Amazon), and then working the pull cord until they free up again.

Also, you can try cleaning the rust/corrosion off of the ball bearings with steel wool or sandpaper to give them a fresh start. If these solutions don’t work, replace them entirely. As for the started clutch–check it for damage and replace it as necessary.

Additionally, ensure you always clean your mower to keep it in the best shape. Here’s a video that may help:

Thriving Yard aims to simplify the unnecessarily complex process of growing and maintaining a healthy, thriving lawn and garden. Unlike corporate website companies who write articles from an office overlooking a major city, the authors on this website live in small towns and regularly use many of the tips and recommendations provided in their own garden and lawn care. Read

Lawn Mower Won’t Pull (Causes How to Fix)

A stuck pull cord is a problem we all will face from time to time. You’re all set; the mower’s out of the shed, the tank is full, and the blade is sharp. But you pull the starter cord and nothing. It isn’t that your lawn mower pull cord is hard to pull – it’s totally stuck! Trust me; I’ve been there. So let me share the most common reasons why a pull cord gets stuck and what you can do to get back to cutting within the hour.

Why Won’t My Lawn Mower Cord Pull? (The Short Answer)

There are several causes why your pull cord could be stuck. A jam in the deck area, seizing in the engine, or a problem with the recoil starter.

A Closer Look at Why Your Lawn Mower Won’t Pull

You will notice that these problems are not centered in one area. So knowing where to start is going to save you from wasting time trying to fix something that may not be broken. Let’s look at the problems and how to address them.

Diagnosing a Jam in the Deck

First, you want to check for any obstructions in the lawn mower deck and for anything that could be damaged or misplaced. Start by removing the spark plug from the lawn mower and tuck it out of the way. Even though the mower won’t start, there could still be a charge in the spark plug that could fire up the engine. So, it’s best to be safe. With the plug disconnected, tilt over the lawn mower so you can inspect the deck. Just remember to tilt the lawn mower over the correct way.

Debris in the Lawnmower Deck

It’s as simple as it sounds. Something might be stuck in the deck, meaning the lawn mower blade won’t turn. If your blade is bolted onto the crankshaft and the blade is wedged, then the pull rope will not pull. A stick, rock, or garden hose could be the cause.

The Debris Shield is in the Wrong Place

If you ever pull your lawn mower backward, the debris shield that stops the grass from flying all over may be facing the wrong way. First, check to see if the shield is on the inside and coming into contact with the blade. If it is, the crankshaft will be stuck, as will the pull cord.

A Bent Blade

The blade could be your problem if there are no foreign objects in the deck or a misplaced shield. First, check that the blade is in good condition and not hitting the deck. A bent mower blade that is hitting the deck will need to be replaced to get the starter to work.

A Broken Shroud

Many lawn mowers have a metal shroud in the deck that helps guide the grass to the chute. These are usually made of a very thin metal that can easily damage or rust. Look to see if your shroud is hitting the blade and preventing the blade from spinning. If it is, then you’ll need to reach for your tools.

Diagnosing a Seize in the Engine

An engine can seize in three ways, resulting in your lawn mower pull cord being stuck. The first is lack of oil, the second is oil on top of the piston, and the third is fuel vapors.

So to diagnose a seized lawn mower engine, you need to test it. You have already established that the engine might be seized because the pull cord is jammed, and the top of the crankshaft will not spin. As a result, you’ll want to test the other end of the crankshaft. Start by tilting your lawn mower correctly and prop it up securely. Then, with a pair of gloves, take hold of the blade and try to rotate it by hand. You likely have a seized engine if it’s stuck or extremely difficult to turn.

Checking if the Engine is Seized Due to Lack of Oil

Simply checking the oil level on the dipstick will indicate if your mower has low oil. For example, lawn mowers can sit with low oil and become seized; this isn’t a huge problem. However, if you ran your mower on low oil and it seized in the process, the seizure could have caused extensive damage. So, pull out the dipstick and check your oil level.

