Angle Grinder Stand Which Is Better

Rectangular bed

Very stiff in itself, this profile allows the construction of a rigid and sturdy bed. importantly, the pendulum arm made from this material does not flex very much during operation.

But the bed frame is only half the battle. On top of the frame, you need to put a “table top”. a plate on which the processed material will be placed under the angle grinder.

If the frame is made of metal, sheet metal is the best material for the workbench. However, a thick sheet of plywood or chipboard is also quite suitable. Just do not forget that a fairly wide slot must be provided in the tabletop directly under the disc of the angle grinder in the table top, which ensures the disc through the material to be cut.

The upright is a very busy pendulum saw unit. Using a metal profile will create a strong and rigid structure.

When using metal as the basic element of the machine, preference should be given to welded joints. Of course, metal profile products can also be connected with bolts.

But such connections do not provide the required rigidity.

Manufacturing options

Honestly, the do-it-yourself racks available in many designs should rather serve as food for thought. It is worth taking a closer look at the design, typical dimensions of standard elements and general design principles. Then apply them in our particular case.

The fact is that the dimensions of the structure and individual nodes will entirely depend on what you have at hand. For a large angle grinder (eg 230 angle grinder), you may need to make a holder larger than shown in the drawing. This will entail the need to replace bearings, and so on.

The general principles are clear enough. The simplest and most used machine is the transformation of a hand-held angle grinder into a stationary pendulum saw. This design consists of a frame, a stand and a pendulum arm, which is hinged on the stand.

Consider manufacturing options depending on the materials available.

Wooden elements

If it is not possible to make the basic elements of a pendulum saw from metal, do not despair. Many structural elements can be made from wood. First of all, this is the bed, swing arm and angle grinder holder.

The frame can be made from any suitable lumber. Frames made of solid and heavy timber of considerable cross-section are very good. They are both durable and quite heavy. This ensures the stability of the entire machine.

The frame, assembled from an oak bar with a section of 100×100 mm, is certainly impressive. But it is too expensive. Thick bars of larch or even birch are quite suitable for the base of the desktop.

But for the manufacture of the pendulum arm, you can just use the noble types of wood, traditionally used in furniture production. Oak would be quite appropriate here.

When constructing a machine from wood, do not forget about the overall rigidity of the structure. Significant dimensions of the bed make it possible to ensure the strength and rigidity of this part when manufactured from not the highest quality materials.

The pendulum arm has a long, elongated design. If made of wood, its geometry can be unstable with changes in temperature and humidity.

For this structural element, it is better to use the so-called furniture board, consisting of several wooden elements glued together.

Materials and tools

The first question that a home craftsman faces when designing an angle grinder stand is what to make it from. The answer to this question is elementary: we will do what we have. If you have water pipes at hand, they will come in handy for making hinges and guides. If there is a metal corner, we will assemble a frame from it.

The main and most difficult part of a pendulum saw is the hinge assembly. It carries the greatest loads, while the pendulum arm should not be able to freely deflect to the left or right. Consider the design of this node with the greatest care. Roller bearings are ideal. Pick a pair of suitable sizes. and already “around them” build the rest of the structure.

It is best to mount the pendulum arm on ball or roller bearings. This will provide the best precision and rigidity. But if there are no suitable finished products, it is quite possible to spy on the options for homemade designs of this node.

If there are no ready-made bearings, match pairs of metal tubes and steel pins of suitable diameters. This will make it possible to make not too high-quality, but home-made bearings. For a “plywood” machine as a suspension of the pendulum arm, good canopy hinges used for fastening doors and gates will do.

In any case, the pendulum arm itself is best made from a metal corner or metal profile. But the holder in which the angle grinder will be fixed will probably be made of a wooden bar.

For a secure and tight fixation of the angle grinder in the holder, it is better to glue the stock with a soft and durable material. For example, leatherette. And it is most convenient to press the angle grinder to the holder with flexible metal ties with a screw assembly. These are widely used in plumbing and car service.

The bed is best made from a thick sheet of metal. Compromises are possible, down to thick plywood fixed to a timber frame. It is good to provide on the desktop the possibility of fixing the abutment corners at some standard angles to the cutting axis. Thus, we get a “miter saw”.

