How to insert a drill bit into a Makita hammer drill

Material and kinds of drills and core bits

The main material for the production of drilling nozzles. steel of different kinds:

To work with the toughest surfaces. metals, hard stone. the drill tip is additionally equipped with diamond tipped tips. According to the type of construction, drills are divided into:

A lot about the drilling nozzle will also tell you about its color:

  • Black. The drill was pre-treated with superheated steam. Contrary to the well-known claim that black drills are stronger than all others, this is not true. Here color has no impact on strength.
  • Brown. Such a drill bit has been pre-tempered to remove internal stresses.
  • Golden, bright gold. The tip of the drill bit in these colors has a titanium nitride coating. It adds durability to the drill, but so does the cost.

Ways to get the drill out of the torch

As soon as the drill jams in a concrete wall, floor, or any other similar structure, you should immediately turn off the rotation mode, if enabled, and leave only the impact. You must then pull the tool toward you, while jerking it in the other direction from the surface in which it is stuck. These movements will cause the drill to break a part of the concrete layer holding it in place, after which it should simply and effortlessly come out. This method will also help in case of jamming the drill in the wall construction because of the coarse fraction, and in the case of hitting the product in the armature.

Another easy way to remove the drill from the surface is to use the reverse rotation function. This function is not available on all tools, in addition, its use leads to a slugging of the mechanism’s drum assembly. If you have a warranty, you can try to remove the core bit with this method.

By following this link. you will learn how to make your own concrete vibrator from a peorator. On how to choose the right peorator, read in this article You may also be interested in what kind of drill bits for drilling concrete.

There is also a rather extravagant way to extract the drill. You will need a gas wrench for this. It must be twisted on the nozzle, and then unscrew it in the opposite direction. This method works because the gas wrench has a rather long lever, with which you can apply a lot of force. But if this method still does not work, you can try tapping on the handle of the wrench with a hammer. Swing the milling machine from side to side at the same time. A combination of these movements will cause the drill to come out fairly quickly.

In some cases it is necessary to make some additional holes with another tool before removing the drill from the pen. As a result, around the drill should form a large hole, the diameter of which should be about 10 centimeters. The core bit will come out together with a fragment of the wall and the hole can be filled in at a later time. This method is suitable when you can neither close in the wall, nor cut the drill.

If none of the above methods is suitable, the bit should be simply filed down with an angle grinder, hammered with a sledgehammer or smeared with something.

Now let’s talk about what to do if the drill is stuck in the pen. Most often it happens because the shank material cannot withstand the load and deforms. To extract the tool, it is necessary to clamp it tightly in a vise. After that it is necessary to turn on reverse on the tool, preferably put it on maximum power. The start should be pressed with some pauses, because prolonged operation in this mode will result in damage to the power unit of the device.

After the workpiece has loosened, the drill bit should be taken out of the vise. They will leave a drill bit that is no longer usable. If you do not have a vise nearby, you can limit yourself to a thick wooden board. The torch must be set to drill, but must also be in reverse. It is necessary to drill until the tool “bites”.

How to remove a stuck or broken drill bit from the torch

There are many ways to get the drill out of the torch, including a broken one that cannot be removed in the usual way.

Knock the drill out of the chuck

The simplest way to solve the problem, which does not require disassembly of the cone and special tools. Use a screwdriver or similar tool to press the broken off shank all the way into the chuck. If you can not do it by hand, it is necessary to use a core and a hammer.

  • The shank is inserted into the chuck to make contact with the broken nozzle. With light strokes of a hammer, hammer it deep into the cone.
  • Chuck stopper is squeezed out.
  • The drill starts at maximum speed for a fraction of a second.
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When the striker strikes the point, the point is ejected. Here it is important that the broken shank does not harm people and objects, including after ricochet.

The shank is hammered in through the overlay.

Sometimes the procedure has to be repeated several times.

Using a vice

The jammed bit is pulled out in a vice. To do this, use soft pads like rubber or wood to clamp the drill bit between the jaws of the vice. After the rear coupling is withdrawn “toward you”, the rotary gear is pulled back with effort and is wobbled slightly in different directions.

Alternatively, in a vise or otherwise clamp the jig itself, and remove the jammed bit with pliers. Grasping and pulling with a rocking motion to and fro.

How to remove a broken shank with a welding machine

Welders know that an electric current that is insufficient to weld metals and maintain a stable arc only melts the tip of the electrode. As a result of prolonged contact, it sticks to the surface to be welded. the so-called electrode sticking phenomenon occurs.

Be careful when deciding to remove the drill from the perforator using the method described above. Careless handling of the welder can lead to microbores on the moving parts of the tool. Second peculiarity. in case of breakdown of the arc there is a great probability to stick the bearing or rotor shaft to it.

  • a vinyl or other tube with an outside diameter of up to 10 mm and an inside diameter greater than the thickness of the electrode is inserted in the cartridge to protect against contact.
  • Set the current below the welding current.
  • Mass is “thrown” onto the body of the torch.
  • The electrode is inserted into the tube and tapped against the broken shank.
  • After the spark. the ignition of the arc. the electrode is held in contact with the broken drill bit for about a second.
  • Disconnect the mains. switch off welding, remove the electrode from the electrode holder or remove the earth clamp.
  • Chuck is deflected in the direction of the torch.
  • The electrode with the stuck part of the drill bit is removed.

