Remove the chuck from the drill with your own hands
Chuck replacement and options for solving problems
In the household, the most popular tool is an electric drill. Recently, especially popular are electric drills, called peorators. This tool allows you not only to drill a hole, but also with the use of nozzles to screw nuts, self-tapping screws, screws. An electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely, but fails. How to troubleshoot an electric drill. The main faults in electric drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.
Among the most common mechanical failures can be attributed to the failure of the chuck. And how to remove the chuck from an electric screwdriver and replace it? Let’s note right away that the chuck replacement on electric drill, electric screwdriver, peorator is absolutely the same. The cause of chuck failure is most often caused by the wear of the jaws. This is the most serious malfunction of an electric drill. Not without a complete chuck replacement. And how to remove the chuck from the drill will show video.
By the way! The offered chuck changing method is suitable for any modern model not only for electric drill, but also for peorator, screwdriver, because all given constructions provide exactly this way of the chuck fastening.
But, at drills of the Soviet production the chuck is kept on Morse cone and screwed up with a screw. How do you remove the chuck from the cone?? You can use a bearing puller for this or knock it down with a hammer.
Warning! When you buy a new power tool with a chuck, be sure to remove the chuck and carefully lubricate all mating parts and threads.
N8vfY1. To disassemble the electric drill check that the electric drill cable is disconnected from the mains. Use the special wrench to extend the jaws of the chuck to the greatest possible position. If you look inside the opened chuck, most often you will see a screw designed to attach the cam chuck to the motor shaft. Remove the screw normally using a Phillips screwdriver. Remember! The grub screw is left handed and can be unscrewed by turning the screwdriver clockwise. Remove the screw and put an L-square wrench in the place of the drill bit in the chuck and tighten it.
If the head of the screw has been worn out and you can’t use a screwdriver to remove it, proceed like this. Take the second drill, put a drill bit with the diameter of the screw head in it and proceed to drill out the screw. You’ll end up unscrewing the screw when you drill it out.
Insert an open-ended wrench on the motor shaft at the base of the chuck. There are models where the clearance between the chuck and the housing is very small. You will have to find or saw a thickness for the wrench. Wrench is needed for fixation of motor shaft. Earlier models have no key slots on the shaft. In this case, take apart the body of the drill, remove one cover. Clamp the drive pinion of the chuck shaft and the cooling fan simultaneously and with a sharp counterclockwise movement try to unscrew the chuck.
But back to the version with the wrench. Now, with the drill on a wooden flat surface and fixing the shaft with the wrench, hit the wood or rubber mallet on the protruding tail of the hexagon socket wrench counterclockwise. The chuck is fastened to the shaft by the thread. Rotate the chuck counterclockwise and remove it from the drill. If you don’t have an L-shaped hex wrench, you can use a drill with a suitable diameter that fits into one of the three holes for the clamping wrench.
Examine the chuck. If the cams are completely out of order, replace the chuck on the drill with a new one. Install the new chuck on the drill, performing all operations in reverse order. Remember! Always lubricate all moving parts when refitting a new chuck. Especially when it comes to threaded connections.
This is the case when it is necessary to replace a cam chuck. But power tools are also available with quick-action chucks.
Quick-change chucks allow you to change the drill in seconds without the need for any additional tools or attachments. Quick-change chucks are divided into one- and two-jaw chucks. One sleeve chucks have a special locking mechanism that stops the shaft at the moment you change the tool. You can perform the change operation with one hand. For a double-clamping chuck, tool changes must be made with both hands. Hold the first chuck with one hand and tighten the other chuck with the other hand. But quick-clamp designs do not secure the tool, especially in impact mode. And using plastic to make them often leads to chuck breakage. The cam-operated chuck is more secure and the parts it uses are made of metal only. To fix the tool, you must use a special wrench.
Ways to remove a quick-action chuck from a drill or electric screwdriver
The chuck is screwed onto the shaft and secured with a clamping screw. A quick-action chuck can be removed in the same way as a jaw chuck. First the locking screw is unscrewed clockwise. If you have on the shaft near the chuck flats for the wrench, put the key in the grooves, clamping in a chuck of any lever, try to unscrew the chuck by rotating it counterclockwise. Install the new chuck in the reverse order.