Do not forget that you will not be able to control the inclusion of the angle grinder on the machine in the usual way. We can replace the operator’s hand on the control keys with the same cable ties for pipelines. But the keypad control post (which we will fix on the bed), a socket for connecting a fixed angle grinder to the circuit and a wire with a plug of sufficient length to connect the entire machine to the network should be saved.

If we have metal blanks at our disposal, it is best to connect them by welding. If you do not have such an opportunity, it is better to contact the familiar masters of this business. Bolted connections loosen over time and negate all the advantages of a metal frame.

Of course, the angle grinder itself will come in handy in the manufacture of the machine. Cutting with its help blanks for the rack, you can feel like Munchausen pulling himself out of the swamp by the pigtail.

Carriage made of pipes and shock absorbers

If there are water pipes, a pair of car shock absorbers and a metal corner or profile in stocks. you can make a wonderful cross-cut (aka “cut-off”) machine with a transverse horizontal carriage feed.

The pendulum unit is still required to bring the tool into the cutting plane. But the carriage, movable along the pendulum arm, allows you to significantly expand the range of material sizes. Now you can cut quickly and accurately not only pipes, profiles and beams.

The horizontal carriage travel allows you to neatly cut sheet materials as wide as we can design the carriage overhang.

Complex rail assemblies with spring-loaded bearings are usually designed to ensure smooth yet accurate carriage travel. But you can use car shock absorbers. They have a very robust and precise construction. If you remove gas and liquid, you get excellent guides.

The rear shock absorbers of VAZ cars have a stroke of almost 200 millimeters. This will allow, for example, when attaching an angle grinder-230 to a carriage, to organize a cutting line up to 400 mm long. But even if you have a compact angle grinder with a disc only 150 mm in diameter, you can still cut sheets up to 200 mm wide. This more than covers most of the daily tasks.

When designing a “guide-carriage” assembly based on automobile shock absorbers, it should be taken into account that the shock absorber bodies themselves are rather thin and easily wrinkle. Such “guides” should be fixed to the upper arm of the pendulum with semicircular clamping brackets. This is where water pipes come in handy.

Making a stand for an angle grinder with your own hands

Angle grinders (angle grinder) are an irreplaceable hand tool. With their help, you can saw, grind, cut almost any material from wood to stone. But often there are tasks that require the use of a machine park.

For example, when cutting pipes, profiles or metal profiles, the task of cutting a long string into segments of a certain length is quite common. In this case, it is important that the ends of the segments are strictly perpendicular to the axial mowing line.

When cutting tiles or bricks, it is even more difficult to maintain a square cut by holding the angle grinder by hand. When cutting thin and sticky material, the slightest deviation of the tool from the mowing line of the cut can lead to jamming and breakage of the tool.

In such situations, it is quite natural to desire not to buy a separate machine. this, as a rule, is economically impractical.

You can expand the scope of your favorite hand tool by rigidly fixing it in some way.

Plywood parts

An interesting solution to the problem of stiffness can be the use of plywood in a wooden structure. The multidirectionality of veneer layers in this material imparts a certain dimensional stability to plywood products. The fact that the product consists of many thin layers, connected with strong glue, provides strength.

Plywood is great for making beds and work tables. When designing, it should be borne in mind that plywood is very strong and stable in the plane of the product. But the plane itself can undergo deformation. Therefore, plywood products should be mounted on rigid frames.

A good example of a design is a multi-plywood assembly with intermediate gluing and bolting.

The result is very strong, rigid and stable structures.

Keyboard Stand Yamaha L85

The Yamaha L85 stand is ideal for installing the P95 and P85 digital pianos. The structure is beautifully engineered. The musical instrument is securely fastened to ensure its safety while playing. The stand is attached to the bottom of the synthesizer. It is worth noting that the Yamaha L85 stand is ideal not only for home, but also for studio and stage.

Among the advantages of the product, it is worth highlighting its low weight and excellent stability. The rack is made in black. It installs easily and attaches to the keyboard. The Yamaha L85 stand is suitable for musicians of all levels. Plus, it’s easy to operate.

angle, grinder, stand, which, better

Keyboard stand Axelvox KST-11

If you often rehearse performances, often practice, then you will need a reliable and high-quality stand for a musical instrument. These are the qualities that the Axelvox KST-11 design possesses. In addition, it is possible to adjust the height of the stand. At the same time, the musical instrument will always be securely fixed.