How to Check Hydro-Locking

Hydro-locking is where oil has moved from the bottom of the crankcase to the top of the piston. This is usually caused by tipping over the lawn mower incorrectly and accidentally pouring oil into the piston. Additionally, using too much oil will result in the piston forcing oil into the cylinder head. Either way, the engine’s pressure stops the piston from moving and the crankshaft from rotating.

To check for hydro-locking, start by removing the spark plug and tucking it out of the way. Then, check if there’s any lawn mower oil inside the cylinder head where you removed the spark plug. If you find oil, then you probably have a hydro-lock.

How to Tell if You Have a Vapour Lock

Vapor locking occurs when fuel vaporizes. For example, the fuel can vaporize if you’re out in the heat mowing the lawn and you have a hot engine. Also, when you run out of gas and completely drain the fuel tank, the mower can suck in fuel vapors and lock the engine. The best way to check for this is to allow the engine to cool down and check if you have gas in the tank.

Diagnosing the Recoil Starter

If you have checked for obstruction under the deck and can spin the blade by hand, it’s now time to inspect the recoil starter. These mechanical manual starters are constructed of several parts that are not always the strongest and can fail quite easily.

Removing and Diagnosing the Recoil Starter

Start by removing the spark plug from the engine and set it to one side. Then, take a socket wrench or screwdriver, depending on your lawnmower, and remove the fixings that hold the recoil starter in place. This could be either directly on the engine or the cover. Then, remove the starter rope from the lawnmower handle if you find yours is attached. Once this is complete, you should have the starter completely removed from the lawn mower.

With the removed starter, give it a pull and observe the mechanism. You may find that the coil spring is broken or the rope is caught up somehow. I suggest being cautious when testing the starter, as they tend to fly apart and uncoil their spring without warning. On the other hand, if fiddling around with the starter doesn’t help it recoil, it will need fixing or replacing.

How to Fix a Lawn Mower That Won’t Pull

Once you have diagnosed why your lawn mower string won’t pull, the final step is to carry out the repair. I have put together my step-by-step guide that will walk you through the repair and a few tips to prevent issues in the future.

By my calculations, the diagnosis should only take a few minutes to complete, so you still have plenty of time to fix your lawn mower within the hour. So let’s get started. With any repair or inspection that includes the blades, you must always remove the spark plug connection and tuck it out of the way. With this done, you can move on to the fix.

Removing Debris in the Deck

First, tilt your lawn mower over the correct way. Remember, the wrong way causes problems. Depending on what you find under the deck, you should be able to just remove it by wearing a pair of gloves.

You may find that rocking the blade back and forth will help dislodge any intruders. If you happen to have something like a rope wrapped around the blade and spindle, then taking the blade off might be the quickest solution.

Start the blade removal by locking it into position so it can’t move. I like to take a 4×2 timber cutoff and wedge it against the blade. Follow this by taking a socket ratchet and removing the blade’s center bolt. Once this is done, the blade should come away from the lawn mower. As a result, you can clear the obstruction and free the crankshaft.

Turn the lawnmower back upright and give the lawnmower rope a pull. You should find the rope will pull now as you have cleared the problem. Next, tilt the lawn mower back over and reinstall the blade using your blade brace and sockets. Finally, upright the mower and reconnect the spark plug, and you’re good to go.

Tools Required to Clear a Blockage

Repositioning the Debris Shield

For this fix, you’ll need to tilt over the lawnmower to gain access to the bottom of the deck. Grab your gloves and see if you can use some muscle to dislodge the shield.

If it’s truly wedged, then a little more power is needed. I prefer to use a rubber mallet over a metal hammer as a hammer can make a mess of the shield. Start by hitting either end of the shield where it’s jammed rather than the middle. I find if you bash the middle of the shield, it ends up getting bent, which creates more work.

Just repeat going from side to side until it is free. Now when you pull the starting rope, it shouldn’t be locked up.

Tools Required to Reposition the Debris Shield

Replacing a Bent Blade

We have already discussed removing and installing a blade, so the only thing to remember is that you’ll be installing a new one this time. But, before you install the new blade, check for damage.