But the chuck can also be repaired In order to inspect the parts of the chuck, it must be dismantled. Suggests a proven and reliable way to disassemble an electric drill chuck.
Take an ordinary drill bit, remove the dust cover and insert the adapter. The adapter can be made from a defective impact drill. Adaptor is a drill bit shank with cut drill bit. Put the chuck on the adapter shaft and press it with a rubber damper or a wooden board. Before the chuck can be inserted into the adapter, the jaws must be pushed into the chuck until they are fully seated.
After assembling the construction, switch on the pedal in the impact mode. In 35 seconds the chuck must break apart. Immediately mark the cams and their places in different colors. The chuck can now be inspected and inspected for defects. If necessary the cams can be replaced with new ones. It is true that you will need to re-brill the jaws on a lathe. The other parts can easily be replaced if available.
But there are other mechanical malfunctions There are cases when the failure of an electric drill is caused by gearbox failure or poor operation of the bearings.
Working with the gearbox of an electric drill To get to the gearbox, you must disassemble the plastic housing of the electric drill. After removing the housing cover, free the chuck shaft and remove it. Larger diameter idler pinion is mounted on the shaft. On the shaft of the electric motor there is a small diameter spiral pinion. There is a bronze bushing in the gearbox housing, which most often leads to failure of the drill. This is due to its considerable wear and tear. Check bushing dimensions and have it turned by a turner. Use bronze as material, but caprolon may also be used. When replacing the sleeve in the gearbox, be sure to check the bearings, their tight fit and their packing with grease. If the gear teeth are heavily worn, they will have to be replaced. Gear teeth wear out when bearing sleeve fails. The larger diameter idler pinion wears out most often. Its replacement is simple, you just have to remove the retaining ring and the key. The old pinion must be removed from the chuck shaft. You can use a puller, or you can just gently knock it down with a hammer, placing wooden supports.
Electrical faults Let’s now have a look at the typical electrical faults of the drill. often the operation of an electric drill is interrupted by the wear of the brushes.
1.To change the brushes of an electric drill you need to remove the side cover of the body of the electric drill by loosening the fastening screws. There should be at least 7 of them. The housing is removed by gently prying at the edges with a screwdriver. After opening the access to the electric motor you will see two boxes, in which the brushes are installed. To get the brushes you need to loosen the boxes, unscrew the holders and pull out the worn out brush. Proceed in the same way with the second brush. Put new brushes in their place and wipe the contact area with a clean cloth soaked in white spirit.
2.Repair the power cord of an electric drill One of the unpleasant faults is the periodic stoppage of the electric drill in the process of work. This is most often caused by an unintentional loss of power. And the thing is that when the power cable enters the body of the drill, it experiences various loads, which leads to a breakage of wires.
To fix the problem, you must remove one of the side covers of the housing. Using a tester, check the integrity of the cable. If there is damage at the cable inlet in the enclosure, but the damaged piece is cut from the cable, a 20 cm piece of rigid chlorvinyl tube is put on the cable and the cable is put back in place and then connected.
To replace the button with a speed regulator, you just need to remove the housing cover, disconnect the wires from the regulator. A new regulator is installed in the same place and connected according to the diagram. If there is no diagram, then before removing the old regulator, it is necessary to sketch the wiring diagram.
3.Sparks inside the case Sparks inside the case are often caused by inter-turn short circuits in the armature windings. A second source of arcing is a dirty collector blade surface. Only a special tool can detect the presence of an inter-turn short circuit. But the dirt from the collector part can be removed by yourself, using fine sandpaper. After sanding, you must carefully remove dust from the slots between the contact plates, called blades. This is best done with an old hacksaw blade. On completion of the work the armature should be checked with a BCP tool.
How to remove the old socket
Cartridges that are fastened to the spindle with a thread are generally secured by a left-hand threaded screw for safety. For this reason, it is necessary to begin to remove the chuck by unscrewing this screw. Before unscrewing it, it is necessary to clear a path to it. To do this the chuck jaws need to be retracted as far back as possible.
If you now look in the chuck you will see a screw head for a Phillips or star screwdriver in the center of the bottom. To prevent this screw from being unscrewed, it is made with a left hand thread. Then unscrew it by turning the screwdriver to the right side, preliminarily clamping the assembly in a locksmith’s vice.
It is possible that the screw splines over the years of operation are clogged and that in order to capture them with a screwdriver bit, rotating it at the same time should be easily tapped with a pliers or a hammer until you feel the grip.
We clamp the free side of the hexagon in the vice jaws and using a suitable socket wrench unscrew the nut on the drill with which the chuck is attached to the spindle of the tool.
After that you can release the hexagonal socket from the vice and turning it to the left, completely unscrew the clamping unit from the spindle shaft.
How to install a new chuck
Screw the new chuck into the threads of the drill spindle by hand while turning it to the right until it is flush with the jam nut. We fix a hexagon in it and clamp its free end in a vice. Then use the open-jaw wrench to tighten the jam nut to the right as far as it will go and remove the hex wrench from the chuck.
Now it remains in the hole in the center of the bottom to screw in a screw with a left hand thread, using a screwdriver with a suitable bit. The chuck must be first clamped in a vice and the jaws retracted inside as much as possible.
To make sure that the chuck is replaced correctly, check that it sits firmly on the tool and that the drill bit is simply and firmly secured. Test-drilling showed that the tool works as good as new. So it is completely in order and can work as it should.
Before you disassemble the chuck from the drill, you need to find out the type of attachment on the shaft: cone or threaded connection. If the thread is left-handed, the manufacturers prudently put a stop screw. It can also be metric or inch.
The cone method of connection is formed by using a Morse cone (popularly called a tool cone). The chuck is mounted on such a shaft with little force for tightness. This is often the case with screwdrivers.
The table shows a step-by-step algorithm for removing drill chucks.
|Chuck||The way to unscrew the chuck on a drill is counterclockwise with a gas wrench. If necessary, the shaft can be clamped in a vice. In addition, the device is inspected for proper operation.|
|Jammed drill bit||A hammer is needed to pull out the nozzle. Apply a few light strokes from above on the jaws.|
|Technically||In order to disassemble the drill chuck a special device is included with the tool.|
|According to the folk||The drill is fixed with the drill bit downward. On the back of the tool, even blows are made with a hammer. This is how the chuck is knocked off the shaft.|
In the case of the threaded socket, install the cartridge in reverse order to the steps required for disassembly. In the second case, first the cone must be readjusted. Here you will need sandpaper (you can on cloth), file for burrs. After that, the clamping device is installed also with percussive movements, only with a cudgel.
In the case of the SDS-rod on the peorator, the procedure is as follows:
- the rubber seal is removed;
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the first circlip and washer;
- the second ring is removed after lowering the cover down in the same way as for changing the bit;
- the coupling guard is removed;
- SDS is disassembled in series (be sure to damage nothing): ball, washer, spring.
The way how to change the chuck on the peorator is simple. it is removed by analogy with the device for the drill on the threaded connection.
Assembly of the device is performed strictly in reverse order. It is worth noting that the above procedures are necessary not only to repair or replace the chuck on the peorator or drill. This is also important in order to maintain and check the serviceability of the tool.
How to remove and disassemble the chuck of an electric drill
Even small, minor repairs require proper disassembly. To date, there are only two mechanisms for attaching to the working shaft, so the process of disassembly may vary.
With the threaded method of attachment, disassemble the structure in the following order:
- to bury the cams inside the housing and separate them as much as possible;
- Perform the unscrewing of the fixing screw, located in the central bottom of the device. Fasteners with left-hand threads should be turned clockwise;
- Unscrew the device using a wrench put on the shaft.
If there are no flats, disassemble the housing and then clamp the rotor shaft in a vice. It is advisable to unscrew the element with a gas wrench.
The most popular and frequently used in modern tools is the tapered connection. In addition to the exceptional strength of the tapered connection, it can also be relatively easy to detach on its own if carried out correctly. To this end, the chuck is first tapped in a circular motion, and then the element is knocked off the shaft by a sharp and accurate blow to the back of the shaft.
After the chuck is removed, it is necessary to correctly determine the type of failure. You can do the repair yourself if there is no significant damage to the parts and jamming caused by metal chips trapped inside the adjacent parts. As a rule, to restore performance in this variant of failure, you can wash the elements in oil or kerosene with a soft small brush. After this method of cleaning, reassemble in reverse order.
Most often the owners of actively used tools are faced with a number of malfunctions caused by wear, as well as damage, which has undergone threaded or toothed parts. Minor local damage of this type can be easily repaired by grinding. For this purpose, it is recommended to use a nail file or a standard sandpaper. In the most severe cases of damage, it is often necessary to replace the defective cartridge completely.
How to remove the chuck from the drill
To dismantle and disassemble the chuck of an electric drill by yourself it is necessary to prepare a tool kit, presented:
- in a vise;
- with a hammer;
- Use a small mallet;
- with a chisel;
- with a file and emery cloth;
- Use a brush with soft bristles and an oil can;
- a set of gas wrenches;
- use a crescent wrench;
- with an awl;
- with a caliper.
The basic set of tools may vary slightly depending on the type of connection and the complexity of the dismantling work performed. Excessive force should not be used, as this can irreparably damage not only the outer, but also the inner working part of the device.
problems with the clamping mechanism
Before you start work, read the instructions for use with the tool. This will help to avoid a lot of problems. Remember that the drill is not used for milling, as the clamp can not withstand such a lateral load. Choose the right drill bit, pay attention to its sharpening, mark the center of the drill (with a drill core).
Sometimes the clamp jams during disassembly. If so, the device is disassembled and a complete cleaning and lubrication. This is especially common after drilling holes in the ceiling, because debris falls down inside the chuck. If the chuck falls off, increase the tension in the cone connection. To do this, heat the assembly to 110º in the oven and place it in the cold mounting location. Runout due to uneven breakage of the cams or wear of the tapered base is also possible. Need to change elements here.
When disassembling the clamp, be aware of its type. Reassemble in the reverse order after you have completed the prescribed procedures.
How to disassemble and lubricate a drill chuck
The usual cam-type chuck on drills and screwdrivers often freezes after prolonged use. It becomes more difficult to tighten and release the drill bit due to corrosion of the internal clamping mechanism and its subsequent deformation. It is possible to prevent this or even to give back life to an old chuck by oiling it from the inside.
Materials and tools:
First remove the chuck from the power drill or drill press. Its cams are set apart, and then a Phillips screwdriver is inserted between them.
The chuck is held in place by a left-hand threaded screw. To remove it, you rotate the tool clockwise. Sometimes there are screws with splines under the star, so you need an appropriate screwdriver.
Having removed the screw, it is necessary to unscrew the chuck from the shaft of the drill. This is done counter-clockwise. If the drill is used for a long time, it is not so easy to unscrew by hand. You have to fix the shaft. There is often a chamfer for the open-end wrench on the chuck that will make it easier to remove. If it is not available, it is better to pluck it by gripping the chuck with a pipe wrench.
Once the chuck has been removed, turn it down with the jaws and hit it in the center of the back with a small hammer. It’s done with the weight. Use your hand to squeeze the outer casing of the cartridge and aim the striker. It is not possible to insert it from below as the cage has no projecting face. If the inside of the chuck is rusted and won’t come out, you should first use a penetrating lubricant like WD-40.
The result should come out of the cage clamping mechanism consisting of a base, 3 removable cams and a nut cut in half with slits for a special key.
Then the nut halves are put back in place and the mechanism is returned to the cage. To assemble it all the way, one should hit the cage with a hammer until it sits. This is also best done from the weight.
The lubricated and assembled cartridge is screwed clockwise onto the shaft of the drill and the fixing screw is tightened.
Sometimes during disassembly the screw splines are worn out, then it is better to replace it or use a metal hacksaw to cut a new notch on it. If the lubrication of the chuck is carried out from the beginning after the purchase of the drill, it is very easy to disassemble and serves much longer, so it is better not to delay this procedure.
Remove the screw chuck
In drills with reversing function the drill chuck is additionally secured with a locking screw visible through the opened cams.
The gear teeth on the head of the screw can be Phillips, allen or even “star”. Prepare the correct screwdriver, wrench, or bit. Use a tool with a full slot that fits the exact size of the slot.
Measure the size of the keyhole on the drill shaft. Most likely 14mm for a medium tool or 17mm for a more powerful machine.
Prepare a wrench with thin jaws. You can take a suitable one from the bike repair kit or grind the edges of a conventional wrench on an emery wheel.
Hold the drill shaft with the wrench and use the screwdriver to try and unscrew the screw clockwise (left-hand thread).
If the threads do not “go”, put the drill chuck in a vise and hit the head of the screw several times with a hammer through a steel rod.
The threads will now become malleable and the screw will be unscrewed.
Next unscrew the chuck itself counterclockwise (right hand thread) using two wrenches. a carob wrench and a chuck wrench.
This can be difficult to do. Try increasing the lever by clamping an Allen wrench in the chuck.
As a last resort, use a vise with the drill in it, as in the photo below.
Slide the chuck from its place by hitting the collar secured via the square head.
By this method it is possible to unscrew rather strongly stuck chucks.
After cleaning, install the chuck in reverse order, remembering the different thread directions.
Before screwing in the set screw, put a little paint on the thread.
How to disassemble a drill chuck
How to remove the drill chuck? This is the question everyone asks themselves sooner or later.
There are 2 main methods of disassembly chuck. key method (as the most used in household and professional appliances).
The method is peoratorial:
- Separating the collets until they go into the chuck.
- Install the insert in the chuck.
- Insert the drill into the pad.
- Switch on the power tool for a few seconds. this will remove the “sleeve” (adjusting collar).
- Remove the collets. be sure to mark their relative spatial positions. The difficulty is that during assembly the collets must each take their place. If not, it is not possible to center the replacement tool.
The need for the torch is that it has been designed for a higher load than the drill.
Disassembly method with a hammer:
- Collet spacing.
- Place the chuck in the vice so that the body passes between the jaws and the socket does not.
- Warm up the collet with a local heat source. a construction dryer is ideal.
- A plate is placed on the chuck as a shock absorber.
- Break out the housing from the adjusting collet with a hammer through a plate.
Drill chucks can be quick-change chucks. Order of disassembly is as follows
- The socket is pinched and pulled apart on the perimeter with a screwdriver.
- When there is enough space between it and the housing, you can remove it with your fingers.
- Open the cams as far as they will go.
- Insert the pin or bolt into the chuck and knock the casing from the bottom of the socket with a calm tap of the hammer.
- Once these parts have separated from each other, disassembly as a process for lubrication is stopped. Further action will lead to the loss of structural integrity (assembly at this level is done in a production environment).
Removing the chuck from the screwdriver shaft
Dismantle the part with a 10 mm L-type hexagon socket wrench. The short part of the wrench is locked in the chuck. Then the machine is switched on, the free end of the wrench should strike the surface of the table or workbench. It is removed by turning the wrench and should then slip effortlessly off the thread.
Let’s describe another way to replace a chuck on a screwdriver. The first thing to do is unclench the cams. On the bottom there may be a screw, it is an additional fixation of the shaft. Twist it clockwise. Then clamp the hexagon and twist it forcibly in the opposite direction so that it comes off the shaft. If the part doesn’t give way, hit the tip of the wrench with a hammer.
If these methods do not work, you have to carry out full disassembly, take out the gearbox and the spindle retainer together with the spindle. The pulled out mechanism is fixed in a vice, the chuck is unscrewed from it using a pipe wrench. There are clips with a recess for an ordinary wrench, it facilitates the dismantling, but such instances are rare.
The part is knocked out of the housing with a hammer on the Morse taper.
To have a more complete picture of how to disassemble the screwdriver chuck, a video for familiarization is presented below.
Removing the chuck from the Makita screwdriver
Makita grass trimmers are equipped with a threaded mount and an auxiliary left-hand thread locking screw.
Take turns with the screwdriver:
- unscrew the screw to the right side;
- Press the button that stops the spindle;
- Wrap the unit in a thick cloth and put it in a vise;
- lock the hexagon in the cams;
- swing the chuck with a hammer on the tip of the wrench and remove it from the shaft.
If you know the principles of disassembly described above, then the question of how to remove the chuck from the screwdriver “Interskol”, “Bosch”, other popular brand, will fall away by itself.
rules of thumb screwdriver use
It is possible to ensure long functioning of the tool if you adhere to simple rules of operation:
- keep the screwdriver away from moisture;
- Always adjust the tool before use;
- Disconnect the battery while you are changing accessories;
- If you do not use the screwdriver for an extended period of time, periodically run it to discharge the battery;
- Have several spare batteries.
Chuck replacement in a screwdriver in the home workshop can be done by any man. If you use the above methods, you are guaranteed to perform the operation quickly and with a minimum of effort.