The Axelvox KST-11 cross folding stand is made of sufficiently strong metal. The design is reliable and can serve for more than one year. The design is equipped with a spring clip. This allows you to fix the musical instrument at a certain height. As a rule, the design is sold with a cover. This allows you to transport the rack, if necessary, without the risk of damaging it.

Wooden structure

The keyboard stand can be made of wood. Such structures are usually made of chipboard. This is the cheapest option. However, some manufacturers make solid wood musical instrument stands. Of course, the cost of a solid wood product is much higher and not everyone can afford it.

The main disadvantage of such a rack is that it is simply impossible to fold it and put it in a secluded corner. In addition, the height of the structure cannot be adjusted. And this suggests that such coasters are not suitable for children. Of course, wood construction also has advantages. Among them, it is worth highlighting the strength of parts and stability. In addition, a wooden stand for a synthesizer will allow you to revive almost any interior a little.

Synthesizer stand: selection features

For those who are learning to play the synthesizer or are able to fully play this instrument, it is very difficult to do without a special stand. And this is not surprising. After all, the instrument itself is quite heavy and has considerable dimensions. It is for this reason that a synthesizer stand is required. However, the choice of such products is wide enough. If you are a beginner, it will be difficult for you to decide on the type of rack. What are they and how to choose the right one?

Axelvox KST-21 stand

Stand for keyboard musical instruments Axelvox KST-21 is a reliable and high-quality construction. Products of this model are made of powerful metal. The design is perfect for many modern electronic musical instruments. The Axelvox KST-21 stand is cross-shaped and equipped with a double frame. This provides additional reliability and stability of the product. If necessary, the structure can be transported. After all, it folds easily.

Which is better?

Recently, there has been a debate about which synthesizer stand is better: X or XX-shaped. According to many, the design of the latter type is much more stable. However, its cost is significantly higher than the cost of the X-shaped. It is worth noting that racks made of metal are more convenient and budgetary. This explains their popularity. In addition, if necessary, they can be folded and hidden in a place inaccessible to prying eyes. These stands take up little space.

Stand CASIO CS-44

The CASIO CS-44 Synthesizer Stand is an updated model from CASIO. The product is distinguished by its reliability and stability. Such equipment is intended for installing a digital synthesizer or a piano. The stand is equipped with special elements that securely fix and hold the musical instrument. Synthesizers of such models as CDP-200, CDP-220, CDP-100, CDP-120 can be installed on the structure.

The construction is made of multilayer plywood and plastic. The rack has an additional stiffener, as well as a wide non-slip surface for a musical instrument and wide support legs. Such a product will perfectly fit into almost any interior. The relaxed design makes your musical instrument look more graceful.

Metal synthesizer stand

Another advantage of such models is the ability to adjust the height. This synthesizer stand is ideal for kids. After all, they grow rapidly. The stand height is easily adjustable. It can be gradually increased and, if necessary, reduced. This opportunity will allow an adult to play the instrument while sitting. And this is important for long and frequent lessons.

Angle grinder stand which is better

Stand for an angle grinder (angle grinder) with your own hands or a homemade cutting machine

As I said earlier, there are two problems in the garage. cut exactly and drill exactly. The problem with drilling is solved, the drill stand was worth the time and money spent. An angle grinder was gathering dust in the corner for a long time, waiting in the wings. Exactly an angle grinder. made back in 1977 into an angle grinder on “ELPROM LOVECH”, terribly heavy but, according to rumors, a very reliable angle grinder. I tried to work for her. I considered myself, if not a cool specialist, then certainly a seasoned one. The big MAKITA 9069 has always worked, the thing is quite powerful and heavy. But the angle grinder is a wild beast compared to the Makita. With a power similar to that of 1.9 kW, it is noticeably heavier, moreover, specifically mine for 180 mm discs and output revolutions of 8500 rpm. In general, I decided then that I would no longer take it into my hands (it’s ssykotno) and the way to her was only in the rack. And I wanted to make a stand for a long time. And of course the rack should be as usual. “light, strong and reliable”. I must say right away that the only justification for the work done is “well, this is FOR YOURSELF, for many years, a good tool is never simple.”.

