How to sharpen a Circular Saw With Victorious Tips

How to sharpen a circular saw with victorious soldering. The choice of the machine. How to grind a circular saw with victorious solders with your own hands at home? How to determine sharpening angles?

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How to sharpen a circular saw with victorious soldering. The choice of the machine. How to grind a circular saw with victorious solders with your own hands at home? How to determine sharpening angles?

How to sharpen a saw blade with victorious soldering AURAMM.Ru

At one time, long-term operation of carbide tipped saw blades would lose their initial properties. However, this does not mean that a new cutting tool should be obtained. In the bulk, grinding is performed at home, using at least some suitable machine.

First of all, it should be determined whether it is necessary to sharpen it differently. There are several obvious signs that indicate the relevance of this procedure. If you ignore them, then the disk may not be repairable and will serve as a prerequisite for the failure of an expensive machine.

Which have gaming slots using a saw blade with soldering is to increase the life of the device. It is also designed to handle hard wood. Surfacing is made of steel 9HF, 50 HVA, 65G and similar compounds. They are characterized by the highest hardness, with all this, with significant operation, the possibility of their breakdown will increase.

Timely sharpening of circular saws with a machine at home is carried out with the following obvious signs:

  • Increased load on the engine. A prerequisite for this is the deterioration of sharpening and, as a natural result, the aggregate needs more than just the power to cut wood. If protective relays are not provided in the motor design, it is likely to fail;
  • Deterioration of cut properties. The first sign is an increase in the width of the cut, in addition, the formation of chips and bumps along its edges;
  • Increase the processing time of the workpiece. For the formation of the cut it takes more than just time than usual.

Sharpening saw blades yourself

The best method is to repeatedly check the status of the soldered wood drive. For this purpose, it will be necessary to temporarily drop the machine and dismantle the cutting tool. If its geometric characteristics do not coincide with the original ones, sharpening is needed.

A good option would be to have an initial template, according to which there is an option to correct the geometry of the cutting edge. Often it is made of thin-walled stainless metal, less often. Of thick cardboard.

Carbide teeth are made according to GOST 9769-79. But their geometry and geometric dimensions are determined by the manufacturer from the parameters of the destination of the saw. If the template is missing, you need to find the required sharpening angles without the help of others. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a pendulum goniometer.

Development of a production template yourself.

  1. Take a new soldered disk, which is completely similar to a dull one.
  2. On a hard sheet of cardboard draw clear contours.
  3. Using a pendulum protractor, find the initial geometry of carbide solders.
  4. Enter data on the template.

If necessary, it is used for self-sharpening on the machine or provide as a standard for companies providing similar services.

In addition, it is recommended to compare the acquired data with the reference. In saws for longitudinal shear formation, the frontal angle is usually 15 °.25 °. For transverse models, this common rumor indicator ranges from 5 ° to 10 °. In universal models, the front angle is 15 °.

It’s important to keep in mind that the front angle you like more negative. Similar models are used for cutting plastic sheets and non-ferrous metals.

At least some grinding machine is used to form the latest cutting edge. Fundamentally, at the beginning it is correct to choose an emery wheel and, when using it, to sharpen the edge. For this purpose you need to use corundum or diamond models.

Sharpening the saw blade

A good option is to use special equipment designed to do the job. Alas, because of its highest price, its acquisition is often impractical. Another method is the introduction of a grinding machine with the ability to configure the angle of the corundum disk.

Under no circumstances should you manually sharpen yourself. That’s all. It will take a lot of time. When. The acquired result will not correspond to the standards. If the passage of the lack of ability to grind a saw blade on a tree without the help of others is recommended using the services of specialized companies.

Prof. Sharpening circular saws at home is carried out according to the following rules:

  • The main deformation occurs on the upper edge of the tooth. Rounding of the faces from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. From this point you need to start processing;
  • Sharpening is performed on the front and rear edges. This will provide the opportunity to repeat the procedure up to 25 times;
  • The amount of removal should not exceed the value of 0.05-0.15 mm;
  • The level of processing of the front and rear faces is similar.

When the sharpening of the discs on the tree is over. It is recommended to bring it with fine sandpaper. This is done manually or through a special machine.

Specialists recommend the use of special corundum disks, the end surface of which has a groove of a special shape. It will facilitate the implementation of the procedure.

The process of forming the latest cutting edge is time consuming and time consuming. Therefore, it is recommended to make a number of criteria in order to increase the service life of the disk.

First of all, you should find out all about the manufacturer’s tips. It indicates the number of revolutions (largest and smallest) for different types of processed materials. For metal, this parameter is less than for wood.

Saw blade sharpening

Hard solders have a long service life. But they often chip and break off. Another soft one is actually not subject to such shortcomings. However, its service time is shorter than that of a tough one.

Roughness on the cutting surface is not allowed. In the near future, they lead to the formation of chips and cracks.

The shows an example of a self-sharpening disc machine:

Sharpening of circular saws should be carried out clearly in compliance with the norms and requirements for the geometry of the teeth of each individual disk. To correctly sharpen a circular saw in artisanal conditions, you should know the shape of the tooth and its geometry.

How to Sharpen a Win Circular Saw

How to sharpen circular saws do it yourself?

  • Tools for sharpening disk drank
  • What signs suggest that you need to sharpen the saw?
  • Types of cutting teeth
  • Principles and Angles sharpening disk drank
  • Sharpening saws do it yourself at home

The construction of a private house will be difficult and lengthy without the use of modern tools. Circular won great popularity among builders saw, superior to other types of saws on wood with its accuracy and clean cut.

Machine diagram for sharpening disk drank and knives.

Since this power tool is an actively operated and therefore rather quickly wearing out tool, sharpening circular saws with your own hands becomes very important.

Tools for sharpening disk drank

To correctly sharpen a circular saw, We need tools such as:

  • File;
  • Mounting vice;
  • Bar made of wood;
  • Color marker.

What signs suggest that you need to sharpen the saw?

Figure 1. Schematic of the saw tooth. Planes: a. Front, b. Back, c. Two side. Edges for metal cutting: 1. Main, 2, 3. Additional.

To sharpen circular saw necessary only when the need arises. And that such a moment has come, 2 clear signs will signal. In particular, urgent sharpening of wood saws is required if:

  1. On the safety guards of the saws in the area of ​​the electric motor, strong heating is felt. Sometimes such an increase in temperature is accompanied by the appearance of smoke from under the casing.
  2. To get good results on circular saw have to push harder than before.
  3. As a result of the operation of blunt teeth saws on wood on cuts in the wood, the appearance of dark marks, traces of soot is recorded. Perhaps the characteristic smell of burnt wood.

Types of cutting teeth

To better understand how the correct sharpening of circular saws is made, you should understand the features and structure of the part of the disk that produces the sawing of wood. This main part is the cutting teeth.

All teeth are made from carbide metals. Each of them (Fig. 1) has 4 working flat surfaces: front (a), rear (b), and also two side planes (c). They play a supporting role. One main (1) and two additional (2 and 3) edges for cutting the material are formed on the lines of intersection of the indicated work planes.

In accordance with the configuration, all cutting teeth of circular saws are divided into the following varieties:

How to sharpen a Circular Saw With Victorious Tips

Figure 2. Diagram of the angle of sharpening.

  1. Straight teeth Most often used for accelerated longitudinal sawing. Not designed for perfect cut quality.
  2. Beveled (oblique) teeth. They are characterized by the presence on the posterior flat surface of the tooth of an angular edge on the left or right side. Sometimes on the disk, the teeth with different sides of the bevel alternate and then they are called alternately sheared. Such elements are used for cutting not only wood, but also chipboard, various plastics. With a large bevel angle, high-quality sawing without chips on the edges of the cut is ensured.
  3. Trapezoidal teeth. In the section of the cutting surface are trapezoidal. Thanks to this configuration, they do not stupid for a long time. Often the disc alternates with straight teeth. In this case, the trapezoidal elements carry out rough sawing, while the straight lines finish.
  4. Conical teeth. They have a conical shape. Usually perform auxiliary functions of preliminary cutting of the laminate. The specified floor covering is treated with such teeth to prevent chips when cutting laminate panels with a main saw.

Sharpen the Bead Surfacing Circular Saw Part 1

How do i sharpen Winning Saw surfacing I would really like for people who put dislike arguments.

How sharpen carbide disc angle grinder

How do i sharpen Winning Saw surfacing. I would really like for people who put dislike arguments.

Principles and Angles sharpening disk drank

Figure 3. Scheme of grinding metal on the teeth of the saw.

The working parts of circular saws are sharpened at 4 main sharpening angles. These angles (Fig. 2), as well as the shape of the cutting tooth, are the main technical parameters of the disc.

So, each circular tooth is characterized by front (γ), rear (α) angles, as well as cutting angles of the front and rear surfaces (ε1 and ε2). The magnitude of these angles depends on the purpose of the sawing device, the material being cut and the direction of sawing.

In particular, a saw for longitudinal cutting is sharpened at a relatively large rake angle (from 15 ° to 25 °). The index of sharpening the front angle for transverse sawing is in the range from 5 ° to 10 °. But the universal option, performing material processing in all directions, is traditionally sharpened at an angle of 15 °.

In addition, the degree of hardness of the cut objects affects the indicated angles. Their values ​​are in strict dependence: the harder the material of which this or that workpiece for sawing is composed, the less pointed the cutting teeth should be.

The main principle for sharpening the teeth of carbide saws is based on the fact that during prolonged use, the most significant wear occurs on the upper cutting edge. As a result of heavy use, its fishing line can round up to 0.3 mm or more. As for the tooth planes, most of all wear is fixed on the front surface.

Proper sharpening of the cutting elements should provide such a kind of edges at which the radius of their rounding does not exceed a value of 0.2 mm. To do this, it is recommended to grind metal in parallel on the front and rear planes of the tooth (Fig. 3). This method can be considered optimal. You can sharpen only the front plane, but in this case, such an operation will take more time, moreover, the tooth itself is sharpened faster due to the need to remove more metal from the front surface.

A standard layer of metal to be ground is considered 0.05-0.15 mm.

Sharpening saws do it yourself at home

Figure 4. In order for the sharpening to be correct and the disk should be fastened well.

You can also grind the saw at home. For this, it is not necessary to have a specialized grinding machine in your own workshop, which costs a lot of money and is rarely used for its intended purpose.

But just to hold a disk in your hands and grind the teeth on the grinding wheel in weight is irrational. No hardness of the hand and excellent eye coverage is enough to make the cutting element perfectly sharp and suitable for effective work. To this end, care should be taken to manufacture the simplest locking device (Fig. 4).

To keep the circular gear circle in a strictly predetermined position relative to the grinding disc will help, for example, the most ordinary flat stand.

Its surface should coincide with the level of the axis of the grinding wheel. The gear wheel itself is placed on the stand so that the sharpened tooth planes are perpendicular to the saw blade. To grind the beveled teeth on the front and rear surfaces, this device is made with a movable hinge.

However, in this case, it is difficult to maintain the same value of the front and rear sharpening angles. To eliminate this problem, the center of the saw wheel is rigidly fixed in position with respect to the abrasive disk. This is done either using the groove for the mandrel, which is mounted on the stand to place the sharpened saw on it, or by installing special stops on the stand that fix the saw blade at the required angle to the grinding wheel.

If all the requirements for the technology of sharpening carbide circular saws are met, then they will serve the person for a long time and effectively.

Sharpening a Circular Saw With Victorious Tips

How is done sharpening circular saws do it yourself?

  • Tools for sharpening disk drank
  • What signs suggest that you need to sharpen the saw?
  • Types of cutting teeth
  • Principles and Angles sharpening disk drank
  • Sharpening drank do it yourself at home

The construction of a private house will be difficult and lengthy without the use of modern tools. Circular won great popularity among builders saw, superior to other types of saws on wood with its accuracy and clean cut.

Machine diagram for sharpening disk drank and knives.

Since this power tool is an actively operated and therefore rather quickly wearing out tool, sharpening circular saws with your own hands becomes very important.

Tools for sharpening disk drank

To sharpen correctly circular saw, We need tools such as:

  • File;
  • Mounting vice;
  • Bar made of wood;
  • Color marker.

What signs suggest that you need to sharpen the saw?

Figure 1. Schematic of the saw tooth. Planes: a. Front, b. Back, c. Two side. Edges for metal cutting: 1. Main, 2, 3. Additional.

To sharpen circular saw necessary only when the need arises. And that such a moment has come, 2 clear signs will signal. In particular, urgent sharpening of wood saws is required if:

  1. On the safety guards of the saws in the area of ​​the electric motor, strong heating is felt. Sometimes such an increase in temperature is accompanied by the appearance of smoke from under the casing.
  2. To get good results on circular saw have to push harder than before.
  3. As a result of the operation of blunt teeth saws on wood on cuts in the wood, the appearance of dark marks, traces of soot is recorded. Perhaps the characteristic smell of burnt wood.

Types of cutting teeth

To better understand how the correct sharpening circular saws, you should understand the features and structure of the part of the disk that produces the sawing of wood. This main part is the cutting teeth.

All teeth are made from carbide metals. Each of them (Fig. 1) has 4 working flat surfaces: front (a), rear (b), and also two side planes (c). They play a supporting role. One main (1) and two additional (2 and 3) edges for cutting the material are formed on the lines of intersection of the indicated work planes.

In accordance with the configuration, all cutting teeth of circular saws are divided into the following varieties:

Figure 2. Diagram of the angle of sharpening.

  1. Straight teeth Most often used for accelerated longitudinal sawing. Not designed for perfect cut quality.
  2. Beveled (oblique) teeth. They are characterized by the presence on the posterior flat surface of the tooth of an angular edge on the left or right side. Sometimes on the disk, the teeth with different sides of the bevel alternate and then they are called alternately sheared. Such elements are used for cutting not only wood, but also chipboard, various plastics. With a large bevel angle, high-quality sawing without chips on the edges of the cut is ensured.
  3. Trapezoidal teeth. In the section of the cutting surface are trapezoidal. Thanks to this configuration, they do not stupid for a long time. Often the disc alternates with straight teeth. In this case, the trapezoidal elements carry out rough sawing, while the straight lines finish.
  4. Conical teeth. They have a conical shape. Usually perform auxiliary functions of preliminary cutting of the laminate. The specified floor covering is treated with such teeth to prevent chips when cutting laminate panels with a main saw.

How to sharpen your saw blades yourself with a simple tool

Sharpening carbide discs is very easy with the simplest tool, and such discs serve once.

Sharpening a circular saw on an electric grinder on a homemade device (part 1)

Adaptation at work: How sharpen a circular saw from.

Principles and Angles sharpening disk drank

Figure 3. Scheme of grinding metal on the teeth of the saw.

The working parts of circular saws are sharpened at 4 main sharpening angles. These angles (Fig. 2), as well as the shape of the cutting tooth, are the main technical parameters of the disc.

So, each circular tooth is characterized by front (γ), rear (α) angles, as well as cutting angles of the front and rear surfaces (ε1 and ε2). The magnitude of these angles depends on the purpose of the sawing device, the material being cut and the direction of sawing.

In particular, a saw for longitudinal cutting is sharpened at a relatively large rake angle (from 15 ° to 25 °). The index of sharpening the front angle for transverse sawing is in the range from 5 ° to 10 °. But the universal option, performing material processing in all directions, is traditionally sharpened at an angle of 15 °.

In addition, the degree of hardness of the cut objects affects the indicated angles. Their values ​​are in strict dependence: the harder the material of which this or that workpiece for sawing is composed, the less pointed the cutting teeth should be.

The main principle for sharpening the teeth of carbide saws is based on the fact that during prolonged use, the most significant wear occurs on the upper cutting edge. As a result of heavy use, its fishing line can round up to 0.3 mm or more. As for the tooth planes, most of all wear is fixed on the front surface.

Proper sharpening of the cutting elements should provide such a kind of edges at which the radius of their rounding does not exceed a value of 0.2 mm. To do this, it is recommended to grind metal in parallel on the front and rear planes of the tooth (Fig. 3). This method can be considered optimal. You can sharpen only the front plane, but in this case, such an operation will take more time, moreover, the tooth itself is sharpened faster due to the need to remove more metal from the front surface.

A standard layer of metal to be ground is considered 0.05-0.15 mm.

Sharpening drank do it yourself at home

Figure 4. In order to sharpening was correct and fast drive should be well secured.

You can also grind the saw at home. For this, it is not necessary to have a specialized grinding machine in your own workshop, which costs a lot of money and is rarely used for its intended purpose.

But just to hold a disk in your hands and grind the teeth on the grinding wheel in weight is irrational. No hardness of the hand and excellent eye coverage is enough to make the cutting element perfectly sharp and suitable for effective work. To this end, care should be taken to manufacture the simplest locking device (Fig. 4).

To keep the circular gear circle in a strictly predetermined position relative to the grinding disc will help, for example, the most ordinary flat stand.

Its surface should coincide with the level of the axis of the grinding wheel. The gear wheel itself is placed on the stand so that the sharpened tooth planes are perpendicular to the saw blade. To grind the beveled teeth on the front and rear surfaces, this device is made with a movable hinge.

However, in this case, it is difficult to maintain the same value of the front and rear sharpening angles. To eliminate this problem, the center of the saw wheel is rigidly fixed in position with respect to the abrasive disk. This is done either using the groove for the mandrel, which is mounted on the stand to place the sharpened saw on it, or by installing special stops on the stand that fix the saw blade at the required angle to the grinding wheel.

If all the requirements for the technology of sharpening carbide circular saws are met, then they will serve the person for a long time and effectively.

Sharpening Circular Saws With Pobeditovye Tips AURAMM.Ru

Sharpening wood saws do it yourself: geometry of corners, machines

During prolonged use, carbide tipped saw blades can lose their original qualities. Sharpening circular saws with victorious soldering. But this does not mean that a new cutting tool should be purchased. In most cases, grinding can be done at home using any suitable machine.

Need for sharpening a saw

First you need to decide whether to sharpen or not. Sharpening of carbide-tipped saw blades is performed with obvious signs: increased engine load, reduced sawing, increased processing time. There are several obvious signs that indicate the relevance of this procedure. If you ignore them, then in the future the disk may become unrepairable and will cause the failure of an expensive machine.

The advantage of using a soldered saw blade is its extended life. It is also intended for the processing of hard wood. Surfacing is made of steel 9HF, 50 HVA, 65G and similar compositions. They are characterized by high hardness, but at the same time, with significant operation, the probability of their breakdown will increase.

Timely sharpening of circular saws with a machine do it yourself performed with the following obvious signs:

  • Increased engine load. The reason for this is the deterioration of sharpening and, as a result, the power unit needs more power for cutting wood. If protective relays are not provided in the engine design, its failure is possible;
  • Deterioration in cut quality. The first sign is an increase in the width of the cut, as well as the formation of chips and bumps along its edges;
  • Increase the processing time of the workpiece. For the formation of the cut takes more time than usual.

The best way is to periodically check the status of the soldered disk on the tree. Do-it-yourself sharpening of carbide tipped saw blades. To do this, temporarily leave the machine and dismantle the cutting tool. If its geometric parameters do not coincide with the original ones, it is necessary sharpening.

How to determine the angle of sharpening a circular saw

The best option would be to have the original template, according to which you can fix the geometry cutting edge. Often it is made of thin-walled stainless metal, less often. Of thick cardboard.

Carbide teeth are made according to GOST 9769-79. Sharpening a circular saw with victorious soldering. But their geometry and geometric dimensions are determined by the manufacturer based on the purpose of the saw. If the template is missing, you must independently determine the required sharpening angles. To do this, it is recommended to use a pendulum goniometer.

DIY manufacturing template technology.

  1. Take a new soldered disk, which is completely identical to the dull one.
  2. Draw the exact contours on a solid sheet of cardboard.
  3. Using the pendulum protractor, determine the initial geometry of the carbide taps.
  4. Enter data on the template.

Sharpening a circular saw on an electric sharpener on a homemade device (part 1)

Adaptation at work: How sharpen disk saw from

How to sharpen a saw blade with your own hands

The saw blade on my Makita 2704 became dull. In the process of work, I gathered several blunt circular saws with victorious soldering, they seem to look like. There is currently no finance for the purchase of a disk from Makita or SMT

In the future, it can be used for self-sharpening on the machine or provided as a model for companies providing similar services.

In addition, it is recommended to compare the obtained data with the reference. In saws for longitudinal shearing, the rake angle is usually 15 °.25 °. Where is the best place to sharpen a circular saw blade? We inform you that professional sharpening of circular saws with carbide taps (disks with winning taps) in St. Petersburg at lower prices. For transverse models, this indicator ranges from 5 ° to 10 °. In universal models rake angle is 15 °.

It is important to remember that rake angle may be negative. Similar models are used for cutting plastic sheets and non-ferrous metals.

Methods for sharpening circular saws

To form a new cutting edge any grinding machine can be used. It is important to initially choose the right emery wheel and use it to sharpen the edge. For this it is necessary to use corundum or diamond models.

The best option is to use special equipment designed to perform this work. But due to its high cost, in many cases its acquisition is impractical. Homemade sharpening saws will be sharpening saws. An alternative way is to use a grinding machine with the ability to change the angle of the corundum disk.

In no case can you sharpen manually yourself. Firstly, it will take a very long time. Secondly, the result will not meet the standards. Self-sharpening circular saws with soldered saw blades with victorious. If it is not possible to sharpen the saw blade on a tree, it is recommended that you use the services of specialized companies.

Do-it-yourself professional sharpening of circular saws is performed according to the following rules:

  • The main deformation occurs on the upper edge of the tooth. Rounding of the faces from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. It is from this place that it is necessary to begin processing;
  • Sharpening is performed on the front and rear edges. This will provide the opportunity to repeat the procedure up to 25 times;
  • The amount of removal should not exceed the value of 0.05-0.15 mm;
  • The level of processing of the front and rear faces should be the same.

After the sharpening of the discs on the tree is completed. It is recommended to bring it with fine-grained emery paper. This can be done manually or using a special machine.

Specialists advise using special corundum disks, the end surface of which has a groove of a special shape. It will facilitate the implementation of the procedure.

Ways to increase saw blade life

The process of forming a new cutting edge is laborious and time consuming. The machine for sharpening circular circular saws with carbide taps on the front and rear faces. Sharpening circular saws material and properties of carbide teeth carbide circular saws consist of a blade (blade) made of steel 9hf, 65g, 50hfa, etc. Therefore, it is recommended to fulfill a number of conditions to increase the life of the blade.

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the manufacturer’s recommendations. They indicate the number of revolutions (maximum and minimum) for various types of processed materials. For metal, this parameter should be less than for wood.

Hard solders have a long service life. However, they often chip and break off. Sharpening of circular saws with victorious soldering of circular saws. Sharpening of carbide saw blades in Nizhny Novgorod. Find out where to sharpen a disk on a tree at a low price and how to sharpen a saw with solders or teeth. Alternative soft is practically not affected by such defects. But her service time is shorter than that of a solid one.

Roughness on the cutting surface is not allowed. In the future, they can lead to the appearance of chips and cracks.

The shows an example of a do-it-yourself machine for sharpening disks:

Drawings and tooth geometry

Sharpening of circular saws should be carried out clearly in compliance with the norms and requirements for the geometry of the teeth of each individual disk. To properly sharpen a circular saw with your own hands, you need to know the shape of the tooth and its geometry.

Sharpening Saws With Victorious Tips

Sharpening circular saws

Material and properties of carbide teeth

In Russian saws, sintered tungsten-cobalt alloys of grades are used as material for cutting inserts (6, fifteen not the other figure means the percentage of cobalt). At 6, the hardness is 88.5 HRA, at 15. Eighty 6 HRA. Foreign Russian manufacturers use their alloys. Hard alloys mainly consist of cobalt cemented tungsten carbide. The properties of the alloy depend not only on its chemical composition, but also immediately on the additional grain size of the carbide phase. The smaller the grain, the higher the hardness and strength of the alloy.

Tungsten carbide plates are fastened to the disk by high-temperature soldering. The soldering material is probably silver solders (PSr-40, PSr-45), in the worst case. Copper-zinc solders (L-63, MNMTS-68-4-2).

Carbide tooth geometry

The following types of teeth are distinguished in shape.

Straight tooth. It is usually used in saws for longitudinal fast sawing, in which quality is not of particular importance.

Oblique (beveled) tooth with left and right angle of inclination of the rear plane. Teeth with different angles of rotation alternate with each other, which is why they are called alternately chamfered. This is the most common tooth shape. Depending on the size of the sharpening angles, saws with an alternating cut tooth are used for sawing a wide variety of materials (wood, chipboard, plastics). Both in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Saws with a large angle of inclination of the rear plane are used as cutting saws when cutting boards with double-sided lamination. Their use avoids chipping of the coating at the edges of the cut. Increasing the bevel angle reduces the cutting force and reduces the risk of chipping, but at the same time reduces the resistance and strength of the tooth.

The teeth may tilt not only the back, but also the front plane.

Trapezoidal tooth. Sharpening a circular saw with victorious soldering. A feature of these teeth is the relatively slow blunting speed of the cutting edges in comparison with the alternately chamfered teeth. They are usually used in combination with a straight tooth.

Alternating with the latter and slightly rising above it, the trapezoidal tooth performs rough sawing, and the straight line follows it. Fine. Saws with alternating straight and trapezoidal teeth are used for cutting plates with double-sided lamination (chipboard, MDF, etc.), as well as for sawing plastics.

Conical tooth. Saws with a conical tooth are auxiliary and are used to cut the bottom layer of the laminate, protecting it from chips during the passage of the main saw.

In the vast majority of cases, the front edge of the teeth is flat, but there are also saws with a concave front edge. They are used for fine cross cutting.

Sharpening Angles

Sharpening angles are determined by the purpose of the saw. Those. What cutting material and in which direction it is intended. Saws for longitudinal sawing have a relatively large rake angle (15 °.25 °). For saws transverse sawing angle γ usually ranges from 5-10 °. Universal saws designed for transverse and longitudinal sawing have an average value of the rake angle. Usually 15 °.

The sharpening angles are determined not only by the direction of cut, but also by the hardness of the material being cut. The higher the hardness, the smaller the front and rear angles should be (less tooth sharpening).

The rake angle can be not only positive, but also negative. Saws with this angle are used for cutting non-ferrous metals and plastics.

The basic principles of sharpening

When sawing massive workpieces, lateral faces also undergo rapid wear.

Excessive blunting of the saw should not be allowed. The radius of rounding of the cutting edge must not exceed 0.1-0.2 mm. In addition to sharply reduced productivity when working with a very blunt saw, sharpening it takes several times longer than sharpening a saw with normal bluntness. The degree of bluntness can be determined both by the teeth themselves, and by the type of cut that they leave.

The correct sharpening of circular saws is to simultaneously ensure the proper sharpness of the cutting edge, to ensure the maximum number of sharpenings, which in the best case can reach 25-30 times. For this purpose, a carbide tooth is recommended to be sharpened on the front and rear planes. In fact, the teeth can also be sharpened in one frontal plane, but the number of possible sharpenings is almost two times less than when sharpening in two planes. The figure below illustrates why this is happening.

The last pass when sharpening the saw blades is recommended to be done along the back plane of the tooth. The standard amount of metal removal. 0.05-0.15 mm.

Before sharpening, clean the saw from contaminants, such as tar, and check the values ​​of the sharpening angles. On some saws they are written on the disc.

Equipment and materials for sharpening saw blades

When using abrasive wheels (especially diamond), it is desirable to cool them with coolant.

With increasing temperature, the microhardness of abrasive materials decreases. Raising the temperature to 1000 ° C reduces the microhardness by almost 2-2.5 times compared with microhardness at room temperature. An increase in temperature to 1300 ° C causes a decrease in hardness of abrasive materials by almost 4-6 times.

How to sharpen your saw blades yourself with a simple tool

Sharpening carbide discs is very easy with the simplest tool, and such discs serve once.

The use of cooling water can lead to rust on parts and components of the machine. To eliminate corrosion, soap and certain electrolytes are added to the water (sodium carbonate, soda ash, trisodium phosphate, sodium nitrite, sodium silicate, etc.), which form protective films. In conventional grinding, soap and soda solutions are most often used, and in fine grinding. Low concentrated emulsions.

However, when sharpening saw blades at home with a low intensity of grinding operations, cooling of the wheel is not resorted to so often. Not wanting to waste time on it.

To increase sharpening productivity with abrasive wheels and reduce specific wear, it is necessary to choose the highest grit, which ensures the required cleanliness of the surface of the sharpened tooth.

To select the grain size of the abrasive, in accordance with the stage of sharpening, you can use the table in the article about bars for sharpening. For example, in the case of using diamond wheels, circles with a grain size of 160/125 or 125/100 can be used for rough grinding, for finishing. 63/50 or 50/40. Wheels with grain sizes from 40/28 to 14/10 are used to remove nicks.

The peripheral speed of the circle when grinding carbide teeth should be about 10-18 m / s. This means that when using a circle with a diameter of one hundred twenty-five mm, the engine speed should be about 1500-2700 rpm. Sharpening of more brittle alloys is performed at a lower speed from this range. Sharpening of circular saws with victorious soldering sharpening starts from the back. When sharpening carbide tools, the use of hard conditions leads to the formation of increased stresses and cracks, and sometimes to chipping of the cutting edges, while the wear of the wheel increases.

When using machines for sharpening circular saws, changing the relative position of the saw and the grinding wheel can be implemented in different ways. Moving one saw (the engine with the circle is stationary), simultaneously moving the saw and the engine, moving only the engine with the circle (saw blade is stationary).

A large number of grinding machines of various functionality are produced. The most complex and expensive programmable systems are able to provide a fully automatic sharpening mode, in which all operations are performed without the participation of a worker.

In the simplest and cheapest models, after installing and securing the saw in a position that provides the necessary sharpening angle, all further operations. Turning the saw around its axis (turning on the tooth), feeding it to grinding (bringing it into contact with the wheel) and controlling the thickness of the metal removed from the tooth. Are made by manual workers. Such simple models are advisable to use at home, when the sharpening of circular saws is episodic in nature.

An example of the simplest machine for sharpening circular saws is the system, a photograph of which is presented in the photo below. It consists of two main nodes. Engine with a circle (1) and a support (2) on which the sharpened saw is installed. The rotation mechanism (3) serves to change the angle of inclination of the blade (when sharpening teeth with a beveled front plane). Using the screw (4), the saw is shifted along the axis of the abrasive wheel. This ensures that the required value of the rake angle is set. The screw (5) is used to set the stopper in the desired position, preventing the circle from entering the interdental cavity excessively.

The process of sharpening saw blades

The saw is mounted on a mandrel, clamped with a cone (centering) sleeve and nut, then set in a strictly horizontal position by means of a mechanism (3). This ensures a bevel angle of the front plane (ε1) equal to 0 °. Do-it-yourself sharpening of circular saws on wood: geometry of angles, machines during long-term operation carbide-tipped circular saws can lose their original. For disc sharpening machines that do not have a built-in angle scale in the tilt mechanism, this is done using a conventional pendulum protractor. In this case, check the horizontal position of the machine.

By rotating the screw (4) of the mechanism that provides horizontal movement of the mandrel with a circle, the necessary rake angle is set. In other words, the saw moves to a position in which the front plane of the tooth fits snugly against the working surface of the circle.

A marker is used to mark the tooth from which sharpening begins.

The engine is turned on and produced sharpening front plane. Putting the tooth in contact with the circle and several movements of the saw back and forth while pressing the tooth against the circle. The thickness of the removed metal is controlled by the number of grinding movements and the force of pressing the tooth against the abrasive wheel. After sharpening one tooth saw it is removed from contact with the circle, rotated by one tooth and the sharpening operation is repeated. And so on until the marker mark makes a full circle, indicating that all the teeth are sharpened.

Sharpening the tooth, beveled on the front plane. The difference between sharpening a chamfered tooth and sharpening a straight line is that the saw must be installed not horizontally, but with a slope. With an angle corresponding to the angle of the bevel front plane.

The angle of inclination of the saw is set using the same pendulum protractor. First, a positive angle is set (in this case, 8 °).

After that, sharpening every second tooth.

After sharpening half the teeth, the angle of the saw blade changes from 8 ° to 8 °.

And every second tooth is sharpened again.

Rear Sharpening. To sharpen the tooth in the back plane, it is necessary that the sharpening machine saw blades allowed you to set the saw in such a way that the back plane of the tooth will be in the same plane with the working surface of the abrasive wheel.

If there is no machine for sharpening saw blades

Accurately maintain the necessary sharpening angles while holding the saw in your hands while weighing. The task is impossible even for a person with a unique eye and enviable hardness of hands. The most reasonable in this case. To make the simplest sharpening device, which makes it possible to fix the saw in a certain position in relation to the circle.

The simplest of such devices for sharpening circular saws is a stand, the surface of which is flush with the axis of the grinding wheel. Putting a saw blade on it, you can ensure the perpendicularity of the front and rear planes of the tooth with respect to the saw blade. And if the upper surface of the stand is movable. Securing one side pivotally and the other. Resting on a pair of bolts that can be screwed in and out. Then it can be installed at any angle, getting the opportunity to sharpen an oblique tooth along the front and rear planes.

True, in this case one of the main problems remains unresolved. Exposure of the same front and rear sharpening angles. This problem can be solved by fixing the center of the saw relative to the abrasive wheel in the desired position. One way to implement this. Make a groove for the mandrel on which the saw is mounted on the surface of the stand. Moving the mandrel with a circle in the groove, it will be possible to withstand the necessary front angle of sharpening the tooth. But for sharpening circular saws with different diameters or sharpening angles, it should be possible to either move the engine or the stand and the groove with it. Another way to provide the required sharpening angle is simpler, and is to install on the table the stops fixing the disk in the desired position. At the end of the article there is a demonstrating such a device.

Sharpening quality control

Gost 9769-79 sets certain tolerance values ​​for sharpening parameters. The end runout of the tooth tips should not exceed 0.2 mm (for saws with a diameter of up to four hundred mm), radial. 0.15 mm. The runout is checked using a conventional dial gauge.

Deviations of sharpening angles should not exceed:

  • For the front corner. ± 1 ° 30 ′;
  • For a back corner and bevel angles of a front and back planes. ± 2 °;