If it does not succeed the first time, you must try again, but every couple of minutes. They are needed to cool down the cartridge.

Tip! It is desirable to take an electrode with diameter of 2 mm. It is important not to keep it too sticky, because this may overload electric circuit, overheating of broken part of the drill bit and chuck elements contacting with it.

Drill bit extraction from the chuck with a micro hook

Not everyone has a welding inverter or semiautomatic machine. You can do without it. From a thin steel wire is bent a miniature hook with a hammer, pliers, file.

  • The finished hook is inserted into the open or long groove of the nozzle.
  • The chuck is pulled back for extraction.
  • The broken drill is pinched with a hook and pulled out.

If that doesn’t work, it’s worth trying a couple of hooks. one for each slot in the SDS-plus chuck.

If cheap consumables are used, drill shanks are often split by the beater. The flat surface at the end of the shank becomes like a “rose. It becomes impossible to remove the drill from the chuck without disassembling it.

Further process is described on the example of DWT BH-09. There may be differences in detail when disassembling other models.

  • Chuck duster is pulled out of the seat with a flathead screwdriver.
  • Use screwdriver to remove the circlip that holds the cartridge on the shaft.
  • Remove the spring-loaded sleeve.
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  • Lower the socket down to remove all of the balls.
  • Tool’s operating mode switch usually located on the upper part of the tool body is unscrewed.
  • The body is unscrewed from the chuck side.
  • The housing is disassembled and the borehole group is knocked out of it using a copper hammer or a metal hammer over a soft gasket such as a wooden one.
  • Remove the circlip securing the bearing.
  • The bearing itself is removed, preferably using a puller. If it is not handy, you can use a vice.
  • Remove the rear part of the barrel from which the pellets will fall.
  • Use a screwdriver through the holes in the crank hub to reach the captive bolt.
  • The broken part of the drill bit will fall out of the barrel after extracting the firing pin. If it does not, it must be pressed out from the opposite side using a core or screwdriver.
  • Reassemble the drive unit in the reverse order.

Second situation. the shank of an inexpensive drill bit is flared. It cannot be extracted by the method described above. After taking the bushing out of the body, remove the striker bolt.

  • Remove the circlip through the side hole.
  • Remove the captive bolt with its parts through the same hole by prying with a flat screwdriver or tapping on a soft surface such as the palm of the hand.
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If the nozzle is flared at the end. a cheap consumable was used, it will have to be drilled out with a quality drill bit with diamond or cobalt coating.

  • Clamp the fluted drill bit to the drill or screwdriver and insert it into the fluted tube parallel to the tube wall.
  • After drilling out the central part, the shank can be easily removed from the rotor.
  • Reassemble the device in reverse order.

The flattened shank is drilled out along the center line. Inexperienced craftsmen should take a cobalt drill bit with a slightly smaller diameter than the thickness of the jammed tool.

How to remove the drill bit from the quick-action or double-clamp chuck

In case of jamming of the usual drill bit in the cam chuck installed in the peorator:

  • Clamp the drill in a vice.
  • The holder is used to encircle the near coupling.
  • Tap the ring on the handle of the holder with a hammer in the direction of the sleeve unscrewing and the chuck is released.

How to change a drill bit in a Makita drill

How to change a drill bit in a Makita drill? The question is not complicated, but requires proper attention, because if the drill is not fixed correctly, then there can be problems: a broken or uneven hole, the possibility of falling out of the tool causing injury, as well as other troubles. First, let’s look at how to insert the drill bit into the drill.

How to use a Makita SDS Rotary Hammer Drill

In order to work properly, the drill bit must be clamped into the power drill chuck with the shank. Most drills have a cam-type chuck. These parts have a cylindrical body. A ring or sleeve rotates on its surface, and cams are placed inside the cylinder. Clockwise rotation of the ring makes them close together, thus compressing the drill bit. Counterclockwise rotation distances the cams from each other, thereby relaxing the drill press. This allows it to be replaced or removed. The jaws must be relaxed with some reserve to make it easy to insert the drill. The principle of operation of the cams makes it possible to mount drills of any diameter. Ordinary domestic drills are produced with a standard range of drill diameters. 0.8-10 millimeters, some models may have an interval of 1.5-13 millimeters.

There are two methods of clamping: a quick-action clamping and a key-action clamping. With the first version, the rotation of the sleeve is done manually. Drills with this type of clamping often use locking elements that limit the clamping force. In the second variant, the adjusting sleeve is driven by a wrench. On the side of the chuck there is a hole where the wrench with teeth is inserted. Sometimes there are several such holes (up to three), each of which must be loosened by turning the wrench counterclockwise once or twice. Then start turning counterclockwise the chuck, thereby increasing the diameter of the nozzle hole. Now the drill bit is inserted and the chuck is clamped first and then the sockets.

To change the drill bit, it must first be pulled out. Consider how to get the drill out of the drill. The process is quite simple, but you must be careful because you can damage the drill itself or the chuck.

  • First the machine must be switched off.
  • The drill needs to be carefully removed from the chuck using special wrenches. Pay attention to which chuck is installed. If it is a key, the key itself must be installed in the hole designed for it. Then turn the wrench counterclockwise until the clamps separate. The drill can then be easily pulled out and a new one inserted in its place.
  • If you use a quick-action chuck, you need to rotate the sleeve with a wrench until the drill comes out (it is required to apply force, the drill should be clamped in the hand). Tap the chuck with the palm of your hand. If the drill has not been clamped hard, it will come off easily after this motion.

If the drill is jammed, then use force to remove the drill. Be careful when doing this, otherwise the tool could be damaged. The work is done as follows:

  • First you have to turn off the equipment.
  • Then you need to gently tap with a hammer on the chuck to avoid damaging it. Put a board between the hammer and the chuck.
  • Knock on chuck until drill shank comes out.

If the electric drill works only with metal chucks, then to pull out the jammed drill, you will need two gas wrenches. They are needed to clamp the sleeve, then the chuck must be rotated counterclockwise. This method can also be used for a plastic chuck, but there is a risk of damaging it. If neither method helps, it is worth removing the chuck from the equipment.

The drill blade may remain in the material that was being worked on. You can tell when the drill is stuck by the characteristic sound. In such a situation, you must immediately turn off the tool and then unclamp the chuck.

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The drill bit may not come out. In this case use a new chuck and then carefully chisel away the small area next to the jammed part with the drill. “Injured” equipment is extracted quite easily, for this purpose it needs to be slightly rocked. If none of the measures help, then contact the service center. One should not apply too much force, because the equipment can break.

To replace the drill bit in a Makita drill is not so difficult, even if it jammed during operation, you only need to choose the right models and chucks. It’s enough to do the job once, and then you can do it without mistakes.

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How to change the drill bit in the SDS-plus chuck

Those who have never used an SDS-plus chuck drill, we can say that not much has been lost. Although, it depends on how you look at it. Ease of changing tools, fastening reliability, and, in general, the development of the world-renowned manufacturer Bosch. Here’s what you might miss. But everyone decides for himself.

The need to describe how the tool in the chuck can be replaced with another one was prompted to me by the fact that there is a significant portion of people who search the internet for an answer to the question voiced in the above-mentioned billet of the topic.

The test subject is a rented (but still in good condition) Bosch GBH 4 DFE. An example of a tool would be a 6 mm diameter drill. Replace it with a spade.

Little tricks

Sometimes craftsmen may have a question, how to insert the drill into an electric screwdriver, if the drill has a diameter less than the minimum allowable. If you need to get quite tiny holes in radio components, plastic or metal, sometimes you have to use quite tiny drill bits. And without any extra tricks you can hardly clamp a drill bit of this size in the chuck.

The easiest way is to wind a thin copper wire (0.2 to 1 millimeter) on the tail end of the drill. If you don’t have fine wire, you can strip the insulation off a strand of copper wire and pull one strand out of it. Wind the wire very tightly with no gap. Cut the remaining length of wire.

One option in such a situation is to wrap a piece of paper around the thin drill bit.

The ideal way to increase the diameter of the drill bit shank and to ensure a good grip in the chuck jaws.

Some useful tips

Never forget safety precautions when working with power tools. Necessary protective elements are special glasses, earplugs or headphones, as well as gloves. Wear protective clothing that does not allow lanyards, belts, or other hanging accessories to get caught in the drill. Don’t let the appliance go to waste for long periods of time. Switch it off after every step of the working procedure. Let the tool rest, especially if you feel it is overheating. It is normally “time table” to work for 30 minutes and rest for 10 minutes.

Insert the drill all the way into the chuck. Strive to make the hole deeper at the expense of incomplete immersion drill, it is strongly not recommended.

If the drill stuck in the drill, you need to clamp it in a vise, and through a wooden bar, tap with a hammer on the cams that do not release the drill. A drill bit stuck in the chuck can be removed by a drop of oil in the key chuck or by removing the chuck with the drill bit and placing it in gasoline.

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How to change the tool into a drill bit

The next mode on the clockwise rotation of the mode switch is drilling. This is probably the most important and most stressful operating mode of the chuck.

Press the red button and put the switch in the position as shown in the picture. Nothing complicated.

In this mode, you can use a drill (drill bit) with an SDS-plus shank to make a hole in a concrete wall.

Important warning: do not try to put drill bits in the chuck that are not designed for the specific chuck type. For example, a drill with a cylindrical shank in an SDS-plus chuck. The tip of the drill bit might be flattened and you might not be able to take it out of the chuck.

Working with a peorator and its special features

The term “peorator” literally means a hammer for drilling, as it was originally used by miners to extract stone. It was designed as a percussion-type model.

The rod connected to the pusher was lifted by means of the flywheel and transfer mechanisms. The spring pushes it down and the impact is produced by the forces of inertia and spring compression. Predominantly used for hard rock.

The pneumatic peorator was invented in 1857. by an engineer from France, Sommelier. In 1932 the first electrically driven model was introduced.