I started out like everyone else. I welded a rectangle for the base.

Base. pipe 5050 and 45th angle.

For the hinge, the rear hub is taken, like with CHERY TIGGO. I cut off the central protrusion from it, knocked out the ABS sensor.

Rear hub from chery tiggo.

The hub is attached to the channel, in which a hole for fastening is cut. The cut angle grinder is quite difficult by the way. Modified with a file.

Hole in the channel for the hub.

The main bracket for the angle grinder began to be made from the angle grinder itself. First, I adjusted the corners to the standard attachment points for the handles, then welded a third corner between them.

Then I bent the bracket-clamp over the body of an angle grinder made of 2 mm steel.

Bracket. clamp made of 2 mm steel.

I welded a bolt to this clamp and connected it with a corner to the fastening part. I welded a 50X50 pipe with holes for attachment to the hub to the entire structure.

The bolt adjusts the position of the angle grinder relative to the table. Next, I weld the 60th corner to the base. the channel will be attached to it. I estimate the location and drill the channel and the corner under it. The mounting bolts will be different. M10 and M12, this is due to the second adjustment, the channel should turn slightly due to the enlarged bolt holes.

Fastening the channel to the base.

Then I welded two more pipes. guides for the pressure mechanism, and also reinforced the structure with two sections of the 50th corner.

Almost finished desktop.

Then, on top of all this, I weld sheets with a thickness of 4 mm. No matter how hard I tried, but a perfectly flat surface did not work out, there are differences of 1-1.5 mm, but in practice this does not affect the accuracy of the cut.

Now you can build the installation. I additionally reinforce the channel and the main bracket with corners. The total weight of the installation is not yet critical, but already quite interesting.

Then there was the longest and most dreary thing. equipment for work. This is an emphasis and clamp for the workpiece, this is a return spring, this is a table expander. Let’s start with the workpiece support. We take a segment of the 50th corner, weld a small rectangle to it.

Workpiece stop.

Now you need to cut an arc in it so that you can cut workpieces at any angle. Using the template, I first drill the holes in an arc. Then I grind the arc completely with a milling cutter.

Miter arc.

Now the pressure device. The screw is taken from the old and bent eighth jack. I reasoned rightly that it would be better than the usual Chinese hairpin. I grinded the end of the screw down to 6 mm and cut the thread.

The old jack is consumed.

For the moving part, the most difficult thing is to make the axle. I made from a piece of the same Chinese hairpin, I will say right away. I did not use a lathe, I grinded an angle grinder to the required diameter, albeit with some devices.

DIY Angle Grinder Stand

Movable part. Chipped without turning.

And this is already assembled and in its place.

It remains to fix the nut. The clamping device was planned to be removable, therefore it is attached to the bolts, the thread is cut right in the worktable. Sealed the jack nut with pieces of 4 mm steel.

Since the clamp was ready, I decided to cut the pipe for the table legs, and at the same time see how it all works. As a result, I made a cutout on the workpiece stop. the angle grinder rested against it. Also a little later I cut the clamp in width.

The clamping device is assembled.

By the way, in the photo you can see the nuts with lambs. I worked with them one cut. Never use wing nuts in such places, manual force is extremely insufficient for a good fixation of the stop. This is an invaluable experience. the nuts are loosened, the disk is scattered to shreds. Now there are ordinary nuts, I always tighten very tightly.

Next is the return spring. Well, like a spring. I thought it would be a spring, but in the end it turned out to be something cooler. I realize I complicated things myself, but the result was worth it. I just imagined what a powerful spring is needed to hold the angle grinder, and that the force at the end of the cut should not be small. In addition, after the cut, the angle grinder must be gently moved upwards. And I wanted. to cut it, let it go, and she herself SOFTLY returned to its original position. What is needed for that? The gas stop, of course, from nine, has long been lying on the shelf. And yet. the return system must be hidden, that is, it must work from below. This means you will need additional rods and levers. In fact, this was done quite easily, I would even say quickly. First, I made a slot in the table for the lever. The lever itself was made from a corner, through many fittings I gave it the desired shape. The lever is attached directly to the hub, to the standard stud.

Return lever.