The bent blade could have caused damage to the lawn mower deck that needs repairing before you install the new blade. Just make sure that any damage to the deck will not cause an obstruction and recreate the problem you have just fixed.

Tools Parts Required to Replace a Blade

Repairing a Broken Shroud

Broken shrouds can be tricky to repair unless you have metal working skills and tools. For example, many lawn mowers have shrouds under the deck that are welded on and can not be replaced. However, if you have a big deck on a tractor or a zero-turn, these may be bolted on and can be replaced. In this instance, we’ll tackle a shroud welded on and jamming up the blade.

Start by tilting over the lawn mower and removing the blade. With access to the broken shroud, you can evaluate what can be done. If it’s intact, you can take a mallet and try to knock it back into place.

If a piece of it is hanging off the deck, you’ll want to cut out the section. I use my hacksaw, metal cutters, and an angle grinder if needed for this job. In the end, you want to ensure that the remainder of the shroud is securely attached and does not obstruct the blade.

With the broken shroud removed and the blade reinstalled, you should have no problem pulling the mower starter.

Tools Required to Remove a Damaged Shroud

Releasing a Hydro-Lock

To release a hydro-lock, start by removing the sparkplug with either a plug wrench or spark plug socket wrench. This will release the pressure in the engine’s cylinder head, and you’ll be able to pull the starter.

Next, you’ll need to remove the oil from the engine’s cylinder head. To do this, you will need to pull the starter repeatedly. This will turn over the engine and force the oil out of the hole where the spark plug goes. Pull the starter rope until nothing is coming out of the hole.

Before pulling the rope, be aware that oil and fuel will shoot out of the hole. This is fine as long as you are in a safe environment. Be careful of where it lands and maybe place something to catch it. I wouldn’t recommend doing this out on the lawn.

Next, take an engine starter spray and spray it directly into the engine via the spark plug hole. This will help get the engine started. Once this is done, you can re-install the spark plug and give the starter a pull. It may take a few pulls as the head will have oil residue inside.

If you have trouble starting the engine, add some more starter spay into it. Once you get the lawn mower started, allow the engine to run for a while to burn off the oil in the cylinder head. Finally, check your oil level and add accordingly.

Tools Required to Release a Hydro-Lock

Freeing a Seized Engine Due to a Lack of Oil

Start by topping up the oil by filling through the oil filler or dipstick. Then with a pair of gloves, rock the blade back and forth. The motion will slowly start to work the oil onto the piston. It will be tight at first, but gradually, it will loosen.

If you are having trouble, you can remove the spark plug and spray a lubricant into the cylinder head. Let this sit for a while, then try rocking the blade again.

Once you get the engine free, you need to spray an engine starter into the cylinder head and install the spark plug. In my experience, a lawnmower that has sat for a while with low oil can be freed up using this method.

If you find that the piston is not loosening despite your best efforts, the piston may be broken due to the lawn mower overheating.

Tools Required to Free a Seized Engine

Releasing a Vapor Lock

You need to let the fuel cool down to release a fuel vapor lock. You may be surprised that fuel can boil in the fuel system and turn to vapor. When there is little to no fuel left in the tank, the small fuel volume can heat up very quickly.

To release the lock, the engine needs to cool down to let the fuel turn back into liquid form. Place the lawn mower in the shade and allow the engine to cool. If you have a leaf blower, you can give the mower a blast to help the process.

Once the mower has cooled down, you can fill the fuel tank and restart the lawn mower. But, depending on your climate, your mower may heat up quickly and vapor lock again.

So what can you do? Well, if you use a fuel stabilizer, you’ll increase the boiling point of the fuel. This means you might get an extra few degrees of tolerance and be able to cut for longer.

Alternatively, try cutting the lawn at a cooler part of the day or splitting your mowing into sections. For example, cut half the lawn and then take an hour’s break. Then, once the lawn mower has cooled down, you can complete the other half of the lawn.

Recommended Approach

• Use a Fuel Stabilizer
• Cut at the Cooler Part of the Day
• Keep a Full Fuel Tank
• Split the Mowing Into Sections

Replacing a Recoil Starter

Depending on how good you are with your hands, you may want to replace the recoil starter.

