What tool is necessary for installation of air conditioner

Tools for installation of air conditioners

Managers of the company will answer all your questions, choose necessary equipment and make commercial offer.

In this article we consider necessary tool kit, which will be needed for independent installation of split-system. Also shown is the purpose of each tool.

Some of these you may already have, and some you will prefer not to use, replacing them with others.

Many tools are sold in one set. Screwdrivers, wrenches, cutters, pliers or rolling pliers, pipe benders, rimmers, manometers. They can be combined in one set, and it is up to you to decide whether to buy them separately or together.

Drilling tool for the wall

Power enough to drill the wall

Drill bit for peorator

Diameter no less than 40 mm, so that two freon pipes, five-core cable and a corrugated tube for drainage of a condensate (if condensate will flow out on the street) could be put in a hole drilled by this auger.

Length must match the width of the wall.

Drill for drilling air conditioner mounting holes

These holes are required to secure the brackets of the outdoor unit and the panel holding the indoor unit.

Drill bits for drilling holes to mount the air conditioner

Usually it is 10 mm for brackets of the outdoor unit and 6 mm for dowels for the indoor unit.

Vacuum pump

Required to remove moisture and air from the freon circuit. Many installers do not use it, squeezing air from the system with freon from the air conditioner, but professionals that work with serious equipment always use it.

Manometric Manifold

Needed to connect the air conditioner with a vacuum pump when using it. Also for connection with freon cylinder at charging, this procedure will be needed in case of long route from indoor to outdoor unit.

A set of rolling wrenches

This set is necessary for rolling (flanging) copper tubes to connect them to the valves of the air conditioner.

Tube cutter

Special pipe cutter designed for copper pipes is very simple, inexpensive and extremely convenient tool. It is not recommended to substitute other tools (for example, metal saw)

Tube bender

A pipe bender is not usually needed for 1/4″ and 3/8″ diameter tubing, but may be necessary if skill is lacking in order to avoid “kinking” the tubing.

A set of wrenches

These are needed to fasten the outdoor unit to the brackets and to unscrew the brass caps on the valves and tighten the rolling nuts.

You can buy individually only necessary or adjustable wrench.

Hex set

Without them you can not open the valves on the outdoor unit and run the freon in the circuit.

Screwdriver Set

Need a Phillips head screwdriver and a small slotted (flat) screwdriver to tighten the wires in the terminal block.

Pliers

Stripping wire, biting off cable, etc.д.

Level gauge

It is used to maintain the correct slope so that the condensate from the drainage system flows out gravitationally.

We have considered the basic set of tools but you might need some more minor tools like a hammer for hammering in the anchor bolts, pliers, etc.д., Some of them can be replaced by others of similar functionality, for example, instead of pliers special wire insulation stripper.

Next article about consumables.

Managers of the company will answer all your questions, select the necessary equipment and prepare a commercial proposal.

Managers of the company will answer all your questions, choose the necessary equipment and prepare a quote.

How to choose a place for a conditioner?

Not only the comfort microclimate in the house depends on the right decision, but also the health of the occupants, durability of the split-system, the amount of electricity bills and unit maintenance. over, in the case of bearing walls errors can cause problems with the Technical Inventory Bureau and other agencies, and sometimes even the collapse of the building.

To avoid all described negative consequences when choosing a place and a conditioner’s mounting one should take into consideration many factors and we will speak about them below.

Restrictions for load bearing walls

Bearing walls are the thickest ones in the house, the main load is put on them, the damage of their construction threatens the safety of all lodgers.

External walls are always load-bearing, and that is why there is no choice for an outdoor air conditioner unit. Many owners are aspiring to hide the communications of the inside unit in a wall because of aesthetic considerations. A groove with a depth of 4. 7 cm is needed for this.

The reinforcement in the bearing walls is embedded just 3 to 4 cm from the surface of the wall. It means that the armature will have to be cut, and this is dangerous, in addition it is prohibited by SNiP 3.05.06 85. The prohibition of deep slotting also applies to brick load-bearing walls: although they do not have armature, but a significant reduction in thickness, especially. in the horizontal section, negatively affects the resistance to loads.

Does it mean that it is impossible to install air conditioner and communications in the bearing wall safely and legally? Certainly not.

There are several solutions at once:

• Routing the line in a box is the most common and versatile option, it is also used in the case of installing the air conditioner after finishing walls;
• Back-to-back installation is possible only in the case when a conditioner is hung up on the wall facing the street.
• Installation of the air conditioner line in a false-wall, column or other decorative structure on a wall or ceiling made of plasterboard. Encircling the whole wall with drywall one can organize at the same time sound insulation from the neighbors or warmth.

If you are not going to sell, give as a legacy or make other transactions with the apartment probably illegal wall drilled holes for installing conditioner will remain unnoticed and unpunished.

However, we strongly recommend not to do it for your own safety you live in this house, not installers.

HVAC TOOLS. ||AIRCONDITIONING TOOLS. ||SPLIT AC TOOLS.

Where to hang the outside part?

Efficiency and economical operation of split-system depends much on conditions of outdoor unit operation and length of the route. The better it cools and the closer it is, the easier it is to provide your dwelling with coolness.

First, the outside of the split system must be installed securely. Exterior walls are load-bearing, thick, suitable almost always. Difficulties may arise due to insulation or ventilated facade, also special attention requires fixing to the wall from aerated concrete. Only low-powered models weighing 10. 15 kg are allowed to be placed on the balcony railings.

Secondly, it is much easier for the condensation unit to work in the shade, on the northern or eastern side. In addition, the compressor and radiator must be well ventilated on all sides, so it is important to observe all the clearances given in the instructions. Usually it is 10. 30 cm from the wall and the sides, 60 cm at the front and at the top, at least 2m from the ground.

Thirdly, the outdoor unit of air conditioner must be located within reach, but at the same time not to disturb neither you, nor your neighbors.

Good places to install the outdoor unit:

• under the roof overhang;
• on an unglazed balcony;
• near a glazed balcony;
• Under a window, if the drainage pipe can be led out to the side;
• On the roof, if the routing will not be more than 10 to 20m, depending on the model.

The last thing to consider is the condensate drainage from the indoor unit. According to the regulations, it should be flushed down the drain, but in practice this is rarely feasible. The pipe is most often simply led outdoors, under the outdoor unit.

In this case it is necessary to provide, first of all, that it is lower than the indoor unit. And secondly, so that water does not get on passers-by, windows and the wall. You can take the drainage pipe separately from the main pipe between the blocks, just on the shortest way to the street with a small slope.

Where to place the indoor unit?

Also you can’t hang the indoor unit in a corner, it is necessary to back off at least 12 cm to the side and 10. 30 cm from the ceiling, the exact numbers are in the instructions. When installing on a bearing wall, it is especially important to choose a place close to the outside wall to minimize the length of the route in the box.

You can not hang the air conditioner above a radiator, in kitchen or other room with electromagnetic disturbances, behind a curtain, above a cabinet, above a bed or a working place. In the latter case, you are guaranteed regular colds, in the rest of the unit will not be able to work efficiently, can soon break down.

How to install the cooler. instructions

Split-system is mounted in several stages:

• Determine where to hang the outdoor unit and indoor unit. Mark out a route for laying the communications harness.
• Drill through the wall and lay the lines. Fix indoor unit and connect freon pipes, wiring and drainage to it.
• Put the outdoor unit, connect all communications to it.
• Perform pre-commissioning works.

It is important to follow this sequence of operations. Do not mount the base plate of the indoor module first and then drill a hole for the harness, because when drilling you can bump into the fittings, which will cause the tool to move sideways or upwards. In the first case, the route will look crooked, and in the second you will not withstand the requirements for the slope of the pipes and the plate will have to rearrange higher.

Immediately give recommendations on the proper placement of units and the arrangement of the route:

• It is necessary to hang the inside air-conditioner unit in such way that the air stream does not blow on you directly, otherwise you will catch cold. Optimal place. directly on outer wall or on side bulkhead near window.
• The minimum distance from the ceiling to the climate unit is 100 mm, but it is better to give 30 cm. A minimum clearance of 125 mm between the casing and the side wall is required to provide enough space for curtains.
• The exterior module must be located so that it can be operated safely at height. The most convenient place is on the wall within a non-glazed loggia or balcony. If they are not available, the unit should be located under a window so that the master can reach the service ports and all parts of the unit. compressor, heat exchanger, and so on.
• Distance from building structures to the back wall of the outdoor module. 20 cm, to the side wall. 300 mm, as shown on the diagram.
• According to the rules the lines should be laid with a slope towards the street. Along the way there should not be stagnant areas in the form of loops, facing up or down.

Tip. To put the outdoor unit on the wall at the side of the window. wrong. Although you can reach the service ports, you cannot disassemble the unit without fully disassembling it. The master who has come for compressor repair, has the full right to refuse to carry out works of the raised danger (at height).

Mounting the inner block

First of all we advise you to unpack the product, take out the instruction manual and carefully study it. The matter is that scheme, presented in technical certificate shows you exactly how to install and connect split-system of this model correctly. Remove the wall plate from the case at once. Then the procedure is as follows:

• Drill through the exterior wall so that the channel goes with a slope towards the street. The optimal diameter of aperture is 50 mm. It is very desirable to put in it a special plastic sleeve.
• Unpack the installation kit and immediately wrap the ends of the freon pipes to prevent dust and moisture from getting into them. Connect the other ends with the communications nested in the niche on the back of the room module.
• Strip the cable ends, feed it through the rear opening of the case and connect it to the terminals, sketching a small diagram on paper to memorize the colors.
• Form a bundle of lines and cable as shown in the diagram below, then carefully wrap with PVC tape. Do not twist the pipes together!
• Now precisely position the mounting plate of the unit and secure it to the partition with wall plugs, making sure it is horizontal.
• Together with an assistant slip the wiring harness into the hole, while installing the inner module on the plate (it is fixed on the latches).

Tip. If you have decided to install a split in the process of repairing your home, it is better to lay interblock communications covertly, having cut grooves in the walls along the route. Do the same with the power supply cable. How to do it yourself, tells in the following

What you need to know for successful installation and connection of the interior. First of all, when twisting the refrigerant lines turn the coupling nut holding the mating part with a wrench, not the other way around as shown in the photo. Otherwise you will “twist the head” of the factory tube and have to solder it. Also do not tighten the nut with great force so as not to squeeze out the valving, which will later cause a leak of freon.

The second nuance: mount the plate clearly on the level, embedded tray for condensate is already made with the right slope. And the last thing: do not insert the power cable into the socket, it looks ugly. Conceal a separate line from your fuse box.

Since the article a priori can not contain all the details, otherwise it risks turning into a novella, we advise you to watch a video on the installation, shot by an experienced craftsman:

Install outdoor unit

When installing an outdoor air conditioner unit in an apartment, it is important to use caution and to protect yourself with a safety net. Ask a helper to hold you by your waist while you make the fasteners, or use a safety harness. Installation technology is not complicated and looks like this step by step:

• Using a construction level, mark the points of drilling on the wall and make holes for anchors.
• Insert the external unit’s mounting bolts into the brackets with the heads facing down, calculating its position on the wall. Secure them with special plastic washers to prevent them from falling out.
• Install the brackets by securing them with anchors. Place the external module on them, aligning the holes with the bolts. Use a ring spanner with an extension cord to tighten the mounting nuts.
• Install connections to the unit by screwing the tubing to the ports and connecting the cable to the terminals.

Tip. Do not hurry to mount the canopy at once, it will prevent you from working with service ports during start-up. How the installation of the outdoor split system is done is shown in the video:

The final step is to start the system

All new air conditioners are factory charged with Freon contained in the outdoor unit. Your task is to fill the whole circuit without losses and start the split system. The procedure is as follows:

• Connect the outermost hose of the gauge manifold to the spool of the service port on the gas side (a larger diameter tube fits to it). Connect the middle hose to the vacuum pump. Make sure that all taps are closed.
• Turn on the pump unit and open the manifold valves. During the first 10-20 seconds of operation, bleed air through the fitting provided on the pump.
• Vacuum the system for at least 20 minutes if the line length does not exceed 5 m. The goal is to completely remove moisture from the circuit and pump out the air, as you will be informed by the pressure gauge on the manifold (it will show a pressure of minus 1 Bar).
• After a half hour, close the valve and stop vacuuming, then wait at least 20 minutes, watching the gauge pointer. If it starts to rise to zero, your system is leaky and needs to be redone.
• Using an Allen wrench, unscrew the service port tap on the liquid side and then on the gas side, filling the circuit with refrigerant.
• Turn on air conditioner and check its conditionability. When the pressure in the system rises, quickly unscrew the hose from the manifold and put all the plugs.

Warning! If you use connector for connection of gauges to the port for freon R410, unscrew nut of connector itself but not hose for disconnection! Otherwise all the Freon will escape into the atmosphere.

After the termination let conditioner work on all modes and be sure that condensate is flowing exactly from the drain and not in another place (for example along the wall under the inside module). information about installing the outdoor unit and running the split you can get by watching the last video:

Suppose you accidentally let out the factory refrigerant into the atmosphere or the gas went through a bad connection. Remove the reason of a leak, buy freon in a bottle and recharge a conditioner, using our recommendations.

What tools are necessary for installation and mounting of conditioner in an apartment?

While watching the work of masters on installation of conditioners many people think that this problem is not difficult and it is real enough to do it by yourself. If specialists do the assembling, really there is nothing especially difficult in it. You only need to have the appropriate knowledge and skills, all the necessary tools and know how to use them. Accurate compliance with the rules of assembly and installation determines the duration of operation of climate systems.

If you have bought a window monoblock conditioner, then you will not find any special obstacles for installation by yourself. The main thing in this is to prepare an opening for mounting, and the necessary tools will be found in every man.

Air conditioner installation with one’s own hands

Air conditioner installation is a hard and responsible job. If your apartment is located on the upper floors, this procedure even involves a risk to life. To mount it correctly follow our instruction. If you don’t want to risk your health and mistakes that will disable the technique. order the fixing of the conditioner to the professionals.

Determining a place for mounting the outdoor unit

The outdoor compressor unit must be mounted on sturdy brackets that will hold its weight. It is not necessary to take too thin metal. The outdoor blocks are often mounted between window apertures or under the window sill.

When choosing a place for the unit make sure that in the case of repair it will be accessible to professionals. The place of installation should not be near a gas pipe where there is the possibility of a leak. The unit must be protected from rain and afternoon sun with a canopy and well ventilated. That is why it is necessary to keep recommended by the manufacturer distances from the block up to other surfaces.

If conditioner is setting on the first floor it is worth to think over an anti-vandal box for positioning an outside unit.

Installation of air conditioner with your own hands: making installation by the instruction in an apartment

It is necessary to choose and install conditioner beforehand, not waiting for the summer heat. In this way it is possible to economize a considerable sum, especially if to do the installation individually. In order the equipment will work without failures the installation of air conditioner with your own hands should be done strictly according to the manual in a proper place. Non-compliance with specifications or wrong selection of parts will lead to a quick breakdown of the split-system.

Preparation for work performance

As a rule the decision to do the split system installation spontaneously comes after checking the from specialists. Incredibly high amount of money for 3 hours of work is explained by availability of expensive tools and its wear and tear in the process of operation. This is what makes up the bulk of the master fee.

If to look at recommendations of manufacturers of the equipment it is often specified in instructions that preparatory works can be made by yourselves, and here for installation of pipelines, connection to an electric network, carrying out of vacuumization process it is desirable to invite experts with corresponding tools.

Tools for equipment installation

Carry out installation of the cooling system by yourself is possible, t.к. Most of the tools are in the suitcase of the domestic handyman. An exception can be a vacuum pump, but you do not need to buy it. you can make such a machine from the old parts.

Some masters teams do not even use this equipment when laying the route up to 6 m long.

In the process of installation an important aspect is the observance of the horizontal positioning of block systems. In connection with these requirements, each step of the work must be accompanied by a control check with a construction level.

If a tool is not available, it can be rented from a hardware store.

It will be necessary to prepare in advance the following equipment:

• Peorator. Used to make holes in the facade through which the route that summarizes the outdoor and indoor units will be laid.
• Drill with a set of drill bits. Used for mounting fasteners.
• Pipe cutter to cut copper pipes.
• Device for deburring after pipe cutting. You can use a rimmer, file and sandpaper.
• Copper pipe rollers.

Some people think that using a reamer makes no sense, especially if the pipe cutter is new and does not leave burrs and dents, but in vain.

Only after the manipulation with the beveler the edge of the flared pipe can be pressed very tightly by the nut and consequently there is less chance of a freon leak.

According to the technical rules of installation, it is necessary to have a vacuum pump. the sealing of the air conditioning system is performed with this equipment. After filling the line with the refrigerant, the process of vacuumization is performed.

The purchase of necessary materials

You will need a lot of accessories, but they are readily available at any specialized store. Do not forget that the materials should be of the highest quality and chosen exclusively for the device, functionally aimed at the cold.

You need to buy a wire for power supply and connection of the units. In the passport or in the installation instructions of the equipment, they always indicate the necessary parameters.

As a standard. it is a four-core power cable with the cross-section area of 2 mm 2 or 2,5 mm 2. The length is selected on the basis of the distance of the route, taking into account a small margin.

It is also necessary to prepare seamless pipes of thick-walled soft copper, designed for cooling devices. Pipes of smaller and larger diameters. specific specifications are in the owner’s manual.

The length is equal to the length of the route plus an extra margin of 30 cm. In the process of transporting the tubes, their edges must be plugged to prevent dust from settling inside the product.

Heat insulation made of foam rubber is used to insulate the pipes. Sell it in sections of 2 m. For the implementation of insulation measures will require a length equal to the length of the route. Synthetic insulation is used on two pipe diameters.

As a drainage pipe experts recommend installing a corrugated hose equipped with a spiral of plastic inside. You can also use an alternative part. a polypropylene pipe. Its length equals the length of the trace with an extra 80 cm.

And two L-type brackets will also be needed to secure the unit from the outside. Suitable size of parts is determined by its size, and the margin of safety in terms of carrying capacity should exceed its weight by 5 times. This increase in the maximum allowable stress of the part is required to compensate for the loads of wind and snow.

It is better to buy these components in the firm which is engaged in sale of spare parts for household split systems.

As attachment details are used: anchors, dowels and bolts. Their number, type and parameters are selected based on the type of brackets and fixing plate designed for the internal unit.

It also matters the type of the walls, where the external part of the system is to be mounted. To camouflage the mowing line, we needed a plastic box of standard dimensions 6080 cm.

Installing the split system with your own hands

for services of a master air conditioner installer are close to the cost of equipment, so many people prefer to do it themselves. To perform technical work, you need to know how to install an air conditioner yourself in an apartment or office. The procedure is not complicated, but it requires care and attention.

• Electrical wiring. If there are old cables, aluminum wires, no grounding, you must not install air conditioner in the house. Power of electrical plugs is also important. They must be able to withstand the amperage specified in the equipment passport a small margin.
• The outer part of the walls. On the building material depends on the method of attachment and the depth to which the brackets can be installed.
• Receptacle availability. It should be no higher than 50 cm from the level of the floor, batteries, various pipes.

If any irregularities are detected, they must be eliminated before installing and connecting the equipment. Otherwise the wiring will burn out or the equipment will not last long.