Some more details will be needed. the gas stop itself, a long thrust to it, a clamp bent from an M6 hairpin. The emphasis rose as it was. It worked the first time. At first it seemed that it lifted a little, but when the angle grinder was overgrown with all sorts of handles and a casing, it turned out just right.

Details of the return mechanism. Mechanism in positions compressed-unclenched.

Well, actually that’s almost all. A spark arrester was also made. just a tin screwed in the path of sparks. I also put a separate drive handle. I screwed the pipe to the main bracket, and to the pipe. a standard side handle with an angle grinder. Of course, I made an extension of the table, on the principle of a pipe in a pipe. There was an ambush here, a 45X45 pipe enters the 50X50 pipe. It exists in principle, but in fact it is nowhere to be found. I had to weld 4 mm strips onto a 40X40 pipe. There will be two permanent fixtures on the extension. an additional workpiece stop. it is needed so that the cut part is not picked up by the disk and does not fly away, and an additional stop for “cloning” the part. if you need two or more parts of the same length, you do not need to measure the length before each cut.

Expansion of the table and fixtures on it.

Yes, I forgot about the protective cover. The native casing was long lost, it was already under the 230th disc. I increased it where possible to the maximum and made a folding part for it like on factory assembly saws.

Protective casing and flap to it.

It was only when it was time to paint that I saw the number of parts of the “simple and light” angle grinder stand. It is better to move the assembly together with two people. No, you can of course alone. but it’s very hard.

Ready to go.

Upon completion, several factors became apparent that made the plant difficult to operate. First, you need a permanent place for it, it just won’t work to carry it back and forth, and there is not always an assistant for this. Second, you need to slow down. At 8500 rpm, you cannot work with a 230 disc, and 180 is not enough. the clamping mechanism interferes. At present, I am actively introducing feedback control into the system so that the set speed does not sag under load. In addition, it will be possible to use saw blades for metal (3000 rpm for the 230th blade) and for wood (about 4000 rpm). And if you wish, you can stick a 355 mm disc, though you have to finish the table and make a new casing.
If you have any questions. viewing for 10 minutes. the video below will help you figure it out.

Component parts

Before starting work, you need to decide on which homemade design is suitable for certain operating conditions. Most often, to assemble a high-quality bed, you need to prepare the following parts:

  • Bolts for secure fixing.
  • Hardwood that will be able to withstand any loads applied to it, without deformation during operation.
  • Keys.
  • Metal corners.
  • Fastening materials.
  • In some cases, a chipboard plate may be needed.
  • A profiled metal tube is suitable for a strong and secure attachment of the angle grinder.
  • 12V relay.
  • Bolt fixing tools.
  • Drill.

Separately, it should be noted that only the bracket that was assembled using a welding machine will have the highest strength characteristics. But it is precisely due to the bolts that you can create a collapsible structure that can be moved to any other place.

Pendulum frame

A device for a pendulum angle grinder can be easily created with your own hands. Main structural elements:

  • Support or bed. the part from which the vertical stand departs and where the workpiece is laid for cutting. The supporting part also performs the main function of keeping the entire machine in a stable position.
  • A vertical fixed stand, or a tripod for an angle grinder. this structural element is part of the pendulum mechanism and a support for a movable arm.
  • Sliding bar or console. a part to which the angle grinder is directly attached.

The support is mainly made of sheet metal. It can be a factory bed, for example, from a drilling machine or any other where there is a flat platform. On the bed for an angle grinder, there must be a guide, where the pipe is abutted during cutting. The guide does not allow the workpiece to move during the operation. In addition, for greater convenience, you can equip the support with a clamping mechanism, which will motionlessly fix the pipe to the guide during operation of the angle grinder.

A stand, or tripod, is a vertically going up element. It can be made from a shaped or round pipe. In the upper part, a bearing unit is attached for the movable connection of the rack to the pendulum arm of the angle grinder. The height of the tripod depends on the dimensions of the angle grinder and the swingarm device. The type of pipe (its geometric parameters and wall thickness) is selected depending on the power and weight of the power tool.

The pendulum bar of the angle grinder has two functions. Firstly, it rigidly holds the angle grinder, thereby preventing the disc from moving in the axial direction. Secondly, with the help of it, the tool is fed into the processing area, that is, the angle grinder can be lowered into the working position, cut and returned to the starting position again. It also has a special handle to control the console.