If you have ever changed a rope in a starter, you’ll appreciate how frustrating it can be, especially if the spring pops out. It wouldn’t be the first time a recoil starter has been thrown at a wall. Now, a broken starter shouldn’t be confused with a snapped rope. A snapped rope isn’t going to stop the starter from turning. There just isn’t a working rope.

So, remove the starter from the lawn mower by directly removing it from the engine or the mower engine housing. Also, remove any attachment to the mower handle if there is one.

If you find a twist or knot in the rope preventing the rope from passing through the eyelet of the starter housing, you have found your issue. By untieing or untwisting the rope, you should be able to have it extending and retracting correctly. Additionally, you could find a rock or some other obstruction in the mechanism that simply needs removing. If this is the case, you can go ahead and reinstall the starter.

Unfortunately, if anything is cracked or snapped, you’ll need to replace the starter with a new unit. Exposure to fuel and oil tend to cause the rope to become brittle over time and break.

Tools Parts to Replace a Recoil Starter

About Tom Greene

I’ve always had a keen interest in lawn care as long as I can remember. Friends used to call me the lawn mower guru (hence the site name), but I’m anything but. I just enjoy cutting my lawn and spending time outdoors. I also love the well-deserved doughnuts and coffee afterward!

Комментарии и мнения владельцев

I inadvertently ran over newspaper that was covered by a bunch of leaves. It appears the lawn mower jammed and shut down immediately. Now the pull starter only moves a few inches. What to do now?

Hi Allen, I would start by removing the spark plug and then tilt over your lawn mower. Then try giving the blade a turn by hand. You might find that you still have paper jamming up the engine, or you have a bent driveshaft. But, usually, what happens when a lawn mower is stopped suddenly under the force of operation is that either the flywheel key breaks or possibly the push rods become damaged. So, when you try to pull the starter cord, the compression in the engine can’t be released. So, you’ll want to check the flywheel key first, then take a look at the push rods and valve setup. I hope this gives you a few ideas. Tom.

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Why is My Lawn Mower Pull Cord Hard to Pull?

Lawn mowers are great when you can roll them onto your lawn, top up the fluids, pull the chord, and get to work. Unfortunately, as your mower gets older, that smooth startup seems to happen less and less. Frayed pull strings, a clogged air filter, faulty valve plugs, or even a dirty spark plug could make your motor putt putt but never start.

If you are experiencing more difficulty pulling your starter rope or if you cannot pull it at all, know that it happens to the best of us. Lawn mowers have a lot of built-in safety functions as well as counterbalances and a recoil mechanism, all of which can act up and make it hard or impossible to pull start your mower.

If you can’t get your engine to fire, read below to find out what to do.

Why is it Hard to Pull Start my Mower?

Before you go tearing open your engine, you may want to look at some possible physical hindrances. Some older lawnmowers need a lot of umph to get going, and it’s possible you aren’t putting your all into it. If the pull cord begins smoothly and then catches, that could be a different issue than if it won’t move at all.

I have even found that the ground I am standing on can affect how easy or difficult it is to pull the starter handle. If I can’t get a good footing, then the starter flywheel won’t turnover, and there will be no ignition in the combustion chamber. The grass under the mower can also present a problem with easy starting.

Whenever I need to start a finicky mower, I put it on a hard flat surface. This allows me to really get a good footing and pull the cord smoothly. With no turf underneath to slow the blades down, eventually, I can get the motor cranking. If my mower starts to get like this, I usually begin replacing parts that are wearing out.

Why Can’t I Pull the Starter Rope?

There are quite a few reasons why new lawn mowers might not pull start right away, and a quick look-over can ensure that everything is assembled correctly. The blade needs to be attached tightly, and the flywheel brake needs to be unlocked. If anything is loose or not attached right, find the special tools that came with your mower, like the flywheel key and the tool to adjust your mower blade.

If everything is unlocked and connected correctly, it may be an issue with the recoil spring, hydro-locking, or a disconnected spark plug. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug removal tool, and then you can check the lawnmower blade for debris or a blade obstruction. The recoil starter can also be examined. If the issue is still not clear, you may need to do more detailed troubleshooting.

Pull Chord Troubleshooting

To really get to the bottom of what is wrong with your lawn mower starter rope, you will need to look at all the components that are responsible for starting the engine. If there are no obvious steps that can fix the problem, you may need to begin taking things apart and looking at individual problem areas. Inspection of a mower should always be done safely.

Unplug and remove the spark plugs and ground the spark plug wire to make sure the mower will not fire suddenly. Check the spark plug hole for signs of oil, and look at the recoil starter. Finally, check the blade for debris jamming before moving on to more detailed looks at the trouble zones.

Factory Safety Lock

Some mowers come with a block or wedge to keep the mower blade stationary in transport. Other brands have a handle that holds down where the blades sit for transport and then needs to be removed before starting. Check to make sure that everything restricting starting has been removed before investigating further.

Flywheel Brake Stuck

This slows the mower down quickly to prevent injury or to help keep lawn cuts clean. The flywheel brake can get sticky with lawn debris and other grime and may stay engaged even when you have released it. With the brake engaged, it will be hard to generate the pulling power needed to start the motor. The recoil spring uses the flywheel to counter the pull and start the blades, so if that can’t occur smoothly, it is unlikely your mower will start.

Debris Jam

While it is usually a good idea to clean your mower between uses, that doesn’t always happen. Sometimes pesky weeds or fibrous material can get tangled around the blade and make it hard to start. There have even been occasions where something like wire or rope has worked its way under and jammed up the blades.

Whatever is causing the obstruction, you will need to remove it. Make sure the mower is safe to work on, and then while wearing gloves, try to remove all of the jammed materials and free the blades.

Hydro-Lock

This is an issue when a mower has been flipped upside down or tilted aggressively. Oil makes its way into areas of the engine it shouldn’t and prevents the mower from starting. To reverse this process, you will need to remove the spark plug and dump any oil out of the hole. Make sure you don’t spill fuel or anything else into the engine while trying to clean it out. Once it is drained, reconnect everything and try to start it again.

Snagged Start Rope

Anywhere between where you hold the starter and where it cranks the engine, there is a chance for the cord to snag. If the rope catches, it may not direct enough energy into the engine to start the mower. Enough snags can fray the wires and lead to snapping. Older mowers may have cords tied back together, and the knots have the potential to catch regularly. Make sure the line from the handle to the engine is clear before yanking on the starter rope.

Loose or Missing Blade

I have forgotten to put the blade back on after sharpening. The counterweight was wrong, and the mower wouldn’t start. Once I replaced the blade, it fired up on the 3rd tug. A loose or wobbly blade can also prevent an engine from starting since the flywheel will recoil in a jerky motion and not give a smooth glide that fires the cylinders. Also, check that the blade is tight before operating your mower.

Damaged Crankshaft or Engine

The crankshaft is what turns over inside the engine and leads the combustion. When you pull and hear what sounds like cables moving and gears churning, that’s the crankshaft. If there is damage or slippage, your engine may not fire. Rocks and other hard pieces flying around can sometimes lead to damage, but often it is improper storage, and lack of maintenance can mess these parts up. Often you will need to get it repaired or replace the entire piece to fix this problem.

Should I Replace My Mower’s Pull Cord?

If, after all the troubleshooting, you are still unable to get the cord to work, you will need to start replacing parts. It makes sense to start with the cord and the rest of the recoil box before moving on to the more expensive mechanical and electrical components. The cords can become old or be subpar material and need to be replaced.

To get a return in combustion, you can replace a mower cord that is too short, damaged, too long, or that has a difficult-to-use handle. By adjusting and customizing your pull cord, you can make it easier for you to start your mower without investing in expensive upgrades or engine components. If you need to work on the recoil housing, it is usually best to replace the whole thing unless you know what you are doing to avoid it whipping out and causing injury.