Stand drawings for angle grinder

There are not so many drawings of such racks on the Internet. Basically, these are primitive sketches illustrating the principle of the device rather than the exact dimensions and order of its assembly. And even those that exist do not have all the necessary information.

And the very design of such devices quite often raises doubts about the use of such a drawing without a certain correction.

Therefore, we advise you not to waste time looking for them, but after carefully considering the options for implemented projects to create homemade racks for an angle grinder, choose the one that suits you. Or, taking into account their shortcomings, implement your own.

Overview of possible options for the manufacture of tines for an angle grinder

The angle grinder stand, as mentioned above, is a simple mechanism, but this statement applies only to the simplest designs. Having considered all the variety of factory-made devices and homemade products, three main types of devices can be distinguished:

  • the simplest pendulum bed;
  • pendulum mechanism with a rotary unit for cutting an angle grinder at different angles;
  • bed for an angle grinder with a so-called broach.

The most common and easy-to-make homemade angle grinder is based on a pendulum console. With the help of such equipment, you can easily saw various pipes of both round and profile sections, as well as rods, fittings and metal parts, the thickness of which does not exceed the thickness of the working part of the disk, and the length of the cut can be adjusted by moving the workpiece along the bed. Features of Attachment for Angle Grinder:

  • ease of manufacture and operation;
  • high reliability, since only one moving unit is used here;
  • such equipment will not be able to cut at an angle;
  • difficult to cut sheet material: low accuracy and injury risk.

The device of the bed with a swivel mechanism for the angle grinder allows you to carry out all the above-described metal cutting operations, but at the same time the function of sawing the angle grinder at different angles is added. There is also a pendulum unit here, and, besides it, the pendulum support itself can rotate, or the stop-clamp, which holds the workpiece, rotates. Features of the device:

  • expanded possibilities of metal processing angle grinder;
  • relative simplicity of design;
  • here it is more difficult to obtain an accurate perpendicular and corner cuts due to the rotary mechanism and the need to calibrate the angle.

The broaching mechanism is the most difficult to execute. In addition to the pendulum unit, it uses a pulling unit for an angle grinder in the horizontal direction.

Assembling the structure

When a craftsman decides to make his own tripod for an angle grinder, it helps to avoid a lot of costs, since factory models are expensive and short-lived. But a good result also depends on the presence of basic skills:

  • Ability to handle an angle grinder and a household welding machine.
  • Accurate hole drilling.
  • Free time and patience.

In order for the rack to meet all operational requirements, it must be assembled in a strict sequence. Depending on personal preferences, the master can develop his own drawing, which will correspond to a certain model of an angle grinder, or you can use ready-made drawings. In addition, before any manipulation, you need to check the operating condition of the main unit. If it does not work well and often breaks down, then there is no need to build a powerful frame for it.

Experts say that the assembly procedure for the angle grinder stand is as follows:

  • Initially, it is necessary to prepare a metal pipe, which must be carefully cut into segments of a certain length. All manipulations must correspond to the drawing used.
  • Drill small holes in the marked places.
  • At this stage, make the upper and lower frame.
  • Weld metal blanks with a welding machine or screw onto bolted joints.
  • Take a pre-prepared metal sheet or chipboard.
  • Depending on the diameter of the rack, cut the work surface.
  • Place the finished surface on the lower platform of the desktop.
  • Fix everything with bolts.
  • Attach the holder to the vertical frame in such a way that the pendulum type of rotation is free.
  • Carefully install a precise spring that will return the angle grinder to its original position every time.
  • One end of the spring should be fixed on the top of the end, but the other end on the holder.
  • It’s time to take a 12V relay that will help increase the comfort level of working with an angle grinder.It should be located in such a way that it is convenient to reach the button during operation.
  • Carefully inspect the condition of the wiring and check its performance.
  • In the workshop, be sure to provide a separate socket for the bed used.
  • Take quality paints, varnishes and primers to completely cover the created fixture. These manipulations will help to give the product a complete and effective look. In addition, a protective primer coating will protect the rack from the negative effects of corrosion.
  • At this stage, it remains to equip the structure with a movable ruler and a special limiter.
  • Check the finished bed for operability, start the angle grinder at idle speed.

When each of the above points is completed, you can safely proceed to the main work. cutting metal parts.

Quality counterweight with shock absorber

The safety of the bed is largely dependent on the counterweight. The most practical is the option when, at the moment of lowering the tool, it will automatically move to a vertical position, thereby stopping any cutting manipulations. It will be not only very convenient, but also safe. The easiest way is to install a spring mechanism, which must be matched to the characteristics of the angle grinder. The design itself will be compact and efficient.

A great idea is when the stand is equipped with powerful shock absorbers to ensure smooth movement of the tool. Even a beginner can handle such a unit.

With the stand, you can make cuts to a depth of 30-70 mm, with a cut width of 100 to 180 mm. By working with the stand, you can work with material at an angle of 0 to 45 degrees. Depending on the modification, the rack can weigh from 2.9 kilograms to 5 kilograms. The manufacturer offers an auxiliary element with base dimensions: 185×235 mm, 285×277 mm, 336×350 mm.

DIOLD C-12550011030

This model of stand can work with tools with discs with a diameter of 125 mm. The dimensions of the bed surface are 250×250 mm. The stand model is recommended for cutting pipes up to 35 mm. On such a device, you can work at an angle from 0 to 45 degrees. The mass of products in the basic configuration is 2 kilograms.

Angle grinder stands: features, specifications, tips for choosing

  • What it is?
  • Advantages and disadvantages
  • Models and their characteristics
  • Stands for angle grinder TM Vitals
  • DIOLD C-12550011030
  • D115 KWB 7782-00
  • Tips for choosing
  • How to apply?

Many construction tools can be operated both as separate equipment and in conjunction with additional accessories that can expand the functionality and facilitate the implementation of a number of tasks. This category includes an angle grinder and stands for them.

Today, many manufacturers offer tool owners just such accessories to obtain a multifunctional working machine for grinding and cutting various materials.


Multifunctional stand that is compatible with “angle grinders” with disc diameters from 115 mm to 125 mm. Suitable for household use. The device facilitates the work of the master, has a reliable fastening, therefore it is used to perform serial work with materials of various types. Rack cuts can be cut from 0 to 45 degrees.

Tips for choosing

In the course of selecting an accessory for the “angle grinder”, it is necessary first of all to decide on the question of the compatibility of the rack with the diameter of the discs that the angle grinder works with. It is important that the entire rack structure is fully compatible with the existing cutting and grinding tool. Therefore, you can go shopping together with the operated unit. As practice shows, pendulum struts are especially effective when working with ceramics, wood or metal, with which you can implement a wide range of tasks, in addition, they are quite simple in design and operation.

D115 KWB 7782-00

The bed is designed to work with discs with a diameter of 115 and 150 mm. The model has a protective cover and a solid base with a clamping system for working materials. The products are small in size, and the base of the stand itself is made in the shape of a square, which facilitates its stability.

Models and their characteristics

In light of the large variety of grinding machine stands available on the construction market from domestic and foreign manufacturers, it is worth considering the most demanded of them.

Advantages and disadvantages

For an objective understanding of the functionality of the racks for the “angle grinder”, you should consider their positive features.

  • In the course of work, you can accurately position the workpiece on the fixture. This detail is important for very precise cuts on hard and soft materials.
  • In the process of operating an angle grinder on a universal bed, the risk of injury hazardous situations is reduced, since the fixed tool will work with precise movements of the cutting element.
  • If you use the rack for all sorts of construction, production or repair issues, you can increase productivity and speed of solving work tasks.
  • If you install and fix a workpiece or structure made of wood or other material, then the quality of operations with the object will increase significantly.
  • Angle grinder stands for metal cutting allow the operator to position the workpiece at the desired angle. This can be done quickly and accurately. A vice will be very useful in this case.
  • The bed makes it possible to work with any type of raw material.
  • Most of the platforms allow you to fix the working element not only horizontally, but also vertically. Such a positive feature is relevant for prefabricated structures, with which the master performs manipulations without preliminary disassembly.
  • The work of the master is greatly facilitated, since the material will be securely fixed on the device, and it will not be necessary to hold it.
  • Racks can be used in a small workshop and at home. It is also possible to create homemade auxiliary elements.

However, this mechanism also has some disadvantages: